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FRANZ JOSEF LAND 10 5 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 BO 90 191> km © NORSK POLARINSTITUTT 1995 Hatle 1s\ • Capo 50• --r---~o· <> /Junonr Is. POLARHÅNDBOK No. 8 FRANZ JOSEF LAND EDITOR: SUSAN BA RR NORSK UNIVERSITY OF POLARINSTITUTT SALZBURG, AUSTRIA OSLO 1995 Photographs have kindly been contributed by the following: Trygve Aas Susan Barr Ch. Hobenreich Wojciech Moskai !rena Safronova Heinz Slupetzky Heinz Zwettler Historical photographs from the are hives of the Norwegian Polar Institute and Austrian archives and museums. Aids to pronounciation Cand c = correspond to English 'ch' Sands= correspond to English 'sh' ©Norsk Polarinstitutt, Middelthuns gate 29, 0301 Oslo Technical editor: Annemor Brekke Graphic design: Vidar Grimshei Cover photo: Heinz Slupetzky Graphic production: Grimshei Grafiske, Lørenskog ISBN 82-7666-095-9 Printed June 1995 2 CONTENTS Foreword "............. " ......... " .......... " ...... " .................... "....... "................... 5 Geographical position and general characteristics of the Franz Josef Land archipelago ".... "." .... "... " ".. " ... " .............. "..... ".".... 8 Climate ..." ....... " .... "............................. "...... "............ " ....... "...... "........... 11 Glaciers ..........."." ........................ "..... " ... "... "." ........ "............... "...... "... 15 Geology ............." .......................................... ".......... "............................ 22 Freshwater systems ..."....................................................... .... ... ............. 27 Soil ................................ ".. " ...................... "..... "......................... "........... 30 Vegetation ..................... "......................................................................... 32 Marine environment and wildlife .......................................................... " 38 The history of western activity in Franz Josef Land ."......................... ... 59 A history of the Austrian discovery of Franz Josef Land " ... "" ............... 107 Russian research in Franz Josef Land " .. " "" "... " ......... "" ..................... ". 129 Human impact and environmental management ..................................... 148 Summary in: Norwegian "...................... ".............................................. 157 German ............................................................................. 160 Polish ...................." .......... " .. ".......................................... 164 Russian ................" ... "... ".. ".. "" .. ".... ".. ". ".. "" "............... 167 French ".. "."............ ""."""""."."" .. "".""""... """"... ".... 170 Notes ".".. ".. """"" .. "" .. "."........... "." .. ".. ".. ".. """""""."." ... ".. """"..... 173 Authors: Susan Barr, ethnologist and polar historian, Norwegian Polar Institute, Oslo. And rei Glazovskij, glaciologist, Institute of Geography, Russian Academy of Sciences, Moscow. Rasmus Hansson, environmental manager, Norwegian Polar Institute, Oslo. Vidar Risdal, meteorologist, Norwegian Polar Institute, Oslo. Aleksandr Krenke, glaciologist, Institute of Geography, Russian Academy of Sciences, Moscow. Bernard Lefauconnier, glaciologist, Norwegian Polar Institute, Oslo. Stefan Norris, environmental manager, Norwegian Polar Institute, Svalbard. Irena Safronova, botanist, Institute of Botany, Russian Academy of Sciences, St. Petersburg. Heinz Slupetzky, geographer and glaciologist, Institute of Geography, University of Salzburg. Lech Stempniewicz, ornithologist, Dept. ofVertebrate Ecology & Zoology, University of Gdansk. Jan·Marcin Wi:slawski, marine biologist, Institute of Oceanography, Polish Academy of Science. 3 FOREWORD This publication is the result of an idea bom at the annua! meeting near Gdansk, Poland of scientists working in the European and Soviet (later Russian) Arctic. The opening of the former USSR around 1990 led to a steep rise in both commercial and scientific activity in the Franz Josef Land area, which has made the compilation of such a handbook a natura! step. The last compar able book of the area was published by the Norwegian Polar Institute in 1930, at the time Franz Josef Land became closed to outsiders. In the period between, scientific information from the archipelago was mainly unavailable. The international cooperation on this handbook tries to fill the gap from 1930, and to present both Soviet/Russian and western his tory and present activities. The book is not intended to be a scientific compendium. Instead it pre sents an overview of the history and nature of Franz Josef Land based on today's knowledge and available literature. It is aimed both at the general public who wish to know more about this northemmost archipelago, and to function as a basis for scientists intending to do research in the area. The editing committee is painfully aware of the dilemma involved in presenting information about a vulnerable area. Such a publication may contribute to a further increase in number of visitors which can have a detrimental effect on the environment. On the other hand the knowledge presented here will hopefully lead to a greater understanding of the need to protect both the nature and the historical remains of Franz Josef Land. The diversity of authors who have made this book reflects the intema tionality of the subject both in the past and present. This aspect is also evi denced by the support given to achieve the publication. The editing com mittee would like to thank the Norwegian Polar Institute for publishing the book and the following institutions for additional financial support towards publication: The Austrian Ministry of Foreign Affairs The Polish Academy of Science Stiftungs- und Forderungsgesellschaft der Universitat Salzburg (The Foundation of the University of Salzburg). The following colleagues at the Norwegian Polar Institute are also thanked for their help and advice with the various manuscripts: Vidar Bakken, Olivier Bouissou, Winfried Dallmann, Ian Gjertz, Peter Hagevold, Øyvind A. Høydal, Linn Bryhn Jacobsen, Yoshihide Ohta, Otto Salvigsen. Susan Barr, Heinz Slupetzky and Jan-Marcin W�slawsh 5 GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION AND GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE FRANZ JOSEF LAND ARCHIPELAGO A.F. GLAZOVSKIJ Franz Josef Land is located in the extreme north of the Eastern Hemisphere. It lies only 900 km from the North Pole and ca. 750 km from the nearest point on the Eurasian mainland, the Y ama! Peninsula. The nearest large arctic islands - northeastern Svalbard and the northem tip of Novaja Zemlja - are situated 260 km to the west and 360 km to the southeast, respectively. Franz Josef Land is an archipelago consisting of 191 islands located between 79°46' and 81°52'N and 44°52' and 65°25' E., and stretching 375 km from west to east and 234 km from south to north. Cape Fligely on Ru dolf Island is the most northem point, Lamont Island the southemmost, with Cape Olney on Graham Bell Island furthest east and Cape Mary Harmsworth on Alexandra Land the westernmost point. However, the islands themselves occupy less than 20% of the area of the archipelago. Whereas the total area of the islands themselves is 16,135 km2, the length of the coastline is 4425 km, i.e. this represents a little over 3.6 km2 of the area of the islands per l km of the Franz Josef Land coastline. This indicates the high dissection rate of the archipelago (in comparison, Sever naya Zemlya, the archipelago to the east of Franz Josef Land, totals 36,770 km2 and the length of its coastline is 3498 km, which trans lates to 10.5 km2 per 1 km of the coastline). This high dissection distinguishes Franz Josef Land from other arctic archipelagos of Eurasia, which mainly consist of fewer and!arger islands (Govorucha 1970). Small islands dominate, but the 135 small islands amount to only 0.4% of the archipelago's total area. George Land is the !argest island measuring 2741 km2, followed by: Wilczek Land 2054 km2, Graham Bell Island 1708 km2 and Alexandra Land 1051 km2• Five islands measure 500 to 1000 km2 - Hall, Salisbury, McClintock, Jackson and Hooker. Widespread glaciers predominate in the archipelago, covering 13,735 km2 or 85 % of the total land area. The area of ice-free land amounts to only 2400 km2 or 15 % of the total land area. Large land areas without ice cover occur only on the large islands, prin cipally George Land (Armitage Peninsula 499.8 km2), Graham Beil Island (Kholmistyi Peninsula 493.7 km2), Alexandra Land (Central'naya Susha 270 km2), Wilczek Land (Ganza Point 162.7 km2), Hayes Island (84.2 km2). Most of the small islands are not glacier covered, but the total area is rather limited (Grosval'd et al. 1973). 8 Where the surface of the archipelago is free of glaciers, it is evident that the bedrock is composed of horizontal or gently dipping layers, relatively friable sedimentary rocks underlying more massive basalts and dolerites. As the whole archipelago originates from a gentle, dome-shaped tectonic rise, young rocks (e.g. basalts) crop out in a wide are along its northern, western and southern periphery forming vast basaltic plateaus, which usu ally dip gently from the centre to the periphery. Inside the "basaltic are", sheets of dolerite are exposed, armouring most of the northem islands. As a consequence of the geological structure, the islands of the "basaltic are" and those comprised of dolerite are mainly the remnants of a vast plateau rising to an elevation of 50-100 to 500--600 m above sea leve!. Sirnilar vol cano-structural plateaus occur elsewhere in the