San Miguel De Allende: Mexicans, Foreigners, and the Making of a World Heritage Site / Lisa Pinley Covert
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SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE THE MEXICAN EXPERIENCE William H. Beezley, series editor SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE Mexicans, Foreigners, and the Making of a World Heritage Site LISA PINLEY COVERT University of Nebraska Press / Lincoln and London © 2017 by the Board of Regents of the University of Nebraska All rights reserved Manufactured in the United States of America Portions of chapters 1, 2, and 3 previously appeared as “Colonial Outpost to Artists’ Mecca: Conflict and Collaboration in the Development of San Miguel de Allende’s Tourist Industry” in Holiday in Mexico: Critical Reflections on Tourism and Tourist Encounters, ed. Dina Berger and Andrew G. Wood (Duke University Press, 2010), 183– 220. Portions of chapter 2 also previously appeared as “The GI Bill Abroad: A Postwar Experiment in Foreign Relations” in Diplomatic History 40 (April 2016): 244– 68. Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data Names: Covert, Lisa Pinley, author. Title: San Miguel de Allende: Mexicans, Foreigners, and the Making of a World Heritage Site / Lisa Pinley Covert. Description: Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 2017. | Series: The Mexican experience | Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifiers:LCCN 2016042788 ISBN 9781496200389 (hardback: alk. paper) ISBN 9781496200600 (paper: alk. paper) ISBN 9781496201362 (epub) ISBN 9781496201379 (mobi) ISBN 9781496201386 (pdf) Subjects: LCSH: San Miguel de Allende (Mexico)— History. | BISAC: HISTORY / Latin America / Mexico. | BUSINESS & ECONOMICS / Economic History. | POLITICAL SCIENCE / Globalization. Classification:LCC F1391.S2 C68 2017 | DDC 972/.41— dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016042788 Set in Whitman by John Klopping. Designed by N. Putens. For my mother and father, Lorraine and Alan CONTENTS List of Illustrations ix Acknowledgments xi Introduction xv 1. Making a Typical Mexican Town 1 2. Good Neighbors, Good Catholics, and Competing Visions 39 3. Bringing the Mexican Miracle to San Miguel 77 4. Containing Threats to Patriarchal Order and the Nation 113 5. San Miguel’s Two Service Economies 149 Epilogue: From Typical Town to World Heritage Site 189 Notes 197 Bibliography 251 Index 275 ILLUSTRATIONS MAPS 1. Guanajuato xvi 2. Bajío region 2 3. San Miguel de Allende street map 12 4. Infrastructure projects, circa 1978 158 PHOTOGRAPHS 1. Plaque outside the municipal tourism office xviii 2. The Parroquia and the Plaza Principal prior to renovations 29 3. San Miguel’s parish church, the Parroquia, 2007 30 4. Detail of Vida y obra del Gral. Ignacio Allende 40 5. Women approaching San Miguel, 1953 48 6. Stirling Dickinson, 1957 49 7. San Miguel’s Independence Day parade, 1949 73 8. Sara Montiel and Mario Lanza during the filming of Serenade 91 9. A newly painted house next to a whitewashed house 191 10. Fábrica La Aurora sign 194 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This project has been a piece of me for almost my entire adult life, and I could never adequately thank all of the people and institutions that offered intellectual, financial, and emotional support along the way. I humbly wish to acknowledge some of their efforts here. The seed that became this book was first planted during the McNair Scholars Summer Research Program at California State University, Long Beach. This program truly changed my life, and it breaks my heart to know that in this era of austerity future generations will not have the same opportunities that I did. Numerous colleagues, faculty members, and staff atCSULB helped me transform this project from an idea into my honors undergraduate thesis, and I especially want to thank Pat Cleary and Jim Green for their time and guidance. Around seminar tables and over coffee, colleagues and faculty members at Yale shared insights and criticisms that shaped my ideas and analysis in so many ways that I surely no longer remember or recognize them all. I am deeply indebted to Gil Joseph, Patricia Pessar, and Seth Fein for the years of support they generously provided. I regret that Patricia will not be able to see the imprints she left on this project and on my life. I am a better scholar and writer thanks to their ques- tions, comments, and words of wisdom, and I strive to follow their example as a mentor and colleague. Adam Arenson, Gerry Cadava, xi ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Sarah Cameron, Amanda Ciafone, Catherine Dunlop, Lillian Guerra, Julia Irwin, Yedida Kanfer, Eden Knudsen, Carmen Kordick, Diana Lemberg, Jana Lipman, Rebecca McKenna, April Merleaux, Laura Robson, Theresa Runstedtler, Stuart Schwartz, Tatiana Seijas, Lisa Ubelaker Andrade, Kate Unterman, Jenifer Van Vleck, Louise Walker, and Kirsten Weld all dedicated precious time out of their own busy schedules to reading and commenting on (some very rough) chapter drafts, in addition to providing their friendship and encouragement. Jonathan Hudson and Angela Pulley Hudson, Kate Reed Hauenstein and Michael Hauenstein, and Ashley Riley Sousa and John Sousa truly made New Haven feel like home. Many friends and colleagues assisted in the heavy lifting that was required to transform my dissertation into a book. My colleagues at Southern Connecticut State University went out of their way to provide support during a crucial transitional moment in my career. My efforts to revise the project began in earnest once I arrived at the College of Charleston. I owe a debt of gratitude to Rich Bodek, Phyllis Jestice, Rick Lopez, Jason Ruiz, and an anonymous reader for carefully reading and providing feedback on the entire manuscript. I would also like to acknowledge Jürgen Buchenau, Ben Cowan, Oliver Dinius, Ben Fallaw, Ben Johnson (and the other participants in the Newberry Library Seminar in Borderlands and Latino Studies), Jennifer Josten, Andrew Paxman, Scott Poole, and Jacob Steere- Williams, who all gen- erously offered insights on conference papers and chapter drafts. Fredy González read chapter drafts and provided invaluable assistance with key interviews that altered the contours of this project. Raúl Carrillo- Arciniega patiently helped me understand the nuances of Mexican Spanish whenever I bothered him with translation questions. Mitchell Locklear and Bradford Pelletier organized research data into massive spreadsheets, a task that I would never have undertaken without their assistance. Honor Sachs and Erica Buchberger were writing partners at critical stages when I especially needed motivation and camaraderie, as were Sarah Owens, Irina Gigova, and other colleagues at the many College of Charleston Faculty Writing Retreats that benefited this xii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS project immensely. Julie Weise, Tammy Ingram, and David Huyssen offered intellectual feedback and provided support in many ways as I navigated the ups and downs of this project (and of life), and I am grateful for their friendship. Bridget Barry believed in this project, and I thank her, along with Emily Wendell, the rest of the editors and staff at the University of Nebraska Press, and Maureen Bemko, for helping me get it across the finish line. Any shortcomings of this book undoubtedly exist because I did not follow the collective wisdom of the people named above. Countless archivists, librarians, and others who share a passion for history assisted me over the years. I especially would like to thank César Rodríguez, Graciela Cruz López, César Arias de la Canal, Don Patterson, Sue Beere, the interlibrary loan staff at the College of Charleston, and all of the individuals in San Miguel who invited me into their homes and shared their own histories. My deepest gratitude extends to Marina López Flores and her entire family—Ernesto, Luis, Claudia, Juan, and Diego— for the hospitality, advice, connections, and great food during my research trips in San Miguel. Marimar Aguila Sandoval, Sloane Starke de Caloca, Francisco Caloca, Betse Streng, and Vicki Noemí Chanquín Miranda also opened their doors to me and helped me feel at home as I was completing my research abroad. I thank the staff of San Miguel’s Biblioteca Pública for providing a beautiful workspace and the staff of El Sindicato for creating a space to share my work with sanmiguelenses. Friends, family members, and colleagues continuously inspired me by sending my way a steady stream of newspaper clippings, advertisements, and magazine articles about San Miguel. In addition I would like to acknowledge the generous financial support from the following institutions, without which this project would not have been possible: the Ronald E. McNair Scholars Pro- gram, the California Pre- Doctoral Program, the Yale Graduate School of Arts and Sciences, the Yale Council of Latin American and Iberian Studies, the Yale Center for International and Area Studies (now the MacMillan Center), the Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library, xiii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS the Society of Historians of American Foreign Relations, the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation, and the Fulbright Foundation. At the College of Charleston I received essential financial support from the History Department, the School of Humanities and Social Sciences, and the Faculty Research and Development fund. I would like to thank the people who have been there for me throughout my life and who have helped me remember what is truly important. My sisters Angela Pinley and Ashley Pinley Lautman and my dear friend Heather Lien have all given me strength and inspi- ration even though our paths never seem to cross often enough. My grandmother Majorie Fletcher and my late grandparents, Leroy Pin- ley and Sam and Cruz Rodriguez, influenced me in profound ways. I especially appreciate the interest my grandfather Sam took in my project, and I will always treasure the memories of our time together in San Miguel. Chris, I thank you for embarking on this crazy journey called life with me, for patiently helping me see this project through, and for enabling me to look forward to an ever- brighter future on the horizon. Jordan and Adam, I am grateful for everything you bring to my life, from the daily reminders of all that is precious and wonder- ful to the humbling reminders of my many flaws.