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chalke fans are gathering in a Gelsenkirchen this connection with the club extends to the pitch too. Kruschinski pub before their game against Dutch club FC says many identified with Mesut Ozil, now one of the world’s Twente in the Europa League. There’s enough most exciting players, when he first broke through at Schalke boisterous singing, a full three hours before because they felt a sense of ownership surrounding the (compul- kick-off, to suggest large quantities of beer have sory) academy breeding young talent. OF THE BEST already been consumed. But it’s a celebratory Ozil now plays at Real Madrid, but the production line contin- atmosphere, not an aggressive one. The sup- ues. And it’s no surprise, therefore, that Germany are now one FP

BEST A porters feel so much a part of their team – in of the favourites for the European Championships in June. The es/

When Arsenal, Manchester United and Manchester City were knocked out of the g Germany most of the teams have fan groups players seem to appreciate how important the fans have been to Champions League prematurely this year, it reignited the debate about which league in that control 50% of the club – that Schalke fans this renaissance too: after every game they stay on the field and es/Getty Ima Europe can really be considered the best. Spain, Germany, Italy, France and Holland are all g call their new stadium their “living room”. The influence of the properly applaud the supporters, rather than giving them a cur- Sfans in this system – called the Mutterverein – means there are sory clap and disappearing quickly to the dressing room. contenders. But can they match the money and prestige of the English Premier League? tickets available for even the biggest games at just €10. “You see,” laughs Kruschinski, “going to football is just better “It gives the fans the feeling that they are special,” says Olivier in Germany.”

By Ben East Photos by Gallo Ima Kruschinski, who runs one of Schalke’s many fan groups. And He might have a point. The English Premier League (EPL)

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might be the one most regularly enjoyed on TV screens across the world, but its most successful team, Manchester United, were embarrassed by Barcelona in the Champions League final last year. There was no shame in that, but this season United were completely outplayed in the Europa League, this time by Athletic Bilbao, a side only halfway up Spain’s La Liga. Afterwards, even Sir Alex Ferguson admitted Bilbao’s football was a “wonderful “Because there is a thing to see”. The story we’re often sold is that although La Liga might be tradition in England. the home of more technically proficient footballers – including, of course, Lionel Messi – the EPL is more exciting. The grounds are It just feels like the fuller, the games are more entertaining, and it’s not just a competi- tion between two mega teams and 18 also-rans. But that’s not strictly true. Of the top four leagues in UEFA’s strongest league, with rankings – in order, the EPL, La Liga, the Bundesliga and Serie A – the average attendance at a German league game is fast, exciting matches.” 44 873, a staggering 10 000 more per game than in England and 16 000 more than Spain. And perhaps that’s no surprise when – Markhus Reise

big scalp Athletic Bilbao’s players celebrate after knocking Manchester United out of the Europa League.

the average number of goals in a match – a pretty good indicator league, with fast, exciting matches. Some very good players, of as to a league’s entertainment – is also higher in Germany than in course. I think if Schalke were in the Premier League, we would England, Spain and Italy. not do very well.” In fact, the Bundesliga is also closer. The difference between Watching Schalke destroy Steve McClaren’s FC Twente in the Germany’s top four clubs with 10 games to go this season was just second half of their crucial Europa League game, plenty would 11 points. In Spain it was 30. The Bundesliga is also more unpre- beg to differ. Klaas Jan Huntelaar, who scored twice, would grace dictable: five different teams have won the title in Germany in the any Premier League side, and his partner in attack is Raul, a last 10 years – a greater spread than anywhere else in Europe. former Real Madrid legend. But Markhus is right that, in general, All of which provokes the obvious question: why didn’t the best players do tend to gravitate towards the bigger clubs in everyone tune in to watch the big Ruhr derby in November Europe’s more prestigious leagues. between Borussia Dortmund and Schalke 04 at the top of the FP A Bundesliga, where a staggering 80 000 people flocked to the still think Twente would do alright in the Premier es/ g Westfalenstadion to see Dortmund win 2-0? Why, instead, were League,” smiles their coach Steve McClaren. “Maybe not the eyes of the football world that weekend fixed on Liverpool “I at the top level, but halfway up perhaps.” And he should es/Getty Ima

g playing Manchester City in a humdrum 1-1 draw? understand the relative merits of the European leagues better The first answer, strangely, comes from another Schalke fan. than most. McLaren first came to prominence as Alex Ferguson’s “Because there is a tradition in England,” says Markhus Reise assistant during Manchester United’s treble year in 1999, but it – so enamoured with English football he set up a Manchester was his tenure as manager of Middlesbrough FC in the Premier

Photos by Gallo Ima City supporters group in Germany. “It just feels like the strongest League which confirmed him as a top coach in his own right,

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| EUR atcl prah L Lg i tcncly dp ad ihy skil highly technically and adept is Liga tactical approach. La Italianthe leaguealwayshas beencharacterised itscautious,by areincredibly fit.” England, but my goodness, they could run all day. All the teams completely different way. a in They but athletic,weren’t very were playersas physically the that strong is as therein coaching it’s interesting, because what I immediatelyGermany, noticed thefootballwhen much ismoreI organised started players.Inanddisciplined foreign best the – introduction of the with too, good very technically becoming games the seeing you’re now And players. the of strength and power physique, the games, the mentionedonce. McClaren understands why. intriguingly, aren’t and, French teams Spain about and Italian ambivalent pretty They’re support. they team English an has though,thatisnearly everyone speakGelsenkircheninIto also experience,Germany ispretty much unrivalled. What’s striking, aren’tscratch).toup Butit’s pretty clearthat forpure supporter (althoughrestrictionsstadiumsaretheretheleaguessome if in place their takes else someone relegated and get theyenough, aren’t good teams if – leagues the of any‘franchise’ systemin European no football’s to is there credit that is It more fans. their means to it perhaps so – too times good the enjoyed and wherethere’s nothing to play for. hours before kick-off just to get a seat – and that’s oftenpoint; caseatinhavestadiumfansthe a agetareto game to four three to Germany.atmospherepossiblyamenableinlessisthan Napoli get going in Italy, it can feel a little like that there, too, although the centon the whole and it feels like a special occasion every time.” Germanyisunique inmy experience. The stadiums are magnifi youwould get that anywhere else inEurope. Going gametoa in partyatmosphere.realcitiesa there don’twasknow Iwhether betweenthetwo relationship sets ofsupporters The Schalke.was outstanding and andin both ourselves between games two wholegame. crowdstaythewaytheandforbehindwithteamthem getthe atmosphere, can’t simply believe the they over friends the had English the to Premier usedLeague,” says. he“It’sHolland. you’re insame the When I’ve if notice immediately you thing theSchalke fans were willing the ball into the net. incredibleatmosphere theatVeltins Arena. Itgenuinely feltlike the isfirstagree thingontheweSchalkeand handsof the –at Nottingham with dalliance Forest, brief he’s a afternow back But sacked.at Twente. was he later, months EnglishmancoachBundesliga.thetoin Notlong.forJust seven successalertedWolfsburg,VFL HisMcClaren 2010.andfirstbecame the first-ever championship in their to Twente FC led Eredivisie and Dutch the in regrouped manager, he England somewhatill-fateda2005.After 16-monthyearsin stintas30 highest-everitsto sideleading thePremierLeague position for

ILLUSTRATED SPORTS What’sfascinating is that every league has its own personality: of tempo the is away straight you gets what England, “In Napoli and Schalke have both tasted relegation to lower leagues Whensometheof more vociferous knownfans– ‘ultras’as – “Actually, the memorable most of aspect probably the was it some it’s because that, mention should“It’s interesting you club’shisWe’redefeat settledon hasdustspeaking the after O SO O CCERL EA m G a y UE 2012 2012 S - - - FC Twente made a somewhat sobering €33-million, which is less €202-million and Real Madrid made a staggering Schalke Football Deloitte League, received latest €479.5-million. Money the in €97-million. turnoverHolland, of have Ajax, a comparison, By in biggest club the EPL’s, and the of 10th a is rights TV from income in The entertainers can. teams Dutch big the of European football. the None with compete can’t simply team his teamscouldn’t cope. tallyattuned to what he wanted to achieve, and the other men playersDutch the got direct, more power, was more added he me tell they straightaway– it noticed to speak I Twentefans TheEngland. in he’dlearnedideas own his of some in added traitsandthese recognisedTwente;withallseason firsthe his game,to read the game, to think more deeply about it.” playerstaughtarevery youngfromaintelligent beage to thein Holland; coaching great set-up in a is there opponent. But the midfieldin havingandgame-plan a specifically nullifytoupset slowa build-up fromtheback which involves getting extra men slowertempo,” says McClaren. “More of a thoughtful game, with teamTwente play, the differences are marked. between Gelsenkirchen in Germany and Enschede, where Dutchgroundyoungingfor talent. although And there’s only100km breedquiteslow,asa seenFrench often butTheleague ful.is FC Twente to their first-ever league title in 2010. magic touch Unfortunately,forallthefinework McClaren doesTwente,at in leagueDutch the wonMcClarenwhy perhaps, Which,is “TheDutch league ismore technical and tactical, with mucha Englishman Steve McClaren coached Dutch side - -

Photos by Gallo Images/Getty Images/AFP

Photos by Gallo Images/Getty Images/afp NF www.sportsillustrated.co.za L Scanda L l

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than the team which finishes bottom of the EPL is allocated just me, Spain is probably a better league but if you’re talking about for competing in the league! Such spending power is why even “Real Madrid and specific league matches over a season, the Premier League is the most middling of EPL sides can cherry-pick talent from the probably more exciting.” Dutch league: Fulham bought Bryan Ruiz from Twente at the It’s telling that Kebbie has – if briefly – passed through start of this season for £10.6-million. Barcelona are 20 or Barcelona’s La Masia, where Messi, Iniesta, Xavi and many more all learned to play the game. It’s become such a beacon of excel- o even though McClaren points out that the race for the 30 points ahead of lence, other clubs are flagrantly trying to copy it. Barcelona are Dutch title is incredibly exciting, the fact remains that only without question one of the best teams ever to play football, and Sfour of the players called up for the 21-man national squad everyone else nearly they’ve done so by investing in youth rather than big-name play- who beat England in February actually play in the Eredivisie. ers – although they can do that these days too. Nobody – not even the most rabid Dutch football supporter – every season.” Their battles with Real Madrid are so compelling, with Messi would argue that it’s the best league in Europe. So what is? Even up against Ronaldo and, of course, Jose Mourinho pitting his McClaren has trouble answering the question. wits against Pep Guardiola, it would seem obvious to suggest “You know what was enjoyable about managing in the Premier – Steve McClaren that La Liga is the best in Europe – particularly when Athletic League?” says McClaren. “The intensity surrounding every single Bilbao are cruising past Manchester United and Valencia are game. And I mean every game,” he laughs. “Every week felt like outclassing Stoke City. It’s less a matter of opinion that Spain a cup tie, and it was physically and mentally very, very testing. A has the world’s best players than a statement of fact: every win- season in English Premier League is so difficult. ner of the FIFA Ballon D’Or since 2007 now plays in Spain. “I must say though, what was so eye-opening about the Incredibly, even if you count the players who came second and Bundesliga was the professionalism and discipline of the players third in that time, there’s still only one who doesn’t play in La – and it’s breeding some great talent. It’s a league that is growing Liga – Fernando Torres. in stature I think, and that’s entirely because the players that are But there’s still the sneaking suspicion that while Spanish coming through have been coached from an early age to be intel- football may be great – inspirational even – and its teams largely ligent, thoughtful human beings who can cope with the tactical dominant when they play sides from other nations, the league and technical side of the game. We’re doing it at FC Twente too, itself is not. Partly that’s a consequence of the TV deal, which is and I think English football could learn a lot from it.” not struck on a collective basis as it is in other leagues: essentially In fact, one English footballer is doing just that. Elliot Kebbie it means Real Madrid and Barcelona get 50 percent of the annual had a typical upbringing – he joined his local club Leeds United €618-million revenues, and the other 18 clubs have to share out and steadily began to make a name for himself at youth level, to the rest between them. There’s a real sense that, on a weekly basis, the extent that he began to get noticed by some of big teams in the many clubs in La Liga don’t actually try that hard against the big EPL. There was interest from Manchester United, Everton and two, because they know they cannot compete. Sunderland – but the 17-year-old had broader horizons. After “If you look at La Liga, Real Madrid and Barcelona are 20 or a trial at Barcelona’s famous La Masia academy, in January he 30 points ahead of everyone else nearly every season,” agrees rising star Lille’s Eden Hazard is the best player in France’s Ligue was picked up by Atletico Madrid, also in the Europa League McClaren. “And to me, that’s not the definition of a competitive Un – and he’s still chosen to play in one of the Europe’s ‘bigger’ knockout stages, and signed a four–year deal. The differences league. In England, Germany and Holland it’s much closer, which leagues. between English and Spanish football were, for him, immediately I think makes it far more interesting and exciting.” noticeable. It’s interesting that McClaren, like the Schalke and Twente Germany, encourage young Italian talent and new ways of think- “The hardest thing is to understand the different philosophy of fans, doesn’t even mention Italy’s Serie A or France’s Ligue Un. ing. After all, anyone who watches Napoli regularly can’t help but football, and adapting to different methods of shape and forma- The latter is undergoing something of a renaissance in inter- be entertained by their dynamic front three of Lavezzi, Hamsik tion,” he says. “In Spain far more emphasis is placed on the tech- est – partly thanks to the fact that Lyon have stopped winning and Cavani. nical aspects of the game and less on the physical side of things. it every year and also due to the Manchester City-style influx In the end, it’s almost impossible to compare leagues with And of course that takes time to get to grips with because there’s of Middle Eastern money into Paris St Germain. But even with such disparate styles and financial rewards. But perhaps this is an initial language barrier.” Carlo Ancelotti as the manager and unheard-of wealth in Ligue one way of looking at it: the players love the challenge (and the But Kebbie is hoping that will come. For him, it’s the best place Un terms – PSG smashed the French transfer record with the rewards) of the English Premier League. Coaches admire the to be at the moment, particularly as the Spanish teams have done €42-million signing of Javier Pastore – they still failed to attract technical ability of the Spanish teams (but might prefer to watch so well in the European competitions this year. a marquee signing to the club in February. The standard is high them in European competition). Supporters will always pick the “By being in Spain I can really improve on technical and enough to develop some really exciting talent, but when the best league their team plays in, but for the proper matchday experi- tactical skills – more so than I could have done elsewhere,” he young player in France, Lille’s Eden Hazard, tells L’Equipe “I feel ence, Germany is unbeatable. FP admits. “The Premier League is very quick and exciting, but you A ready to make it to the next level at a big club”, it says it all. And for the armchair fan who just wants to pick one league to es/ would have to say the way that Barcelona, Real Madrid and even g Meanwhile in Serie A, there’s still the sense – clichéd or not – entertain, excite and surprise every weekend? It’s still the Premier Athletic Bilbao have performed this season suggests the Spanish that it’s a league for the football purist obsessed with defence. League. Whether it actually provides us with the best football in es/Getty Ima

are setting the benchmark. “ g The stats to tend to back that up – there are fewer goals scored the world is a moot And if he had to choose between them? per game in Serie A than in any other. Financial constraints pre- point. But you can Watch the English Premier “That’s a tough question. Too many things go into the equation. world’s best Having three-time Ballon D’Or winner Lionel Messi vent the opulent signings of the past, and it’s difficult to believe, bet McClaren would League, La Liga and the Coaching, players, finances, fans and of course the organisation playing in La Liga gives rise to its description as the best league in these days, that stars of the future would choose Milan over like to manage there Bundesliga, live on SuperSport.

and marketing of the leagues are all different across Europe. For Europe. Photos by Gallo Ima Manchester or Madrid. But perhaps such prudence can, as in again one day.

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