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E71442c4-9807-4641-A6c8-3C87c5737579.Pdf Paddling the JOHN WESLEY POWELL ROUTE Packrafting the Colorado River in Glen Canyon while searching for a loop from Lee’s Ferry. Paddling the JOHN WESLEY POWELL ROUTE Exploring the Green and Colorado Rivers MIKE BEZEMEK Guilford, Connecticut An imprint of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Blvd., Ste. 200 Lanham, MD 20706 www .rowman .com Falcon and FalconGuides are registered trademarks and Make Adventure Your Story is a trademark of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. Distributed by NATIONAL BOOK NETWORK Copyright © 2018 Mike Bezemek All photos by Mike Bezemek unless otherwise noted Maps © The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review. British Library Cataloguing- in- Publication Information available Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data available ISBN 978-1-4930-3481-9 (paperback) ISBN 978-1-4930-3482-6 (e- book) The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of Ameri- can National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992. Printed in the United States of America The authors and The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. assume no liability for accidents happening to, or injuries sustained by, readers who engage in the activities described in this book. For the boaters who showed me how. For the boaters I’ve met along the way. And for the boaters we’ve lost but still float with us through these canyons. Last rays from a setting sun illuminate a butte in Desolation Canyon on the Green River. Contents FOREWORD: WELCOME TO THE POWELL ROUTE! x ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xiii INTRODUCTION xvi The Many Paths to Becoming a Powell Route “Pilgrim” xix Types of Trips xxi What to Expect along the Route xxiii Equipment for the Route xxxiii Resources: Books, Films, Museums, and Courses xxxviii Shucks, I Dare You to Watch Disney’s Ten Who Dared xliii HOW TO USE THIS BOOK xlvi TRIP FINDER BY DURATION AND CHARACTER li MAP LEGEND liv 0. Upper Green River and Lakes 1 Upstream of the Powell route, paddle beneath the dramatic Wind River Range or through a peaceful wildlife refuge. • State- by- State Watercraft Regulations • Name That River: The Green, the Colorado—and the Grand? • Prologue: “All” of History Before 1869, with Apologies, in Seven Paragraphs 1. Flaming Gorge Reservoir 19 From Expedition Island to a surreal desert reservoir, the first “official” segment offers everything from easy day trips to a 90-mile proving ground for through- paddlers. • Outfitters, Services, and Supplies for Flaming Gorge Country and Red Canyon • Who Starts from an Island? • 1869, Part I: Those Early, Carefree Days Near Flaming Gorge 2. Red Canyon and Browns Park 40 Join the crowds and then leave them along 47 miles of the Green River with five sections, ranging from a famous scenic gorge to a forgotten and empty valley. • Oh, My Hands, the Humanity! • 1869, Part II: Well, It Wasn’t Named Disaster Falls Out of Irony 3. Lodore, Whirlpool, and Split Mountain Canyons 62 The Powell route’s best 4-day trip takes paddlers through a billion years of twisted geology, the otherworldly Echo Park, and plenty of class III rapids. • Outfitters, Services, and Supplies for Dino, Uinta Basin, and Deso • Long Days in Lodore; or, What’s the Deal with Dino? 4. Uinta Basin 82 A hundred miles of low bluffs and lazy river, this little- paddled segment is almost a blank spot on the modern river- runner’s map that’s well worth exploring. • River Advocate Fills “Blank Spot” in Uinta Basin • 1869, Part III: Into Desolation with the Judgment and Luck of Schoolboys 5. Desolation and Gray Canyons 101 Float through two abandoned canyons, with ample ruins, petroglyphs, hikes, wildlife, and class II rapids. This week- long trip is a natural amusement park for paddlers. • Deso/Solo; or Searching for Sumner’s Amphitheater • Commercial Outfitters for Deso/Gray 6. Labyrinth and Stillwater Canyons 121 Two roughly 50-mile trips on the Green River can be run separate or together, offering perhaps the finest flatwater paddling through the desert southwest and Canyonlands National Park. • River Maps and Guides for Canyonlands Area • Professor Leads Expedition Down the Powell Route for Sesquicentennial Rediscovery • 1869, Part IV: Let’s Go Name Cool Stuff in Canyonlands! CONTENTS VII 7. Cataract Canyon 141 Attention adrenaline- seekers (who don’t mind some flatwater): The middle 15 miles of this multiday trip on the Colorado River include some of the largest rapids along the route. • Outfitters and Services for Cataract Canyon 8. Lake Powell and Glen Canyon 151 Powell’s beloved canyon is flooded behind a controversial dam, but paddling options abound on the reservoir and 15 miles of Colorado River offer lofty insight into what once was. • Lake Powell Skeptics Call Truce During Winter Crossing • A “Trade” That Never Happened? • 1869, Part V: Is Glen Canyon More Light and Airy Than Our Boats? 9. Grand Canyon 176 Ridiculous scenery, amazing side hikes, crashing whitewater—this multiday trip of a lifetime through Marble and Grand Canyons is what you came for. So, let’s get on with it! • Commercial Trips through Grand Canyon • Private Trip Equipment Outfitters and Shuttle Services • 1869, Part VI: About That Whole “Worst Rapid” Thing above Grand Canyon 10. Lower Colorado River and Reservoirs 197 Below the Powell route, there are many paddling opportunities, including Black Canyon of the Colorado, aka “the Vegas of float trips” (more about hot springs than solitude). • From Source-to-Sea along the Green and Colorado Rivers • 1869 Epilogue: After the Expedition—Plus, Who Was JWP? ABOUT THE AUTHOR 218 VIII CONTENTS THE JOHN WESLEY POWELL ROUTE Boise IDAHO 15 Green River Lakes 84 0. UPPER GREEN RIVER Casper AND LAKES 15 G r e en WYO MING R iv e r 80 Great 1. FLAMING GORGE Flaming Gorge RESERVOIR 80 Salt Lake Great Salt L. Reservoir DINOSAUR 2. RED CANYON AND NATIONAL MONUMENT Salt Lake City BROWNS PARK Yampa River Utah Lake 3. LODORE, WHIRLPOOL, AND 4. UINTA BASIN SPLIT MOUNTAIN CANYONS r e W v h i ite R R iv er n e e 15 r UTAH G ARCHES 70 NEVADA 5. DESOLATION AND NATIONAL GRAY CANYONS PARK r 70 e iv R 6. LABYRINTH AND do COLORADO ra lo STILLWATER CANYONS o C CANYONLANDS NATIONAL PARK r e i v R 7.C7.CAATTAARACTRACT CANYONS e t i 15 h 8. LAKE POWELL GLEN W AND GLEN CANYON CANYON NRA Sa River n Juan Lake Powell GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK Lake Las Vegas Mead do Riv lora er NEW MEXICO Co L itt le LAKE MEAD 9. GRAND CANYON C o NATIONAL l Lake o RECREATION AREA r Mohave ad o R 40 iv 40 er Albuquerque 15 40 ARIZONA Lake Havasu 17 10. LOWER COLORADO RIVER AND RESERVOIRS 25 10 Phoenix Salton Sea 10 N 8 Ri o Gr a nd e 0 Kilometers 100 Tucson 10 0 Miles 100 Foreword: Welcome to the Powell Route! Imagine you’re in the Gates of Lodore, standing on shore as the scout for Hell’s Half Mile, and a kayaker turns to you and says, “Moldy flour.” Or envision yourself floating through Labyrinth Canyon when a passing canoeist drops the phrase “rancid bacon.” Or suppose you’re rowing nervously for your first time into Hance Rapids in the Grand Canyon when a gawker on shore shouts, “Protect the coffee!” Would you grasp the references? If such phrases hold meaning for many Western boaters today, it’s all due to the sorry state of John Wesley Powell’s rations during his 1869 expedition. The challenges he and his group faced have become as much a part of modern river lore as the image of Powell himself—the one- armed Civil War veteran sitting in an armchair lashed to the deck of a wooden boat, barking orders at his ragtag crew of mountain men. Powell’s daring 1,000-mile journey down the Green and Colorado Rivers has lodged in our collective memory in part because of the danger and adventure and in part because it colored in the last major blank spot on the American map, back when the West was still wild. But Powell’s story has stuck with us also because most of the canyons he explored have changed little in the century and a half since he first floated them. Sure, the country’s two largest reservoirs, Lake Mead and his namesake Lake Powell, now cover portions of the route. And there are a few bridges scattered here and there. But the John Wesley Powell route still offers one of the greatest opportunities for wilderness river adventure on the planet. I know this because in 2011, Will Stauffer-Norris and I, both fresh out of college and looking to paddle away from the looming threat of careers, traversed the entirety of Powell’s route by going source to sea on the Green and Colorado Rivers. We com- pleted the journey in the off- season months of October to December. During our whole trip, we saw no other overnight boaters outside of the Grand Canyon (so, yeah, maybe that was me shouting about coffee at Hance). Sometimes we paddled 20 miles apart for days on end just to soak up the solitude. During one such solo paddle through Desolation Canyon, I remember how the river glowed golden as I pulled into camp for the evening.
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