Perspective

A LAND OF HISTORY OF THE FLOAT TRIPS DOWN THE PEOPLEWHO CAME TO CONTRASTS MINING CAMPS, "RIVER OF NO RETURN," TAME THE FRONTIER: RANGES OF TAR-PAPER SHACKS, FI.Y-FISHING ON A EXPLORERS,TRAPPERS, SPECTACULARLY LEWISAND CLARK, RUSHING MOUNTAIN MISSIONARIES, PINNACLED PEAKS, I.NDIAN WARS, STREAM, BACK-PACKING MINERS, FARMERS, VAST EXPANSES IRRIGATION TRACTS, IN THE SAWTOOTHS RANCHERS, OF RAW, EXPOSED VAST CATTLE AND OR TETONS. ENTREPRENEURS, LAVA FORMATIONS, SHEEP RANGES. OPPORTUN I STS . SAGEBRUSH-COVERED DESERTS AND PLATKAUS, BROAD IRRIGATED FERTILE RIVKR VALLEYS, AWESOME MAJESTICALLY CARVED RIVER CANYONS. Snake Basin The Snake River, a major tributary of the mighty Columbia southern Idaho, the river flows across the River, is itself one of the largest Snake River Plain. From 10 to 15 million rivers in the United States.Larger years ago, a massive successionof lava flows than the Colorado and Sacramento createdthe Snake River Plain area, an area of combined, the Snake delivers an 8,500 square miles, As mountains rose across averageof about 50,000 cubic feet of those plains, the Snake began cutting the Hells water into the Columbia every se- Canyon, which now has a maximum depth of cond. This provides one-fifth of the 7,900 feet, exceeding that of the Colorado's Columbia's total flow, Grand Canyon. The Snake and its tributaries drain The Snake has a number of cataracts and a basin of over 109,000 square miles, waterfalls, of which Shoshone,260 feet high, including most of Idaho, as well as is one of the most beautiful. An unusual and western Wyoming, northern Utah and striking feature of the river is a seriesof crystal- Nevada, easternOregon and south- clear springs pouring down precipitous banks, eastern Washington. sometimescarving deep side canyons, From its origin on the western slopes of Surfaceand underground water resourcesof impor- Continental Divide in Yellowstone Nationa roughout the Snake'swatershed include hot as weH Wyoming, the Snake flows some 1,000 miles through ascold water.Geothermal power, exploited in a modestway mountain ranges, narrow canyons, forested hills sagebrush-covered since 1890, is available on a considerable scale in a terrain affected desertsand plateaus,lava plains and broad irrigated river valleys until by extensiverecent volcanic activity. Ice cavesalso develop in other it joins the Columbia River near Pasco, Washington, spots in the Snake's lava fields, All of these curiosities attest to a Annual precipitation rangesfrom about 7 inchesin the south and diverse and challenging environment with a variety of natural wonders. southcentral plains area to more than 60 inches in the mountain ranges. Gradual changesin climate and in topography continue to affect the Seasonal variations in runoff can be extreme, depending on the depth Snake and its basin. Snow and ice, heat and water, crustal movements of the winter snowpack stored in the higher elevations. In spite of a which imperceptiblyraise and lower mountainsand plains,and shifting large total supply, water is not always available where and when it is coursesof streamand riverscontinue to alter an alreadyvaried land- needed. Numerous dams along the Snake system now control the scape.Dams and reservoirsprovide sudden changeswhich speedup river's floods. 1hese storagereservoirs have also reducedthe effects of some of those long-term effects. No one can be sure when another ice drought and have enabled large-scale irrigation projects to take place sheet may advancetoward the Snake River's large basin,or whether a within the basin. hotter and drier climate is emerging just now. But over a period of Most of the Upper Snake River Basin is mountainous with its waters thousandsof years, remarkable changeswill continue to transform an flowing through such familiar ranges as the Rockies, the Grand Tetons, area which has a spectacularreceipt natural history of dramatic and the Bitteroot and the Sawtooth mountains, But in its passage across sometimes cataclysmic events. History The Snake River has been a river of White men appearedin the region with was an inhospitable place they had to mystery to the white man untfl recent the Lewis and Clark expedition. On pass through on their journey along the times. But for the Indian tribes, such as August 12, 1805, Lewis and three Oregon trail. the Nez Perce, Shoshone-Bannock, and rnernbers of his party crossed the Con- In 1861, gold was discovered in the Paiute, the river has been a focal point tinental Divide at Lernhi Pass where they Basin and suddenly attracted thousand» for their culture and traditions for more met 60 Shoshone Indian Warriors on of settlers to the mountains and valleys than 14,000years, horseback, Provided with horses and which had seemedquite forbidding only The early ancestorsof these tribes led supplies,Lewis and Clark traveledNorth a year or two before. Emigrants se tling a nomadic existence in the Snake River recrossingthe Continental Divide, down along the river began farming the flood Basin, subsistingon hunting, fishing, and the Bitteroot River, and over Lolo Pass plain areas. With the hungry miners pro- foraging. Bartering was active among the where they met the Nez PerceTribe on viding a sure market for their products, Indians who lived within the Basin. The September20, 1805. With the assistance thriving farmers began searchingfor river and its extensive plains offered an of the Nez Perce, they traveled down the methods of increasingthe farming poten- avenue of communication, travel, and Lolo Trail to the Snake River. The Nez tial of the area. Small irrigation projects cultural exchangethat affected all Basin's Percealso provided supplies to the ex- were begun-projects that would bring a inhabitants. pedition, drew maps, and gave informa- new era and prosperity to this Basin. Prior to white contact, Indians from a tion on the different tribes Lewis and Two twentieth century developments- vast area met each summer for a great Clark would encounter on their irrigation and power-have made rich trade festival in a Snake River area where westward trip. farmlands out of once barren deserts. numerous other streams Payette, Boise, For many years, there was peace bet- Reclamation projects such as the Boise Owyhee, dreiser, and Majheur! converg- ween the Indian tribes and the white Project, completed in 1908, and the ed in an excellent salmon fishery. Lower men. Not until the hordes of white set- Minidoka project in 1906 brought cheap Columbia peoples, Nez Perce, Cayuse, tlers began usurping the Indians' lands electrical power and "liquid gold" to Northern Paiute, local and regional Nor- did the Indians become belligerent and southern Idaho. Irrigated farming and thern Shoshone,and more remote plains resort to retaliation, with numerous at- railroad transportation has Ied to the peoples such as Arapaho horsemencame tacks on lone wagon trains. development of a string of new com- in from all directions. This gathering, The white settlement of the Snake rnunities along the Snake River over the comparable to similar annual events River Basin did not come easy. Explorers, past century. around The Dajles and Cascades of the trappers, and missionarieswere the first For the past 14,000years the river and Columbia Dam and reservoir and otbqr birds of prey'in Q.iverBasin ALso produces 96% o allthe commeraal tiout North America. Over thirty- Canyon,or down!he Salmon, a trib!ataryknown as the 'River of No in theUnited Sties,!ivith almost all occurringwithin the navigationalOxbow Dam Packer Johrr'sCabin Euetfly the nearby hills. Farmerssoon learned that crop pro'duction was prolific when grown under irrigation m the. dry, arid invironment.' Irrigated'Ag fculfur'e wduld not electric power plar t in the Pacific Islow, it appears'the era of The systematicdevelopment of irrigationbegan in the 1870's.Farmers soon be the corrierstcrneof the Basin's Nor'thwest. Qrre year Iater, power !abundant and inexpensivehydro- discovered'financial resources.needed to develop irrigation projects were economywithout the j.ar!y was provided to three pumping electric power has come to an beyond their individual means. So canal companies,water user associations, Browntee Dam dev'elopmentof electricity. In 'stations which provided wa'ter to !end. Recent court actions and and imgationcompanies were organized, ofben wfth the help of eastern fact, energy development and 50,000 acres of land, public opiruon have preserved capitalists, to develop community irrigation projects. By the 1880's,80,000 agricuIturegrew up togetherin Although the primary purpose !j suchareas as the lower Hells Ca- acreswere under cultivation in the BoiseValley alone. the Snake River Basin, of these projects was to provide nyon, where the only remaining The passageof two Federalland laws, the Carey Act 894! and the Na- Yellowstone. ln the early 1900's, it became energy for irrigation, the energy tional ReclamationAct 902! acceleratedthe developmentof Irrigationpro- National ! large-scalehydro-electric develop- Park 'evident that pr mps were needed quicklyserved a moreuniversal r ment could occur, To meet fu,ture jectsin the,Basin and the establishmentof the foundationof today'sirrigated to lift water to,irrigate much of pur1rose,In contrast with most of : demand large-scalethermal power empire.' the basÃs ands. The needed rural America, ' the communities ' pIantsare beingdeveloped and With the infusionof Federaldollars and support,such projects as the Boise capital inva'tment costs were tao which developednear these pro-, low-head hydro projects are be- 'Project 908! and the Minidoka Project 904! were completed. Diversion dams used low-'cost electricity to pump irrigation water to arid,. but fertile great for private irlvestors, so the jects did not have to wait for the ing discussed. Federal 'Governmerrt became a Rural Hectrifications Administra- lands. Soon the transformation began turning sagebrushand desert into Even with these new facilities, crops, farmlan4s and towns, Will!ngpartner with the creaBOn tfon. or post-World 'War U rural - the added electrical generation Today,over 6;000, j00acres are under cultivation in the SnakeRiver of the Reclamation Service in development. Surplus electricity may not be enough to prevent Basin. Projections suggestthat an additional one miUion acres may be put 1902, through passageof the from these,projects providerI Iow- crippling power shortagesin the under cultivation over the next several decades. ReclamationAct, Now, large cost electric power for thesecom-' - future. Circular sprinkler systemsand modern pumping methods have been sumsof money.support, and ex- munities to meet household, in- To avert such a prospect, in- developed to more' efficiently bring water to crops, Increasingcrop yields pertasewere available to develop dustrial, and municipal needs. For tensiveefforts are underway to while lowering water use. However, even with modern technology, the de- power and extensive irrigation example, in 1914, the town of reduceelectricity demand through rnand for both surface and groundwater wiH continue to increase.Future use, Gem Co. Museum 4 systems.The costs could be Rupertbuik the first electrically energy conservation, and to of the water for increased'irrigation wiB need to be balancedagainst other Black Canyon Dam repaid by the wate} users under heated high school in the United ' develop,renewable energy~ cornpetmguses for the finite waters of the Snake River. Teton Ãauonal long-tenn, low-mterest loans, States. resources, Public Law 96-501, the 26 The Bureau of Reclamation The electrification of the Snake l acrfrc Northwest EIectrrc Power Park became the dominant force in River Basinbased on low'-cost Planning and Conservation Act of So SnakeRiver Arrow Dam thesedevelOpments, by planning, hydro-electric power, continued 1980, provides a mechanismfor Birds of Prey through the years. In the 1960's Natural Area VeteransMemorial designing,ftnancing, const'ructing, r'.translating theseefforts into a rlsq-"r nd even operating these systems, the construction of Ice Harbor I regronwideaction plan. Ik r~ N! The Brst Reclamationproject in 961!, Lower jv onumentaI As in the past, sound planning ~%ver the Snake River Basin occurred 968!, Little Goose 970!, HeIIs l and wisestewardship of our 26 C a!r!we0 I ~se near Minidoka, Idaho. Construc- Canyon 967!, and Oxbow resourcesare the keys to a secure I a'..Q ~o tion on the Minidoka Dam begin 961! dams brought an addi- I' energyfuture for the SnakeRiver 20 in 1908 the first Federalhydro tional 4 million kilowatts into the r' Basin. basm I'a!i sadesDam Luckey Peak a 26 30 " 'Craters of 95 S rray oorr Nar1 Monument 187 Monument CrwyheeCounty lvfuseum L . Strrr r rarlrI rnrne Great Rift National Landmark

SquawCreek Canybn Fr. Hag 1534

C.j. Strike Darn Lurnvck Co. Ivluseum Bruru;auDunes 6 he; ri , MaIad i County Museums Arnerlcan Fal!s Dam . Is arel 'i Ilrree islarrdCrossing ~ Dam Sites «TwrrrI aI!s Mrnrr!oka C unr ThousandSprings seem,Minirloka Dam ' Outlet for LostRaver Is r?rex rr assacreRocks Twin'halts Rock Seenir!Deep Canyon LavaHot Springs 30 uvdey ~ 8 ssla Co ry Iviuseurn Many counties maintain historical displays and collections, often in their Many historic sites are listed in the National Register of Historic Places. A local courthouses. Other exhibits and historrcal markers are scattered partial history includes: Whitman Mission Walla Walla!; Boise Capitol, throughout the basin, depicting the historical, geological, and ecological Logan House, Union Pacific Depot, Oregon Train Boise!; Fort Hall; Stand- features of the river basin. rod House Pocatello!; Idaho City; Fort Boise; Nampa Railway Station, Public Library Nampa!; Delamar Historic District; Silver City Historic District; Fort Lapwai; Lewiston Historic District, Railway Depot, Spalding Home and Mission Lewiston! Minidoka Dam and Power Plant; Boise Diversion Dam

NATURAL ENVIRONMENT RECREATION Fish tk Wildlife: Numerous State Parks, National Forest Areas, and county recreation Refuges, hatcherlie, fish ladders and vierving rooms at lower Snake River areas are located within the Snake River Basin, for year-round activities. dams Most Dams, located along the Snake River System, are multi-purpose Birds of Prey Natural Area projects, with parks developed along the reservoirs, Min!doka National Wildlife Refuge Deer Flat National Wildlife Refuge Check with Federal, State, or local agenciesfor more specific information National Forests on the location that you may be interrnted in. A sample listing of some of Grand Teton the recreational areas follows: Yellowstone National Parks Chief Timothy State Park WA! Dworshak National Fish Hatchery Chief Looking GlassPark WA! Geologyik Natura! Attractions: SacajaweaState Park WA! Bruneau Sand Dunes HeBsGate State Park ID! ShoshoneFalls Twin Falls! Lucy Peak State Park ID! Craters of the Moon National Monument Arco! BruneauState Park ID! Balanced Rock Castleford! MassacreRocirs State Park ID! Crystal Ice Caves Pocatello! Lava Hot Springs ID! Lava Hot Springs Grand Teton National Park WY! Hells Canyon City of Rocks Almo! YellowstoneNational Park WY! Grand Teton Mountains Hells Canyon National RecreationalArea OR tk ID! Hot springs and geysers Lake Owyhee State Park OR! Hot Springs and Geysers Farewell Bend State Park OR! Deep Canyon River Gorges SawtoothNational RecreationalArea ID! water falls, lava plains. "Ghost Toums" and remnants of Cah'fornia and Oregon trail are scattered throughout Basin .

There are a multitude of locations where the Snake River's story can be seenand experienced. Here are a few visitor centers, parks, museurns, historic sites, and natural attractions that portray the river's heritage. VISITOR CENTERS RIVER HISTORY Museums, Historic Sites! Minidoka Darn .. First Federal hydroelectric powerplant in Idaho StateMuseum Boise!,,... Indians of Idaho, Early pioneer way of Pacific Northwest 908! life BoiseDiversion Dam . Featuring original generators, which Idaho State Uruveristy PocateBo! Display of Bannock, and Shoshone began operation in 1912 Indian artifacts Ice Harbor Dam..... Featureswalk inside a working hydro- Ne-Mee-Poo Museum Kooskla! . Nez Perce Indian artifacts electric turbine, navigation lock, fish Nez ParceNational ladder, self-guided tour HistoricalPark Lapwa8,,...., . Culture of the Nez Perce Indians, and Crater of the Moon National history of early explorers, traders, Monument...... ,..., . Volcanic features, with displays of Rora soldiers, missionaries, and settlers and fauna of the area Fort HaB. One of the first permanent settlements in Alpowai InterpretiveCenter Idaho, built in 1834 Chief TinrothyState Park.... History of Nez Perce Indians and Lewis Luna HouseMuseum Lewiston! .. Indian artifacts and other relics, dating Publishedbythe- ABOIITTFBS PACIFICIVORTHWEST RIVER BASINS COM1VIISSION kWASHINGTOIV SEA GRANT PROGRAM Thismap is a productofthe Pacific Northwest River Basirrs Comm mian'sS a cardsof the River Program,and the CashingSea onGrant's Columbia/Snake River Marine Advisory Services PNRBC Vice-Chairman component. GeorgeProctor ThePacific lVorthwest River Basins Commission wasa planningpartneiship uniong 5 Nortiiuzest Stewardsofthe River Steenng Committee Statesand II Federa!Government agencies tocoordinate and plan iointiy for hcmanagement and drvr4prnentof the water and related !and resources of rhe Pacific Northwesr. The Commzssion Owen!ala on,. U.S.Army Corps of Engineers, NPD servedas an a era ate,intemgeniy forum for addivssing thedifficult iaeter resources issues and RonMcCormick U.S.Dept. of AgricultmvForest Service, Region 0 opportunitiesfaced in hisregion The Commission alsoearned asthe principal agency for the DonSchaus en, L!.S.Entity. Bonneville Power Administration coord na of on water and related resource pianmng in the region. PaulScherbel .. Stateof Wyoming TheCommission sponsored theSteiuards ofthe River Program as"a coordbiated planning effort fimScott. Washing Dept.an of Ecology foran eapanded recreation+ development of the Columbia River am! its major tribu artesusing the RichWinters... U.S.Dept, of the interior, Heritage Stewardshzpthente.' Bet seen1975 and 1981, the Pmgriim a tempted todevelop a Stezuardship CozzservationandNational Park Service fmmeworkPlan for the Columbia River sys emaiid establish a regions! uiforriza networkion for riverrecreation, educahon, and heri ageand to provideorganize ionalassistance toprogntins and projecuzhich s exemplify river stervardship. TheCorrirnizsion wmestoblished m1967, ot the mquest o the ffve Northwest Governors and was BillHutchi neon abolishedinSeptember 1981 by Erecutive Order at rherequest ofthe V.S. Water Resources Council. DaveRiche Uponterrmna ionof the Commission. heWash ngSea onGrant Program assumed sponsorship for WASHINGTONSEA GRANT hepreparation of this map, a companiondocument toan earlier map entitled "Roll On-Columbia" dc tributedm early 1981. WilliamR. Davis ...... ,,, ActingDirector TheWashing Sea onGrant Program 4 part of tire Rational Sea Gran program which waa establishedin 198 by! rhe passage of thc iVariomz! SeaGrant College and program Ac p.L 89-688j Columbia/SnakeRiver Canaortium Steerlug Committee Thepurpose of the act is to accelerate national development of menne resources, including RobertHarris . UniversityofWashington conservingand~ng themuiisely, and i»cnmsing. to hegreatest amount porc'ble, thesocial and WashingtonSt~te University economkbenefits fram hem. iimBarron OregonState Un!vers ty TheColuinbia/Snake RiverSystem ililartne Advzsory Services component begirnin 1978. A HowardHorton UniversityofIdaho consortium.cozzszst ofthe ngUniversity ofIdaho, Oregon State Llniversity, Wmhington State FredKohl . WashingtonStateUniversity Vniversity,andthe University ofWashington coopers administeriveiy thisprogrmn. LeRoyRogers .. MarineResources Spec alia A marineresources specialist, under the guidance of he consor stean'ngium committee, pmvides IcelikeSpranger . Columbia/SnakeRiverSystem trainingand technica! assistance toindividuals andorganizations involved iri the use of the Columbia WasfdrmtooScaGr zntProgram River'smarine resources. Thespecialist alsodevelops educationa! prognzmsand mzueruils dealingwith l z I i I, ' - ' ' ": .- ...,,, publicissues and concerns about the use of theCohonbia River resources. iz}~lgin the past, educational progntms havebeen developed forport managers, commissioners. resource WithAssistance from- managers,elected off afs,educe ors,government admin stra seafoodore, consumers, andco~cerned SONNKVKLEPOWER ADMINISTRATION citizenson specific Columbia River system resource problems. ! i A slideprogranz and o hereducarional materiab on the wa eralioca ionproblems associated wi h theColumbia River system izave been developed and are readily avmiable for use by anyone CORPSOF ENGINEERS, North Pacific Division i. -..: I',ri,.!II requestingthem. MichaelMode ,IaC r ~ ,r;:p, ~ EditorialAssistance ForMore InformattonfokIp Ji C DonnaParsans, Snake River 14gional Stmlies Ccntcc, Col4gc of~ MichaelSpranger SteveWade, U.S. Bureau ofRcc4matton ' ii,~. Q I g c ~3 1918NE 78th Street J mWrlgky, Idaho Dept, of Water Resources Vancouver,Wasihingtun 95665 i27 z!69 «6018 ' '/' t«!'j "«!PzVBTI 'C'I I Thispublication hasbeen prepared bythe stafis of the PNWRBC WSGP SPA and CE Opitzions erpressedarethose of the authors and should not be construed asrepresenting theop monsorpolicies of anyof the agencies cited.