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Northern Limestone Northern , , means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying orotherwise No part ofthispublication mayNo part bereproduced, stored in a retrieval system, ortransmitted inany form orby any This book is printed on FSC certified This bookisprinted onFSCcertified 221 -atGordale. Photo:MikeHutton classic trad lineofFaceRoute(E36a)- page This page:NaomiBuysonthefirst pitchofthe page 194-atMalhamCove.Photo: MikeHutton Cover photo:JordanBuyson Batshadow paper madefrom 100% virgin fibre sourced from sustainable forestry Lancashire andCumbria. (ISO 14001 andEMAS printers). certified Published by ROCKFAX in January2015 Printed intheUKby Cambrian Printers guidebook to thebest Distributed by Cordee (cordee.co.uk). in the , source data from openstreetmap.org copyright owner. A CIPcatalogue record without prior writtenwithout prior ofthe permission by Glaister Mark orascredited. Some maps based on original Some mapsbasedonoriginal is available from Library. theBritish ISBN 9781873341926 Text, topos andphoto-topos limestone crags A rock All mapsby ROCKFAX Edited by Alan James. Action photography © ROCKFAX 2015 by Glaister. Mark All rights reserved.All rights rockfax.com (8c+) -

Lancashire South Cumbria Loup Scar and Troller's Gill Arncliffe to Kilnsey Malham and Gordale Giggleswick Area Area Advert Giggleswick Area . Crummackdale . Ingleborough Area . Grades . Access . LimestoneNorthern Climbing Pubs . Accommodation . LimestoneNorthern Logistics . Acknowledgements Introduction

Gordale Malham andGordale . Loup Scarand Troller's Gill Kilnsey . Arncliffe to Kilnsey General Index andMap . Route Index Lancashire South Cumbria . Giggleswick North Pot Scar. Hull Pot Moughton Nab. Panorama Crag . Robin Proctor's Scar Trow Gill. Twistleton Scar Destination Planner. Graded List Sport Trad Graded List Gear andBolting Climbing Walls, Cafes andShops. Getting Around andMap Previous Guidebooks. Symbol, Mapand Topo Key . Giggleswick South. Stony Bank . Attermire Scar Castleberg Crag . Area . Troller's Gill Loup Scar Dib Scar. Knipe Scar. Blue Scar. Yew Cogar . . Witches' Quarry Barrow ScoutCove Trowbarrow Quarry Humphrey Head. Mill SideScar Chapel HeadScar . . Scout Scar...... 302 275 258 252 250 238 350 368 360 346 344 332 326 324 359 352 182 124 218 168 184 164 156 312 276 376 316 106 100 108 310 97 26 87 82 78 70 56 42 40 34 32 30 28 24 22 20 44 36 14 18 12 10 9 4 Contents Northern Limestone Northern above The Catwalk at Malham Cove. Photo: Mike Hutton Antony Ingham onTheGroove(8a+) - page 197-high 3

Lancashire South Cumbria Loup Scar and Troller's Gill Arncliffe to Kilnsey Malham and Gordale Giggleswick Area Ingleborough Area Introduction

Northern Limestone

Buster Martin on Bat Route (8c) - page 194 - at Malham. Photo: Keith Sharples 4 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Whatever you climb, thisbookwillhave something for you. Rockfax guides, this bookhasbiggertopos, more routes andmore crags. limestone climbsinalltheseareas. Expandingonthecoverage ofprevious Limestone RockfaxThis Northern covers andtraditional bestsport thevery little routes in onPendleWitches' Quarry Hill,ofthe Witches legend. it ayear-round option. areAt theotherend ofthecounty someexquisite climbing upthecrack-lines ofitsMain Wall andanoft climate warm making limestone gems. Trowbarrow popularwithsomeclassictrad isvery Quarry Although better known for itsgritstone, Lancashire hasacoupleof useful option. snowbound. This makes thecrags ofHumphrey Headand ScoutScara climbing whentheLakeland are wind-blown, rain-swept oreven crimpy walls. The low altitudeand relatively benignclimate often allows tremendous rock andsomewell-developed tufa columnslinked by intricate limestone. ChapelHeadScaristhepremier crag ofthearea with Away from Yorkshire, alsopossessessomeexcellent SouthCumbria onofferplenty atthemore friendly endofthetraditional climbingspectrum. edges ofPot Scar, Crummackdale, Attermire and Twistleton Scarhave available. For thoselookingfor more traditional fayre, thelong-established Gill have seenincreasing visitors astheword hasspread aboutwhatis Scar, Moughton Nab, Giggleswick andSouth, Stony Bankand North Trow climbsthathavesport proved to beextremely popular. Robin Proctor's In recent years many othervenues have beendeveloped withmid-grade Blue Scar'sintimidatingarray traditional pitchesstand out. ofmodern Giggleswick'scurtain, Hollywood Bowl withitsupside-down steepness and liemanytrio otherfantastic crags. Amongst these Yew Cogar withitstufa theatreatmospheric inwhichto climb. Dotted around Yorkshire's mighty narrow gorge withtowering walls andashowering waterfall, providing an quality. Gordale isthemostintimidatingof'bigthree' andconsistsofa offering aplayground for thoselookingfor stamina routes ofthehighest crag, withitsseverely overhanging walls, leansoutover capsule ofclassictraditional climbing. The unmistakable bulk ofKilnsey routes,is linedwithhigh-standard sport whilsttheRight Wing isatime Malham istheoneof Yorkshire's 'bigthree'; itsdominatingcentral wall the country. rocky scars andoutcrops thatincludesomeofthefinestlimestone cliffs in Integral to thepicture-postcard are Dales thenumerous scenery white with milesofdrystone walls anddotted withdelightfulhamletsandvillages. The beautifullimestone landscapeofthe Yorkshire Dales iscriss-crossed Introduction Northern Limestone Northern 5

Lancashire South Cumbria Loup Scar and Troller's Gill Arncliffe to Kilnsey Malham and Gordale Giggleswick Area Ingleborough Area Introduction Northern Limestone

climbing developed in the area and a selection of the best traditional routes. a selection of the best traditional and area in the climbing developed As with the previous edition of the book, this one covers almost all of the sport almost all of the one covers edition of the book, this As with the previous and there are still a small number of crags that have required a hand-drawn topo. topo. a hand-drawn required have that of crags still a small number are and there Technology has conquered many obstacles but trees are proving a stubborn foe, a stubborn foe, proving are trees but obstacles many has conquered Technology increasing availability of smart phone apps and links to online route information. information. of smart online route availability and links to phone apps increasing photography being standard - and things are about to progress further with the progress to about are - and things being standard photography production world with full colour topos, GPS and top-notch crag and action and crag GPS and top-notch worldwith full colour topos, production Nearly a quarter of a century on, many things have changed in the guidebook in the guidebook changed a quarterNearly of a century things have on, many documented in the very first Rockfax (Yorkshire Limestone) by Mick Ryan in 1990. 1990. in Ryan by Mick Limestone) (Yorkshire Rockfax very in the first documented this edition of Northern Limestone is made up of the Yorkshire crags that were that were crags Yorkshire of Northernthis edition the is made up of Limestone Peak District which now has its own Rockfax (Peak Limestone 2012). The bulk of bulk The 2012). Limestone (Peak Rockfax has its own District which now Peak Coverage the longer includes no of the Northern edition new This Rockfax Limestone 6 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Introduction finest limestone tradclimbsinYorkshire. Photo:Tim Glasby 5b) -page214 -atMalham's RightWing,home tosomeofthe Setting offupthetricky starttoJunkyardAngel(HVS Northern Limestone Northern 7

Lancashire South Cumbria Loup Scar and Troller's Gill Arncliffe to Kilnsey Malham and Gordale Giggleswick Area Ingleborough Area 8 Northern Limestone Introduction

This book brings together the best climbing on Yorkshire, Cumbria and Lancashire limestone. Our

Ingleborough Area aim is that you should never have to turn more than a few pages to first get to the crag, then get to the buttress and finally locate the start of your chosen route. All route descriptions are on the same page as their topo and listed from left-to-right. There are many features to help choose suitable crags depending on specific weather conditions or your ability level. You can select a crag from the crag tables on page 40. Each topo also has crag symbols for a quick glance check - see key to the right.

The Rockfax App Giggleswick AreaGiggleswick There is an 'app' version of this guidebook (available in 2015) which contains all the crags and routes. You can purchase each crag individually, or the whole book. The main data on the app is downloaded and stored on your device so you don't need any signal to be able to read the descriptions and see the topos and maps. Malham and Gordale Malham Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup and Scar Troller's Gill

South CumbriaSouth UKC Logbooks An incredibly popular method of logging your climbing is to use the UKClimbing.com logbooks system. This database lists more than 304,000 routes, over 18,800 crags and, so far, more than 25,000 users have recorded over 3.6 million ascents! To set up your own logbook all you need to do is register at UKClimbing.com and click on the logbook tab. Once set up you will be able to record every ascent you make, when you did it, what style you climbed it in, who you did it with and each entry has a place for your own notes. You can also add your vote to the grade/star system linked to a database on the Rockfax site used by the guidebook writers. The logbook can be private, public or restricted to your own climbing partners only. Lancashire The Rockfax App can be linked to your UKClimbing.com user account and logbook so that you can record your activity as you progress and look at photos, comments and votes on the routes, although this does require a 3G/4G data connection. You can also look at the UKC logbooks to see if anyone has climbed your chosen route recently to check on conditions. Symbol, Map and Topo Key Northern Limestone 9

Route Symbols Topo Key Descent A good route which is well worth the effort. 1 Abseil line Belay 40m 2 A very good route, one of the best on the crag. A brilliant route, one of the best on Northern Approximate Area Ingleborough 3 Limestone. vertical 35m A significant route which is one of the best of its height >30m 4 type in the book. Technical climbing requiring good balance and Lower-off t technique, or complex and tricky moves. Powerful climbing; roofs, steep rock, low lock- Approximate Variation p offs or long moves off small holds. vertical 25m height <30m (see route Giggleswick Area Sustained climbing; either lots of hard moves or description) s steep rock giving pumpy climbing. Fingery climbing with significant small holds on f the hard sections. Fluttery climbing with big fall potential and scary h run-outs. A long reach is helpful, or even essential, for one r or more of the moves. 3 Graunchy climbing, wide cracks or awkward Malham and Gordale k thrutchy moves. l Some loose rock may be encountered. Crag Symbols Sport route Angle of the approach walk to the crag with Trad route (yellow dash) (white dash) 20 mins approximate time. S Kilnsey to Arncliffe Approximate time that the crag is in the direct sun 5 E (when it is shining). The crag is exposed to bad weather and will catch 1 2 4 $ the wind if it is blowing. Buttress on another page The crag can offer shelter from cold winds and it page Approach * may be a good suntrap in colder weather. The crag suffers from seepage. It may well be wet Map Key @ and unclimbable in winter and early spring. Gill Troller's Scar and Loup The crag is steep and may well offer some dry Scale ! rock to climb when it is raining. Woods

K Some or all of the routes are multi-pitch. A Crag page Trees Some or all of the routes are affected by a GPS Coordinates

of parking South Cumbria X restriction. Check the crag information for details. B Roads Additional Deserted - Currently under-used and usually quiet. Town/village parking Fewer good routes or remote and smaller areas.

Quiet - Less popular sections on major crags, QR code for or good buttresses with awkward approaches. Train smartphone station navigation

Busy - Places you will seldom be alone, especially map for scan

at weekends. Good routes and easy access. A Roads Lancashire Crowded - The most popular sections of the most Building popular crags which are always busy. Campsite Previous Guidebooks Previous Guidebook Footnote - New routes database routes - New IntroductionNorthern Limestone

The inclusion of a in this guidebook does not mean that you have a righta upon climb rightthe or access of to have you that mean not does guidebook this in area climbing a of inclusion The should be placed on and no reliance only reasons historical for recorded within this guide are The descriptions of routes it. Climbers of the climbs. assessment of the difficulty a fair set in this guide are The grades of the description. the accuracy to enough proficient are whether they judgment as to of a particular should use their own standard a route who attempt and distributors publisher The authors, judgment. and proper experience for This book is not a substitute that route. tackle parties, third or property climbers, arising or by, injury liability any for or damage caused to, of this book do not recognise safety. their own for on this guidebook as an assurance seeking reliance such persons from Non Rockfax/UKC web-based route information route web-based Non Rockfax/UKC theleedswall.co.uk - Ron Kenyon, Kenyon, - Ron Lakes Limestone and South Valley Eden Holden (FRCC 2012) Wharton, John Nick Nigel Baker Musgrove, - Dave Limestone Yorkshire (YMC 2005) Mark Chris Craggs, Alan James, - Northern Limestone 2004) (Rockfax Glaister Cronshaw Ainsworth, Dave - Les Lancashire Rock (BMC 1999) (YMC 1992) Musgrove - Dave Limestone Yorkshire 1990) (Rockfax Ryan - Mick Limestone Yorkshire West in Lancashire and the North Climbs Rock 1987) (Cicerone Cronshaw Dave - Phil Kelly, (YMC 1985) Desroy - Graham Limestone Yorkshire lancashirerock.co.uk - Online guidebook and access information route frcc.co.uk - New and Route Information Route and Cumbria and Lancashire Yorkshire, of areas The limestone the 1960s. since documented been have on worked all those who have to very grateful are We below. listed are books The key guidebooks. previous Key Previous Guidebooks Previous Key 10 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Previous Guidebooks pitches atthe CaveRouteArea, Gordale. Photo:Mike Hutton 234 -oneofa host ofmagnificentand atmosphericsport Chris Goremidwayon thesustainedDefcon3(8a)-page Northern Limestone Northern 11

Lancashire South Cumbria Loup Scar and Troller's Gill Arncliffe to Kilnsey Malham and Gordale Giggleswick Area Ingleborough Area Page 31 Page Back cover flap cover Back Page 2 Page Page 29 Page 17 Page Page 33 Page Page 39 Page cover Inside front Page 23 Page Page 25 Page Page 21 Page joe-brown.com Outdoor Shops Outdoor cover - Inside back BouldersUK bouldersuk.com - Browns Joe Climbing Walls Walls Climbing Walls - Awesome awesomewalls.co.uk - Climbingcentres.co.uk climbingcentres.co.uk - Lakeland Climbing Centre kendalwall.co.uk - Wall The Equipment ManufacturersEquipment - Arc'teryx arcteryx.com cover - Outside back Diamond Black blackdiamondequipment.com Alpine Lowe - marmot.com - theleedswall.co.uk Rockfax is very grateful to the following following the to very is grateful Rockfax supported this have who advertisers guidebook: lowealpine.com - Mammut mammut.ch - Marmot rab.uk.com - Scarpa scarpa.co.uk 35 - Page Tenaya tenaya.net Acknowledgements IntroductionNorthern Limestone

Mark Glaister, December 2014 Glaister, Mark production of this guidebook. production Alan James and the UKC/Rockfax team on the team and the UKC/Rockfax Alan James It has as ever been a pleasure to work with to been a pleasure It has as ever Marti Hallett, Steve Thexton, Brenda Hempton. Brenda Thexton, Marti Steve Hallett, Crowe, Chris Lockyer, Nigel Baker, Paul Clarke, Clarke, Paul Nigel Baker, Chris Lockyer, Crowe, Bridget Collier, Arran Deacon, Fraser Harle, Steve Harle, Steve Deacon, Fraser Arran Bridget Collier, Sharples, Jack Geldard, Nicki Johnson, Neil Binns, Neil Binns, Johnson, Nicki Geldard, Sharples, Jack this guidebook - Mike Hutton, Tim Glasby, Keith Keith Glasby, Tim Hutton, this guidebook - Mike that make such a big contribution to the appeal of to such a big contribution that make been the subjects of the superb portfolio of shots A huge thanks to all those who have taken and taken all those who have A huge thanks to

information and advice. information chapters, and to Paul Clarke for lots of excellent lots of excellent for Clarke Paul and to chapters, their help on the Kilnsey, Gordale and Malham and Malham Gordale their help on the Kilnsey, Magog who have made a huge contribution with a huge contribution made Magog who have I am especially grateful to Steve Crowe and Karin and Karin Crowe Steve to grateful I am especially Mari Cole, Sal Wheatley. Wheatley. Sal Mari Cole, Jeffs, Steve McClure, Tom Abram, Rob Greenwood, Greenwood, Rob Abram, Tom McClure, Steve Jeffs, Andrea Stimson, , Ali Wood, Adam Adam Wood, Ali Creamer, Stimson, Lucy Andrea Soper, Bev Jowatt, Paul Cox, Jeremy Wilson, Wilson, Jeremy Cox, Paul Jowatt, Bev Soper, Musgrove, Nigel Baker, Glyn Edwards, Angela Edwards, Glyn Nigel Baker, Musgrove, Allen, Bridget Collier, Neil Binns, Paul Clarke, Dave Dave Clarke, Paul Neil Binns, Allen, Bridget Collier, Rosy Klinkenberg, Lisa Ogden, Mick Theaker, Clive Clive Theaker, Mick Lisa Ogden, Klinkenberg, Rosy Rooms, Gabi Rooms, Jay Astbury, Chris Savage, Chris Savage, Astbury, Jay Gabi Rooms, Rooms, Ian Cooksey, Marti Hallett, Debbie Roberts, Marc Roberts, Marc Debbie Marti Hallett, Ian Cooksey, Buys, Naomi Buys, Jon Freeman, Stephen Leahy, Leahy, Stephen Freeman, Jon Buys, Naomi Buys, Chris Gore, Neil McCallum, Matt Troilett, Jordan Jordan Troilett, Matt Neil McCallum, Chris Gore, Crowe, Karin Magog, Steve Dunning, Neil Mawson, Neil Mawson, Dunning, Steve Magog, Karin Crowe, Limestone - Arran Deakin, Adam Lincoln, Steve Steve Lincoln, Adam Deakin, Arran - Limestone me put together this second edition of Northern second edition of this me put together Acknowledgements helped have who all the people thank to like I would 12 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Acknowledgements with ahost oftradlines,thebest ofwhichareinthe Severe toE3gradespan. (HS 4b)-page363 -atWitches' Quarry. isafinelittle crag Witches'Quarry Bridget CollierandRosy Klinkenbergonthesteeplittletradcrack ofCracklap Northern Limestone Northern 13

Lancashire South Cumbria Loup Scar and Troller's Gill Arncliffe to Kilnsey Malham and Gordale Giggleswick Area Ingleborough Area

Logistics Northern Limestone 14 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire at Gordale, oneoftheUK'sfinest sportclimbs. the lowersection ofSupercool midsummer conditionsforworkingout Perfect (8a+) - page 233- 15

Lancashire South Cumbria Loup Scar and Troller's Gill Arncliffe to Kilnsey Malham and Gordale Giggleswick Area Ingleborough Area 9 5 1 Dec 8 7 3 Nov 9 6 11 Oct 7 9 yorkshire.com, 15 Sep 8 11 18 Aug 7 10 18 Jul 8 8 16 Jun 6 6 13 May 3 7 10 Apr 7 2 9 Mar Mountain RescueMountain 6 1 6 Feb yorkshirenet.co.uk 5 1 10 Jan Northern Logistics Limestone In the event of an accident requiring the assistance of Mountain Rescue: of Mountain the assistance requiring of an accident event In the Dial 112 and ask for ‘POLICE - MOUNTAIN RESCUE' MOUNTAIN ‘POLICE - ask for and Dial 112 'Mountain Rescue' will immediately redirect you to people who know the area well. the area know people who to you redirect will immediately Rescue' 'Mountain could be a long way from your current location. This can cause delays in the rescue rescue in the can cause delays This location. current your from long way could be a procedure as the authorities try and track down where the injured party is. Asking for for Asking party injured the where as the authorities down try is. procedure and track

Temperature ˚C Temperature

This is very important since just asking for 'Police' will redirect you to a switchboard which a switchboard to you will redirect This is very 'Police' importantasking for since just Average Min Temp (˚C) Temp Min Average Average Max Temp (˚C) Temp Max Average Average Rain Days/Month Rain Average In Lancashire, Trowbarrow Quarry can often be climbed on in the winter months once the be climbed on in the winter Quarry can often Trowbarrow In Lancashire, Trow Gill and Stony Bank - or windy narrow defiles - such as Gordale and Troller's Gill. Troller's and - such as Gordale defiles Bank - or windy narrow Gill and Stony Trow even in heavy rain. A few of the crags can be cold being either higher in altitude - such as of the crags A few rain. in heavy even the spring then climbing on the steep crags, such as Kilnsey and Malham, is often possible possible and Malham, is often Kilnsey such as crags, the spring then climbing on the steep can offer good conditions year round when it is not raining. Once seepage has dried up in when it is not raining. round good conditions year can offer crags that suffer less from seepage, such as Robin Proctor's Scar and Giggleswick South, Scar and Giggleswick Proctor's such as Robin seepage, less from that suffer crags autumn can mean that suntraps like Malham stay in condition into the winter months. Other months. the winter in condition into Malham stay like autumn can mean that suntraps until the autumn rain arrives and the big limestone crags start to suffer from seepage. A dry seepage. from start suffer crags to and the big limestone arrives until the autumn rain When to Go to When season on Northern the climbing the most hardy spring early all but runs from Limestone For are located at Malham and at Grassington. located are Centres Dales National Park Yorkshire . Tel: 01200 425566 01200 Tel: Clitheroe. , at information-britain.co.uk tips are and other travel information More Road, Station possible to include in these pages. include in these pages. to possible TIC - Clitheroe a look at the Tourist Information Centres. They contain a lot more useful information than it is useful information a lot more contain They Centres. Information Tourist a look at the tourist-information-uk.com, 582394 01524 Tel: Meeting House Lane. If you are short of ideas about what to do on a wet day or need some accommodation, take take or need some accommodation, short day do on a wet are about what to If you of ideas The Storey, Lancaster - only option is to walk to higher ground. to walk option is to only Centres Park and National Centres Information Tourist 735891 01539 Tel: - 25 Stramongate. Cogar, Stony Bank and Trow Gill where coverage can be intermittent. In an emergency the In an emergency can be intermittent. coverage Gill where Trow Bank and Stony Cogar, 825192 01729 Tel: Hall, Cheapside. Town - Settle the major networks. The exceptions are enclosed and isolated places such as Gordale, Yew Yew such as Gordale, places enclosed and isolated are The exceptions the major networks. 792809 01756 Tel: Hall, High Street. Town - Skipton Mobile Phones across good mobile phone coverage The majority described of the crags book have in this 16 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Advert p.168 Hellifield p.156 p.164 Attermire Scar Attermire (694m) Pen-y-ghent p.97 Langcliffe Area Long Preston Castleberg Crag Castleberg Hull Pot p.87 Stainforth A65 B6479 Settle

Moughton Nab Pennine p.78 Getting Around The starting points for all are the crags to approaches car and the by reached easily written descriptions are approach a access to have assuming you a car then don't have If you car. access by to the easiest crags transport Castleberg public are South, Malham Giggleswick Crag, and Kilnsey. Giggleswick p.82 Getting Around and Map and Getting Around Crummackdale Hortonin 36 M6 p.359 A65 Panorama Crag Panorama Burton in Kendal A590 Pot Scar p.100 Kendal Giggleswick South Giggleswick p.124 Campsite A591 Woodend Woodend Barrow Scout Cove Scout Barrow p.344

Austwick Lancashire Giggleswick NorthGiggleswick p.108 Clapham Mill Side Scar (724m) Campsite Robin Proctor's Scar Proctor's Robin p.70 p.44 Gibraltar Farm Ingleborough Ingleborough Trowbarrow Quarry Trowbarrow p.352 Scout Scar Scout p.326 Trow Gill Trow p.56 A590 p.346 Twistleton Scar Twistleton Lindale

Newby Cumbria Campsite Grange- over-Sands p.332 Chapel Head Scar Humphrey Head Humphrey Moorgarth Farm Northern Logistics Limestone B6255 A65 Lake Windermere Lake B6480 Campsite 36 High Fellgate Ingleton Newby Bridge About 5km About Allithwaite

Flookburgh Junction on M6 - 20km 18 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Malham Satellite Navigation Kendal canallbereached by train. For timetable information goto thetrainline.com Trains - The towns andvillagesofSkipton, , Giggleswick, Clapham,Grange and of bus services. The tourist information centres are alsousefulfor travel information. Buses -thewebsite traveline.infoisanexcellent placeto getaquick ideaoflinksandtimes direct into theGoogle Mapsnavigation apponyour phone. as QR codeshave also beenincluded. You canscan theQRcodeusinganapp such these numbers inalternative formats. p.252 Yew Cogar GPS Kirkby

-2.154509 Scan (for iOS)orGoogleGoggles (for Android) andchooseto openthe result 54.060178 Yorkshire

Langscar Pennine Way Pennine Campsite Riverside p.216 Malham Cove Comb Hill Crag Hill Comb All the parking spotsareAll theparking indicated withaprecise GPSlocation. This is in theform of two decimalnumbersof two asin thesampleblue box. Different GPSdevices accept Getting AroundGetting andMap Arncliffe p.184 Gargrave and and Gargrave p.217 Stony Bank Stony A65 Gordale House House Gordale Gordale Scar p.238 Campsite p.218 Blue Scar Hetton p.258 Kilnsey B6265 Rylstone B6160 Threshfield Northern Limestone Logistics Northern Knipe Scar Cracoe Conistone p.275 Kilnsey p.276 Great Grassington (704m) Dib Scar Dib p.302 p.312 Loup Scar Loup Burnsall Hebden Bolton Abbey Campsite Masons About 5km B6265 p.316 Troller's Gill B6160 Appletreewick

19 scan for map for scan

Lancashire South Cumbria Loup Scar and Troller's Gill Arncliffe to Kilnsey Malham and Gordale Giggleswick Area Ingleborough Area Accommodation The beautiful campsite at Gordale is only minutes from the crag. from the crag. only minutes at Gordale is campsite The beautiful Northern Logistics Limestone

Good for most of the South Cumbria crags. Pubs in . highfellgate.co.uk in Cartmel. Pubs most of the South Cumbria crags. Good for - Cartmel Road, Cartmel. Tel: 015395 36231 015395 Tel: Cartmel. - Cartmel Road, Camping Park Gate High Good pubs locally and close to Trowbarrow Quarry. gibfarm.weebly.com Quarry. Trowbarrow and close to Good pubs locally - Silverdale. Tel: 01524 701736 01524 Tel: Camping - Silverdale. Farm Gibraltar Well positioned for northwestern crags. A 20 minute walk to the pub. the pub. to walk A 20 minute northwestern for positioned crags. Well - New Road, Ingleton. Tel: 015242 41428 015242 Tel: Ingleton. Road, - New Campsite Moorgarth Farm a slightly larger site next door if it is full. woodendcampsite.co.uk door if it is full. next site larger a slightly Well positioned for northwestern crags. A 15 minute walk to the pub. A small site but there is there but A small site the pub. to walk minute A 15 northwestern for positioned crags. Well - Woodend Farm, Austwick. Tel: 015242 51296 015242 Tel: Austwick. Farm, Woodend - Campsite Woodend be busy. A 20 minute walk to pub. No groups. Telephone bookings only - 01729 830333. - 01729 bookings only Telephone No groups. pub. to walk A 20 minute be busy. - A lovely site, next to the beck and very close to Gordale, although it can Gordale, and very close to the beck to next site, A lovely House - Gordale during holiday periods. Telephone bookings only - 01729 830287. - 01729 bookings only Telephone periods. during holiday the way to Malham Cove. An excellent position for the crag and pub but can get very busy can get very busy and pub but the crag position for An excellent Malham Cove. to the way - Town Head Farm, Malham. Located on the outskirts Located of the village on Malham. Head Farm, Town Camping - Riverside Loup Scar. masonscampsite.co.uk Loup Scar. Appletreewick. It is close to a good pub and handy for Troller's Gill, Dib Scar, Kilnsey and Kilnsey Gill, Dib Scar, Troller's a good pub and handy for is close to It Appletreewick. - Located on the Burnsall to Appletreewick Road, just before just before Road, Appletreewick on the Burnsall - Located to Masons Campsite most popular with climbers. They are shown on the map on page 18. on the map shown are They most popular with climbers. There are many campsites within easy reach of the crags but those listed below are the are below those listed but of the crags reach within easy campsites many are There Camping - Malham, Kettlewell, Ingleton and Arnside. yha.org.uk Arnside. and Ingleton - Malham, Kettlewell, Hostels Youth areas. More information can be gained from the tourist information centres. information the tourist from can be gained information More areas. Cottages, Bed and Breakfast, hotels, caravans and bunkhouses are all widely available in the available all widely are and bunkhouses caravans hotels, and Breakfast, Bed Cottages, Not Camping 20 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Advert Pubs - Settle. - Settle. Arms Talbot Now route? the Ticked food. beer and Great the pub. tick - Giggleswick. Horse The Black beer. and Old-style food pub with good Cock The Game - Austwick. and beer. food excellent village pub with Fine the northwestClose to crags. - near Ingleton. Hotel Arms The Marton from Not far rural pub with food. Busy Scar. Twistleton The Old Hill Inn - Chapel-le-Dale. Scar. Twistleton Good pub close to The - Strawberry Bank. Masons Arms Superb Head Scar. Chapel from minutes Ten at weekends. can be very busy but The Wheatsheaf - Brigsteer. good food. Scout Scar and with Close to A Kendal. Arts Brewery - Highgate, Centre the Home to and beer. with food venue lively Festival. Mountain Kendal Pubs Lancashire - Downham. Arms Assheton from pub in unspoilt hamlet not far Lovely and beer. food Fine Quarry. Witches' The Albion - Arnside. the of sunsets over spot with views A busy far Not too estuary the beer terrace. from Quarry. Trowbarrow from Conyers. Yealand Inn - The New Trowbarrow. A good small pub close to Cumbria Pubs Cumbria Climbing Walls Climbing Northern Logistics Limestone

atmosphere. On the main road in the town. On the main road atmosphere. Slightly unusual interior but with a good but interior unusual Slightly - Settle. The Lion - Settle. Large pub with decent beer and grub. Large - Malham. Inn - Malham. The Buck out in good weather. Nice beer garden/lawn at the front for sitting sitting for at the front Nice beer garden/lawn - Malham. The - Malham. Arms Lister Blue Scar and Yew Cogar. Yew Blue Scar and Woolpack Inn in Emmerdale Farm. Close to Close to Farm. Inn in Emmerdale Woolpack Old-school country pub. The original Old-school country pub. - Arncliffe. Inn The Falcon - Arncliffe. short drive from Blue Scar and Yew Cogar. Yew short Blue Scar and from drive A traditional pub with good beer and food. A pub with good beer and food. A traditional - Litton. The - Litton. Queens Arms road from Kilnsey and Knipe Scar. Kilnsey from road Near the church in the village. Just up the Just in the village. Near the church - Kettlewell. King's Head - Kettlewell. A couple of minutes walk from Kilnsey Crag. Kilnsey from walk A couple of minutes - Kilnsey. - Kilnsey. Arms The Tennant south Wharfedale. from A friendly and convenient stop-off on the way on the way stop-off and convenient A friendly - Cracoe. - Cracoe. Arms The Devonshire Wharfedale with good food and beer. with good food Wharfedale Handy roadside pub on the way home from home from pub on the way Handy roadside - Threshfield. The Old Hall Inn - Threshfield. good beer and food. Close to Troller's Gill and a campsite with with Gill and a campsite Troller's Close to - Appletreewick. Arms The - Appletreewick. the river. Handy for Loup Scar. Loup Handy for the river. Has a nice garden at the back overlooking overlooking at the back garden Has a nice - Burnsall. Lion - Burnsall. The Red by this book. this book. by Yorkshire Pubs Yorkshire covered in the areas pubs many are There The Lister Arms at Malham. 22 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Advert Page 31 Page Back cover flap cover Back Page 29 Page - S Cafe On the main street. Cafe The Heron - On the Promenade. 721766 01539 Tel. Kendal. Mint Bridge Road, kendalwall.co.uk Shop Wall The Leeds 2341554 0113 Tel: Leeds. Road, Gelderd 100a theleedswall.co.uk Cumbria Cafes Cumbria Cafe Wilf's - Staveley the river. by Yard, In the Mill Grange-over-Sands Shops Climbing and Crag Cave 823877 01729 Tel: Settle. Place, Market cave-crag.co.uk Climbing Centre Harrogate Harrogate. Avenue, Hornbeam Park 815024 01423 Tel: harrogateclimbingcentre.com Inglesport 41146 015242 Tel: Ingleton. The Square, 11 inglesport.com The Lakeland Climbing Centre - Ye Olde Naked Man Cafe. Man Cafe. Olde Naked Ye - Settle Excellent. of Settle. In the centre - CoffeeEco. Grassington in the village. street On the main Malham - Old Barn Cafe. the village. when entering On the left Cafe. Clapham - Croft In the village centre. - InglesportIngleton Cafe. Ingleton. The Square, and shop in At the wall Hall. Gill - Parcevall Troller's the parking the bridge spots. from over Just at parked wagon is a good tea There - Gordale during the summer months. Gordale Yorkshire Cafes Yorkshire Climbing Walls, Cafes and Shops and Cafes Walls, Climbing Page 31 Page Back cover flap cover Back Page 2 Page Page 29 Page ›fi— ›fi‡— ›fi‡— ›fi‡— kendalwall.co.uk Tel: 0113 2341554 0113 Tel: Tel: 0114 2446622 0114 Tel: Tel: 01539 721766 01539 Tel: Tel: 01423 815024 01423 Tel: Northern Limestone theleedswall.co.uk awesomewalls.co.uk Garter Street, Sheffield. Garter Sheffield. Street, Walls Awesome Mint Bridge Road, Kendal. Kendal. Mint Bridge Road, The Leeds Wall 100a Gelderd Road, Leeds. Road, Gelderd 100a harrogateclimbingcentre.com harrogateclimbingcentre.com Large dedicated climbing centre. dedicated Large Large dedicated climbing centre. dedicated Large Large dedicated climbing centre. dedicated Large Large dedicated climbing centre. dedicated Large Hornbeam Park Avenue, Harrogate. Avenue, Hornbeam Park

The Lakeland Climbing Centre

Climbing Centre Harrogate ROKT Climbing Gym ROKT 893710 01422 Tel: Brighouse. Road, Mill Royd rokt.co.uk Lancaster Wall University 510600 01524 Tel: University. Lancaster sportscentrelancaster.co.uk Ingleton Climbing Barn Ingleton 241146 01524 Tel: Ingleton. The Square, 11 inglesport.com The Climbing Depot 3459295 0113 Tel: Leeds. Lane, Richardshaw 173 theclimbingdepot.com BoulderUK 693056 01254 Tel: . Street, Heaton 10a boulderuk.info ukclimbing.com/walls/ Climbing Walls Climbing on when climbing year times of rare those For climbing the following isn't possible, limestone worth well considering. are walls at information More 24 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Advert

Climbing Northern Limestone Limestone 26 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Mussles Naomi Buys cuttinglooseonthe uniqueGreenLipped (7c) - page 226-atGordale. Photo:MikeHutton 27

Lancashire South Cumbria Loup Scar and Troller's Gill Arncliffe to Kilnsey Malham and Gordale Giggleswick Area Ingleborough Area Access Northern Climbing Limestone There are some restrictions at certain some restrictions are times so There 'Restrictions' the red a look out for please keep

('Conservation' menu). ('Conservation' - frcc.co.uk website and FRCC - thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ website 445 6111), or check the access section of the BMC the access section or check 445 6111), restrictions. If in any doubt contact the BMC (Tel: 0161 0161 the BMC (Tel: doubt contact If in any restrictions. and take great care not to infringe these necessary not to care great and take chapters. Please read this information carefully carefully this information Please read chapters. Individual crag access is covered in the respective in the respective access is covered Individual crag Blue Scar. will need to seek permission before you even go to go to even you seek permissionwill need to before precise parking and approach requirements while you while you requirements parking and approach precise of February to the end of July. Other crags have very have Other crags the end of July. of February to birds and the dates generally range from the beginning from range generally and the dates birds symbol (left). These are usually because of nesting because usually These are (left). symbol currently have good access arrangements. good access arrangements. have currently the BMC and its volunteers, all the crags in this book all the crags the BMC and its volunteers, conflict. Despite this, and thanks to the great work of great to the and thanks this, Despite conflict. drilling, path erosion and parking have also caused parking and have erosion path drilling, disagreements in the past. Other issues such as Other in the past. disagreements gardening and dogs have all been causes for causes for all been and dogs have gardening nesting birds, flora, historical sites, land ownership, ownership, land sites, historical flora, nesting birds, of Yorkshire, Cumbria and Lancashire. Clashes over over Clashes Cumbriaand Lancashire. Yorkshire, of always been access issues on the limestone crags crags the limestone access issues on been always Access have UK there in the areas most climbing As with Robert Armitstead at the top of Twistleton Scar with the mighty Ingleborough in the background. Robert Armitstead belaying at the top of Twistleton X 28 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Advert 30 Northern Limestone Climbing Gear and Bolting Gear Ingleborough Area Most of the sport routes described in this book have good solid bolts and lower-offs in place. For the vast majority of routes a 60m rope and 14 is sufficient to climb them. However there are a number of lines that will require a longer rope to get down (and probably more quickdraws). To avoid any doubt, always tie a stopper knot in the dead end of the rope to ensure that it will not pass through the . The traditional routes are best climbed on double ropes and are protected with a standard rack of wires, cams and slings. Many of the harder traditional climbs also rely on fixed threads

Giggleswick AreaGiggleswick and pegs. All fixed gear should be treated with caution because many of the pegs and threads are old and at times might be the only protection available.

Bolting The work of maintaining the bolts has been carried out by many individuals and has been a huge task. If you come across any routes that need re-equipping then please submit your comments to the databases on either - rockfax.com or theleedswall.co.uk. Malham and Gordale Malham The Yorkshire Fund The Yorkshire Bolt Fund has been running since 1996 and Yorkshire Limestone now has arguably the best quality bolting of any area in Britain. Virtually all the old 1980s ironmongery has been replaced and, since around 2004, virtually all new

Arncliffe to Kilnsey routes have been equipped with bolt-fund equipment of best-quality stainless steel. There is still work to be done on upgrading lower-offs and some of the old bolts on less fashionable harder routes. And of course new lines continue to be found on overlooked places like High Stony Bank which has seen a huge rise in

Loup and Scar Troller's Gill popularity over the last couple of years. Negotiations are also under way for permission to climb in several recently decommissioned quarries which if/when forthcoming will entail considerable expense in new equipment. All voluntary donations are appreciated. Bob 'the route builder' Larkin at work on High Stony Bank. Photo: Dave Musgrove Cumbria Bolt Fund The Cumbria Bolt Fund was formed to help with the replacement of protection bolts and lower-offs throughout Cumbria. Many of these bolts were placed up to 20 years ago and need South CumbriaSouth replacing. More details are available on the website - cumbriaboltfund.co.uk

If you enjoy the sport routes in this book then consider donating an evening's beer money to the Yorkshire Bolt Fund or the Cumbria Bolt Fund. You can find the links to their PayPal pages via UKBoltFund.org. Proceeds from some of the sales of this guidebook will go towards these two funds. Lancashire

Support local bolting volunteers Advert 32 YorkshireNorthern Limestone ClimbingIntroduction Grades

The routes in this book are given one Ingleborough Area of two different grades depending on British Trad Grade whether they are a trad route or a sport route. The table to the right roughly compares the sport and trad grade with two other international grading systems. On trad routes the majority of the gear is carried by the lead climber and is

Giggleswick AreaGiggleswick hand-placed. A sport route is defined as one where all the major protection comes from gear fixed in the rock (bolts).

British Trad Grade 1) Adjectival grade (Diff, VDiff, Malham and Gordale Malham Severe, Hard Severe (HS), Very Severe (VS), Hard Very Severe (HVS), E1, E2 ... to E10). An overall picture of the route including how well protected it is, how sustained and a general indication of the level of difficulty of the whole route.

Arncliffe to Kilnsey 2) Technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c ... to 7b). The difficulty of the hardest single move, or short section.

Sport Grade The sport grade is a measure of how hard it is going to be to get up a certain Loup and Scar Troller's Gill section of rock. It makes no attempt to tell you how hard the hardest move is, nor how scary a route is.

Colour Coding The routes are all given a colour-coded dot corresponding to a grade band. The colour represents a level that a climber should be happy at, hence sport routes tend to be technically harder than the equivalent coloured trad routes because the climber doesn't need to worry

South CumbriaSouth about the protection. 1 Up to Severe / Up to 4+ Mostly these should be good for beginners and those wanting an easy life. 2 HS to HVS / 5 to 6a+ General ticking routes for those with more experience. 3 E1 to E3 / 6b to 7a

Lancashire Routes for the experienced and keen climber. A grade band which includes many of the area's great classics. 4 E4 or 7a+ and above The really hard stuff including some of the top sport routes in the country. Advert 53 55 54 52 54 55 51 55 53 80 99 55 80 55 80 47 80 80 110 176 176 176 103 104 104 104 104 105 210 103 104 103 314 172 215 215 128 214 213 214 172 212 171 214 355 356 366 308 293 364 356 365 356 354 207 355 355 227 365 356 260 364 364 363 355 356 365 ...... HS S VDiff HVS VS E1 ...... Sickness Sleeping Actor Cracked ...... Witchcraft . . . . BornNatural Runners The Diedre . . . Lapper...... Ivy Buttress Thrutch Thornton Wall Direct Sickle Harijan...... Off Peel Nirvana Addiction ...... Overdose ...... Sickle Swingover Sea Coral Moonshine...... Breakaway Star Evening Jomo Witch Bane Witch ...... Jeanie Jean The Pusher Curving...... Crack ...... Arete Sickle ...... Matador Serenity...... Clubfoot ...... Wall Terrace . . . . . Veil The Long Black ...... Priority Sir Loin . . . Sunspot...... Javelin Cabaret Carnage Left-hand ...... Crucible Aladdinsane...... Direct Proddle Potholers' ...... L.S.D You Some Blue For . . . . . The Older Generation Niagra Wall Direct Hare's Prest On Up...... Prest Junkyard Angel Junkyard ...... Wall Kirkby Superiority...... Pink Clare Little Fat Sausage . . East Wall Route/Crossbones Light...... Red ...... The Kylin Mort's Crack Spellbound The Candle ...... Fall Familiar's Assagai Brimstone ...... Wall Pikedaw EarthHollow Yellow Mellow Venus Olympus Wall Hare's ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 54 54 80 81 54 111 174 174 174 174 174 210 210 210 210 210 129 212 213 213 129 126 126 126 212 214 227 204 261 289 348 356 356 228 207 289 337 207 261 293 261 340 261 260 354 293 228 289 257 209 256 223 202 261 233 229 263 297 273 364 285 337 209 242 221 305 366 261 207 358 228 282 Trad Graded List Graded Trad ...... E2 E3 E4 Meggazones Power Wave Direct Quite Gorgon Barrier Cream The Trip Olympus Blue Band Geranium Perverted Trigger Finger Trigger Go Johnny Go...... Go Johnny Major Tom of Class...... Touch A Light...... Main Overhang Carnage...... Sundance Wall ...... Brothers ...... Crossbones Comer Butcher's Dog Slender Loris...... Moonchild ...... Butch Cassidy The Blue Beat...... Wall Central The Kill Android Blue Grit Hell's Teeth A Sense of Doubt ...... in Collision Worlds Speeding. . . . . Technically Prince of Darkness Prince ...... As Fit Powerplay Limehill Bustin' the Block Three Wishes Three ...... Centrespread . . . Than Funky Monkey More The Shootist of Errors Comedy ...... Second Coming Pleasures Unknown the Blue Bolts from More ...... Liberation ...... Wombat Brutus . . . . . Direct Sword Broad Bad Brain in High Places Friends Sword Broad ...... Breather Heavy Power Pinch Power is Coming Valdez Test Acid Doll Waxen Dodger Direct ...... Dagger Mutton Lunatic...... Midnight Cowboy Wind and Wuthering the 13th Friday Oedipus...... Route Face ...... Wall Central One The Dark Unreal ...... Wall Mulatto Attack Swift Express Nova Pitch 1. . . . Amber Gambler ...... Value Full ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 210 210 213 314 207 228 209 287 281 230 229 204 285 223 290 221 263 287 265 234 263 263 223 290 263 263 264 293 293 221 281 263 223 209 228 358 355 293 263 299 209 255 223 282 287 282 263 255 221 227 293 223 265 299 264 233 221 264 233 226 209 256 221 234 ...... Yorkshire Limestone Logistics Limestone Yorkshire Northern Climbing Limestone ...... E5 E6 E8 E7 Wild West West Hero Wild Deliverance El Coronel Meets the Hulk. . Pumpwater Balas...... The Superdirectissima Solstice ...... Redemption Direct Gorgon ...... Birdmen King Rat Picnic on Hanging Rock Chasing the Dragon Nothing to Declare Nothing to The Asylum Hammerhead...... Blue Angel...... Relax of the Dance The Lord Bliss...... Blue...... True . . . . . Heaven to Stairway . The Ugly The Bad and The Good, Exponential Exhaustion. . . . Death Wish . . . White Death Blue Water, . . . . . Division of Labour. Rushin' White Garden The Cement Blood Wise Barracuda The Unforgiven Amber Nectar Delivertoad Exequy Jungle Concrete ...... Claws Priapism The Overlap Fades Dawn New Torqueture Yew Doubting Thomas (Malham) ...... Rebel ...... Value Face ...... Wall Dihedral Deja Vu ...... Wall Central Happy Birthday to Yew Birthday to Happy Darkness Beckons Darkness High Octane Dead Man Walking . . . . . Something Borrowed Nisus...... of Desire The Professor Guadaloupe...... Right-hand. . . . Route Cave Nisi Decree The White Great ...... Masochism Tango Kiss Alien Water Greystoke ...... Power Staying Mossdale Trip Hangman......

These graded lists cover most of cover lists graded These have They routes. 3 star the 2 and a variety of from been compiled online votes including the sources and Rockfax. with UKC registered ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 34 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Advert 61 64 59 98 59 60 99 59 59 89 64 65 95 59 60 60 67 64 68 119 114 181 159 191 133 314 195 148 319 197 318 194 191 159 315 319 318 285 342 340 287 224 233 224 340 340 338 282 287 337 341 339 337 285 234 242 249 345 234 338 202 348 341 304 299 340 256 ...... 7b 7b+ Pantomime ...... Frenzy Petulant of Opulence. . . . . Extremes The Deep . . . . . of Excellence Pursuit Hoodlum Priest Lost In Thought and Lost... Thought Lost In . Snapper...... Red ...... Videodrome ...... Perineum Stretchy . . . Kilnsey to Comes Frankie Naked ...... Revival . . . . . Goes Time the Where ...... Europe A Song for Ecstasy Hardcore Electric Warrior Guided Muscle Games More Games More Bongo Fury . . Path Mid-air Collision/Flight Silent Laughter ...... Wyrd Wetterstein ...... Youth Wasted Hoodoo Guru...... Visitation ...... Forces Market Country ...... Far Brew Witches Thug's Life It's a Ocean Blue...... Pulsar Stan Super Dupont ...... Space Race Ears Pricky Tricky Shoals...... Moseley Effect Ground Wall Trowgerbirge Air. . . . . of Fresh A Breath The ArtsDark Blue Algae Green of Good...... A Power Hung Well Jocasta Turkey Cold Wynd The Wizard's Diagon Alley Aardvark Seventh the Space...... Taking ...... Cliptomania ...... Countach Out...... Cop Dogpoint ...... Illywacker . . Path True Head/The Eraser ...... Mackerel Muted ...... Obsession Met.... Hymen Humphrey Crack Central Haslam The Fish and the Scales. . . The Fish ...... WYSIWYG ...... Wargames Ride...... Knuckle White a Bruisin'Cruisin'. . . . . for ...... Spent Youth ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 65 60 68 115 119 191 191 192 318 192 120 192 192 194 191 191 191 318 192 226 290 341 297 281 285 256 299 202 289 337 204 299 221 297 202 285 340 203 299 204 299 203 285 339 341 234 202 299 281 256 341 202 341 287 233 282 336 287 337 256 305 282 233 287 233 203 290 203 233 234 285 Sport List Graded ...... 7c 7c+ Just Not in Lust...... Just Basilisk Green Lipped Mussels Green Biological Need...... Tremelo Traveller Lonely . . . . . Dupont Super Duper Dominatrix...... GuruMetal ...... Comedy Grip Devil's Ernie...... Little ...... Bandwagon ...... Fuss Minimum ...... and Easy Free to... Jumping No More Smouldering Globules of Lust. Smouldering Globules Zone...... Phantom ...... Dawn New . . . . . Toads Serious Young with Jello Audience ...... Subculture The Thumb ...... Mirage Kleptomania of the Peace Breach The Bulge ...... Mr Hall. Calling ...... Recall Toadal The Thumb...... Over . . . . Continuity Conceptual Control Complete Baboo-Baboo Main Overhang . . . Hero Ain't No Sponsored I Guloot Kalagna Sunset Boulevard Doctor Evil...... Doctor Defcon 3 The Traveller Age New Dead Calm Vogue The Maximum a Gun With Man The Power and the Glory The Power Prime Evil Prime L'Ob Session...... Doctors Unrighteous Nice...... Mr. Eliminate Cave ...... Dreamtime Mighty Ass...... Fine Phone...... Zantom Henry's Route China Crisis...... Maboulisme Merveilleux Technik Durch Vorsprung The Gemini Incident N'Obsession The Ashes...... Left-hand Route Cave ...... The Tinderbox The Jekyll Masochism Strictly Herbie Option...... Zero ...... Mescalito Space Invaders Masochism Cool Strictly ...... Pierrepoint Tragedy ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 119 119 119 201 201 197 120 194 318 192 194 194 192 194 126 192 181 197 192 197 197 194 197 192 194 194 192 194 194 194 194 192 300 282 299 297 300 281 281 233 204 300 300 256 297 282 300 290 285 304 203 202 297 256 282 233 256 290 287 202 297 297 281 281 297 ...... Yorkshire Limestone Logistics Limestone Yorkshire Northern Climbing Limestone ...... 8a 8a+ 8b 8b+ 8c 8c+ 9a+ 9a Dr Crimp Dalliance Indian Summer Unjustified Magnetic North Tonto Ten Year Itch Year Ten Aladdin ...... La Connection ...... Finish Dunne Well ...... Showtime Stolen Huecool...... Magnetic Fields Oak Austrian ...... Predator Gravity Wicked Fixe The Quick Ecstasy Sensation Overnite Militia...... the Soul of Symbols Option Soft ...... Victorious Renaissance ...... Arete Grooved True North...... True ...... Cry Freedom Bat Route Ranger Power Accelerator . . . . . Connection La False . . . . Ripper. The Yorkshire Rabbit The Velveteen II...... Free Totally Conehead Climb of the Century...... Mid Ledge Spread ...... Action Urgent Niagara Out...... Pegged ...... The Groove Mandela...... Supercool Sculpture Love G.B.H...... The Puppeteer Last Action Hero ...... Raindogs Straightened Twisted ...... Local Roof Transform All Out...... Batman North Star ...... Rainshadow Northern...... Lights ...... Bat Shadow Progress Zoolook Steal Cold 4 Connect Overshadow King of Thieves

*** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω *** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω 36 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Cry Freedom(8c) Drew Haigh onCry - page 192-atMalham. Photo:KeithSharples 37

Lancashire South Cumbria Loup Scar and Troller's Gill Arncliffe to Kilnsey Malham and Gordale Giggleswick Area Ingleborough Area 74 74 75 93 93 67 75 66 92 67 111 117 114 122 166 158 137 154 163 147 160 143 154 143 145 166 143 166 166 143 137 143 131 159 149 154 154 329 270 270 267 307 267 271 270 273 271 270 273 ...... 6a+ 6a 5c 4 6b Subterranean Homesick Blues Homesick Subterranean ...... Born Again Cinemascope Beginnings. . . . . Bayleaf's ...... the Rails Off ...... Candles Four ...... Rising Passions One. . . . Economical Route Part 1. . . . Midge Repellent of Silence. . . Argument The Freeway Whooper Whine Nettle Dirty Harry...... Rising Damp Ardour and Harder Ardour Bonhomie (Re..) The Inertia Syndrome Swansong Desire Lang Time Coming Best Sunday on Fire Wheels ...... Direct Debbie Gardener The Constant Hall...... Victoria ...... Boogie Wonderland . . . Bears Teddy No Picnic for Hall Corner...... Town Silver Buttons Silver ...... Amical Rivalite Malheureuse ...... Camelot Diversion Festival Settle ...... Blue Rinse Fun Feline ...... Tusk Around Prowling ...... Bella Calcio in the Mist Drillers ...... Raiders Ramp Diagonal Direct Lazy Days ...... Swan The Mute Smart...... Summer Dark AB again Rip 'em off ...... Rising. Swan Black ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω 74 74 76 76 59 68 89 75 65 66 69 95 65 69 75 67 111 133 197 159 160 131 149 167 145 163 143 148 137 131 148 166 167 167 148 167 158 135 158 160 270 336 337 329 243 270 339 342 249 249 247 272 275 287 323 345 336 339 247 267 282 308 329 267 273 270 287 275 273 242 . . Sport List Graded ...... 6b+ 6c 6c+ Flake Out...... Flake House The Gingerbread Combat Plumber...... Combat ...... Un-Christened War of the Worlds of the War Brush ...... with a Goat Coronary Rose . . . . . of Steroids A Fistful Out Freak . . . . Rock on Black Bad Day The Big Picture . Understanding Environmental Child Wild Vain in Battle Gave On. . . . . Come On, Come Booth Connection Fone ...... Groove Black . and Bouncy Big Beaty, Meaty, Moonwalk Stone Cold Crazy Cold Stone Rib Tickler Not...... ye Titter Stone a Rolling Like ...... Town Witherslack ...... King Hard Tufa in Ribblesdale Burly Block Road Passing Train Slow Upper-hand Route Cave ...... Popmaster Fiddlefingers ...... Wood Norwegian Groove Ash Tree The Man Who Fell To Earth To Fell Who The Man Mi Vida . Loca...... Whispers Heavenly Optic Nerve ...... Inn...... The Maypole Arms The Talbot . . . . . Outdoors Castleberg The Whisperer Hoarse Champion Heavyweight The Measure of Things. . . . of The Measure 395 Highway ...... Block Writers' Cadillac The Folly . . . . . Overdrive Interstellar ...... Hyper-Tension Sender...... Return to Up Town Visionhurry ...... Midnight Brambler ...... Free Break The Directissima ...... Alick Open Road Forty Five Revived ...... Born Run to . . . . . Thyme of In the Nick Speaks The Sibyl Blue Blood...... Heat of the Moment Once Bitten The Shield...... Plan Marshall ...... Phase Two Case Candy's the Dog Walking ...... Test Drop ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω 74 74 76 65 95 65 68 85 67 66 68 95 95 68 59 69 133 159 167 191 319 194 159 191 166 318 159 191 195 315 167 159 198 319 197 319 159 177 177 166 275 275 269 272 272 331 289 273 305 289 336 307 340 337 348 247 338 272 320 249 272 339 204 234 269 338 341 243 337 330 247 269 ...... Northern Climbing Limestone ...... 7a 7a+ A Matter of Degrees A Matter . . . . The Chamber of Secrets Of Damocles Arch The Symphony Bucket Arc en Ciel...... Arc The Jim Grin ...... Out of Mind Time . . . . . Out of the Limelight ...... Direct D'Action . . and Safety Spot-on, Health . . Ivy League...... Option Extra Alternative The ...... the Grain Against Owner. . . . . One Previous ...... Sassenach Quiet Flight ...... Adults Consenting Dot Demon... A Nice Polka . . Arthur Concept Sowden The . . . . . Passion and Warfare ...... Night Final Late Head Cement Bootleg Bandits...... Pepere Perverse ...... Appetite Forever Young Forever ...... Panoramic and Crag Cave ...... Bleep and Booster Lands Distant and Treats Tricks Firing Squad Firing and Roll Rock Angelic Upstart Chance Fighting A Play of Light...... A Play Brutality...... Police Wall Yosemite The Borg Childhood's End Slap Happy Gilbert Cardigan Scary Mary Direct Barguest Duty ...... Constabulary ...... Eyes Paranoid Humour Gallows Free and Even Easier and Even Free Frankenstein Angel Delight...... Hartley Hare ...... Angel Dust The Last Waltz Pimp with a Limp...... All Evil of The Route ...... Rattletrap Hammer House of Horror . . . . . T'Inglesportonia Wall Touched by the Hand of Plod by Touched Burlesque ...... Space Monkey Offwithereds Slapping Beauty ...... Business Open for ...... Crimes of Passion with Quick-draws Whores . La Mangoustine Scatouflange Clink the Elegant for An Eye ...... Hero War ...... Talk Everything Practically

*** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 38 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Advert 44 56 70 78 82 86 97 216 217 218 238 252 258 275 276 302 312 316 326 332 344 346 352 359 360 100 108 124 156 164 168 184 Page Summary A long low wall with some very short sport pitches on good rock. Close to the road and parking. Exposed to the elements. sportAn atmospheric gorge with towering walls and some brilliant and hard trad routes. Popular with walkers. Sensitive access. in the 6 to 7 range. main sections of cliff that have sport climbs Two Popular but needs warmish weather as it is high up on the moor. Excellent rock and some good hard Isolated wall in a beautiful valley. sport routes. sport Beautiful set of walls with some brilliant hard trad and decent routes in the 6s and 7s. Very sensitive access requirements. those A small set of sport climbs on a long escarpment. Useful for looking for some peace and quiet if Kilnsey is busy. Steep A huge crag with magnificent sport climbing and some trad. and often dry although slow to come into condition. in the rain Secluded little valley with two good sections of rock and some decent sport and trad routes. Good in hot weather. A small crag but very steep with some short and hard sport routes. Above a popular river with a swimming area. An isolated dryvalley with one excellent wall plus some less river good additions. Mostly sport climbing. crag with a set of decent routes with a beautiful outlook West-facing across the Lake District. Nothing of real quality but worth a visit. A magnificent crag with brilliant routes in the higher grades. Immaculate rock and dry in the rain but slow to come into condition. A reasonable cliff with one good route worth calling in for. Small set of walls on a peninsular with some old sport routes. A good location but nothing of any real quality. A well-established trad venue with some outstanding crack-climbs. Often dry when raining in the nearby hills. routes. A minor sport crag with some short and fierce A lovely little quarry set on the side of Pendle Hill with plenty of trad routes from Severe to E3. Access is very sensitive. Beautiful views of Ingleborough and some of the best low and mid of the best and some views of Ingleborough Beautiful days. so best on warmer area. Exposed routes in the grade trad in and the crag A long walk sport routes. gorge with good A narrow in hot weather. come into condition but good takes a while to Lots of very drying popular grade 6s. Quick to the and exposed good weather. be climbed on year round given elements but can for the experienced trad lines on fine rock. Best Some enchanting outlook. Blessed with a sublime HVS/E1 leader. powerful crag with some lines on rock that A squat and super-steep in places. Parking is limited. needs careful handling for if looking for 5s and lower grade One of the better places to head there are plenty of them. 6s. The routes are not long but interesting sport and trad climbs Rarely frequented but holds some in. in an unusual setting. Best to abseil trad climbs. Only a short walk from Long time favourite for VS to E1 a cafe but free parking is limited. routes across the grades on clean A crag for all with excellent sport Hollywood Bowl. walls and in the extremely steep in the lower to mid grades. Some A huge number of sport climbs venue. A year-round Tier. good trad climbs also on the Upper sport climbs. The Skyline is an Lots of rock but only a few decent good routes. excellent natural crag with some Settle centre. It has become popular A convenient crag minutes from with care. but the rock needs to be handled crags that are veryThe area is dotted with lots of to the exposed trad and sport. elements. Many fine climbs both and trad Arguably the best limestone cliff in the UK with superb sport routes across the grade range. Often dry and sheltered. above Malham Cove. A small sport crag on the Pennine Way Selection of grade 6s on variable quality rock. tions X X X X X X X X Restric- pitch Multi- K K K Rain Dry in ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ered Shelt- $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Sun U R R { U U R T } U U U U U U } R U U R U U } U U R E E E E W W Faded symbol means that only some of the routes - are sheltered / are dry in the rain / are multi-pitch / are restricted / are dry multi-pitch / are / are in the rain sheltered - are routes some of the means that only symbol Faded 5 min 3 min 5 min 2 min 10 min 14 min 15 min 15 min 15 min 1 - 8 min 10 - 13 min 30 min 12 min 1 - 10 min 5 - 16 min 5 - 8 min 5 min 20 - 30 min 2 - 20 min 15 min 5 - 12 min 13 - 20 min 10 - 15 min 15 min 2 - 5 min 20 min 10 - 12 min 10 - 12 40 min 15 min 25 min 18 min 10 min Approach A S F S S S A A A S S S S F S S F F A F F F G S S S S S S S S S ------4 6 2 1 1 2 5 1 4 2 4 3 16 12 47 40 34 46 E4 and up E4 and -143 ------1 2 1 4 9 7 2 6 1 2 8 9 2 6 11 12 14 13 14 24 29 E1 to E3 E1 to ------9 2 6 3 5 3 7 12 17 24 21 33 40 HS to HVS HS to T R A D R O U T E S R O U T R A D ------2 4 1 5 1 7 1 1 1 22 Mod S to ------8 4 9 2 8 7 1 7 2 7 1 1 10 10 10 10 17 12 31 27 99 37 25 98 38 7a+ and 7a+ and up - - - - - 6 4 6 9 2 5 8 9 8 4 4 11 11 12 12 17 15 41 21 30 21 34 33 21 29 28 82 6b to 7a 6b to ------2 4 6 2 2 8 4 2 2 3 1 7 1 1 8 10 14 22 20 31 23 90 5 to 6a+ 5 to S P O R T R O U T E S O U T R S P O R More colour density means more routes and more quality. and more colour density routes More means more ------3 4 1 2 1 2 4 up to 4+ up to 9 8 11 13 13 15 16 18 69 40 73 44 98 31 93 25 65 43 29 80 35 29 25 37 20 47 85 101 214 167 120 206 Routes Kilnsey Gordale Hull Pot Pot Scar Pot Dib Scar Trow Gill Trow Langscar Blue Scar Loup Scar Yew Cogar Yew Scout Scar Knipe Scar Stony Bank Stony Troller's Gill Troller's Malham Cove Mill Side Scar Attermire Scar Attermire Moughton Nab Moughton Langcliffe Area Langcliffe Crummackdale Comb Hill Crag Panorama Crag Panorama Twistleton Scar Twistleton Witches' Quarry Witches' Humphrey Head Humphrey Castleberg Crag Castleberg Chapel Head Scar Giggleswick North Giggleswick

Giggleswick South Giggleswick Trowbarrow Quarry Trowbarrow Barrow Scout Cove Barrow

Robin Proctor's Scar Proctor's Robin Destination Planner Destination

Troller's

Lancashire South Cumbria South Arncliffe to Kilnsey to Arncliffe Malham and Gordale and Malham Giggleswick Area Giggleswick Ingleborough Area Ingleborough Loup and and Loup 40 Ingleborough Area Giggleswick Area Malham and Gordale Arncliffe to Kilnsey Loup Scar and Troller's Gill South Cumbria Lancashire Loup and Lancashire South Cumbria Troller's Arncliffe to Kilnsey Malham and Gordale Giggleswick Area Ingleborough Area Destination Planner Robin Proctor's Scar Barrow ScoutCove Trowbarrow Quarry Giggleswick South Giggleswick North Chapel HeadScar Castleberg Crag Humphrey Head Witches' Quarry Panorama Crag Twistleton Scar Comb HillCrag Crummackdale Langcliffe Area Moughton Nab Attermire Scar Mill SideScar Malham Cove Troller's Gill Stony Bank Scout Scar Knipe Scar Yew Cogar Loup Scar Blue Scar Langscar Trow Gill Dib Scar Pot Scar Hull Pot Gordale Kilnsey Routes 206 120 167 214 101 47 85 20 37 29 25 31 80 29 35 43 65 93 44 98 25 73 40 69 18 16 15 13 13 11 8 9 up to 4+ 4 4 3 1 1 2 2 ------More means more colour density routes andmore quality. S POR T ROU T ES 5 to 6a+ 22 90 23 31 20 14 10 4 2 2 2 8 2 2 6 1 1 7 1 3 8 4 ------6b to 7a 30 21 41 34 21 82 28 29 21 33 12 17 12 15 11 11 4 6 5 2 9 6 8 9 8 4 4 - - - - - 7a+ and up 7a+ and 31 98 25 37 99 27 38 17 12 10 10 10 10 2 9 8 7 2 7 1 7 8 1 1 4 ------Mod to S Mod 22 4 2 1 7 1 5 1 1 1 ------T RADOU T ES HS to HVS 24 33 21 40 17 12 9 5 3 6 2 7 3 ------E1 to E3 29 24 13 14 14 12 11 2 7 9 6 1 2 1 2 9 8 2 1 6 4 ------143 E4 andup 46 34 40 47 12 16 2 6 2 1 5 2 1 1 3 4 4 4 ------S S S A A A S S S F S A S S S S G F F F A F F S S F S S S S S S Approach 10min 15min 2-20min 20-30min 5min 5-8min 5-16min 1-10min 12min 30min 10-13min 18min 25min 15min 40min 10-12min 1-8min 15min 15min 15min 14min 20min 2-5min 15min 10-15min 13-20min 5-12min 2min 5min 3min 5min 10min Faded symbol means thatonly some ofthe routes -are sheltered inthe rain /are /are dry multi-pitch /are restricted W W E E E E R U } U U R U U R } U U U U U U } R U U T R U U { R Sun $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Shelt- ered ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Dry in Dry Rain K K K Multi- pitch Restric- X X X X X X X X tions sport routes. Isolated wallinabeautifulvalley. Excellentrockandsomegoodhard Popular butneedswarmishweatherasitishighuponthemoor. Two mainsectionsofcliffthathavesportclimbsinthe6to7range. and hardtradroutes.Popularwithwalkers.Sensitiveaccess. An atmosphericgorgewithtoweringwallsandsomebrilliantsport Close totheroadandparking.Exposedelements. shortsportpitchesongoodrock. A longlowwallwithsomevery Selection ofgrade6sonvariablequalityrock. A smallsportcragonthePennineWay aboveMalhamCove. andsheltered. routes acrossthegraderange.Oftendry Arguably thebestlimestonecliffinUKwithsuperbsportandtrad elements. Manyfineclimbsbothtradandsport. exposedtothe The areaisdottedwithlotsofcragsthatarevery but therockneedstobehandledwithcare. A convenientcragminutesfromSettlecentre.Ithasbecomepopular excellent naturalcragwithsomegoodroutes. Lots ofrockbutonlyafewdecentsportclimbs.TheSkylineisan good tradclimbsalsoontheUpperTier. Ayear-round venue. A hugenumberofsportclimbsinthelowertomidgrades.Some walls andintheextremelysteepHollywoodBowl. A cragforallwithexcellentsportroutesacrossthegradesonclean a cafebutfreeparkingislimited. Long timefavouriteforVStoE1tradclimbs.Onlyashortwalkfrom in anunusualsetting.Besttoabseilin. Rarely frequentedbutholdssomeinterestingsportandtradclimbs 6s. Theroutesarenotlongbutthereplentyofthem. One ofthebetterplacestoheadforiflooking5sandlowergrade needs carefulhandlinginplaces.Parkingislimited. A squatandsuper-steep linesonrockthat cragwithsomepowerful HVS/E1 leader. Blessedwithasublimeoutlook. Some enchantingtradlinesonfinerock.Bestfortheexperienced elements butcanbeclimbedonyearroundgivengoodweather. andexposedtothe populargrade6s.Quickdrying Lots ofvery takes awhiletocomeintoconditionbutgoodinhotweather. A narrowgorgewithgoodsportroutes.longwalkinandthecrag grade tradroutesinthearea.Exposedsobestonwarmerdays. Beautiful viewsofIngleboroughandsomethebestlowmid routes from Severe to E3. Access is very sensitive. routes from SeveretoE3.Access is very setonthe sideofPendleHillwith plentyoftrad A lovelylittle quarry A minorsportcragwith someshortandfierce routes. whenraininginthenearbyhills. Often dry A well-establishedtrad venuewithsomeoutstandingcrack-climbs. good locationbutnothingofanyrealquality. Small setofwallsonapeninsularwithsome old sportroutes.A A reasonablecliffwithonegoodrouteworth calling infor. intherainbutslowtocomeintocondition. Immaculate rockanddry A magnificentcragwithbrilliantroutesinthe highergrades. across theLakeDistrict.Nothingofrealquality butworthavisit. West-facing cragwithasetofdecentroutesbeautifuloutlook good additions.Mostlysportclimbing. rivervalleywithoneexcellentwallplussomeless An isolateddry Above apopularriverwithswimmingarea. steepwithsomeshortandhardsportroutes. A smallcragbutvery decent sportandtradroutes.Goodinhotweather. Secluded littlevalleywithtwogoodsectionsofrockandsome intherainalthoughslowtocomeintocondition. and oftendry A hugecragwithmagnificentsportclimbingandsometrad.Steep looking forsomepeaceandquietifKilnseyisbusy. A smallsetofsportclimbsonalongescarpment.Usefulforthose routes inthe6sand7s.Verysensitiveaccessrequirements. Beautiful setofwallswithsomebrillianthardtradanddecentsport Summary Page 360 359 352 346 344 332 326 316 312 302 276 275 258 252 238 218 217 216 184 168 164 156 124 108 100 82 78 70 56 44 97 86

TrowLancashire Gill Robin Proctor SouthGigg CumbriaNorth Gigg SouthLoup ScarAttermire and Troller's GillGordaleArncliffeMalham to Kilnsey Yew CogarMalham andBlue Gordale Scar KilnseyGiggleswickDib Area Scar LoupIngleborough Scar Area