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THE NORTHWESTERN HAWAIIAN ISLANDS an Annotated Bibliography Compiled by Edwin H

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THE NORTHWESTERN HAWAIIAN ISLANDS an Annotated Bibliography Compiled by Edwin H THE NORTHWESTERN HAWAIIAN ISLANDS An Annotated Bibliography Compiled by Edwin H. Bryan, Jr. This bibliography was compiled by Edwin H. Bryan, Jr. while employed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Hawaiian Islands and Pacific Islands National Wildlife Refuge Complex, 300 Ala Moana Blvd., Rm.5302, P.O. Box 50167, Honolulu, Hawaii 96850. Use of the data is pennitted so long as appropriate credits are gJven to the author and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Additional copies are available from the above address by remittance of reproduction costs. THE NORTHWESTERN HAWAIIAN ISLANDS Introduction Summary of Information 1 .•••..•••.••...•.•.•••• The Hawaiian Chain 2•........••..•.....•... Kaula Island 3•...•..............•.•• Nihoa Island 4••.•.•...•.....•..••.•. Necker Island 5..••••••••••.•••••••••• French Frigate Shoals 6•...••.••••••.••••..••. Gardner Pinnacles 7.•..••••••••.•.••...... Laysan Island a....................... Lisianski Island 9••..•........•......... Pearl and Hennes Reef 10 •..••.•.•.....•...•.••• Midway Is 1and 11 • . • . • . • . Ku re I s 1a nd 12 ..................•.... Plants, Birds, Stati·stics, and Record of Maps and Charts of the Area 13 ....•....•........••... Annotated Bibliographic References 14 ..........•............ Anonymous Articles 15 ....................... Index INTRODUCTION 1. The Hawaiian Chain We see only the peaks of the mighty range of volcanic mountains which fonn the Hawaiian Islands. They stretch from east-southeast to west-north­ west for a distance of 1660 nautical miles (1900 statute; 3057.74 kilomet- ers) or more, from the southeast side of Hawaii to beyond Midway and Kure. Each time a survey ship makes soundings along this strip it adds new sub­ merged peaks to the chain. We may divide the islands of the Hawaiian chain into three areas: (1) the eight main islands at the southeastern end; (2) the small rocky islets in the middle; and (3) the low sand and coral islands of the northwestern end. If we look only at what protrudes above the surface of the sea, we get the impression that the bulk of the mountain range lies southeast of Niihau. The average person, if he is aware at all that there is any land north westward of Kauai, regards it only as a few little rocks, reefs, and sandpiles. He forgets what lies below the surface of the sea. It is quite a shock to examine a profile of the islands and discover that beyond Nihoa the mountain chain is fully as continuous as is the ridge to the southeast of there. Some of the platfonns which underlie shoals and banks in the "little end of Hawaii", if elevated a few hundred feet, would rival in area the island of Hawaii, and would make Kauai and Oahu appear small by comparison. There is little doubt that some of these platforms are cut off cross-sections of fonner larger islands. 11 A study, discussed in "The Hawaiian chain , (E.H. Bryan, Jr., 1954) notes that an elevation of the land, or lowering of sea level, of 100 fa­ thoms (600 feet; 182.88 meters} would increase the area of the Northwest~ ern Hawaiian Islands from 6.695 square miles or 60 hectares to more than 5,100 square miles or 1,220,900 hectares, and would more than double the area of the Hawaiian Islands. Geologists believe that this enonnous mountain range was fanned by the outpouring of flow upon flow of lava, and other volcanic materials from a rift in the floor of the North Pacific ocean. The floor of the ocean on both sides of the Hawaiian chain averages about 2600 to 2700 fathoms or 15,600 to 16,200 feet below sea level, a mountain would have to be built up to a vertical height of about three miles just to reach the surface of the sea. Mauna Kea and ~auna Loa, on the island of Hawaii reach elevations of 13,796 and 13,680 feet (4,205 and 4,169 meters} respectively. Their summits reach a vertical height of more than five and a half miles above the floor of the ocean. 2 Modern theories are being fonnulated to account for the fonnation of a huge rift across the floor of the North Pacific Ocean, from which the vol­ canic material was ejected (see Jackson, E.D., E.A. Silver, and Oalrympie, 1972, and other references in the bibliography.) We will not attempt to discuss these here, except to say that the 11 Hawaiian Mountain range" con­ tinues westward, and turns in a northerly direction, toward Kamchatka, as the chain of Emperor Seamounts. The whole theory involves "plate tecton­ ics" and related subjects. One might call attention to the Hawaiian legend of Pele, goddess of the Hawaiian volcanoes. This tells how Pele began her journey through the Hawaiian Islands from the northwestern end, visiting each island in turn, until at present her homes are on the island of Hawaii in the craters of Kilauea, and Mokuaweoweo, on the sunmit of Mauna Loa. The geologists fol­ low the same sequence in their suggestion as to the order in which the Ha­ waiian Islands were fanned. The older peaks, at the northwestern end have been reduced to reefs and shoals by sinking and erosion. Small pinacles of lava rock can still be found in the middle section. Kauai and Niihau are the older islands, in the southeastern portion. The geology of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands is discussed by Pro­ fessor Harold S. Palmer, G.A. Macdonald and A.T. Abbott; H.T. Stearns, and others (see index to bibliography.) 3 2. Kaula Island Kaula is a small tuff cone resting on a broad, triangular, shallowly submerged base, which geologists describe as "the top of a shield volcano." It is located about 22 miles to the southwest of the southern tip of Niihau Island. Between these two islands the sea reaches a depth of 1000 fathoms (6,000 feet). The tuff cone rests near the southeastern edge of this tri­ angular flat, which for about eight miles lies 200 feet below sea level. Pioneer work on the geology of Kaula was begun on July 1, 1923, by Pro­ fessor Harold S. Palmer, when the U.S.S. TANAGER made a circuit of the islet, but was unable to effect a landing. Later he studied rock specimens collect­ ed by Frederick A. Edgecomb, engineer in charge of the Lighthouse Service, who supervised the building of a trail to the sunmit, so that the lighthouse could be built in August 1925. His observations up to that point, were pub­ lished in Bishop Museum Bulletin 35, 1927. From August 17 to 19, 1932, Dr. Palmer was the guest of the Lighthouse Service on Kaula, and continued his geological observations. The party also visited Lehua Island, another tuff cone at the northern end of Niihau, which he also studied. (See Palmer Geol­ ogy, 1936.) There is a good surrrnary of the geology of Kaula in G.A. Macdonald and 11 11 A.T. Abbott, Volcanoes in the Sea , 1970, which adds a fe\-1 details as to the geologic history. Edward L. Caum accompanied the expedition of the Lighthouse Service to Lehua and Kaula islands in August 1932, and gives a detailed report on the plants and animals found on both. (Bishop Museum Occasional Papers XI (no. 21), April 7, 1936.) Despite the dryness of the season,15 species of plants were found growing on Kaula; also 16 species of sea and migratory birds. He noted one species of gecko, but no mammals, although one small rat has been seen since. The noddy tern was the most abundant species of bird. Other birds were the white tern, the Necker Island or gray tern, the sooty tern, gray-backed tern, Bulwer's petrel, wedge-tailed shearwater, red-tailed tro­ pic bird, the red-footed, blue-faced, and corrrnon boobies, frigate birds, and the golden plover. Mr. Caum also collected specimens of 15 species of in­ sects (see E.H. Bryan, Jr., Hawaiian Entomological Society Proceedings for 1932, Vol. 8 No. 2 p. 245, 1933.) The light was completed and co111T1issioned on Kaula, at an elevation of 562 feet, August·1a, 1932. Although it was arranged to operate automati­ cally, it was discontinued in 1947. Kaula has been known to the Hawaiians for a long time, but never had regular inhabitants. Legends record that Hawaiians visit the island to col­ lect the feathers of birds for featherwork. This was substantiated by the observations of Captain James Cook, who recorded it as Tahoora (Taura) in January 1778. When the lighthouse was being built, the builders found the remains of two stone structures on the northern part of the crest. They also found a shelter cave on the east (concave) side, just below the surrunit, across the mouth of which was a low wall, suggesting that it, too, had been 4 Kaula Island used by visiting Hawaiians. In recent years 11 Kaula Rock" has been used as a military target. 5 3. Nihoa Island Nihoa, also called Bird Island and Moku Manu, is located about 120 miles, 193 km. to the northwest of Niihau and 250 miles (402 km.) from Honolulu. It is the first of the chain of Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. It is the sumnit of a huge volcanic peak, only about 900 feet (274 m.) of which remains expo­ sed above the sea. This islands shape resembles half of a cowboy's saddle. The leng&th measure~ about 1,500 yards ( l ,371 m.) east and west by 300 to 1,000 yards (274 to 914 .m.) Miller's Peak (910 feet; 277 m. ) is the "pom­ mel", and Tananger Peak (852 feet; 260 m.) is its upcurved back. It can be compared only to half a 11 saddle 11 as the northern side drops off sheer in a nearly perpendicular, some places overhanging cliff.
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