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OFFICIAL FREE BCN GUIDE! FREE ISSUE_OCT 2014_N. 27 ISSUE_OCT 2014_N. FREE BcnGuide IN ENGLISH TO THE BAR! DELISH AND AUTHENTIC SPOTS IN BARCELONA TO GET QUICK, CHEAP EATS DOWNLOAD FREE TIME OUT BARCELONA APP! THE BEST OF BARCELONA ON YOUR Contents IPHONE! October 2014 08 At the bar Grab a stool and sharpen your elbows! IRENE FERNÁNDEZ 08 Feature 20 Food & Drink Get back to the bar at your At last! A great reason to favourite eatery. eat out in the Barri Gòtic: Palosanto. 16 Around town Ciutat Bella: new murals 22 Shopping for the old city. Colette’s delicate textile jewellery sets up home in 18 Arts the Born. Pieter Hugo’s portraits of contemporary South Africa. 27 Listings TIME OUT BARCELONA TIME OUT BCN GUIDE ([email protected]), Via Laietana, 20 [email protected] Mercè Llubera 932955400 www.barcelonaturisme.com ([email protected]), Pere www.timeout.cat Editor Andreu Gomila Ribalta ([email protected]) Design Irisnegro Edited by 80 MES 4 Publicacions Publisher Eduard Voltas Producer Jan Fleischer & Turisme de Barcelona Finance Manager Judit Sans Designer Eduard Forroll Printed by Gràfica Impuls 45 Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila Writers Josep Lambies, DL B.21656-2012 Art director Diego Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, ISSN 2014-7546 Piccininno Eugènia Sendra Supported by Features and web editor Translations Nick Chapman Maria José Gómez Advertising Ex. Nuria Gómez October 2014 Time Out BCN Guide 3 Get out your diaries! We Monthly present just a handful of the cultural highlights of planner the month ahead. Wednesday 1 Friday 3 Tuesday 7 PHARRELL TOROBAKA FESTA MAJOR WILLIAMS Israel Galván and DE SARRIÀ The voice of the Akram Khan, two The music and moment presents big names in dance, festivities in Sarrià his latest album, take to the stage to don’t stop just ‘GIRL’, at Palau perform together. because it’s Sant Jordi. p.36 p. 40 Tuesday. p. 40 Sunday 11 Wednesday 15 PRESENTATION 53rd BARCELONA OF THE NEW INTERNATIONAL COLLECTIONS BOAT SHOW The MNAC new Hoist the sails! The show of works from boat show returns the 19th and 20th to Port Vell. centuries. p.32 p.43 Saturday 17 Thursday 23 MARKET OF IN-EDIT MARKETS BEEFEATER A chance to FESTIVAL discover – and The music taste – Catalan documentary food. festival celebrates p.43 its 12th year. p.44 Tuesday 28 Sunday 28 VOLL-DAMM THE PASSION JAZZ FESTIVAL ACCORDING TO The Wayne Shorter CAROL RAMA Quartet shows off The MACBA their stuff at the explores the legacy Auditori. of artist Carol p.48 Rama. p.30 4 Time Out BCN Guide October 2014 The HotHot Seatt MARIA DIAS Wagner Pa The city’s best-known resident Carioca talks about Brazilian music in Barcelona. By Jordi Bianciotto Has the image of Brazilian music in cultural centre Can Vies, a city BCN changed since the ’80s? district with a strong personality. Yes. People have found it’s a richer In Barcelona I can preserve my tradition than they thought; it’s not Brazilian identity, and at the same all samba and Carmen Miranda. time I don’t feel like an outsider. I Since I’ve been here, a lot of call myself a ‘Catalarioca’. Brazilian musicians have come to Your first album with Brazuca play, and that’s been an influence. Matraca dates from 2000, the Like Carlinhos Brown. But did his key year for BCN’s mestissatge massive street party in 2004 help? sound, which mixed world music, I was there! Carlinhos may seem a flamenco and folk. bit freaky, but that’s not an act, and I played with Dusminguet, the most he’s a great musician. But I think influential group. All these bands Caetano Veloso’s concerts have with accordion today remind me done more for Brazilian music. of them. I also played with Fermin You knew Barcelona pre-Olympics. Muguruza, Amparanoia… For me, Do you miss those times? the scene revolved around Club I feel nostalgic for that innocence, Mestizo. I remember Manu Chao starting with my own. I came here preparing his first album there. from a young country, and Passeig New groups like Txarango and La de Gràcia really impressed me. But Pegatina say that the Barcelona Barcelona has an ability to reinvent sound is still alive, and helps them itself, even if the pressure of sell themselves internationally. tourism can be a bit oppressive. Yes, I think mestissatge as a You live in Sants. sound is over and done with, but It’s our Bronx, with the squat and Barcelona isn’t. 6 Time Out BCN Guide October 2014 MAGNETIC BARS Let’s hear it for bar counters, the border zone where waiters and customers meet and the perfect place to eat, drink and pass the time. These are the bars with the strongest powers of attraction in the city. Say goodbye to chairs and tables… By Òscar Broc Photographs: Iván Moreno and Irene Fernández 8 Time Out BCN Guide October 2014 LA PUBILLA CAÑETE This small, old-fashioned bar is This is probably the place of located right next to the door as you worship most favoured by lovers of come in, so you can’t miss it. Across sophisticated tapas. The tapas, the bar’s surface slide down-to-earth tasting dishes, stews and fried home-made dishes, based on delicacies that cross this wooden ingredients sourced in the Catalan expanse are in another league: the countryside. The daily set lunch torta de camarons – tiny prawns in menu (€14 well spent) has an pan-fried batter – the braised beef enviable reputation, but La Pubilla sandwiches, the tuna tartare with really wins our vote for its hearty mascarpone or the incredible cooked breakfasts: their fried eggs croquettes are some of the delights with streaky bacon, salt cod with that divine law decrees you shall samfaineta (Catalan ratatouille), a order. If you’re hungrier for more tortilla (omelette) of the day, and the than tapas, the fricasseed monkfish orgasmic coca bread with tomato with wild mushrooms and oxtail pulp will make you regret that you with potato puree will have you ever spent mornings having settled speaking in tongues, like the girl in for nothing more than a coffee and a The Exorcist. croissant. Unió, 17 Pl. de la Llibertat, 23 T. 93 270 34 58 T. 93 218 29 94 www.barcanete.com October 2014 Time Out BCN Guide 9 CAL PEP with meat, vegetable and delicious ramen noodles, demanding to be Cap Pep’s long bar is a famous port slurped as noisily as possible. It’s of call for sybarites, consummate essential to get there at least a half gastronomes and predators with an hour before the sign says they’re refined palates. Life here revolves open if you want to find a seat: you’ll around the counter, the crowded need samurai sword skills to get in vantage point from which you can otherwise. watch waiters serving up a battery Girona, 164 of delicacies such as clams, baby T. 93 002 84 41 octopuses, artichokes, monkfish tails, and omelettes. Sure, you’ll feel DOS PALILLOS the breath of the queuers next in line on the back of your neck, but the If you want a trip into the food’s so good, and so fresh, you’ll gastronomic stratosphere, the bar at forget the murderous stares of Dos Pallilos awaits you, credit card customers waiting for you to hurry reader at the ready. It may look like a up and leave. regular local tapas bar, but the Pl. de les Olles, 8 dishes created behind the bar by T. 93 310 79 61 chef Albert Raurich – formerly of www.calpep.com internationally reputed El Bulli – and his team, are an incredibly COURE sophisticated take on the finest Tapas and tasting dishes based on Catalan cuisine with original touches, and listed on the menu at reasonable prices, made with fresh ingredients of the highest quality; elegance, class... At the marvellous bar you’ll find speedy service and quality, without heart-attack- inducing bills. The sardine coca bread with olive paste and aubergines, the Galician beef hamburger, and the mascarpone and mustard tartare are some of the culinary hits most in demand from diehard fans of this sumptuous lump of wood, which seats no more than 10 at a time. Ptge. de Marimon, 20 T. 93 200 75 332 www.restaurantcoure.es RAMEN-YA HIRO With cooler weather on the way, it’ll soon be time for an intravenous injection from one of Ramen-Ya Hiro’s giant bowls of noodles. This is the best specialist ramen joint in Barcelona, and it’s not for the faint of stomach: at their tiny bar they serve cauldrons of steaming broth 10 Time Out BCN Guide October 2014 Asian cuisine. First-timers are bar, however – which stretches out advised to order the tasting menu its branches to seat more diners – is and sit back to enjoy the show: the ideal place for brunch, which is watching the precise choreography indeed among the best in Barcelona, of the cooks at work from a front- with Mexican chilaquiles, salmon, row seat is worth the price of French toast and the tastiest pulled admission on its own. pork sandwich in the Born, and Elisabets, 9 possibly beyond. A bar that, T. 93 304 05 13 paradoxically, cures hangovers. www.dospalillos.com Comerç, 1 www.picnic-restaurant.com PICNIC LA PEPITA If tapas and international food for a trendy crowd is what you’re looking At this gastrobar, the traditional for, this is your spot. Picnic has won pepito, or steak sandwich, swaps a name for its cosmopolitan cuisine, gender and becomes a pepita, a a global fusion feast, featuring sophisticated, tender everything from fried green reinterpretation of its chewier tomatoes, grilled octopus and predecessor, with two perfectly hamburgers to coca bread with toasted slices of bread and optional escalivada (smoky grilled extras such as foie gras or green vegetables).