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9-1938 EC9919 Candies Old and New Mabel Doremus

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Doremus, Mabel, "EC9919 Candies Old and New" (1938). Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension. 3016. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist/3016

This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Extension at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. _£_. c.'#- c; r19 CIRCULAR 9919 • SEPTEMBER, 1938

OLD AND NEW bJ :I 0 0

UNIVERSITY OF NEBRASKA COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE EXTENSION SERVICE

U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE COOPERATING CONTENTS PAGE Use of Sweets in the Diet . 3 Candy Ingredients . 3 Classifications of Candy . 4 Principles of Candy Making . 4 Temperatures ...... 5 Utensils and Equipment ...... 6 Order of Work . 6 Packing and Wrapping Candy for Gifts . 6 Recipes 8 Aloha Panocha, Chocolate Fudge, Dark Chocolate Fudge ...... 8 Honey Fudge, Dutch Walnuts, Fondant .. 9 Divinity, Peanut Butter Roll, Applets, After-Dinner Jelly Mints, Creole Pralines, Sparklets or Lollipops ...... 10 Molasses or Sorghum Taffy, Pulled Orange Taffy, Grape-Nuts Molasses Brittle, Honey Nut Brittle . 11 Caramelcorn Nuggets, Peanut Brittle . 12 -

Ac knowledgment is made to Mi ss Matilda Peters, Associate Professo r, Foods and N utrition Divison of the Home Economics Department of the Uni versity of Nebraska, fo r her assistance in the preparation of this circular. Candies New and Old MABEL DOREMUS

T has been said that the perfect gift is something that you have made I yourself. Homemade candy is an appropriate and most acceptable Christmas gift and one that enables the giver to share the spirit of giving even though her money is limited. A good candy maker is not necessarily a person with years of experience. If you have never made candy before, you need not hesitate to begin now. Of course, every homemaker wishes to avoid candy failure with its dis­ appointment and waste of ingredients, time, and effort. There are a few simple rules underlying candy making that once leam.ed and followed will do much toward perfecting the product. Use of Sweets in the Diet Candy has been known and used since about the year 2,000 B. C. In the Bible candy is referred to as "Wafers made with honey." Candy is such a favorite with ole and young that we know the craving for sweets is a normal one. In deciding whether or not sweets should be eaten we might first decide whether sugar, the basis of candy, is harmful. Sugar is an energy-giving food and all normally active people require a large amount of energy. There is no doubt that too much sugar irritates the lining of the stomach, upsets digestion, and destroys the appetite for more needed foods. Common sense tells us, then, to continue to eat candy but to follow such positive rules as these: The time to eat candy is after a meal rather than before meals. When selecting candy for children, take care to choose the m0re simple sweets. Fruit candies, hard candies, and simple kinds without large amounts of rich ingredients are best. Eat candy in comparatively small amounts. Molasses and brown sugar contain more minerals than white sugar. Candy Ingredients Sugar is the principal ingredient in most candies. Either cane or beet sugar may be used. Fairly fine-grained sugar, free from foreign materials, is best. Brow~ sugar, powdered sugar, confectioner's sugar, and maple sugar may also be used in candy. Honey may be used in some candies but special recipes for its use need to be followed. Molasses and light and dark syrup improve the texture of many candies. Butter improves the flavor and texture. Certain candies contain egg whites or gelatin, which give their char­ acteristic texture. Flavoring materials vary with the kind of candy. Nuts, chocolate, and fruits are added to some candies. 4 NEBRASKA ExTENSION CIRCULAR 9919

Classification of Candy After one has been sure to select the best ingredients, the next step is to follow the directions in the recipe faithfuly. There are three possible classifications of candy, namely: Cream candy or crystalline, in which the crystals are very small. Ex­ amples: fudge, panocha, and fondant. Non-crystalline: brittles; hard candies, rock candy; chewy candies, caramels. Miscellaneous candies, which contain some ingredient to give a special texture. Examples: gelatin candies, divinity, and gum drops. The ingredients in creamy candies vary. Fondant contains sugar anmilk, and butter. In fudge large amounts of cocoa or chocolate are used. Panocha (sometimes incor­ rectly spelle6 penuche) is made with brown sugar. Principles of Candy Making In good crystalline candy the crystallization of the sugar is so regulated that the candy is not sugary but creamy, fine grained, and smooth. To obtain this result in fudge, panocha, and fondant, we must learn how to obtain very small crystals. Some methods of doing this are: Use of acids such as cream of tartar, lemon juice, and vinegar to change part of the sucrose to invert sugar, which does not crystallize easily. This invert sugar is present in syrup, molasses, honey, and brown sugar; therefore any of these may be used in place of the acid. The sugar in the candy must all be dissolved before candy starts to boil. Wipe down the sides of the pan in which the candy is boiling with a damp cloth wrapped around the tines of a fork. This removes crystals which might fall into the candy and cause crystallization. Do not stir or beat candy while boiling or before it is cool, because this causes it to re-crystallize into large, coarse crystals. Large crystals attract others, and if the candy is cooled it will become seeded with the more desirable small crystals. Hard candy is not difficult to make but the handling of it when done requires speed and skill. It must be very hot and shaped at a high tempera­ ture. The ingredients in hard candy are generally sugar, water, ami some ingredient to prevent crystallization such as vinegar or syrup. Colorings, flavorings, and decorations may be added as desired. Rules for making hard candies: Dissolve s111gar before the boiling point is reached and do not stir while boiling. Wipe the crystals from the sides of the pan. Cook less rapidly toward the end of the boiling time to prevent darkening of the syrup. Gelatin candies, such as gum drops, marshmallows, and many paste candies, are not as sweet as other candies. They are generally made by soaking granulated gelatin in a prescribed amount of cold water and then boiling it with other ingredients for a comparatively short time. A gelatin CANDIES OLD ANI!l NEw 5 candy is usually cooked without stirring and then poured into a wet mold or flat pan. T emperatures In order to be sure of uniform results it is best to use an accurate candy thermometer. It is a great convenience and is often the secret of candy suc­ cess. Many people obtain· good results with­ out the thermometer, because they have developed skill in telling when the candy is done by other methods. If a thermometer is used it should be placed in the syrup before the boiling point is reached in order to heat it gradually. When reading the thermometer, the eye should be on a level with the mer­ cury in the tube. More accurate results will be obtained if the thermometer does not touch the bottom of the saucepan. Wh.en the thermometer is removed from the boiling syrup it should be placed at once in very hot water and cooled slowly. Candy that is undercooked will not harden and that which is overcooked will be grainy and hard . In damp weather it is often necessary to cook candy to a higher temperature to make sure it will harden. Cold-water Tests and C01-responding Temperatures

T emperature Stage of Cooking, Type of Candy Degrees F. Cold-Water Test Description Syrup 228-234 Thread Spins a thread when dropped from spoon. Thread fin er and longer as tempera­ ture increases. Fudge, panocha, 234-240 Soft ball Soft ball in cold boiled fros ting, water. Flattens fo ndant on removal. Caramels 244 -248 Firm ball Firm ball in cold wa ter ; holds its shape on removal. Divinity, nougat, 250-265 Hard ball Hard ball in cold popcorn balls, water. Plastic and salt-water taffy chewy on removal. Butterscotch, 270-290 Crack Separates into heavy taffies, or pulled threads in cold candies water; plastic and bends on removal. Brittle, glace, 295-31 0 H ard crack Threads hard and barley sugar brittle on removal from water. Caramel or burnt 315-338 Clear to brown Becomes darker with sugar liquid higher temperatures. Very hard on cooling. NEBRASKA ExTENSION CIRCULAR 9919

In the absence of a thermometer a simple household test to tell when candy is done is to drop a small portion of the boiling syrup in a cup of cold water. When the hot syrup is cooled by the water it thickens and can be formed into balls of varying degrees of hardness. By feeling the drop in the cup, one can decide whether it has reached the soft ball, hard ball, or any other stage that the recipe calls for. Utensils and Equipment If one were making a business of candy making it would be advisable to obtain rather complete equipment. Select equipment according to your needs. Helpful equipment for candy includes a straight-sided pan heavy enough to give protection from burning, a measuring cup, measuring spoons, and if possible a candy thermometer. With the exception, perhaps, of the thermometer, these are to be found in any kitcheB. The kind of thermometer which requires little guesswork is best. One which has a scale for each two degrees is good. The thermometer should register to at least 320 o F. Most candy recipes give the temperature used at sea level. At other altitudes, water does not boil at 212 ° F. To correct the candy tempera­ ture for your altitude, find the temperature at which water boils in the locality in which you live. Add the difference in degrees if above 212 o F. and subtract the difference if below 212 o F. For example, if the water boils at 210 ° F. and a recipe requires a temperature of 240 ° F., the tem­ perature used would be 238o F . A marble slab from an old table or chest of drawers makes an ideal surface on which to work the candy and cool it. Additional equipment needed for certain recipes would include a double­ boiler, spatula, egg beater, scissors, and wax paper. Order of Work Since candy-making requires undivided attention, you must work with ,...... speed when the cooking process is completed. Various preparations and processes included in making candy may be done before beginning to cook the candy or during the early stage of its cooking. A sHggested order of work is as follows: 1. Assemble necessary equipment and ingredients. 2. Measure ingredients and put them on the fire to cook. 3. Prepare pans into which candy is to be poured. Some pans require oiling and others are rinsed in cold water. 4. Prepare chopped fruit or nuts to be added to candy last. 5. Place the flavoring within easy reach. 6. Have the spatula conveniently near to use in spreading candy. Packing and Wrapping Candy for Gifts The carefully prepared candies you have spent so many hours in mak­ ing surely deserve an attractive packing and wrapping Candy is seen be­ fore it is eaten and should be carefully packed so that it will look attractive CANDIES OLD AND NEW 7 w1len the package is opened. An original, inexpensive, yet professional touch to candy wrappings is desirable. Candies of contrasting flavors, textures, and colors can be assembled to make aB interesting assortment. Dark and light kinds may be effectively arranged in layers to produce a checker-board effect. The following suggestions for containers for candy may be helpful:

Homemade baskets with a doily placed in the bottom are attractive when the candy is symmetrically arranged and covered with cellophane. The same idea may be used on heat-proof glass bowls or china bowls. Such containers are useful after the candy is gone. A shiny new muffin pan makes a useful container. Two or three pieces of candy may be placed in fluted paper cups and placed in each compart­ ment. Small bread pans may be packed neatly with candy, with rectangular pieces of waxed paper used between layers. A wooden salad bowl may be filled with candies, covered with cell­ ophane, and the wooden fork and spoon fastened on the top with the bow. Pasteboard egg boxes make an attractive candy container when lined with strips of decorative shelf paper or silver paper. Shallow tin cans may be enameled and filled with assorted candies. Boxes of all sizes and shapes may be pressed into duty as candy con­ tainers. When wrapping a box, place it upside down on a sheet of tissue or other decorative paper. This brings the edges of the paper to the bottom of the box when finished. Allow about an inch overlap on the middle and a little over half the depth of the box on the ends. Fold in the sides. Joints may be sealed with transparent tape or tied to produce various effects. The method of tying used depends upon the size and shape of box. "Off center" tyings are effective when carefully used. A separate decorative bow may be tied on, giving a neater finish. Boxes may be covered with decorative paper pasted on and not re­ wrapped, but merely tied with ribbon. Press carefully the paper and ribbon used. Lay the box top to be covered on the paper and measure, 8 NEBRASKA ExTENSION CmcuLAR 9919 allowing YJ-inch fold to paste on the iaside. Tip the box and mark the edge, allowing seam or lap. Crease -corners and cut away a square of superfluous paper from the corners. Paste the long side first, if a rectan­ gular box. Put the paste on the box rather than on the paper. Finish by pressing edges with fingers. Whether candy boxes are wrapped or covered, when plain paper is used, they may be decorated on top by cut-out shapes. Snowflakes and stars, holly wreaths, ships, crescents, Christmas trees, or candles in candle holders are particularly effective. Parts of gaily colored Christmas cards or other pictures may be pasted on the tops of boxes. Red and green yarn may be used for tying, and also paper and cellophane ribbons. Colored cellophane straws may be tied tightly on the top of the box to form a pompon or rosette. Homemade boxes and cornucopias are attractive candy containers. Candy Recipes Aloha Panocha y, c. brown sugar I T. butter I c. granulated sugar y, t. vanilla y. c. cream y, c. \sugars, cream, and pineapple until a soft ball forms when dropped in cold water (238 ° F .). Remove from fire, add butter, cool, and beat until creamy. Add vanilla and walnuts, pour into buttered pan, and cut into squares. Chocolate Fudge 2 squares unsweetened chocolate 2 T. butter % c. milk I t. va nilla 2 c. sugar I c. broken nut meats Few grains of salt Add chocolate to milk; cook until mixture is blended, stirring constantly. Add sugar and salt, and stir until mixture boils. Continue boiling without stirring until a small amount of mixture forms a very soft ball in cold water (232 ° F.). Add butter and vanilla. Cool to lukewarm (IIO o F.); beat until mixture thickens and loses its gloss. Turn at once into greased pan 4x8 inches. When cold, cut in squares. Makes I 8 large pieces. Dark Chocolate Fudge 2 c. brown sugar Y. c. strong coffee Y, c. white sugar Y, c. cream 2 squares unsweetened chocolate, grated I t. vanilla Pinch of salt I T. butter Y, c. nuts or 8 marshmallows Put ingredients in a sauce pan and stir until well mixed. Place over flame and cover until the mixture comes to a full rolling boil. Then continue to cook uncovered, without stirring until a small amount of the candy forms a soft ball when dropped in cold water (238 ° F.). Remove from the hea t and add vanilla and butter. Set in a pan of cold water and cool to lukewarm. Beat until the mixture becomes light and creamy. Add nuts or marshmallows cut in pieces. Pour into buttered pan when the candy be­ gins to stiffen and decorate the top with nuts or small pieces of marshmallows. When the fudge is firm, cut it into squares. CANDIES OLD AND NEw 9

Honey Fudge square bitter chocolate 1 c. milk Y. c. honey 4 T. butter 2 c. granulated sugar 1 t. vanilla Y. t. salt 1 c. nuts Melt chocolate over hot water in the sauce pan in which the candy is to be cooked. Add the honey, sugar, and salt and stir until well blended. Then add the milk and butter. With occasional stirring, cook rapidly to the soft ball stage (236° F.). At the instant the candy is done, remove it from fire and set in a pan of cold water. When cooled to lukewarm, add vanilla and bea t until stiff. Add nuts and stir just enough to distribute, then turn quickly into a buttered pan. Yield: 1 Yz lbs. Dutch Walnuts Heat, stirring until dissolved, 1 Yz c. sugar 1 Yz c. brown sugar 1 c. milk Cook ts 240° ·F. (firm ball ). Add 8 quartered marshmallows. Cool 5 minutes. Beat; add 1 c. broken black walnut meats; shape into smaN balls; roll in ground nut­ meats. Makes 30 pieces. Fondant 2 c. sugar Ys t. cream of tartar or Y. c. light corn syrup 1 c. water Put the sugar, water, and corn syrup into a sauce pan and cook, stunng until the sugar is dissolved. When the candy begins to boil, cover the sauce pan and cook for three minules. The steam formed helps to dissolve any sugar crystals which may be thrown on the sides of the sauce pan. Remove the cover and continue cooking. From time to time wash away any sugar crystals which appear on the sides of the sauce pan. For this purpose a fork covered with cheesecloth anc;l dipped into cold water may be used. Ways to Use Fondant Cream mints: Melt fondant in small container over hot water, flavor with a few drops of oil of peppermint, clove, or cinnamon. Coloring may be added if desired. Drop quickly from teaspoon on oiled paper, stirring after each dropping. If mixture becomes too thick, beat in a few drops of boiling water. Checolate fondant: Knead 2 sq uares melted chocolate and Yz teaspoon vanilla into 1 cup fondant. Fruit loaf: Work fo ndant until soft and creamy. Flavor with vanilla. Add pieces of candied cherries or other candied fruit and nuts. Press into a loaf one inch thick and two inches wide. Slice Y. -inch thick. Wrap in oiled paper. Bon bons: Work fondant until soft and creamy. Flavor with vanilla, or almond, or wintergreen. Color delicately with fruit coloring. Shape. Decorate with pieces of candied fruits or nuts. Fondant centers: Divide fondant into several portions, adaing flavoring, coloring, and other ingredients such as shredded cocoanut, pieces of nuts, or chopped fruit. Work with fingers until well blended. Shape each portion into roll one ineh thick. Cut into Yz -inch pieces and shape into balls or ovals, flattening bases slightly. Let stand until firm on the surface and dip in chocolate or in melted fondant which has been flavored and delicately colored. Chocolates: Cool weather is best for chocolate dipping. Either ordinary bitter chocolate or a specially prepared dipping chocolate may be used for dipping. Cut one pound or more of dipping chocolate into pieces. Put in the top of a double boiler over hot water. When chocolate begins to melt, or when the water in the lower part of the boiler begins to boil, remove both parts from the fire and stir until the chocolate is melted. Place top of double boiler in pan of ic« water and beat gently until it feels 10 NEBRASKA ExTENSION CIRCULAR 9919

a little cooler than tl1e hand (about 85 o F. ). Drop centers one at a time, lifting out --.. on tmes of a fork and scrape off superfluous chocolate on edge of !'>an. Place on waxed paper. Beat moroughly after dipping each candy. Cool candies quickly. Divinity 2Y, c. sugar 2 egg whites Yz c. syrup Yz c. nuts Yz c. water 1 t. vanilla Boil sugar, syrup, and water to soft-ball stage and pour half of it over beaten egg whites. B01l rest to hard-ball stage, and pour over whites. Beat until shiny. Add vanilla and nuts, and pour into buttered pan. Peanut Butter Roll Shape 1 c. peanut butter in seven inch roll. Around it mold a mixture of: Yz c. pecans 2 T. sorghum Yz c. shredded cocoanut 6 crushed graham crackers 3 T . melted butter Add enough heavy cream to moisten. Roll in graham cracker crumbs. Wrap in wax .paper. Chill and slice. Applets 2 T. granulated gelatin 1 T. bnon juice Yz c. cold water l c. chopped nuts 2 c. unsweetened apple pulp Few grains salt 2 c. granulated sugar Powdered sugar

Core and slice apples. Put in sauce pan with ~i c. water and cook until tender, men force tl1rough sieve. Measure pul13, add sugar, and cook until very mick (about 25 minutes) . Add gelatin which has been soaked 5 or 10 minutes in me Y, c. cold water. Add nuts, sa lt, and lemon juice, stirring well. Pour into a flat buttered pan and allow to stand in a cold place (not in refrigerator) over night. Remove fmm ·pan, cut in cubes, and roll in powdered sugar. Orange juice, rose, or cinnamon flavoring may be used instead of me lemon juice. This makes a good holiday confection. After Dinner Jelly Mints 2 level T. gelatin Few grains salt 2 c. sugar Yz t. peppermint extract 2 T. lemon juice % c. water Green coloring Soak gelatin in % c. cold water about five minutes. Put sugar and % c. water in sauce pan. Bring to me boiling point, add soaked gelatin, and let boil twenty minutes. Remove from fire, add remaining ingredients, and color me desired shade of green. Turn into a pan (first rinsed in cold water) to one inch in thickness . WheR set, remove to board, cut in cubes, and roll in powdered sugar. Creole Pralines 3 c. sugar T . butter I c. water t. vinegar 3 c. pecan nut mea ts Cook until syrup dropped fro tn end of spoon spins a light mread. Remove from fire, beat minute, and drop by spoonfuls on buttered board. Sparklets or Lollipops 2 c. sugar 1 c. water % c. corn syrup Coloring and flavoring CANDIEs OLD AND NEw 11

Put sugar, water, and syrup into a straight-sided sauce pan. Place over a low fire and stir until the sugar is completely dissolved; then boil without stirring until syrup reaches 310° F. or until a little dropped in cold water becomes very brittle (cook rather slowly toward the end so that the sugar will not caramelize and discolor the syrup). While cooking, wipe the sides of the pan occasionally with a wet cloth. Remove from fire, add coloring and flavoring. Stir only enough to blend color. Drop from tip of teaspoon on a slightly greased marble slab or large platter, making rounds the size of a nickel or a dime. When cool, slip a spa tula under the candy to loosen it. Variations: Pour thin layer in a greased muffin pan to form patties. Decorate while warm with chopped pistachio nuts or tiny candies. To make lollipops, place wooden skewer at bottom of round of candy while it is still warm. Decorate while warm. Use candy life savers for eyes, corn candy or jelly beans for nose, and candied orange peel or dried apricots for mouth or candy corn kernels to look like teeth. Molasses or Sorghum Taffy Yz c. melted butter 2 c. sugar 1 Yz c. water 1 c. molasses or sorghum y. c. light corn syrup Combine ingredients in kettle large enough to hold three times this amount. Place over high heat and stir constantly until sugar is dissolved . Cook rapidly, lowering heat slightly as mixture thickens, and cook until a small amount of syrup forms a hard ball in cold water (258 o F.). Pour on greased platter or marble slab. As edges cool, turn toward center with spatula. When cool enough to handle, butter han-ds lightl y and pull candy until light in color and too hard to pull further. Stretch out into long rope about Yz -inch in diameter and cut with scissors. Wrap in waxed paper. Makes 1 Yz pounds taffy. Pulled Orange Taffy 2 c. sugar Y. c. water Juice of 2 oranges Combine all ingredients and cook, stirring only until sugar is dissolved, to hard ball stage--256 ° F. Turn onto oiled slab or pia tter and as edges begin to harden turn them into center with a spatula. When cool enough to handle, pull with tips of fingers (oiled or dipped into cornstarch) and stretch into a long rope. When light and porous cut with scissors into pieces and wrap in waxed paper. This is one of the easiest candies to make-and delicious. Grape-Nuts Molasses Brittle I c. sugar Yz c. molasses Yz c. water Y. t. salt 1 T. butter 1 c. grape-nuts Combine sugar, molasses, water, and salt in sauce pan. Place over low fl ame and stir constantly until sugar is dissolved. Cook until a small amount of syrup becomes brittle in cold water (270° F.), stirring occasionally. Add butter and grape-nuts, stmmg as little as possible. Pour on greased platter. Cool slightly. Stretch as thin as possible and break into small pieces. Makes 1 pound brittle. Honey Nut Brittle Sweets made with honey add distinction to the Christmas candy box. One of the best is Honey Nut Brittle, an amber-clear hard candy with toasted nuts. To toast the nuts, place them in a pan and let them brown delicately in a moderate oven (350 o F.). c. honey Dash of salt 2 T. light corn syrup 1 T. butter Yz c. sugar 1 c. nut meats, broken in small pieces Yz c. hot water and toasted 12 NEBRASKA ExTENSION CmcuLAR 99 19

Combine honey, corn syrup, sugar, water, and sa lt, and cook over a low fire until ~ a temperature of 290 ° F. is reached or until a small amount cracks when dropped in co ld water. Stir occasionall y. Remove from lire, add butter and nuts, stirring only enough to mix. Pour onto greased baking shee t and press out with spa tul a. As soon as it can be handled, pull out into thin sheet. When hard, break into irregular pieces. If preferred, the mixture may be poured into a pan and cut in squares. Caramelcorn Nuggets 2 c. sugar 2 T. butter 3 T. molasses 4 qts. popped corn Melt sugar in iron skillet over low fire, stirring constantl y to prevent scorching. As soon as sugar is entirely melted, add molasses and butter and stir quickly to mix well. Pour over popped corn in thin strea m, stirring thoroughly to coat the kernels evenl y. Let the mixture harden well and then brea k into small, irregular pieces. Peanut Brittle I Y, c. sugar y, pound salted peanuts I c. corn syrup or honey 2 c. shredded cocoanut y, c. water I T. butter

Cook the sugar, corn syrup, and water to the soft-ball stage (238 o F.) . Add pea­ nuts and continue cooking until brittle (240° F .) when tested in cold water. Re­ move from the fire. Add cocoanut and butter. Pour into well buttered pan. When cold, lift fr om the pan and break into pieces of convenient size. If the brittle is made witl1 honey, it may become sticky soo ner than that made with syrup.

Distributed in furtherance of Acts of May 8 and June: 30, 1914. Extension Service of the Co llege of Agriculwre, University of Nebraska, and U. S. Department of Agriculture cooperating. W. H. Brokaw, Director. [9-38- 40M]