Issue No. 169 Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 ORDER DELIVERY TO Last Hidden October Salon: YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 pre-war treasures of Snapshots of a [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 salon is Kalemegdan disappearing BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 hair to stay world

Page 4 Page 9 Page 10 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough Serbia’s EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser Putin tests Russian - - - ‘grey’NEWS economy power on Belgrade visit resistsNEWS Vladimir Putin “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: reform party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. will be using his forthcoming visit to Reducing the

grey or shadow page 10 Serbia to showcase economy could Russia’s continuing add millions of influence in euros to Serbia’s hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro -

Eastern Europe, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. budget - but the W experts say. results so far June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday,

Gordana ANDRIĆ have not been page 5

erbia is preparing a red- encouraging. carpet welcome for Russia’s Vladimir Putin on October Katarina MARKOVIĆ 16, promising a victory pa- Stevan VELJOVIĆ rade on a scale not seen in conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the Sdecades. fter years of unsuccess- After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party Putin’s visit and the parade form part fully hunting for work, V. E of celebrations marking the 70th an- Pavlović, 31, a graduate niversary of the liberation of Belgrade manager from Belgrade, from Nazi German occupation. got an opportunity to work “President Putin is coming as a rep- as a salesman in his cousin’s private firm. AFriday • June 13 2008 resentative of the army that participat- He was warned that he would not get ed in the liberation of Belgrade,” said a contract and that his salary would not Milovan Drecun, one of the organisers include any welfare contributions, but he of the parade, recalling the key role still accepted it. THIS ISSUE OF of the Soviet Red Army in 1944. “We “I did not hesitate because I had no Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED also invited veterans from other allied choice,” he said. “I have little work experi- on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic countries,” he added. ence, and no one helped me get a job in which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T Experts believe Putin arrives in Serbia to test his influence on Belgrade’s government. Photo by Sergei Chirikov/AP a state-owned company, so this was the Continued on page 2 best I could get,” he said. He is pleased that the work seems to be going well - but doesn’t expect to get a regular contract any time soon. “The situ- Talk show’s death raises ation on the market is difficult, so I don’t hope too much,” he concluded. With 769,000 people officially seeking jobs in Serbia - an unemployment rate of fears for Serbia media 20.3 per cent - Pavlović is one of many people who are content to work without B92’s decision to ditch the iconic politics show “You have a media landscape where station in the commercial sector, ana- contracts, as long as they get paid. all the televisions belong to one man,” lysts are worried that the gap will be not A recent survey of the labour force ‘Utisak Nedelje’ will impoverish the media in Bećković told RTV Vojvodina, concern- be filled. showed that around a fifth of all those in Serbia, analysts believe. ing Vučić. B92 is one of four TV stations with work in Serbia work in the grey, or “shad- Bećković is not alone in her concerns national coverage in Serbia. The other ow”, economy – which means they do not Gordana ANDRIĆ Milosevic didn’t do - something that about the fate of the Serbian media gen- three are the state-funded broadcaster, show up in job statistics. no one ever thought to do - he has erally. RTS, and the entertainment channels, Estimates about the total number of he decision of the broad- done now?” Olja Bećković, the show’s Many experts say B92’s decision to Pink and Prva. people working in the grey economy in caster B92 to axe a flagship author and host, said, clearly blaming scrap “Utisak Nedelje”, as part of a broad B92 announced that “Utisak Nedelje” Serbia range from around 400,000 to as of independent journal- Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić for switch to entertainment-based pro- was going into storage on September much as 700,000. ism – the political show the death of her 24-year-old TV pro- grammes, will further damage the me- 26th following failed negotiations with Experts agree that a strengthened sys- “Utisak Nedelje” – has gramme. dia, reducing the space for independent Bećković. She claimed the show had tem of inspections is one way to tackle Traised a storm in Serbia among journal- She painted a disturbing picture of a reporting and free, critical voices. been banned. the phenomenon. ists and media observers. media scene in Serbia in which there As the pro-government national “How is it possible that something is apparently no room any longer for broadcaster, Pink, may now try to step that [the former strongman Slobodan] shows such as hers. in and replace B92 as the leading news Continued on page 3 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Police who Continued from page 1 Continued from page 1 assaulted PM’s PRESS REVIEW brother suspended DANAS, October 2nd Putin tests Russian NO CHETNIK INSIGNIA AT Five members of the special MILITARY PARADE Gendarmerie police unit were st Talk suspended on October 1 for Despite a Serbian policy of beating up the Prime Min- Serbia in brief power on Belgrade visit ister’s brother, Andrej Vučić, rehabilitating the wartime royalist and his security team. An Yugoslav Chetnik movement, no show’s death investigation into the case is Chetnik insignia will be displayed ongoing. Members of the Gen- during the military parade darmerie assaulted the men marking the 70th anniversary in Belgrade on September 28th of the liberation of Belgrade on th raises fears when the Gay Pride parade October 16 , Defence Minister was taking place. Some media Bratislav Gašić told Danas daily. reports said Vučić and his The reason for that is that “the team refused to show their Chetniks did not participate in the for Serbia IDs while trying to cross police liberation of Belgrade in WWII,“ lines guarding the parade. Gašić noted. Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić has, however, dismissed INFORMER, October 2nd media such claims. FLOOD-HIT ROADS REBUILT TO TIMETABLE Balkan states cut he management said B92 led us to question whether the owners had offered Bećković a truly aim to develop a serious info chan- mobile roaming Serbia rebuilt 142 kilometres charges chance to continue broad- nel, or whether this is just a way to ditch of flood-demolished roads by casting on its low-viewer rat- ‘Utisak Nedelje’, and then very soon ‘In- October 1st, as was promised, Following the EU’s example, ing cable channel, B92 Info, sajder’ as well,” the journalists said in a Transport and Infrastructure afterT November. statement. regulators in four Balkan Minister Zorana Mihajlović told Announcing its decision, B92 said the “Insajder”, which B92 has aired since countries - Montenegro, Bos- the daily Informer. “We still have overall aim was to focus more on enter- 2004, is one of the few investigative pro- nia and Herzegovina, Macedo- to repair landslides and bridges, tainment and commercial programmes grammes on Serbian television today. It Olja Bećković and her programme “Utisak Nedelje” have been on air since 1991. Photo by Media Centre Belgrade nia and Serbia - on September while transforming the by far less- has received numerous awards. Branka th and our plan is to finish that by 29 agreed to slash mobile watched cable channel, B92 Info, into a Stanković, the anchor, has been under will easily replace the position that B92 the only national frequency TV broad- But, according to information BIRN has the end of this year,“ Mihajlović phone roaming charges, which high quality informative channel. police protection since 2010. once held. casting live press conference from the obtained, the agency is not intending to are much higher than in West- said, adding that money had been “I am not sure they will manage to do government,” Matić added. react to the change in B92’s programme ern Europe. The agreement ensured for the work. SWITCH BLAMED NO ONE TO FILL THE GAP so but RTS should be reminded that al- “While the channel that traditionally concept, as existing laws in the field do signed in Budva, Montenegro, ON POLITICS though B92 was a commercial station, had credible reporting [B92] is going into not provide specific instructions for such nd prescribes fees being cut in KURIR, October 2 Media experts say B92’s switch to en- it used to fulfil the role that the pub- a ditch, Pink is becoming the lead source action. phases over three years. Ko- POLICE CHIEFS BLAMED FOR While B92 has justified its decision to tertainment programmes will leave the lic broadcaster is supposed to have,” of information for the audience that Boban Tomić told BIRN that broad- sovo, Albania and Turkey have EMBASSY ATTACKS switch to entertaining programmes on media scene impoverished. Obradović said. “Now RTS should step in.” it gained through its entertaining pro- casters are obliged to keep to the original the grounds of commercial interests, “I would be glad for some other station Jovanka Matić, a media expert, told grammes,” Matić continued. programme concepts that they outlined been invited to be part of the Bećković and other journalists express with a national frequency to become a BIRN that there was a political back- when they got their licences. new lower-price roaming zone. A working group investigating strong doubts. symbol of independent, objective and ground to the significant changes occur- BALANCE BECOMING LOST However, the state “has not defined… the torching of the US and Bećković said she could not accept that unbiased journalism - but I do not see ring on the media scene in Serbia. the extent to which programmes may Serbia urged to German embassies in Belgrade B92’s decision was led by profit concerns anyone in Serbia becoming that,” Boban “This government needs public sup- When TV stations competed to obtain be modified during the duration of the reconsider sanctions in 2008 after Kosovo declared because her show was the most-watched Tomić, a professor at the Faculty for Me- port for the reforms it needs to conduct national frequencies in 2006, they all were license,” he explained. on Russia independence has blamed three programme on the entire station and one dia and Communications, told BIRN. and such support in Serbia can only be obliged to submit their general programme Bećković, meanwhile, fears there will The source says Putin’s visit to Belgrade is Moscow’s way of demonstrating its power in the Balkans. Photo by Alexei Druzhinin senior police officials for failing to of the few that earned money. Vukašin Obradović, head of the Inde- obtained through the media,” she said. concepts. These concepts were one of the be no reaction to media scene change ei- Johannes Hahn, the EU’s new control the violent street protests. “They offered me 30 per cent more pendent Journalists Association of Ser- “This influence is rather authoritarian… factors that the Broadcasting Agency con- ther at home or abroad. neighborhood and enlarge- xperts believe that Putin is tween Putin and Belgrade would in- tions analyst, said the visit comes at a However, whether the officers will money to transfer to cable channel. How bia, NUNS, was one of the organisers of a They do not want to have any media that sidered when it issued licences. Back in 1990s, she said, “European insti- making use of the 70th anni- clude the South Stream gas pipeline time when both Brussels and Moscow could it be profitable to pay me more - and protest against the cancellation of “Utisak maintain a critical distance,” Matić added. Thus, when the stations obtained per- tutions would have reacted but now you ment commissioner, on face charges remains unclear, October 1st urged Serbia to versary celebration to consol- and Serbian food exports to Russia. are pressuring Serbia to line up with send me to a channel where I cannot earn Nedelje” on September 28th in front of B92 She believes that the more pro-govern- mits to broadcast nationally, a balance see that this does not concern them”, she Kurir said it had learned from consider its decision not to idate Serbian influence in Ser- After the Kremlin banned imports of their side. them anything?” Bećković asked on Sep- building. ment channel, Pink, which has gained a was struck between stations with an en- said. police. th support EU sanctions against bia, where the government is food from the EU in response to West- “Both Russia and the Western coun- tember 29 . He said the protest was not only about huge public following from its entertain- tertainment-based profile and others that “They [Europeans] have their own pri- tryingE to balance traditional ties to Slavic ern sanctions, Serbian producers spied tries are now trying to bring their allies B92 journalists who work for the sta- Bećković’s show but reflected “deep con- ment programmes, is stepping in to take accented news. orities and as long as the [Serbian] govern- Russia in connection to the Russia with aspirations to join the EU. a new opportunity to place products in closer in line. Russia’s interest now is to BLIC, October 2nd tion’s investigative show, “Insajder”, have cern about the narrowing of the freedom the lead role among commercial stations Experts say that balance is being lost, ment follows them, it can do whatever it crisis in Ukraine. Hahn said Serbia, meanwhile, has its own agen- the Russian market. confirm its influence in Southeastern TEACHERS’ PROTESTS meanwhile expressed concern about the of thought and expression” in general. in informing the public. and doubt the Broadcasting Agency will wants on other issues,” she added. that if Belgrade wanted to da. It wants to send Europe a message However, Brussels then warned Ser- Europe,” Jakšić told BIRN. ‘UNREALISTIC’ fate of their own programme. “Although B92 has already commer- “The huge change that we are witness- do much to re-establish it. “He [Prime Minister Vučić] knows that move further in the direction that it has an alternative to the EU path, bia, as an EU candidate country, against “Serbia’s current neutrality over The team, whose show is also due to cialised its programming… it has played ing is that Pink is profiling itself as a me- “The Broadcasting Agency has given and enjoys it,” Bećković told RTV Vojvo- of EU membership, “the signal in order to improve its negotiating posi- “exploiting new trading opportunities Ukraine actually benefits Russia, not After four education unions transfer to B92 Info, said they had asked an important role concerning pluralism dia outlet with an important informative up following up whether televisions are dina. [it sends concerning Rus- tion with Brussels. arising from the introduction of these the EU,” Jakšić added. for more time to prepare for the change. in the media,” Obradović told BIRN. role,” she said. respecting their programme concepts,” “In the Nineties, you had some hope, announced protests against sia] will have to be the right Serbia is one of only a few European [Russian] measures”. Jelena Milić, director of the Centre “The insistence of B92’s owners that He believes that the role of Serbia’s “They are strengthening their capaci- Matić said. you fought and you won. And now the wage cuts in the public sector, one”. Hahn officially takes up countries not to have imposed sanc- Brussels has also put pressure on for Euro-Atlantic Studies, CEAS, a think this starts in November, when it is clearly public broadcaster will now grow, owing ties for news and political programmes, In theory, the agency might establish same things we fight against are back. Education Minister Srđan Verbić his post on the Commission tions on Russia in response to its role in Belgrade to abandon its plans to partici- tank, said she doubted that Putin’s visit impossible to prepare a serious pro- to the lack of competition in news pro- as we all witnessed when they reported that the initial concept has been violated People have nothing to hope for,” she con- on November 1st. Following the crisis in Ukraine. pate in the Russian-run South Stream was Belgrade’s own idea. said that they had every right gramme scheme in such a short time, has grammes. However, he doubts that RTS on the [May] floods - and when they were and issue a warning to the broadcaster. cluded. Hahn’s statement, Aleksandar Belgrade has maintained a neutral pipeline. “I believe the Russians invited them- to feel dissatisfied. However, position in the dispute, while reaffirm- The EU maintains that South Stream selves. They want to test their position Vučić, Serbian Prime Minister, “excluding the education sector ing that it respects the territorial integri- is not being built in line with EU stand- and importance in Serbia,” Milić said. declined to refer directly to the from planned salary reductions ty of Ukraine, including its sovereignty ards, which Serbia needs to follow as a “The parade was only definitively is not possible”, Verbić told Blic Russian issue. Serbia would in Crimea. candidate country. Brussels also wants announced after Putin confirmed his “certainly continue reforms, Putin is visiting Belgrade on October to reduce Europe’s dependence on Rus- visit. The celebration is just an excuse,” daily. He added that his ministry continue on its path towards 16th at the invitation of Serbian Presi- sian energy. she added. “It will draw attention away had worked hard to improve the EU and do its best to dent Tomislav Nikolić. However, the EU source told BIRN from the fact that in just one week, Ser- teachers’ positions. meet all its obligations”, he “Talks with Tomislav Nikolić and that the Serbian government was still bia made three important steps, deep- remarked. conversations with Serbian Prime Min- trying to use the current standoff be- ening ties to the West.” INFORMER, October 2nd ister Aleksandar Vučić are to focus on tween Russia and Europe for its own One came at September 25th, when B92 TV OWES BANK RENT Students protest key issues of bilateral cooperation, pri- benefit. Serbia announced it would soon sign over funding cuts marily in trade and the economy,” Pu- The visit will certainly boost the gov- an Individual Partnership Action Plan Serbia’s flagship broadcaster B92 tin’s office said. ernment’s popularity among ordinary as part of the Partnership for Peace, PfP, owes more than €800,000 in rent Around 500 students of The high-profile nature of the visit Serbs, who mostly cherish Russia as an programme between Serbia and NATO. has raised eyebrows among diplomats. historic ally. All of this could be used to The PfP programme is the first stage to the National Bank of Serbia. Belgrade University blocked Michael Kirby, the US ambassador to increase Serbia’s negotiating position towards membership of NATO. B92’s leadership was informed the streets in the center of the Serbia, complained that the purpose of with the EU. Aleksandar Vučić, the Prime Minis- earlier this week that the bank will st city on October 1 to protest the visit remained unclear. Food exports would only be a mi- ter, has also assured Washington of its not tolerate the debt any longer. against amendments to the “Why is he coming? To attend the cel- nor item on the agenda, the EU source complete support in the US-led fight “The debt has to be repaid or Law on Higher Education. ebration of the liberation of Belgrade? remarked. “Serbia cannot produce against the Islamic State militants in the bank will block its account Students protested against Belgrade was liberated also by the enough food to be important for the Iraq and Syria. and move the TV station out of new regulations that have Third Ukrainian Army, as a part of the Russian market,” the source said. Finally, bowing largely to EU pressure the building,” Informer quoted a cancelled numerous financial Red Army,” the diplomat asked earlier “What Putin wants is to show that his on this issue, on September 28, Serbia source from the National Bank as subsidies and benefits and the this month. power stretches further than Ukraine. also ensured the success of the first saying. deadline in which students’ “If Putin is invited, are all others who The visit is his demonstration of power Gay Pride parade in Belgrade in several must finish their studies. They participated in the liberation [of Bel- in Southeastern Europe. “He wants to years. grade] also invited?” Kirby added. show that Russia can disturb the Bal- “These three things have all signifi- BIRN has not verified the have announced a major A source from the EU told BIRN that kans,” the source added. cantly distanced Serbia further from reports and cannot vouch for th protest on October 15 . the main topics up for discussion be- Boško Jakšić, an international rela- the Russian regime,” Milić observed. their accuracy. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Belgrade-Tirana direct flights launched City Air Serbia, the country’s national airline, re-established regular service between Belgrade and Tirana on September 27th after a Last pre-war vows to tackle five-year hiatus. There are now flights three times a week, on

Belgrade in brief in brief Belgrade Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. “The re-introduction of services illegal Roma to Tirana benefits more than two million of the Albanian diaspora in Europe with increased travel options salon is hair to stay and connectivity over our Belgrade settlements hub to their homeland,” said Air Serbia’s Chief Executive Officer, Having survived plains, recalling the many people who Dane Kondić, adding that the flights have signed their names so far. ing the night between September 25th could also boost tourism to Albania. The walls are covered with framed The city authorities and 26th in an illegal settlement in New wars and various clips from different newspapers that Belgrade. A cardboard hut in which Europe’s children gather have carried reports on the salon, but promised to they lived reportedly caught fire after for dance festival changes of one item of memorabilia stands out – finally help the a candle fell on paper and they couldn’t a replica on the wall of a French street escape the flames. The annual gathering of children regime, the plaque that says “Avenue of King Peter”. inhabitants of the Following the children’s death, their from around Europe to showcase Veselinov says he got the real street mother was arrested for threatening their cultures through music and family-run sign from a customer who stole it from illegal settlements public safety, the prosecution said. dance, ‘Joy of Europe’, will take nd th the street in Paris and gave it to him in after three Roma The accident put the neglected ille- place from October 2 to 5 . The Gentlemen’s 1988. gal settlements on the public agenda, festival brings together children Veselinov now has a replica of it for children died when highlighting the threats to people living aged from seven to fourteen from Hairdresser Salon his salon, while the original hangs on a in such huts made from cardboard car- all around Europe and will start wall in one of Belgrade’s oldest kafanas, a cardboard hut tons without water or electricity. with a carnival and procession the cafe “?”. “In these wild settlements, fires through the centre of the city. is still in business, While his father, Sava, opened the burned down in New happen almost every day,“ Darko As well as displays of traditional salon before the Second World War, Glavaš, the head of city utilities service dance and music, there will be an after 76 years. Veljko took over the shop in 1983. Belgrade. Beokom, told Večernje Novosti. art competition, an entertainment “My father used to play football for Another problem remains the lack programme at Ada Ciganlija, a gala the Yugoslav national team and the he city of Belgrade of any precise headcount of the people concert at the Sava Centre and a whole of the Red Star football club used will adopt strategic living in such accommodation, Glavaš big party to conclude the festivities. Ivana NIKOLIĆ documents in order said. to improve the po- “The majority of the inhabitants have Mayor announces five ntering the Gentlemen’s sition of the Roma no identification documents, which is new industrial zones Hairdresser Salon at I want “Tpeople in Belgrade, and one of the main why we cannot have a precise num- Terazije 13 is like travel- goals will be solving the housing prob- ber. Nevertheless, our estimation that The new city master plan, which is to ling back in time to the to keep lem of families living in illegal settle- 100,000 people are living in those set- be adopted early next year, envisages 1930s, when the salon first ments,“ Jasmina Ivanović, the city’s sec- tlements is based on fieldwork, and the establishment of five new Eopened. this retary for welfare, told daily newspaper around 30,000 of them are children,” industrial zones in the capital, the The equipment of the salon, which Večernje Novosti on Septmeber 28th. Glavaš said. mayor of Belgrade, Siniša Mali, has opened before the Second World War going The authorities’ promise came after There are reported to be around 200 announced. Lots of companies and factories will be located close to main in 1938, is neatly stacked on a shiny three Roma children died in a fire dur- illegal settlements in Belgrade. About 30,000 children live in illegal settlements in Belgrade. Photo by Susan/Flickr wooden desk. In front of large mirrors - that roads in order to be more attractive stands a row of old-fashioned hair- to potential investors. According dresser’s chairs. is what I am to the City’s Department of Urban On these chairs once sat Serbia’s “ Planning and Construction, incentives Crown Prince, Petar Karađorđević, as will be given to projects that are most well as numerous politicians, sports- fighting for.” Belgrade named cheapest likely to create new jobs. men, artists, ambassadors and other notable people who come here to have Belgraders told to get their hair cut. Veljko Veselinov European destination ‘EU-style’ post-boxes “We have been here at the same ad- Veljko Veselinov shows his famous chairs that date back to 1938. dress for 76 years,” Veljko Veselinov, ith daily tourist expenses of someone forgot to bring them on the Belgrade residents have been told to the owner, says proudly, as we sit at a to come here,” the 62-year-old says. Since the salon opened, many things elinov continues, without naming his his hair was cut, he pulled out his wallet Serbia’s capital tops €41 on average, Belgrade is trip,” he added. change their old post-boxes and buy table in front of his salon. “One thing that he taught me is that have changed beyond recognition in clients. and handed over an identity card. the cheapest European city ADAC’s research team concluded new ones that meet EU standards the list of the 20 most W st As he stands up and walks into this craft is learned in the salon, not at Serbia. The clients switched from roy- Nowadays, however, it is getting hard- “I’ve asked him why I would need his to visit, ADAC, the largest automobile that for €12 a day, a tourist in Belgrade by January 1 or face fines. The the shop, Veselinov points to the fa- school,” he adds. alty to communist leaders. Hairstyle er to survive, he says. “Fifteen years ago, ID card and he replied ‘So you can sue affordable tourist club in Europe, said this month. can pay for public transport, go on a Regulatory Agency for Electronic mous chairs that date back to 1938, Veselinov was not always a hair- trends have changed again and again. I used to have eight employees,” Vesel- me, because I am not going to pay.’ “We compared restaurant prices, guided tour, visit a zoo and the Kale- Communications and Postal Services just like the vast majority of things in dresser. He helped his father during Although it describes itself as a “gen- inov says. Now there are only two. “Then he said goodbye, but came destinations in prices of tourist attractions, museums, megdan fortress as well as get a ticket says that the standardisation of the salon. his school days, earning pocket money. tlemen’s salon”, women are now also As Serbia’s cash-strapped govern- back in a few seconds later, as he had guided tours, daily public transport for the National Museum. post-boxes is necessary so that “These chairs were ideally made, But back in those days, it was just a part- customers and Veselinov is especially ment cuts salaries and pensions in pur- forgotten his briefcase. I never saw him Europe, says a new fares, as well as things tourists need At the other end of the list lies Norwe- people can receive packages properly. which is obvious - they still work,” he time job. proud of one former client. suit of austerity policies, “people don’t after that,” Veselinov says. survey by German during the day – snacks and postcards,“ gian capital Oslo, where a tourist would Replacement boxes cost between says with a smile. “Both a boy and a After he graduated with a master’s “One of my clients was the late Veri- feel like having their hair cut,” Vesel- He hopes that the family tradition Wolfgang Sigler, a survey coordinator at have to spend around €150 a day and five and fifteen euros, and next year man weighing as much as 200 kilos can degree in economics, he found a job in ca Barać. She was a great woman, and inov remarks. will survive and that the guestbook automobile club ADAC, told Deutsche Welle. a similar daytime programme would inspectors will be deployed with the sit here. In those days, craftsmen knew the government. But, one day, he quit. I admire intelligent and brave women,” However, on the day of our visit, will continue to fill up if his younger “We also compared prices of body cost €70, according to ADAC. ability to levy fines for non-compliance their job,” Veselinov adds. “I left my job to save my father’s salon,” the hairdresser says, recalling the for- there is no shortage of customers. “To- daughter takes over. His elder daughter ADAC. care products and cosmetics, in case ranging from €20 to €50. The history of the salon and its clien- the ex-economist explains. mer head of Serbia’s Anti-Corruption day, I do have a couple of clients,” he already runs her own salon. tele is preserved in a guestbook. Only “As Miodrag Bulatović, a very kind cli- Council. says, looking at his wristwatch. “I want to keep this going - that is customers may write their names in it. ent of mine and a great writer, wrote in “Alisa Marić, a chessplayer, also Not all of them pay up. He recalls one what I am fighting for,” he says. “Work- “The only condition for filling the guest- my guestbook – what is important is tra- comes here, as well as some ambassa- client who came in dressed like a per- ing with people can be hard, but it’s nice book is being a client,” Veselinov ex- dition and durability,” Veselinov recalls. dors and government ministers,” Ves- fect gentleman with a brief case. After as well,” he concludes.

CITY GUIDE Available at: Tourist Organisation of Belgrade Knez Mihailova 5, +381 (11) 2635 622 Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 732 Nikola Tesla Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 Belgrade Port, Karađorđeva

f you walk down Knez Mihailova Street, you’re likely to see Hotel Moskva graffiti of a bulldog with thought bubbles offering philosophical FREE PULL OUT MAP OF BELGRDAE Terazije 20, +381 11 3642 000 slogans to passers-by. Called Yoda after the ‘Star Wars’ charac- FREE SIM CARD Hotel Excelsior ter, the dog is the work of an artist called Nique, who says his Kneza Miloša 5, +381 11 3231 381 APROPO intention is to inspire pedestrians and make them think. “I want TOP SIGHTSEEING LOCATIONS Bookstore and tearoom Supermarket concept store Cara Lazara 10 to bring more positive energy and laughter to people,” he told PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP Višnjićeva 10, +381 11 2910 942 +381 11 2625839 dailyI newspaper 24 Sata. This one reads “Ignorance creates fear”, and is GUIDED TOURS THROUGH BELGRADE followed by one that says “Fear creates violence”. Hotel Townhouse 27 At the Belgrade Airport WIDE SELECTION OF CLUBS, HOTELS, Maršala Birjuzova 56, +381 11 2022 900 Hudson news odlasci / departures RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND Booking Rooms Hostel Hudson news dolasci / arrivals Kralja Petra 30, +381 63 29 39 39 Hudson news čekiranje / check in Hidden Belgrade ENTERTAINMENT VALUE www.bookingrooms.rs Hudson news transit zona / transit 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 7 ADVERT BUSINESS

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About a unique concept of WellnessLand Center: Saša Ranđelović believes Serbia could earn €150- €200 million from taxes and contributions due to the reduction in illegal work. Photo by Media Centre Belgrade Conceptually, WellnessLand is very close to Western clubs with exclu- sive membership. Our members appreciate their own privacy, as well as ut they also warn that without One problem is that the tax incentives “Joint actions with the tax office, coop- respecting the privacy of other people. Whether you’re here because of significant reforms of the tax aimed at stimulating the growth of official eration with the central social insurance exercise, spa zone, pool, body treatment or some combination of the of- Map artwork by system, cutting the tax burden employment are modest. register and support from the police have fered services, alone or in company, time spent in WellnessLand will relax GANOO DISTRICT STUDIO FOR CONTEMPORARY ART on modest salaries, not much The relief measures are also only all contributed to the results,” they added. you and prepare you for your various business and private challenges. Our progress can be expected. temporary, as there is no room in the For example, in one inspection, inspec- permanent members come mostly by way of reccomendation, and we ob- B squeezed budget for permanent reduc- tors found that 96 out of 135 employees of viously have more than a good reputation among foreign guests of our city, REDUCING THE SHADOW tions of the fiscal burden on labour, a shoe manufacturer in southern Serbia because they keep coming back every time they return to Belgrade. 15 19 20 25 36 ECONOMY Ranđelović said. were working without contracts. Since the inspection, half of that num- About the excellent Recent research on the shadow econo- IMPROVING ber have received contracts while oth- atmosphere in SkyWellness Club: my in Serbia suggests that it is responsible REGULATIONS ers are in the process of registering, they In SkyWellness Club, we have a luxury of the best view in town. If you for as much as 31 per cent of Serbia’s GDP. maintained. have ever heard those incredible stories about a night life on Belgrade’s riv- If correct, that would be around 5 per Inspections are one of the main tools ers, the early-morning or day exercise with a perfect view on those same cent more than in the other countries of for tackling unregistered labour, but REVENGE OF THE rivers will render you speechless! SkyWellness Club is young and full of OIL WORKSHOP. ECO ART. GIFT SHOP. Central and Eastern Europe. their achievements have not been im- ENTREPRENEURS positive energy, and a favorite city spot when it comes to best quality exer- HANDMADE HOMEWARE DESIGN FROM Edible oils, natural handmade cosmetics, gifts Made in Serbia Body Piercing, Piercing jewelry Saša Ranđelović, an economist, said pressive. cise. Sauna, various kinds of body treatments, and services of professional VINTAGE TO PROVCATIVE Silver and stainless steel rings, necklaces, Gallery of unique items Serbia should strive to reduce the shad- Employers’ associations complain However, some entrepreneurs say the trainers are also available to our guests. Working hours: Tel: +381 60 44 24 777; +381 64 26 38 210 bracelets, Leather bracelets Mon-FriL 12:00-20:00, Sat: 12:00-16:00 The BEST COFFEE in town Jewelry, fashion accessories, original gifts. ow economy to the same level as those about the unfair competition they face inspection system is still not working. www.holigiftshop.rs E-mail: [email protected] Phone: +381 11 33 44 905 Phone: 011 334 3376 countries over the next few years. from unregistered companies, over They say that the aim is not to tackle About an incredible equipment: 060/15-33-088, 060/461-24-43 FB: www.facebook.com/allnutbelgrade www.remakehome.net www.facebook.com/bebeautybg “This would bring in an about €300 which labour inspections have had no the shadow economy, but to increase On both locations, we offer our guests exclusively the equipment made million in extra tax, which is another 1 per control. budget revenues by charging lawful com- by renowned Italian manufacturer Technogym. We are aware that multi- 40 43 44 46 48 cent of GDP,” he noted. At the same time, companies that oper- panies with yet more penalties. tasking and clever utilization of every single moment are essential to mod- THE ARTWORKSHOP He said that €100-€150 million of this ate legally and above board are routinely “All inspections try to fill the budget ern living, and that’s the reason why you can, while excercising, check your GANOO DISTRICT would come from curbing illegal trading visited by inspectors and often fined for and prove themselves to their respective email, talk via Skype, leave your status on social networking services, or STUDIO FOR CONTEMPORARY ART in goods and services and another €150- multiple offences. ministers,” Žarko Milisavljević, the head just watch an episode of your favorite sitcom. Design, functionality and €200 million from growth in revenues The announced adoption of the new of one private chamber of commerce, high quality of Tecnogym equipment are unmatched. Technogym is our from taxes and contributions due to the law on inspections should make inspec- said. first choice, because we do not compromise when it comes to the quality Marija Hand Made makes clothes from reduction in illegal work. tions more effective by allowing inspec- The fines levied on small and medium- of our services. Gallery exibits paintings of D.M.Tapi, well Backpacker prices, cool music, free Wi-Fi natural materials that are in tune internet, friendly staff, willing to help “The effective suppression of unreg- tors to monitor unregistered labour more sized companies were also too high, he known Serbian painter-hipperrealist, Fashion studio,Handmade with your heart & soul including selling giftshop. workshop,Unique garment and accessories Working hours: Mon-Fri: 12-20h, Sat: 10-18h istered trading in goods and services easily. added. Working hours: Mon-Sat 10-01 Working hours: mon.-fri.: 12h-19h, sat.: 12h-16h Čumićevo sokače 48 would close off a substantial source of Some improvements have already “Work in the grey zone is a form of Phone: +381 11 323 06 72; +381 63 864 88 52 http://ganoo.free.fr Phone: +381 11 3244 320, +381 64 198 39 66 Phone: +381 60 44 88 300, +381 60 0960240 funding for undocumented workers and been made with the adoption of amend- revenge that entrepreneurs take on the e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 063 7398605 [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] email: [email protected] email: [email protected] wages, which would contribute to reduc- ments to the existing Labour Law. state, for the high penalties they charge,” www.dmtapi.com FB: www.facebook.com/Autorke www.marijaivankovic.com ing undeclared work,” he observed. Penalties have also been raised on he continued. Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić told companies employing unofficial work- “For every charge they are made to 49 56 82 state TV RTS on September 18th that the ers to between 800,000 and 2,000,000 pay, they immediately look to compen- government intended to do more to tack- dinars [€6,700 to €16,800]. sate for that loss in the shadow economy.” le the grey economy, calling on ordinary The Labour Inspectorate told BIRN This businessman said that without people to insist on proper receipts for pur- that, from June to mid-September, they changes to tax policy and without reduc- chases. increased the number of extraordinary tions of the tax burden on low earners, In May, the government introduced a inspections, especially in the security, employers will not change their minds package of relief measures for employers construction, catering and fruit and veg- when it comes to giving contracts to their THINK OF YOURSELF AND willing to give contracts to their unregis- etable processing industries. workers. Working hours: Mon-Fri: 12-20h, Sat: 10-18hINVEST IN YOUR HEALTH ALL ABOUT CERAMICS AND PORCELAIN Spa and wellness centers in ALLSerbia. ABOUT CERAMICS AND PORCELAIN tered workers. “The result of preventive actions, tar- “There are no quick solutions,” he UNISEX HAIR SALON Phone: +381 64 25 88 421Čumićevo sokače 48 Phone: +381 64 25Your 88 421 Logo Here Your Logo Here However, in spite of this and other in- geted controls and effective treatment is warned. “Even if the tax burden was low- Working hours: mon-fri 12-20h, sat 12-17h FIRST FLOOR Working hours: mon-fri 12-20h, sat 12-17h Phone: +381 60 44 88 300, +381 60 0960240 centives, the total number of registered that employers have given contracts to ered, it would still take from three to five Phone: +381 11 3341 670, [email protected]: [email protected] Phone: +381 11 328-3542, [email protected] employees in Serbia remains lower in 12,240 persons [over this period],” they years for most employers to quit the grey +381 63 850 25 15 http://gallery1250.comwww.marijaivankovic.com +381 1126-27-049 http://gallery1250.com 2014 than in 2013. said. zone.” 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 9 REGION OUT AND ABOUT Missing teen’s family blame Macedonian police

lim religious garment, a Burqa, a full body Relatives of a and face cloak. “While the children befriended young Macedonian girl Muslims in Belgium, nobody was paying much attention because their religion A promenade at Kalemegdan Park overlooking the Sava River. Photo by Viktor Markovic/Flickr who has vanished does not matter at all,” the girl’s cousin - and is believed told BIRN. According to the family’s own inquir- to have joined ies, on the day of her disappearance the girl boarded the early morning Turkish Islamists in Syria Airlines flight to Istanbul. Security cameras at Skopje airport - say police were show that the girl was pointing her head down while passing passport control, slow to react to apparently checking something in her purse. reports of her This is how she probably managed to fool the police into thinking that her sis- disappearance. ter’s picture in the passport was her own. Police sources have told BIRN that a group of three people from Belgium Saše DIMOVSKI was most probably behind the girl’s de- parture. The sources say the trio arrived y granddaughter from Belgium one day earlier and took is not the only off in the same plane that took the girl to one recruited to Istanbul. go to Syria,” said The Macedonian police have not con- Macedonian missing teen might be one of many European girls who fled to fight in Syria. Photo by Michał Huniewicz/Flickr the grandfather firmed these claims. They say they have of“M the 15-year-old girl who has been miss- me and know how I feel when I wear the her stuff was missing, along with her sis- The Interior Ministry confirmed that “no information on whether the girl had ing from Macedonia since July 15th - and Burqa,” - reinforcing the family’s fears that ter’s passport. the grandmother of the girl reported an escort on her flight to Istanbul”. who is believed to have joined Syrian Is- she has joined Islamist militants in this “We immediately went to the police her as missing and stated that “all nec- A 16-year-old friend from France was lamists. country. station in Gjorce Petrov [suburb of Skop- essary measures according to the po- the first to convey a message from the girl He said he had wanted to alert the pub- The case bears a strong resemblance je]. At that time, the plane to Istanbul was lice procedures have been taken for to her parents that she “had started a new People playing chess can be seen in Kalemegdan Park at almost any time. Photo by Stephanie Yoder/Flickr Čabrić Ružica Church is one of the oldest churches in the capital. Photos by Pascal Willuhn/Flickr lic right away about his granddaughter to other cases of girls of a similar age from still in the air and, if the police had reacted finding the girl. life, which she will enjoy and be happy in”. but the police dissuaded him from doing Bosnia, Austria and Germany who have promptly, the case might have ended dif- “Having in mind that the girl lives in This message drew a response from the so for two months. also gone to Syria. ferently. Liege, Belgium, the Belgian authorities French police, who, according to BIRN’s “The police advised me to keep silent, However, this is the first case from “But it was shocking when they told us were immediately contacted. Because of sources, started investigating an organ- so as not to harm the investigation. They Macedonia of a girl from an Orthodox that they could not do anything before 24 suspicions that the girl had left for Syria, ised system of recruiting similarly aged kept assuring me that the girl would Christian family allegedly joining Syrian hours had passed, in order for a person to other services were contacted as well,” it girls. This information has been shared come back,” the grandfather said in mid- jihadist fighters. be considered missing,” he continued. added. with Interpol, which is now searching for September. The pensioner said that everything During that time, the teen managed to “We are continuing to cooperate with the girl. Hidden treasures The man, known only as V. Z. - he has seemed normal when the girl and her old- reach Syria, her grandfather said. “While all of our friendly services in order to lo- Media reports in the region speculate insisted on remaining anonymous - said er sister, aged 19, arrived from Belgium. we were stuck persuading the police to cate, find and bring the girl back,” the Inte- that some 600 ethnic Albanians have his granddaughter was living in Belgium The children visited their grandparents act, and while they kept repeating ‘the rior Ministry continued. joined the war in Syria on the side of Is- with her parents. in Macedonia each summer and their procedures’ to us, the police at Gjorce A 26-year-old cousin of the girl told lamist rebels, and that over 50 of them She was on her summer vacation at parents were due to follow shortly. Petrov redirected us to report the case to BIRN that the family later found out from have been killed in the fighting. Media her grandparents’ home in Macedonia The man said he did not notice any- the police station at the [Skopje] airport,” the data on her computer and from her reports say at least ten ethnic Albanians of Kalemegdan when she took a flight to Istanbul, posing thing unusual in the girl’s behaviour. She he recalled. emails that she had been secretly visit- from Macedonia have died there. as her older sister. It is presumed that she celebrated her 15th birthday in Skopje The Police Ministry has reportedly ing an Islamic religious school in Belgium This summer, Macedonia toughened went on from there to Syria. only days before she vanished. suspended the officer who was on duty for two years. During that time she had jail sentences for citizens caught fighting couples are always to be found there World War I, made the chandeliers out trians did start digging such a tunnel, A message that the girl sent to her older However, one morning the family at that time but the police have not con- learned to speak Arabic and read the Ko- in foreign conflicts or who recruit people It might be one of Belgrade’s most enjoying the panorama - and Belgrade of their swords, cannon parts, bullet but eventually gave up. sister reads: “Sis, only you understand woke up to see that the girl was gone and firmed this information to BIRN. ran. She had also obtained her own Mus- to go and fight abroad. is a city that never sleeps. cases, bullet shells and rifles. That is Curious tales explain why film direc- visited tourist attractions, but the city’s Some of those couples even end up get- why some call it “the art-of-war chapel“. tors have taken an interest in it, includ- ting married in Kalemegdan Park as well. ing the legendary Alfred Hitchcock. great park holds many secrets. HITCHCOCK’S INSPIRATION On a visit to Belgrade in 1964, he said TRENCH ART that the well had inspired him, as “that Ivana NIKOLIĆ on the Turks,” the man says, tapping his The biggest mystery in Kalemegdan, sort of environment is always a special grandson’s shoulder. Not far from the bench, below the however, is the Roman well, which treat,” he told the Belgrade media. on, have you ever Erected in 1928, designed by the Cro- Zindan Gate, lies the Ružica Church, reopened to the public in March. But it isn’t only Romans and Austri- heard the real sto- at sculptor Ivan Meštović, the monu- the oldest in the capital. Covered in ivy, Even though it is known as the “Ro- ans who once walked around Kalemeg- ry about The Vic- ment is the most recognisable of all of it is almost invisible in summer. Many man” well, it was actually built between dan Park. If you have spent some time tor?” an old man Belgrade’s many landmarks. passers-by only notice it when they 1717 and 1731 by the Austrians who in Serbia and learned the language, you Modern city hotel in a perfect location asks his grandson It is equally popular among foreign- hear the sound of trumpets, which is ruled Belgrade at the time. will know that Serbian is full of Turkish as they stand be- ers as it is among locals, who you will Serbian traditional wedding music, Its original name was the “Grand” well, words, which are a legacy of almost five “Slow the famous 14-metre-high column see strumming guitars and drinking and spot a bride and a groom and their but the Serbs who took over the fortress centuries of Ottoman rule. on a sunny late-September day. beer there, especially during hot sum- guests emerging from something that from the Ottomans in the 19th century The word Kalemegdan is one of As the boy shakes his head, the mer evenings. they only later realise is a chapel. renamed it “Roman” because they be- them, coming from words “kale” (“for- grandfather continues. It was built to However, while the column is a prized Demolished and rebuilt many times lieved that all the old constructions at tress”) and “megdan” (“battle”). 21000 Novi Sad, Serbia commemorate Serbia’s victory over landmark in Kalemegdan Park, some over several centuries, it is dedicated to the fortress dated back to Roman times. Words are not the only legacy of Ot- Ilije Ognjanovica 24 the Ottomans and Austrians during the prefer the famous bench that over- the Birth of the Virgin Mary and served To add to the confusion, it is techni- toman Turkish rule. They used to call Balkan wars and World War One, he looks the confluence of the rivers as a gunpowder warehouse in the 18th cally not actually a well but a cistern, as Kalemegdan Fićir-bajir, which is Turk- Phone: +381(0)21/66-15-555 says, but the unknown part of the tale is century. the water in it does not come from an ish for “hill of meditation”. Centuries lat- yet to come. SAVA AND DANUBE In 2009, it was named ninth out of underground spring. er, it is still a place for meditation, as you Fax : +381(0)21/422-652 The authorities initially wanted to the ten most unusual churches in Joxt’s However, hidden behind its massive may see, observing the mostly elderly place the monument in Terazije, in the Nicknamed the “love bench”, as it is Blog, alongside temples and churches ironbound wooden door, it has become chess players on Kalemegdan terrace, [email protected] city centre, but then found another loca- usually occupied by a love-sick couple, in Japan, Russia, Iceland, Brazil, Finland, a subject of numerous urban legends. contemplating their next moves. [email protected] tion in the city’s Kalemegdan Park. And it stands on a rocky ridge right below a Ukraine, Columbia, France and Norway. One says that the well contains many “Checkmate,” one says as he stands [email protected] so the grandfather explains the story. big tree. It is probably the most roman- Ružica Church came to the au- secret passages. Some believe a tun- up, puts on his hat and moves to an- “They put him here because they tic spot in the city, which is why it is thor’s attention because of its unusual nel runs from the well in Kalemegdan other bench - allowing another pair of www.hotelputnik.rs wanted him to look proudly towards mission impossible to find a seat there “trench” art. Namely, Serbian soldiers, underneath the river all the way to Ze- players to make use of Kalemegdan as the Austrians while he turns his back in the evening, even late in the night, as fighting on the Thessaloniki front on mun. Some historians say that the Aus- their own hill of contemplation. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 11 ARTS DINING OUT

“Serbia 1914” Exhibitions exhibition opens in and Events Historical Museum Salon Snapshots of a FRIDAY OCTOBER 3rd The Serbian Historical st Dining in and out - Museum has opened its 1 Tattoo Convention Day 1, Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, 11am

“Serbia 1914” exhibition Arts in brief Exhibition: Bread and The Great War, Đure to commemorate the 100th Jakšića House, Skadarska 34, 6pm Corner Wine disappearing world 4th Stand Up Fest Day 1, Dom Sindikata, anniversary of the start of Dečanska 14, 8pm World War I. It will be open SATURDAY OCTOBER 4th at the same time until January and was put together through coopera- 1st Tattoo Convention Day 2, Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, 11am tion between the Historical 4th Stand Up Fest Day 2, Dom Sindikata, and Military museums. Dečanska 14, 8pm The exhibition will pre- SUNDAY OCTOBER 5th It5 always begins sent the political, cultural, 1st Tattoo Convention Day 3, Mikser House, with a simple scientific and economic Karađorđeva 46, 11am progress of Serbia at the 4th Stand Up Fest Day 3, Dom Sindikata, question: ‘Can you Dečanska 14, 8pm start of the 1900s, through bring me the wine educational and interac- MONDAY OCTOBER 6th list’? Everything tive 3D exhibits. Exhibition: Small Format Mosaics, ULUPUDS Gallery, Uzun Mirkova 12, 7pm Delicatessen Monday – Belgrade Design Week, else that follows is First international Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 7pm saxophone festival a complex matter, WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 8th and cannot be th To celebrate the 200 Exhibition: Different Distances, group of birthday of Adolphe Sax, authors, Parobrod, Kapetan Mišina 6, 7pm measured only by the Belgian who invented THURSDAY OCTOBER 9th how much is left the saxophone, the first Exhibition: Yugoslav Art 1951-1989, Heritage in the bottle after Belgrade Saxophone House, Knez MIhajlova 46, 7pm Festival will be held from th dinner. October 10th-12th. Called SUNDAY OCTOBER 11 Saxperience, it will feature October Takeaway Fashion, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, from 5pm to 10pm Pavle GOLICIN saxophone players from Photo by Beta around the continent. The MONDAY OCTOBER 13th alon 5 is off the sorts of messages - be they texts, photos Many of the artists have focused on festival will start by focus- This year’s Exhibition: Aleksandra Prhal, Grad Cultural beaten track, a or videos - seconds after they are sent. the communist era, presenting photos ing on the use of the saxo- Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 8pm restaurant well “Now that the internet stores every- and videos from that time. One of the phone in Classical music, October Salon concealed in an thing that has ever been published on biggest is Dušica Dražić’s model named after which the focus will apartment in Ze- it, this application’s destructive poten- New City, which is made up of all sorts shift to Jazz. There will international Theatre mun. In fact, it is also be children’s pro- tial seems incredibly attractive,” ex- of buildings – ones that were built but Sa concept that is new in town contemporary grammes and educational plained Nicolaus Schafhausen, one of did not fulfill their potential, or were and somewhat innovative for seminars for young people art show uses the curators of this year’s event. later destroyed because they were FRIDAY OCTOBER 3rd the gastro scene in Belgrade: “This is an application which is alive deemed economic or aesthetic failures. related to playing the Little Marital Crimes (Schmitt), The National a restaurant whose owner/ instrument. The plan is for the theme of here and now, it is deprived of any According to another of the curators, Theatre, Francuska 1, 8:30pm chef opens the door of his memories or the idea of history,” added Gordana Dobrić, the most important “home” and leads you to your the festival to become an SATURDAY OCTOBER 4th disappearance Schafhausen, who is also a director at thing about this year’s event is that the annual event. table in the dining room. the Kunsthalle Wien. audience can easily interact with the Carnage (Reza), Atelje 212, Svetogorska 21, 8pm It is rather charming to chit- to examine Over 30 artists and art groups from art works on display. chat with the owner/chef in topped with a beautifully grilled porcini the service is still not on the same level as Iranian culture MONDAY OCTOBER 6th historical Serbia, Germany, Belgium, the United “No additional explanations are the lobby, sipping an aperitif, Salon 5 is a pioneering idea – a mushroom. The meat was marbled and in other established restaurants that are week kicks off soon States, Macedonia and Lithuania are needed, everyone interacts with the Misanthrope (Moliere), The National Theatre, which is Prosecco as usual, tender, obviously marinated. The simple within the same price range. Francuska 1, 7:30pm amnesia and the showing works at the salon this year, works in their own way. It is very easy to and going through the menu restaurant in the chef’s own home – garnish allowed the pure taste of the meat Our visit to Salon 5 was different and The Iranian Culture Week using a variety of formats including grasp them, no matter what technique THURSDAY OCTOBER 9th with no rush. to stand out – an intelligent alternative to interesting, an experience somewhere in Belgrade, which kicks However, unlike the menu, obsession with traditional media, videos, photographs has been used – be it a video, photo or Metamorphoses (Ovid), Yugoslav Drama but whether the concept quite works the usual “steak-in-sauce” style. between dining in and dining out. The off under the motto and digital images. electronic work,” Dobrić told BIRN. Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm there was no wine list here. The third main dish was the sole excep- food was excellent. We would highly rec- “Against Terrorism with the present. The event is being staged in the spa- The salon also includes other events As it is being promoted as a in Belgrade remains to be seen. tion to the otherwise Italian menu, and a ommend it to anyone who has not yet FRIDAY OCTOBER 10th the Instrument of Cul- cious rooms of the former Military and programmes, such as guided tours, top-notch restaurant with dish our host was particularly proud of had a chance to experience this concept, ture”, will be held from Ivana NIKOLIĆ Academy building - a venue that fits the conversations with the artists, film The Lonesome West (McDonagh), Belgrade above average mark-ups – fois gras. It was extraordinarily smooth or to someone who has explored the Bel- th th Drama Theatre, Mileševska 64, 8pm for Belgrade, I admit I was October 6 -9 . It starts theme perfectly. projections, seminars, workshops and and rich, melting in the mouth – the high- grade restaurant scene far and wide, and th unpleasantly surprised not to with a free concert of the isappearing Things’, as “This building is ideal for an exhibi- exhibitions, plus various programmes SATURDAY OCTOBER 11 Duda & Vlada a fully equipped professional kitchen and light of our meal. is looking for something new and hip. find a wine list in Salon 5, and Omar Bashir Group at the the 55th annual October tion which aims to connect the present aimed at children. a typical restaurant restroom. The sweets did not match the high But, with a limited choice of dishes and The Merchant of Venice (Shakespeare), to find that only a few labels Yugoslav Drama Theatre Salon is titled, focuses and the past,” the Cultural Centre of Established back in 1960 as a local Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm edefining the rules The interior is modern and minimalis- standards set by the savoury dishes. drinks, paired with the informal atmos- were available. on October 6th, followed by on the contemporary Belgrade, the organiser of the October exhibition, Belgrade’s October Salon (and cutting a cor- tic, obviously touched by a professional We had a feeling that they were too rich, phere and service, Salon 5 can hardly SUNDAY OCTOBER 12th One can agree or disagree overproduction of pho- Salon, said in a statement. turned international in 2004 and has ner or two in the designer’s hand. The cold and serene which resulted in wrong textures and reach the top grade of the Belgrade res- a screening of the movie with the choice offered here, “In the Sands of Babylon” ‘Dtographs and on our way of understand- Photographs of the Palace of Serbia hosted many prominent artists and cu- The Misunderstanding (Camus), The National process) is not unu- play of white, black and gray is brought to undesirably intense flavours. The panna taurant scene, while its prices are danger- Theatre, Francuska 1, 8:30pm but this shortage seriously th on October 7 . On October ing and remembering them. by Dušan Đorđević or Susanne Krie- rators since then. limits the possibilities of sual these days. life with interesting and unique pieces of cotta was more like a vanilla pudding ously similar. It offers a relaxed, secluded th th WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 15th 8 -9 there will be exhibi- The concept of the salon, Serbia’s man’s slideshow of a landscape near The salon is open until November making the right matches How about fine din- vintage furniture and details, collected by while the chocolate mousse lacked airi- hideaway for specific private situations, nd tions by Iranian painters leading contemporary art review, was where the Berlin Wall was built are 2 at 40b Resavska Street every day Playing the Victim (Presnyakov), The National between the wine and the ing in a restaurant the owner. ness, and was as intense as a classic choc- but in our case such occasions are rare. and photographers in the particularly inspired this year by the just some of the works of art especially except Mondays from 12 noon until Theatre, Francuska 1, 8:30pm otherwise finely prepared located in an apart- A colourful character, Nikola with his olate cake filling. Or, do we perhaps value the social com- RTS Gallery. Snapchat application, which erases all worth seeing. 8pm. food. Rment? Restaurants of this kind have been many talents doubles up here as a host, We ended our visit with an espresso ponent of dining out too much? Having said that, I left it to appearing recently all around the world, waiter, chef, sommelier, DJ and interior ristretto, the best one ever served to us in the owner/chef to combine and since last December one has oper- designer. He is running Salon 5 more or an apartment. the wines with the meals ated in Belgrade as well. less as a one-man show. He is eager to And while this one-man show can ob- Salon 5 I chose. In the event, the The old, neo-Classical building in share his views with his guests, and spent viously deliver great dishes, good enough Bordeaux blend of Sauvi- central Zemun that hosts Salon 5 is com- some time talking to us about his con- for any Belgrade restaurant, it falls down Address: Avijatičarski trg 5, Zemun 55th October Salon gnon Blanc and Semillon by pletely unmarked; you cannot tell there is cept, his Italian experience and his goals. when it comes to the service. Although Phone: +381 11 2614893, Dulong went nicely with the a restaurant inside. You ring the bell, and Salon 5 puts great care into the fresh- Nikola is probably a much better waiter +381 64 5496833 19/09 – 02/11/2014 fresh pasta with pesto. How- after you climb a couple of flights of stairs, ness of the ingredients. These are ac- than anyone he could hire, he cannot be ever the Chianti by Le Gines- www.oktobarskisalon.org a white unmarked door opens into the quired daily, based on the number of in the kitchen and in the dining room at Only by appointment tre was not rich or structured unknown – a stranger’s private quarters. table reservations. The printed menu once unless by magic… and that particular Price Guide: 2,500-3,000 dinars [€21 - enough to perfectly match Curiosity and excitement rise, bringing serves only as a guideline, and the host magic does not exist. What he achieves as €25] per person for three courses the beef tagliata. back the memories of the famous illegal recommends the dishes, depending on a one-man-show is truly impressive, but without wine Keeping in mind that the bars in the Nineties, where one never the daily catch at the markets and on the owner was not only the knew what to expect... guests’ preferences. chef but also the waiter, the Salon 5, however, is neither illegal nor We started well, with one of the house service seemed rather too ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ Disappearing improvised. There is nothing in local specialties – thin, crispy bruschetta with ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” informal. Despite that, it was regulations that prevents anyone from chicken liver paté, sprinkled with thin done by the book. RESTURANT KOVAČ opening a restaurant in their apartment, leaves of grated black truffle, fortunately things Without any intention to modern ethno restaurant cast a shadow over the glory as long as they meet health and safety in season at the time of our visit. of the kitchen, a wine list with requirements, as we learned from Niko- Homemade pasta is never to be over- www.oktobarskisalon.org Belgrade City Museum, Resavska Street 40b a more developed wine selec- la Narančić – the young chef who has looked. With homemade pesto, porcini tion would certainly benefit decided to turn his large apartment into mushrooms, zucchini and cherry tomato this kind of endeavour. All in a restaurant. – in a true Italian manner, all three were all, I am curious to see how The place is fully converted. The visi- simple, cooked al dente, fresh and deli- long this one-man show lasts tors’ area, overlooking the street, is divid- cious. Another Italian classic, Tuscan tag- in Belgrade… ed into a relaxed living room-lounge and liata, came with rocket and parmesan. a formal dining room that can accommo- The beefsteak came red as ordered, Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com ~ ~ ~ date about 20 diners. In the back, there is served with blanched spinach and 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 13 WHAT’S ON ON THE SPOT

• Aurora (pop & rock), Tramvaj, • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pmt • Music Train, Red shoes, Ada Ciganlija, ADVERTORIAL Ruzveltova 2, 10pm • RnB Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm 10pm Celebrities • Miki Solus, Grad Cultural Centre, • Rock’n’Roll Party, Pubby’s Magic CLUBBING th Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm MONDAY, OCTOBER 13 Garden, Makedonska 5, 10pm gather for • Aristotech, KPTM, Žorža Klemansoa • Gotic electro, KST, Bulevar kralja AND LIVE MUSIC 22, 11pm • Local pop/rock, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova Aleksandra 73, 10pm • DJ Mirko & Meex, Industrija Bar, 2, 10pm • Live Music Party, Dobrila, Dobračina ‘Little Buddho’ Karađorđeva 23, 11pm • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 30, 10pm • RnB and Hip Hop Night, Mr Stefan 9pm • Tanja Savić, River, Brodarska bb, premiere Treat Dark FRIDAY OCTOBER 3rd th SUNDAY OCTOBER 5 Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Destiny Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm • Taboo bend, Kafana Druga Kuća, 10pm • Karaoke, Kafana Još ovu noć, • Mashup Or Shutup, Povetarac, Staro umerous celebrities • Pop & Rock, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, Nušićeva 27, 10pm Vojislava Ilića 86, 10pm sajmište bb, 10pm 10pm th gathered in the Sava Centre Eye Circles • Nebojša Vranjevac i Alter Ego bend, TUESDAY OCTOBER 14 • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, • QueerLounge, Zavod, Kraljevića th • Džoni i Workeri, Ona moja, Vojvode Kafana Još ovu noć, Vojislava Ilića 86, 9pm on September 24 to see a Marka 1, 10pm Šupljikca 31a, 10pm 10pm • Soul night, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, premiere of the new film • Opening Night Party, Vrtoglavica, N • Barrio Populo, Inex Film, Višnjička • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 10pm THURSDAY OCTOBER 16th ‘Little Buddho’ [Mali Budo] that looks Šajkaška 15, 10pm and Eye Bags 76, 10pm 9pm • Marissa Nadler, Rex, Jevrejska 16, likely to become a local blockbuster. • Chris Eckman & Rycarda Parasol, • Battle of the bands, Lavirint, Cara 8pm • Dejan Krstović Meda i Kristina Before the film, the crew, including Dom Omladine, Dečanska 22, 10pm Dušana 13 , 10pm FRIDAY OCTOBER 10th • Nineties Night, Mr Stefan Braun, Kuzmanovska, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, Petar Strugar, Tihomir Stanić, Hristina • Fox, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće • Unplugged Duo, Red shoes, Ada Nemanjina 4, 11pm Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm Popović, and Andrija Milošević, posed Without Krsmanović 4, 11pm Ciganlija, 10pm • Teodora Toković i Miroslav Ilić, • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, • Halftones, Grad Cultural Centre, for the photographers. In the first week • Gary Beck, Asimil Hangar, Radnička • Full House Band and DJ Marko, Mr Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, Bulevar Vojvode 9pm Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm of screening, about 50,000 people in 3, 11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Mišića 11, 10pm • Rock Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, • DJ Mirko & Meex, Industrija Bar, Serbia, Montenegro and Bosnia hit the • Novo Doba Festival, Drugstore, • Tattoo Convention After Party, • Opening Night Party, Inbox, 10pm Karađorđeva 23, 11pm cinemas to watch the movie. Surgery Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, 10pm Karađorđeva 9, 11pm • RnB and Hip Hop Night, Mr Stefan • Salsa Party, Kogo boat, Bulevar Nikole • Nevena Stojanović Nency i Bogdan • Mashup Or Shutup, Povetarac, Staro WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 15th Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Tesle 10, 11pm Martinović, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, sajmište bb, 10pm • Taboo bend, Kafana Druga Kuća, • DJ Filips Blue, Industrija Bar, Dark eye circles and eye bags can Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm • Vlatko Stefanovski, Sava Centre, • Marko Žujović, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, Nušićeva 27, 10pm Karađorđeva 23, 11pm Harper’s Bazaar • Frontmen bend, Kafana Još ovu noć, Milentija Popovića 9, 8pm Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm • Nebojša Vranjevac i Alter Ego bend, • House Party, Mr Stefan Braun, leave you looking 10 years older - Vojislava Ilića 86, 10pm • Shifted, Filip Xavi, regen, Drugstore, • Black Acoustic (pop/rock & soul), Kafana Još ovu noć, Vojislava Ilića 86, Nemanjina 4, 11pm launches Serbia’s • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm 10pm • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar but this problem can be easily and • RnB Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm • Teklife Belgrade with special • Disco House, Mr Stefan Braun, • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm guests, 2044, Savski kej, 11pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm 9pm edition with a party painlessly resolved. • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, th MONDAY, OCTOBER 6 • Big Salsa Party, Mikser House, 9pm Karađorđeva 46, 10pm merican iconic fashion magazine, Harper’s • Miloš Zeka Petrović, Witch Bar, • Local pop/rock, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar Bazaar, launched its Serbia edition of the pub- Pariska 13, 10pm 2, 10pm kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm lication at a party in the Crown Plaza Hotel on volume in the lower lid and upper • Ljubiša Samardžić (Croatia) + • Angels Night, Angels, Pariska 1, 11pm September 22nd. The party gathered numerous SATURDAY OCTOBER 4th cheek areas. Bastinados + Mutogen, Inex Film, • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, KOLARAC A celebrities from Serbian fashion world, including designers Višnjička 76, 10pm With facial fillers it is possible to 9pm Verica Rakočević and Biljana Tipsarević, as well as the • Eighties, KST Klub Studenata • Chubura Boys, Lavirint, Cara Dušana restore natural volume and rectify • Miloš Zeka Petrović, Witch Bar, PROGRAMME politician Maja Gojković and actor Lena Bogdanović. Tehnike, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 13, 10pm Pariska 13, 10pm under-eye hollowness. Filler injec- 73, 11pm • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, tions can minimize the appear- • Mystic Stylez, Drugstore, Bulevar 9pm SATURDAY OCTOBER 11th ance of persistent dark circles. Despota Stefana 115, 10pm • Destiny Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, SATURDAY, 4TH SUNDAY, 12TH • Enjoy Division, Jazz bar Centar, Knez 10pm • Eighties, KST Klub Studenata Tehnike, The results can last up to a year Mihailova 6, 10pm Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, 11pm Music Gallery, 12pm Concert Hall, 11am or even longer. Under-eye filler • Dimension 5, Sioux, Skadarska 40a, th TUESDAY OCTOBER 7 • The Best of the 90s – Snap! Nock, nock Kolarac Cycle: The Kolarac Stage of Chamber injection is also quick, virtually 10pm 2Unlimited, Technotronic, C+C Music Music Workshop for Children - How Music pain free, and involves little if any • Jane Fitz - Grand Opener, Wats, to Make Music • Soul night, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, Factory, Ace of Base, Snow, La Bouche, Flute Choir Flautino Lola Classic downtime. Lomina 5-9, 6pm Author Bojan Ivković (VKV Boki) 10pm Culture Beat, Kombank Arena, Bulevar Artistic Director Ljubiša Jovanović Surgery may sometimes be the • Babylon Warchild, Ne Tamo, Grad Production: Music Centre • Blue Flower, Dom Omladine, Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, 8pm Production: Music Centre best option for patients with large Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, Admission free Dečanska 22, 8pm • Rebel Star, Dom Omladine, Dečanska Admission free 10pm bags or puffiness under the eye. • Nineties Night, Mr Stefan Braun, 22, 9pm TH SUNDAY, 5 TH For these patients, lower eyelid lift • Serbia Wonderland: Limited Nemanjina 4, 11pm TUESDAY, 14 • Detroit Swindle, Magacin Depo, surgery or cheek lift surgery may Edition – Bryan Kearney, Kryder & Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, • Tamburaši, Travnička 13, 11 Concert Hall, 11am Outlander, Magacin Depo, Travnička Music Gallery, 6pm be the solution to minimize under- 9pm • KR!Z, Luka Concrete, Klaus, Cycle: The Kolarac 3, 11pm Cycle: In collaboration with… eye hollowness and dark circles. Mihajlo, Svemirska Kafana, Savski Stage of Chamber Music • Tesseract Studio Label Night, th Concert of Music School Kosta Each patient must be evaluated WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 8 kej, 11pm Tango matinee Sava Center Summer Stage, Milentija Manojlović on an individual basis, as there are • Retro Trance Party #25, Sioux, Camerata Pančevo Popovića 9, 11pm Section for blind and pupils with Dr Saša MIŠELJIĆ many reasons why a particular • Marko Žujović, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, Skadarska 40, 11pm Producton: Music Centre • Tunnel by Mad Mole, Svemirska impaired vision person may have under-eye dark Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm • Floating Free, KPTM, Žorža Admission free Kafana, Savski kej, 11pm Production: Music Centre ne of the most com- circles. • Black Acoustic (pop/rock & soul), Klemansoa 22, 11pm • Pure Cream RnB, Club 94, Savski kej, WEDNESDAY, 8TH Admission free mon complaints Unfortunately, genetics and ag- Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm 11pm • Music Train, Red shoes, Ada Ciganlija, that patients have ing play a major role when devel- • Dj Gosha, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm WEDNESDAY, 15TH • DJ Kiza Karanovic, Industrija Bar, 10pm Music Gallery, 6pm about their eyes oping under-eye bags, so many Cycle: Music Workshop Karađorđeva 23, 11pm • Rock’n’Roll Party, Pubby’s Magic th is the appearance people will develop them despite SUNDAY OCTOBER 12 Ivan Jarić, cello Music Gallery, 6pm • House Party, Mr Stefan Braun, Garden, Makedonska 5, 10pm ofO dark circles underneath them following good lifestyle choices. Dušan Egerić, piano Cycle: Encounter with an Artist Nemanjina 4, 11pm , KST, Bulevar kralja - frequently described as “tired The skin around the eyes is • Gotic electro • Pop & Rock, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, Production: Music Centre Black Marine • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, Aleksandra 73, 10pm 10pm Admission free Marina Vesić, piano Members of Il eyes”. also the thinnest, so it is the first to 9pm • Live Music Party, Dobrila, Dobračina • Live Music Party, Lavirint, Cara Zlatko Fatzed Petković These circles may be the result show aging and fatigue. Dehydra- • Dj Gosha, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm TH 30, 10pm Dušana 13 , 10pm WEDNESDAY, 8 Production: Music Centre Divo quartet meet of facial aging. They affect both tion, stress, poor or high salt diet, • Tanja Savić, River, Brodarska bb, • Džoni i Workeri, Ona moja, Vojvode Admission free men and women of all ages and and lack of sleep, smoking, and 10pm Šupljikca 31a, 10pm Concert Hall, 8pm Belgrade fans have a variety of causes. excessive sun exposure can all Fujiko Hemming, piano (Japan) TH • Entombed A.D. Dom Omladine, • Unplugged Duo, Red shoes, Ada THURSDAY, 16 Hollowness under the eyes can contribute to making the problem Programme: Debissy, Liszt, Scarlatti, Dečanska 22, 9pm Ciganlija, 10pm be caused by a weak cheekbone worse. Chopin, Skegawa • Disco House, Mr Stefan Braun, • Belgrade Banging, Freestyler, Savski Concert Hall, 8pm ébastien Izambard, Carlos Marín, David Miller and deficient orbital rim, or by a Nemanjina 4, 11pm Free tickets kej, 11pm Choir ‘Academic Cultural Artistic and Urs Bühler, members of popular operatic pop deficiency in the fat under the eye. Three years ago Allergan Facial Aesthetic • Karaoke, Kafana Još ovu noć, FREE COPY • RnB & House Night, River, Brodarska FRIDAY, 10TH Society Ivo Lola Ribar group “Il Divo”, used the opportunity to meet their Frequently, under-eye dark circles chose Dr Saša Mišeljić as a National Facial Vojislava Ilića 86, 10pm bb, 11pm Belgrade fans, ahead of their concert held in the TH are the result of hollowness in the Aesthetic trainer. He is one of the first • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm FRIDAY, 17 S th • Nevena Stojanović Nency i Bogdan Concert Hall, 80pm Belgrade Arena on September 24 . The quartet also spent lower lid. plastic surgeons to use Juvederm Voluma Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Martinović, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, Claude Delangle, saksofon some time in a studio in the Serbian capital, recording th This hollowness can occur to patients to restore facial contour and Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade THURSDAY OCTOBER 9 Music Gallery, 6pm Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm RTS Symphony Orchestra songs for their new album in French. even among younger patients and give them a more youthful profile for up Conductor: Bojan Sudjić Belgrade Chopin Fest Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 • Filip Mitrović, Kafana Druga Kuća, is often the result of decreased to two years. • Dejan Krstović Meda i Kristina Nušićeva 27, 10pm Producton: Belgrade saxperience Production: Belgrade Chopin Fest Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić Admission free Kuzmanovska, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, • Frontmen bend, Kafana Još ovu noć, Ticket Price: 500,00 Opera BIRN editorial team: Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm Vojislava Ilića 86, 10pm Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, singers gear Gordana Andrić [email protected] up for the Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović Phone: +381 11 4030 302 premiere [email protected] TRATTORIA ingers are preparing for the Subscription & Distribution: PIZZERIA premiere of the new Opera Goran Knezevic & Theatre Madlenianum’s +381 11 4030 303 operetta, “Vienna Blood”, S th Address: Požarevačka 39 [email protected] that is scheduled for October 5 . Nebojsina 8 The libretto of the opera is by Phone: +381 11 2456 259, Mobile: +381 63 7704 456 Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. 011/3863-999 Victor Léon and Leo Stein, set to Email: [email protected] ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight [email protected] music by the composer Johann Website: www.laderma.rs COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 www.restoranamici.rs Strauss the Younger. Circulation: 4,000 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 15 GOING OUT SPORT Touch of Serbia faces dilemma Berlin at over Kosovo Ludost football fans This busy modern “Mladost, ludost” – “Youth, madness” is a common saying in Serbian, mean- Fans from Kosovo have expressed bar is often ing that craziness and youth tend to go together, so it is easy to imagine their wish to go to Belgrade to support confused with the the two clubs as one. Many people do indeed frequent both venues on the the Albanian national team in a adjoining venue at same night, so there is a crossover of patrons between the two. But, since the football match against Serbia - but it is two clubs opened, they have solidified Mladost - but has themselves as separate establishments with programmes of their own. not clear whether they will be allowed a personality all of Physically, a long hallways links the two bars together in the same building. into the stadium. its own. Therefore these are definitely sister clubs, but they offer different types of Nektar ZOGJANI nights out. Plisat fans rarely miss matches of David GALIĆ Ludost started life with a reputation lisat fan club, one of the big- the Albanian national team, in which as the calmer of the two, as it is open all gest in Kosovo, has made a number of players from Kosovo take ith the summer day and some people visit after work as it clear through the club’s part. season draw- a bar to relax in. However, since it start- Facebook page that fans But Milivoj Mirkov, security commis- ing to a close, ed building a nightly programme, it has intend to be present in Bel- sioner at the Football Association of the focus of the turned into more of a nightspot. One Pgrade’s FC Partizan stadium on October Serbia, earlier this week said that the city’s nightlife reason why it is not really a typical bar 14th when Serbia plays Albania for the match was risky because of its political once again di- is because, unlike most Belgrade bars, Euro 2016 Qualification match. connotations. rectsW itself to the Savamala area - and it is open until the early hours and does “A huge number of people wrote to “We have to follow strict UEFA proce- Plisat fans at a football match in Kosovo. Photo: Facebook Plisat Fan Page Ludost is one of the best new places to not close until about 5am at weekends. us and told us that they wish to go to dures in organizing the match. It means check out there. The club is narrow, but long. A long It can become incredibly crowded and usually the case, aged around 25 to 30. patrons are a bit older than usual but Serbia to support our team [the Alba- there will be the highest possible level of “We can only prepare the match with The prospect of a Serbia-Albania led talks on “normalising” relations. Savamala has cemented itself as the bar runs down one side and leather uncomfortable because it is so nar- Drink prices are reasonable and the they are also relaxed and casual. Lu- nian team],” a post on Plisat’s Facebook controlling the entrance of supporters, the assistance of the security services match is especially tricky, given con- Kosovo itself has no right to play in great hub for bar-hoppers and club- seating runs down the other. In be- row, but you can always head down cocktails are especially good. Ludost dost is a worthy representation of all page reads. “We’re just waiting for an selling the tickets and observing what is and the state. Even before entering the tinuing anger in Serbia over Kosovo’s international football tournaments, goers over the last few years, and this is tween the two sides are high chairs the hallway to Mladost to escape the also has an excellent line-up of domes- that Savamala has to offer – a modern, answer from the Serbian Football Asso- happening on the stands before, after and Partizan stadium, in cooperation with declaration of independence from Ser- except friendly games, as it is still not especially true when the weather gets with a little leftover room for people crowd and then return to Ludost later tic rakija brands on offer, which foreign hip, almost Berlin-style experience of ciation,” reads the note. during the game,” Mirkov told Serbia’s the police, we will have at least one more bia in 2008. a member of the international football cold and most of the riverside “splavs” to dance and circulate. The interior is on. This is especially convenient in visitors especially appreciate. a kind that had been missing in Bel- The Serbian Football Association has daily Vecernje novosti on September 24. checkpoint more than usual,” he added. Serbia has vowed never to recognise federation, FIFA. close for the season. reminiscent of most modern bars in the winter because you can visit both Overall, this is a well-rounded grade until recently. so far refused to comment on whether In addition, Mirkov expects help and Football matches have a long history Kosovo as a state and relations be- So far, Serbia has opposed Kosovo’s There is some confusion about Lu- Savamala area – minimal and neat. clubs without having to check your clubbing experience. The fact that the Kosovar fans will be allowed to en- guidance from the Serbian state in or- of raising the political and ethnic tem- tween the countries remain strained, membership of the world’s most impor- dost, as many people imagine that this This is a popular place at weekends, jacket in and out when entering and you can usually get in without a res- ter the stadium. ganizing the match in Belgrade. perature in the Balkans. although both sides have entered EU- tant football organization. club and Mladost are one and the same. and there is a good chance that you leaving. ervation doesn’t mean it’s empty or Ludost True, they are linked – but each is an en- won’t be able to get in on Fridays or The music is usually funky and jazzy, boring. The drink selection is excep- Address: Karađorđeva 44 tity all of its own. Saturdays if you come after midnight. so expect a slightly older crowd than is tional, but not too expensive. The Phone: +381 69 830 07 70 hile the Serbian champions Red Star will start its Euroleague trip Partizan will play in the Eu- playing against Istanbul’s Galatasaray Belgrade basketball th Wrocup, Red Star will join the on October 16 in the Belgrade Arena. best basketball clubs in Europe playing On the other side, Partizan will start Belgrade finally A night of 1990s clubs start European in the higher–ranked Euroleague com- the Eurocup in group E and play its first petition. match against Lithuania’s Lietuvos Ry- Red Star’s coach Dejan Radonjić tas in Vilnius on October 15th. gets a tattoo fest musical nostalgia competitions hopes his young team will manage However, Partizan is facing a serious to enter the Euroleague Top 16, even problem ahead of the new season. FIBA he Serbian capital will finally have its own International Tattoo Festi- lthough the 1990s in Serbia saw war and sanctions, peo- As the new European basketball though several players are wounded. banned the Belgrade club from making val, featuring some of the best artists from the country, and artists from ple who lived through this decade still look back fondly on “Our group in Euroleague is very any international transfers, and the The ban was brought about due to all around the world. More than 40 artists will attend the convention, the music that helped them get through the tough times. season is about to kick off, Belgrade’s hard, but I hope that this team, with all ban will be in effect if the club doesn’t the Serbian champions not paying from October 3rd-5th, at Mikser House. The Best of the 90s concert on October 11th in the Belgrade its advantages and drawbacks, as well solve the problem by November 1st. debts owed to their former player, Jaka No matter what type of tattoos you are into, from traditional to tribal, Arena is literally a who’s-who of the biggest dance music Partizan and Red Star basketball clubs as with the atmosphere and support- “The club is doing everything to Klobučar, a Slovenian, who sued the realisticT or surrealistic, some artists at the event are sure to be of interest. There will groupsA from that era. ers, will become one of Top 16 teams,” get rid of the ban and start the season club in the basketball arbitral tribunal, be artists from Sweden, Holland, France, and even far-away Tahiti - who are experts The groups taking part in the all-night party are Technotronic, 2Unlim- hope to have a good season despite Radonjić told the press conference on smoothly, to register the players and BAT. Partizan is supposed to pay more at traditional Polynesian tribal tattooing. ited, C+C Music Factory, Ace of Base, Snow, Snap!, La Bouche, and Culture financial issues. September 29th. bring in the new ones,“ a statement said. than €130,000. To check out all of the artists and their portfolios and get in contact to book a Beat. Though most of these artists are nowhere to be found these days, a session, check out the convention’s official Facebook page, which is updated fre- lot of people still love their old tunes, so expect a huge party. Tickets for quently. the event cost in between 15 and 20 euros, depending on seating.

Songstress Marissa Walkabouts ex-leader Nadler in lower Dorćol teams up for special tour Free night of US psycho-surfers Signed to one of the coolest experimen- Rockers revel at student club Chris Eckman, who used to lead the Swedish hardcore punk team up with Belgrade’s finest tal music labels of today, Sacred Bones, Can’t Stop the Rock is one of the famed Walkabouts, has since had an Agent Attitude are one of the leading If you are a fan of surf rock, there’s only Marissa Nadler is a singer/songwriter of- longest-running club nights at Bel- inspiring career as a solo artist, incorpo- names on the Swedish underground one place to be on October 10th – the ten described as enchanting and magi- grade’s Klub Studenata Tehnike, KST, rating music from all parts of the world hardcore punk scene, known for their Babel Bar & Terrace. The show will cal. On the scene for over a decade now, having been a fixture for more than into his own sounds. He will be joined insane live shows and their constant feature Daikaiju, one of the brightest her current album, “July,” has received 20 years. On Friday October 3rd, rock on tour by Rykarda Parasol, a talented touring. They will be playing at Inex stars of the American surf rock scene, rave reviews across the board. She will fans will be able to dance to local DJs singer known for her dramatic music, Film in Belgrade on October 4th. Joining who play a twisted and psychedelic be accompanied on stage by Janel Lep- Toša, Zuba and Slipi playing hits from a which joins the worlds of film noir and them will be Belgrade punks Concrete take on the genre. Supporting them pin, who plays cello, synth and sings as variety of local and international bands indie folk. If you miss the show on Oc- Worms and a couple other local bands. will be Serbia’s Threesome, who have well. Nadler has already been to Serbia, including S.A.R.S., Mando Diao, Nirvana, tober 3rd in Belgrade at Dom Omladine, As is always the case with underground recently completed a tour of the west having played in Novi Sad last year, but Mano Negra, AC/DC and Metallica. If or want to see it again, the duo will shows at Inex, donations are accepted coast in the US and are attracting an this will be her first time in Belgrade – at you are a fan, make sure you are at KST be playing in Novi Sad’s CK13 club on at the door, but there is no set price for international following. Tickets are only the Rex Centre. Tickets will be €10 at in Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73. October 4th. tickets. €2 at the door. the door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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