Issue 02 × 2014 February 7 - March 13

YOUR FREE COPY THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND ABSOLUTION ENVIRONMENT FOOD HISTORY MUSIC Forgiveness Inc. Did The NYT get Ram's eyes, ears, The Nazis thought Sónar so good sells forgiveness! Iceland all wrong? penis, testicles… Icelanders were lame

The Calm Warrior Gunnar gives his foes the full Nelson

Complete Lots of Download the FREE Grapevine Appy Hour app! Reykjavík Listings cool events Every happy hour in town in your pocket. + Available on the App store and on Android Market. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2014 2

Editorial | Anna Andersen RE: GRAPEVINE'S GHASTLY GENDER GAP Anna’s Super Long 37th Editorial

illustration that might, or might not be a man Furthermore, after discussing the issue with dress this in 2014. Although our editorial team was with mustache). Two covers prominently fea- others involved, I became convinced that our cov- and is well staffed by females and I’m certain that ture women. One issue has one of each gen- ers couldn’t be deconstructed this way: that is, they the articles you’ve been reading have been by and der and two issues feature a bunch of people; are mostly not about featuring a man or a woman. about at least as many women as men, if not more, 15 men and 8 women.” Of the 18 issues published last year, only four were I’m also sure we can do better. The writer continues: “Now I ask, dear profiles of the people on the cover. Three men and Now, turn to page 16 to read this issue’s fea- Grapevine, do you feel that men achieve more one woman: Hafþór Björnsson (Issue 08), Emilíana ture interview with a human who inconveniently for important things than women and rather de- Torrini (Issue 13), Ragnar Axelsson (Issue 14) and the purposes of my editorial this issue happens to serve the front page? Or is it a subconscious Björgvin Halldórsson (Issue 18). The others fell into be called Gunnar Nelson. He’s great though, and societal thing? You might find my obsession place because we decided to feature something the story of how he rose to MMA fame out of a with counting people a bit extreme. You might rather than somebody, such as Eurovision (Issue country where it is illegal to compete in sports like feel that the gender of the main subject on the 5). professional boxing, is an interesting one. Finally, cover is coincidental and it's only important That said, the letter brings up an important if anybody wants to write us a letter about this or A few days after our last issue came out, we re- that it appeals to the reader and encourages matter. For the last five years, Iceland has been anything else, remember: [email protected]. ceived a letter about something that I had been people to pick up the paper. I think, that until sitting pretty at the top of the World Economic Fo- feeling rather uncomfortable about for some time we live in a world, closer to perfection than rum’s Global Gender Gap Report, boasting world now. I knew it was coming. After printing an ar- this one in regard to gender gaps and equal- records like the first democratically elected female TRACK OF THE ISSUE ticle featuring last year’s covers, with all 18 of them ity, we have to fight and be annoying and head of state and the first openly lesbian head of displayed neatly on a single page, somebody was count faces and push quotas. If not, women government. Yet, culling from stories that Grape- bound to pick up on it and send us a letter. It was will continue to grow up with the notion that vine reported on last year, you’ll see that it’s far just a matter of time: men deserve the front page more. That men from perfect over here. “Dear Grapevine, I'd like to initiate this let- deserve higher salaries, better positions and The fact is, when it comes to full-time state and ter by giving you a compliment. Your maga- more attention…” municipal jobs, females average 27% lower salaries zine is my favorite one in Reykjavík; it's weird So somebody picked up on it, the fact that than their male counterparts. In other governmen- that a local appreciates an English speaking men overwhelmingly dominated the Reykjavík tal blunders, the Parliamentary Assembly of the tourist magazine most of all the newspapers Grapevine’s covers in 2013. Although we had good Council of Europe had to suspend Iceland's voting and magazines in Iceland but you still always reason for featuring all of them (and you can read rights because our all-male delegation couldn’t fig- manage to have me counting down to the next those reasons on page 6 of last issue), I’m certain ure out how to meet the mandate for gender equal- issue. Each publishing Friday I sit down with a we would have also had good reason for featur- ity by including a single female. In the private sec- cup of carefully brewed coffee and bury my ing a greater number of amazing women. For some tor, females made up only 23.1% of company board Tilbury: “Hollow” nose into the only radically environmentalist, reason though, it didn’t pan out that way. members, as of December. In the film industry, fe- Download NOW at www.grapevine.is hippy, culture-appreciating voice in Reykja- The truth is that I have been aware of this for males have directed only 17 of the 133 feature films vík,” the letter writer began nicely, before deliver- some time now and meant to draw attention to it made in Iceland at last year’s count, and a record Few songs capture the chill of an early winter ing her blow. six or seven issues ago, when we featured Emilíana low number of females, 16 compared to 43 males, morning in Reykjavík and at the same time make “However, I was greatly saddened when Torrini. If you don’t count the New Year’s issue, were nominated for an Edda Academy Award at for a good soundtrack to your dreary walk to I saw a compilation of your covers in the is- which featured a stand-in model for a woman who last year’s ceremony. Even in female-dominated work, a quality that "Hollow" really hits on the sues of 2013. I have the (sometimes annoy- went missing and whose name we never knew, fields, such as teaching and nursing, males still head. The mellow ground-up feeling built by the ing) habit of counting genders in magazines, Emilíana was the first female to grace a cover last hold the leadership positions. bass riff on this song from Tilbury’s new album photos, front pages of web sites and so on. year and we were thirteen issues deep at that Dear letter writer, I’d like to thank you for bring- ‘Northern Comfort’ isn't too rough on your grog- After taking a very swift look at your covers it point. However, I didn’t end up drawing attention ing this up. It’s important to point out gender in- gy head, yet the vibrant synth and lively drums was evident that there was a clear gender gap to this back then, at least in this space, because equality, as it’s a problem that’s not likely to go still get you pumped up to take on whatever the in the people you chose to front your paper, a I didn’t want to risk trivializing her appearance on away if we don’t do anything about it. Although I’m rest of your day has to throw at you. Download paper that sits face up in every café around our cover by making our decision seem to be more not convinced that gender quotas should be ap- this free track to get a taste for ‘Northern Com- town. Out of 18 issues, 10 feature a man as about meeting gender quotas than about celebrat- plied to everything from committees to faces on fort,’ which gets a glowing review on page 39. the main subject (11 if you count Siggi Odd's ing her art. magazine covers, I pledge to do what I can to ad-

Contributing Writers Photographers: Founders: Alex Baumhardt Nanna Dís / www.nannadis.com Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, Árni Árnason Alísa Kalyanova / www. alisakalyanova.com Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Kári Tulinius Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, Davíð Roach Sales Director: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Óli Dóri Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] Valur Gunnarsson Björn Teitsson Helgi Þór Harðarson / [email protected] Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík John Rogers The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. www.grapevine.is Simon Cherit Distribution manager: Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May [email protected] Sindri Eldon [email protected] til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole Published by Fröken ehf. Bob Cluness or in part without the written permission of the publishers. The www.froken.is Óskar Bragi Stefánsson Proofreader: Reykjavík Grapevine is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Association Helgi Hrafn Guðmundsson Jim Rice Egilsstaðir, Seyðisfjörður, Borgarnes, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key www.saf.is Anna Millward locations along road #1, and all major tourist attractions and tourist Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. Listings: information centres in the country. Journalist [email protected] You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored (no articles Editor In Chief: Larissa Kyzer / [email protected] in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions Haukur S Magnússon / [email protected] Submissions inquiries: expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’). Journalist & Listings editor [email protected] Editor: Tómas Gabríel Benjamin / [email protected] Anna Andersen / [email protected] Subscription inquiries: Photographer: Baldur Kristjáns Editorial Interns +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Issue 02 × 2014 Editorial: February 7 - March 13 www.baldurkristjans.is Ben Smick / [email protected] General inquiries: YOUR FREE COPY THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND ABSOLUTION ENVIRONMENT FOOD HISTORY MUSIC Forgiveness Inc. Did The NYT get Ram's eyes, ears, The Nazis thought Sónar so good sells forgiveness! Iceland all wrong? penis, testicles… Icelanders were +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Yasmin Nowak / [email protected] [email protected] lame On The Cover: Gunnar Nelson Make-Up: Rakel Ásgeirsdóttir Advertising: Art Director Stylist: Auður Ómarsdóttir +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] +354 40 3610 Design: Publisher: Hrefna Sigurðardóttir / [email protected] The Calm Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Warrior Gunnar gives his foes the full Nelson

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Hafnarstræti 19 - Reykjavík | Hafnarstræti 94 - Akureyri Keflavíkurflugvöllur - International Airport Issue 2 — 2014 Say your piece, voice your opinion, send 4 your letters to: [email protected] Sour grapes & stuff by the sea and a delicious lobster MOST AWESOME LETTER at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri Dear john gnarr, Dear S. You must be talking about this passage here: (Great photo!) I enjoyed your address in 'the grapevine' on the life of Jesus and agree with some of your humorous “Jesus’s birth occurred in a rather unusual manner; unknown stars comments, but far from being silent, 3 of his disciples did twinkled in the sky and angels floated between houses and talked write about their day-to-day lives with him; Matthew, Mark to people. Respected wise men showed up in town and announced and John, in 3 of the 4 gospels! that a great man was born. One would assume that any child born under such circumstances would have its youth documented by its parents, relatives and even the authorities. But it was not. There Yours Sincerely, are no records of Jesus’s youth. We know nothing of his first words or when he started walking. None of his childhood drawings have been preserved. We have no knowledge of how he matured or how S. McDermott, he fared in school or in his day-to-day interactions. Nada. He just disappeared and wasn’t heard from in thirty years.”

Shropshire, England You make a good point. Mark, at least, claims to have been At the seashore the giant lobster makes there for his baptism. Oh wait, he was in his thirties when he was baptized. Matthew once invited him to dinner. Oh, he must Spör ehf. appointments with mermaids and landlubbers. Sent from my iPhone have been older at that point. And John sat next to him at Pass- over that one time. Was that the same dinner? Hmm… Sorry if He waves his large claws, attracting those desiring -- we got any of that wrong, we’re mostly a bunch of heathens over here at the office. We’ll have to ask the mayor about this the to be in the company of starfish and lumpfish. next time we catch him grocery shopping or something.

Best, Grapevine

Dear Sir/Madam, ashamed about the fact, but I am not in a position to pay for that announcement. May it be free of charge for me? Let me introduce myself briefly. My name is Oleg Ananyev. I am I believe this even would be a theme for an article for Reykjavík journalist. Once I graduated from the University of Wales with someone in your newspaper: Let us call it “journalistic experi- an MTh degree. At present I live in Volgograd (former Stalin- ment”. What may be the public reaction to such an unusual Stokkseyri grad, “the capital of the Second World War”), Russia. question concerning your classical old culture from a very, very The reason why I am addressing you is that I am remote city in Russia? Will I be sent 50 copies of Eddas and Eyrarbakki - The Seashore restaurant very interested in the Scandinavian culture. Thus, I can read in Sagas, or 126 or 208 or 82 – or no no no copies at all? May it be a Swedish fluently. But it is my old dream to read in Icelandic the bookmaker case in your editorial-stuff to stake on? Well, a little > Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík famous Icelandic books, namely The Poetic Edda, The Prosaic Russian joke. Quite seriously, in my part, I would be happy to be Edda, and, of course, The Sagas. I already have an Icelandic text- in touch with a creative-minded Icelandic colleague. Eyrarbraut 3, 825 Stokkseyri, Iceland · Tel. +354 483 1550 book and a dictionary. Fax. +354 483 1545 · [email protected] · www.fjorubordid.is Having asked the Icelandic Embassy in Moscow, I Please let me know your decision. Thank you very much. got the answer that they did not have these books. In the Nordic Summer opening hours: Mon - Sun 12:00 to 22:00 School in Moscow there was no this kind of books either. It was My address is: no use to ask for such books in bookshops having books in for- Oleg Ananyev eign languages, as they had not even English translations of the ul. Simonova 32-186 books of my dreams. It seemed these books were not available in 400137 Volgograd-137 Russia at all. I was totally in despair. Russia Next I contacted some cultural foundations in Ice- Yours sincerely, land by e-post asking them to send me, if possible, these books. Oleg Ananyev, MTh All in vain. Very unfortunately, I got only two negative answers or four-no-answers-at- all. I was in the depths of despair again. Dear Olga, Later it came to my mind to ask you, my colleagues, to help me. So my bold question is: could you please publish in Here's hoping some of our kind-hearted readers buy into your your newspaper my announcement with my address asking “journalistic experiment” and help you escape the "depths of your kind-hearted readers to send me The Poetic Edda, The dispair!" Prosaic Edda, and The Sagas in Icelandic as present? The cop- ies may be new or second-hand; it does not matter. I am really Good luck!

MOST AWESOME LETTER FREE ICELANDIC GOURMET FEAST!

There's prize for all your MOST AWESOME LETTERS. And it’s a scorcher! No, really! It's a goddamn scorcher is what it is! Whoever sends us THE MOST AWESOME LETTER this issue will receive A FRIGGIN GOURMET FEAST FOR TWO at TAPAS BARINN. Did you hear that? Write in and complain about something (in an admirable way), win a gourmet feast at one of Reykjavík's best? THIS IS THE DEAL OF THE CENTURY IS WHAT IT IS! What's in a 'lobster feast'? Well, one has to assume that it has lobster-a-plenty. Is there more? Probably, but still... Gourmet feast? Wow! DON’T PANIC if your letter wasn’t picked AWESOME LETTER. There's always next month! Now, if you're in the market for free goodies next month, write us some sort of letter. Give us your worst: [email protected] Þingholtsstræti 2-4 - 101 Reykjavík » Fákafen 9 - 108 Reykjavík » Austurvegi 21 - 870 Vík » icewear.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2014 6

Environment | In trouble? Fit For Print Did The New York Times get it wrong? — Larissa Kyzer

Ólafur Már Sigurðsson Ólafur Már Sigurðsson

aims to expand the protected area and if that nent stage, especially given that Iceland’s Tourism, it need hardly be pointed out, is big business in Iceland, an indus- plan goes through, it'll be an expansion of breathtaking landscapes are often a driv- try which in the years following the crash has ballooned, with more than about 1,500 square kilometers, or about 1.5 % ing force supporting its tourism industry. of the total area of Iceland.” As Árni Finnsson wonders, “Who goes double the country’s population visiting last year. But while making it into It is true that Minister of the Environ- to Iceland to see power plants and power the New York Times would normally be good news for Iceland’s economy, ment Sigurður Ingi Jóhannsson has not lines?” suggested that the current protections— a recent entry about Iceland’s highlands on the publication’s “52 Places to namely, the preserve that was established “Who goes to Iceland to see Visit in 2014” list was less than ideal from a publicity standpoint. in the ‘80s—be altered. Nevertheless, it is power plants and power also misleading to suggest that he person- ally “aims to expand the protected area,” lines?” The paragraph-long blurb did mention the northern highlands to surrounding two phases, it was decided that the nature as the expansion plans were basically the area’s unique landscape, but its key volcanic deserts and are characterized by preserve established in the Þjórsárver mandated by the findings of the Master While an over-saturation of tourists in takeaway was that the “famously raw remarkable biodiversity. A description on Wetlands was to be expanded and des- Plan. Moreover, he elected not to approve fragile natural environments can pose its natural beauty” of the highlands—and the World Wildlife Fund website points ignated as a “protected area.” The new the Environment Agency’s expanded own, very real, threat to nature reserves more specifically, the Þjórsárver wetlands not only to the variance of the landscape boundaries were to be signed into regu- boundaries, but rather to propose new and natural sites like Þjórsárver, tour- located in the interior—may not be en- itself—“tundra meadows intersected lation based on the Nature Conserva- boundaries which would create a smaller ism can still have a positive influence on joyable by anyone, let alone tourists, for with numerous glacial and spring-fed tion Act in June 2013 (the resolution was protected area than was intended. conservation issues, such as, Árni recalls, much longer. As reads the article’s sub- streams, a large number of pools, ponds, passed by parliament that year according So no, Sigurður Ingi is not cutting when a greater interest in whale watching title: “Natural wonders are in danger. Go lakes and marshes, and rare permafrost to the Master Plan), until the Minister of back on “current protections,” but that’s led to more effective challenges to Ice- see them before it’s too late.” mounds”—but also to the area’s unique the Environment, Sigurður Ingi Jóhanns- only because he refused to approve the landic whaling. “It takes many millions The suggested threat facing the in- plant and birdlife, including one of the son, elected to postpone making them of- protections that were supposed to be in to recover a loss of reputation,” says Árni tegrity of Þjórsárver? Not impending vol- largest breeding colonies of Pink-footed ficial in order to consider a new reservoir place already. Finnsson, speaking about Iceland’s image canic eruptions or natural deterioration. Geese in the world. proposal from Landsvirkjun. “Therefore, it is clear that there will be a as a country whose nature is its biggest Rather, the article stated that the Icelandic Þjórsárver is fed by Iceland’s longest Based on this new proposal, Sigurður substantial expansion of the protected area selling point. “It’s a huge resource, but it government recently “announced plans river, Þjórsá, which also sources much of Ingi has drawn up new boundaries for the under discussion. The New York Times as- is so easy to destroy it.” to revoke those protections” which had the country’s electricity. Since the early protected area, which would expand the serting that protections on Þjórsárver will be It was, in fact, specifically the threat been safeguarding the wetlands, and ad- 1960s, Landsvirkjun, the National Power original nature reservoir, but cover less lifted in order to enable hydroelectric power of development that made this particular ditionally, that “a law intending to further Company of Iceland, has proposed several area than the original boundaries created development is both paradoxical and wrong.” site stand out to Danielle Pergament. “I repeal conservation efforts has been put plans for creating a reservoir on Þjórsá by the Environment Agency of Iceland. What we’re seeing the Ministry of the think people—over here [in the US] any- forward.” that would facilitate increased energy The new suggested boundaries do not Environment do here is a neat little bit of way—are well aware of the natural beauty The “52 Places” article was widely production and enlarge energy reserves. extend as far down the Þjórsá river, and semantic parsing. The NYT article states in Iceland. But not many people know that quoted within the Icelandic media. With- Such reserves would not only be useful for therefore would allow Landsvirkjun to that after spending decades protecting the the wetlands are under threat, that there is in days of its publication, the Ministry for existing industries, such as aluminium build their Norðlingalda Reservoir. Con- wetlands, “the government announced a chance that the famous landscape may the Environment and Natural Resources smelting, but—following the proposed servationists who oppose this point out plans to revoke protections, allowing for be developed. I was shocked to learn about issued a brief statement in Icelandic creation of a submarine cable to Europe— that the three-tiered Dynkur waterfall will the construction of hydropower plants.” it myself. That is why I wanted to write bearing the title “Incorrect Reporting could also be sold as part of foreign energy be destroyed if Landsvirkjun's reservoir This is a carefully qualified statement, about it.” by the New York Times.” It claimed that contracts as early as 2020. plans go through. and might accurately refer to any of sev- The question remains, however, if the the New York Times article was “full of Through the years, Landsvirkjun’s eral ministerial initiatives, from Sigurður attention drawn to Þjórsárver’s tenuous misrepresentations” and was “paradoxi- proposals have been met with frequent Parsing Facts Ingi’s redrawing of the Þjórsárver pro- position will actually generate much new cal and wrong.” The author of the article, opposition, which in 1981 led to a nature tected area boundaries, to his recent pro- support. After all, in declining to publicly contributing travel writer Danielle Perga- preserve being created in the Þjórsárver This brings us back the alleged “misrepre- posal to repeal the law on nature conser- “correct” the New York Times, the Min- ment, was not contacted in regard to any wetlands. However, a provision was made sentations” in the New York Times write- vation (60/2013). This law was approved istry effectively contained the debate to “misrepresentations,” and neither was the within these protections, allowing Lands- up. Best to go through the Ministry of the by Alþingi and was set to go into effect on an Icelandic-speaking audience here in New York Times—although the latter was virkjun to create a future reservoir, pro- Environment’s statement and address April 1, 2014. It included specific protec- Iceland. And anyway, even if thousands invited to send a reporter to an open Envi- vided that the company could prove that their qualms one by one: tions for natural phenomena, such as lava of tourists become suddenly impassioned ronment and Communications Commit- the wetlands would not be irrevocably “The article in question is full of mis- formations and wetlands. In November, by the cause of the Icelandic wetlands, the tee meeting on Þjórsárver a few days after harmed, and that the Environment Agen- representations about Þjórsárver preserve Sigurður Ingi introduced a bill to repeal area may remain inaccessible to many of the article’s publication. cy of Iceland approved the reservoir plans. and the government’s intentions regarding the nature conservation law, although this them. “The Þjórsárver wetlands are like So what exactly caused all the ker- By the late ‘90s, there was another its protection and utilisation. For instance, has yet to be voted on by parliament. an El Dorado, a land beyond,” says Árni fuffle? Did The New York Times get it all flurry of activity: in 1997, the Iceland Na- it states that Þjórsárver covers 40% of Ice- So, no, the New York Times article was Finnsson. “They aren’t really suitable for wrong? ture Conservation Association (INCA) land, while in fact, it only covers .5% of the not “paradoxical and wrong.” It was, un- tourism, or not for many tourists, at least. was founded with the “primary objective” country today.” fortunately, quite correct. Maybe a few very keen, very well-trained A Contentious History of “establish[ing] a national park in the The first version of the article, since hikers.” highlands.” Two years later, the govern- corrected, read as though the Þjórsárver A Land Beyond At the end of the day, then, if the Before we address the “incorrect report- ment began work on an extensive “Master wetlands constituted 40% of Iceland. In choice is made to protect Þjórsárver, it will ing” alleged by the Ministry of the Envi- Plan for Hydro and Geothermal Energy reality, it is the highlands that constitute Although debates over Þjórsárver and have to be for less tangible reasons than ronment, it will be useful to step back and Resources.” Divided into two phases that 40% of Iceland’s landmass, and Þjórsárv- development proposals in the Icelandic the possible dollars generated by tourists, explain a little of the context surrounding spanned from 1999 -2010, the Master Plan er is only part of this area. Following a call highlands have been well covered and or international pressure. It has to come the Þjórsárver Wetlands and the battles was intended to evaluate close to 60 hydro from Árni Finnsson, the chair of INCA discussed in detail by the Icelandic me- from within. which have been waged over this area and geothermal development options, as- who was quoted in the piece, this error dia, conservation issues around this area But first, let’s get the facts straight. since the 1960s. sessing them for environmental impact, was corrected. have not, thus far, made many headlines Located in Iceland’s interior, the employment and regional development “There are no plans to lift the protections internationally. So it is noteworthy that an Þjórsárver wetlands stretch 120 square possibilities, efficiency, and profitability. currently in place. On the contrary, the En- outlet such as The New York Times chose kilometres from the Hofsjökull glacier in Over the course of the Master Plan’s vironment and Natural Resources Minister to highlight these issues on a more promi-

The Reykjavík Grapevine IssueThe 1 — 2011 Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2014 8

Iceland8 | For Dummies FEBRUARY So Who's This Tony Omos NEWS IN BRIEF I Keep Hearing About? by Larissa Kyzer

— by Kári Tulinius Illustration by Megan Herbert

He is a Nigerian who applied for asylum in Iceland two years ago. Late last year he was escorted out of the

country by police and separated from the mother of With the month-long winter holiday of Þorri arriving at the end of January, his child, Evelyn Glory Joseph, a fellow asylum seeker. many food producers sought to mix Mr. Omos is now staying with an acquaintance after up their traditional Þorramatur (Þorri food) provisions, which Icelanders having been deported to Switzerland, where authori- are expected to eat 200 tonnes of this year. While creative, it remains to be ties consider that Mr. Omos' asylum status should be seen if the newly-marketed pickled handled by Icelandic authorities since he was in Ice- ram’s penis will be as successful as the staple of pickled ram’s testicles. land for 22 months. Another daring, if ill-advised, Þorri experiment was briefly shut down Nooooo! Not Switzerland! It is a dan- Yes, saving children from persecution before the Ministry for the Environ- ment gave its stamp of approval: the gerous place where unwary outsiders is all well and good, but a govern- Icelandic brewery Steðji has teamed will be pushed into chocolate lakes ment's first duty is to stop vanity. up with whaling company Hvalur to by hooligan cows. Sadly and infuriatingly enough the produce a new Þorri “Whale Beer,” Before deportation he found him- Icelandic government refused en- which contains trace amounts of self smeared on the front page of the try to many Jews trying to flee the whalebone meal. most widely read newspaper in Ice- Nazis before and during World War land as a suspect in a human traf- II, even in cases where they were ficking case and for having forced on their way to other countries and Ms. Joseph to pretend that the child merely needed to stop here for a she was carrying was his. Both al- short while. You would think that legations were quickly proven to be something as outrageously wrong untrue. This smear campaign has as impeding people trying to flee shocked people in Iceland, which is genocide would teach the Icelandic saying something as people seeking government an important lesson in asylum in Iceland have generally not being monstrous shitwits, but The Red Cross! That dastardly su- ing in her ministry. been treated quite badly in the last you would be wrong. pervillain strikes again! Oh wait, I'm century or so. thinking of the Red Skull. Not to take the focus off the im- But it’s not all balls and pickled Thanks for clarifying that, I was just portant matter of getting people to penises up here. In fact, Oxfam’s new Last century? Oh, please tell me that about to ask if the Icelandic govern- All these organisations and institu- treat politicians like they wish to be Global Food Table showed, to our Iceland didn't... you know... not help ment still behaved like monstrous tions deny having been given the treated, but what of the child of Mr. great surprise, that Icelanders have people fleeing Nazi persecution. shitwits. memo and nothing has appeared to Omos and Ms. Joseph? the most nutritionally diverse di- link anyone outside of the Interior ets in the world. If we take this to be Perhaps the most awful case was It has not actively been keeping peo- Ministry with the leak. The minis- As of this writing, the child is still true, it probably explains why the when an Icelandic humanitarian ple from saving children from Na- ter and her staff have now stopped unborn. Given the haste in which number of overweight Icelanders organisation had secured places for zis. I guess that is an improvement. answering media inquiries, and Mr. Omos was escorted out of the is not increasing, rather that the 8-10 Jewish children in local homes In the specific case of Mr. Omos, have cast themselves in the role of country, it is not impossible to imag- average BMI of adult Icelanders has in 1938. The only thing missing was shitwittery has been the order of victims of a media witch hunt. ine immigration authorities waiting been in stasis since 2007. As Stefán permission from the government, the day. An Interior Ministry memo in the delivery room with a basket Hrafn Jónsson, a sociologist at the under the leadership of Prime Min- was leaked to the two most widely I guess they're being bullied like that to whisk the infant straight onto a Directorate of Health delicately put it, ister Hermann Jónasson. They re- read newspapers in Iceland, Frét- poor prime minister who didn't want plane, any plane, out of Iceland. And "Yes, Icelanders have stopped getting fused these children entry. When tablaðið and Morgunblaðið, with to let Jewish children escape from equally easy to imagine next day's fatter.” paediatrician Katrín Thoroddsen, the above-mentioned allegations. A Nazi persecution. newspapers reporting that accord- one of the prospective foster par- third newspaper, DV, has pursued ing to an Interior Ministry memo, ents, wrote an article criticising the the case, trying to find out who Following accusations that DV was that child was actually the reincar- government's decision, a newspa- wrote the memo and who sent it to making threats, the editor has re- nation of Genghis Khan, Jack the Whatever the rest of us have been per funded by the prime minister's journalists. When asked about the vealed that the minister and her Ripper and Charles Manson, even eating this month, sports announcer party said the humanitarians were source of the leak, Minister of the staff have called the newspaper re- though that last one is not techni- Björn Bragi Arnarson was content to bullying the prime minister and Interior Hanna Birna Kristjánsdót- peatedly to pressure them into not cally dead yet. eat his foot. While providing RÚV’s suggested these families were tak- tir and her staff suggested it might reporting on the matter. Now mem- colour commentary on the Iceland- ing in these Jewish children to ad- have come from another institution bers of parliament have begun to vertise their kindness. or organisation altogether, like the pursue the matter. With admirable Directorate of Immigration or the consistency, she said that those ask- Continues over Red Cross. ing her questions were attacking the honour and integrity of those work-

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OR The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2014 10

Society | Placable? FEBRUARY NEWS IN BRIEF Forgiveness For Sale! Continued... Austria match during the European handball championships, Björn Þórdís Elva premieres Forgiveness Inc. remarked that the Icelandic team, then up 17-9, was “like the Ger- — By Árni Árnason man Nazis in 1938. We're slaugh- tering the Austrians.” Shortly after his shockingly insensitive blunder, when they forgive. We conducted over 70 Björn and RÚV both issued interviews with people from all walks of apologies to the incensed Austrian life, grandparents and parents, children Handball Association, the latter of and teenagers, priests and addicts and which later issued a joint statement so on.” with the European and Icelandic Handball Federation denouncing the Self-gratification Or Self- comments. The chastised Björn kept Sacrifice? his job, providing the commentary for the Iceland-Macedonia game shortly One of the major eye-openers the group after. encountered came from an interview with an 84-year-old woman who told them that people only forgive if they ab- solutely have to. “The comment struck us, as it was so far removed from our rose-tinted ideas about the Good Sa- maritan. We all had some very romantic ideas about forgiveness when we started the process, but as we delved further into the research we started to realise that forgiveness is actually a very practi- cal process and we often forgive in self- While Minister of the Interior Hanna interest,” she elaborates. Birna remains under fire for her role “It’s like Mandela famously said, in the Tony Omos case (see page 8), ‘Resentment is like drinking poison and Minister of Foreign Affairs Gun- hoping it will kill your enemies’. I’m not nar Bragi Sveinsson was called saying this is the universal truth but on by pro-EU group Já Ísland to Still from 'Forgiveness Inc.' ad forgiveness seems to be less about self- apologise for his comment which sacrifice and more about self-interests. echoed a statement made by the UK’s It´s basically the opposite of what we had Daily Mail last year—namely that "the led ourselves to believe.” European Union puts more money In a TV ad that did the rounds on the usual social networking sites in early This new theory was given further into promotion than Coca-Cola.” January, Forgiveness Inc. promised its would-be clients a clean conscience and a weight by a 4-year-old interviewee. This controversy comes as a new “When we asked her if she knew what poll shows that nearly a third of bright future. The ad sparked heated debates about the company’s authenticity forgiveness was she said ‘yes, it’s here’ Icelanders (32.3%) now favour and pointed at her chest. When asked accession into the European and the services it provided, but perhaps more to the liking of playwright and to elaborate she said ‘your heart gets so Union. Nevertheless, it remains author Þórdís Elva Þorvaldsdóttir—one of the people behind said ad—it initi- warm when you forgive.’” unclear if Iceland will continue EU Whether interviewees agreed on the negotiation talks, as a Parliamen- ated interesting conversations about forgiveness and the morality of selling it. self-gratification of forgiveness or not, tary referendum on the issue seems there was another matter that proved to have stalled again. even more contentious. Exploring the “It’s got a perilous yet interesting moral take place solely within the walls of the How, What, Who, When? possibility of something being unforgiv- angle, but the truth is we started mass- theatre. We therefore built a play around able or not caused all sorts of problems producing and selling emotions such the play to get people to explore the con- Þórdís got the idea for the play after the for interviewees. “Basically, most people as remorse, forgiveness and sincerity a cept of forgiveness and what value it has financial crash in 2008. “The society were certain that some actions are un- long time ago,” she says. “Public rela- in their lives. Besides, it’s so easy to poke was wrought with anger and nobody forgivable, but when asked to elaborate tions gurus are hired to handle the pleas fun at human interaction when it goes seemed to be able to take responsibility on their answers they became consider- of forgiveness for people in the public wrong. We’re clumsy when we’re vul- or apologise,” she says. “I was also writ- ably vaguer,” she says. eye. The client is advised on what to nerable and we’re certainly vulnerable ing my book “Á Mannamáli” (“In Lay- “My understanding is that people wear, what to say and what tone of voice when asking for forgiveness.” man’s Terms”) at the time, and in my in- are more willing to consider actions to take and so on. Just look at examples terviews with victims of sexual violence unforgivable when they’re not direct such as Tiger Woods publicly asking his Angry Icelanders! and the professionals that work with victims. Let’s say your friend got sexu- In the coming months, tourists can wife to forgive him for his string of af- them, forgiveness was often mentioned ally assaulted. It can be absolutely unfor- expect their visit to be a little pricier. fairs. It was public! It created work for Þórdís says the goal is also to provide as the only way out. Therefore, it felt to givable to you, but if you’re the victim, Not only have the landowners of the thousands of people all over the world.” some social criticism, as Icelanders me that forgiveness, or the lack of it, was your view totally changes, as you’re the popular tourist site Geysir decided have never been a particularly placable all around. I couldn’t help exploring the one who ultimately loses. If you think of to start charging entrance fees I Call Hoax! nation. The Sagas, she points out, have concept a bit further.” something as absolutely unforgivable it this summer, but individual ticket taught us that the Icelandic settlers fre- denies you the possibility of ever letting prices to Reykjavík’s swimming Perhaps close to reality, but apparently quently chose to go on killing each other Besides, it’s so easy to poke go. Essentially, the right to forgive or not pools went up by 9% in the New not there yet, Forgiveness Inc’s terribly rather than turning the other cheek, and fun at human interaction lies with the person who’s been betrayed Year, bringing the cost of a single cheesy American-cable-TV-in-the-‘90s- despite vengeful murder rampages hav- or violated.” adult ticket to 600 ISK. Both fees inspired ad did in fact turn out to be a ing mostly disappeared from our shores, when it goes wrong. We’re will apply to Icelanders and tourists PR stunt for a play Þórdís wrote and di- she thinks Icelanders still struggle with clumsy when we’re vulner- Let’s Reconcile alike—“Footsteps are just as heavy, rects. which is premiering at Tjarnarbíó forgiveness. able and we’re certainly whether they are an Icelander’s or on the 14th of February. "In fact, I think it’s a characteristic Þórdís leaves me with a direct quote a German’s” spokesperson Garðar Since the cat came out of the bag, the of ours, particularly when it comes to vulnerable when asking for from what I had assumed was a com- Eiríksson remarked, explaining the “company’s” Facebook page has been people in positions of power. Politicians forgiveness.” pletely satirical ad campaign. “Forgive- need for better site maintenance at regularly updated with tongue-in-cheek and other people of prominence repeat- ness is the glue in human relations,” she Geysir—but the increase at the pools news about their work. For instance, edly try to avoid taking responsibility The research that Þórdís and ac- says. “Without it we must become stag- has being dubbed a “tourist’s fee,” they have posted about providing private for their mistakes and blunders,” she tors Víðir Guðmundsson, Árni Pétur nant and isolated.” It turns out that de- since it is expected that locals pur- therapy for musician Mugison, who felt says. “The discourse is fascinating. It’s Guðjónsson, Ragnheiður Steindórsdót- spite the people behind the ad campaign chase multi-ticket passes to the pools snubbed by the State-run ‘Listaman- full of uncertainty and indecisive words tir and Aðalbjörg Árnadóttir (later re- having their tongue firmly stuck to the instead of single tickets. nalaun’ (“artist pay”) committee. They such as ‘if.’ ‘If’ I have done something placed by Þóra Karítas Árnadóttir) con- inside of their cheek, there is actually a have also offered politicians a discount wrong… ‘If’ I have let anyone down… ducted, which would eventually became lot of believable aspects to their other- on their services, as Forgiveness Inc. then I apologise. It’s very rare to hear Forgiveness Inc., mostly took place over wise ridiculous ad. considers them high-risk individuals in anybody actually admit to any wrongdo- a month in the winter of 2011. “I find the idea of Catholic indul- constant need of reconciliation. ing. This doesn’t seem to be the case in “I had done a lot of groundwork as gence not only interesting but also rel- “We wanted to keep the conversa- the countries around us, where it’s not the idea had been brewing for a couple evant these days,” she says. “Indulgence tion going, partly for fun but also to uncommon that when someone makes of years, but when it came to working is back in full force. What we see in try and start a debate about whether or even the most miniscule of blunders, on the material with the group we did public apologies is nothing but mod- not forgiveness can be bought and sold, his or her three closest superiors re- so in a very structured and methodologi- ern indulgence. It’s neither sincere nor and if so, how?” Þórdís says. “I’ve never sign.” cal manner,” she explains. “We divided personal.” Perhaps we’re closer to some- been interested in writing anything, be our time into exploring four different thing like Forgiveness Inc. than we care it books or plays, without trying to start aspects of forgiveness we had identified. to admit. some sort of a conversation with my con- We explored how people forgive, what temporaries and that obviously doesn’t they forgive, who they forgive, and lastly Northern Lights Mystery AH33 Price 20:00- 5.400 ISK 01:00

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Commerce | Planned obsolescence Raising Awareness In The Raw The Naked Handstander explains… — Larissa Kyzer

thinking and help change this throw away culture we currently What are the ideal conditions for a live in. naked handstand? A scenic background, little or no Why naked handstands? Why not people around, blue skies, sunshine naked cartwheels, for instance? and good company. Well, I have to be honest and say I haven't tried a naked cartwheel or Are there any [weather, social…] any other fancy naked acrobatics… conditions under which you will not yet. I'm not as bendy as I'd like! naked handstand? Yes, I prefer not to do it in the pres- According to your website, your proj- ence of large groups of people, the ect started in Vík in 2009. What about police or people who are likely to be a cold black beach in Iceland made offended or upset. Weather-wise, you want to strip down for a cause? blue skies and sunshine are always I can't really say, it just happened! It preferable, but as long as it’s not too was summer 2009, I was with a par- slippery, I'll have a craic! ticularly cool girl and felt the urge to get nude...Vík is a spectacular place You must have gotten some mixed and I think it's best experienced reactions from people when you do naked, as some of life's many plea- these in public—care to share any of sures are! these, particularly any reactions from Icelanders? (We noticed that there We see you’ve been back to our were people on the pond when you country several times since 2009. Is did your handstand on the pond…) there a reason for the repeat visits? Well, there have been two occa- Do you feel Iceland is a particularly sions where some officials have good place to make your case for not entirely enjoyed the idea. The Courtesy of the 'Naked Handstander' more responsible consumption and first occasion was in Amsterdam, material production? which resulted in me having a Well-travelled, principled, and none-too-shy about dropping trou, the anonymous Iceland has to be one of the most stern talking-to by the friendly local beautiful countries on Earth! The policeman and sent on my way. The maverick known only as The Naked Handstander has bared his goods around the people are grand and the nature is second occasion was somewhere in globe, from Preikestolen to Amsterdam, London, New York City and The Great sublime, so those are the main rea- Italy. They didn't find it as humor- sons I keep returning. The natural ous, so we had a ride in the back of Wall of China. Since starting his topsy-turvy exploits in Vík, Iceland, in 2009, beauty there is a fitting showcase of a blue and white striped car. I don't the amazing world we live in, so I think I should say much more than The Naked Handstander has returned to our shores twice, most recently this feel it is a good place to highlight the that at the moment... year when he put on his best (birthday) suit and inaugurated the New Year with need for responsible consumption Surprisingly, in Iceland on and production. When you visit Ice- New Year’s Day, few people actually a handstand on the Reykjavík Pond. land you feel this sense of respon- noticed me. I think that was due to sibility to ensure we take good care the fact they were probably as hun- of nature there and for that matter gover as I! Those who did notice had either a smirk or a chuckle, so If people were more aware of its everywhere. it was good to see they took it in Although The Naked Handstander What is the connection between damaging effect on the planet, and the way it was intended. Icelandic does admit to enjoying “the world naked handstands and the concept of as a result, ourselves, I think Earth Do you travel specifically for the people are awesome. in all its glory and wonder in the planned obsolescence? and its inhabitants would be far bet- purpose of naked handstanding, or raw,” his handstands are not simply It’s a realisation I came to about our ter off. Making things so that they do you simply incorporate these into have a fixed lifespan, so they break the denuded demonstrations of a current consumerist ways. If we your normal travels? and need to be bought again for the worldly exhibitionist. Rather, with continue this way, we will one day I travel to experience the world and sake of profit, is simply ridiculous. each handstand, he intends to raise end up in an exhausted world. As a toss in as many naked handstands We are sacrificing this magnificent awareness about Planned Obsoles- result we will be left naked, wonder- as possible. It makes sense to in- world we live in for a paper profit. ing what happened and where we corporate these into travels rather cence, “the deliberate shortening What would we prefer, a world lit- went wrong. than travelling specifically for hand- of a products useful life in order to tered with waste and useless crap or standing. Usually the locations I force the consumer to buy or 'up- a world where we created things in Why is this cause particularly impor- visit lend themselves naturally to grade' over and over and over again.” harmony with the environment? tant to you? handstands. I'm planning the na- We had a quick e-chat with People don't consider that I think the current throw away ked handstanders world tour next The Naked Handstander to learn the way they treat the planet will culture we live in needs to be year, though. more about his passion for turn- affect them. Rather, they think they highlighted and given a shake up. ing around our throw-away culture, are totally separate from it. We are We consume things too often on a Who is your photographer? all here on this tiny speck of dust the best conditions under which to use and discard basis, rather than a That depends—usually a good together and the sooner we realise handstand, and the pleasures of life use/re-use, re-cycle, or better still, friend or travelling amigo. Oc- that, the sooner our consumerist lived in the buff. up-cycle basis. Planned obsoles- casionally the camera, tripod and habits will change positively. I hope cence is one of the main culprits timer, which takes a few goes! I can raise awareness, get people in this use / discard paradigm.

H6C9=DAI76@:GN I=:;>C:HI H6C9L>8=:H >C9DLCIDLC Step into D;G:N@?6KÏ@ The exhibition and museum shop are open daily 10–17 the Viking Age Aðalstræti 16 101 Reykjavík / Iceland Experience Viking-Age Reykjavík at the Multimedia techniques bring Reykjavík’s Phone +(354) 411 6370 new Settlement Exhibition. The focus of the past to life, providing visitors with insights www.reykjavikmuseum.is exhibition is an excavated longhouse site which into how people lived in the Viking Age, and dates from the 10th century ad. It includes what the Reykjavík environment looked like relics of human habitation from about 871, the to the first settlers. A6J<6K:<>(+"&%&G:N@?6K>@ oldest such site found in Iceland. BDC96N";G>96N,#(%"&-#&*#H6IJG96N,#(%"&,#(%#HJC96N-#(%"&,#%%

The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2014 14

Food | YUM! Ram’s Balls, And Sheep’s Heads, And Smoked Horse, Oh My! Getting a taste for Icelandic traditions at an Ásatrú Þorrablót — Larissa Kyzer

stand and sing for the women, and later shreds into a small pyramid next to their in the evening, the women return the fa- empty beer cans. On the other side of the vour. Song pamphlets were laid out on the room, conversation muted to a low hum tables, although everyone—including the while the mid-feast entertainment began: new recruits at my table—seemed to know Eyvindur Pétur Eiríksson performed a the words by heart. long, rhythmic oral poem accompanied by After the singing, we were invited to drumming on the body of a handy banjo. help ourselves to the buffet-style feast. Accompanied by three friends, a young Making my way around the table, I was man performed an a cappella version of given many little bits of advice. Make sure the folksong “Krummavísur” ("Raven to get plenty of hákarl—it’s good for diges- Rhymes") while playing his chain mail tion. Spread lots of butter on the harðfiskur with a spoon, like a washboard. ("dried fish"). The eye is the best part of the It was at that point that my taste buds svið ("sheep’s head"). suffered their only real shock of the eve- Filling my plate, I ended up with a ning, in the form of one of the many sour veritable rainbow of sausages and pressed dishes. “The trick [with sour Þorri food],” meats: pink, red, brown, grey, and a quea- writes Icelandic food blogger and transla- Sigrun sy marbled white. Not wanting to look tor Jóhanna G., “is to get it sour enough greedy—and honestly, a little unsure that to tell where it's been, but not so sour that At the end of January, mere weeks after most Icelanders have packed away their I would make it through the full plate—I you can't tell what it is.” This bit of wisdom skipped the svið the first time out. By ac- had been buzzing around in my head as I Christmas decorations and returned to the daily grind, the midwinter festival of cident, I also missed the slices of pressed sampled the various dishes, finding, hap- ram’s testicles. (Full disclosure: I did end pily, that most were decently satisfying. Þorri arrives to bolster spirits and brace stomachs. up trying the former—it’s…chewy—but “Here,” my companion said, putting a skipped the latter. No regrets there.) disk of something cold, soft, and whiteish Back at the table, my dinner compan- on my plate. “Try the sour whale.” Word to A celebration of bygone traditions and Brennivín—Iceland’s caraway-flavoured from natural materials such as linen and ion gustily carved into her sheep head and the wise: if you come to Iceland in search an opportunity to indulge in some of the schnapps which has, as far as I’m con- wool, are a better representation of Ice- explained to me the best method of eating of whale, let it not be sour. The flavour of country’s more challenging culinary his- cerned, fully earned its “Black Death” land’s cultural history. Plus, she laughed, ear cartilage. I took her word for it and this one, experimental bite stuck with me, tory, the food served at a Þorri feast, or honorific—but I’d been warned that the “they are really comfortable.” tried to show my sympathy when she dis- reasserting itself unexpectedly for over 48 Þorrablót, is the stuff of many foreigners’ caustic burning of a Brennivín shot is key We planted ourselves across from two hours, three teeth-brushings, several cups most elaborate fears and suspicions about to surviving some of Þorri’s more potent long-time members of Ásatrú, who gener- Filling my plate, I ended of coffee, and a beer. Give me a sheep’s face Icelandic cuisine. And basically, that’s part dishes. Alas. ously accepted my laboured, grammatical- up with was a veritable any day, just oh god, please no more sour of the fun. Over the course of the month- The ammoniac odour of hákarl, that ly-tragic Icelandic and would, throughout whale. long Þorri season, Icelanders are expected “putrefied shark,” preceded us upstairs the night, provide a general commentary rainbow of sausages and to eat 200 tons of Þorri food, but you’d be to the hall, as did the more inviting scent on the evening’s proceedings. On our pressed meats: pink, Something Old, Something New hard pressed to find many residents bolt- of smoked lamb. My companion and I other side was a group of friends and new ing down sour sausages and pickled ram’s were then greeted at the door by a young Ásatrú members in their early twenties— red, brown, grey, and a As the feasting portion of the evening testicles during the rest of the year. man wearing a long green wool tunic bearded and multi-pierced with runic tat- queasy marbled white came to a close, we leaned back, refilling and brown wool breeches tucked into toos and a jovial, if slightly irreverent, ap- our water glasses. The evening’s main BYOB: Bring Your Own Bravery soft leather boots, overlain by a real chain proach to the evening. covered that her svið was, in fact, missing entertainment—a musical comedy duo mail shirt and a decorative collar. Jóhanna its most delicious eye. We swapped various called “Hundur í óskilum” who specialise Every year, Iceland’s Ásatrú Association, Harðardóttir, the Ásatrú Association’s The Meat Rainbow unidentified meats. Feeling appropriately in wholesome, but frankly pretty hilarious an officially recognised religious group Deputy High Priestess—herself in a decadent, I made a return circuit of the novelty songs about Icelandic history and whose members practice a modern form simple but festive red linen dress with bell Guests settled in as Hilmar Örn Hilmars- buffet, filling up again on some of my saga heroes, as well as all manner of ab- of Norse paganism steeped in Icelandic sleeves—then invited us to take a seat. son, Ásatrú’s high priest, came forward familiar favourites—smoked lamb, salted surdist music-making—flutes made out traditions and mythology, hold their own There were ten tables set on either side with Jóhanna and Eyvindur Pétur Eiríks- lamb, and a dark red sausage of a jerky-like of orthopaedic walkers, recorders played Þorrablót on Bóndadagur, or Husband’s/ of the room, with somewhere around 70 son, the Ásatrú goði, or chief, representing consistency. If the woman on my right had with belly-buttons and noses—quickly Farmer’s Day, the first day of Þorri. They guests in attendance. The crowd was dis- the Westfjords. Raising an ‘oath ring’ and not caught me mid-bite and summarily in- had the whole room in stitches. invited us to join their celebration and ex- tinctly mixed—a few family groups with drinking from a sacred horn, the trio sanc- formed me, while daintily cutting up her Meanwhile, my tablemates had one perience a real Þorrablót first-hand. several generations sitting together, small- tified the gathering with a toast to both the headcheese, that she did not eat horse “on last coup de grâce to finish off the meal: I’d just gotten off the bus and was er groups of friends, probably in their thir- Norse god Þór (who serves as a sort of pa- principal,” I’d have never known the differ- a shot of tequila accompanied by a slice of walking to the banquet venue when I ties and forties, a few children. tron of the feast) and Mother Earth. ence. orange sprinkled with cinnamon. Some- got a text message from one of my din- Although certainly in the minority, a Following this short ceremony, two how, I could wrap my head around whey- ing companions. “Uh oh,” it read. “Looks handful of the other guests were also members, a man and a woman, were Try The Sour Whale pickled meat, but not tequila without salt like it’s BYOB.” (A good rule of thumb in wearing period clothing. As Jóhanna ex- invited to stand and deliver humorous and lime. Seeing the skepticism on my Iceland: always bring your own.) While plained, although Icelanders do have an speeches, each about the opposite gen- All at once, the party began to both pick face, one of the men poured me a small maintaining a clear head is never a bad official national costume—it was actually der. “This is traditional,” Jóhanna said. “A up and simmer down. At one end of my shot and handed over the affronting ac- idea while “on assignment,” the knowl- designed in the mid-19th century as part man talks about women, and vice versa. own table, a woman accidentally doused companiment. “Here,” he said. “Here’s edge that all of the night’s delicacies would of the campaign for Icelandic indepen- They are always funny and sarcastic, but her date in red wine and dissolved into something new you can try now in Ice- have to be sampled without anaesthetic dence—many Ásatrú members think that they end happily.” The speeches are also giggles while her friends gathered the land.” gave me a moment’s pause. I’m no fan of more traditional medieval clothes, made accompanied by songs. First, the men various bones and discarded sausage

The Modern Day Origins Of A Medieval Feast “In the old days,” Ásatrú’s Jóhanna are a twentieth century phenomenon, methods and encouraging patrons to Harðardóttir says, “Þorri was celebrated as cookbook author and food historian dig in with their bare hands, “the food because it fell in the very middle of win- Nanna Rögnvaldardóttir explains in was served in long wooden trays along- ter, with the same amount of time be- 'Icelandic Food and Cookery.' “Even side sharp knives and hand basins,” tween winter solstice and the equinox.” though Þorri feasts were held at mid- writes ethnologist Árni Björnsson. With spring on its way, people didn’t winter in pagan times,” she writes, “The food served at Naustið in- have to keep up their winter food stores “there is really nothing that connects cluded, among other things, sour svið and so they had a feast with their left- them to the present day feasts of the (sheep’s heads), lundabaggar (pressed overs (a sort of day after Thanksgiving, same name.” sour lamb sausage), hangikjöt (smoked Viking-style). As time passed and the The large catered Þorrablót ban- lamb), hrútspungar (ram’s testicles) Icelandic diet became less dependent quets of today owe their resurgence and pickled in sour whey, hákarl (fermented on preserved foods, however, the Þorri popularity to Naustið (“Boathouse”), a shark), bringukollur (fatty breast of traditions abated somewhat. “Maybe restaurant that was located on Vestur- lamb, served on the bone with pickling people still ate this food in their homes,” gata in downtown Reykjavík from 1954 brine), flatbread, and rye bread. Follow- Jóhanna said, “but not as part of a big until the early 2000s and is widely cred- ing this, the consumption of traditional feast.” ited with offering the first Þorri menu Icelandic food products at Þorri greatly Alísa Kalyanova In fact, the Þorrablót feasts of today in 1958. Following traditional serving increased.” OPEN: WEEKDAYS 11-19 THURSDAYS 11-21 SATURDAYS 11-18 SUNDAYS 13-18 SMARALIND.IS FIND US ON

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Feature | Gunnar Nelson The Calm Warrior Gunnar Nelson takes life one fight at a time — Tómas Gabríel Benjamin

Nanna Dís

Bouncing back and forth inside the octagon-shaped cage in Nottingham, England, Icelandic fighter Gunnar Nelson lands a kick to DaM- arques Johnson’s head, evades a flurry of blows, and then pulls his opponent down to the canvas. Avoiding a shoulder lock, he then secures a hold of his opponent’s back and slowly but surely slips his right forearm under DaMarques’s chin, finishing him with a “rear-naked choke.” DaMarques taps out, forfeiting within the first four minutes, securing Gunnar his first win in the Ultimate Fighting Championship (UFC), Mixed Martial Arts’ (MMA) premier league.

Joining the league two years ago, Gun- It became apparent after a few their division. These changes toward his grandparents on their farm in come out of these fights with bruises nar is Iceland’s only fighter signed on years that no one martial art was su- a more professional game have cata- Ólafsfjörður. and black eyes, but they rarely get se- to the UFC. He is part of the new gen- perior to others, as an MMA fighter pulted the UFC to the forefront of the As a kid growing up in North Ice- riously injured,” he says. “Even if the eration of MMA fighters who grew up had to be proficient at fighting both MMA world. land, he tells me he was fascinated by sport looks rough to some, there are watching UFC fights and has trained standing and on the ground. To that the action film star Bruce Lee and the many crueller and uglier things in in multiple martial arts from a young end, the marriage of Thai kickboxing A Young Fighter video game Mortal Kombat. When he life. That’s just how it is.” age. The 180 cm tall welterweight (77 and Brazilian jiu jitsu was particularly moved to Reykjavík, he quickly be- In 2007, he dropped out of upper kg) has a record of eleven victories and fortuitous, with the former combin- In anticipation of his next fight in came immersed in Karate, winning one draw against competitors from ing punches, kicks, elbows and knees March, Gunnar invites me to meet the Icelandic Juvenile Championship “The more relaxed you around the world in a sport that was for a diverse striking arsenal on the him at his parents' house after a fam- titles in 2003, 2004 and 2005. He was unheard of in Iceland just ten years feet, and the latter offering holds, ily lunch. Sitting down with Gunnar, selected as Iceland’s most promising are, the easier it is to ago and remains illegal to compete in; joint locks and chokes for a plethora it is apparent that he embodies the an- up-and-coming Karate talent of 2005, come up with a strat- boxing has been banned since 1956 , of ground and grappling submissions. tithesis to the testosterone-fuelled al- and joined the national team before although an exception was made for Other martial arts also found a home pha male. He is humble, relaxed and losing interest in the stagnant sport. egy, but you can’t get Olympic boxing in 2002. inside the cage, including Japanese non-confrontational. That year, his friend and current stuck thinking about MMA is a full contact sport in Karate and Judo, Russian Sambo and Outside of the ring, he describes director of Mjölnir, Jón Viðar Arnþórs- which fighters test their mettle western wrestling and boxing. himself as “just a typical guy” who son, invited Gunnar to join a pro- it—you perform on in- against one another, drawing from As the sport grew in the late ‘90s, likes to hang out with his friends, gramme consisting of techniques from stinct, not on thought.” a toolbox of different fighting styles. so too did the rules of the game, en- go swimming at the various pools of grappling and Brazilian jiu jitsu. “It’s When the UFC started airing tourna- suring the safety of competitors inside Reykjavík and sit down over a cup of such an incredibly technical sport,” he secondary school to become a full- ment-style competitions in the early and outside of the ring. Tournament- coffee. He is a frequenter of art gal- says, “unlike anything else I had ever time MMA fighter, working a series ‘90s, it brought masters from differ- style competitions were abandoned leries and during the warmer parts done.” After getting a taste of grap- of menial jobs to finance his passion ent disciplines together to duke it out within the UFC and replaced by nine of the year he can be spotted riding pling, Gunnar left Karate behind and before getting a sponsor. That year he until an opponent was knocked un- weight divisions. Events now include his motorcycle through downtown focused on mastering Brazilian jiu jitsu went on to improve his fighting skills conscious or submitted. In the first several matches, each consisting of Reykjavík. Sitting at the top echelons and MMA. in Dublin and Manchester before UFC event, a kickboxer fought a Sumo three five-minute rounds in which of the worldwide MMA ladder and Instead of being dissuaded by the making his MMA debut in Denmark. wrestler, a Brazilian jiu jitsu fighter fighters compete to progress through competing in its biggest fight circuit, brutal reputation of MMA fights, Gunnar has since travelled far and clashed with a boxer and a Greco-Ro- the rankings of their weight class un- Gunnar treasures the opportunity to Gunnar was drawn to their unfettered wide, going to New York to earn his man wrestler took on a Karate fighter. til they can challenge the champion of escape the city and spend time with displays of competition. “Competitors black belt in Brazilian jiu jitsu from

nounced a draw by the Danish judges. December 9 - Defeats English Barry September 29 - Defeats Frenchman Mairs with a first round knockout Driss El Bakara by a first round arm- (3:38) at Angrrr Management: Get bar submission (3:46) at Cage Rage ready for WAR in Weston Super Mare, Contenders: Dynamite in Dublin, England. Ireland.

October 6 - Defeats Polish Adam 2007 Slawinski with a first round techni- 2008 cal knockout (2:30) at UFR 10 - Tribal May 5 - Competes in his first MMA Warfare in Galway, Ireland. November 24 - Defeats Dutch Niek September 6 - Defeats Brazilian Iran fight at the Adrenaline Sports tour- Tromp with a first round technical Mascarenhas with a second round nament in Copenhagen against Dan- knockout (1:50) at Cage of Truth: Bat- knockout (3:22) at the Adrenaline 3: Evo- ish John Olesen. The fight was pro- tle on the Bay in Dublin, Ireland. lution in Copenhagen, Denmark. 17

Nanna Dís

Renzo Gracie in 2009, but his base of fights, he was paid $5,000 for each in.” The gym’s membership has gone to hang out with my friends and relax,” His next scheduled fight is with operations has always been Iceland. with a $5,000 win bonus, according to from ten to 1,200, offering boxing, Gunnar says. “It’s not good to put your Russian Omari Akhmedov on March the UFC, which releases the salary of grappling, MMA and combat condi- mind into the cage before you step into 8, at London’s O2 Arena. Omari has A Full-Time Job its fighters after each fight. As fighters tioning classes. “Some come to the it. You obviously know what’s about earned a name for himself as a fin- climb up in the rankings, their salaries gym wearing suits, and others paint- to come, what everyone is waiting for, isher of fights, knocking out his last Today, Gunnar’s record reflects this increase, with champions of each weight er’s overalls,” Gunnar says. and it is scary, but it’s important not to opponent after a spectacular scrap in strength in grappling, with seven division being paid up to $400,000 just The coaches at Mjölnir aren’t too be afraid of being afraid.” his UFC debut. Omari has won 12 of of his eleven victories coming from worried about a police crackdown for “Then when you get into the cage,” his 13 matches, finishing five in the grappling submissions, primarily “It’s not good to put training fighters in a sport that’s il- he says, “you feel like you are where you first of three rounds, two of which he the rear-naked choke, a sleeper hold legal to compete in domestically. “It’s need to be, and it’s all finally happen- ended in the first two minutes. With a which can knock people out in a mat- your mind into the cage all done in a protected environment ing.” Even in describing this rush of record of such early wins, one of Gun- ter of seconds without causing any before you step into it. under proper supervision,” he says, emotions, Gunnar looks calm, almost nar’s keys to victory may lie in surviv- lasting damage. Gunnar, however, “and besides, we have practically all serene. “That’s when the fun begins.” ing Omari’s early onslaught and not cannot depend on his prodigious You obviously know of the police force training here.” In post-fight interviews, many fight- engaging in a rough brawl. ground skills alone and focuses on what’s about to come, Several members compete in inter- ers talk about fight plans, complicated Omari has a strong background in being a well-rounded fighter. national grappling tournaments and thought processes during a critical the Russian Sambo martial art, which “It’s satisfying to master certain what everyone is wait- professional MMA fights, although moment in the match, and what they Gunnar describes as often being wild moves, and maintain them through ing for, and it is scary. they haven’t garnered as much atten- expected from their opponents. Gun- and reckless. “They aren’t as techni- practice, but it is equally important tion as Gunnar, as his winning streak nar, in contrast, says he doesn’t think cal as us Brazilian jiu jitsu practitio- to get a good feeling for areas that But it’s important not continues. The Icelandic state media about anything, or follow any premed- ners when it comes to grappling on the need improvement,” he says. “You to be afraid of being has shown Gunnar considerable in- itated plan. He says—much like the ground,” he says, “but they are capable constantly have to work on the weaker terest, inviting him to talk shows and 17th century warrior-philosopher Mi- of everything.” Gunnar believes Omari’s parts of your fight game, it’s about be- afraid.” interviews, but Gunnar doesn’t let it yamoto Musashi did in his magnum extensive experience will make him a ing a complete fighter.” go to his head. “You may have less pri- opus ‘The Book Of Five Rings’—that very tough opponent, but he believes Fight commentators have remarked for stepping into the ring. vacy with fame,” he says, “but you can thought was slow compared to in- that will also be Omari’s weakness. “He since his start that he looks less fluid Additionally, Gunnar teaches a few harness that attention and transform stincts and reflexes. might overreach and leave himself ex- standing on his feet, but he silenced classes at the rapidly growing local it into extra energy for when the going “Occasionally, I’ll have a tactical posed as he charges forward.” his critics in his last fight with Jorge gym Mjölnir. When Gunnar joined gets tough.” thought, but it’s about instinct,” he Gunnar’s performance at this com- Santiago by showing that he could Jón Viðar’s grappling programme in says. “You react a lot quicker when ing fight may very well dictate his place stand confidently and trade blows. 2004, there were no more than ten Staying Calm In The Cage you don’t think about what you are in the UFC’s welterweight division and Following this fight, US sports net- people training. Without any Icelan- doing, so I’ll try to think as little as how quickly he can be counted amongst work ESPN picked him as one of three dic phenoms to guide them, students Last year, when Gunnar stepped into possible, instead focusing on what the top ten contenders, or make a run breakout UFC candidates for 2014. relied on fight tapes and instructional the UFC ring for the first time, a goal is happening and acting on instinct. at the title. Not surprisingly, Gunnar Having recovered from a torn me- DVDs. “We were just roughhousing,” most MMA fighters yearn to reach, he The more relaxed you are, the easier it doesn’t want to count his chickens be- niscus knee surgery last spring, he Gunnar says, “browsing the internet didn't appear animated, excited or is to come up with a strategy, but you fore they hatch. “I’m just focused on my- is back to training every day of the to pick up new techniques.” Initially nervous. He simply stepped in calmly, can’t get stuck thinking about it—you self and what’s in front of me,” he says, working week, once or twice a day for the students were rolling around on stretched, and waited for the fight to perform on instinct, not on thought.” displaying that uncanny calm demean- at least three hours in order to be in the scratchy Karate gym mats, but start, as if he were going for a workout our that you see from him in the cage. shape and ready at all times for the over time the programme became on any given Friday afternoon. The Road Ahead next fight in case the UFC promoters more serious and merged with anoth- That’s not to say he doesn’t get ner- offer him a match with short notice. er grappling club, becoming Mjölnir. vous or scared before a fight like every- Gunnar says his ultimate goal is to Gunnar gets paid per fight in ad- “Now we have a massive club, one one else. “When you are at your hotel challenge the UFC champion for the dition to his sponsorship deals with of the biggest and best in Europe, and with the other fighters nearby and title. “I can easily see that happening JACO Clothing sports brand and Ice- we have many high calibre athletes,” journalists everywhere, it’s easy to lose in the next couple of years,” he says, land’s CCP Games. For his two UFC he says. “It’s now a great club to train yourself and get nervous, but I just try without batting an eye.

August 28 - Defeats English Danny September 29 - Defeats American Mitchell with a first round rear-na- DaMarques Johnson with a first ked choke submission (2:51) at Cage round rear-naked choke submission Contender VI - Nelson vs. Mitchell in (3:34) at UFC on Fuel TV 5 in Not- Manchester, England. tingham, England.

September 25 - Defeats English Eugene Fadiora with a first round standing rear-naked choke submis- 2010 sion (3:51) at Bamma 4 in Birming- 2012 2013 ham, England. February 13 - Defeats English Sam February 25 - Defeats Ukrainian Al- February 16 - Defeats Brazilian Jorge Elsdon with a first round rear-naked exander Butenko with a first round Santiago by unanimous decision after choke submission (2:30) at BAMMA 2 armbar submission (4:21) at Cage Con- three full five minute rounds at UFC on in London, England. tender 12 in Dublin, Ireland. Fuel TV 7 in London, England. The Reykjavík Grapevine IssueThe 1 — 2011 Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2014 Music 18 The18 Festival Season Harpa Hypnotised Is Upon Us By Philip Glass

REVIEW

Nanna Dís

Words By Davíð Roach and Óli Dóri Hörður Sveinsson

The first couple of months of the year are usually pretty Philip Glass Études uneventful music-wise, but the upcoming Sónar festival later this month is something to look forward to. The festi- January 28 Harpa Eldborg hall. val was born in Barcelona in 1994, and has since been held there every summer in addition to travelling to a number Words of other cities. This year marks the second Reykjavík edi- John Rogers tion and, having attended last year, we can attest that it is This presentation of the Philip Glass and humble, onto the stage. and bringing with her a bright, exu- a sensory experience on all fronts. An étude, taken from the French for "study," is a short, often highly challenging piece de- signed to expand the playing technique of a musician. This often involves an intentionally This year we’re psyched to see inter- were stopped by hurricane Sandy, and difficult mixture of techniques, sometimes including sharp swings in mood or tempo or national acts like bombastic dance- Neil Young who will play a gig at Lau- mind-bending, finger-tangling time signatures. Over the years, many notable composers hall project Major Lazer, Danish gardalshöll in an extended programme techno wunderkind Trentemoller, dubbed the ATP Takeover Series. have written them, with the resulting works sometimes judged to have merit enough to the progged out electronica of James Iceland Airwaves, which takes place be performed in repertoire. Holden and ambient techno maestro November 5-9 this year, just announced Jon Hopkins, whose set at Iceland the first 17 artists who will perform. The Airwaves astounded us. On the domes- festival will close with the legendary études was the first time I'd heard Addressing the piano casually, berant energy that saw her literally tic front, we’re also looking forward to American indie band The Flaming of the form, but the idea of a great with shoulders back, and moving bouncing from the stool at times. seeing some bands that don’t play very Lips, which actually played Airwaves composer writing short pieces with little throughout, the opening piece When the rapid, swirling central often like GusGus, Einóma and Mind in 2000 when the festival took place a non-standard aim is an interest- hit a sombre note, employing some motif of the piece slowed in the final in Motion, a pioneer band of the Ice- for the second time. That was our first ing proposition. For a start, music of his trademark flurries of notes, moments, it was like the phrase be- landic rave scene in the early '90s that Airwaves and one of our finest festival designed to stretch a performer will tumbling forth in tight patterns held came comprehensible in a new way; will be reuniting for the occasion. memories. We can’t wait to have Wayne likely involve an entertaining display within an atmospheric progres- her face broke into a smile, like a While Sónar is underway, other and the gang back! of technique, allowing an accom- sion. The structure felt like some- magician happy to reveal her trick. festivals are in the planning stages. A Other artists announced are East plished pianist to show an audience thing of an inquiry—a mapping out Víkingur Ólafsson took the stage new festival called Secret Solstice was India Youth, Jungle and Blaenavon exactly "what they can do"—like of territory within a predetermined with a scholarly air, and a wel- announced for June with Massive from the UK, La Femme from France, a license to showboat. Then, the framework, with small but notice- come sense of theatre—he paused Attack as the main act. ATP also an- Jaakko Eino Kalevi from Finland, Tiny idea of pushing the possibilities able variations showing how a mel- and looked into the audience for nounced the first artists booked for the Ruins from New Zealand and John of playing, without the pressure of ody might develop or deteriorate five solid seconds before suddenly July festival at Ásbrú. Legendary Bristol Wizards from South Africa. The Ice- declaring the composition a com- through imperfect repetition, not starting to play, with one hand still trip hop group Portishead and New landic artists Muck, Snorri Helgason, pleted work, might yield interesting unlike a precise musical description resting in his lap. His finger work York rockers Interpol will be headlin- Tonik, Samaris, Mammút, Grísalap- results—like a playground for ideas. of xerography. was sharp and technical, and he ing on Friday and Saturday. Kurt Vile palísa, Vök, Just Another Snake Glass has written twenty études leaned into the keys, peering down will play on Thursday. His latest album, Cult and Highlands are also playing. over the last two decades, collect- ''The opening piece hit a like a surgeon into the rippling, ed- ‘Walking On A Pretty Daze,’ scored Not only are the Flaming Lips re- ed together here, and performed sombre note, employing dying cascade of the piece. The high on our list of best albums of last turning to Iceland this year, but also the by Víkingur Heiðar Ólafsson, Maki crowd's response upon the sudden, year. Other notable international acts acclaimed alternative band Pixies, who Namekawa and Glass himself. some of his trademark unexpected cut off point was thun- are the electronic noise terrorists Fuck played two shows in Hafnarfjörður back Counted amongst the most popular flurries of notes, tumbling derous. Buttons, experimental rock group in 2004. They are slated to play a show living composers, his music is dis- forth in tight patterns The Phillip Glass études feel Swans, who were supposed to per- at Laugardalshöll in June. tinctive and unconventional whilst more like a masterclass than an ex- form at Iceland Airwaves in 2012, but We have a lot to look forward to… appealing to a large audience out- held within an atmo- ercise, offering a fascinating and at side of the traditional classical spheric progression. times dizzying range of tone, struc- crowd. As such, there it felt like the ture and dynamic variation, and the Straumur has been active since last summer, with writers Óli Dóri and people in Harpa's Eldborg hall col- The differing styles of the three audience drifted out into the night Davíð Roach documenting the local music scene and helping people discover new music at straum.is. It is associated with the radio show lectively leaned forward and craned pianists lay in stark contrast. Name- beaming from the musical feast. Straumur on X977, which airs every Monday evening at 23:00. their necks to get a good look at the kawa arrived with a charming flour- great man as he shuffled, stooped ish, striking the keys emphatically

The National Museum of Iceland

Along with the permanent exhibition that features Iceland’s history from settlement to present day the museum offers a variety of exhibitions during the year, e.g. on Icelandic silver and photography.

www.thjodminjasafn.is Suðurgata 41 / 101 Reykjavík 19 Music

Amazing Album Reviews 6 course menu

Tilbury Northern Comfort 2013 A subtle and quietly A unique Icelandic Feast remarkable set of songs that ask questions of the listener.

Words John Rogers Starts with a shot of the Icelandic national spirit “Brennivín“ It seems fair to say that most are almost whispered, with such a flat Arctic char forms of entertainment value delivery that it seems Þormóður would with cucumber andcoriander a certain sense of drama. From almost rather not be heard at all. His Smoked puffin Shakespeare to Wuthering Heights to sense of abiding stoicism is Tilbury's with yuzu mayo Citizen Kane to Arcade Fire, situations defining characteristic, and it’s played Minke whale and stories are often presented through a out in the band’s lyrics. “Turbulence,” with celeriac purée certain lens and with a story arc designed a masterful standout track, presents to accentuate the dramatic tension in the in-flight buffeting as an allegory for life Reindeer burger subject matter. events that intrude into inner calm—in with portobello mushroom This is, perhaps, what makes for this case, the emotions associated with Icelandic free range lamb fillet gripping entertainment—escapism, or a falling in love. The chorus of the track with cinnamon potato break from the norm. Because, for many, blossoms beautifully, with the line “I’m And to end on a high note .... large parts of daily life are noticeably smiling on the inside” knowingly tipping “Skyr“ panna cotta with white chocolate undramatic, made up of quotidian tasks the lyricist's hand. and raspberry sorbet like shopping, cooking, commuting, It’s one of the few moments on working, bill-paying, etc. So it could ‘Northern Comfort’ to get the listener's equally be said that continuous portrayals pulse racing, but there’s something 6.990 kr. of high drama create a distance and compelling about the approach shown Hverfisgata dissonance between the contents of art here. Perhaps it’s that this reservedness Lækjargata Lækjar- torg and life. comes from an understandable desire Laugavegur When Lars Von Trier and the to avoid social conflict, as spelled out

Dogme 95 film movement arrived and in the lyrics of “Cool Confrontation,” or, Skólavör attempted to tell stories without the perhaps, from an internal battle with the Skólastræti Ingólfsstræti ð Amtmannsstígur ust. ingholtsstræti trappings of dramatic narrative, such as difficulty of sharing oneself, as described Our kitchen is open Þ sushisamba background music and special effects, on “Shook Up." Both will be easy to relate 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. Þingholtsstræti 5 ( 101 Reykjavík it was considered an avant-garde to for many, and aren't the easiest of 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat. Tel 568 6600 ( sushisamba.is approach. And something about Tilbury’s topics to pin down in a pop song. music brings the Dogme movement Musically, there’s much to to mind. The melodies on their second admire in ‘Northern Comfort.’ There’s album, ‘Northern Comfort,’ are sparingly craftsmanship in both the songwriting arranged, tightly played, perfectly formed, and the playing, and the airy production One Ticket - Three Museums without much adornment. Band mainstay is warm and clear throughout. “Frozen” Þormóður Dagsson's vocals are delivered offers a magical, twinkling melody, and Hafnarhús plainly and plaintively, without overt the choruses on tracks like “Animals” Tryggvagata 17, emotion. There is a sense of purposeful are catchy and likeable. Overall, the 101 Rvk. reserve that runs through all aspects of album leaves a light footprint, somehow. Open 10-17 the album. It's an enjoyable listen, and whether Thursdays 10-20 In this respect, Tilbury’s music ‘Northern Comfort’s’ particularly subtle presents a marked contrast to the and unassuming brand of perfection will rehearsed, quasi-emotional content continue to resonate over the long term is of much contemporary pop or rock ’n’ something only time can tell. roll. On the LP's title track, the lyrics Kjarvalsstaðir Flókagata, 105 Rvk. Open 10-17

Sveinn Guðmundsson Visit Iceland´s largest network of art museums in three unique buildings Ásmundarsafn Fyrir Herra Spock, MacGyver Og Mig Open Daily Sigtún, 105 Rvk. 2013 May-Sept.: Open 10-17 Weedy as wank, must try Okt.-Apr.: harder. Open 13-17 www.artmuseum.is Guided tour in English available every Friday at Tel: (354) 590 1200 11am. in June, July and August at Kjarvalsstaðir

Words Bob Cluness

Sveinn Guðmundsson’s debut content leaves a lot to be desired. album is pretty much your Peppering the album with retro pop standard issue bread and butter culture references (see the album title) lo-fi Icelandic folk twiddle. A deferential already sends off red flags, but for an mix of gently strummed guitars, soft chewy album of self-referential writing, it’s full bass notes, comfy melodica wheezes, and of witless, inane stuff such as happy little trombone (the Comic Sans of instruments) wolves (“Úlfar”), being all warm and cosy splayed across the board. at home (“Heima”) and ‘finding yourself’ Initially, it all adds up to a seemingly in a game of hide and seek (“Feluleikur”). competent, well-produced album. Yet A Song like “Skuggar og Sár” (“Shadows the feeling you get from listening to ‘Fyrir and wounds”) consists of nothing but lines Herra Spock…’ is one of superficiality. such as “My shadow/Your shadow/My Beneath the spindly notes and smiles, the wounds/Your wounds” ad infinitum. Barf! listlessness of music that has been done There are a couple of moments that over so many times before is palpable. rise about the insipidness. The second Music of this style needs to raise some half of “Fjöruferð” builds up a pretty kind of special evocation from the rousing group handclap/foot stomp, while minimal production, but here there are “MacGyver Og Ég” sees him crank up the no divergences from the template and guitar and start singing like he gives a the atmosphere generated is dull and damn. But these are lone spots in what is nondescript. an underperforming record. On top of this, the lyrical themes/ Issue 17 — 2013 Gravity can be seen in 3D at Bíó Paradís and will be out on DVD/Blu-Ray/VOD in early March. Film 20 Tackling Gravity Animation Director Daði Einarsson talks about the film’s technical challenges

Still from 'Gravity'

Words Óskar Bragi Stefánsson

When it comes to animation, Iceland’s Daði Einarsson is a real veteran. After spending several years working at London-based Framestore, Daði moved back to Iceland in 2008 to open an Icelandic branch of the renowned visual effects house.

The founder and creative director of determined by the animation that we around on a set, with a green-screen RVX has since worked on a number did beforehand. So the cameras, and background. Then after filming you of films here, including ‘Contraband’ actors and lights were all attached would remove the wires and add in (2012), Harry Potter and the Deathly to computer-controlled motion-rigs a computer generated background. Hallows: Part 2’ (2011) and ‘Clash of that we derived from our animation. The level of complexity to achieve the the Titans’ (2010). Despite being plenty So basically we had to lock-down the camera movements—the distance busy in Reykjavík, Daði was briefly lured movie before we ever went on set. travelled and multiple orbits that the back to London’s Framestore in 2010 to camera would take around the actor, work on ‘Gravity,’ a disaster-flick star- How did Alfonso describe the film or the actor around a light-source— ring Sandra Bullock and George Cloo- to you? called for some serious innovation. ney as a couple of astronauts struggling Alfonso is an intense and passion- Tim Webber [the visual effects for survival in the wake of an accident, ate storyteller. He was very visual supervisor], “Chivo” and the core adrift and alone in space, trying to get and precise about how he wanted Framestore team developed some- back home. the camera to relate to the environ- thing called the Light Box, which is ‘Gravity’ proved to be a box office ment. That was clear though from his a cube of LED panels. The anima- smash worldwide, closing in on 700 other films, such as ‘Children of Men,’ tion they received from us was then Borgartún 1 • www.thetincanfactory.eu million dollars in ticket sales. Further- which features these really long sin- reverse-engineered and split across more, it has been nominated for Acad- gle-take shots [single-take shots, three main robots, which controlled emy Awards in ten categories, includ- otherwise known as a ‘long take’ is travel and orientation of lights on ro- ing Best Picture, Best Director and Best an uninterrupted shot in a film which bot arms, of the camera and of the Learn Icelandic Visual Effects. We spoke to Daði about lasts longer than conventional edit- actor being spun around or moved by his work with the film’s director Alfonso ing pace would normally dictate]. He a robotic arm. Cuarón (‘Children of Men’) and what it likes to plan and think out what his So rather than having con- New classes every month was like to create this reality in outer camera is going to do. ventional lights as you would on a space. We were with him for six months, regular movie-set, most of the light- and every day he would describe to ing on the actors' faces was from Tell us, how did you get involved in us why he wanted to do something a LED panels, which can spin around the making of ‘gravity’? certain way and what he was think- in any direction you want them, at Morgunnámskeið Kvöldnámskeið When Framestore in London asked ing. It was an amazing time to have any speed you need them to. That Morning classes Evening classes me to be its animation director, the access to his thoughts and his pro- would have been impossible, without 4 vikur / 4 weeks 6 vikur / 6 weeks film was still in its early stages. I was cess in such a way. He works with innovation and inventing that tech- mán. til fim. mán. þri. fim. in Iceland running the company here, “Chivo” [nickname of Gravity’s di- nique. Mon. to Thu. Mon. Tue. Thu. and all of my family is here, so it was rector of photography and Alfonso’s 9:30–12:15 17:30–19:55 going to be a bit tricky, but I thought longtime collaborator, Emmanuel So what are you working on now? ‘Gravity’ sounded like a very interest- Lubezki] in developing that style. What’s next? 17.02.–13.03. 3.03.–10.04. ing project. A lot of the storytelling, Finding out how to achieve Alfonso’s Right now I’m on set in the Italian camera-work and animation were vision of what the camera-work Alps shooting 'Everest' with Baltasar Öll stig/All levels Öll stig/All levels done prior to any kind of shoot, so should be meant a lot of collabora- Kormákur. It stars Jason Clarke, Jake there was a big pre-production pe- tion between different departments. Gyllenhaal and Josh Brolin and is riod where we needed to animate Whether you’re doing fifteen-minute based on the true story of an expe- the movie with Alfonso Cuarón. single-take shots or three-minute dition that ended in disaster in 1996. Framestore talked me into coming single-take shots, you have to make We’re working in extremely harsh back and I started flying out on Mon- sure you’re doing it in a very elegant weather conditions in hard-to-get- Kvöldnámskeið Enska days and back on Fridays, and did and subtle way. to locations, but it’s looking fantastic Evening classes that for like half a year. Alfonso was also very, very already. Our job will be to make the 6 vikur / 6 weeks Spænska precise in his desire for things not to non-Nepal locations and studio sets mán. þri. fim. Ítalska How is ‘gravity’ different from other look like they were reacting to grav- look like they’re shot on and around Mon. Tue. Thu. films that you’ve worked on? ity, as the story takes place in zero- Mount Everest. We’ll be adding CG 20:00–22:15 fyrir börn og What we were doing was strictly, you gravity. As an animator, pretty much environments, snow and clouds fullorðna could call it, pre-vis’ [pre-visualiza- your entire background is based on amongst other things, so it’s quite a 03.03.–10.04. tion, the process of visualizing scenes understanding gravity: how to make big job. It will be released in February sjá heimasíðu before they are filmed through story- things look heavy or light. “Heavy” or 2015 in stereo [‘stereoscope’, i.e. 3D], thetincanfactory.eu Stig / Level 1, 2, 3 boarding using rough sketches or “light” doesn’t have any significance so that should keep us off the streets animated computer generated imag- in zero-gravity. for a while. ery]. Usually when you do pre-vis’ it’s BOOK NOW / TEL. 551 7700 to flesh-out ideas and then you shoot Was There A Need For Technical something and it comes back, kind Innovation, In Terms Of The Visual [email protected] of, in the ballpark of what you were Effects Needed For The Film? aiming for, and then most of the cre- There certainly was from our end, talk • read • cook • listen ative work happens after the shoot. as we had never really worked this field-work • food & fun With ‘Gravity,’ however, everything way. Traditionally you would attach that was shot on set with actors was the actors to wires and move them 21 Film What Did I just Watch? Ben Stiller’s ‘The Secret Life Of Walter Mitty’

“Out of this world!!!” CBondGirl - Calgary, Canada. Trip Advisor REVIEW

Still from 'The Secret Life of Walter Mitty'

Words Sindri Eldon

This film is odd. I can’t decide what it’s such ineptly sketched-out straw men supposed to be. that I’m inclined to believe they’re sup- Is it some sort of ad for Life Maga- posed to be some sort of meta-joke. zine? Because there’s certainly enough At its simplest, 'Secret Life' is a trav- “It certainly was the best of the many places we dined in Reykjavik!” unabashed celebration of the already el movie, showcasing with competent, FrequentFlyer513 - New York City, New York - Trip Advisor very self-important publication in ‘The tasteful but ultimately unimaginative Secret Life Of Walter Mitty,’ and ads cinematography the colour-coded lay- certainly feel longer and more ob- ers of modern New York and the pri- noxious every time I go to a theatre. I mal, rustic backwoods of Iceland, but BORG RESTAURANT  PÓSHÚSSTRÆTI 911  101 REYKJAVÍK wouldn’t put it past Life to just fish out once again, the comically caricatured blindly to have Hollywood spew out natives Ben Stiller’s titular photo editor TEL: +3545782020  INFOBORGRESTAURANT.IS  WWW.BORGRESTAURANT.IS a two-hour promo video and have it encounters in both locales leads one to shown across the world. I was half-ex- believe that the film is less paean and pecting a title card to come up after the more parody, with about as much basis end of the film saying “And now, since in reality as Mitty’s delusional episodes we’re done with all the advertising, it’s (which are by the way insanely obnox- time for our feature!” ious and masturbatory). We’re pretty And oh boy, is there ever advertis- much asked to believe Adrian Marti- ing in ‘Secret Life.’ Not just for Life, but nez’s character is a living, thinking hu- for Papa John’s, eHarmony, Cinnabon, man being because he owns a fern and Air Greenland, McDonalds and count- hugs people, while Ólafur Darri Ólafs- less others. And they aren’t just prod- son explains his entire character with uct placements; statements about the one non-sequitur about infidelity (and quality of the products are shame- while I’m sure he thinks his American lessly worked into the script. A major accent will get him work in the States, plot point of the film revolves around it’s just confusing to most people. What Papa John’s, and Patton Oswalt actu- would a drunk American helicopter pi- ally compares a Cinnabon to heroin. lot be doing singing karaoke in Green- They’re just that fucking good. I guess land? I don’t know. Do you?) if the film is supposed to contain some Normally, I wouldn’t fault a movie sort of statement about how corpora- for whimsy and unbelievability, but tions completely saturate our society, ‘Secret Life’ seems to be trying so hard then that’s cool, I suppose. God knows to be earthy and real. The dialogue is MADE IN ICELAND www.jswatch.com no one’s ever made a film about that relatively honest and adequate in a before. cutesy-wutesy-widdle kind of way, and With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Maybe in that way, ‘The Secret Life the characters all have several outra- Watchmaker ensures that we take our waterproofing rather seriously. Of Walter Mitty’ could be a ballad for geously unsubtle details and idiosyn- Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. crasies that seem to indicate a desire “I'm pretty sure ‘The Se- for realism. cret Life Of Walter Mitty’ But realistic for whom? Which exists solely because leads me to my next question: who is ‘Secret Life’ supposed to be for? The THE FRESHEST FISH ....AND IDEAS! Ben Stiller wanted to go young children who might be the only to Iceland. ” age group entertained by its wafer- Afer years of study, thin story and asinine characters? The strings of awards and the unsung heroes of Generation X, aforementioned Gen-Xers who are still having led kitchens of toiling as they do in near-anonymity looking for a reason to live? They won’t some of Reykjavík’s most while their dreams are whittled away fucking find it here, that’s for sure. Peo- esteemed restaurants, into nothing, or bottled and sold as ple who really want to go to Iceland, but Gústav still sees him products to be consumed by insuf- don’t have the money? There are other self as just a kid from ferable, idiotic Millennials such as films shot in Iceland that are far more up north, with a life- myself. My generation is represented nature porn than this is, and some of time passion for fish. in the film by the laughable-for-all- them even have a decent plot. the-wrong-reasons Adam Scott, who No, I’m pretty sure ‘The Secret Life seems to be trying his damndest to Of Walter Mitty’ exists solely because ensure absolutely everybody in the Ben Stiller wanted to go to Iceland. world will loathe that stuttering, post- I’m sorry, I know it’s an easy shot, and modernist improv banter that’s already probably the one I’m expected to make, been done to death by Seth Rogen and but I seriously can’t come to any other Will Ferrell in every movie they’re ever conclusion. Because any attempt to ra- in, and Kathryn Hahn, who struggles tionalise this shallow, narcissistic septic valiantly to turn her clichéd artsy free- tank of a film by daring to claim it has loading goofball into a believable (or at any artistic merit at all would be a crime SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 14 - 101 REYKJAVÍK - 571 1100 least entertaining) character, but to no against man, nature and the universe. avail. Both Scott and Hahn’s roles are Never, ever watch this film, ever. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2014 Sports 22

It’s Time To Give A Puck About Women’s Hockey Iceland has more to offer than football and handball, an activity that actually makes use of, you know, ice

Alex Baumhardt

day, she is also the director of Women’s but explodes and within the first five Words Hockey Development in Iceland, and as minutes, both teams have scored goals. Alex Baumhardt of 2011, there were 71 registered female The Akureyri players are fast and skil- ice hockey players in Iceland. ful, setting up well-orchestrated passes Today, Björninn are a fierce con- and calculated strikes on the net. On the shortest day of the year, the women’s hockey team from the Reykjavík suburb tender for Akureyri’s spot at the top, and But Björninn plays like a team that of Grafarvogur are on a long journey north. They go by the name Björninn (“The Bear”) the mixture of pre-game excitement drove six hours to beat the best team in and they’re driving 386 kilometres to play the Akureyri women’s team, one of two Iceland. They’re bold, taking risks and “Björninn plays like a skating wildly at the net, shooting at teams they can compete with in the entire country. every opportunity without reservation. team that drove six hours Björninn wins four to three, but Akurey- to beat the best team in ri put up a fight. By the end of the game, Björninn formed in 1998 at Laugardalur, When the Egilshöll ice rink was built sure. One of the players from Björninn Iceland.” Björninn goalie Guðlaug Ingibjörg Þor- Reykjavík’s sole ice rink. A few women, in Grafarvogur, Björninn left Reykjavík found the team when she heard it men- steinsdóttir has defended 35-shots-on- two of whom had been playing on the behind and moved the team out there, tioned on the radio a few years ago. and nerves speaks to the weight of this goal. Reykjavík men’s team, scouted open fifteen minutes from Laugardalur. The full Björninn roster is twenty- game in particular. Beating Akureyri on skate nights for women that could “Moving Björninn to Egilshöll meant or-so women who range in age from their rink isn’t common and it means The Future complete a team. “If they could skate, better ice times,” Flosrún says. It also 17-years-old to their mid-30s. Not all of that for the next game, Akureyri will we invited them to try ice hockey,” says meant becoming a better team than them make it to the games in Akureyri, have to play in Reykjavík. Small crowds and the small number of Flosrún Jóhannesdóttir, who has been SR Reykjavík. Björninn started practic- which can occur several times in one At the Akureyri Ice Arena, the men’s teams are likely to change as local me- with the team since the beginning. ing three to four times per week and in week during the playoff season, but team plays first, ending in overtime dia slowly pull their collective heads out 2005, when the Women’s National Team there are always enough on the ice to and a shootout in which a player from of the narrow ass of football and hand- Chicks With Sticks (The Iceland Falcons) was formed, sev- avoid forfeiting games. Grafarvogur nixed the team’s efforts ball coverage. eral of Björninn’s players were recruited by skating speedily towards the goalie, Hockey, women’s in particular, is While another women’s team, SR to it. Taking On Akureyri stopping abruptly and illegally spraying likely to receive far more mention over Reykjavík, formed to compete against Today, eight women from Björninn him with ice. the next year, starting April 24–30, Björninn, rink space wasn’t growing as also play for the National team, includ- The Akureyri team, which was first to The women play shortly after and, when Reykjavík hosts the qualifying fast as the demand to use it and prac- ing Flosrún who has played in two get started, is the best one. It had the quite shamelessly, the Arena charges games for the Division II International tices were becoming more limited. For world championships for the Denmark great fortune of getting Canadian Sar- entry to the men’s games but not the Ice Hockey Federation (IIHF) Women’s Ingibjörg Hjartardóttir, who started with Women’s National Ice Hockey Team. ah Smiley, who came to Akureyri eight women’s. In an ideal world, this would World Championship. Björninn in 1999 at 15, practicing late Despite experienced players like years ago to coach and play for the Ice- supposedly make the women’s games was tough with school the next morn- Flosrún and Ingibjörg, many of the land Women’s National team. more inclusive. Regardless, the men’s ing. “Sometimes we wouldn’t be able Björninn women have only been playing Smiley’s arrival can be traced to the game only has about ten more patrons to practice until 11:00 [p.m.],” she says, for the last three to five years, as hockey influx of women in northern Iceland on than the women’s fifteen or so. “but you did it because you loved it.” has gotten little—but growing—expo- skates with hockey sticks in hand. To- The game does not build-up slowly,

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SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍG 15, 101 REYKJAVÍK AND HARPA CONCERT HALL The Ligts Trail

The light installations are illuminated from 7pm until midnight during the festival, apart from Waking the Statues, which is illuminated from 7 - 11:30pm on the 7th, 8th, 9th, 14th and 15th February.

Waking the Statues by Kristján Kristjánsson, Örvar by Kitty Von Sometime 1. Halldórsson, Hafdís Bjarnadóttir, Arnar Leifsson and 6. Vallarstræti, 101 Reykjavík Sveinn S. Benediktsson The Einar Jónsson Museum, Eiríksgata, 101 Reykjavík Shine a light! 7. 2. Lys*arp by Ulf Pedersen Hitt Húsið, Austurstræti, 101 Reykjavík Hljómskálagarður, 101 Reykjavík

On the bridge by Tine Bech and Tarim The Customs House by Dario Nunez Salazar 3. Reykjavík City Hall, 101 Reykjavík 8. Tollhúsið, Tryggvagata 19, 101 Reykjavík

Glómosi by Rafkaup Holding hands with Reykjavík by Ólafur Elíasson 4. Reykjavík City Hall, 101 Reykjavík 9. Harpa, Austurbakki 2, 101 Reykjavík

Circle 6 by Inuk Silis Høegh, Arild M. Kalseth and Amelie Winter Night by students at the Technical College Reykjavík 5. Deschamps Fógetagarður by Aðalstræti, 101 Reykjavík 10. Skólavörðuholt, 101 Reykjavík.

Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre 9.

Tryggvagata 8.

Sæbraut Austurstræti7.

5. 6. 4. Vonarstræti Reykjavík Lækjargata City Hall Laugavegur ur 3. ð Skólavör

Tjörnin ð Tjarnargata ustígur urgata Hólavallagar ð Cemetery Su

Fríkirkjuvegur 10.

2. Skólavörðuholt

Sóleyjargata

Bjarkargata 1. Eiríksgata

Hringbraut Hallgrímskirkja Church

ðargata Njar The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2013 Issue 2 — 2014 Art 24

Art | Inspired by a glacier Know Thy Selfie The 'Behind' photography exhibition with Elo Vazquez

Courtesy of Elo Vasquez

Elo Vazquez 'Behind' Exhibition

FREE Entry Until The March Book 3Cover For 'SReykjavíkíðasti Elskhuginn' Museum Of Photography

Words Ben Smick When Elo Vazquez first began displaying her photography on the internet in 2002, the web was a great meeting place for photographers to share and discuss their art. “There was a really nice community of photographers from all over the world,” she says, “but that's completely over now.”

Now we live in the era of Facebook and having her picture taken. “I feel it's very hind by 'serious' photography.' She pre- Instagram, where our social media pro- violent,” she explains. So it was just a fers to show that Iceland is more than file has become our second self with small step from hiding from the camera massive landscape-photos of glaciers, our profile picture becoming our sec- to hiding behind one. waterfalls and the Northern Lights, all ond face. It’s become a world where to taken with expensive filters and photo- know thyself is to ‘know thy selfie.’ Iceland Unphotoshopped shopped to look technically perfect. In a Elo's exhibition entitled ‘Behind’ sense, Elo's exhibition portrays the real on display at the Reykjavík Museum None of Elo's photography is digital. Iceland, an Iceland unphotoshopped. of Photography is partly in response She proudly holds up her Canon ana- to this 'Great Selfie Era.' As she walks logue camera, which is an old clunky Face, Meet Branch me through it, Elo says what scares her point and shoot that looks like a black about this development is the fact that plastic brick. She demonstrates how Even though Elo’s exhibit makes a it is so “unnatural,” yet social media has she has to cover the flash with her statement about modern photography, made it commonplace for people to finger because the camera was found she believes that photography doesn’t constantly take pictures of themselves. broken by her boyfriend while he was have to be so serious and is proud of SPUNTINI going through a pile of junk from his the playful element in her photos. Behind The Frame teenage years. Pointing to a photograph of several small dogs rolling around on a lawn and Although she had known for two years "I don't feel that they show sceptically glancing at the camera, Elo that she would have an exhibition with the Iceland that everyone explains that there are several pieces in the Reykjavík Museum of Photography, her exhibition that are downright goofy, RISOTTO knows, and that's some- and that suits her just fine. The kitchen is open until Elo was still unsure exactly which piec- midnight on weekends es to display or how to organise them thing that I really like." And when it comes right down to it, 17:00 – 23:00 sun. – thu. until the week before the exhibition was Elo's desire for a light-hearted exhibit supposed to open. It was then, as she Despite being somewhat archaic— outweighs her distaste for digital pho- went through her archives of old pho- this camera no more belongs to the tography. “Digital photography is open- PASTA tographs, that Elo discovered a theme “Selfie Era” than bellbottoms or lava ing a whole new world that I would like of 'behindness' in her work. lamps—Elo loves how taking photos to explore somehow,” she says. The A number of the pictures in Elo's with the analogue camera keeps every- transition just isn't easy and is definitely collection show individuals posing in thing spontaneous and in the moment. going to take some time. different situations with their faces cov- She feels that digital photography is In fact, she encourages visitors to ered by objects, such as a fir branch or "almost like cheating," because you can take digital photos of themselves at CLASSICS a doorframe. Elo points to a photograph take the same picture over and over her exhibit. Not a selfie, of course, but of someone sitting in a car with their again until you get it just right, whereas a photo where their faces are masked. face covered by a bouquet of flowers, with analogue photography you only A plaque on the wall reads “There is which she took at a wedding in a small have a single chance to capture a single a branch there. Get behind it. Take a town in the Czech Republic. instant. picture. Share it somewhere. #behind- DESSERTS She says that part of her desire for Because of her refusal to use digi- behind," goading visitors to spread the this style of photography comes from tal photography, Elo sees her exhibi- anti-selfie movement onto their Face- her own shyness. She admits she's not tion portraying a side of Iceland that's book pages. UNO at Ingólfstorg | Tel. 561 1313 | www.uno.is a very outgoing person and never en- been more than a bit overlooked and joyed being the centre of attention or tells the story of what's been left be- 700IS Reindeerland 06/02/14 - 08/02/14 Experimental Art festival in 3 venues www.700.is

Nordic House Ásdís Sif Gunnarsdóttir “Surrounded by the purest blue” by [email protected] Poster Video installation

Performance on the 07/02/14 from 20:00 - 22:00

Free entrance Sturlugata 5, 101 Reykjavík, tel. 5517030, [email protected], www.nordichouse.is

Video artist / group of the month Two artists are exhibiting in starts at the National Gallery of Reykjavik City Hall from 6th of Iceland, opening on the 6th of February. February and runs till autumn Sigrún Harðardóttir with “Gaia in “Gaia in streaming” 2014. Streaming”, “Gaia in Action” & Sigga Björg Sigurðardóttir is the Dodda Maggý with “Minerva” first artist exhibiting with “The story of Creation”

“The story of Creation” “Minerva”

700IS Hreindýraland

Facebook www.facebook.com/700isReindeerland The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2014 Games 26

Make sure it’s Elding! Six-Letter Love Affair How Skrafl scrabbled its way into Icelandic board game culture

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ELDING WHALE WATCHING from Reykjavik Elding Whale Watching schedule – all year round

EL-01 / EL-02 / EL-03 Jan-Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov-Dec Skari 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 10:00 10:00 10:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 14:00 14:00 14:00 17:00* 17:00 17:00 17:00 17:00* 20:30** 20:30 * From 15 May to 15 September ** From 15 June to 31 July Northern Lights Cruise Daily at 21:00 from 16 October to 14 March Daily at 22:00 from 15 March - 15 April

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Skari HOW DO YOU SAY Words Alex Baumhardt At 20:00 on the first Wednesday of each month, Café Haiti is abuzz with clinking Skrafl DELICIOUS (Scrabble) tiles. Tips of tongues stick out from the corners of mouths, hands waver hesitantly over boards as players see the letter puzzles in their minds come together as IN ICELANDIC? words in front of them. The 20 or so players in their late-teens to their upper sixties are eating cake, drinking coffee and beer and participating in one-on-one matches until the café closes.

At one table, Dean of the Reykjavik Ca- the nouns. In the English language, you est in language and words as an un- thedral Hjálmar Jónsson plays ad man have only two forms—singular and plu- conventional Skrafl opponent. Guðmundur Rúnar Svansson. ral—and if you wish to expand on most “We would go to her house and play Hjálmar starts with the word DÁI words in the game, all you can do is and she would put down some non- (“coma”) and Guðmundur adds ALUR add an ‘s.’” sense word, like something that would to the D, making DALUR (“valley”). “Or make a word within a word,” mean black-sweater-jumper,” Siggi Several moves in and Guðmundur Siggi adds. says. “And she would say, ‘that’s what breaks all taboos of playing a man of “Right. So this is the beauty of Ice- you call someone who wears a black the cloth by laying down the verb SKÍ- landic Scrabble,” Jóhannes continues. sweater and jumps around,’ and you’d TA (“to shit”). “In Icelandic, we have 15 different noun think, well, it could happen.” The two of them are scoring points endings because the article is part of They also credit her with being the higher than I’ve ever seen in the first the word. So you have all of these pos- impetus to founding Skraflfélag Ís- moves of English-language Scrabble, sibilities.” lands. with words longer and more complex than I’m used to seeing so early in the Millions Of Possibilities game. ‘‘That’s what you call Counting only the words that contain 2 someone who wears a COME FIND OUT Fifteen Different Ways To Say to 15 letters, which are the words play- black sweater and jumps Moose able in Scrabble, there are 2,264,383 possible Icelandic words to play. In around’’ “I have a theory about this,” says WE OFFER ICELANDIC English-language Scrabble, there are DELICACIES PREPARED Jóhannes Benediktsson, who co- only 270,163. “I had been playing Scrabble with my IN SOUTH AMERICAN founded Skraflfélag Íslands (the Ice- “Before I got into it [Skrafl], I thought friends and came up with this idea for AND SOUTHERN EURO- PEAN STYLE. landic Scrabble Association) with his Icelandic was very limited because we an association, but they cowered and cousin Sigurður (Siggi) Arent in Febru- don’t have any of the Latin words or the weren’t interested,” Jóhannes jokes, ary 2013. They are the ones organising words from other languages that have “and then I told my grandmother about the monthly meet-ups and the Ice- been adopted that are changing all the it and she told Siggi and then Siggi— landic Skrafl Championship that took time,” Siggi says. “Icelandic dictionar- and Siggi is not a loser—he called me place for the first time in November ies come out very seldom and they’re up and said, ‘we should do it.’” 2013. very strict.” They reached out to Norwegian “The Icelandic language is very Siggi and Jóhannes credit their Scrabble master Taral Guldahl Seier- marrestaurant.is 00354 519 5050 #marrestaurant complicated,” Jóhannes starts. “Take grandmother with sparking their inter- stad, who had helped to build up Nor- 27 Games

This is Solla Eiriksdottir, the winner of Best Gourmet Raw Chef and Best Simple Raw Chef in the 2011 and 2012 “Best of Raw” Awards. Come and try out one of her great dishes at her restaurant Gló.

Reykjavík · Engjateigur 19 and Laugavegur 20b · Hafnarfjörður · Strandgata 34 · www.glo.is

Skari Funky, fresh and full of flavor! way’s Scrabble Association five years ting in a living room for hours or days at You must try it! ago. He gave them ideas for how to a time staring at letter tiles. model their group and helped set up an These are, however, not major life- online version of Icelandic Scrabble by style changes that have plagued the uploading all of the allowed Icelandic champions of Skraflfélag Íslands. words and creating a computer oppo- nent. With a group of trusted nerds, Siggi The Secret To Skrafl and Jóhannes rewrote the rules of the game to greater Icelandic specificity, Back at Hjálmar and Guðmundur’s ta- and started organising a night where ble, points are getting into triple-digits interested players could meet and and I’m throwing some astonished compete. They both went from playing praise at the two players. the game two to four times a month to “Well the guy behind you is the Ice- RUB23 Aðalstræti 2 101 Reykjavík playing it four to five times a week. landic Scrabble champion,” Hjálmar Phone +354 553 5323 [email protected] says, “and he’s my son.” RUB23 Kaupvangsstræti 6 600 Akureyri 132723

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Alphabet Addicts A Reynir Hjálmarsson, who works as a Í Phone +354 462 2223 [email protected] S

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translator, was deemed Iceland’s Skrafl A W B T

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“If this seems like a lot of Scrabble, you champion after the two-day tourna- A P I should watch the film ‘Word Wars,’” ment in November that was overseen P Siggi says. “It follows four players to the by Norwegian master Taral himself. World Scrabble Championship. It’s nice For now, the champion wins a mam- but it’s also quite sad.” moth hard-copy dictionary along with What the film ‘Word Wars’ does a yearlong subscription to the online best is to provide examples of how dictionary Snara. some Scrabble players can literally Reynir is a good sport and an easy- become Scrabbled by the game. By going player. On this particular night he definition, the word Scrabble means, is sipping on a beer and doesn’t mind “to scratch frantically” or “scramble going in and out of the game, both for something.” In a similarly obsessive playing and answering questions. and frenetic way, many of the world’s This comes as no surprise. You’re best players treat the game like a con- more likely to witness emotive displays stant itch. of triumph, loss or ego at a bowling The three-time World Scrabble game than a Skrafl match. No one is Champion Nigel Richards from New fist-pumping a 100-point word, but sly Zealand is a mysterious Bobby-Fish- smiles break and the defeated slouch er-like character who, in interviews, back into their chairs. The calculated claims to live alone, avoid TV, radio and celebration has a lot to do with the books (except the Chambers Diction- game’s greater lesson: success in Sk- ary and the Official Scrabble Words rafl comes from mastering impulses, Dictionary) and says he is “not close to from playing less obvious words that anyone.” are worth more points—in essence, the Some players featured in ‘Word ability to resist becoming scrabbled. Wars’ have either spotty or no jobs and bet money they don’t have on best-of- 25-game matches that leave them sit- The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2014 Travel 28

Eldhestar, more info at 1 Hveragerði Distance from Reykjavík: 44km www.eldhestar.is or call +354 490-4900.

Riding With Fire, Tölting On Ice

Anna Millward

EXPLORING ICELAND, THE FAROE ISLANDS OR GREENLAND

IT´S EASY WITH AIR ICELAND GRÍMSEY ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR VOPNAFJÖRÐUR AKUREYRI GREENLAND

ITTOQQORTOORMIIT EGILSSTAÐIR ILULISSAT ICELAND

NUUK

KULUSUK REYKJAVÍK

NARSARSUAQ

FAROE ISLANDS TÓRSHAVN 29 Travel Issue 2 — 2014 The Reykjavík Grapevine

move for the next five hours. Dear little And A Good Ride Too Margeir, however, eyed up the situa- tion and tiptoed quietly downwards to Luckily Margeir did not attempt to the river’s edge. drown me, and I made it down the Testing the ice with his hoof by mountain to Eldhestar in one very stiff pawing at the river, Margeir proceed- and frozen piece. Upon dismounting ed to put some weight on the ice and Margeir, I was amazed to discover that see what happened; he fell through. my legs had not turned to jelly. Usu- He tried with his other hoof, and the ally, after riding for an hour in England, same thing happened. Now, any Brit- I can’t move and spend the rest of the ish horse that I know would have had day walking bow-legged. Yet six hours some sort of mild seizure by now, and of hard riding and fast tölting, I didn’t be pining desperately for the comfort ache in the slightest. Of course, up un- of their stable-rug and some nice, soft til recently the Icelandic horse was an meadow hay and a dry martini. Mar- important mode of transport, with Ice- geir, however, decided that this was all landers riding for days at a time to get rather dull, thank you very much. Hap- to their destination, so riding had to be py that he wasn’t going to die an ice- reasonably comfortable. So that’s why Anna Millward related death, my noble stallion (well, Icelandic horses don’t need much leg: gelding, actually) proceeded to wade it would be too bloody knackering. In- through the water, quite unabashed stead of prancing around with ribbons Words by the blustery gale and strong under- Anna Millward in their mane, Icelanders rely on their current that was trying desperately to horses being brave, honest and kindly Rule number one when riding an Icelandic horse: do not use your leg. Or at least, do drag him downstream. in nature. Hell, there is even a beer Reaching the other side, we con- named after them, Gæðingur (mean- not use as much leg as you would when riding a horse English-style. Swinging myself tinued to ride on into the mountains. ing “good horse”). onto the saddle on a dark, snowy January morning, I had not imagined that my day rid- Around midday, we stopped for a Icelandic horses clearly occupy an break beside the Ölufsá river. I looked ing through snow-capped mountains and frozen rivers with one of Iceland’s top riding important space in Iceland’s mental at the other horses, heads bowed and and cultural landscape. Icelanders are centres, Eldhestar, would begin with such an abrupt wake-up call. bodies braced against the wind: the proud of their horsey heritage, send- dazzling reds, bright browns and dark- ing unwitting tourists off on riding You see, after spending the majority Iceland is all about rocking the fur- steed as he picked his way up the as-night colours of each horse were tours all around the country and still of my life trotting, dizzily round and lined boiler suit, six pairs of socks and rocky mountain path and stumbled different, a dramatic smattering of enjoying boozey, horse-filled fun at the round an English riding school, I have itchy thermal underwear look. Don- head first into a pile of snow (he was colours against the stark, white land- annual Laufskálarétt (autumn horse it drilled like a rusty nail into my sub- ning my rather fetching man-boots, I distracted by some fuzzy green stuff scape. With such striking appearance, round-up) in September. In fact, Ice- conscious to always, always, without was ready to tackle Iceland’s extreme that looked suspiciously like grass), I it is not difficult to see why the Icelan- landers love their horses so much that fail, ‘use your lower leg!’ So, plonking weather. It had snowed heavily all decided that I rather liked this whole dic horse has captured the Icelandic they actually eat them. I tried to imag- myself down in the saddle, lo’ and be- night, the winter sun was refusing to horse riding in Iceland malarkey, as imagination for centuries. ine nomming on Margeir between two hold: I used my lower leg. Of course show up, and the wind was roaring did Margeir, my fearless horsey com- slices of bread and a garnish of pickle, I should have waited for my guide to at such speeds that I felt the need to panion. “In fact, Icelanders love but couldn’t quite imagine him ever explain that riding in Iceland is some- apologise to my poor horse Margeir Horses have, after all, been impor- their horses so much that standing still enough. what different than riding in England. as he braced himself against the wind, tant in Iceland since the very first days Margeir, like the rest of the horses Instead of hugging the horse’s sides with me sitting on top like a great sack of settlement. The Icelandic horse they actually eat them.” at Eldhestar, was a little fireball. The with your lower legs, Icelanders com- of spuds. today is virtually identical to those word Eldhestar actually means ‘fire’ mit one of British riding’s greatest horses ridden by the heroes gallop- In fact, our guide casually informed or ‘volcano horses,’ and at first I was faux pas: gripping the saddle with the A Fearless Companion ing across the pages of Norse sagas us of Iceland’s supernatural beas- worried that Margeir was going to knees, and having as little lower-leg over 800 years ago. Even the horse’s tie, the terrifying Nykur. According explode or spontaneously combust. contact as possible. Of course I didn’t As we set off, away from the hustle attitude is badass. Take Margeir, for to Iceland folk legend, the Nykur is a As far as I am aware, this does not listen. Instead, I let habit take its natu- and bustle of Reykjavík, I was amazed example. Halting at the top of a steep horse-like lake monster, with ears and usually happen. Or perhaps I was just ral course and, after proceeding to use at how loud the silence was out here bank sloping down to a partially fro- hooves that point inwards. The Nykur lucky. I prefer, however, to think of ‘vol- my lower leg, I found myself lurching in the middle of nowhere; there were zen, fast flowing river, Margeir con- will jump out of the river or lake and cano horses’ as referring to Icelandic forward at a god almighty speed, en- no buildings, no roads, no signs of templated the watery barrier in front drag unwitting riders below the sur- horses’ sparky nature. My noble steed gaging in heated negotiations with my life other than the towering moun- of him. I would like to point out that a face to a watery grave. Of course, I Margeir was a bundle of energy and, sparky four-legged friend and con- tains and snow-covered lava fields. normal British horse would freak out knew that I had nothing to fear with together, he and I had a whale of a templating death-via-nose-dive into The landscape was timeless. As we at the prospect of tackling a half-fro- dear little Margeir, but I couldn’t help time bombing through the snow, tölt- the oncoming snowdrift. rode beneath Ingólfsfjall (the moun- zen river (cue posh British accent): ‘Oh glancing at his ears as I backed away ing across icy lava fields and beneath I should have known that riding in tain named after Ingólfur, Iceland’s goodness, dear rider, you don’t expect slowly from the river’s edge. misty mountains. It was a match made Iceland would be anything but ordi- first settler in the late ninth-century), I me to cross that frightful monstrosity, in heaven, a perfect date; I even got a nary. Forget fancy tweed jackets and felt like a Viking explorer in an Icelan- do you? Absolutely not, I’ll get my tail slobbery kiss at the end. delicate hairnets, dah-ling; riding in dic saga. Glancing down at my noble wet,’ and then stubbornly refuse to

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Words A Nazi’s Helgi Hrafn Guðmundsson In the early hours of May 10, 1940, British forces launched Operation Fork, invading Ice- land. One of their first tasks, upon disembarking in Reykjavík, was to arrest the German Disappointment consul, Dr. Werner Gerlach. He was a fanatical member of the Nazi Party and had tried, under orders from the highest level, to win Icelanders over to the German cause. The Nazi leadership had identified the Icelandic nation as a pure and brave “Aryan nation.” With Iceland Dr. Gerlach became, however, extremely disappointed with Iceland and its inhabitants, which he deemed to be pathetic. “There is nothing left of the noble nation and its pride, but servility, lack of decency, toadying and humiliation,” he writes in his memorandum.

Iceland had been looked upon as a school considered remotely acceptable painters, but there is a lot of pretence Germanic paradise of pure racial stock is the Catholic school. In the others, and junk. Sculpture — Einar Jónsson by the fanatical pseudo-intellectual cir- the children learn only to argue. Lack is half-mad but very Icelandic. Then cles inside the Nazi party in the 1930s. of discipline. The director of educa- there’s Ásmundur Jónsson, who is Heinrich Himmler, head of the SS and tional affairs is a communist. The youth called a cosmopolitan. Clearly Jewish a leading party member, was very in- has no longer any idea of the sagas or degenerate art. A book has been pub- terested in mysticism and idolised the Iceland’s history, no sense of family or lished on him.” Vikings, who he thought were symbolic race.” of the alleged racial superiority of the “Views on Jews — completely uncom- Nordic race. Dr. Bernard Kummel, a “We need to reconsider our position on prehending. An Icelandic student was scholar close to Himmler, wrote a book Iceland completely. We need to have asked by his fellows, when discussing on the “spiritual treasures” of the Ice- scientists do what can be done, but the Jewish matters: “Would you marry landic people and encouraged Ger- other than that, this grovelling, which a Jewish woman?” And he answered: mans to seek these in Iceland. meets no kindness, must stop. Modern “Yes, why not?” Even the director of the Dr. Gerlach’s assignment was to Icelanders do not deserve us, neither national museum will hand an ashtray encourage the mighty Icelanders to for their temperament, nor their signifi- to a negro in a red coat.” join the Nazis in the pursuit of racial cance, with the exception of a few.” purity and domination of inferior peo- “The Icelandic press is more British than ples. Gerlach, who was a respected “Earlier than ten in the morning, there the Times. When the Times confesses British officers examining Gerlach’s office in Reykjavík, on May 11, 1940. A paint- physician and a long-term member of is no possibility of waking anyone, and that the English have been forced to re- ing of Gerlach is seen in the background. the Nazi Party, did not find any of the women not earlier than 12. Men work treat, Vísir publishes the tall tales of the spiritual treasures promised by his irregularly. Unemployment. Men do not United Press about Allied victories. And commanders. Instead he only saw what use their energy for working, but rather then there is the foreign minister’s eng- he describes as a pathetic behaviour of to not go to the dogs. Everything, which lish-minded rag. You cannot point out savage and corrupted degenerates. We for us is unimportant, becomes a goal enough that the Icelandic newspapers know this because his memos on Ice- for them (swimming, table tennis). All are fifth-rate English country rags.” landers have survived and are stored at Germans, that have stayed here long, the National Archives of Iceland. Wer- are not all there, or are apathetic and “Constant inconvenience day and night ner Gerlach was released as a prisoner dumb.” from crazy or drunk men — or both. of war in 1941 in an exchange of Allied All night, eleven o’clock, twelve, two, diplomats. He died in 1963. The Allies “Films are almost exclusively American drunken Icelanders call and demand maintained control over Iceland until spy films of the lowest sort. The theatre to talk with me. Awful alcohol abuse. the end of the Second World War, de- company performs Sherlock Holmes Black death. Spirits. Alcohol and taxis. nying Germany a chance to seize this for a whole month. Here, the dramatic Drunken men out in the street. Smug- “racially” and strategically important subjects from the sagas lie untouched gling.” island west of Europe. in the gutter.” “No car tires to be found. Most cars are Telling Quotes From His “The theatre company performs a Ger- old, purchased from abroad. Fewer visi- Memos: man farce by the Jewish pornographers tors to the swimming pool. No external Arnold and Bach. The police banned stimulation. Men lose all standards. No “It’s nothing short of arrogance, that the play because of its corrupting influ- fruits. We were going to buy a bed, in these 117.000 souls, one third of them ence. Then they stage another premiere Reykjavík there were only two available. degenerate weaklings, should desire in front a full house, where a committee We were going to buy a sink, sinks have to be an independent state. Add to that of experts and members of parliament been unavailable for three weeks.” that the cultural level is as not high as are given access and it’s sold out. The they say.” press goes mad. Overwhelming enthu- “One thing is certain and must be clear- siasm and applause.” ly stated — there is nothing left of the “Icelanders are a great disappointment. noble nation and its pride, but servility, The upbringing of children is pathetic. “Musical life is of a very low standard lack of decency, toadying and humilia- Schools are beyond the pale. The only here. There are one or two quite good tion.”

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P.12 Go Home with a story “If we continue this way, we will one worth telling! day end up in an exhausted world. As a result we will be left naked, won- dering what happened and where we went wrong.”

The anonymous maverick known only as The Naked Handstander bares his goods for a good cause.

P.14

‘Here,’ my companion said, putting a disk of something cold, soft, and whiteish on my plate. ‘Try the sour whale.’ Sampling traditional Þorrablót dishes takes bravery, encouragement, and a strong stomach.

P.46

Counting only the words that contain 2 to 15 letters, which are the words playable in Scrabble, there are 2,264,383 possible Icelandic words to play. In English-language Scrabble, there are only 270,163.

The Icelandic Scrabble Association gives us empirical proof that ‘Skrafl’ is eight times as fun as Scrabble, but can they tell us how many points “empirical” is worth?

P.50

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XXXSFJT Music, Art, Films and Events Listings + Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map

Issue 2 - 2014 www.grapevine.is Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland

Icelandic Women Know How to Rock KÍTON - 'Songbirds in Harpa' Harpa | March 1 to 2 | 3,900 ISK Newly formed KÍTON, which stands for "Konur í Tónlist" or "Women In Music," is taking over Harpa from March 1 to 2. KÍTON's self-proclaimed mission is to promote equality and encourage the up and coming generation of Iceland's female musicians, artists, and performers. The two day festival called "Tónafljóð í Hörpu" or "Songbirds in Harpa," will showcase the best female performers in the Icelandic music scene including a series of panel discussions on March 1, several performances in the open spaces of Harpa, and a grand performance on March 2 from 20:00 by Ragnhildur Gísla, Mammút, Ragnheiður Gröndal, Greta Salóme, Sunna Guðlaugs, and the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra. Join us at Harpa to show your support for the amazingly talented and gifted women of the Icelandic music scene and enjoy some of the best tunes Reykjavík has to offer. BS Photo by Matthew Eisman MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE Feb. 7 - Mar. 6

How to use the listings: Venues are listed alphabetically by day. 8 For complete listings and detailed March information on venues visit www.grapevine.is Send us your listings: [email protected] Friday February 7 Brikk 22:00 DJ Pabbi Café Rosenberg 22:00 Ljótu hálfvitarnir Dillon 22:00 Sailor Jerry Party Harlem 22:00 Danni Deluxe / Weirdcore Kaffibarinn 22:00 DJ Símon Mengi 21:00 Just Another Snake Cult Paloma 22:00 Lady Boy Records DJ Set Saturday February 8 Brikk Guitars Only 22:00 DJ KGB Café Rosenberg Tommy Emmanuel Comes to Reykjavík 22:00 KK-band Dillon 22:00 Godchilla / Sushi Submarine Háskólabíó | Mar. 8, 20:00 | Free! Gamli Gaukurinn 21:00 Leoncie / Hide Your Kids His face may be a little aged, his hair grey but his fingers are Harlem 22:00 Ojba Rasta (DJ Set) / Ultra still the fastest and finest in the world. Once Tommy Emmanuel Mega Technobandið Stefán, steps onto the stage and starts picking his strings, you may have Highlands / Nuke Dukem Harpa to close your eyes to fully absorb the acoustic miracle. There’s 20:00 Ég þrái heimaslóð – Longing a reason he’s considered one of the best guitarists in the world, for my Homeland Hitt Húsið you know, and you should not miss the opportunity to see him 15:00 Four Four live. YN Hressó 22:00 Dalton Photo by Allan Clarke Kaffibarinn 22:00 Alfons X / Katla Paloma 22:00 DJ Pabbi Park 22:00 RVK DNB #4 with GREMLINZ Salurinn 21:00 The Lamb Lies Down on Broadway Sunday February 9 Harpa 20:00 Ég á líf Kaffibarinn 22:00 Kristin Pálsson Monday February 10 Gamli Gaukurinn 22:00 Elgar and Klint 8 Kaffibarinn February 22:00 DJ JB Tuesday February 11 The Lamb Lies Down On Broadway Kaffibarinn 22:00 DJ Viktor Birgis Genesis Tribute Concert KEX Hostel 20:30 KEX Jazz Night Salurinn | Feb. 8, 21:00 | 3,500 ISK Wednesday February 12 To commemorate the 40 year anniversary of progressive- Gamli Gaukurinn 22:00 Morgan Kane rock legend Genesis' album release 'The Lamb Lies Down on Harlem Broadway,' Salurinn will host a tribute concert. The album was 22:00 Sunna Ben KEX Hostel released in 1974 and was Peter Gabriel's final recording. The 20:30 Sónar Warmup album featured hit classics like "Counting Out Time" and "The Paloma 22:00 Bast Magazine / Grotta Zine Lamia," which, among their other great works, made Genesis the Thursday February 13 pillar of the progressive-rock genre. The concert will showcase music from throughout Genesis' long musical career by both Austurbæjarbíó local and international musicians. BS 20:00 Sign Album Release Concert Brikk 22:00 DJ Arnar “beib” Dillon 22:00 Snorri Helgason DJ Night Gamli Gaukurinn 22:00 Blúsbrot Harpa 20:00 Sónar Reykjavík Hressó 22:00 DJ Cyppie & Sax player Kaffibarinn 22:00 DJ Árni Sveinsson Mengi 21:00 Mikael Máni & Anna Reykjavik Museum Friday February 14 of Photography Brikk 22:00 DJ Plan B Dillon Exhibitions all year round 22:00 Skepna Gamli Gaukurinn ADMISSION FREE 22:00 In The Company of Men / Icarus / Logn / Trust the Lies Harlem 22:00 Óli Dóri / Steindór Jónsson & Jón Edvald Hressó 22:00 Kongó Mengi 21:00 Ólafur Björn Ólafsson GRÓFARHÚS 6th Floor Paloma Tryggvagata 15, 101 Reykjavik 22:00 DJ KGB Opening Hours: Mon–Thu 12–19 Fridays 12–18, Weekends 13–17 www.photomuseum.is Saturday February 15 Café Rosenberg 22:00 Elton John Tribute Band 1 Harlem March 22:00 DJ Pabbi / Hypno / Yamaho / Exos / Maggi Legó Harpa 11:30 Children Hour with the Iceland Symphony Orchestra 14:00 Yabba-dabba-doo – film soundtracks performed by the Iceland Symphony Orchestra Hitt Húsið 15:00 Four Four Hressó 22:00 Mr Mookie Kaffibarinn 22:00 DJ KGB Laugardalshöll 21:00 SkyBlu of LMFAO with guests Mengi 21:00 Páll Ívan frá Eiðum A Night of Distortion Paloma Blacklisted & Co Bring the Noise 22:00 DJ Kári Salurinn 20:30 Ragnheiður Gröndal sings Hellirinn TþM | Mar. 1, 19:30 | 1,000 ISK Bergþóra Árnadóttir Sunday February 16 Distorted guitar sound, an intense bass line and a blurred voice – that’s the trademark of the US hardcore band Blacklisted who are Hressó 21:00 Jazz Jam Session performing tonight at Hellirinn. But: This night aims to cover the Kaffibarinn full circle of rock ’n’ roll. That’s why Blacklisted invited five distinct 22:00 DJ Z Icelandic bands to join them, including Kimono and Ofvitarnir that Monday February 17 will satisfy all indie heads, punk poets Grísalappalísa that combine Kaffibarinn grunge with a saxophone and guitar solo, hardcore-punker Klikk 22:00 DJ Pilsner and the devastating Kælan Mikla trio. So come one, come all, and Tuesday February 18 get a plentiful serving of rock, indie and punk. YN Café Rosenberg 22:00 House Jazz Band Kaffibarinn 22:00 DJ Óli Dóri KEX Hostel 20:30 KEX Jazz Night Wednesday February 19 Gamli Gaukurinn 21:00 Fix up Gaukurinn Festival! – Low-Fi Night Kaffibarinn 22:00 John Brainlove Thursday February 20 Brikk 22:00 Intro Beats Café Rosenberg 22:00 Svavar Knútur 22 Gamli Gaukurinn February 21:00 Fix up Gaukurinn Festival! – Hip-Hop / Rap Night Harpa 19:30 Doctor Atomic Gang Related Knife Fights ,AUGAVEGIA 26+  LEBOWSKIBARIS Kaffibarinn 22:00 Árni Kristjáns Alternative New-Wave Cocnert at Dillon Paloma 22:00 Ravenator Dillon | Feb. 22, 22:00 | Free! Friday February 21 And in other news, gang related knife fights are becoming Brikk 22:00 DJ Logi Pedro more and more common in the 101 area. Or at least, that's Dillon the conclusion we've come to after hearing about the concert 22:00 Postartica Gamli Gaukurinn at Dillon on February 22 featuring new wave alternative rock 22:00 Fix up Gaukurinn Festival! – bands Gang Related and Knife Fights. Both bands have been Heavy Metal Night Harlem gaining popularity in the Reykjavík music scene over the past 22:00 FM Belfast DJs / Bypass / few years with the release of Gang Related's debut album 'Stunts Skeng Hressó and Rituals' in the Autumn of 2011 and Knife Fight's 'OK' EP 22:00 Diskólestin released last April. February 22's show is sure to be an amazing Kaffibarinn 22:00 DJ Sexy Lazer performance and we expect to hear only more great things from Mengi these bands in the future — though hopefully not from a police 21:00 Auxpan & Baldur Björnsson Paloma blotter. BS 22:00 DJ Katla Saturday February 22 Monday February 24 Paloma 22:00 DJ Einar Sonic Bar 11 Kaffibarinn 22:00 Icelandic Rock 'n' Roll Cover 22:00 DJ Andri Saturday March 01 Band Dillon Tuesday February 25 Brikk 22:00 Gang Related / Knife Fights 22:00 Rix and Kerr Gamli Gaukurinn Kaffibarinn Café Rosenberg 22:00 Fix up Gaukurinn Festival! – 22:00 Krystal Carma 22:00 KK and Maggi Closing Party KEX Hostel Harpa Harlem 20:30 KEX Jazz Night 17:00 KÍTON: Songbirds in Harpa 22:00 Maggi Legó / Logi Pedro / Hellirinn TÞM Benni B-ruff Wednesday February 26 18:00 Blacklisted / Kimono / Harpa Grísalappalísa / Klikk / Kælan 19:30 Piano and winds at the Cham- Harlem Mikla / Ofvitarnir ber Music Society 22:00 Sin Fang / Hudson Wayne Hitt Húsið Hitt Húsið Kaffibarinn 15:00 Four Four 15:00 Four Four 22:00 DJ Katla Hressó Sunday March 02 22:00 Playmo Thursday February 27 Kaffibarinn Harpa 22:00 FM Belfast / DJ Sexy Lazer Brikk 20:00 KÍTON: Songbirds in Harpa Loft Hostel 22:00 Intro Beats 22:00 Menn Ársins Concert Harlem Tuesday March 04 Mengi 22:00 DJ Pilsner / Fótafimi 21:00 Tiny Guy (Lítill Kall) by Friðgeir Hressó KEX Hostel Einarsson 22:00 DJ Cyppie 20:30 KEX Jazz Night Paloma Kaffibarinn 22:00 RVK Soundsystem 22:00 DJ Alfons X Friday March 07 Paloma Sunday February 23 22:00 Silja Glømmi Brikk Stúdentakjallarinn 22:00 DJ Plan B Harpa 21:00 Jazz Night KEX Hostel 16:00 Young Voices – Ingibjörg Fríða 20:30 Reykjavík Folk Festival Helgadóttir Friday February 28 19:30 The Chamber Music Society Saturday March 08 Hressó Brikk 21:00 Jazz Jam Session 22:00 DJ KGB Háskólabíó Kaffibarinn Harlem 20:00 Tommy Emmanuel 22:00 Kristinn Pálsson 22:00 Baarregaard / Dj Katla Hitt Húsið Mengi Hressó 15:00 Four Four 21:00 Tiny Guy (Lítill Kall) by Friðgeir 22:00 Tandoori Johnson KEX Hostel Einarsson Mengi 20:30 Reykjavík Folk Festival 21:00 Kristín Þóra Haraldsdóttir ART Hverfisgata 4 101 Reykjavík OPENINGS AND ONGOING Iceland t +354 537 4007 Feb. 7 - Mar. 13 f +354 537 4008 [email protected] How to use the listings: Venues www.hverfisgalleri.is are listed alphabetically by day. 20 February - 29 March 2014 For complete listings and detailed information on venues visit www. grapevine.is Send us your listings: Kristinn E. Hrafnsson [email protected] Opening

ASÍ Art Gallery A Hard Day’s Night The second exhibition of a sequence called Interplay, A Hard Day's Night will feature pieces by prominent Icelandic artists and musicians, Svavar Guðnason, Magnús Helgason, Úlfur Karlsson, and Úlfur Eldjárn. The con- nection between these four differ- ent artists is their powerful voice of imagination. Free admission. Opens February 15 Runs until March 9 Bió Paradís German Film Days 2014 Trip The Light Fantastic In cooperation with the Goethe Institute in Demark, Bió Paradís will host the The Winter Lights Festival Arrives In Reykjavík fourth annual German Film Days, be- ginning with a screening of the drama All Over Reykjavík | Feb. 6 to 15 | Free! and thriller ‘Two Lives’ (2012) directed by Georg Maas and Judith Kaufmann To those of you that have been living under a rock the past few which has won several international days, get your head out from under your pillow and see the awards. All screenings will include English subtitles. light! The Winter Lights Festival has arrived in Reykjavík, with Opens March 13 light installations by international and local artists illuminating Runs until March 22 public spaces all over Reykjavík. The Festival, which is Borgarleikhúsið sponsored by the Scandinavian art and culture fund Kultur Trilogy Dance Performance Kontakt Nord, includes a variety of events such as Museum The Iceland Dance Company’s new show, Trilogy, showcases three short Night on February 7 which sees a total of 40 museums in the performances influenced by classi- greater Reykjavík area stay open until midnight for free, and cal ballet, contemporary dance and Pool Night on February 15, when three of Reykjavík's pools will breakdance. Admission: 4,500 ISK. also remain open to midnight for free and feature water light Shown on February 8, 16, 23, March 3 and 9 displays. BS Eiðissker Photo by Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson Slab City made up of Eirún Sigurðardóttir, Jóní TURNING POINTS Friðrik Örn’s photography exhibition Jónsdóttir and Sigrún Hrólfsdóttir, is depicts the unique life in Slab City, a one of the more experienced perfor- Ongoing community without organised govern- mance teams in Iceland. It presents an ment, running water, or sewage dis- interactive show that emphasises the Árbær Museum posal. The community has attracted A guided tour in English through this importance of sensual experience and residents from all paths of life in open air museum, which consists of emotional expression. search of freedom from the traditional twenty buildings happens daily at Opens February 20 structure of modern society. 13:00. Admission 1,100 ISK. Runs until February 28 Opens February 7 On permanent view Reykjavík Art Gallery Runs until February 28 7 Months Until August ASÍ Art Gallery Hverfisgallerí Ingileif Thorlacius - Retrospect Georg Óskar Giannakoudaki’s new Kristinn E. Hrafnsson Ingileif Thorlacius studied at the Icelan- painting exhibition will be on display An exhibition of Kristinn E. Hrafnsson’s dic School of Arts and Crafts and the at the Reykjavík Art Gallery. This will artwork, a mixture of sculptures and Jan van Eyck Academy in Maastricht, be Georg’s seventh solo exhibition and photographs, will be on display. Netherland. Her works cover a range of his first one in Reykjavík. He lives and Opens February 20 different mediums; oil paintings, water- works in Akureyri. Runs until March 29 colors, drawings and sculptures. Opens February 8 i8 Gallery Runs Until February 9 Runs until March 13 This two person show will combine art The Einar Jónsson Museum Reykjavík Art Museum - installations by Icelandic artist Ingólfur The museum contains close to 300 Kjarvalsstaðir Arnarsson, a variety of his drawing artworks including a beautiful garden Harro and concrete reliefs, and a site-spe- with 26 bronze casts of the artist's The exhibition will display Finish artist cific sound installation by Japanese sculptures. Harro’s pop-art period, and present musician Sachiko M, who is also On permanent view several of his best known works from performing at the Sónar music festival. 1968 to 1972. Harro’s art is particularly Gallery Tukt Opens February 13 Regnskógar & Furðuhlutir relevant to current affairs in Icelandic Runs until March 22 Kristel Dögg Vilhjálmsdóttir’s new exhibi- society because of the ongoing recov- Kunstschlager tion at Gallery Tukt, ‘Regnskógar & ery from the financial collapse. Island of Anxiety Furðuhlutir’ (“Rain forests and Bizarre Opens February 8 Sabine Schlatter’s new exhibition will Things”), feature oil and acrylic paint- Runs until May 18 display large drawings and pieces ings. Hildur Ásgeirsdóttir Jónsson: Core reminiscent of organic structures. Her Runs until February 15 The exhibition features a collection of works portray hybrids between living large-scale woven paintings made on Hverfisgallerí and lifeless matter. Sabine was born Exhibition by Tumi Magnússon a three metre wide loom. The impres- in Switzerland in 1977 where she now Mixed media artist Tumi Magnússon sive pieces were created on hand- lives and works. will display paintings and video that is dyed woven silk thread. Opens February 8 inspired by phones and phone calls. Opens February 8 Runs until February 22 Runs until February 22 Runs until May 18 Listamenn Gallerí The Icelandic Phallological Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Reykjanesbrautin All you need Children at Play Museum Einar Falur Ingvarsson’s new photogra- The museum contains a collection of in oneA4 place bréfsefni. PMS 412. An exhibition of sculptures from the phy exhibition exposes the overlooked more than two hundred and fifteen oeuvre of Sigurjón Ólafsson. The Reykjanes highway which virtually all penises and penile parts belonging to title of the exhibition refers both to visitors to the country pass through almost all the land and sea mammals Sigurjón’s 1938 relief by that name without ever really taking the time to that can be found in Iceland. and other works in the exhibition that get to know and experience. On permanent view might awaken children and teen’s Opens February 8 interest in Sigurjón’s art. Kling & Bang Runs until February 22 Ragnar Kjartansson – The Visitors Opens February 7 Læknaminjasafn Nesstofa A nine-channel video installation depict- Runs until May 11 Fifteen students from the School of ing the bohemian gathering of a group SÍM Photography are hosting a graduation of friends and musicians in Upstate Internal Darkness ™H`‹aVkŽg
jhi†\jg&. exhibition. It promises to be as varied New York. The piece takes its title from The photography exhibition ‘Internal  iZa#/ (*)**'&-.% as the students themselves, covering ABBA’s last album, which was marked Darkness’ explores the mysterious topics such as what a day in the life is by divorce and defeat. The performing ways darkness influences the human ONLY ™GVY^hhdc7aj!=‹iZaH6<6 for a blind person or someone living musicians and poets are almost entirely mind. The exhibition displays works by SWEATER  iZa#/ (*)*+'),-- on the fringe of society. drawn from the Reykjavik music scene. a number of artists whose interpreta- SELECTION, Opens February 15 Runs until February 23 tion and portrayal of darkness varies NO KNITING ™AVj\VkZ\jg*(W Runs until February 23 drastically. MATERIAL  iZa#/ (*)*+'&-.% The National Gallery Opens February 7 Think Less - Feel More Runs until February 24 www.handknit.is The Icelandic Love Corporation which is Living Art Musuem IN YOUR POCKET WHAT'S INSIDE Reykjavík Map Happy Hour Guide Places We Like Best Of Reykjavík Practical Info

Reykjavík February 7 - March 13 Keep it in your pocket Five Weeks The Grapevine picks the events, places and what to experience in the next five weeks SOUVENIR SHOP Art Without Boundaries German Film Festival 25 - 13 13 - 22 SHOP OF THE YEAR 2012 Jan April Foundation March Mehr Deutsch bitte!

Take a Seat at the German Cinethek Bíó Paradís

And the Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film goes to … the German drama and Katrín Sigurðardóttir - Foundation thriller 'Two Lives!' Or that’s probably what Reykjavík Art Museum - Hafnarhús | 1,300 ISK Directors Georg Maas and Judith Kaufmann At Katrín Sigurðardóttir's exhibition in dreamt they would hear, but it was not so. Hafnarhús the world of art breaks out into Which is a shame because it’s one of the the streets of Reykjavík. Katrín's exhibition best films the German cinema scene has was Iceland's contribution to the Venice produced lately and it is one of many to be Biennale in 2013. 'Foundation' is a giant screened at the German Film Days in Bíó raised ornamental surface which visitors are Paradís. YN encouraged to walk on top of. The platform Sign's Best Concert Yet? is decorated with handmade tiles forming 13 'Hermd' Has Finally intricate baroque-style patterns and extends February beyond the walls of the museum, making Arrived the exhibition the point of collision, where the life of the museum and the life of the city intersect. BS

Runs until February 23 ONCE AGAIN, I FALL INTO MY FAMILIAR WAYS If you haven't been to Ragnar Kjartansson's The Visitors, then you are in for a treat. It's one fifty minute long song performed in the Rockeby man- sion, recorded and projected in nine distinct parts. It's amazing, and it's free at Kling & Bang. So don't be daft, head on over before it closes.

Feb 26 to March 1 AN ANNIVERSARY TO REMEMBER Sign Album Release Concert Celebrating beer's 25th anniversary of being Austurbæjarbíó | 20:00 | 2,900 ISK legal in Iceland, KEX Hostel are putting on Ragnar Zolberg and the rest of Sign come a four day beer tasting event. American out of the woodworks to give us a kick ass and Danish beer are in the spotlight on concert and celebrate the release of their Wednesday, there is a beer conference on new album 'Hermd.' We'd been waiting Thursday, Ölgerðin and Borg Brugghús for the album for three years before it present their beers on Friday and Icelan- finally came out right after Christmas. The

dic craft breweries take centre stage on concert is going to be amazing with up to Ísafjördur Saturday. ten performers from the album packed on The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík stage. As if that's not enough to get us all Akureyri Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Feb 19 to 22 LET'S PATCH 'ER UP In order to psyched, Ragnar promises that "this concert Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri finance redecorating the bar, expanding will undoubtedly be the finest and most Adalstræti 27 · Ísafjördur Reykjavík the stage and upgrading their equipment, remarkable of any we will ever perform." So rock out to Sign at Austurbæjarbíó while e:info@the viking Gamli Gaukurinn is putting on a festival. www.theviking.is TAX FREE It won't be free, but you should still show the rest of us continue to bang our heads your face as it promises to be heaps of fun against walls in desperation as we wait and will lead to a better music venue. for Ragnar’s other amazing band, Pain of Salvation, to come to Iceland. BS H

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Aðalsræti 10. Ð MAP SLÓ KLETTAGARÐAR MAP KI FIS Places We Like A Cruise ÐUR harbour GAR DA Food AN GR 1 1 The Coocoo's Nest K Maritime LE Grandagarður 23 Sigurjón TTA Museum GA Nestled in an old fishing hut in the flourish- Art RÐ AR ing area of Grandi is a new Californian deli The Museum with an Italian twist. What is a Californian Old We are open every day. V Harbou EST B T U deli? You’ll have to pay them a visit to find US r RG AR www.kraum.is ÐA out. The owners, Íris and Lucas, have put ÁNANA R much thought and work into every square M Old ÝR A R inch of the place, creating a cosy and warm G A Harbour atmosphere. If you are in that part of town, TA NÝ Area LE ND SÆB head over to get your brunch or lunch fill of UG RAU ATA T the day. KLE HO R PP SVE I SVEGU GU D L R AN 2 T MNE R Krua Thai S FRA SG G Ð A RÁ EI T NARG VE A STURG SUN Tryggvagata 14 ÍGUR AT G C T A AT EIRS Harpa DA GR S A GA B BÁ T ORG A AR RU A Concert For quick, tastyN and well-priced Thai food, GA 2 D RG TA A O Hall VE B A Reykjavík stop by this family run restaurant for reliably KI G AT HRIN RA ÖL RK KLEP U Ð D G Art good and invigoratingR meals. Their cute U J Æ GA US PS TA Museum A V I G N E harbour-adjacentND location is both intimate BR TI DU GU A BR ÆGIS TR R R GR Main YG RÆ Down LA A andÁ communal at once. Stay and AUenjoy the Tourist GV ST A Central T G A Info AT vibe or take your food to go, it will be deli- Ð S HÁ A Bank T ÓL Town S U Ö VA AR L cious either way. VA VH A LL G ÓLS LA R L A HA B ÁS L GA I FN G GA L A T AR S S UG STR TA K Æ A VA G T TÚNGATA ÆTI ÚL V A A B A D A T RÆ AG RA L 3 Lebowski Bar LL A Culture ÆK TN D A AT U IR A ST US B T AG L GA L E 8 TU A U EL A RSTR 13 House R A AV T A R LaugavegurAR 20a A Ð Austur- ÆT Ð T A I A EIS D R M völlur . KI H National R RK ST 4 VE A classic American style diner lies at the back JU BAN R R LIND U S FISG U G TR Theatre AR E ÚS K R Æ AS G BRÚNAVEGU of the pin-up clad bar on Laugavegur, boast- TI T AT GA V GAVEGUR RÆ A TÍ TA S SUNDLAU Icelandic TH TI E S TA N 6 RS SÆ ing a short menuUR of quick and tasty bowling SÓL Parliament Ó R EG P A V VA MT PA B LS LLA VO MA N GA R alley JburgersÓ named for The Dude (or His GA N ARGA N TÚ U AU K ARST N AP GUR AS TA KJ SST Í SÆ LA PL . 7 11 T T ADudeness or El Duderino if you’re not into the RÆ KL N K T LÆ Taxi TI I I Æ R NTEIGUR Laugardals TA HRAU whole brevity thing). It’s a great place to chow B R ÆT TNSS U A A ÓK BRÚ HR H T 9 IG AT L.S S TR 12 VA E RE A TÚN Swimming UR down with a beer, but that could just be, like, RG T. S AR AG I BORG T YN N U TS S AT AT TI LL G L LA S E Ð City U Uptown ÍS

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IR Í huge French windows, funk music in the U L TÍ G A K LT E GA E ÚL A A E TT AT Ú LU U K A J O M ÍK I GA HOF S Ð LA RS NS R K GA TA AT HJ H R F background - Nora Magasin has allR the PI I TE D A A TA ME FR Ó IGU YK ES Ð Hlemmur Ö N R D GU N R NG LH Ó LO F Í UR H U RE makings of a classy place. The food is entirely N T S AG Þ G LA K S National Ó Bus Terminal TÍ I R RU A A T TA home-made and designed by an imaginative U RS T S M S L G ST IÐ LA Gallery S AU Taxi T UG GA VI ÚN EF ÍG R AT HÓ

ME T L team that's always adding fun novelties to the ÓN EI S F U of Iceland TA U GUR VE SK R U GU R UR OTHÚ R NJ AB R SV A Laugardalur NE EG Á menu. The bar is SHAGan ideal night-starter, with FU EL UR LS A GA BA RR H I M AT TA O ÁTÚ a fine selection of wines, beer, and delicious KI B N N SG ER S R GÞ ARBR SIG Hallgríms R T BI LDUR ÓR ÚN appetizers. The deep-fried chicken with National U ÚN Ý BA kirkja GAT A ÁT M H house sauce and the peanut butter brownie library C L U D Church AU L YN KV SÓLE G G A A BRAUTARHOLT A G JU are a must-try. The best thingWe aboutst Nora is T AT UR VE V A N EGU I G G I ST AG RG UR R

A R YJ AG Ð FR definitely that it remains a homy atmosphere, R K H BR A A AG NJ EY The Einar RSTÍ RG always making you feel welcome.Side J I National UG Jónsson RÁ A A TA AT 5 museum Museum Ð Yummi Yummi A Sundhöllin U F SK ENGJAVEGUR JÖLNIS RA R Swimming I S GI U PHOL U Hlemmur, Hverfisgata 123HA G TÍG ENGJATEIGUR NNU B Pool VE FORN ER VEGU ÓNSS T GU G R E N R After long years of lamenting the lack of S EI BA GI T R Ú ÆGISÍ H A A R LS JA ÍK H Hljómskáli Ð AT S Zoo and quick, greasy and satisfying Asian fast-food AT G K I R AR S Ó IP R I GA A HO G N N HA Ð University RG Park S TA LT Ð A G T family park in town, the owners of Thai super-restaurantHA B T T A R DA RÆ A L N RA LA LA B H of Iceland N AU Ban Thai have graced usA with this pan-fried U U T T DU U Laugardalshöll SK I R GI T FÁ BR M AU M S I saviour! The dishes are super cheap at 1000 PA Æ VE RA Ú Sports hall S BR L G GUR SUND S H I E ISK each, the service is super fast but totally U OR ÁTEI V R GS I LTA SN V L EG HO EFST fresh and what seems like a small dish will UR Ú M G stuff you full. They now do home delivery as GUNNAR L A Á A TÓ S H R L S NGHO U TU Nordic House U ÁRMÚLI N well! Oh, happy day.MA R G F L LÓK D UA AG SARHAG GA VA AT T Culture Center TN A LT A SM RSTÍ E Drinking ÝR N S FÁ AR Á GJ V L VE R EGUR K GU AV AGA R GA A 7 ML Ð 6 Kaffitár I TA Den Danske Kro 8 Micro Bar 9 Kaffibarinn A HR EG A IN Kjarvalsstaðir UR TA AU T GB Taxi RA R IngólfsstrætiA 3 A UT National AT AusturstrætiARGA 6 BergstaBSðastrætiÍ 1 Bankastræti 8 AG Ð G Ð Í A R Museum AR A Coach SU HL T Kaffitár on Bankastræti is a comfortable little This Danish-themedDD bar is located on In- Micro Bar sitsNJ snuggled up behind the lobby A popular café on weekdays, on weekends Ð O Terminal ÚT AU U H KA LÍ R R gólfsstræti, just off Laugavegur. They serve Ð K L café with a great selection of coffee, tea and of City Center Hotel and offers Reykjavík’s Kaffibarinn turns into a ticket for a wild night B A A Ð T N baked goods on offer. Since Kaffitár is also a upEGGE Danish favourites such as Tuborg beer best selection of microbrew beers, served by out, as the space fills up with late-night souls LÍ S AR D RT H R SB Klambratún A Ý L SG Á RA big-name Icelandic roasterie, YtheN caffeinated and AkvavitAT schnapps and proudly promote knowledgeable and polite staff. This is one of oozing energy in every corner. With DJs play- RMÚL G A NG H Park UM UT AG B L the Danish tradition of daytime drinking. Their ÓL AR beverages on the menu are quality.I A classic the few bars in Reykjavík where you can have ing and the occasional rock band, the party LA ST G A SÍ I M Ð N A I H M RHL Ð R ‘Happy Hour,’ every day between 16–19, is a I Í R Á spot for caffeine and laptop addicts and a conversation with your mates without hav- usually lasts until early morning, yet often HRINGBRAUT KL Ð RI U A AB K A MÚ FHEI R Ý LE S AU IM T great source of fun. How to ask for a large T ÁL freelancers, but get there earlyAR because it ing to shout over live bands or loud music. manages to leave you begging for more. I L H AM T AG I I HE SK S Ð I FT beer in Danish: “Hej, jeg vil gerne ha’ en stor." AF BR R fills up in no time. TAH L A LÍÐ Á AU GO

N IM T E AU H SA L TH Ð Ó Useful numbers Hafnarstræti 20, tel: 540 1313 16:00, Sun. closed. The shopping centres F S Public transport E ÓL A SKIH HLÍ M SK A BARMAH Kringlan and Smáralind as Swell as most The Icelandic Travel Market, Bankastræti 2, B Ý J Emergency number: 112 V Ú Ó R L K The only public transport available in Reykjavík EG ST G Í LÍÐ I tel: 522 4979 supermarkets and tourist shops have longer Ð A EY A Medical help: 1770 U R R is the bus. Most buses run every 20–30 minutes Ð opening hours. R H MI Trip, Laugavegur 54, tel: 433 8747 A L KL VEGU Í AB Dental emergency: 575 0505 Ð MÁ R (the wait may be longer on weekends) and the VAH AUT Pharmacies Swimming pools: Weekdays 06:30–22:00 and LÍÐ L Information: 118 price per fare is 350 ISK for adults and children. R ST J Þ weekends 09:00–17:00, although each pool IGAHLÍ ÓSHEIM OR Lyf og heilsa, Egilsgata 3, tel: 563 1020 RA Multiple day passes are available for purchase at Ð Taxi: Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir: 588 5522 GA Ð varies plus or minus a few hours. DR Í TA ÁP Lyfja, Laugavegur 16, tel: 552 4045 and Lág- select locations. Complete route map available GN A U HL HLÍ R BSR: 561 0000 Reykjavík Banks in the centre are open Mon.-Fri. 09:00- Ð O múla 5, tel: 533-2300 at: www.bus.is. Tel: 540 2700. Buses run from KA Ð K A 16:00. RV Tax Free Refund Domestic A SK Coach terminal 07:00–24:00 on weekdays and 10:00–24:00 on T O B GR UR LÖ S ÆN E G Post Offices NDU IF UR Iceland Refund, Aðalstræti 2, tel: 564 6400 Airport Taxi H AH AN BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, weekends. Main terminals are: Hlemmur and LÍÐ LÍÐ SVEG Tourist information Lækjartorg Post offices are located around the city. The Á tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is GUR MI RVE KLA downtown post office is at Pósthússtræti 3–5, LLA BRAU Opening Hours VA FELL RENS Arctic Adventures, Laugavegur 11, Domestic airlines UG T SMÚL open Mon.–Fri. 09:00–18:00. Stamps are also FL G tel: 562 7000 I Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, Bars and clubs: According to regulations, bars sold at bookstores, gas stations, tourist shops can stay open until 01:00 on weekdays and City Centre, Aðalstræti 2, tel: 590 1550 and some grocery stores. HAMR Kringlan tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is AH 04:30 on weekends. LÍÐ Shopping Iceland Excursions – Grayline Iceland, Eagle Air, Hótel Loftleiðir, tel: 562-4200

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University of Reykjavík

Nauthólsvík 6 7 8 9 Venue Finder New In Town Music & Entertainment Amsterdam Glaumbar Hafnarstræti 5 | D3 Tryggvagata 20 | D3 Austur Harlem Austurstræti 7 | E3 Tryggvagata 22 | D3 B5 Hressó Bankastræti 5 | E4 Austurstræti 20 | E4 Bar 11 Kaffibarinn Hverfisgötu 18 | E5 Bergstraðastræti 1 | E5 Bíó Paradís Kaldi Bar / Café Hverfisgata 54 | F6 Laugavegur 20b | E5 Bjarni Fel Kofinn Austurstræti 20 | E4 Laugavegur 2 | E5 Boston Loft Hostel Laugavegur 28b | F6 Bankastræti 7 | E5 13 Brikk Brikk Mánabar Hafnarstræti 18 Hafnarstræti 18 | D4 Hverfisgata 20 | E5 Bunk Ölsmiðjan Out of the ashes that was the much Laugavegur 28 | E5 Lækjargata 10 | E4 celebrated Faktorý has risen the hip Brikk, Celtic Cross Ölstofan and it is on a mission to get cityfolk to feel Hverfisgata 26 | E5 Vegamótastígur | E5 optimistic towards the live music scene. Sat Den Danske Kro Prikið right where Kaffi Zimsen used to be, Brikk Ingólfsstræti 3 | E4 Bankastræti | E4 currently only has DJs and a house jazz band Dillon Reykjavík Beats playing, but they have big plans to expand Laugavegur 30 | F6 Hverfisgata 46 | E5 the stage and get more live performers. Head Dolly Rósenberg on over and give them a chance. Hafnarstræti 4 | D3 Klapparstígur 25 | E5 Dubliner Stofan Café Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D3 Aðalstræti 7 | D3 English Pub Thorvaldsen Austurstræti 12 | E3 Austurstræti 8 | D3

S Gamli Gaukurinn Vegamót K SÆ ÚL B AG RA Tryggvagata 22 | D3 Vegamótastígur 4 | E6 AT U A T Museums & Galleries LIND ART67 The Nordic House AR Laugavegur 67 | F7 Sturlugata 5 GA TA Mon-Fri 12-18 / Sat Tue–Sun 12–17 12-16 www.nordice.is N TÚ GUR Í SÆ Aurora Reykjavík Reykjavík Art Gallery T Grandagarður 2 | B2 Skúlagata 30 | E7 TNSS Mon - Sun 10-22 Tuesday through Sunday VA ARTÚN Uptown BORG www.aurorareykjavik.is 14–18 AV www.artmuseum.is E Ásgrimur Jónsson GUR Museum Reykjavík Art The Bergstaðastræti 74 Museum - Mon-Fri through Sept. 1 Hafnarhús UR Tower Tryggvagata 17 | D3 G The Einar Jónsson N TÍ S Ú Open 10-17 GR S N Museum A E KÚL TT AT Ú K I AGA Thursday 10 - 20 S Ð K GA TA AT Eiriksgata | G6 TA R F A Ó Hlemmur Ö Kjarvalsstaðir R GU N H Tue–Sun 14–17 F Í UR T G Flókagata 24 S Bus Terminal TÍ www.skulptur.is A T S M T IÐ Open 10 - 17 S AU Taxi 5 T VI ÚN R Gallerí Ófeigur ÓN Ásmundarsafn NJ R AB Skólavörðustígur 5 | E5 ÁLS Sigtún GA BA RR H T O Á Open 10 - 17 A N TÚ Hafnarborg BER N G S F Hallgríms ÞÓR Strandgata 34, Haf- www.listasafnreykja- U GAT vikur.is kirkja A narfjörður Church LAU www.hafnarborg.is BRAUTARHOLT GA Reykjavík City Library UR VE G G UR Hannesarholt Tryggvagata 15 | D3 www.borgarbokasafn.is Einar RSTÍ Grundarstígur 10 | E5 son RÁ www.hannesarholt.is A Reykjavík City Museum Ð Sundhöllin U Museum - SK Hitt Húsið

RA UR Swimming I Gallery Tukt Árbæjarsafn ÍG PHOL T Pool Pósthússtræti 3-5 | E4 Kistuhylur 4 RÓNSS T E N Open daily 10-17 EI BA GI www.hitthusid.is R Ú ÍK LS AT S Settlement Exhibition G K S Ó IP Hverfisgallerí GA A G TA N Reykjavík 871+/-2 T T Hverfisgata 4 | E4 A Aðalstræti 17 | E3 AU T www.hverfisgalleri.is BR Open daily 10–17 AU RA i8 Gallery G BR Reykjavík Maritime S H OR ÁTEI Tryggvagata 16 | D3 GSV Museum SN EGU Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat R Grandagarður 8 | B2 13–17 and by appoint- GUNNAR www.maritime-vv R ment. www.i8.is U museum.is G FLÓK AG The Icelandic Phal- ATA Reykjavík Museum of RSTÍ lological Museum Photography Laugavegur 116 | F8 Shopping 11 Fjallakofinn 12 Hrím Tryggvagata 16 | D3 www.phallus.is Laugavegur 11 Laugavegur 89 Weekdays 12–19 / Sat– 10 Farmers Market Kirsuberjatréð Sun 13–17 Vesturgata 4 | C2 If outdoor sporting is your bag, then Unlike other design shops in town, this www.ljosmyndasafn- Grandi, Hólmaslóð 2 www.kirs.is reykjavikur.is Fjallakofinn is your kind of place, baby. This one goes beyond the local borders to bring This design company and fashion line holds shop full of experts will set you up with all some of the most innovative and stylish Kling & Bang Saga Museum Hverfisgata 42 | E6 the integral values of sustainability, longevity, your climbing, hiking, camping, skiing and Perlan, open daily 10-18 creations from designers around the world. Thurs–Sun from 14–18 www.sagamuseum.is originality and environmentalism. Their general good-times-in-nature needs. They are also the official sales point of Lo- www.this.is/klingogbang modern take on the traditional Icelandic mography in Iceland, so get yourself a Diana Sigurjón Ólafsson Knitting Iceland Museum lopapeysa has struck chords worldwide. camera and start snapping. Laugavegur 25 | E6 Laugarnestangi 70 These are must-have items for locals and www.knittingiceland.is www.lso.is visitors alike. Kunstschlager SÍM Rauðarárstígur 1 | G8 The National and University Library, Hafnarstræti 16 | D4 Public phones Public Toilets Mon-Sat from 15-18 Mon-Fri 10-16 Arngrímsgata 3 www.kunstschlager.com There aren’t many public payphones in the Public toilets in the centre can be found www.sim.is Tourist Information Centre, Aðalstræti 2 city centre. The tourist information centre inside the green poster covered tow- Living Art Museum Spark Design Space at Aðalstræti 2, City Hall, Kolaportið, Icelandic Travel Market, Bankastræti 2 ers located, for example, at Hlemmur, Skúlagata 28 | E7 Klapparstígur 33 | E5 entrance at Landsbankinn and in Lækjar- Reykjavík Backpackers, Laugavegur 28 Ingólfstortorg, by Hallgrímskirkja, by Tue-Sun 12-17 Mon-Fri 10-18 www.nylo.is Sat 12-16 gata. Prepaid international phone cards Swimming Pools Reykjavík Art Museum, Lækjargata and by www.sparkdesign- Eymundsson on Skólavörðustígur. Toilets Mokka Kaffi are recommended for int’l callers. There are several swimming pools in space.com can also be found inside the Reykjavík Skólavörðustígur 3A | E5 Internet Access Reykjavík. The one in 101 Reykjavík, www.mokka.is City Hall and the Reykjavík Library. Wind & Weather Most cafés offer free wireless internet Sundhöll Reykjavíkur, is an indoor one, The National Gallery Gallery access. Computers with internet connec- located at Barónsstígur. That pool features of Iceland Hverfisgata 37 | E6 tions are available to use at: a nice sunbathing area and some outdoor Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | F4 Open daily 09-02 www.windandweather.is Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Tjarnargata 11 hot tubs. Opening hours: Monday to Tue–Sun 11–17 Thursday from 06:30–22:00, Friday from www.listasafn.is ÞOKA Ground Zero, Frakkastígur 8, near 06:30–20:00, Saturday from 08:00–16:00, The National Museum Laugavegur 25 | E5 Laugavegur 45 www.thoka.is and Sunday from 10:00–18:00. Suðurgata 41 | G2 The Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata 15 Open daily 10–17 F www.natmus.is

E Best Of Reykjavík Every year around the beginning of July, we make a BEST OF REYKJAVÍK ISSUE celebrating some of what makes Reykjavík-life worthwhile, posting some good entries into a hopefully neverending discussion. The primary purpose of BEST OF REYKJAVÍK is celebration! It’s about big-upping stuff, giving mad props to it and patting it on the shoulder. The following are some nice tips we pulled from BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2013 which you can read in full at www.grapevine.is

BEST BAKERY: BEST PLACE TO GO TO A BEST SECOND-HAND SHOP: SANDHOLT MOVIE: BÍÓ PARADÍS RED CROSS

For the third time Sandholt wins this Bíó Paradís is hands down the best place We had some arguments about what category, which should not really come as to go to a movie. This art house theatre exactly counted as a “second-hand” shop, a surprise. It is a little bit more expensive always seems to have something excit- but it ultimately came down to a vintage than the big bakery chains, but you’ll be ing going on with regular festivals all year store with no curating--as in, no hand- hard pressed to get better value for your round. During the summer they have a picked collections or price mark-ups for money. They offer all sorts of pastries, series called ‘Cool Cuts,’ featuring six various styles or labels. We ultimately chocolates, cakes, breads, and sandwich- Icelandic films show with English subtitles. boiled this down to the Red Cross stores es that the other bakeries in town don't Last summer they showed ‘White Night on Laugavegur – one near Hlemmur and and - as our resident Frenchie notes - they Wedding,’ Sigur Rós’ ‘Heima,’ ‘Children of the other more centrally located – for their use real butter in their pastries. “This is the Nature,’ ‘Either Way,’ ‘Backyard,’ and ‘Nói treasure trove-like atmospheres. Here you only bakery in town that is consistently on the Albino.’ The theatre also has a huge can get the best of a second-hand shop- point with their baked goods,” our former room with tables where you can drink ping experience, sifting and sorting and food critic says. “Their products also stand coffee or beer and play games or catch the finally finding that dream item you never out and have a richer flavour than anything occasional concert. even knew you needed. Plus, they are real- else I've tried.” ly damn cheap so it’s a total win-win.

Located at Laugavegur 36 Located at Hverfisgata 54 Located at Laugavegur 12

Hótel Natura Every day from 16:00 to 18:00. A GUIDE 50 percent off all drinks, Beer 475 ISK, Wine 625 ISK. THAT FUCKS Hótel Plaza Bar Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer 500 ISK. YOU UP Iða Zimsen Coffee happy hour every day from 8:00-10:00. All coffee 300 ISK, alcoohol from 19:00-22:00 A list of every Beer 445 ISK. Kaffi Kompaníið Happy Hour in Thursday to Sunday from 14:00 to 17:00. 2 for 1 Beer 850 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. 101 Reykjavík Kaldibar Every day from 17:00 to 20:00. 2 for 1 on Beer and Wine. 101 Hótel Every day from 16:00-18:00. Beer 475 ISK, Kiki Queer Bar Thursdays from 20:00 to 22:00. Wine 595 ISK. Beer 450 ISK, Wine 600 ISK. Austur Thursday to Saturday from 20:00 to 00:00 Kolabrautin Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer 800 ISK, Wine 800 ISK. Beer 450 ISK, Wine 700 ISK, Cocktails from B5 1,000 ISK, Champagne 1,500 ISK. Every day from 16:00-22:00. Beer 550 Lebowski Bar ISK, Cider 700 ISK, Wine 550 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Bar 11 2 for 1 Beer 900 ISK, Wine for 1,100 ISK. Thursdays to Saturdays from Loft Hostel Bar 21:00-00:00. Beer 500 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Bíó Paradís Download the FREE Beer 500 ISK, Cider 500 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Monday to Sunday from 17:00 to 19:30 Grapevine Appy Micro Bar 2 for 1 Beer 800 ISK, 2 for 1 wine 500 ISK. Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer 600 ISK. Bjarni Fel Hour app! Monday to Friday from 21:00-23:00. 2 for 1 Miðgarður Bistro bar Beer 990 ISK, shot with soda 1,300 ISK, shot Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. All drinks half Every happy hour in price, Beer 500 ISK, Wine 600 ISK. with energy drink 1,400 ISK. Boston town in your pocket. Nora Magasin Every day from 16:00 to 20:00, Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Available in the App Beer 500 ISK, House Wine for 600 ISK. Beer 550 ISK, Wine 550 ISK. Bunk Bar store and on the Prikið Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 20:00. 2 for 1 Beer 900 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Android Market. 2 for 1 Beer 750 ISK.

Celtic Cross Roadhouse Einar Ben Every day from 17:00 to 20:00. Friday and Saturday 22:00 to 23:00. Every day from 19:00 to 21:00. 2 for 1 Beer 900 ISK. 2 for 1 Beer 895 ISK, Wine 895 ISK. Beer 500 ISK Den Danske Kro SKY Bar & Lounge Gamli Gaukurinn Every day from 16:00-19:00. 2 for 1 Beer 950 Every day from 17:00 to 19:00, Beer 500 ISK, Every day from 21:00 - 22:00. ISK, 2 for 1 Guiness 1,000 ISK, 2 for 1 Wine Wine 800 ISK. Beer 500 ISK, single shot 500 ISK. 1,000 ISK. Slippbarinn Glaumbar Dillon Every day from 16:00 to 18:00. Beer 500 ISK, Monday to Thursday from 21:00 - 1:00. Friday Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Wine 500 ISK, selected Cocktails 950 ISK. to Saturday 21:00 - 4:30. Beer 390 ISK. Beer, Wine and Whisky 550 ISK. Stofan Harlem Dolly Every day from 17:00 to 20:00. Every day from 17:00 to 22:00. Tuesday to Thursday from 20:00 to 22:00, Beer 650 ISK, Wine 800 ISK. Beer 550 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Friday and Saturday from 17:00-22:00. Beer Þingholtsbar 500 ISK, wine 500 ISK. Hótel 1919 Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer 500 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Beer 600 ISK, Dubliner Wine 575 ISK, Cocktail of the day half price. Vínsmarkkarinn Every day from opening - 22:00. 2 for 1 Beer Monday to Saturday from 18:00 to 20:00. 1,000 ISK, 2 for 1 Wine 1,000 ISK, Shot of Hótel Holt Gallery Bar Beer 600 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Beer 650 ISK, Jameson 900 ISK. Wine 750 ISK, Cocktail of the day 1,200 ISK. ART ONGOING

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Psychotronic In Bryndís Hrönn Ragnardóttir's exhibi- tion the dismantling and reconstrsuc- tion of the human being is explored via drawing and music. She emphasis- es the idea of influencing the senses beyond the visual by playing with a sound diffuser. Runs until March 9 Mokka Kaffi Gálgahraun Artist Kristján Jón will exhibit a series of Kópavogur red and black chalk drawings from the Art Museum- protected Gálgahraun lava fields. Gerðarsafn Runs Until February 13 Hamraborg 4, Kópavogur Museum of Design and Applied Tel. +354 570 0440 Art Open 11–17 Ertu tilbúin frú forseti? Closed on Mondays The Museum of Design and Applied A Stroll Through Slab City www.gerdarsafn.is Art’s exhibition, ‘Are you ready, Mrs. President,’ displays clothing and other Friðrik Örn's Photography Exhibition at Eiðissker accessories from the wardrobe of Press Photo Exhibition former Icelandic President Mrs. Vigdís Eiðissker | Feb. 7 to 28 Finnbogadóttir. Hönnunarsafn Íslands Runs until October 5 One year ago photographer Friðrik Örn lived in Slab City, a Museum of Design Paradigm small town deep in southern California without running water, and Applied Art The exhibit consists of works by 18 Garðatorg 1, Garðabær Norwegian artists working in glass, sewage disposal, or any form of local government. Slab City Tel. +354 512 1525 ceramics and metals. The exhibition is a beacon to those seeking freedom from the restrictions of Open 12–17 includes works by some of the most modern society, attracting artists, hippies, tourists, and many Closed on Mondays outstanding Norwegian artists in others from all paths of life to live together in the comforts of www.honnunarsafn.is these fields. Runs until March 3 the Californian desert. Friðrik's new photography exposition Hafnarborg „Are you ready, Madam. The National Museum of Iceland gives us a glimpse into the vibrant world of Slab City, and the President?“ From a Different Angle: Photogra- amazing people that call it home. BS The Hafnarfjordur Paradigm phy by Icelandic Women 1872- Photo by Friðrik Örn Centre of Culture 2013 The exhibition features a hundred pic- and Fine Art tures taken by Icelandic women in the Find all art listings Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður past 125 years. The collection includes Tel. +354 585 5790 amateur and professional photog- online Open 12–17 raphers, and is also shown in the listings.grapevine.is Thursdays 12–21 Reykjavík Museum of Photography. Closed on Tuesdays To www.hafnarborg.is the Runs until May 11 Blu e Lag The Making Of A Nation C O O R D I N A T E S oon This exhibition is intended to provide Katrín Sigurðardóttir’s large-scale includes amateur and professional by Haraldur Jónsson insight into the history of the Icelandic installation which was Iceland’s photographers, and is also shown in Your Choice nation from the Settlement to the contribution to the 2013 Venice Bien- The National Museum of Iceland continually changing exhibition present day. nale comprises a raised floor which Runs until May 11 selected by our public On permanent view extends beyond the walls of the exhi- Petites Pauses Wood Carving Exhibition bition space. Visitors can step up onto This is the first of a series of exhibi- A special exhibition devoted to the the platform and walk on it. tions in Kubbin (The Cube) where wood carvings of Icelandic artist Runs Until April 13 various photographers can share Sigríður Sigurðardóttir will be on Reykjavík Art Museum - their images through a projector. The display. Sigríður learned and practiced Kjarvalsstadir first exhibition is “Petit Pause” by the wood carving in Iceland, Austria and The Seasons in Kjarval’s Art French photographer Vincent Malas- England. Every season imbues the land with new sis. Vincent works with realism and Runs until February 23 life, and every cloud sheds new colour the traditional interpretation seen in Nordic House upon the mountains. This exhibit fo- occidental painting. Nordic art books cuses on how land and saga merge to Runs until May 9 A group of artists from Denmark, The become one in the works of Jóhannes Photography Days Faroe Islands, Finland, Greenland, Kjarval. The biannual Ljósmyndadagar (“Pho- Iceland, Norway and Sweden exhibit Runs until October 12 tography Days”) festival is held for the Travel the Art books in The Nordic House exhibi- The Reykjavík City Library second time. It is not only about look- tion Halls. The collection centres around new ing at fine art photography but also Runs until February 23 Nordic literature, both fiction and about exploring the artists’ intentions Revolution: Generation Volcano nonfiction. The library lends out world of music that engraved certain moments on a A mix of watercolors, drawings, sculp- novels, academic publications, audio film reel or a SD card. tures, and super 8 videos which were books and more. Runs until February 9 View our exciting 2013/14 season shot on site at Snæfellsjökull and On permanent view SÍM Pelée by artist and volcanologist Anne Reykjavík City Museum Celestial Navigation at www.sinfonia.is. Herzog. Anne’s work depicts a vision- Reykjavík 871 +/- 2: The Settlement Artist Húbert Nói Jóhannesson has ary, imaginative, and documentary Exhibition recreated with paint, entirely from inspired perspective of the volcanic Archaeological findings from ruins of memory, a box which depicts the landscape. one of the first houses in Iceland and stars of the night sky. The installation Runs until February 26 other excavations in the city centre, questions the limitations of mankind’s The Old Harbour open daily 10:00-17:00 ability and the connection between Iceland Expo Pavillion On permanent view accuracy and art. It is on display in Every day from 10:00 to 22:00, Reykjavík Maritime Museum Neskirkja. Sagafilms projects a film of Icelandic The Coast Guard Vessel Óðinn Runs until March 31 scenery inside their Iceland Expo This vessel sailed through all three Cod Spark Design Space Pavillion which provides a unique 360 Wars and has also served as a rescue Reflection degree movie experience. ship to over 200 boats. Linda Árnadóttir, the founder and On permanent view On permanent view creative director of Scintilla, will open Reykjavík Art Museum - From Poverty to Abundance a show of mirrors. Up until the present Ásmundarsafn Photos documenting Icelandic fisher- Scintilla has focused on creating tex- “I’ve never seen figurative electric- men at the turn of the 20th century. tiles for the home but will now extend ity” On permanent view its product range and create new The exhibition displays works by Ice- The History of Sailing products from different materials. landic sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson Iceland's maritime history that show- Runs until February 28 along with new works by nine Icelan- cases the growth of the Reykjavík Volcano House dic contemporary artists. The exhibi- Harbour. The exhibition gives a brief overview of tion seeks to shed light on similarities On permanent view Iceland’s geological history and volca- found in works of contemporary art Reykjavík Museum of nic systems with superb photographs today. Photography of volcanic eruptions and other mag- Runs until April 27 Behind nificent aspects of Icelandic nature. Reykjavík Art Museum - Elo Vázquez’s photography exhibition On permanent view Hafnarhús explores the things and people we Wind and Weather Gallery Cadences of Line and Color leave behind, and the hidden world ‘Spann Sinnep Silkdrangi’ Featuring works by over 30 artists, the behind the obvious. The exhibition This exhibition by Ásta Fanney Sig- exhibition showcases works of art in displays a variety of her works from urðardóttir is an assemblage of mixed the spirit of “visual music.” The exhibi- Iceland and across Europe. media art, including paint, sculpture, tion was organized in collaboration Runs until March 4 video, and sound. The exhibition with the Reykjavík Centre for Visual From a Different Angle: Photogra- opens up a dialogue between texture, Music and opened at the inaugural phy by Icelandic Women 1872- colour, the cyber and the organic. Reykjavík Visual Music Festival. 2013 Runs until February 28 Runs until April 13 The exhibition features a hundred pictures taken by Icelandic women Foundation in the past 125 years. The collection Box office » 528 5050 » www.sinfonia.is » www.harpa.is F D For your mind, body and soul

“Hipsteresque” Par Excellence

The Coocoo’s Nest maximum use of its space. With The Open BLT was, as the name large windows and high ceilings, suggests, open and had therefore Grandagarður 23, 101 Reykjavík the room itself is bright and feels only one slice of bread. In my opin- spacious. It’s almost as if you’re ion, just keep the sandwich closed, What We Think: eating at an outdoor European café. especially when working with this Screams out hipster. The lunch menu is short and kind of crunchy and delicious simple, consisting of soups, salads bread. The aioli left something to Flavour: and sandwiches. A clever option is be desired, but the sandwich was Fresh, healthy, organic. to mix two of the three, for example still very tasty with fresh tomatoes Ambiance: a soup and sandwich, in which case and lettuce and perfectly cooked, Sarcastic? you only pay for the sandwich. This crispy bacon on top. Service: is what my companion and I did. Given the modern hipster vibe Exceptional. We both had the soup of the day of the place, we of course felt it es- (1,590 ISK), which was a carrot- sential to finish off our meal with a Price for 2 (without drinks): ginger-coconut soup. It was of a cup of coffee, which is, you guessed Less than 4,000 ISK perfect consistency, fragrant and it, organic of course. The coffee full of flavour. A nice drizzle of served at The Coocoo’s Nest is very olive oil on top made it even more likely among the best that Reykja- silky smooth. It would have been vík has to offer and, make no mis- nice to get some bread along with take about it, Reykjavík has some The Coocoo's Nest opened last the soup, which I am sure the serv- pretty fine coffee. It was served by summer in the very happening har- ers would have provided had we one of two wonderful servers who bour area, next to insanely popular asked. were both exceedingly professional ice cream parlour Valdís. Concep- My companion chose a signa- and attentive. tually, the establishment is of the ture Turkey & Cranberry sandwich Next on our agenda is to visit kind found in the coolest quarters (1,790 ISK) while I chose a "sand- during aperitivo-hour, which lasts of cities like New York, Berlin or wich of the day," an Open BLT with until 19:00 every evening. It is my Paris. aioli sauce (1,690 ISK). It should understanding that after ordering a The place is difficult to catego- be noted, and commended, that all glass of wine (from a surprisingly rise right off the bat: it’s a prime sandwiches are made from home- ambitious wine list), the chef will place for a lunchm a n date y f duringa m o u the s p e o p madel e a sourdoughr e r e g u lbread, a r s hwhich e r e is simply make you something that week, a place to visit after work for nothing short of sourdough bread comes to his mind, a kind of tapas an "aperitivo," a place to get you heaven. The Turkey and Cran- served on some of that oh so nice started with pancakes and bacon on berry had a generous amount of bread. weekends, and finally a place to get real slices of turkey (not the kind a delicious and healthy sourdough of cheap ham-like stuff) soaked pizza and a cheap bottle of wine in delicious cranberry sauce. My later on in the evenings. companion also asked for an added It is my understanding, how- slice of avocado, which he deemed ever, that the best time to visit is to be perfect next to the main in- for lunch. Although the place is gredients. I'll take his word for it. BJÖRN TEITSSON small, it’s well designed to make ALISA KALYANOVA

m a n y f a m o u s p e o p l e a r e r e g u l a r s h e r e

the finest Thai restaurant in Iceland Top Ten Best Restaurants In Iceland Ban the bestThai thai food 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013

w w w . b a n t h a i . i s Laugavegur 130, ofan við Hlemm Tel : 692-0564 A l s o R e c o m m e n d . . . . . y u m m i y u m m i Tel: 588-2121 H v e r f i s g a t a 123, 105 Rvk. w w w . y u m m y . i s People Get Ready, There’s A Train A Comin’

Hraðlestin My companion and I came in on then Chicken Tikka is not known a Friday evening. Hraðlestin does for its "explosive" elements any- Lækjargata 8, 101 Reykjavík not take reservations, but I was way. All in all, it was a fine dish. informed that I would not have to Here the naan-bread and Onion Pa- What We Think: worry—if there would be any wait, koda came in handy to soak up the Westernized Indian. it would be short and sweet, which sauce. The Lamb Kurma was a bit Flavour: was the case. The menu is colour- of disappointment. The sauce was Mild, balanced. ful and simple, a bit "dineresque" nice, although I must make a claim Ambiance: even. It consists of three starters, for more spice—as it is stated on Laid back. nine main courses and various the menu that the dish is supposed accompaniments, typical wester- to be hot. The raita was essentially Service: nised Indian food dishes, such as just sitting there, useless, as there Friendly and professional. Samosa-pockets, Tandoori-lamb/ was never any need for cooling. Price for 2 (with drinks): chicken, Madras-chicken etc. That was not the main problem 8,000 ISK (a steal). My companion and I settled though. The lamb was simply too upon "Special offer 3," which dry. When broken up, it was of a seemed to be what everyone else very unappealing, grey colour. in the dining room was order- That said, the visit still made for ing. When in Rome and all that. a nice experience. A friendly staff For a mere 2,495 ISK per person, presented the dishes very well and, Hraðlestin is a chain serving a we got a bunch of food. The deep in general, the food was good, save westernized version of Indian food. fried Onion Pakoda was delicious, for the lamb. The atmosphere is It started as a single take-away res- crunchy and flavourful, served laid back, in fact perfect for going taurant on Hverfisgata called Aus- with coriander chutney, which was out with a bunch of friends to have turlandahraðlestin (essentially a lovely. Plenty of naan-breads were a taste of various exotic dishes (as translation of East-Indian Express, also served, which is really difficult far as “exotic” goes in our post- which does not exist in real life as to mess up, and they didn’t. The modern society). The portions are far as I know). They now have four raita (mint-cucumber-garlic dip) generous, so there is no need to locations—the most presentable could have been a bit more flavour- worry about leaving the place want- one located on Lækjargata—that ful, but was of a nice consistency. ing more. It should also be noted offer a place to sit down in addition The main dishes were Chicken that not only is the food quite fairly to their original take-away arrange- Tikka Masala and Lamb Kurma. priced, but also the drinks! Cheers! ment. Today, Hraðlestin could be The Tikka Masala was very nice. considered a younger sibling to The chicken was perfectly cooked Austur-Indíafélagið, being a less and not too dry at all. The sauce expensive alternative to the more was well balanced, fragrant and of established Indian restaurant on a lovely consistency. It was a bit BJÖRN TEITSSON Hverfisgata. lacking in spice in my opinion, but ALISA KALYANOVA

Reykjavik Est. 2012

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Sónar Reykjavík Brings The Best In Electronic Music To The Winter Masses Words by Bob Cluness Today we live in a truly globalised years ago. Founded back in 1994 Boys,Iceland Kraftwerk and Derrick May ibly talented young artists, DJs by three men, Ricard Robles, Enric last year alongside newer acts such - from Santiago or drone techno from Palau and Sergi Caballero, it was as Skrillex, Karenn, Seth Troxler and these shores. Kazakhstan, our digital interconnec- Fatima Al Qadiri. To that end, the organisers of tions ensure that the entire canon of Music and Multimedia Art.” That year, as festival, Sonar has continued to - grow. Two years ago, it moved on from mus wowed the international media a vehicle for change by not only flavours on street corners all over the its traditional daytime venues at the - and stature have grown organically in In its second year now, the for Icelandic electronic music, but tandem with dance music itself and it festival has grown from two nights also a breeding ground to foster new in another continent. Every weekend, is now one of the biggest and most growth and much needed dynamism there are more new club nights, more on the bill. This year also sees the from Icelandic dance music both festival run in tandem with Sonar by DJs criss-crossing the continents same time they created Sonar+D, a Stockholm, with headliners travel- on low cost airlines armed only with a series of events that aim to look at the ling between the cities on different - - link between dance music, creativity nights. This could mean a fair bit of vik, all we can say is this; no matter At the heart of all this mayhem, and new digital technologies. standardisation in the headline acts, standing like a calm fortress against a In reality though, Sonar is a brand, - whirlwind of blind hedonism is Sonar, tional artists such as Evian Christ, disco house, or stonking techno, we a shining beacon that celebrates a out to cities across the world in a series can safely guarantee that there will 2003, Ricardo Villalobos back-to-back definitely be something on offer this that draws fans, artists, and industry with Richie Hawtin in 2004). It also weekend. Meanwhile, far away from weekend that will cause your ears to manages to trace the line of current much of the heat and light of more Sonar has come a long way since Concert Centre last year where, de- established scenes around the Now get going and remember to its humble beginnings more than 20 world, there are also some incred-

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Daphni Exos James Holden Housekell Starwalker

Talk about seeing the light. As the If you fancy your beats a bit harder - There are quite a few acts on this Caribou, Dan Snaith had a good thing come in a more multifaceted or going on. But then he had to go and mysterious form than music from the material or make their live debuts. do a Four Tet by going to clubbing But out of all of them, none seem to techno action where you can hear sounds and grooves into their sets, invite more intrigue and interest than dance music and culminated in the something which was sorely needed. creation of his DAPHNI alias. His 2012 microgrooves and abstract down- Making their live debut at Sonar, the tuned electronica. But it was his 2013 - money says you should go and tracks, shows a deft, astute hand in leased on his equally enigmatic Bor- understanding the language of dance releasing music with the likes of Thule der Community label), where things grooves that at the same time feels and Force Music. With a canon that got really interesting. A no holds the newer kids on the block, but his - loose and nimble. He also showed - barred mix of analogue drone sounds, that his mixing skills and ear are - house music marks him out from such as Dave Clarke, Surgeon, Mortiz magick. If you have ever danced in local club house/garage collective a dark forest or cave with the wood definitely no slouch. Highly recom- With new stuff coming out in 2014 on mended. his new label, Strobelight Network, be the desired soundtrack for you. banging 12” vinyl releases from him in Friday, February 14, Saturday, February 15, you need to check him out. Saturday, February 15, SonarHall – Norðurljós, SonarClub – Silfurberg, Friday, February 14, Sonar- SonarHall – Norðurljós, Saturday, February 15, 20:00–20:45 23:00–00:30 Lab - Car Park, 23:00–00:00 23:15–00:15 SonarFlói - Bay View Area, 00:00–01:00 3

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A Trip Hop Legend Words by Simon Chetrit Friday, February 14 — SonarClub - Silfurberg 21:45–22:45

Simon ed to make these albums include to me at the time, not that it neces- electronic stuff. I think that would - sometimes I think the greatest be a good one. Are there any bands on the the road forever. Sonar Reykjavík bill that evolved with the general music. What have you been listening you'd like to see? So you've been touring quite to lately, as far as inspira- he has gone on to release four extensively lately, do you tion? Where would you like to see have any insight on the dif- your music go and the genre ferences between touring in develop? This most recent album is the US and Europe? been listening to a lot of more neo- a clear evolution for Simon as like Matthew Bourne and Dustin definitely James Holden, if I can. that a little, to sort of cross over electronic beats, a sound entirely live in New York on a visa, so um... Is there anything in Iceland I do half my touring in America and area, to make your music without itself you'd like to see? instrumental, with slightly faster 4/4 familiar now, touring in America. The American crowds react more to music coming out. towards the realm of the dance- able. At times evocative of James Are you listening to any Ice- wanted to go to the most, out of landic musicians? - - out there a few days before the fes- I like a lot Icelandic folk music, a lot to be getting along with it, and that ing beatsmiths in electronica. tival, to go out into the country and the music. Simon recently took some time lot of very beautiful, kind of wistful off while driving through the Colo- little bit. Icelandic folk music. rado Desert to share his thoughts Collaboration And Iceland And The on Iceland, the differences between Influence Festival and the evolution of his musical A Constant style. In your music, especially Seeing as how you're play- lately, it seems you've got a Evolution ing a multiband festival in What have you been working penchant for collaborations. Iceland where people may or How would you say your mu- on lately? Are there any kind of dream may not be very familiar with collaborations you'd love to your music, can you offer see happen? a convenient entry point in your discography for a new listener? for the last seven months. But actu- I guess I worked with Erykah Badu, - who was kind of one of those, you know, she was definitely on my list which was, you know, that kind of of dream collaborations. But I think of broad idea of what my sound is stuff, more or less late night stuff. know, who make this kind of music, album than the last one, because it contribute to one of these albums 10–15 years later; it would seem a [other artists who have been select- I think everyone would love to work 5 Cell7 A Pioneer Of Icelandic Hip Hop Words by Burke Jam Friday, February 14 — SonarFlói - Bay View Area 22:00-23:00

an American art form is a grave mis- nomer. While the origin and root electronic musician in Iceland—be- are indefinitely seated within black ing a musician in Iceland in general assume this is still its only functional differs musically even though we do have the MC factor and genre in com- very genre. To have voice and iden- tity, to celebrate it, and to articulate because we throw in the attitude with authentically are the first and most - mance. And listening to a combina- A veteran of the Icelandic scene, tion of all that in Icelandic while not knowing the language must be hard extraordinarily well and with confi- to relate to. dence, understanding of her roots and - conceived idea that Icelanders have no business in making music of the - - York to study audio engineering and recording, she relocated back to her MCs who are removed from some of in terms of record releases, the genre weather conditions at this time of is one of the smallest ones in Iceland. a massively solid album to stand tremendous influence on me. I define almost 15-year hiatus. - my music, not the other way around. ous trending musicians at the same and songs that are getting thousands small and young scene, but with this being a truly good live entertainer and of hits and views. Who are you looking forward to MC there is real soul, strength and seeing most at the festival? her genre in Iceland. Your record is one of the most I fit into it and it has never been a groove and a full frontal arsenal of An interesting contrast to much of buzzed about leading up to the great concern of mine. But I guess rhymes, Ragna is ready to kick in the the other Icelandic electronic sound festival, what should we expect - Icelandic music should sound like. in common with international headlin- out of your performance? While giving nod to the musicians and My goal is to give a dynamic and Besides your set, who would sounds that have come before her MC is distinctly of Iceland however, say is a must-see Icelandic - Some have said recently that tional audience, she is ready to add deliver a new dynamic to the already Icelanders should not try to her two cents and wants the world amazing array of Icelandic music make music that is not of Ice- The cool cats of Moses Hightower along for the ride. She does this with being showcased. In her own words - land, i.e. hip-hop and reggae; have always been a favourite of mine. a fierce flow that is as honest as it is here are some thoughts about this tronic music. I try to stick to the basic do you have any thoughts on assertive, as authentic as it is aware what it means to be an MC hail- as well are Kiriyama Family, Hermi- of its roots, and as willing to break like an MC does. gervill, Sykur, Berndsen, Introbeats, those roots to create a sound that is How do you feel about this ing from Reykjavík? How would you describe the festival as a representation of Icelandic hip-hop scene and Icelandic electronic music? Any closing thoughts? - where do you fit in it? imagine it might be easier getting The Icelandic music scene is filled Break boundaries, be unafraid of new - is an excellent venue to showcase been low key; even though it has its ers Earmax and Introbeats. She views so many talented artists such as the vibe of the record as a bit of an artists, as well as veterans, are of the mainstream genres in Iceland

internationally recognised for curating But after some "clever financing" that Meet The big star at the core of the festival. featuring moveable felt and wooden held in May 2011. rather less catchy moniker of "The Venue: - hand. The multi-tiered Eldborg hall a favourite amongst locals and Harpa is flanked by two near-invisible echo visitors alike. It is currently the home hard-to-miss building that dominates chambers, cavernous in scale, that Words by John Rogers four concert halls of varying size and hatches to varying degrees. The vol- by a diverse range of artists, from design, as well as numerous smaller to be deafening with an orchestra in Airwaves Festival makes good use including a high-end restaurant and a full flow. to be held in Iceland will add another - result of collaboration between artist struction was cloaked in controversy, Ólafur Eliasson and Danish architect electronic artists to make use of its world-class acoustics. stood half-finished for a seemingly in- Premiering Program 6 HE

Thursday, 13th Saturday, 15th

SonarClub - Silfurberg SonarClub - Silfurberg 20:00 — Ryuichi Sakamoto & Taylor 19:30 — Steindor Jonsson Deupree 20:30 — Mind In Motion 21:30 — HE 21:45 — FM Belfast 22:45 — Eloq 23:00 — Daphni 23:45 — GusGus 00:50 — Major Lazer

SonarFlói - Bay View Area SonarHall - Norðurljós 20:00 — Tonik 20:00 — Highlands 21:00 — Introbeats 21:00 — Sísý Ey 22:00 — Kiriyama Family 22:00 — Hjaltalín 23:00 — Moses Hightower 23:15 — James Holden Högni Egilsson Shows His Teeth 00:00 — Hermigervill 00:45 — Trentemøller Words by John Rogers SonarComplex - Kaldalón SonarLab - Car Park 20:00 — DADA 21:00 — DJ Hendrik There Are No 21:00 — Fura Thursday, February 13 — SonarClub - Silfurberg 22:00 — Evian Christ Friends In Art 22:00 — Good Moon Deer 23:00 — Diplo 23:00 — Muted 00:00 — Kenton Slash Demon 00:00 — Tanya & Marlon 21:30–22:30 And how is it to take the stage for 01:00 — DJ Frímann 02:00 — DJ Margeir Does stage-fear wear off for sonal, that struck a different kind Friday, 14th of chord,” he says. "I was trying to SonarFlói - Bay View Area - bar in relaxed and confident form, fish out some sort of a centre, to 20:00 — Low Roar SonarClub - Silfurberg start from there and create a uni- 21:00 — Ojba Rasta bit strange to be alone, but then, 19:30 — Viktor Birgiss shoot, which came after recording verse around me, filled with end- 22:00 — Sykur there are no friends in art,” he 20:30 — Downliners Sekt less reflections, something at the 23:00 — Steve Sampling 21:45 — Bonobo cathedral earlier in the afternoon. 00:00 — Housekell alone.” 23:00 — Gluteus Maximus 01:00 — Fknhndsm 00:00 — Paul Kalkbrenner - - SonarComplex - Kaldalón I said that to a long-time collabo- SonarHall - Norðurljós not more ambitious or grand than 21:00 — Sometime rator, and he was insulted,” he 20:00 — Starwalker also writing a wind quintet for the 22:00 — Vök 21:00 — Kiasmos ensemble here in Iceland, for a 23:00 — Re-Pete and the Wolfmachine friends within art, but for the sake 22:15 — When Saints Go Machine initials, I wonder if HE is meant 00:00 — Árni² of creation, for the sake of driving 23:30 — Kölsch Between the two, and the small in the broader sense also, of 01:00 — Einóma towards some divine abstrac- 01:15 — Jon Hopkins mankind more generally. "HE is a tion, when you want it to become - - SonarLab - Car Park game of being serious about your ness, of some worldly affection.” 21:00 — Kristinn Bjarnason art…" He is masculine, he says, hesi- 22:00 — DJ Yamaho tantly, noting its gentle qualities. 23:00 — Exos 00:00 — Kid Mistik ago when I was working on a 01:00 — The Mansisters he says, carefully. "And I agree with that, but you have to ex- "I wrote some music for a concert, SonarFlói - Bay View Area - beauty, tragedy, modesty, lush 20:00 — Halleluwah orchestration, a warm, human, 21:00 — Gísli Pálmi have heard it.” choral sound." 22:00 — CELL7 23:00 — Futuregrapher this in theatre, with set designers 00:00 — Berndsen and artists from Russia and the The Edge Of been thought through and through, 01:00 — Terrordisco - Intuition - SonarComplex - Kaldalón things are very soft and friendly, 21:00 — Sachiko M was to be a reflective look at but if you want to find some sort 22:00 — Stereo Hypnosis society and humans in a timeless of a real core and say some- 23:00 — Skurken he does acknowledge his urge to 00:00 — Orang Volante create something in which he had cushions. Sometimes, you have to 01:00 — Jon Edvald a new century. We enter a new show your teeth.” - OneOne stopstop AppleApple shopshop

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