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Sport in Ashanti, or, Melinda the caboceer: a tale of the Gold Coast in the days of King Koffee Kalcalli

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Alternative title Melinda the caboceer Author/Creator Skertchly, J. Alfred. Date 1876 Resource type Books Language English Subject Coverage (spatial) Volta-Tano Watershed, Ghana Source Northwestern University Libraries, 916.67 S627s Description by J. A. Skertchly with original illustrations. Format extent 390 pages (length/size)

http://www.aluka.org/action/showMetadata?doi=10.5555/AL.CH.DOCUMENT.nuhmskertchly1

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SPORT IN ASHANTI

"A shriek and a plunge told us that his aim had been true." Frontisiece. P.

SPORT IN ASHANTI OR MELINDA THE CABOCEER A TALE OF THE GOLD COAST IN THE DAYS OF KING KOFFEE KALCALLI BY J. A. SKERTCItLY AUTHOR OF " DAHOMEY AS IT IS," ETC. ETC. WITH ORIGINAL ILLUSTRATIONS FREDERICK LONDON WARNE AND CO. AND NEW YORK

PREFACE. WHEN on the Gold Coast some. years since I formed the acquaintance of several Ashantee caboceers, who were then out on the war-path against the King of Axim and other petty chiefs. One of them, with whom I was particularly intimate, told me that he was not an Ashantee by birth, but a native of one of the Niger States, and had been seized in one of the kidnapping expeditions of his neighbours, just after he had wedded the daughter of a friendly king. He had been sold into slavery, together with his bride, and after many adventures had arrived in Ashantee, where he became separated from his wife. Although a slave when he entered the country, he quickly gained the esteem of his master by his bravery, and upon his death, following a common custom of all nations of the West Coast, he succeeded him in his office as caboceer. After many failures, lie was fortunate enough to recover his wife, and was only awaiting an opportunity to return to his own country when I met with him. Upan his narrative the following tale is founded, while many of the hunting scenes are taken from my own adventures in Western Africa.

PREFA CE. Though the names and localities have been changed, yet there are many residents upon the Gold Coast who will possibly recognise an old acquaintance in Melinda. The work has been written with the desire to give a slight insight into some of the manners and customs and scenes of every-day life in Ashantee, in a lighter form than a dry narration of facts; and if I have succeeded in imparting the slightest knowledge of the habits of a race now so prominently brought before us through the recent war, my object has been attained. Perhaps a more sensational novel might have been written, but I have confined myself throughout to incidents which either came under my own observation, or which are of such common occurrence as to be within the ken of every person who has the good or ill luck to be a resident upon the Gold Coast. Trusting, therefore, that the reader will pardon any shortcomings his better judgment may detect, I lay the book before him, and if he is, by its perusal, enabled to while away an idle hour, I shall be well satisfied. J. A. S.

CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE We Leave England-Gale of Wind-ladeira-Teneriffe-The Gambia-Sierra Leone-1homas Nimbley, Esq.-Sharks at Cape Palmas-Arrival at Assinee-Precarious Landing -"Pawns "-Aziza the Lion-hearted-We Start for the Interior 1 CHAPTER II. Start for Kirjabo-River Scenery-Aziza's Adventure with an Alligator-King Amootafon-Melinda the Ash.ntP Chiet-Off Again-A Night Attack . . .. . 41 CHAPTER 1II. Sunrise in the Forest-A Terrible Ordeal-Down in the MudKing Baugolo-Magic Cookery-AGhostStory . . .67 CHAPTER IV. Arrival at Coomassie-Thieves' Heads-The King's InterpreterAn Asbantee Mansion-Present from the King-A Human Sacrifice. . . . , . . . , . .9U

Viii CONTLgNTS. CHAPTER V. PAOE Mpengala, King of the Yaurauri-The Princess Awoona-King Salamah's Palaver with the Rabbarori-Their Defeat-Visit of Salamah to Mpengala-Prince Melinda-Awoona Betrothed ...... 105 CHAPTER VI. Grand Hunt of the Yaurauri-Baraka's Fetichism-Elephants-Melinda Shoots a Lion-Preparation for the WeddingToilet of the Bride-The Ceremony . . 117 CHAPTER VII. Terrible News-Invasion of the Rabbarori-Baraka's ExorcismThe Attack-Death of Mpengala-Capture of MelindaRepulse of the Rabbarori-Awoona also a Prisoner- They are Sold into Slavery-Melinda is Created a Caboceer iu Ashantee-He hears News of Awoona . 132 CHAPTER VIII. The 0 ras-King Koffee's Reception-Gorgeous Asseml-lyProcession of Nobles- The Fetiche Tree of Comassie--" Palace of the King . 150 CHAPTER IX. Araba and the Doctor-The Greegree-Opomba's Victim-An Anti-Greegree Cracker-Flight of the Feticheer-Another Patient-" Wanted, a Seidlitz Powder "-State Thieves-An Execution * . 171 CHAPTER X. A Visit from Driver Ants--A Formidable Invasion-Farewell to King Koffee-A Defaulter Ptnished-Horrible Dacapitation Scene-Palm Oil Manufacture-The Bantama Tombs-Our Last Night in Coomassie ...... 192

CONTENTS. CHAPTER XI. PAGE We Leave Coomassie for the Interior-A Dewy Morning-Ants again-Richards Gets into a Fix-Our Camp in the Forest -We Consider our Future Route-News of the Chimpanzee -Fetiche Game-Forteseue Walks into the Ants, and. they Walk into Him-How Melinda Telegraphed for Assistance -His Vow- The Messengers of the Ashantee Gods-The Man with the Cast-iron Stomach- Alligators-Crossing on a Reed Raft-Fighting a Crocodile in the Water-A Terrible SnakeAdventure...... 216 CHAPTER XII. Dedamassic-We are Invited to the Marriage of a CaboceerCurious Ceremony- Asbantee Umbrellas and Ashantee Guns -An Ashantee Bride-Water versus Carbolic Acid . . 237 CHAPTER XII. Elephants again-Narrow Escape of being Run Down-A Thick Jungle-Fearful Peril-A Good Day's Sport-Nearly Killed by a Dead Elephant- Elephant Cookery-Lion HuntingAdventure with a Python-A Crocodile Hunt-I am nearly Bitten by a Snake ...... 248 CHAPTER XlV. A Rheumatic Patient-A Man Bewitched-Malignant Cruelty of Fetichism-A Murder through Witchcraft-Death of Ovenga-Night in the Forest- An Unfortunate Buffalo"Venomous Spiders-Chimpanzee Hunting-We nearly Liso our Prey--What is a Crab P-Monkey versus BabyA Scaly Manis-I Discover a Cave--Stalactites-Horrible Meeting with a Python ...... 23 CHAPTER XV. A Duel with Hippopotami-Terrible Encounter with a PantherTwo Men Seized- Tortoises-A Desperate Rhinoceros-A Baboon Hotel-Running down Elephants-A Heavy Game Bag-An Unwelcome Bedfellow . . . . . 2S2

CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVI. PAGE Another Python-Thrilling Adventure with an Elephant-Morey. mai's Terror at Witchcraft-Driving out Witches, Imposing Ceremony--An Invasion-Our Successful Resistance- Offers of Slaves-News of Awaona at Last .. . . . 203 CHAPTER XVII. We Start on our Expedition in Search of Awoona-River Scenery -King Bangala of Addalundah-His Duplicity-We are not Deceived by Him-The Results of Melinda's Scouting Expedition-Awoona is Carried off to Bangala's Plantation-His Intentions respecting Her-Melinda Misses his QuiverWe get a Sight of Awoona at Last-Success of our PlansAziza and Melinda are nearly Shot Over a Cataract . . 316 CHAPTER XVIHI. Awoona's Narrative-She is Thrice Sold as a Slave-Her Narrow Escape of being Re-married-We Start on our Canoe Journey-Narrow Escape of being Discovered-Anether Shave-We are Fired at by Bangala-The Fight-Running the Gauntlet-Safe Arrival at Ascacoomah-The King's Opinion of Englishmen ...... 332 CHAPTER XIX. A Midnight Attack-Terrible Massacre-Awoona's Narrow Escape-The Lugandas to the Rescue-Funeral of King Leamba at Dedumassie-Coomass:e again-Quakoo's Villainy -Almost Poisoned- Cape Coast Castle--D,.parturc for England . . .. , . . 341

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE A SIRIEK AND A PLUNGE TOLD US 'TiHAT IllS AIM HAD BEEN TRUE . . . a . . Fronti RiCce I THRUST THE GUN DOWN HIS THROAT . . . . 48 STAMPING WITH RAGE, HE AGAIN APPROACHED THE GATE IS2 A WELL-DIRECTED SHOT JUST ABOVE THE EYE, IN THE LEFT TEMPLE) BROUGHT HER TO THE GROUND * 251

SPOR'1 IN ASHANTI. (UHAPTER I. WE LEAVE ENGLAND-GALE OF WIND-LADEIRA-TENERIFFE-THE GAMBIA -SIERRA LEONE-THOMAS NIMBLEY, ESQ.-SHARKS AT CAPE rALMASARRIVAL AT ASSINEE-PRECARIOUS LANDING-" PAWNS "- AZIZA THE LION- 11EARTED -WE START FOR THE INTERIOR. TI E African Company's steam-tender 'Fairy' was dancing up and down upon the "lumpy" water at the Prince's LandingStage, Liverpool, about two o'clock one morning in February, 1 -, ready to embark the passengers for the steamship 'Benin.' Iler was lumbered up with a heterogeneous collection of baggaye, from the prim corded and canvas-covered trunks of the governess in charge of the "young ladies" who were about to spend a few months in Madeira, to the strong serviceable till packing cases of the agent returning to "the Coast" for the thirteenth time. Sturdy porters with irreproachable blouses, and as genuine a brogue, were toiling down the stairs leading to the Landing- Stage, ever adding to the piles already accumulated on the deck. Here comes what might be called by a very slight stretch of the 13

SPORT IN ASHANTI imagination a caravan, which, by the ease with which it is carried by the porter, cannot contain anything very heavy, and which is under the especial eye of an austere-looking personage of the gentler sex. As this lady will occupy a rather conspicuous place on the 'Benin's' list of passengers, a brief description may be acceptable. Short-absolutely squat,-with an incipient hump, and no neck to speak of, she was one of those curiouslybuilt people who puzzle one's brains to tell whether they are sitting down or standing up. Her age might be anywhere between thirty-eight and sixty, and her sallow complexion was rendered more sepulchral in its hue by two conspicuous patches of rouge, while her cap, of the pattern of the last century, which seemed to have been made up of clippings of a rainbow, so multitudinous were its tints, afforded a peculiar contrast to her putty- coloured skin; in her right band she held a veritable Mrs. Gamp, while on the other arm a string-netted bag contained a pocket-handkerchief, a fan, a vinaigrette, and fourpencehalfpenny carefully twisted up in a scrap of newspaper. With the hook of her umbrella stuck through the cords of her box as an additional precaution against its falling, she waddled along in the rear of her porter much after the fashion of a duck in pat~tens. As the man paused to allow a brother porter to ascend, a harsh grating voice broke upon the ear in the words, "Now, then, mind my box. Good gracious! mind what you are at; if you drop my box you will spoil my new fronts." Making a clutch at the sacred package with a greater care for the safety of her property than the stability of her equilibrium, she slipped on one of the cleats of the stairs, and sat down with a suddenness that was, to say the least of it, remarkable, the hook of her umbrella hitting a sedate-looking gentleman, who was fOllowing her, in the face. The porter with the "caravan" walked on regardless of the accident, while a bystander, foreseeing perhaps a prospective sixpence, flew to the aid of lovely woman in distress, and, having set her on her feet, gallantly escorted her on board the tender,

EDWARD FOR TESCUE. where the discomfited lady obtained spiritual solace from the stewardess in the shape of a glass of brandy. The bell of the tender had just begun to toll for the last time, when a cab dashed up to the stage, and a tall gentleman, accompanied by another who had evidently travelled, alighted, and, tossing half-a-crown to the driver, hurried on board the boat. Making his way towards the , he was saluted by two per. sons, apparently his servants, who, pointing to a huge pile of luggage near them, said, "All safe on board, sir, though we had some difficulty in getting the powder down in time." "Well so long as it is on board, Richards, we will not grumble." Just at this moment the purser and doctor of the ' Benin' made their appearance, and in a few moments the 'Fairy' had cast off her moorings and was paddling off towards the 'Benin,' which, coming down "dead slow," was now visible about a mile f'ron us. While getting alongside, we will inquire who the owner of the powder is. A glance at the luggage upon wMch he is sitting reveals the letters, "E. F., C. C. C.," and as the doctor nods familiarly to the owner with a " Good-morning, Mr. Fortescue," we may conclude that the letters stand for "Edward Fortescue, Cape Coast Castle." Nor should we be deceived. Edwar4 Fortescue, the son otf wealthy squire in one of the southern counties, had always been an ardent sportsman, and when upon the death of his father lie 'otnd himself possessed of sufficient wealth to gratify his tastes to repletion, he at once determined to visit West Africa for the Iurpose of forming a personal acquaintance with the people and to enjoy that sport of which be was so passionately fond, the pheasants and hares of his own domain scarcely presenting worthy objects upon which to spend his powder. He was ac. companied by two servants, Richards and Stuart, and, to judge from the pyramid of gun-cases, Ehot-bags, and other bunting impedimenta, he was evidently bent upon dealing destruction to the fera naturaw of the "Coast." His companion was the nar-

SPORI T IN ASIIANT. rator of these adventures, Arthur Danvers, a restless wanderer, whose descriptions of West Africa had induced Fortescue to visit its unhealthy shores. Arrived alongside the 'Benin,' the luggage was quickly transferred to her spacious deck, the transhipment of the ladies from the bobbing paddle-box of the tender being a splendid opportunity for the gallant services of the gentlemen; but Miss Stevens, our friend with the caravan, indignantly declined the offer of the arm of a young officer, telling him to " Go along wiith his imperdence," and, essaying to step on board the steamer at the time the tender was more than u-ually restive, she again came to grief, and measured her length-or shortness rather-on the poop of the 'Benin,' while the unfortunate umbrella, being totally inadequate to sustain her weight, was snapped into three pitces. No sooner had the tender cast off than the bell in the engineroom gave four strokes, the signal for full speed ahead, and the pilot on the bridge, pulling up the scarf still higher round his throat, seemed to be glad to get on a little faster. Meanwhile the purser and stewards were busily engaged in conducting the passengers to their respective berths, and in putting their multitudinous packages under safe custody. Miss Stevens was heard in vigorous strife with the purser because her cabin or bedroom, as she called it, was next to that of two officers who were going out to the Gambia, besides which she declared that she was not going to sleep in a "pig-trough," and was still more discomfited when she was seriously told that the captain would not send ashore for another umbrella to replace the one broken by her dignified entrance upon the vessel. Soon we were off the Bell Buoy,-that clanging beacon, warning the mariner of the dangerous proximity of the treacherous sands, while, at the same time, it cheers him with the thought that he has almost reached his desired haven, and that in a few hours his responsibilities will be over, and his anxiety rewarded by the loving welcomes of his friends. The Skerrie. were passed in due time, and shortly after the

IN THE 1RISH CHANNEL. frowning cliffs of Holyhead, with their picturesque lighthouses and coast-guard station, appeared. Here the pilot left us, and we were severed from the only remaining connection with old England. As the shades of evening deepened, we steamed by the illstarred spot where the ' Charter' was lost, and where the heroism of the Maltese sailor shone out so conspicuously in his gallant attempt to save the lives of his fellow-voyagers. As the night came on, the distant shores receded into misty nothingness, and, just as four bells were struck, we lost sight of the cloudy bank which, somewhat darker than the rest, was all that we could distinguish of the hills of Carnarvon, and a sadness came over us at the thought that we had gazed upon the shores of dear old England perhaps for the last time, and that ere our eyes were again gladdened by the sight, some of those dear friends we were leaving in sorrow behind us might be called away to that bourn fi'om which no traveller returns. Seated round the tea-table on that first evening there was a subdued tone in the conversation, for even the captain himself acknowledged that he felt a something rising in his throat as he left all that was dear to him for a voyage on the treacherous sea. About four in the morning the brilliant light of the Tuskar was seen on our starboard beam, and by broakfast-time the 'Benin' was bowing gracefully to the heaving swell of the Atlantic. Most of the ladies, and indeed some of the gentlemen, were below calling anxiously for the steward, for one of the first requirements of Neptune seems to be to demand an cmpty stomach on the part of his visitors. Such of us as possessed "sea legs" were gazing admiringly at the numerous vessels saiiing in every direction, some beating against the wind, others running before it with stu'ns'ls alow and aloft, the snowy foam curling round their bows or being dashed away, as if the noble vessel scornfully rejected their embrace. Fortescue soon made friends with every one on board, from the captain to the buys; nothing appeared to delight him so much as to go forward on to the fo'c'sT in the evening, armed with a bottle of rum, and

SPORT IN ASHANTI. listen to the yarns of some of the old salts or the uproarious songs of the younger ones; at other times he would be found in the engine-room sitting on an upturned bag of waste, making inquiries into the wondrous mechanism which surrounded him. The morning of the third day out was ushered in with a drizzling rain and a leaden-coloured sky, while the bright blue of the ocean was changed to a dull cold steel, against which the snow-white foam of the wave-crests shone out conspicuously. The sailors were clad in their by no means picturesque oilskin garments, which appeared to be made to fit anything rather than human beings, while their broad-flapped sou'westers strongly reminded one of Cockerell's coal- porters. The captain had been anxiously watching the movements of the b- rometer, and during breakfast was hurriedly summoned on deck by the officer of the watch. The scene at the table was a lively one ; mutton cutlets seemed to be endued with wonderful locomotive powers, while ham and eggs had a very exciting waltz round the dish. A faint scream from one of the ladies proclaimed the deposition of' a cup 9f tea in her lap, while, at the same instant, a smothered blessing £.om one of the gentlemen announced the arrival of a plate of curried fowl in his waistcoat-pockets. Little Miss Stevens, who, with napkin pinned below her chin, was prepared to comfort her inner man (or woman, which?) with some Irish stew, very suddenly disappeared from view, followed by her plate, and Irish stew and old maid were mingled in hopeless confusion. At the same time the lashings holding one of the chairs gave way, and, the steamer giving a more than usually violent lurch, the unfortunate occupant found himself in the lee scuppers struggling with Miss Stevens and her Irish stew in the vain hope of regaining the perpendicular. By this time the wind had increased to a gale, and the ominous howling through the , combined with the roar of the waves and the creaking of the bulkheads, made up a delightfitl chaos of sound. Poor Miss Stevens, after being carefully picked out of her breakfast by the steward, was seen no more that day, but was heard lamenting her fate at being on board a

"MAN 0 VERBOARD." vessel, the captain of which had so little respect for ladies as to permit such a scene at the breakfast-table. Fortescue and a 1f w other gentlemen-passengers made their way on deck, where the sight that met their gaze was truly grand. The waves, piled one upon another to a gigantic size, appeared to rush upon the vessel as she plunged through thei, burying her bows several feet deep in their white fragments, and almost stopping in her with the violence of the shock tons of water flooded the decks at each submergence, and the noble vessel, rising from the struggle, seemed to shake the deluge from her like a spaniel when leaving the water. The wind would ofttimes catch of the crest of some watery giant and hurl it in a of spray far to leeward; and at another some huge billow would be seen coming on like an avalanche, threatening to engulf our little vessel, when suddenly it would topple over and dissolve into a glorious cataract of foam, boiling with a roar like a miniature Niagara. Our vessel seemed to have discovered the secret of perpetual motion, for she at one time reared her so far out of the water as to show her fore-foot, and to a person standing on the bridge appeared to be impending over a watery abyss, and at another plunged into the trough, as though seeking to end her troubles in a watery grave. It was by no means an easy task for the best "shell-back " to keep his feet, for so sudden were the plunges that they fairly threw one up and then caught one again. The saloon was a chaos of passengers huddled down to the lee corners, and each working upon the other's fears as to the issue of the tempest. Those who had not yet recovered from their sea-sickness were by far the best off, for by remaining in their bunks they escaped the perils of broken limbs and scalded persons, which those who attempted a meal were necessarily exposed to. Suddenly a crash, followed by a loud cry of "Man overboard," roused every one to their feet; the jibboom, after being buried a * "A shell-back" is a sailor's nickname for an old seaman.

SPORT IN ASHANTI hundred times in the foam, at length snapped, and the foretopmast, losing its support, soon followed. As the spars went overboard, the boatswain, becoming entangled in the rope,, was dragged over the side, and, a huge billow falling on bo:-rd at the same time, all were horror-struck at the sight of the poor fellow hurried several yards from the vessel's side by the rush of wateri. The engines were at once stopped, and every effort made to save the unfortunate man, but without avail. Ilis shrieks and cries for help fell upon our ears as his death-knell, for to launch a boat was only to imperil the lives of a dozen others, who were only kept back from the rash but gallant attempt by the stern commands of the captain. Meanwhile the wreck of the jibboom drifted away from the ship, and a dozen men rushing up the rigging shrieked out to the drowning man to swim towards it; and, although their voices were drowned by the roar of the tempest, which appeared to almost blow the words down their throats again, their gestures appeared to have had the desired effect, for the bos'n, who was known to be an excellent swimmer, was seen struggling towards the . With eager eyes the crew, one and all, watch the progress of the race for life ; if he succeeds in reaching the spar be may be picked up, but if not he is hopelessly lost. With breathless faces crew and passengers wait for the dinouement. " Has he reached it? " "No, he is far from it. Stay, he rapidly nears the spar,-he touches it,- he clasps his arm round it," and as a deafening cheer, heard high above the roar of the tempest, floats far away to leeward, he raises his hand in answer. The engines are maiceuvred ahead and astern with extreme caution, for should one of the huge waves come upon us unprepared, it may send us to the bottom in a few moments. An eager crowd are gathered round the with life-buoys and life-lines, and as we near the bos'n, saved truly from the jaws of death, some are almost ready to leap overboard to hasten the rescue. At length the wrecked spar is close alongside, and the bos'n is lifted on deck with his face streaming with tears, while many a hardy weather-stained face is observed to be screwed Lip

DFCK QUOITS. into curious espressions as a tell-tale moisture in the eyes proclaims the inward struggle. The loss of our spars seemed to satisfy the fury of Boreas, for both wind and sea quickly fell, and within a few hours we were steaming at full speed, although the heaving waves still testified to the struggle in which they had been so recently engaged. The next few days were passed by the generality of the passengers as days are commonly passed at sea. We had favourable weather, and the ladies came gradually creeping up on deck as flies show themselves at the approach of spring. Fortescue, who had been almost as constantly on deck as if he bad been one of the officers, was busily engaged in manufacturing some wreaths of rope called grommets, with which to get up a game of deck quoits. Talk of croquet as being the game par excellence to bring about flirtation; it sinks into insignificance when compared to deck quoits. First there is the superintendence of the manufacture, the ladies being called upon to supply the scraps of scarlet, blue, or yellow ribbon with which to distinguish the quoits one from the other; next comes the game itself, the tees being merely chalked spots on the poop. Look at that young sylph going out to Madeira for the benefit of her health, as if rosy cheeks and a robust form did not give the lie direct to any insinuated illness. She takes bold of her quoit as if it were a muffin, and of course young Jones of the Buffs must set it right for her, employing a rather longer time in busying himself with her taper fingers than the requirements of the case would seem to demand; then the vessel gives a roll just as the dear creature throws the quoit, and, losing her balance, she staggers to leeward, there to be received in the arms of half-adozen young gentlemen at least. Truly, what with these little incidents, and the fact of Julia kissing Herbert, and Miss Grosvenor being kissed by Captain Somerville (their quoits I mean), deck quoits is a dan gerous game. Match-making mammas had better give up picnics and take to a sea voyage if they wish to get their daughters off their hands with the least amount of trbuble to themselves.

SPORT IN ASHANTI. About five o'clock one evening land was announced on the starboard bow, which our captain recognised as Porto Santo. To the uninitiated all that could be discerned was a heavy raincloud, and even to those who had been to sea before it required some amount of faith to believe in its existence. Miss Stevens for one was very sceptical on the subject, declaring her belief that the captain had lost his way and had only given out this news to prevent unpleasant questionings from the passengers. "She was not going to be landed upon any place which was evidently built up of fog." Later on, however, its peaks and valleys became distinctly visible, and we soon caught sight of the lighthouse at the eastern extremity of Madeira, which shed its solitary ray of light like a lone star for the guidance of the mariner. Rounding the point we soon passed the little hamlet where the first settlers of the island fixed their residence, and finally, just as the church clock was striking midnight, the deep of our signal-gun, echoing and reverberating from hill to bill, and the rattle of our cable announced our arrival in the roads of Funchal. Next morning I was awakened by Fortescue throwing a pillow at my and crying out, "Now then, old fellow, what on earth do you mean by sleeping here while so glorious a scene is spread out before us and only waiting for us to visit it? " "Ah! I thought the sight of Funchal would make you long to get ashore, Fortescue, but you must not expect to find everything couleur de rose as you seem to imagine." "Now don't damp a fellow's ardour in that way, Arthur,none of your cold blankets for me. Just turn out and let us get ashore in one of those gondola-looking affairs as soon as possible." In a short time after this conversation Fortescue and I were pacing the deck with a cup of coffee as a preparative towards the ramble we intended to take before breakfast. The town of Funchal lay terraced out before us with its white villas dotted here and there amid the woody groves from which the island. takes its name ; the clouds of night were gradually being drawn

FUNCHAL. upwards by the heat of the sun, and as they -alternately revealed and shut off some lovely vista in their gauzy veil, the landscape presented ever-varying features. Our steamer was surrounded by numbers of gaily-painted boats with high stems, stocked with live turtle, bananas, workboxes, feather-flowers, canary-birds, and other- articles; two or three boats were in the possession of urchins clothed only in cotton drawers, who eagerly requested the passengers to throw them a piece of silver "for dive, sir." "I wonder whether these urchins could catch a shilling before it reached the bottom," said Fortescue. "Aye, that they could, before it was five fathoms down," said I. "Well here goes for a trial of their diving prowess," said he, throwing a shilling into the middle of a group of four seminaked boys who were more clamorous than the rest. With a splash they all disappeared like a row of water-rats on the appearance of danger, and when the babbles had subsided we discovered them far below the surface struggling for the prize, which had been grasped by one of them, from whom the others were endeavouring to snatch the money. On arriving at the surface the successful diver exultingly showed us the shilling, when, to their unspeakable delight, I threw them another, which they quickly brought to light again. Coffee over, we prepared to go ashore. The moment we showed ourselves near the a general chorus of tawny boatmen in bad Portuguese and still worse English invited us to patronize their particular craft. Selecting one-to the disgust of all the others of course-we soon found ourselves run high upon the shingly beach, where, having satisfactorily concluded the wrangle inevitably concomitant with boat and cab-hiring, we started on our tour. We visited the fruit-market, where our appetites were enticed by heaps of delicious figs, pears, oranges, pineapples, and other delicacies, and where we were picked up by a " dragoman,"* who spied us out as sight-seers with the * An interpreter,-an Oriental title.

SPORT IN ASHANTI. perspicuity of his ciass. The church next claimed our attention, where a fine paitiug by Raphael arrested us for a moment, while its merits were explained for us by a priest who wore a hat shaped like a butcher's meat-tray. iFortescue was highly amused at the sleighs drawn by bullocks, and the streets being pavcd with round "cobbles" made the motion less rough than might be supposed, although, turn which way we would, we appeared to be always going up-hill. We saw several Portuguese ladies dressed in the elegant mantilla, besides others of nearly every nation of western Europe. We next visited the convent of Sa. Clara, and bought some of the featherflowers offered for sale, though what use we were to put them to was more than I could tell; and then, procuring a couple of horses, started for a ride, or rather climb, towards the interior. We soon passed the fort, which is defended by several cannon under the charge of the soldiers of His Most Faithful Majesty, and also by a glacis so thickly covered with prickly pear as to be practically impassable. Leaving this to the right we started off at a gallop up a hill so steep that, without having ref'erence to a clinoneter, respect for my veracity compels me to decline to mention the angle of inclination. Added to thje steepness of the path, our guides (burriquieros) hanging on to the tails of our horses must have made a gallop anything but a pleasure to our steeds, but they appeared rather to enjoy it than otherwise. A mile of this road, hedged in by high walls overhung with the most brilliant flowering plants, conducted us to the convent of Nossa Senhora do Monte at an altitude of 1900 feet above the sea. The church attached to this building is one of 1he most conspicuous objects from the sea, often appearing to be built in the clouds as the mists hover over the town far below. This convent is a favourite visiting-ground for passengers in the mail steamers, and the numerous broken bottles testified to their thirstiness. The view was magnificent; Funchal lay spread out before us like a panorama, with all its churches and buildings dwarfed by our elevated position. To the witsi of the bay the Ilhdo rock with its fortress stood out

THE PIRATES OF THE DESERTAS. conspicuously prominent, while beyond it the race-course appeared-the only level spot on the island. To the eastward lay the craggy ridges of the Desertas, the home of thousands of petrels, looking unspeakably desolate notwithstanding the golden glare with which their peaks were lit up, while far beyond to the south and west extending to the utmost verge was nothing but the calm sea, with a solitary outward-bound vessel to break the line of the horizon. The hirbour was studded with small craft, brigs, schooners, and such like, amidst which our steamer appeared a very leviathan, while the puffs of steam appearing at intervals from her sides showed that the cargo was being quickly landed, and the fleet of puny boats passing between her and the shore gave life to the scene. After enjoying this view for some little time, we turned into a little cottage, or venda, where, after begging a draught of wine, we turned our horses' heads and hastened on board the steamer, whose Blue Peter* had been flying some time. About noon, amidst the firing of cannon, we started again on our voyage, the irrepressible Miss Stevens being the last to leave, she being in mortal dread lest anything of her valuable property had been left behind. Gradually the heights of the Curralt appeared until the whole length of the island lay exposed to our view, with the white houses of Funchal in the centre close to thehorizon, and ere nightfall Madeira "the unconiquered" + had faded into a memory. At night, Fortescue, the chief officer, and myself were sioking in the gangway, when Mr. Harris asked us if we had ever heard the account of the pirates of the Desertas. We replied in the negative, when, clearing his throat, he began his yarn. * The Blue Peter is a white flag with a broad blue border which is hoisted at the fore-royal masthead as a signal that the vessel is about to . t The Curral is the upland portion of M1adeira. ++ Madeira is one of the few spots on the face of the earth which is entirely free from the curse of conquest. When first discovered there were no inhabitants to drive out or subjugate; the present inhabitants have an undisputed right to the soil, and this fact, combined with the climate, has doubtless contributed to form their peculiarly kind and peaceable character.

SPORT IN ASHANTI. "About the year 1805, one of the packet ships which traded between Lisbon and Madeira was nearing the island. Upon the occasion in question she had on board a considerable number of the sons and daughters of the insular gentry, amongst whom was a young lady who had gone to Lisbon to prepare her trousseau, intending to be married on her return. All had gone well, and the packet was in full sight from the towers of Funchal, when as she passed the greater Deserta, a pirato vessel, which had lain concealed, darted forth from its shadows and summoned her to surrender; the captain determined to save himself and those committed to his charge if possible, and, making all sail, steered straight for Funchal, which was fifteen miles distant. "The harbour was protected by several batteries mounting nearly two hundred guns, but at that distance they were per. fectly useless, and there was no man-of- war in the roadstead. to render assistance. Every one was on the tip-toe of expectationthe batteries were all manned,-the gunners stood match in hand by their loaded cannon, and the troops were placed under arms, but nothing further could be done. "The race was a tough one, but, in spite of the fire of his pursuer, the captain of the packet kept bravely on his course foi twelve miles until he reached the entrance to the bay of Funchal. Meantime the pirate had slowly caught up to his prey and, in order to make doubly sure, had tacked towards the shore, intending to cut her off by the manoeuvre, and just before coming within cannon-shot, she hove to and-waited for her prey. Imagine the agonizing excitement, the frenzied despair of that moment. There was the long-expected vessel with sons and daughters of the island on board, and there too was the greedy pirate calmly waiting to seize her right under the very guns of the fort. "But ' there is many a slip betwixt the cup and the lip, as was fully proved upon the present occasion, for, as the pirate stood on to run alongside the p:cket, a sudden squall split the and laid him helpless, while the gallant captain, crossing his path, soon found himself safe under the guns of the 'Lew rock,' as the Ilheo fortress is called by sailors."

TE NE IIFFE. "A capital yarn," said Fortescue ; " how I wish something of the kind could happen now; but in these humdrum days a pirate would have but little chance, although the 'Alabama' had so long a run." "Aye, but she would have soon been overhauled had the Yankees had a navy worth mentioning; and if she had been a regular pirate, burning every ship she came across, her career would not have lasted a week, for a British man-of-war would have been after her in a twinkling." "Very true; still it must have been very exciting for the pirates in full chase of some fine merchantman in a vessel that literally 'walked the waters like a thing of life.'q "So it must have been, but a sailor's life is all very well ashore by the side of a good fire with a glass of grog before you and a number of friends around to listen to your yarns. The reality is very different, and I question if the pirates really had the pleasurable emotions aboard the vessel which we feel when overhauling another in a friendly race. What is your opinion of the matter, Danvers ?" "Well, for my part, I quite agree with you, and think that if Fortescue had the power to transform himself into a pirate tomorrow morning, he would heartily repent it before noon. Depend upon it, we shall have enough adventure on 'the Coast' to satisfy even so keen a sportsman as himself." "Four bells, sir," said the quartermaster. "Make it so," said the mate. "You see we do not even let time get ahead of us aboard ship without permission." "So I see; nevertheless it is time to turn in, so good-night, Mr. Harris." At Good night, gentlemen." At ten o'clock the next morning the snow-capped peak of Teneriffe could be plainly discerned in mid air, as though supported on nothing, the horizon being as clear as possible beneath it. By noon, however, the shape of the island was distinctly visible, and at length, running close under the steep clitfp we rotinded the point, and found ourselves at Vera CrLiz.

SPORT 1N ASHAATI Fortescue had anxiously inquired of the captain whether there would be time to make the ascent, but as that was a matter of four days and the steamer was only going to stay as many hours, the attempt had to be abandoned. However, determined to lose no time, no sooner had the health-officer given us pratique than we tumbled into the first boat that offered, and soon found ourselves on the mole rendered famous by Nelson's attack. We were highly amused at the grotesque figures cut by the camels employed as beasts of burden on the mole, their long ungainly legs straddling over the path like those of a drunken man. As our time was limited, we strolled through the town towards the church, chaperoned by a native who, like all of his tribe, seemed to be able to let off descriptive sentences by the , utterly oblivious of stops or pauses between the words; the reader will know what I mean if he has ever suffered purgatory at the bands-or rather lips-of a beefeater at the Tower. Our purpose in visiting the- church was to see the flags taken from the English at the siege; these were carefully enclosed in glass-cases fixed securely some twenty feet above the floor, a precaution against a repetition of the attempt of two middies who, feeling themselves insulted by the sight of their national flag in the possession oF foreigners, made an unsuccessful raid upon them. The square was rendered picturesque by a small garden with a fish-pond in the centre, while the cool verandah of the English hotel was doubly inviting when contrasted with the glare out of doors. A signal gun from the steamer however warned us that our time had elapsed, and after purchasing a box of cigars, which Fortescue afterwards declared were stalks of asparagus and not tobacco, we made the best of our way to the steamer, and ere dusk were far on our way to the Gambia. We were now in the region of the trade winds, and our steamer aided by her slipped through the water at the rate of twelve knots. Flirtations with the two remaining ladies were carried on to an alarming

PLEA VING TH" LOG. extent, and had the stern Miss Stevens been on board she would perforce have been subjected to more attention from the gentlemen than she could have ever hoped for before. One of the passengers was always boasting of his nautical experience, giving his opinion upon every matter which cropped up. It was therefore determined by a few of us to take a little of the gilding off his gingerbread. One morning when the quartermaster was about to heave the log, the ship going about eleven knots, Fortescue asked the wiseacre, Evns, what he thought was her rate of sailing. "Oh ! about twelve I suppose," said he with his consequential drawl. "Twelve! I'll bet you a bottle of champagne she is not going eight." "Done. You can order it up at once, if you please." The quartermaster, who had been put up to the trick, thereupon hove the log* without putting in the toggle, and, the logship being therefore dragged along by the ship, instead of remaining stationary, only seven knots were run off the reel, and poor Evans lost the bet, much to his chagrin and our amusement. Upon another occasion, when he had been telling a group of passengers that he was going out to make a considerable fortune, the doctor, a dry old stick, quietly tipped him on the shoulder and said with a smile, "I'll tell you whdat, young man, it is a jolly good job for you that your breeches were made befre you had to earn the money for them, otherwise you would have gone bare-legged a long time." 0 Heaving the log is performed as follows :-A triangular piece of wood, called the log-ship, is so attached by lines to the log-line that when the toggle is fixed, it will remain upright in the water until it is pulled out. The resistance it offers to its being dragged throught he water is sufficient to unreel the log-line from the reel, and the faster the ship goes of course the more line 'will be unwound. The line is divided into lengths by knots, and the divisions are proportional to the number of seconds ran by a sand-glass, which is held by a boy, and turned when a white rag at some distance from the log-ship passes over the taffrail. As the time run by the glass is to an hour, so is the length between each knot to a nautical mile.

SPORT I_ ASHAN2TI The next day we were roused from luncheon by the second officer announcing that a large ship was approaching; we all went on deck and saw a fine clipper homeward bound, whose course would bring her close to us. Our ensign was run up, and in a few minutes our signal was answered, and then, although we were six miles apart, a conversation commenced through the medium of various-coloured flags and a vocabulary in which certain flags denoted certain sentences. There is something rather singular in a conversation between people perhaps twelve miles apart: the ship may be down upon the horizon, and her signal flags undistinguishable as such by the naked eye; by tle aid of the glass, however, all becomes plain, and the monotony of the voyage is very pleasantly broken by holding a communication with strange people after being cooped up with those on board your own ship for so long a time. "Four, nine, one, nought," said the captain as he looked through his glass at the stranger. "What ship is that ?" said the quartermaster without refering to the signal-book. "Run up our number, quartermaster," replied the captain. A series of flags were rapidly bent on and hoisted to our gaffend, while the captain, still looking through his glass, repeated slowly, " Second pendant, six, five, one, eight." "The 'Speedwell' of London, sir," said the quartermaster, referring to that number in the signal book. The ship having read our number hauled down her own, and then asked us where we were from and whither bound, how many days we were out, and wished us a prosperous voyage. Such indeed is the usual colloquy between passing vessels, though when opportunity is afforded a conversation of any length can be carried on. At length Cape Verd was rounded, and one fine mormng we were steaming up the broad estuary forming the mouth of the Gambia. As yet no land was to be seen, but a few scattered palm-trees indicated that it could not be very far off. "What is that curious object, captain ?" Baid one of the pas.

ARRIVAL IN YHE GAIBIA. sen gers pointing to a dark something which, bobbing up ana down, gave us no opportunity of forming an idea of its character. "Well, I should think most likely it is a nigger fisherman busy with his nets, but at this distance I cannot tell with certainty," said he. As we neared the mysterious object the captain's conjecture was fbund to be correct. The something resolved itself into a curiously-shaped canoe, cut out of a tree-log and rudely hollowed with an axe; two or three sticks were lashed across at intervals, forming thwarts, and upon one of these-squatting rather than sitting- was a veritable African, whose grizzled hair and tout ensemble brought Friday's father, of 'Robinson Crusoe' fame, vividly to our memories. He was picking out a few fish from a net, and another was discovered spread out by means of wooden floats. As we steamed by, he stayed his search for a few moments and stood up in his tottering vessel, thereby affording us an exhibition of gymnastics such as would have been the envy of many an athlete, for his frail craft was tossing about like a cork on the chopping waves. Soon the white walls of the hospital appeared, and in a few minutes we dropped our off the town of Bathurst, and were at once surrounded by a bevy of canoes and boats, while the jabbering of a hundred voices of the Uncle Sam persuasion created a veritable Babel. We here landed the two remaining ladies of our passengerlist and prepared to follow them ashore, although the prospect was not extraordinarily inviting. However, on landing, we strolled through the town, which consisted of one long street running parallel with the river, from which numerous lanes and alleys branched off. The houses were for the most part built of mud, with flat roofs and dark dingy dens for rooms, and the whole place had an appearance of dried-up desolation which was anything but cheering. Groups of naked children were revelling in the sand or foraging amongst heaps of decomposing vegetable matter for scraps of banana or cocoa-nut. After a visit

SPORT IN ASHAA1T. to the monument erected to the memory of the illustrious Mungo Park, we hailed a boatman and very gladly left the desolate shore for the civilized comfort of the steamer. Scarcely had we stepped on board ere we were assailed by a cadaverouslooking darkie who, hearing that we had come out on a hunting expedition, had brought a collection of parrots, monkeys, and lemurs for our inspection. "You buy monkey, massa? ". said he holding out a diminutive simiad, which testified to his disapprobation by making ferocious grabs at his captor's hands. "No, thank you." "This fine monkey, massa, too* much. He grow too big one time (at once), byme- by." Finding that his eulogiums were incapable of inducing us to purchase, he left the poop with disgust, his quadrumanous stock causing his exit to be a matter of difficulty by reason of their obstinate grabs at everything fixed or movable that came within their reach. Our decks were covered up by groups of women who were going down to S'4 Leone to sell palm-nuts. Seated on a huge jar, big enough to contain one of the forty thieves, with a loose cotton gown reaching to the ankles and a flaring bandana on her head, each lady of colour contemplated the scene, her faculties being sharpened by the fumes of a short black pipe stuck between her coriaceous lips. The jargon was fearful to hear, as the sable matrons talked in no subdued tones in their harsh voices about everybody and everything. At last the signal-gun for our departure was fired, and our decks being cleared in a summary manner by the quartermasters, aided by ropes-ends, we slowly steamed out of the river. As the shades of evening gathered round us, it was amusing to see our deck passengers preparing to turn in. Spreading a mat on the softest plankc, and producing a coloured cotton cloth from one of the huge bundles upon which they had been sitting, * ,Too " is the general superlative among all Africans.

S'A' LEONI'. they lay down, and after rolling the cloth round them, covering their faces as well as their bodies, until they resembled a group of mummies, a few minutes sufficed to consign them to the arms of Morpheus, and a chorus of snores in every possible key testified to the totality of their slumbers. Thirty-six hours afterwards we arrived in Sierra Leone, and our anchor was scarcely down ere we were boarded by a noisy crew of boatmen, bringing scarcely less noisy merchants. Fortescue and I were considerably amused at the airs assumed by these sable traders. One gentleman, radiant in a buff suit with patent-leather boots and a brilliant azure necktie, particularly attracted our attention. Rushing up the gangway ladder, jingling a showy watch-chain, he made his appearance on deck, and, seeing us close at hand, came up saying, "Ah! good- morning, gentlemen, glad to see you." "Good-morning," said Fortescue; and in an aside to me, "Well, the fellow seems to imagine we came out specially to visit him." " Oh!" said I, "this is nothing to what you will see when you get on shore: the S'a' Leone merchants are such grand fellows in their own ideas that civility to strangers is quite beneath their dignity." Meanwhile the object of our remarks had sauntered with a most conceited air towards the chief officer, and nodding to him said, " Now I want my merchandise at once, you Mr. Mate." "What are your marks and numbers? " " Oh! a package addressed to Napoleon Bonaparte Thompson, Esquire, and I want it at once." "Packages are in charge of the third officer," said Mr. Harris, turning on his heel in disgust at the man's insolent behaviour, while Napoleon Bonaparte Thompson, Esquire, somewhat crestfallen at the mate's treating him so coolly, went in quest of the third officer. Meanwhile several others of similar character had arrived on board, and by their manner seemed to imagine that their conde-

SPORT IN ASHAV TI scension in looking out for their own property was so great that the officers of the steamer ought to run anywhere to oblige them. Disgusted at such a display of ignorance, we prepared to go ashore. On landing, the criticising remarks of the bystanders were not by any means subdued, and right glad were we to get out of the noisy throng assembled round the jetty. "Which way shall we go, Arthur ?" said Fortescue. "Well, suppose we visit the fruit-market first, and then we will go on to the Kissy Road, where we shall perhaps be in time to see some of the traders from the interior." "Just as you please, only let us see something worth the trouble of walking through a sun like this." We found the market crowded with fruit-sellers and their customers, who haggled together over their oranges, pineapples, prickly pears, or other fruit 'ith all the vivacity of a Billingsgate fish-wife. Besides fruit, there were stalls radiant in ' Brummagem' jewellery and gaudy ribbons, prints, handkerchiefs, and other articles for decorating the persons of the sable belles of S'" Leone. The heat being stifling, whilst the odour of the fruit-stalls was overpowering, we started off down the Kissy Road, which is by far the most picturesque spot in the town. The houses on either side were of the better class, with bananas, mangoes, and other trees growing in their gardens, and the wide pathways being shaded by a row of lime-trees on the side nearest the roadway, the walk was very pleasant. Passing the battery at the mouth of the river, a walk of half an hour brought us to the river-side. Although we were somewhat late in the day, still a busy scene was displayed before us, which amply compensated for the fatigues of the walk. A numnber of canoes were drawn up on the bank, from which the owners were bringing various articles for sale; some of these were the production of the Limba or Soolima countries in the far interior, and at once attracted our attention. Work- baskets, bags, tobacco-pouches, and similar articles, curiously wrought out of grass dyed in several colours; boxes for ever)" conceivable THE MARKET-PLA CE. use carved in rude figures of birds, beasts, or fishes ; and sandals. beautifully stitched in white, black, and yellow leather, were seen on every side. A loud chattering proclaimed the presence of the vendor o live animals, parrots, love-birds, and monkeys being the predominant species; some sold beautifully tanned hides, the skins of goats and oxen, besides a few of the lion and leopard. Quivers, saddles of the curious Moorish shape, hats, dye-woods, ebony, bar- wood, feathers, fruit, weapons, such as bows, arrows, javelins, and spears-in fact, articles of every description were here seen exposed for sale. Nor were the specimens of the genus homo deficient in their varieties; the Senegal conversed with the Houssa, while the Soolima dye-wood gatherer was busily engaged in a discussion with a Feloop. Arabic was the medium of communication in nearly every instance, though a person who could speak four or five languages was by no means an exceptional case. These various commodities were brought down in exchange for European goods, such as cutlery, bale goods, gunpowder, and firearms. "What is that fearful smell, Arthur? " said Fortescue as we passed through the market. "Ohl it is only dried fish; you should go through the fishmarket near the harbour; the perfume is enough to knock you down, for the fish is often left to putrefy by the lazy vendors, and the officials seem to have no olfactory nerves. We made a few purchases of fans composed of the gaudy feathers of the parrot tribe, and boxes and bags as souvenirs of our visit, and after strolling round the busy scene for two hours, made our way back again to the harbour, where we arrived about seven o'clock, our steamer presenting a gay spectacle by reason of the many lights in her saloon, which shone over the calm waters of the bay in rippling lines of light. The squabbles of the merchants and their clerks with the crew were by no means appeased; compliments flowed fast and freely between the disputants, and when we turned in at a late hour the boatmen hanging on astern were holding a sharp con-

SPORT IN ASHANTI. troversy over the difficult question of the division of two shillings among five of them. However, even S'4 Leone squabbles have an end, and at ten o'clock the next morning our anchor was hove up, and we steamed out past the lighthouse en rout8 for Cape Palmas. Every morning we were accustomed to indulge in a showerbath whilst the decks were being washed down. The hose was fixed overhead and the nozzle being unscrewed, a first-rate douche-bath was improvised in a few minutes; the water, pumped up by the "donkey," rushed out as if from the hose of a fire-engine, and it created no small amusemnent to direct the jet against any one who was unsuspicious of such an assault; the solid column of water struck with such force that not unfrequently the honoured individual measured his length on the deck. Talk of shampooing and a Turkish bath, they are mere child's play when compared to a steam-bath at sea Off Grand Sesters we stopped for a short time to allow any Kroo-boys who might be willing to engage themselves for a term of servitude to come on board; long before we arrived opposite the town we could see the canoes putting off, and by the time the curious conical-roofed houses were abeam more than a hundred dug- outs were alongside. Our steamer was literally taken by storm as the sable imps swarmed on board, each with a chest no larger than an ordinary writing-desk, which contained his all. The captain, who was anxiously looking out for one of the chiefs, at length pointed him out to us. Directed by his gestures, we observed a curious apparition seated in the middle of a canoe of somewhat larger dimensions than the others. This singular being was dressed in a scarlet flannel shirt, a white waistcoat, a cheesecutter cap with a gold band, and no trousers. On coming alongside he called out, " Maunin, capt'n, I look you again." "How are you, iNimbley?" said the commander with a friendly nod to his sable acquaintance. "I don't be Nimbley this time, capt'n, i be Thomas Nimbley, Esquire."

TIOAJfS i/IBLEY, ESQ UIRE. " Very well, Thomas Nimbley, Esquire, have you got plenty of boys this time ? " "Plenty thjis time, for true, but-" and here it was amusing to see him go through the pantomime of uncorking a bottle and drinking the contents. ' What for you want rum before you make trade ?" said the captain, smiling at his actions. "Trade no good if man be dry; 'sides, what for you no drink black man's bealt'? " Laughing heartily at this sally the captain called the steward, who, apparently well knowing what was coming, made his appearance with a bottle of rum. How the old sinner's eyes glistened at the sight of the spirits! It would have broken the hearts of a whole regiment of Good Templars to see with what relish Thonas Nimbley, Esquire, poured half the contents of the bottle down his capacious throat. "Ah! that be good, for true. Now, capt'n, we make trade- palaver." Thereupon Mr. Ninibley and the captain entered into a conversatio,.in the singular English which obtains along the whole coast, and a specimen of which has been given above. The result of the colloquy was that eighty stalwart Kroomen were engaged as labourers by the captain as agent for the merchants to leeward, and Thomas Nimbley, Esquire, agreed to accompany them to keep order, otherwise there would be no end of quarrels among them; indeed, a loud bellowing on the had already set up, on account of one of the unengaged niggers venting his spleen on the person of a luckier man and brother, through the medium of a paddle. Up jumped Mr. Nimbley, tearing along the deck, his naked feet being apparently oblivious of such trifles as lumps of coal, iron boops, nails, and other similar 9upedirnenta which thickly bestrewed the gangway, where the coal- trimmers were transhipping some coal from the forehold to the bunkers. After leaving Grand Sesters, a few hours' steam brought us to Cape Palmas, with its conspicuous lighthouse perched amid the

SPORT IN ASHANTI trees of the promontory. As we were only to stay a few hours, and the weather was by no means promising, we did not go ashore, but endeavoured to drive away ennui by shooting at, and in most cases missing, some aquatic birds which were busily engaged fishing near us. While on the look-out for a fresh target, one of the quartermasters observed the pointed fin of a shark sticking up above the water as its owner cruised around for prey. The cry, "A shark, a shark!" flew quickly from mouth to mouth, and the bos'n made his appearaDce, armed with a monstrous hook baited with a four-pound lump of salt pork; attached to the hook was about two feet of chain with a swivel in the centre, and a strong line being bent on, the tempting bait was cast overboard. The splash sent the timid creature scurrying off a hundred yards; but curiosity, aided by a hungry stomach, obtained the mastery over its fears, and we soon observed the tell-tale fin slowly but surely approaching. From our elevated position we could see the monster, with his long fins slowly moving, as he eyed the bait with greedy looks, while three of the small pilot fish, which so strangely accompany this finny pirate, were reconnoitring the book, and swimming between it and the shark, as though conveying reports as to its appetising qualities. The messages appeared to be encouraging, for the shark approached still nearer, until we were on the tip-toe of expectation at the speedy prospect of hooking him. "There, he has it!" shouted one of the passengers, as he excitedly leaped on the stern gratings. This was enough to alarm a hundred sharks, and our intended victim made a sheer off as though the pork had been redhot. The bos'n muttered a smothered blessing upon the foolery of land lubbers, and gave the unlucky passenger a look which ought to have had the effect of a Gorgon's upon him. "Here he comes again!" said a chorus of voices, heedless of the bos'n's request for silence.

"SHARKS." The shark appeared to be bent upon making short work of it at last, for he came up boldly. "We'll have him this time," said Fortescue, who with loaded gun was prepared to give the coup de grdce as soon as he was booked. "Don't be too sure, sir," said the bos'n, pointing to the fin, which appeared stationary some five yards away from the hook. "I'll bet a bottle of wine you don't get him, bos'n," said the passenger who bad frightened the shark in the first instance. "Done!" said I, speaking for the bos'n, who had caught a glimpse of the white belly of the shark as it made a dash at the meat. "Not this time again, sir," said he, as the timid fish sheered off a third time. Then once again he came close to the bait, and lifting his flat snout above the meat, appeared to have it inside his mouth, while the bos'n stood ready to strike. But he was still shy; and four times did he serve us this trick, taking the meat into his jaws, and then ejecting it ere we had time to strike. "At last, at last! Hold on! " shouted the bos'n, and looking over the taffrail we saw the shark was indeed hooked, and was floundering about in a manner calculated either to tear the hook out of his jaws, or snap the line. The use of the swivel was then abundantly evident, for so swiftly did the shark spin round, that the line must have parted had its turns not been nullified by the swivel. We all tailed lustily on to the rope, while Fortescue sent a ball through the fish which somewhat quieted its struggles; but still it was a good pull for five of us to drag the monster out of the water. At last we had his jaws up to the taffrail, and even then his tail nearly touched the water as the steamer heaved on the ground-swell. "A bowline, look alive there!" said the bos'n One of the sailors quickly made a noose round the line, and slipping it down over the shark's fins, our prey was secured, and a few hauls safely landed it on deck. "" Look out for your legs!" said Fortescue, giving a sudden

SPORT IN ASH-AATI. leap to the right, as the powerful tail of the shark made a sweep in his direction. Scarcely were the words out of his mouth than .the excited passenger was nicely floored by the floundering shark, amidst a roar of laughter which did not in the least improve his temper. "Drag him down on the main deck," shouted the bos'n, as the tail dealt fearful blows on the poop, as if it would stave the deck in. One of the crew came running up with a handspike to thrust in the creature's moutb, as the fearful jaws made savage grabs at everything, while another appeared on the scene armed with the carpenter's axe wherewith to detail the fish. " Well, this is fishing with a vengeance," said Fortescue; "rather more exciting than sitting all day by the side of a stream catching half a pound of dace as the result of eight hours' patient watching." "Look out for yourselves," said the bos'n as the shark floundered down the poop ladder, and, having gained momentum by the descent, shot several yards along the deck, finally bringing up against the go-ashore bundles of some half-a-dozen negresses, one of" which it grabbed at a mouthful. "That's the last meal you'll have, my hearty," said the bos'n, as with a dexterous stroke he severed the tail. Gradually the struggles of the fish became weaker, 'and the bundle of clothes appearing to satisfy its appetite for the time being, the bandspike was inserted in the jaws, which bit at it with a crunch which would have made short work of a man's arm. The crew quickly began the work of cutting up, and knowing that Fortescue had never eaten shark, I told the cook to secure one of the tail pieces and serve it up at dinner. "You will like the jaws, will you not, Mr. Fortescue P" said the bos'n. "If you please. Will you see to the cleaning of them ?" "Certainly, sir. I'll get 'em cleaned in a jiffy." "Would you like the busk?" said one of the sailors. "The what ?" said Fortescue.

C4 UGHT AT LAST "The busk. Here's a woman's busk," indicating the head by a tap of his knife. Laughing at Fortescue's confusion, I told him that the skull of a shark had a remarkably close resemblance to the bust of a woman. "Oh ! that is what the fellow means by the busk, is it?" said he smiling. "Yes, sir, the busk, and this is a fine one." "Very well, clean it for me; and ask the steward for wherewith to drink my health this evening." "Aye, aye, sir!" sang out a chorus ; and certainly a bottle of grog judiciously bestowed will work miracles in more places than on board ship. As we leaned over the taffrail that evening, watching the phosphorescent water as it gurgled round our , and was sent far astern in luminous eddies by our screw, the conversation turned upon sharks. "Did you ever see a shark before, Fortescue ?" said I. "Oh, yes! but they were of a different order, and usually of cannibal propensities." "I suppose you mean land sharks," said one of the passengers. "Yes. But I have seen sea sharks of a like nature besides." "I once was outward-bouna for Australia," began the mate, "and among a hundred passengers there was one who, from the day we left Gravesend, had attracted considerable notice to himself. He was a middle-aged man (a celebrated naturalist, I believe), very quiet in his behaviour to his fellow-voyagers; but his peculiar characteristic was his extreme short-sightedness It was most painful to see him examining anything without his glasses. So close did he hold the object to his eye, that one of the sailors suggested that he ought to look out of the back of his head, and thus get at the other side of his eye. This semi-blind man had but a single pair of spectacles on board, and being of a very nervous temperament, his peace of mind was being continually disturbed by the thought that if he lost his glasses he

SPORT IN ASHANTI. would be obliged to confine himself to his cabin for the remainder of the voyage, as it would be impossible for him to walk about without falling down the hatches, or maybe overboard. These fears were by no means allayed by his companions, who seemed to delight in working up the old man's imagination upon the horrors of blindness, so that his life on board was not one of uininterrupted bliss; all simply because he had omitted to procure an pair of glasses before leaving England." "Ab," said Fortescue with a grin ; "I can just imagine the sort of cove you allude to. A regular beetleopterist with threadbare coat, unkempt locks, and his finger- ends like the of a thimble from his frequent use of them to pin coleopetra. His eyes are his salient feature. Seen through his spectacles, they glare at you like those of a Gorgon or a hungry cuttle-fish; while, when examining the eyelashes of a cockroach or other entomological curiosity, the barnacles are pushed up on his forehead, and the precious treasure nearly poked into the bursting optic." "Bravo, Fortescue!" said the mate; "you have just hit the old fellow off to a T. If you were going down the poop-ladder, and met old Carabus coming up, it always seemed to be the personification of what one would see if he were ever to catch a fullgrown plaice in a passion. At the first glance a ferocious monster, but on a closer inspection, the Gorgon dwindles down to a harmless bug-hunter." "Well, you don't appear to have very great reverence for entomologists." "i'll tell you what, Mr. iFortescue," said the mate; "if some entomologist would make a hunting-ground of my bunk, it would be conferring a blessing upon your humble servant; for, you know, we took out a lot of sugar last voyage, and the result is that the ship swarms with cockroaches, and they appear to hold a debating society in my berth. So long as they keep out of my mouth, they are quite at liberty to wander over the rest of my body; but if one is dreaming of mellow pears, or some such luxury, and in the excitement of the moment shuts one's mouth,

11 OLD CARAB US." and. instead of the pear there is only a leathery cockroach io meet one's teeth through ;-well, it's not the bcst substitute, to say the least of it." "Why don't you invest in a jar of Hester's Magic Paste, which will kill everything living under the sun if you are to believe the proprietor ? " "Why, I've tried everything I could think of, and the varmint only seem to thrive on it." " Oh! cockroaches are very jolly in their way; but get on with the yarn, Mr. Harris." "Well, the old beetle-hunter was very careful not to endanger his glasses, keeping in the middle of the deck, and evidently iu mortal terror lest they should be broken. One morning a fine shark was seen cruising round the ship, and the cry was raised. Carried away by his enthusiasm, old Carabus made a rush to the stern, and bringing up with a jerk against the taffrail, off dropped the gold spectacles, which were instantly grabbed by John Shark, who, apparently satisfied with so luscious a morsel, took his departure. The old fellow's state of mind was fearful to contemplate. He lay in his bunk crying like a child, until his eyes were red and swollen, and looked like those of a freshly boiled lobster. For three days he lay inconsolable, when another shark was seen cruising round, and preparations were made to catch him. After several ineffectual attempts he was hooked, and being hauled on board, proved to be a fine fellow, sixteen feet long. All the passengers crowded round to see his maw opened, when amidst a miscellaneous collection of fish, rope-yarns, and pork-fat, something glittering was observed. On its being taken out, to our utmost surprise we discovered the spectacles of the bug-hunter, and one of his comrades rushed down below to apprise him of the welcome discovery. From that day old Carabus was convalescent, but he kept clear of the taffrail for the rest of the voyage, although we caught several sharks after that." "You don't mean to vouch for the truth of that story, (re you?" said I. SPORT IV ASiIANTl "It is quite true. The shark we caught was the one we had seen three days previously, which had snapped up the spectacles wbhen they slipped off the old gentleman's nose." "Well, of all the yarns I ever heard respecting sharks, that carries off the palm." ":Nevertheless, it is a fact; but there goes four bells, and I must see to the relief of the wheel and look-out, so good-night, gentlemen." By daylight next morning the low-lying trees which border the lagoon at Grand Bassam were just visible above the horizon, and as eight o'clock struck, our anchor was dropped off Assinee, where our journey was to end. Assinee did not appear to be a very lively spot, to judge of it from the anchorage. A few huts stretching along the bright sandy beach for more than a mile, with two factories of more pretensions to architectural beauty at the eastern end, xere all that we could see, the town itself lying on the north side of the lagoon. "1 cannot congratulate you on the appearance of our port of destination, Arthur," said ]Fortescue rather dolefully. "Certainly it is not a very jolly-looking place, but if you are in search of adventure you will get plenty of it here. To begin with, the surf which beats along the whole coast is perhaps worse here than anywhere within ten miles, and if you are capsized there are plenty of sharks to take you in out of the wet." "A nice alternative, certainly; either to be drowned or make a meal for one of those monsters. Here comes a boat, we shall soon hear news." As he spoke we observed a surf-boat, or canoe as they are here called, putting off for the steamer. It was manned by twelve sturdy negroes, with a bos'n in the stern steering by means of a long oar. The foreshortened appearance of their paddles as they dipped them into the water was very curious, the canoe and its occupants looking like some monster walking over the'waves. Presently their song became audible, being a mono. tonous chant, interlarded with a series of hisses, ( la stable- boy,

AR.! VAL AT A SSINEE. as some excited canoeman sent the water flying astern in a shower of silvery spray. On coming alongside the bos'n called out, "Maunin' capt'n," and in a few minutes he stood before us, dressed in a rag tied round his waist, and a dilapidated straw hat of enormous size, with a clay pipe stuck, for convenience of carriage, through the crown. "Well, Coffee Pot," said the captain, "how is the sea ? "Sea too full* this time, sar; byme-by it live for be better." His crew, all got up as elaborately as himself, had already made themselves comfortable round the ship's galley, where the cook was vainly endeavouring to preserve order by a vigorous application of blows from a monstrous pea-soup ladle, aided by very strong adjectives. "We shall stop here two hours," said the captain. "You had better send your traps ashore first, and land yourselves in the last boat, for a capsize here is no joke." "So I should think, judging from the diameter of the bos'n's headgear," said Fortescue, making a barbarous attempt at a pun. " Come, come, Fortescue, that is too bad, you know; we can't tolerate such stuff as that here for a single instant.""Oh! I suppose the malaria begins to affect one's brain already, otherwise I should not have been so guilty" Richards and Stuart were busily engaged in bringing up our luggage (or plunder as our American cousins would call it, I suppose), which was consigned to the care of the boatmen with some difficulty, for our steamer was rolling from side to side in a terrific manner, and our boxes were in imminent danger of either being smashed against the ship's side, or of crushing in the heads of some of the boatmen, although the mate said that their heads were little softer than the ship itself. At last, however, our time was up, and after a parting bottle with the captain, we took our stations in the surf boat. Fortescue, with some dignity, was comfortably seating himself in the stern * High tide; the surf is generally higher at higi wavr.

SPORT IN ASHANTI. sheets, when I said, "If you have any respect for dry clothing you will come here at the bow." "What for? I've no desire to distinguish myself as a foc'l1 hand." " Well, take my advice this time, and if you like to sit in the stern afterwards, you may, for all I care." A ccordingly, clambering over the pile of personals both animate and inanimate, he seated himself by my side, and then shoving off from the steamer we began the perilous voyage. After two or three strokes one of the canoemen struck up the ditty, "Sun fire no burn me," which was taken up by his companions in a very droning manner. " No, I should think sun fire could not burn you any blacker if it tried," said Fortescue with a grin. On nearing the outer breakers the swell considerably increased, and hill and dale of dirty greenish water rapidly succeeded each other. The chorus had by this time almost wearied us by its monotony, its sole harmony lying in the difference of the voices, which really went very well together in a sing-song, and when one's back was turned was endurable; but when we looked at one of the performers, our feelings were somewhat modified at the sight of the vocalist distorting his face into those hideous grimaces which can only be attained by a negro or a child's indiarubber doll. "Now comes the tug of war," said I, as the bos'n ordered his crew to cease paddling, and he scanned each roller as it came on with anxious eye. "I should think a fellow would have a poor chance if he fell overboard here," said Fortescue, as a huge shark glided by, eyeing us with a malicious look. "Not much, but still every capsize is not fatal, especially if the canoemen are induced to assist you by the prospect of a few dollars on landing." The boat after having been kept stationary by back strokes of the paddles, which thus caused each roller to run under us, was at length urged forward upon the back of an enormous billow,

GOING ASHORE. which the experienced eye of the bos'n selected as one of the least dangerous to struggle with. As we rose on its back the canoe was urged forward by vigorous strokes, and the canoemen were kept up to their work by the excited shouts of the bos'n, with whom we could scarcely help joining as the huge billow, piled up into an almost vertical wall of water, seemed to curl over as if about to precipitate us into the watery abyss ahead. "Look out, Fortescue," shouted I amidst the rush of water, as the canoe, tossed on one side by the briny avalanche, was nearly overset; but, thanks to the skill of our steersman, she kept before it and in a few minutes we had passed the breaker. With a shock, as if every timber in the boat were broken, the bow struck the sand, and the beachmen, who had crowded down to the water's edge, seized hold of us much to Fortescue's surprise, and carried us beyond the reach of the succeeding wave, which tossed the lightened boat several feet higher up the steep beach to the immense peril of the legs of the canoemen. Ere we had advanced a dozen steps the succeeding rollers had dashed over the stern of the boat, deluging our boxes with its fragments. "I see now why you sit in the bow of a surf-boat when going ashore," said Fortescue, "but do you know why that roller reminds me of a fashionably dressed quill-driver ?" "No, I give up your conundrum. Wherever lies the resemblance ?" "Because it is a heavy swell." "Horrible," said I with a laugh, "but let us get out of the sun." "Here we are at last, old fellow," said Fortescue, shaking the loose sand out of his shoes when we reached the boat-shed on the beach. "Yes, and one can hardly realize the fact, it seems so short a time since we first proposed coming out to Africa." "Those were my very thoughts; but who is this swell coming towards us "

SPORT IN ASHANT. As he spoke a well-dressed negro was seen advancing towards us, who proved to be the agent of the English factory with whom we were to remain as guests until we started for the bush. "Welcome to Africa, gentlemen," said he, raising his broadbrimmed straw hat with a polite bow. "Thanks for your pleasant reception ;" said I, "I hope we shall get along as well as we have commenced." Meanwhile Richards and Stuart were having high words with the beachmen in the vain endeavour to save our traps from a wetting. "Here, you black son of a gun," said Richards, "freeze on to this box and take it up to the factory." "What for man vexed?" said the black, astonished at such language, and making not the slightest effort to remove the box. " I shall be vexed in earnest if you don't stir yourself," was the rejoinder, accompanied by a vigorous thump on the back of the beachman. "Richards appears to be in his element," said I, pointing to that individual. "0! yes, so long as he can get other people to do his work he is all right, but I am afraid if he were to exchange places with the beachmen all his alacrity would evaporate; but so long as he can get the people to work he is at liberty to be as idle as he pleases for aught I care." We were soon enjoying a substantial breakfast, truly African in its get up, consisting of fowls stewed in palm-oil, roast leg of goat, maize fufu,* and yams. The first thing we did after satisfying our appetites was to look after our luggage and to ask Mr. Williams, the agent, as to the capabilities of the town to afford us carriers and guides. "As to carriers," said he, "there are plenty to be had, but I will not guarantee their faithfulness unless they are ruled by a strong hand, for a greater set of vagabonds never lived than the * Fufu is a kind of dumpling. The mashed potato of Africa.

A BOY IN PA UA/ Fantees. With respect to a guide, there is a fellow here who has lived at Andamawa for several years, who is a professed hunter, and who would no doubt be willing to accompany you for a consideration." "So long as he is a trustworthy fellow that is all we require; but when can we see this sable Nimrod." "I will send for him at once. Here, Sacki," said he, calling to a half-naked urchin who was passing at the moment. "Go and tell Aziza to come here at once." Off went Sacki at full speed, and, jumping into the nearest canoe, was soon paddling across the lagoon to fetch the hunter from the town, for the principal part of Assinee is on the nort! side of the lagoon. "A smart boy that," said I; "is he in your service?" "He is a pawn," said Williams. "A pawn! Do you mean to tell me that the wretched people here actually pledge their children for goods?" said Fortescue horror struck. "Oh! yes, it is often done. A man will come down to the factory and purchase a quantity of goods, leaving one of his children as security for the payment thereof. Saicki was pawned to me four years ago, and as his father seems to be as faroff solvency as ever, the probability is that he will remain in pawn all his life." "How much is he a pledge for?" "Seven dollars and a half." "Well," said Fortescue, "if I pay the money, will you permit him to accompany me as a servant ?" "With pleasure. I have little use for him at the factory, and he is a sharp lad if you treat him with sufficient strictness, but if you leave him to himself, he will sleep all day and night." "The old tale again. You must actually drive the people if you wish to get any work out of them." "It has always been so, and the more you know of the people the better will the truth of that tale be impressed upon you."

SPORT IN ASRANTI. "Here comes our hunter," said Fortescue, pointing to a stalwart fellow who at that moment entered the factory-yard. Our first impressions of our chief hunter were favourable, and upon further acquaintance with him we had no reason to regret our choice. A perfect giant in form, Aziza stood nearly six feet eight on his bare feet. A lion in name,* his nature by no means belied his cognomen, for his equal in strength and courage we never met with on the coast. He was originally from Alomba, a country north of Ashanti. The son of a chief, he was captured in early youth in one of the bloody feuds which were of frequent occurrence between his country and Ashanti. A lifetime spent in Ashanti had almost naturalised him to his captors; yet there still yearned in his heart a longing to return to his native land, but the opportunity had never offered itself Aziza was now in the prime of his manhood, being about forty years of age. His courage was the theme of many a fireside song, while his feats of strength were truly marvellous. he could take any ordinary sized man and throw him up several feet into the air, or swing him round at arms' length. A cask of oil weighing four hundred weight was a mere plaything, while, when returning from the chase, it was no unusual thing to see the carcase of a three-year-old bullock upon his brawny shoulders. Indeed, there was a well authenticated instance of his having single handed hooked and landed an alligator thirteen feet long, whose struggles were helpless against the Herculean strength of his captor. He was dressed in a toga of blue baft,t with a cap of leopard skin ornamented with the claws of the same animal perched jauntily on one side of his head, while he carried an immense knife stuck into a broad sash which encircled his waist. "These gentlemen," said Williams, addressing the hunter, "are going into the bush to hunt and collect birds and insects, * Aziza means a lion in the Alomba language. t A thin cotton fabric much used on the West Coast.

AZIZA, THE LION-HEARTED. and are anxious for you to accompany them. What do you say on the palaver ?" "Mr. Williams is very kind to think of Aziza, who is a great hunter. lHe has killed many lions, elephants, and such creatures, but his gun has never been turned towards birds, and of insects he knows nothing. Great hunters despise such puny game. Aziza cannot stoop to hunt beetles." "Nor do we wish you to degrade yourself in your own estimation by so doing. We are anxious to secure your services as a guide into the country, and to conduct us to the best huntinggrounds." "Who knows the haunts of the elephant or the leopard better than I do ? I shall be glad to lead my white friends to the bush, for I am anxious to leave the towns. Aziza's fetiche is not good while lie remains away from the forest." "We shall start as soon as we can obtain carriers. Can you render us any assistance ?" "Aziza is a poor man," said the hunter with a frown, "had you asked a thousand carriers from his father he would have given them, but his son has to be content with a single helpmate. Nevertheless, he knows some Alombas who were taken when he was, who still recognise him as the son of their chief, and who will do his bidding." "Well, briDg as many as you can to-morrow. Meanwhile, take ten pieces of cloth from the factory as an engagement fee from us.', "My masters are too* good. When the elephant is rushing upon them with uplifted trunk Aziza's gun will be ready in their defence." Thanks to the energetic efforts of Mr. Williams, and the powerful stimulus of a little ready cash, by the time we were prepared with our packages of cloth, beads, and powder, sixty-five powerful carriers had been collected, which, added * Among English speaking Africans the expression "too" is genevally used instead of very.

40 SPOR T IN ASHA NTI to the Alombas under Aziza, swelled our company to nearly eighty. The task of fitting out an expedition is an arduous one. In spite of our forethought in London there still remained many things which were necessary for our comfort. The great difficulty was to take enough, and yet not to overload ourselves. Guns had to be provided for the defenders of our property, cloth and rum "dashed"* to the carriers wherewith to hold a previous to our setting out; but after a week of incessant worry we prepared to start at daybreak one fine morning in March. 0 A. dash is a present.

CHAPTER ITI. ITART FOR KINJABO-RIVER SCENEPY-AZIZA'S ADVENTURE WITH AN ALLIGATOR-KING AMOOTAFOO-MELINDA THE ASHANTEE CIIIEFOFF AGA N-A NIGHT ATTACK. WE@ were roused from our comfortable beds at four o'clock by Sacki bringing a lamp into our bedrooms, and the fragrant smell of coffee induced us to spring out at once and prepare to do justice to the early breakfast which had been set out for us by Mrs. Williams. Of course it was still diark as pitch, and the land breeze bad just commenced to blow. Early as it was two immense canoes had already started for Kinjabo, a large town some thirty miles up the lagoon, where our journey was to commence in reality. After a substantial meal Fortescue and I went down to the lagoon side, where a busy scene met our eyes. Groups of women and children were gathered round our canoes, jabbering, crying, singing, and swearing, helping, or rather hindering, the loading of the boats. Here a sturdy hunter-was seen bidding farewell to his last married wife, a girl not more than fifteen years of age, the adieux being by no means of a demonstrative character. There a creditor had seized upon a debtor, and was endeavouring to extort

SPORT 12V ASHANTI immediate payment. The pitch of the African voice is by no means pleasant at the best of times, and when raised by excitement it grates harshly upon the civilised ear. This, combined with the peculiar fwtor of the negro, render the proximity of a struggling crowd anything but a desideratum. However, all our goods were at length placed on board our canoes, and taking our seats under an awning which had been thoughtfully provided by Mr. Williams, we gave the order to shove off, and were at last actually started on our journey. Our boat was the pilot of our little fleet, and contained, besides the white members of the expedition, Aziza, Sacki, and two other boys* who we bad engaged as cooks. Lucky shall we be if we can always provide them wherewithal to exercise their culinary talents. As we slowly paddled along the dark river the parting shouts of our friends on the beach gradually became fainter and fainter, and at last were heard no more, and we truly felt that we had left the last vestige of civilization behind us. Who amongst us could say that he should return to those from whom he was parted? Would Fortescue, that noble specimen of England's noble sons, succumb to fever, the poisoned draught, or the savage beasts' assault? Will Aziza, our stout-hearted guide, return to his adopted home in all the glory of his strength, or will be come back the wreck of what he once was, his stalwart limbs lacerated at last by the fangs of the cruel beasts whom he has so often defied in mortal combat? For a time all were silent. Even the taciturn, apathetic negroes felt that peculiar downheartedness which ever accompanies the parting from our friends, even though we are bent upon an errand upon which our whole thoughts have been engrossed for months past. Fortescue and I sat smoking our cigars, each communing with his own thoughts, when the spell was broken by a splash on By boys we do not necessarily mean youths, since every servant is generally called a "boy,"

RIVER SCENERY. our left, and a cry from the boatmen of "nsiva "-" alligator "roused us. The giant saurian was plainly seen swimming across the river, his back presenting at this distance no vulnerable spot wherein to plant a bullet. The dark gloomy forest could be dimly seen looming still blacker against the sable sky, while myriad stars twinkled above us, the glorious southern cross gleaming out conspicuously on our right. Not a sound broke the stillness save the splash of the paddles or the remark of a boatman uttered with bated breath. "What a gloomy scene an African river presents a' night!" said I "It is positively awful," said Fortescue, "and seems to have a depressing influence upon all of us. I shall be heartily glad when the sun again shows himself, and raises one's spirits, for we might be upon the Styx for aught we can see." "You will not have to wait long, for there is the first indication of his return," said I, pointing to a thin grey streak which showed out amongst the tree-tops. "Hurrah! so there is; and now let us have a look around us." With that rapidity with which daylight and darkness succeed each other in the tropics, ere a few minutes had passed the sun had reached the horizon, and was pouring a flood of light upon us. The mists hanging over the river were gradually dispersed, and the animal creation began their matins. "There go a flock of grey parrots," said I, pointing overhead to a number of them which were flying screaming across. "By Jove! what would some of the good folks in England say if they heard the fearful row their pets kick up when at home. I'll send a shot among them; they must be good eating." Ere he had time to raise his gun, Aziza laid his hand upon his arm and said, "No, no! it is not good to shoot the first thing you see in the morning; it is bad fetiche." "Perhaps it may be 'bad fetiche,' as you call it, for one of you to do so, but you know my fetiche is different to yours."

SPORT IN ASHANTI. "White man's fetiche is no good here; this is black man's country, and his fetiche is the only one of any good." "Well, to please you, my good fellow, I will not shoot; but you must not put too many restrictions upon my sport, whether your fetiche is affected or not." Just then we heard an awful bellowing noise proceeding from the bank on our left, and in a few seconds a fine alligator was descried making towards the river. "There is no fetiche against that, surely, Aziza." "No, massa; alligator be bad for black men as well as white." "Then here goes," continued Fortescue, taking steady aim at the reptile's throat. A flash, a sharp report, and the alligator leaped straight up into the air a distance of at least six feet, and then fell struggling into the reeds on the water side. "I never thought so cumbrous a beast had such a spring in him," said Fortescue, reloading. "I think you would give an extraordinary jump if you had a similar persuader to the one the alligator had," said I. "But what's the matter here?" The boat following us was seen making towards the aying alligator, and the crew, upon reaching it, leaped out, and cut off the head and tail with axes. The body was then opened, and portions of it taken on board the canoe, which then paddled on after us. "You don't mean to say those fellows are going to eat alligator, do you, Aziza ?" said Fortescue, turning up his nose in disgust. "Alligator is very good for black men," said he; "by-and-by perhaps we all glad to eat some." "I sincerely hope your by-and-by will be never. Ugh! the very thought is disgusting." "Just wait a short time till you have seen a little more of Africans at home, before you so totally condemn alligator-eaters. I've no doubt your opinion will be considerably altered before we see Liverpool again." INow tell me, did you ever taste alligator yourself?"

AZIZA'S AD VENTURE. "I cannot say I ever did, but judging of its flavour through the medium of another person's palate, I should think it strongly resembles chicken stewed in musk." "So I should imagine; and a fellow must have a cast-iron stomach before he could digest such vile stuff. I've seen the boys on board ship come to the cabin and run awAy with a dish full of "gubbins," wherein sago pudding and caper-sauce, boiled mutton and apple tart, were mingled indiscriminately together, and have marvelled greatly at their gastronomic powers, but I should think even one of them would shudder at alligator fritters." By this time we had reached the entrance to the lake on whose northern shores the town stood where we were to embark. An island lay at the mouth of the lagoon, but in the moistureladen atmosphere it appeared to be several feet above the horizon, while trees were distorted into all sorts of shapes by the mirage. The sun's powerful beams were now pouring down upon us, while the fitful 1-nd breeze had died away. The lagoon was scarcely ever deeper than six feet, while its pea-soup coloured waters were haunted by numerous alligators, whose long backs, looking like floating logs, offered very questionable targets for our rifles. "Dull work, this," said Fortescue to Aziza. "Have you ever been up here before ? " "Oh, yes! plenty times before, massa. One time I nearly eat up by alligator." "A! how was that Aziza ? Let us hear about it." "I was out fishing on the lagoon, but had no luck. For several hours I had baited my lines with the most alluring morsels, and had quite exhausted myself by the frequent use of the cast net. Determined not to go home without a boat load, as I was anxious to dispose of the fish to procure powder and lead, I paddled out towards the middle of the lagoon-out there by those trees," he added, pointing to - some low islets wbich dotted the placid surface of the lagoon to our right. "Although my success was somewhat better, still it did not satisfy me, and

SPORT IN ASIHANTI. I thought, that the old fetiche priest must have deceived me, when he sold me the powerful juju* for catching fish, which I wore round my neck." " Have you the charm with you now, Aziza," said Fortescue. "Yes, here it is. By-and-by I show you its power. I paid four akiest for it, and it has always been true to me." This wonderful juju was a small leather bag slung round the neck of the owner by a leathern thong like a boot-lace. The edges were decorated with white and scarlet beads, while the virtues were centred in two or three little sticks and half-adozen fish scales which were carefully secured in the bag. "Suddenly as I gazed anxiously over the waters," continued Aziza, "in hopes of seeing the ripple of a shoal, my eye was arrested by the sight of several fine ibis which were standing in their curious one-legged fashion on one of the aits. I paddled towards it with my gun carefully primed, ready to fire as soon as my gun could reach them. Slower and slower dipped my paddle as I neared the islet, until I thought I was within range, when, taking steady aim, I fired. Four splendid birds lay struggling on the mud, and leaping out of my canoe I ran across the mud, my feet sliding about on the slippery surface, so that my progress was very slow." "I should think that on a mud islet, the maxim 'more haste the less speed' is very applicable," said Fortescue. " No man can run on wet mud with any great speed, but considerable progress can be made downhill, especially if the runner stumbles, when the sliding motion is delightful," said I. "So I should imagine. You can give us a suecimen if you like. But go on with your palaver, Aziza." "At last I reached the birds, and found them fine specimens, which would fetch me a dollar apiece at the Assinee factory, where a gentleman was collecting such things. What was my surprise on turning to regain my boat, to see her slowly drifting off, * A juju is a magical charm protecting the wearer from certain evils, or conferring extraordinary powers upon him, " An akie is a dollar's worth of gold.

A RA CE WITH AN ALLIGA TOR. already three or four hundred yards from the shore. I knew that to swim out to her was to run the gauntlet through scores of alligators, and I bad no fetiche for them, so could not make the attempt. I thought it was all over with me, as I saw her grow smaller and smaller, as she slowly drifted away, and began to curse my stupidity in not making her fast, when my ears were assailed by a snorting noise close at band, and on turning I saw a monstrous alligator just creeping ashore, with his eyes fixed upon me and his mouth wide open." "I should think an alligator has as open faced a visage as any animal," said I. "Well, taking into consideration that it is nearly all mouth, I should think you are not far out of the mark, unless the palm be given to one of the Medusm."* "My gun was only loaded with shot," continued Aziza, "but taking careful aim at the brute's eye, I fired. Such a bellowing as then ensued almost drove me to desperation, as the shot literally smashed the creature's right eye, but had not sufficient weight to penetrate to the brain. The alligator then made straight at me, and I retreated until I reached the water's edge, when I was horrified to see several others slowly swimming about. "Meanwhile the alligator had slipped on the mud, and taking advantage of the circumstance, I turned on one side and got beyond him." "Then began a circular chase round the islet. I was about twelve yards ahead of the alligator, which followed me at full speed. I loaded my gun again with shot, having no bullets with me, and fired at the left eye, but missed. During the halt the alligator had crept up to within six yards, so that I had to hurry out of his way. In my haste I slipped on the mud and fell, completely drowning my powder in the water. Thus I was * The medusga are what are generally termed jelly-fish. If one of them be turned inside out, the part which was back before the change becomes ptomach.

SPORT IN ASHANTI. placed completely at the creature's mercy, for I knew that the alligator would follow me up till I was quite tired out." "I should think you wished you had let the ibis alone, after you had made the acquaintance of the alligator, did you not, Aziza ?" "I wished I had; but I had faith in my fetiche, which I bought at Coomassie, against death from wild animals." "I wish we had speculated in some of these fetiches for our men, Arthur. It would have been money well laid out, if they give such confidence to the possessors." "My opinion ofjujus is that they are omnipotent when danger is far away, but when it approaches the magic virtues seem to become dissipated." "How long did your circular march last, Aziza ?" "I walked round the ait for nearly an hour, the alligator slowly gaining on me, and the mud, stirred up to a foot in depth, clogging my footsteps. I could hear the slow but sure approach of the reptile creeping nearer and nearer, and my heart lived in my mouth. I prayed in my mind to Zogpotin, the crocodile god, to save me, but I had not made fetiche for him for a long time. "Suddenly, turning to get a look at my pursuer, I fell on the mud, and before I could rise the alligator was upon me, with his immense jaws lifted wide open, and his eyes fixed upon me with a malignant look. I thought I was gone, when I thought I would give one more chance to myself, and as the creature came close up, I thrust the gun down his throat. He closed his jaws with a snap, evidently thinking he had secured his prey. Up I jumped, and scrambled out of harm's way, for the alligator had discovered that something was evidently wrong with him. He floundered about, whisking his long tail about from side to side with strokes which made the soft mud fly in every direction, while his jaws kept clashing together with a sound which could be heard half a mile off. "For more than an hour his struggles continued, until he sank exhausted on the mud, and lay still. After a time, seeing he did Dot move, I crept up close to him, and le!ing on hi4 ct

RIDE AN ALLIGATOR. back, plmged my knife into his eye. How he kicked and lashed his tail about you may imagine. His struggles were fearful, but 1 kept on his back like aleech, as I knew that one blow from his l)owerrul tail would smash me to jelly. "i kept my knife at work digging deeply into his eye, unitil at last a shiver ran from head to tail, and I knew the alligator was dead. "I leaped off the reptile, and was thankful to Zogpotin for giving me the victory, and utterly exhausted laid down with my head r-sting on the dead alligator and soon fell fast asleep. "My dreams were of a horrible character. Alligators and I were running round islands at a fearful speed, my foes ever gaining on, but never reaching me. At another time I was fighting with one of the reptiles which had almost overpowered me, but just when I was about to die the scene would change and the alligator would be gone, and I would be fishing in my canoe or shooting ibis. "I shall never forget the horrors of that night; and in the morning I felt weak from hunger, and could see no way to satisfy it except from the bodies of the ibis, while escape from the islet seemed as far off as ever. "I skinned the ibis and ate the flesh, of course raw; and the meal over, determined to make an attempt to escape, as an idea had struck me. "With much difficulty I stripped off the tough skin of the alligator, which by this time was filling the air with its sickening smell of musk, and making use of one of the leg bones of the ibis as a blow-pipe, I blew out the intestines of the alligator and made a kind of long bladder of them. I tied these round the skin of the alligator which I had stretched out flat, and then put the whole in the water. "I then carefully lay down on the raft thus formed, which was not bouyant enough to keep me altogether above the water, but the alligator skin was sufficient to screen my body from the sight of any other reptiles whom I might meet. "Paddling with my hands and the stock of my gun, I slowly

SPORT IN ASH4N2.I. mad i my passage across to the nearest island which had timber growing upon it. "I there cut down a few young trees which I added to my alligator-skin raft, and then set out for the shore which was about a mile off. "When I got to land I found my canoe stranded amidst some reeds, and getting aboard paddled over to Assinee, where I made a great fetiche to Zogpotin for saving me from the alligator." "That was a narrow escape, Aziza," said I. "I should think you bought an alligator juju as soon after as possible, didn't you? " "Oh! yes," said he, producing a small alligator in bead-work from a number of curiosities hanging at his waist. "I bought one the next day." By this time we bad crossed the lake and bad entered the river, on whose banks Kinjabo stood. The mangroves here attained a luxuriance unknown below. Innumerable roots rose out of the water, their grey bark showing conspicuously against the black shadow of the trees, while from the upper parts of the trunk the mangroves were supported, the bright green leaves of which growing in radiating tufts at the end of their long branches being very curious. Many of them were bespangled with gaily-coloured flowers; the inflorescence of gigantic creepers thus giving them an attractive appearance which was not truly their own. The roots were covered with oysters, while the mud was the abode of a peculiar fish of the oddest shape, liko a semi-inflated bladder, which was jumping about like a frog over the surface or occasionally indulging in a short swim.* Suddenly Fortescue cried out. "By Jove! there is a fish going birds'-nesting; look, look there So in reality a fish was climbing a treeby means of his spined pectoral fins, in search of some of the animals inhabiting the lower part of the trunk. * The periophthalmus.

A BIRDS'-NESTING FISH. We ceased paddling to watch the motions of the fish, which slowly hitched itself up the trunk. "Well, what would the old woman say to this, Arthur? Oysters growing on trees, fish going birds'-nesting, and lamps flying about." "Ah ! it is true that fietion is ever outdone by truth. You know the saying about the old woman who, when shown a flying-fish, said, 'Mountains of sugar and rivers of treacle I can believe, but in fish flying, I never will.'" "Oh! yes, that was the same individual to whom I just now referred." Meanwhile the fish had climbed several feet out of the water, when he suddenly appeared to lose his hold and to fall into the mud. Instantly a huge crab made its appearance, crawling sideways from out the mazes of the roots. Giving a powerful spring, he pounced upon the unfortunate fish, and at once began to make a meal off it. "You see the effects of leaving your proper sphere of life," said Fortescue. "If the fish had kept to the water, he would not have met with his untimely end." .. Paddling away much pleased at so extraordinary an exhibition of the wonders of natural history, we advanced up the stream. Numerous birds, such as flamingoes, spoonbills, ducks, snowwhite egrets, and other gruida enlivened the scene, while longtailed black monkeys crashed from branch to branch, as if heedless of their own safety. Presently a canoe was descried turning one of the bends at the end of one of the reaches in the river, and upon our coming up to it we saw our first specimen of the perfection of paddleship. Moving the paddle from side to side, with a motion similar to that of a scull without ever taking it out of the water, the boatman who stood in the stern gave rapid motion to his canoe. The latter was about sixteen feet long, and only ten inches broad, with raised ends. The paddle was about six feet long, with a broad blade shaped like an ash-leaf, while the boatman must have

SPORT IN ASHANTI. attained considerable perfection in the art of balancing himself ere he could hope to paddle a dozen yards without precipitating himself out of his canoe. We soon after came upon a group of women fishing for small perch. They were waist deep in the water with a basket slung on their backs and a pipe in their mouths, the shorter and blacker the better, to all appearance. Their net was of a coffee-bag shape, extended by a woolen hoop about four feet in diameter. Wading slowly alung, they pushed this net horizontally before them, about a foot beneath the surface, raising it from time to time and throwing any fish it contained into the basket slung behind them. An uglier, dirtier set could scarcely be imagined. Soon after Richards started up with a terrified look, exclaiming, "What is that? What a horrible monster!" pointing to an enormous head followed by a huge body, which appeared slowly swimming up the stream. "Why, that must surely be a hippopotamus," said Fortescue with a delighted look. "It is, and a large one too," said I. "I did not think we should find any so near the factories as this, Aziza." "Oh ! yes, plenty live about here, and I have sometimes seen them off the French fort at Assinee." "He does not appear to have noticed us. What an enormous monster! Why, it must be highly dangerous to canoemen, for they would upset a boat with a dozen men on board as easily as you or I would a toy ship. But there is another and another." As he spoke several other hippopotami appeared swimming in the wake of the first. Their appearance was well calculated to inspire terror as they showed their enormous jaws gleaming with white teeth. "Oh! just fancy a fellow getting a bite from one of those jaws. I don't think he would need a second.' "You are not far from the truth there, but the hippopotamus rarely attacks the canoemen, unless it is first molested. Like all herbivorous feeders it is a harmless inoffensive animal."

.HPI OPO TA4 A "I did not expect to see such big game just at present, but at any rate I am not disappointed at my first sight of the hippopotamus, which exceeds even my wildest imagination in its ponderous bulk." The hippopotami presently swain out into the middle of the stream, and the canoes still keeping on their cour c as if thero were no such beasts within miles, showed that to the boatmen they presented no terrors, although Richards was a pale green with fright, his teeth chattering together with a noise like a miniature sewing-machine. Ere turning the next bend in the river we saw them rise to the surface again with a quantity of weeds in their mouths, which they chewed leisurely as they swai along. "I thought hippopotami fed only by night," said Fortescue. "Oh! no, they are by no means disdainful of a bonne-bouche, if they come across it even at mid-day." "What are those curious retort-looking affairs on the end of those branches?" said Fortescue, pointing to a number of coffeebag structures on some of the trees ashore. "They are the nests of the golden oriole, I believe. Yes, there goes a female," said 1, as a splendid yellow bird flew out of the entrance of the nests, which, to Fortescue's surprise was at the lower end of the structure. "What singular affairs they are! But there must be some reason for their peculiar shape. Can you give one, Arthur ?" "Well, you see the eggs of all birds are objects of especial desire to monkeys and snakes, and if the eggs were laid in nests of the normal form, nothing could be easier than their plunder. To escape these depredations, therefore, an all-wise Nature has given the oriole the peculiar power of weaving these bottle. shaped nests, the sole entrance to which is at the lower part, so that none but winged creatures can effect an entrance, since they are always built at the extreme ends of the smnaller branches which will not sustain the weight of the sme1liest monkey." " How wonderfully Nature adapts means to an ond ! Troly the

SPORT IN ASHANTI. lover of Nature can never cease to wonder at the marvellous pro. tective care evinced for her lowliest forms." "You are right there. I never feel lonely when in the forest. There is always something new, something interesting with which to occupy the mind and drive away ennui." At this moment the foremost canoemen raised a loud cry, which was answered from the bush, and in a few moments we arrived off the landing place of Kinjabo where our water journey was to end. The canoemen who had started before us had already arrived, and were welcoming their comrades and assisting to unload the canoes. iFortescue and I, guided by Aziza, stepped ashore on the muddy bank where a miscellaneous crowd of men, women, and children, all conspicuous by their want of clothing, had assembled to stare at us, and comment upon our appearance in no subdued tones. At every dozen steps some urchin, anxious to show off his English, would make a very charity-school bow, and call out " Mornin', sah," amidst the yells of his delighted comrades. A walk of ten minutes brought us to the residence, or palace as it ought to be called, I suppose, of King Amootafoo. It was a range of low huts constructed of wattled bamboo tree thatched with grass, and differing in no respect save that of size from those of his subjects. Entering a low doorway, which was evidently never intended to admit any one without their stooping, we were ushered into a square room with a hard mud floor, and a few Gold Coast stools and a batiiboo bedstead as furniture. Meanwhile a crowd assembled outside, jabbering away, and in. dulging in various jokes, doubtless at our expense. "Well, if this is a specimen of a palatial mansion," said F]ortescue, "it gives one but a very poor idea of the power of the owner." "You must not expect a very grand style of architecture; but, nevertheless, the power of the mighty Amootafoo extends over all the country within a radius of, at least, twenty miles." "What a vast empire! But what are these curiosities hanging

AMOOTAFOO'S FETICRE. over the doorway ?" continued he, pointing to a collection of dried lizards, tortoises, birds' feathers, weeds, and such valuables, which hung over the lintel. "Those are fetiche charms to prevent any ill happening to the owner. They are far more effective in protecting Amootafoo's property than a dozen of the best locks would be. Should any of his subjects have the audacity to attempt to pass under without the king's permission, some awful disease would smite them if they were not struck dead at once. If you look above the fetiche you will see half-a-dozen skulls grinning in the semi-darkness; doubtless the ghastly relics of as many wicked men who, from time to time, have been discovered by the omniscient fetiche lurking about the premises, and who, after being struck down by the jujus, have been set up as a warning against all evil-doers." "I think the sooner we lay by a stock of fetiches the better, for they seem to be the only effectual stoppage against the plundering hands of the natives." "Certainly, they would be a safeguard," said I, "but I don't like the idea of encouraging the superstition." " Neither do I, so we will depend on our stout locks ana. hinges." Presently a young girl, followed by a dozen female slaves came in, bringing water in a large calabash, yams, roast fowl, stewed monkey, and other African delicacies, which were placed on the ground near the bedstead. "Here is a welcome, sure enough," said Fortescue, "but I don't think I can bring myself to eat too much of it until I am sure there is nothing human in the ingredients." "Oh! there is no fear of that here. On the Gaboon, however, you might be invited to sit down to a feed of mother-in-law, but I don't think they indulge in such delicacies here." "Well, that is one comfbrt ; but certainly that monkey stew looks very suspiciously like devilled papoose," said he laughing. Hush! here comes his Majesty." And at that moment Amootafoo stalked in with kingly stride. He was dressed in a long robe of dark blue cotton with bright

SPORT IN ASHANTI yellow pine-apples on it by way of ornameut. Over this he wore a very old and tattered sailor's monkey-jacket, while on his head was a cowhide turban-shaped cap, in which a clay pipe and a tooth-brush were stuck lovingly side by side. Altogether his getup was very effective, at least, in his own idea. Aziza introduced us to his Majesty, who graciously spat out a mouthful of tobacco-juice, and then shook us by the hand. "You are welcome to Kinjabo. All that I have I place in your hands, my houses, my wives, my children, my slaves, everything is yours. We will drink together." Upon this he baled out about half a gallon of water from the calabash, and then spilling a little on the ground as a fetiche offering, drank a little and then offered it to us. He then ordered his slaves to open one of the bottles of rum, and pouring out a tumbler-full tossed it off at a draught, after which he filled it up for us, evidently expecting us to follow his example. One taste of the vile stuff was enough, however, for us. As Fortescue afterwards said, it tasted like a mixture of parafin, turpentine, and benzole. The various dishes were then handed round, each helping himself, of course, with his fingers, which were washed from time to time in little calabashes of water placed by our sides. Pipes were then brought out, and after a few whiffs we asked Amootafoo if he could furnish us with a guide to Adansin. a town about twelve miles to the north. "Why are my friends in such a hurry to get away ? Why will not they stop a few days with me ? They shall have plenty of wives, plenty of shooting, and everything they require." "We have come out from England to visit the interior, and cannot delay at Kinjabo. We thank you for your kind offers, but Englishmen do not accept other people's wives, so we must decline the honour," said Fortescue. The fact was the crafty old savage was anxious to get a little pltnder out of us, for we afterwards discovered that he had been

-4E'LINDA, TlE ASHANTEE CHIEF. questioning our canoemen as to the quantity of rum, beads, and cloth we carried. "Will you let us have a guide? We will pay you for his services and for your trouble in procuring him ; but if you do not fiud one at once, we must start off without one.' "I have no guide here, but there is a chief caboceer* who has made several journeys between Coomassie and the coast, who is returning to the king to- morrow." "We shall be very glad to accompany him. We intend to visit Coomassie and see the king." "King Koffee is a great king. His power exceeds that of all monarchs of Africa. His armies carry destruction before them, and when the big war drum beats the nations tremble," said Amootafoo solemnly. "We have heard of his power, and are -nx'ous to see for ourselves, so that we may tell Englishmen hoy he reigns in Coomassie. Where is the caboceer? Can we see him to-day ?" "Melinda passed by just now returning from hunting on the river. One of my slaves shall fetch him to you." Muttering some orders in the ear of one of the slaves who knelt beside him, he resumed while the slave started on his errand, " Melinda is not an Ashantee, he comes from a country far to the east, from the great Houssa nation." "How happens it then that he is an Ashantee chief?" " He was taken a slave in one of the wars in Houssa, and sold to some merchants who brought him to Coomassie, where he was purchased by one of the caboceers. This was many years ago, and when his master died MAelinda sat on his stool."Presently a loud beating of drums, braying of horns, and beating of gong- gongs-the African cymbal-was heard approaching, and shortly after the caboceer made his appearance. Kneeling before the king he bowed his forehead to the dust, * A caboceer is an officer of the Asbantee and Dahoman armies. f Sitting on the stool is the native mode of expressing succession to an office. When no direct heirs exist, it is a very commorn occurrence for one of the slaves to succeed to the property.

SPORT ZN" ASHANTI. and then plentifully besprinkled himself with the sand. He was a fine tall fellow, with a noble countenance, his features being of a decided Houssa cast. He was superbly dressed in a tunic of many coloured cotton, confined round the waist by a crimson girdle, while several strings of beads hung round his neck. On his breast he wore a golden breastplate, while several small ornaments of the same precious metal were fixed in his hair, his head being crowned by a plume of eagle's feathers. He carried a small gun with a flint lock copiously decorated with fetiche charms. He was accompanied by two boys, who carried swords with massive handles of solid gold, while a third was in charge of his stool, which was also ornamented with gold. "The white friends of Amootafoo wish to go to Coomassie to see the power and wealth of the king. Will you let them accompany you, since they are in want of a guide. Aziza is a great hunter and knows all the paths of the forest, but he cannot conduct the strangers to the king." "Why should the white people wish to go to Coomassie? Are they traders with plenty of guns, powder, and lead, beads and cloth, knives and rum ? Or do they go up to make trade palavers with the king ? If their palaver is not good they will fall under the king's displeasure, and Koffee Kallcalli is not a king to listen to small palavers or be trifled with. The white men had better stay at the factories. The way is long and tedious. Many savage beasts are met with, while the grass will give the cra-cra,* aid the feet will be sore with walking. The sun will burn them, and the rain will drench them. They had better stay at the factories. No other white men have wished to go to Coomassie, and why should they venture into the presence of the great king ?" "We do not fear the dangers or difficulties of the way, Melinda. We came to this country expressly to see the king, and to shoot elephants and antelopes, and not to make any trade or bring palavers to the people or king. We are hunters and not traders, and are dcsirous to see the country." 0 Cra-cra is an eruption of the skin accompanied by painful irritation.

START FOR THE INTERIOR. "Melinda has told them of the dangers and difficulties of the way. If the white men go with him they must not be afraid, nor when palavers arise say, 'Melinda, why did you not tell us of this before ?' The white men may go to Coomassie with Melinda if they insist, but they bad better stay at the factories." "White men do not turn back when they attempt anything, Melinda. We are determined to go to Coomassie and to the mountains beyond. Say, will you accompany us, or must we seek further, or go without a guide? Go we will in spite of difficulty. or danger." "Melinda will go with his white friends; but for their sakes he wishes they would stay. He starts to-morrow when the birds awake. Will the white men be ready to go by that time?" "We are ready to start as soon as you are able to set out. We have plenty of carriers, and Aziza the great hunter accompanies us.', "Aziza is a great hunter. Melinda has heard of his deeds before this. Many elephants have fallen before his gun, and the ,ippopotamus and rhinoceros tremble at the sound of his footstep. The white men are lucky to have Aziza with them." After settling preliminary matters we left the king, and were conducted to a hut close by, where we prepared to snatch a few hours' slumber ere facing the arduous travelling of the morrow. Long ere the first streak of dawn had chequered the dark sky Aziza had roused the carriers, who were busy arranging their loads on curious basket-work frames which they bore on their heads. By daylight all were ready, and Melinda having arrived accompanied by his band, we started. Our company formed a long stritng, extending nearly half a mile along the road. Hammocks had been provided for Fortescue and I, with an efficient staff of hammockmen. The hammocks were of native cloth, striped blue and white, and slung from pegs stuck through the ends of a long bamboo stalk, while an awning of similar material shielded us from the rays of the sun. The hammockmen, with pads of grass on their heads, carried us along in a very jolting manner which

SPORT IN ASHANTI. was well calculated to try the containing powers of our stomachs, although we had been pretty well seasoned in sea-sickness on the voyage out. The road, first twelve yards wide, gradually narrowed into a mere footpath, whilst the tall grass, heavily laden with dew, gave us painful smacks in the face as it sprang back after being pushed aside by the passage of the bearers. "Pleasant travelling this," said Fortescue, "you are tossed in a blanket and beaten with canes, for, by Jove! the grass here is as thick as a small cane; and doesn't it sting you with its flinty spines Those fellows must have hides of leather to be able to walk through it with impunity." "Oh ! you will soon get used to it," said I, "and will come to look upon cra-cra as rather a desideratum than otherwise." "That is all very well, but I'm afraid if this sort of thing continues much longer my face and hands will be peeled or stuck full of spines like a porcupine." In about an hour we left the grassy plain and entered the forest. Here a very different state of affairs existed ; the trees arched overhead, while numerous creepers, thick as a man's leg, twined themselves round the massive limbs, while far overhead the morning sun was tingeing the tree-tops with gold; numerous birds were flying about twittering to each other, while every few minutes the crash of some monkey as it leaped from branch to branch broke upon our ear. "This is delightful," said Fortescue," no more hammock for me. Give me a gun, Richards; I'll try to make an addition to our bill of fare." I at once joined him, and together we walked over the falling leaves of the path. "I should hope there are no snakes about," said he, "for a fellow has but little chance of seeing them." "They are as frightened of you as you are of them," said I; "accidents are few and far between, although snakes of the deadliest kind are pretty numerous." " There's a splendid fellow," said he, pointing at a fine sun- A1iEL OPES. bird which was tweeting on a spray just ahead. Ile stopped to take aim, but to my surprise precipitately laid down his gun and began to scratch his legs in a furious manner, while he leaped about as if he were suddenly smitten with St. Vitus's dance. "What is the matter ?" said I laughing, for I guessed the cause. "Why I've halted in the middle of a train of these confounded ants, and they are trying to make a meal of ie. Who would think such small creatures could torment one as they do ? " "You should never forget to look to your feet in an African forest," said I, "for the trains of ants are crossing the paths in every direction, and it is just as well to keep clear of them." "It's all very well for you to preach in that way, just lend a fellow a hand to pick off some of the 'varmint.' " Accordingly I assisted him to get rid of his tormentors, but, so closely did they hold with their jaws, that in many instances they preferred to part with their bodies rather than let go. "Well, this will be a lesson to me," said Fortescue, throwing away the last ant; "why the beggars bite like red-hot needles." Soon after Aziza called out, " Hist," and placing his fingers to his lips to indicate silence, pointed through the forest to the right. On coming up, what was our delight to see a fine antelope quietly nibbling the young twigs some three hundred yards from the path; the pretty creature was as yet unsuspicious of danger, and, as we gazed, five others appeared further to the right. "We are too far off for a shot here," said I; "let us try to get nearer." Creeping, stalking along over the fallen leaves, carefully avoid. mg every dry stick which by cracking would have sent our game flying to the winds, Fortescue, Aziza, and I managed to get within thirty yards of the antelopes. "You take the buck, Fortescue," said T, " while Aziza and I shoot the two nearest. Now, when you are ready." As our smoke cleared off we saw that our shots had taken effect. The buck was hit hard, and dropped after running a few

SPORT IN ASHANTI yards, while the doe, killed by Aziza, fell dead ; the one I aimed at only ran a short distance, when it also stumbled to the earth. "Hurrah ! " said 1, " venison for dinner to-day." "What a beautiful creature it is!" said Fortescue, gazing at the dying animal; "one cannot wonder at the Eastern poets dedicating sonnets to the eye of the gazelle, it almost makes me sorry for what I have done when I look at its reproachful tenderness." Meanwhile Aziza had hurried up three of our men, to whose shoulders the antelopes were quickly transferred, and we again trudged on. By mid-day we arrived at the village of Bevageh, where we prepared to halt for the night. Our followers had already built a huge fire in the square, while our luggage was piled up near them ; Melinda had managed to obtain the use of a hut for us, while he and his men were camped close by. While sitting over our pipes after enjoying a delicious venison supper, Melinda approached and, at our request, sat down by us. "The white men are good hunters," said he. "I do not fear for them now, since they left their hammocks at early morning and have walked all day." "We should be very poor hunters if we could not do our share of walking," said I; " when people come out to this country they must be prepared to rough it." "To-morrow we shall come to the big river, where you will see plenty of animals. You must have your big guns ready, for we may see elephants, rhinoceros, or buffalo, and your shot is only fit to kill birds, and no hunter will shoot them when he can get ivory." "We shall be prepared for whatever comes in our way, M elinda," said I ; "I only hope there will be good sport." "We shall see sport, for true, before we reach Coomassie," said Melinda with a smile. "The more sport the better we shall be pleased," said Fortescue; "but why do you keep away from us on the march? we should be glad of your help in securing our game." "Melinda feels pleased at what his white friends have spoken i

A _NIGHT A TTA CK. be wished to be close to them, but until he was asked Melinda would never intrude." "'No intrusion at all, my fine fellow, whilst we are in your escort we shall be glad to have you with us. Suppose we drink success to our hunt to-morrow. Here, Richards, bring brandy, or would you prefer rum, Melinda, for yourself ? " "Melinda is a caboceer of Ashanti, but he has never tefiled his lips with the foul rum of the peopl,-it makes a man's head go round and his feet refuse to carry him. No hunter should touch it, lest his aim be unsteady and he fall a prey before the beasts of the forest; still a little spirit is good, so Melinda will drink success with his friends, but in brandy, not in rum." "I certainly can compliment you on your choice, Melinda, for viler stuff than trade rum I never tasted." After a friendly glass and a pipe together Melinda retired to his quarters, while we lay down to sleep the sleep of the tired, than which what is more luxurious ? Our watch fires burned lower and lower as the hours sped on, and silence reigned throughout the camp, when I awoke with a feeling indescribable to those who have never experienced it. I felt as though something were going to happen-as if I had been warned by a secret monitor that I must keep on the alert. Without knowing why, I stepped out of our hut into the star-lit night. All was still and calm ; the faint breeze rustled through the leaves like the sigh of the ocean, while the fluttering of the leaves of a fan-palm close by reminded me of the pattering of heavy rain. The forms of our sleeping servants could be dimly seen looming out by the fickle light of the smouldering fires, and I was just about to return to my hammock when an unearthly cry-a cry which seemed to curdle the blood in my veins and paralyse my every energy-went up to the peaceful skies. It seemed to come from the sleeping-quarters of my carriers, but it was so awfully sudden that I could scarcely be certain whence it arose. Xy first idea was that murder was being committed, but we

SPORT IV ASIIANTI were still in a friendly country, and I had no reason to think that any palavers existed between my people and the viilagers. Rushing into the hut and clutching my gun, with a warning call to my still sleeping comrades, I hurried in the direction of the horrib*le sound. Scarcely had I taken a dozen steps, when up rose the fearful and horrid wail a second time, followed by a series of awful shrieks in several voices, amongst which I could distinguish that of an infant apparently in fearful agony. I rushed on, heedless of consequences, when I was startled to hear a loud laugh prolonged to a considerable extent, which by its unearthly savageness could scarcely be human. A gain and again it was repeated, each time fainter than the last, as if the author were retreating Soon I heard the noise of muskets firing, and, coming out among the carriers, was horrified to hear that a hviia had stealthily crawled in among the sleeping porters and bad snatched an infant from its mother's arms, tearing away her breast at the same time, while she lay sleeping in fancied security within her hut. The whole encampment, now thoroughly roused, had started in pursuit of the murderer, whose unearthly laughter had so startled me. I hurried on with the rest, eager to wreak my vengeance on the monster, when, on entering into a small glade in the forest, I caught sight of the hyena entering the bushes on the opposite side. Quick as lightning my gun was at my shoulder, and a leaden messenger was on the track of the robber, and a fearful howl, prolonged into a sort of wail, told of the correctness of my aim. Coming up I saw that my ball had entered just behind the fore leg and, coming out at the neck, bad ended the career of the marauder for ever. lEre the porters had come up I had released the infant from the grip of the monster, but its horrid work was complete; the hyena had grabbed it by the face, and a crushed and battered something was all that remained of its head. The rage of tEe carriers on seeing that the babe was dead was fearful but

A4 HORRIBLE MONSTER. childish, for they poured volley after volley of shot into the dead body of the hyarna. We slowly and sadly wended our way back to the camp, where the distracted mother, heedless of her own fearfully lacerated bosom, was helplessly bewailing the loss of her babe, and calling on all the fetiche people of her village to aid her by, their incantations. "What a fearful tragedy!" said Fortescue when we bad returned to our hut. "I sincerely pity the poor mother who has lost her infant in so horrible a manner." "So do I; but at Prampram, below Accra, I have heard that such scenes are not unfrequent, although the natives protect their huts by thickets of prickly pear. I told Richards to give the poor woman some dressing for her wound, but I expect its good effects will be counteracted by the rum she will be forced to drink by the fetiche priests, for rum: is a necessary concomitant to every ceremony in this benighted land." "Truly it appears so; I'm afraid the Good Templars would have but a poor time of it." "Well, I think they are scarcely less to be pitied than these benighted heathens, for they: would have us believe that wine and such things are the invention of the devil for man's destruction. I cannot have any good opinion of a man who totally abstains from alcoholic drinks on such grounds, for there is every proof that they are beneficial when taken in moderation." "I believe some carry their madness so far as to refuse it when ordered medicinally. A man who cannot refrain from getting intoxicated unless he totally abjures wine must have very little control over himself; in my opinion he is still a drunkard at heart, and it is only the mere fact of his having put his name to a picturesque temperance card that keeps him sober." "I certainly cannot believe that so much alcoholic drink was ever intended by Providence to be totally abjured; if its use is abused, why there is a different matter altogether, but these wiseacres would have us totally ignore it." "Well, all I can say is that they. are run mad in a good cause; P*

66 SPORT IN ASHANTI. but let's get a little more sleep, for I expect we have a heavy day's work before us." Aziza brought us the hide of the hymna just as were ready to start in the morning, and although it was rather torn by the vengeful shots of the carriers, it was still a splendid skin, and I had it preserved, and it now figures as a rug in my drawingroom.

CHAPTER Il1. SUN 'RISE IN THE FOREST-A TERRIBLE ORDEAL-DOWN 1%" TEN MtDKING BANGOLO-MAGIC COOKERB--A GHOST STORY. THE sluggard and the man about town whose personal acquaint. ance with sunrise is either totally negative or only as the herald of approaching slumber, lose an en~Joyrnent they little know of. There is a freshness in the air and an exhilarating power in all nature which imbues new vigour into one's veins, and seems to create a new power within one. Nothing is more delightful than the first two hours of daylight in an African forest; then the flowers seem to exhale a sweeter perfume,-the leaves to put on a fresher and a brighter green, and the very quivering of the branches in the morning breeze may be imagined to be the clapping of their hands in welcome to the sun. The birds chant their orisons in notes more sweet than later in the day, for, gentle reader, it is a mistake to imagine that tropical birds have no song; many a time when starting off on a ramble at early dawn I have been charmed with the melody of the birds, rivalling the sweet cadences of the thrush pr the soul-stirring strains of the linr.et. Een where melody is

SPORT IN A.SHANTI wanting, to the ear of the naturalist there is music in many sounds; the "tweet- tweet" of the weaver-bird, the "cree-cree" of the grasshopper, and the "cli-cli" of the sun-bird are the trebles of the animal choir, while the "whloo-whloo" of the angona, the "sah-soh" of the red-breasted parrot, and the deeper voices of the beasts of the field constitute a bass accom.paniment to the matutinal hymn which raises the soul of the true lover of nature, until his pent-up feelings burst out in the words of Milton :"These are thy glorious works, Parent of Good, Almighty! Thine this universal , Thus wondrous fair. Thyself how wondrous then, Unspeakable! who sittest above these heavens To us invisible, or dimly seen In these Thy lowest works; yet these declare Thy goodness beyond thought, and power Divine." Our way led through a thick jungle where monkeys abounded, especially a long- tailed species, several of which succumbed to our bullets. About noon an opening in the forest was passed where a rude hut was erected sheltering a terrific juju, which was supposed to preserve travellers from the evil spirit of the woods; it was a huge squat deity, bearing a faint resemblance to the human form, with enormous ears, a very flat nose, and a mouth extending from ear to ear, with cowries stuck in for teeth; it squatted on its hams with its hands on its knees, and was completely covered with filth of all descriptions, while a colony of ants bad established themselves in its interior. Some of the carriers, more devout than the rest, prostrated themselves before this " devil," as Aziza called it, while that worthy threw a morsel of cankie into the platter set out for the reception of offerings before the god. "What do you sacrifice to this devil for, Aziza ?" said I. "He be good devil for sure. S'pose bad man put fetiche on the road be stop him with stronger medicine." "Bat do you really believe this mud god will protect you in your wanderings through the forest P"

AZIZA ON FETICRISM. Azlza here assumed a curious look, half serious, half ludicrous, as he said in a whisper, "If we do not believe it we are obliged to pretend to do so, for the fetiche people would poison any body who doubted the power of the devil." Presently the forest became more open, and shortly after we emerged on the banks of a large river. "How are we going to cross this?" said Fortescue, "for I see no signs of a village or canoe." "Wait a little, and we shall see what Melinda will do." "Aye, there he is," said Fortescue, and at that instant a loud "lu-lu" went up from his powerful lungs, echoing through the leafy arches with startling effect. An answering cry was sent up from the forest on the other side of the river, and in a few moments a canoe was seen putting off from the shore. Melinda's men and the boatman then entered into a conversation, although they were a quarter of a mile apart at the very least, the result being that the canoemen undertook to carry Melinda, Aziza, and ourselves across, and then to send assistance to transport our baggage across the river. We took our station in the frail vessel with a slight misgiving, as the canoe was only about ten inches wide, although as many feet in length. Talk about Blondin on the tight rope, that is mere child's play in comparison to crossing a river in one of these cockleshells. One needs to be careful to part his hair exactly in the centre in order to preserve equilibrium. Yet, touchy as they are, their tenderness is not nearly so great as some of the Yankee dugouts. A party was once being ferried across, and, in spite of all endeavours, no sooner did the boat leave the shore than it capsized. At last it was discovered that the boatman had a hollow tooth, and, when due allowance had been made for this, the balance of the boat was maintained. "That is just like a Yankee yarn," said Fortescue. "I don't-" His speech was brought to an abrupt termination by the boat running against an alligator which appeared at that moment,

SPORT IN ASHA.NTI. and Fortescue, not being prepared, was toppled overboard in an instant. "Splash with your paddles !" shrieked Aziza, "or the alligator will seize the master. Splash for your friend's sake!" Then leaping into the river, drawing his sharp knife at the same time, he disappeared, while Fortescue rose to the surface followed by the alligator, whose horrible mouth was only a few inches from his feet. With a powerful stroke, which seemed to lift him half out of the water, Aziza gained the animal, and plunging his knife into its throat just as it was in the act of making a grab at Fortescue, drew the attention of the monster to himself. Then began a duel fearful in its excitement. The alligator lashed the water into seething foam with the powerful strokes of its tail, his fearful jaws clashing together with a sound that made one shudder as it made grab after grab at Aziza, who, with wondrous agility was dodging every attack in the endeavour to plunge his knife into the creature's eye, and thus reach its brain. Now the alligator appeared to be about to seize his opponent, when, diving beneath him, Aziza would stab the monster in the belly; and thus the combat went on until Aziza succeeded in plunging his dagger into the eye of the alligator, which, uttering a snort of agony, rolled over on his side and sank lifeless to the bottom. Aziza then, exhausted with the combat, swam to the canoe, and clinging to the stern, was thus towed to shore. "How can I reward you for saving my life?" said Fortescue with considerable emotion. "But For you I should have been torn by the cruel teeth of the nionster. or drowned ere I could reach the shore." "Aziza is sufficiently thanked by your kind words. He did not join the expedition to let his masters get into danger without his endeavouring to save them. Let them praise Zogpotin, the crocodile god, for permitting him to deliver his master from the jaws of the monster. Aziza has spoken." After this adventure we travelled over a grassy plain some

KINO ALAFA'S TROUBLE. miles In extent, upon which we saw a herd of buffalo grazi)g at a distance, but did not get a shot at them as we were i, a hurry to reach the village of Kalumba, where we proposed to halt for the night. We arrived in sight of the village about three in the afternoon. A strong fence of acacia and prickly pear surrounded the houses, while a similar protection round a kraal, wherein the goats belonging to the inhabitants were gathered together, kept off hungry leopards and hytenas. The villagers welcomed us with but little ceremony ; the chief, Alatk, evidently having some business of greater importance on hand. "Melinda and his friends are welcome," said he snapping fingers with the caboceer. "His face always brings joy to the heart of Alafa, which is now very sad." "What is the matter with the old chief, Melinda? " said I. "I will ask him by-and-by, but my masters must wait until we are in private ere Alafa will tell his trouble to me." While sitting round our camp fire enjoying a plenteous repast of venison, pigeons, and a stewed monkey, Melinda made his appearance, evidently discomposed at some information he had received. "Melinda is the bearer of ill news," said Fortescue. "No ill news for you, my masters, but sad for his friend Alafa." "What is the matter? Quick! let us know everything." "Alafa has a beautiful daughter. Her eyes are soft and loving as the gazelle's; her form is round and supple as the fairest princess of Coomassie: and her voice is the sweetest in the land. She has many lovers; but of all the young men of the village none were so assiduous in their attentions as Amooso, the crafty son of Bevango. Sabina did not love him. Hie was too cruel and too hard a master for her to be his wife; and though Amooso offered plenty of cloths and two periguins* of gold as her price, her father would not wed her to Amooso without her * A periguin is £10 in currency.

SPORT IN ASHANTI. consent. Amooso would not be refused. He followed the maiden wherever she went, and pressed his suit. She could not pound the maize or fetch the water for her father's household without meeting Amooso there begging her to give her consent. "Sabina loved Lamanka, a brave hunter of the village, but he was poor and unable to pay the price her father set upon her. Within twelve moons he hoped to kill many elephants, and by the sale of their ivory obtain sufficient to pay her dowry. "Amooso knew that Lamanka was a great hunter, He knew that Sabina loved him, and was jealous in his wicked heart. One morning he met Sabina carrying corn to plant in the fields. He begged her to fly with him, but she refused. Amooso then tried to carry off Sabina, but she resisted and cried out; her companions appeared, and Amooso had to fly; and Sabina was angry with him and told him he should be punished. The next day Amooso fell sick and sent for the fetiche doctors, who could not cure him. They sacrificed fowls and goats, but still Amooso grew worse, and they feared he would die. Then came Kalanka, the great medicine- man, who said that Amooso was bewitched. Amooso said that Sabina had spoken hard words against him, and Kalanka said she must drink leambi to prove that she did not bewitch him. "To-night the ordeal is to come off. Hark! there are the drums beating, and soon Sabina must drink the fatal draught. Who knows whether she may not die? for none but the sky spirit knows whether she can withstand the cruel tortures of the leambi.' " Let us hasten to the scene," said Fortescue springing up. "We may, perhaps, save the girl from being actually poisoned!" "Let my master pause ere he interferes with the fetiche people," said Aziza. " They are all-powerful in Ashanti, and would find means to poison us all if we said anything against them." " ust we, then, stand calmly by and see a fellow-creature poisoned P said Fortescue in anger. "What can you do ?" said Aziza. "If you were to dash the

THE ORDEAL BY POISON. cup from Sabina's lips the villagers would rise against you, and you would only endanger yourselves without doing Sabina any good." "I fear we are absolutely powerless to prevent the ordeal," said I. Meanwhile we had approached the open space in front of Kalanka's dwelling, where about a hundred men and women had assembled. Kalanka himself was in full fetiche costume. He wore a petticoat of long, twisted grass with cowries fixed at the ends of each fringe, which rattled together as he moved about. A. bloodbesmeared tunic covered his breast, and was plentifully decorated with little leathern pockets, which contained magic philtres for every conceivable purpose. His face was whitewashed, as also were his arms and legs, while streaks of red and black ochre added to his hideous appearance. Round his waist he wore several bags each containing jujus, such as snakes' fangs, magic rope, bits of stick, birds' skulls and feathers, cowries, dried blood, etc. etc. The outsides of the bags were ornamented with leopards' tails, birds' feathers, young tortoises, and similar curiosities. He was walking solemnly round a small circle marked off by small stones, in the centre of which the unfortunate Sabina lay helplessly bound and gagged with a Y shaped piece of wood. The old magician was muttering an incantation and jingling a number of brass and iron bracelets together. Presently a number of drums began to beat and several horns of elephant tusks were blown. The doctor then went into his hut, and in a few minutes returned carrying a small calabash, which contained the fatal leambi. Two of his assistants then raised the poor girl, and unbinding her hands and taking the gag out of her mouth began a dolorous song, which may be translatedWhen the witches come to us We must quickly drive them out By Kalanka's magic drugs, Aided by our powerful shout.

SPORT IN ASHANTI. Here Sabina witched our friend, She must drink leambi strong; If she dies Amooso's right, If she lives Amooso's wrong. The poor girl evidently knew the fearful nature of the draught, for she struggled violently to fiee herself from her cruel captors, and called loudly to her friends to reicue her from the hands of the magician. But not a single person stirred. So powerful a hold had Kalanka and his magic upon the superstitous minds of the villagers that no one dared lift a hand in the poor girl's defence. 91"What a horrible scene! Would to God we could save the poor creature, but we are perfectly helpless," said Fortescue excitedly beating his hands together at his inability to do anything. "Nothing save a direct application to force could save the girl," said I. " She is doomed unless she has a friend in the magic doctor, who can so mix the draught that it shall not be fatal." "Heaven send that he may be mercifully inclined," rejoined he; "1 but from his looks I fear he is bent upon her destruction." "Possibly he has been 'dashed' by Amooso," said I, "and in that case all is lost !" The magic draught being duly mingled, the doctor approached the shrieking girl, and while his assistants cruelly forced open her clenched teeth with sticks the contents of the calabash were poured down her throat. Then three juju men immediately set up another chant, and in a few seconds the effect of the poison began to manifest itself. Sabina began to swing herself about as if intoxicated, her eyeballs glaring and her face becoming distorted as the action of the poison became more powerful. Soon convulsive twitchings of the muscles of the face set in, and within three minutes of her drinking the leambi the blood gushed out of her mouth, and with a wild shriek she sank lifeless on the earth. "Can it be possible," said Fortescue; his cheeks blanched with

A FEARFUL TRAGEDY. horror, "that a people like this exist within three weeks' sail of England? We can scarcely realise the fact, but it is nevertheless true. Scenes such as this are of too frequent occurrence, and until the neck of superstition is broken they will continue to occur amongst these savages." "How I could gladly send a bullet through the old villain's head! " said Fortescue excitedly; standing up and clenching his fist at Kalanka. "Let my friend be careful," said Melinda with great concern. "If Kalanka sees him he will say he is bewitched, and we may all suffer for it." "I can scarcely keep myself within bounds," said Fortescue, endeavouring to calm his excited feelings; "but our common safety renders it necessary to restrain our feelings. Would to heaven that the wretch had been obliged to drink the leambi himself." Meanwhile the body of the poor victim lay doubled up on the ground where it had fallen, while the three fetiche men were loudly extolling their powers of discovering a witch, pointing to the prostrate body before them as a potent illustration. The aged parents of poor Sabina with difficulty stifled their sobs as they saw their beloved daughter a fell sacrifice to the evil designs of her rejected lover, but they not give any outward sign of that natural grief which they must have with difficulty smothered within their hearts. Kalanka then stooped over his victim, and cut off several handfuls of her hair with which to make magical jujus, and then the body was dragged by the heels and thrown into the bush beyond the outskirts of the village, there to be. come a prey to vultures and hyeilas, for no one dared give it burial. Slowly and sadly we returned to our quarters, the shrieks of poor Sabina still ringing in our ears ; and our dreams that night were diturbed by apparitions of a tortured woman, whose staring eyeballs and convulsed features so horrified us that we started up with a cold perspiration streaming down our checks, and

SPORT IN ASHANTI. vainly endeavoured to drive away the recollection of the awful scene by conversation one with another. The next morning we were startled during breakfast by Stuart rushing into our hut, his face white as a sheet, and shaking all over with mortal terror. "What is the matter, Stuart," said both Fortescue and I. For several seconds the terror-stricken man could not utter a word, and at length, amidst the chattering of his teeth, he gasped out-" Scorpions!" "Scorpions, where ? Who's bitten ?" said. I. "Your boots," stuttered the servant; his fears in no way lessened. Fortescue jumped up as if he had been electrified, fancying that a scorpion was on his boot, but on looking about he was unable to discover one of the reptiles. "There are no scorpions on my boots," said Fortescue, thinking that the man's fears had developed a leaf or something else on the ground into one of the envenomed-stinged monsters. "In your other boots," spurted out Stuart. "In my other boots! Then why did you rush in and startle us in this foolish manner? Where are the boots?" "In our hut," said Stuart; his knees knocking together like ham mers. We hurried out, and on arriving at our servants' quarters, discovered Fortescue's long boots lying outside the door. I picked one up and nearly dropped it, as I saw the dark brown claws of a full-fed scorpion peeping out at the top. On shaking the boot, out fell four of these tropical pests, which, apparently somewhat confused at their sudden ejectment, began running hither and thither in a very wild manner. Their career was, however, soon brought to a termination, as we hunted them up with long sticks; and then, having with difficulty assured Stuart that all danger was over, we returned to our breakfast which had been so curiously disturbed. Right glad were we to get away from the blood-stained village, our course lying parallel with the river, but about a mile from

ANTS A GAIN. its banks' so that we escaped the mangrove swamps. We saw several buffaloes and antelopes feeding, but did not go after them. About noon we came upon the remains of a gazelle which had been overpowered and partially devoured by a leopard, at least such was Aziza's explanation. We soon after came to a half in an open space in the forest, which was so thickly covered with flowers that it appeared as if it had once been a garden. Lovely butterflies of every hue were flitting from one to the other, while splendid sun- birds rivalling the bumming-birds of the western world in the metallic splendour of their hues were darting about in quest of their honeyed food. "What a paradise for an entomologist!" said Fortescue. "How some of our friends in England would like to gaze upon such a scene as this! I should think such a sight would awaken entomological enthusiasm in the breast of any one. Just look at those lovely blue butterflies, and there is one bright golden yellow," continued he as the winged gems flew by. "Africa certainly contains many gloriously coloured butterflies," said I, " but her fauna is nothing to that of the Brazils." " So I have been told, but I question if there is greater delight in taking the metallic gems of Brazil than in the vividly contrasted butterflies which are hovering round us." "That may be so, all are beautiful in my opinion." Just at this point Richards uttered a very strong adjective as he came to the ground with a crash, bringing with him the debris of an ant-hill, upon which he had fondly hoped to rest himself. "Oh, Lor! Oh, Lor! Come here somebody!" cried out the unfortunate, as the ants swarmed all over him. "Help, help! I'm being eaten alive," he continued, as regaining his feet he commenced to caper about like a lunatic, vainly endeavouring to free himself from his tormentors. We hurried up to the assistance of our unfortunate servant, but could not help laughing at his ludicrous predicament. He was literally smothered with small brown ants which were busily engaged in investigating the nature of his flesh.

SPORT iN ASHANTI. When we had cleared off his tormentors, his skin looked as if lie had been pricked all over with a fine needle or bad been whipped with a gorse bush. "Darn the things," said he; "who could have known that one of them big toad- stools was an ants' nest. I thought I could sit down for a bit of a rest on it, when the darn thing way, and down I went while the little varmints came out as thick as bees." "You should have a look where you are going to deposit your precious carcass, otherwise you will be sitting on a centipede one of these fine days, if you are not wide awake," said I. Poor Richards went off looking very glum and scratching his inflamed skin in every possible direction. "Ants certainly are one of the plagues of an African forest," said I. "One cannot sit down for five minutes without being discovered by their scouts, to say nothing of treading on one of their galleries or crushing through an ant-hill as Richards did just now." "I had a treat of them yesterday," rejoined Fortescue; " for on going beneath a tall bush, I caught one of the low branches with my gun, and down came a perfect shower of the fiery little monsters " "They are certainly a nuisance, and the little ones are as bad as the larger ones," continued I, shaking a score or thereabouts out of my haversack, whence they had gone in search of fragments of food. " They have actually got into my haversack, and I remember once finding a number within the leaves of a book I carried in my pocket, between which I had placed a butterfly." Our course lay nearer the river by this time, and we soon came up to the swampy ground forming the river banks. As we neared the stream we were obliged to walk in single file as the path narrowed till it was no more than a mere track. I was walking on ahead of Fortescue, and bad just crossed a patch of mud caked (or frozen over as he called it) by the heat of the sun, when a stifled cry from behind caused me to turn sharp

DO IVN IN THE M1UD. round. The sight I met then set me laughing, till the boggy ground trembled with the violence of my cachinnations. Fortescue, who was a heavier man than I, in crossing the frozen-over mud had come to grief by bursting through the thin upper-crust, and sinking in the black slime until his waist-belt was nearly on a level with the surface. In his struggles to keep upright he had smeared his face with various hieroglyphics in black mud, and presented a sight at once both ludicrous and pitiable. "Now then, old fellow, don't stand there laughing like a ninny, just help me out of this mess." "How I wish some of your swell friends could see you at this moment! You do look a guy with your butterfly-papers pinned on your hat." "Well, just help me out ere I start for New Zealand by the underground route, for I'm sinking deeper each minute." Stretching out my gun, for I dare not trust myself on the treacherous surface, by dint of several strong efforts I succeeded in dragging my friend out of the slough; and, leaving him to the tender care of several carriers who were busily scraping the mud off his clothes, I indulged in a roar of laughter. "Laugh away, old fellow, your turn will come by-and-by." "Well, I hope it will be in a more pleasant manner than yours when it does come, for you are covered from head to foot with black mud." "Ah, well! there are -worse misfortunes at sea, so let us get on." We soon after arrived at the cassava plantations belonging to a large town, and as a couple of urchins who were strolling about caught sight of the white faces of Fortescue and myself, they rushed into the village screaming at the top of their voices as though they had seen a ghost. "Those young scamps will put the whole village in an uproar if we do not prevent it. Where is Melinda? " "He has gone on ahead," said Aziza; "to make preparations but there he is to answer for himself."

SPORT IN ASRANTI. At this moment Melinda appeared, bearing in his hand a calabash of water, with which to cool our hearts; and upon his coming up, he requested us to halt until the king of the town had made his toilet. In a few minutes the noise of drums and horns from behind the bushes ahead of us announced that all was ready, and marshalling ourselves into a column, Melinda and his men in front, Fortescue and I in the centre, and our carriers in the rear, we tried to enter the village in an imposing manner, but I am afraid we did not succeed. We were conducted by Melinda to a low thatched shed with a wide verandah in front, beneath which a chair and seviral stools were set out for our accommodation, while a bamboo bedstead with a brightly-coloured cotton cloth upon it, which was placed before them, was evidently the royal seat. A group of pot-bellied urchins dressed in a few beads strung round their necks were gazing at us as though we were strange beasts, while their seniors were not one whit behind them in the intensity of their looks; evidently their curiosity was raised to its utmost. Presently a girl brought in a basket of cankie,* which she set before us, and then squatted down by the side of the bedstead. A loud braying of horns announced the approach of royalty, and his Majesty soon after appeared in full fig, evidently got up for our special delectation. He was dressed in a kind of petticoat of red and blue cotton; what bad once been a white waistcoat, and a blue monkey-jacket. Ie leaned heavily on a staff with a wooden crescent on the top, while a very complete collection of jujus depended from his left shoul(ler. A short black clay-pipe stuck through a tuft of his wool, and a tooth-stick of moniba wood, which he chewed with evident satisfaction, completed his costume. * Cankie is a kind of maize hasty-pudding made into balls and wrapped np in plantain-leaves; it has a very sour, alkaline taste, like putty stewed in toap-suds.

KALG A AG OL O. He shook bands with us, snapping his fingers together afterwards, and then produced a bottle of gin from a covered calabash which was brought in by a boy. We sipped a little of the vile compound, evidently surprising King Bangolo, for that was his Majesty's name, by our abstemiousness. "White men come to shoot?" said he; after pouring nearly a pint of the fiery spirit down his wizened throat. "We have come to hunt elephants and to see the country, so that we can tell our countrymen of all the wonders of your kingdom." "That is not a good palaver. If white men come to trade it is good, but why should they come to hunt? Aziza is a great hunter, he will kill plenty of game for his masters, then why should they come themselves to hunt ? " We told him we came for the pleasure; but his Majesty, with the innate laziness of his race, could not imagine any work being done for pleasure. We presented him with a bottle of brandy and a case of gin, and, declining to make use of his harem, which with true savage politeness he placed at our disposal, returned soon after to our huts." The next three days were passed much in the same manner as the previous one, a few monkeys, ten antelopes, and several guinea-fowl falling victims to our rifles; when, having crossed the Prah River, we approached the slopes of the Adansi Hills, where we expected to meet with elephants. Our guns were loaded with balls weighing seven to the pound, and every pieparation was made to encounter our gigantic game with success. The first night after leaving the village of Ardrah, we encamped in the bush, as night had. surprised us some ten miles from our proposed halting-place, and we declined the proffered hospitalities of the villagers. An open space was selected on the banks of a stream called the Bohmen, the waters of which were reported to confer eloquence upon all who drank of it. As a matter of course, it was frequently visited by the Asbantee

S'ORT IN ASHANI. Caboceers who, like all savages, were orators, and often spun out their yarns and speeches to an intolerable length. A series of fires were soon lighted by our people, as much to cheer the gloomy darkness as to drive off any prowling leopards which might be in our neighbourhood, "This is what may be called picnicking," said Fortescue; as he handed his pipe to be filled by Sackie. "How much more enjoyable to be here in the forests of Africa than stewing along the boulevards of Paris, or getting muddled in the biergartens of Germany, as is the fashion with some people ?" "There is a charm associated with bush-life which ever lures me to it, even when against the wishes of my friends," said I. "What is more glorious than the sight of these fair heavens spreading out above us, with the twinkling stars peeping at us in place of the damask bed-curtains of civilisation! Who would exchange our hammock-bed slung under the branches of this mighty tree for the best and most luxurious productions of Real and Sons ?" "Not I," said Fortescue. "Give me my gun and my health, and I leave the busy haunts of men without a sigh." Truly the sight presented by our encampment was a subject which would have delighted a to portray on his canvas. The huge cotton-trees stretching their gigantic limbs on every side, as though bidding defiance to the tornado, while their massive trunks were supported by triangular buttresses, so that they might be called the Gothic architecture of Nature. Beneath their unibrageous roof the fires of our company were lighted, the fitful flickering light dancing through the leaves and giving a weird shape to everything around, and throwing shadows with an intensity that made the forest beyond look black as Eblis itself. Round these fires groups of half-naked negroes were squatting in every conceivable attitude, smoking their pipes, dancing to the songs of their comrades, or listening to the tales of their fellowcountrymen as they recounted deeds of daring in the chase, or some superstitious legend connected with their past lives, for

MA GIC COOKER Y. every African's life is so mingled with the supernatural that he sets down to the efforts of the dwellers of spirit-land every phenomenon or occurrence for which he cannot assign a cause. It required but little stretch of the imagination to picture ourselves in the regions of Pluto, and to see his imps gathered round the fires upon which some ill-starred soul was suffering the torments of Hades. Our thoughts were brought back to the present by the sound of music, or, at least, of what passes for such, on our right. Looking up to ascertain the cause, we saw our gigantic Nimrod, whose proportions were magnified to those of a Titan by the quivering firelight, busily engaged in concocting some magic juju over the fire, while a group of eager lookers-on surrounded him, aiding in the ceremony by kicking up a, deafening noise on their drums and gong-gongs. "What is the fellow about?" said Fortescue; "up to some more of his fetiche, I expect. Suppose we join the crowd of spectators." "I think we had better keep away, so as not to disturb him. If we remain unobserved we shall see the ceremony ungarnished by extra ceremonials introduced to overawe us," I replied. "Not a bad idea. If we creep up to the next buttress of this immense tree, we can see without being seen." Arrived at our look-out, we saw Aziza cutting up some twigs into small pieces, and throwing them into an earthen pot which was sputtering on the fire. He then took a number of magic ingredients from the capacious depths of his "possible sack," amongst which we recognised the claws of a leopard, pieces of snake and crocodile skin, and similar valuabler. These were all thrown into the pot and carefully stirred by Aziza. "That is a perfect hell-broth, which would delight the hearts of Macbeth's witches," said Fortescue. "I suspect it is only half concocted yet," I replied; "but look out, he is coming towards us, and we may as well avoid offending him by his discovering us peeping like a couple of spies." SPORT IN ASIJANT. Our fears, however, were groundless, for Aziza, after advancing a few steps, picked up a fowl which had been lying under the shadow of a bush, and thus escaped our observation. "That poor thing is going to be sacrificed at the altar of superstition," said I. "fHow strong a hold their mystic faith must have over the minds of the people, can be gathered from the fact that in many instances when one of the poorer classes has obtained a fowl, he will offer it to his fetiche rather than prepare it for his own sustenance. Indeed, the lower you go in the scale of faith, the more bigoted are its votaries." "That is quite true, for I very much doubt if many of our Christian fellow- countrymen would practise such voluntary self. denial as these savages do; but hist! Aziza is speaking." Our hunter had carried the fowl to the side of his fire, and then standing erect, with one foot firmly planted before the other, and the fowl held out at arm's length, he commenced his address to Sampatan, the presiding deity of the forests. "Oh! thou most mighty Sampatan, who dwellest in the deep forests, who reignest supreme over the mighty lambola ( cotton) and over the lowly kaklaka (moss), at whose bidding the forest-trees throw off their leaves, or put on fresh robes of green, bend thine ear while Aziza, the hunter of the forest, supplicates thine aid. "Who causeth the trees of the forest to offer shelter to the pigeon and the guinea- fowl, where they may hide from the fierce beams of the mid-day sun, or sleep, gently rocked by the winds, while the rustle of the leaves sings their lullaby ? "Who giveth the thick bushes of aloetic or acacian shrubs? "Who causeth the kongona-tree to put forth its buds, and the simbana to blossom? Who, but thee, 0 Sampatan! "Thou puttest life into the pule-bushes, so that the buffalo, the eland, the kudu, and the bartbeest may rejoice in their tender shoots, while the long grass of the savannahs springs up to sustain the life of the antelope. "0 Sampatan! Aziza, the hunter, has made fetiche for thee times without end. Often and often has he chewed the magic

AZIZA'S INVOCA TION. twig, or bound fillets of the fetiche grass round his head and ankles. To thee he owes his success on the hunting-grounds, and his fame as a mighty hunter. "Aziza is now about to sacrifice to thee once more, and when the blood of the kokolo (fowl) shall be sprinkled on his gun and his knife, and his eyes and his bands, do thou make his gun quick and sure to shoot the beasts of thy forests, his knife keen that it may reach the hearts of the eland and the kudu, his eyes far- sighted that they may quickly discover the game upon the wide open plain or in the dark glades of the forest, and his hand strong and unnearved that it may strike swift to kill." Aziza's powerful voice rang out clear upon the midnight air, and his whole frame quivered with excitement. His eyes glared as if they would be inspired with a supernatural vision to enable them to see the sylvan deity to whom the prayer was addressed, while the froth gathering round his lips, and the dripping perspi. ration on his brow, testified to the sincerity and intensity of his feelings. The prayer being concluded amidst the solemn tap-tap of the big drum, he swung the fowl three times round his-head, and then holding it by the legs and body, and placing its head between his great toe and the next, a violent jerk severed the head from the body. The spurting blood was carefully received in a small wooden calabash, while the head was cautiously tied up in a scrap of white rag, and affixed to the already extensive collection of jujus which dangled to his waist-belt. His gun, his knife, and his cartridge belt were then laid on the ground and plentifully besprinkled with the sacrificial blood by means of a feather, and finally the sanguinary fluid was copiously besmeared on the hands and eyelids of our hunter, and thus the ceremony was brought to a conclusion. "Who would have thought that so skilful a hunter as Aziza, with the intelligence he evidently possesses, would be so degraded a victim to the all-powerful fetichism which hangs like a funereal pall over this benighted country," said Fortescue,

SPORT IN ASHANTI. "When a person has been brought up in the midst of superstition since childhood, it is a difficult matter to eradicate the impressions made upon the mind. Aziza evidently thinks that he has ensured the success of his hunting by the propitiatory offering to Sampatan." "Suppose we have his opinion on the matter," said Fortescue. "We will. Here, Sackie, go and tell Aziza we want to speak to him." Away flew Sackie with his usual reckless haste, knocking over a pile of calabashes which were standing near one of the fires to dry. Aziza soon made his appearance, his jubilant looks bearing evidence that his mind was happy in the thought that he had just performed a praiseworthy action. "Aziza is here; what do my masters wish." "You were making fetiche just now, Aziza," said Fortescue. "What good did you expect to reap from it ?" "White men do not understand these things," said he. "The great spirit of the sky has given them knowledge of many things of which we black men are ignorant, but he has kept them unacquainted with the mysteries of fetichism. Who caused me to be successful in the hunt P The great wood deity, Sampatan, and to him I have sacrificed that he may give me power to continue to hunt the buffalo, the elephant, and the antelope." "But do you not think that you owe a great deal to your own skill in the use of your gun ?" "What use would be my skill if my gun was bewitched, or if some other man had put fetiche upon it, so that it could not shoot straight? Sampatan will accept my fetiche, and I shall be still the great hunter of the Ashantees." "Then you believe that by sprinkling the blood of that fowl upon your gun, you impart to it the power of always hitting an object at which it is aimed?" "The powerful god Sampatan, if he accepts my offering, will put fetiche upon my gun, so that it cannot miss." "Then suppose you try to shoot one of those bats," said

AZIZA' S SUPERSTITION Fortescue, pointing to several of those creatures which were silently flying round the top of a tree near us. "White men do not 'savey' these things. They know how to make guns and powder and fine cloth, but the black man alone understands fetiche. If I shot the bat, you would say I did it through my own skill, and if I missed it, you would say I did it intentionally." "But if your gun is enchanted, it cannot miss." "Ah!" said Aziza, shaking his head ominously, "white men dont savey these things. Black men make fetiche and white men read books." "It seems utterly impossible to convince Aziza that his magical sprinkling has no effect upon the shooting powers of his gun," said I. "No, be was born a fetiche believer, and I fear he will die one." "So I am afraid; but it is a strange and unaccountable thing that all men, both civilized and savage, are prone to be superstitious." "That is true, and not only the timid and foolish, but even the fearless and most strong-minded succumb at times to fears which have no foundation except in their superstitious thoughts." "Yes, for example, no man cares particularly to prowl about a churchyard after dark, or to visit some church and inspect the coffins, however he may laugh at the fears of other people at such matters." "Ah! that brings a reminiscence of my school-days to my mind." "Well, give me the benefit of your experience; but wait an instant while Sackie refills my pipe." "iNow, fire away," said I, as Sackie held a red-hot brand to my pipe. "Well, you know, I received part of my education at A Like all school-boys I had my chums, and there were threeHarry Morton, Reginald Summers, and Joe Manton, who were my associates in every exploit, whether it was stealing pots of

SPORT IN ASHANTI. jam from the cook, fetching our balls out of old Johnny Peg's garden, or smuggling pea-shooters and such weapons of offence into school. "We all slept in one room, a large double-bedded one, at the eastern end of the school-house, immediately over the old doctor's bedroom, while below that was the kitchen. I am explicit in the geography of the place, so that you can understand the ghost story." "Oh ! it is a ghost story, is it ?" said I. "I thought you were very sceptical upon that point?" "So I am; but don't interrupt me again. "The conversation for several months past had turned upon ghosts and other supernatural creatures, and as Joe Manton was afflicted with an unlimited gift of the gab, and a powerful imagination, he had/so worked up our feelings, that we could scarcely have been more alarmed had a veritably saucer-eyed, whitesheeted ghost appeared in propridperson6. "'I'll tell you what, you fellows,' said Joe one night, after we had turned in, ' it's my firm belief that this house is haunted.' "' Haunted !' we exclaimed in a breath; ' have you ever seen a ghost since you have been here?' "'No, but I've heard one.' "'Tell us all about it! When was it?' we all asked, eager for information upon the subject, although we were shuddering at the thought that the ghost might walk in at any moment. "' Oh! it is too long a yarn; some other night I'll oblige you "Joe curled himself up and went off to sleep, and his example was not lost upon the rest of us. "The next night it was blowing a regular . The moon had sunk down near the horizon, where a dull streak of cold grey light showed where she ought to have been. The gigantic bats from the old towers were flitting hither and thither noiselessly, while a great owl which had been regaling itself upon some mice in Farmer Harris's barns, settled in the tall elm-tree close, by our window.

A GHOST STORY. "Suddenly an idea seemed to enter its head, for flapping its wings, it uttered, in a blood-curdling tone, "'Too-wheet-whoo, too-wheet-whoo!' "We all cowered under the bed-clothes at the unearthly sound, and listened. "' Tu-whoo-wheet 1' went the owl again, and our terror increased. "Just then a sharp tap at our window, caused most probably by a spray of the ivy which grew so luxuriously over that end of the school-house, made our flesh creep all over, and if nighteaps had been worn, they would certainly have been lifted up by our stiffening hair. "'What is that P' said Summers in a whisper, as a strange clanking noise, seeming to come up from the kitchen, fell upon our ears. "The noise continued, and its effects were not merely startling but truly horrifying, as we listened with dread lest we should hear more. "' Who's there P' called out the doctor from below, and in a few moments cook, housemaids, footmen, and boots were heard jumping out of bed as though they had been shot out by one of the patent anti-sluggard mattresses. "Such an array of bedgowned apparitions as met our gaze as we looked out on the staircase, I never shall forget; for, of course, we had all got up as soon as we heard the doctor's voice. Still the fearful clamour continued, although the terrified listeners could scarcely believe their ears. "'Did you hear thatP' said Harry, as a louder clash than usual was heard. "'Ye-es,' said Summers with a tremulous quiver in his voice; 'whatever can it be ? ' "' I shouldn't be surprised if some one hasn't committed murder in this house,' said Joe in a solemn manner, although he displayed far more courage than we had given him credit for, as he stood near the window.

SPORT IN ASHA NT. "' Oh, dear! I wish we had never come to this place,' said Summers, whose knees were knocking together alarmingly. "' I shall get into bed again,' he continued, his face looking so pale that it shone with a ghastly light in the glimmering moonlight. "We all followed his example with the exception of Joe, who still kept his station near the window. It's perhaps burglars,' said Manton. "'More likely the ghost,' suggested Harry. Oh, ghosts be hanged! I don't believe in ghosts,' said I. "' Don't you? Why, I know a fellow who-' "The following ghost story was here cut short by the speaker having his mouth suddenly stopped by a pillow which was thrown at him by Joe. "' You dry up! we don't want any of your yarns now. Get into bed or I'll warm you.' "'Why don't you get in yourself?' said Harry, adding in an undertone, ' I should like to see you do it.' "Meanwhile the head master was by no means idle. Like all men he had gone to bed unprepared for such an emergency and after a prolonged search for the lucifers, during which he nearly flattened his nose against the bed-post, he succeeded in obtaining a light. "With his nose dripping a sanguinary fluid, he seized the poker, and holding the candle high above his head, so as to throw a light around, he opened the door. "It was then that he uttered the 'Who's there?' which was heard by us in our bedroom. "At this juncture the mysterious sounds had ceased for a time, and the worthy doctor, clad in his night-shirt and slippers, stalked out into the passage. "Presently we heard a startled cry. 'Good Heavens! what's that?' and jumping out of bed in terror at the darkness, we joined the doctor below. "The apparition which bad startled the head master was the cook, who, enveloped in a snowy robe, stood before the doctor,

THE GHOST LAID. each having evidently mistaken the other for the ghost which was the cause of all the uproar downstairs. "' Who's there ?' said the doctor, in a vain attempt at a commanding voice. "'Please, sir, it's me,' said a female voice very faintly. "'And who's me ? Why, cook, is that you? Why didn't you say so before? I might have knocked your brains out with this poker, if I had come across you unawares. What is all this noise in the kitchen?' "' I don't know, sir. I can't make it out at all.' "'Very strange,' said the doctor. ' Have you, gentlemen, any idea of the cause of this extraordinary noise in the kitchen ?' said the head master, addressing the under masters who turned up at this moment. "' Not in the least, unless it is some cat which is imprisoned below. "' Cats !' said the cook, ' there isn't one of the brutes in the house.' -'Well, we must solve the mystery,' said the doctor, and followed by the under masters and the men servants, they disappeared downstairs, while we crept back again to bed. "The noise had by this time ceased, and shortly after we heard the doctor order the servants to bed, saying that he had laid the ghost. "In the morning the doctor announced that some mischievous person had tied a number of tin pots to some strings which were led through the window, and were evidently worked by some person outside. "The mysterious connection between Joe and the window was thus solved by us, and under pledge of eternal secrecy, he discovered the strings to us by means of which he had alarmed the whole household." "That's a first rate yarn," said I. "So that was the laying of your ghost ?" "It was; but the terror manifested by all of us was most

92 SPOR T IN A SHA NTI. fearful, and yet not one of us would have confessed in broad day. light his belief in ghosts. Such is the power of superstition upon the mind, that during the continuance of the noises, I don't believe one of us, excepting, of course, Joe, would have dared to venture out of i he room by himself."

CHAPTER IV. ARRIVAL AT COOMASSIE-TRIEVES HEADS-THE xiNGS INTERPRETERAN ASHANTEE MANSION-PRESENT FROM THE KING- A HUMAN SACRIFICE. OuR halt for the next night was at the village of Agogon, and the next morning we crossed the marshy land which insulates Coomassie, and at noon entered the capital of Ashanti, our guide Melinda having preceded us a few hours to give notice of our arrival. Scarcely were we within the precincts of the town than we had abundant evidence of the sanguinary practices of the people. On the right, fixed at the end of a long pole, a human head grinned horribly at us, while several vultures were busily engaged in their work of destruction upon it. Turning to Aziza, Fortescue asked the meaning of so fearful a spectacle. "Oh !" said he, with the greatest sang froid, "that is only the head of a thief." "And do they stick up the heads of all thieves in this manner?" continued Fortescue. "As many as are caught, and who are unable to make restitu. tion of the stolen property."

SPORT IN ASRANTZ "Why, there is another of the ghastly scarecrows," said Fortescue, pointing down a street to our left. " Plenty live in this town," said Aziza. "By-and-by, if we stop here long time, we shall see plenty of men's heads stuck on poles." "Then I sincerely hope our stay will be of the shortest possible duration. But what is this impish-looking affair ?" The object which called forth this remark was a monstrous parody on a human being made of clay, with great saucer eyes and a gaping mouth, while its hideousness was considerably augmented by streaks of various colours with which its whitewashed face was besmeared. "That is Ogligba, the god of children," said Aziza. "S'pose you want plenty of children, you make fetiche to this god, and he give you plenty." "And are the children anything like their deity? because, if so, I would rather remain childless than be the putative father of such a race. Why, an army of such ugly monsters would frighten away any enemies who approached near enough to get a full view of their features. But who have we here- ?" At this moment a caboceer dressed in full war paint made his appearance. The amount of gold which he carried about his person in the shape of ornaments must have weighed nearly two pounds, while his sword and stool-bearers, who bore those emblems of office, had nearly as much of the precious metal under their guardianship. A gorgeous umbrella of bright colours, with some very heraldic animals upon it by way of ornament, shielded the caboceer from the rays of the sun, and a female ,lave kept the atmosphere cool in the neighbourhood of her master by the vigorous waving of a brass fan, while she assiduously u.oi'e off the unheeding flies with a small whip of horsehair. "This is Mingoten, the king's interpreter. He has come to pay us a visit." No sooner had he uttered these words than down upon his marrow-bones went Aziza and all our carriers, leaving us standing;

COOM.ASSIR. alone in the middle of a sea of waving arms and flying dust, as they vigorously shovelled the red sand over their heads in token of homage to the great man. "What a couple bf fools we look standing in the middle of these servile creatures! I wonder whether it would be a breach of etiquette to ask the great gun how he is P" "Wait a moment until the dust has somewhat subsided, for I feel nearly choked," said I. After smothering himself with the red sand until he looked like a Sioux Indian, Aziza stood up and introduced us to the iuterpreter somewhat in this fashion. "This is Fok6su," slapping Fortescue on the back with a violence that nearly knocked him down; "he comes to Ashanti to hunt. He is a great man in the white man's country. He will be glad if Koffee Kalkalli, the great king, will permit him to travel through his kingdom. He is no trade man to make palavers wifh the king and his people, but a ' tame '" man." Mlingoten replied to this speech by a grunt and a contemptuous nod of his head, as though everything out of Ashanti were utterly beneath his notice. As Aziza turned to introduce me, I was wondering if he would treat me to as friendly a slap as he had Fortescue, but he varied the monotony by violently jerking my hand to the front as he said' "iDanvers, Fokbsu's friend, who shoots elephants and leopards; he begs Koffee Kalcalli to allow him to go in peace through his country." Aziza here was about to finish, but Mingoten, pointing to Richards and Stuart, who stood by with gaping eyes and mouth, said, "Who are the other two white men? Are they great hunters, and do they with to travel through King Koffee's country ?" "They are the servants of the other two white men." "You mean they are the white men's slaves." "No, not slaves, but servants. White men do not keep siaves. * By a tame man Aziza meant a quiet, inoffensive person,. who would not impose upon any one.

SPORT IN ASHANTI. They pay wages to their poorer countrymen to be servants to them." "White men are fools. Why do they not keep slaves ? Why should they pay wages to people wl-en they can get their work done for nothing?" "Englishmen do not think it right that one man should be the same as a beast of burden to his master, so they never make slaves," said Fortescue, through the medium of Aziza. The interpreter shook his head with a grunt of disapproval of the white man's policy, and turning to one of his followers, who stood at his back beneath the shade of his immense umbrella, gave some orders in a low tone. Presently a slave appeared staggering under the weight of an umbrella made of white calico, with blue heads and red knives upon each alternate lappet, while -the top of the pole was ornamented with a rude carvitg of a lion painted green. "What a handy parasol," said Fortescue, with a grin, as the bearer rested the end of the pole on the ground, and then aided by two others, opened the wooden ribs and unfolded a canopy some fifteen feet in diameter. We were invited to the welcome shade of this umbrella, which was set up close to that of the caboceer, being held by a couple of very grvasy and odoriac niggers behind us. "What is the next thing on the boards, I wonder ?" said Fortescue, as a train of about a dozen slaves appeared, each with a load on his head. As these arrived at the chief's umbrella they were unloaded by the attendants, and one tall fellow with a pair of ivory bracelets on his wrists, which would have made splendid knuckle-dusters, directed the unswathing of the loads. The opening of the first package disclosed a small card-table, very much the worse for wear. This was set up between the caboceer and ourselves, and the contents of the other packages placed upon or around it. First a decanter of rum, of course, then half-a-dozen of bright coloured liqueurs, followed by a cruet-stand with thQ THE KING'S IN TERPR5TER. whole of the bottles filled with some curious stuff of a blue colour. "I wonder if the fellows expect us to drink some of all these mixtures," said I, "because, if they do, we shall certainly have to be carried off the field, for these liqueurs are fearfully intoxicating, and only fit for the stomach of an ostrich or a nigger." "Oh! we will try to put off as many as possible," said Fortescue, "but what on earth can that blue-ink looking stuff be for in the cruets ?" "Time will show. It never will do to be impatient about any. thing niggers have to do with, for they always seem to think that a minute or an hour is of equal unimportance." All being placed in order, a gaudy cloth was spread over the bottles on the table, and a couple of calabashes of water set out before us. Mingoten then arose from the curiously-carved stool upon which he had been sitting during the preparation, and jerking a few dozen bracelets up towards his elbows so as to give more freedom to his actions, began a stump oration. "Mingoten, the interpreter of Koffee Kalcalli, the great king" (here all the assembly fell down upon their knees and went through their dirt bath with a vigour worthy of a better cause), "bids the white man welcome to Coomassie. He has heard their palaver and will think of it, and will tell the great king" (moro dirt showers) "that the white men are hunters, who wish to shoot elephants and lions in the forest. "Let them drink water to cool their hearts, so that they may bear no ill-will towards the great king" (another sand storm) "or his people. Let them take fetiche that they will make no palavera with the people or the king" (dust flying again), "and all may be well. "Mingoten, however, is but an ant-hill before the king" (dirt as usual), "who is a great mountain, and he, therefore, cannot say what his master's wishes may be on the subject. Neverthe. less, he will give a good report of the white men, provided that they come to Goomassie with good presents."

SPORT IN ASHANTI. The speech concluded by the interpreter bowing to the earth and touching it with his forehead, where the red soil left a mark which Fortescue said reminded him of the spot on the foreheads of the immortals of Laputa. A perfect avalanche of dirt was then heaved about by the attendants, and it was some minutes before the dutiful subjects of King Koffee could scrape sufficient out of their eyes to enable them to see. "What a glorious reyenue a tax on hair powder would raise in this country !" said I to Fortescue. " Yes; and I should think that if mustard and cress seed were sprinkled in the wool of any of these coves, it would soon give us a salad." As soon as the Ashantee attendants had scooped the dirt out of their eyes, the cloth which covered the table was removed, and Mingoten, lifting one of the calabashes of water to his thick lips, motioned to us to imitate him. "Teetotalers would rejoice at such a welcome as this," said Fortescue, as he tasted the water. "Yes, just as much as they would be disgusted at its termination," said I. The water being duly imbibed to cool our hearts, as Mingoten said, the stronger liqueurs were poured out with lavish hand in tumblerfuls. Had we drunk one tithe of that which was presented to us, we should soon have been intoxicated, but fortunately Ashantee etiquette only required us to taste the liquor after bowing to the chief, and we were then at liberty to offer it to the nearest bystander, who never had any scruples -of conscience as to the quantity he was imbibing. During this ceremony the private band of Mingoten enlivened us with its discord, while afeu d'enfer of musketry clouded us in its sulphurous covering of thick smoke. All this time the cruet frame had remained intact, and we bad begun to wonder whether it was merely a show affair, when Mingoten motioned to his butler to place the cruets near him. We then saw by his looks that this was evidently the crowning

ENTRANCE TO THE CAPITAL. glory of the welcoming ceremony. Mingoten took the mustardpot, while two of the bottles were placed in our hands, leaving the pepper-castor in the frame. The smell was like cloves as we raised the liquor to our lips in the unusual receptacles, but the taste-ugh !-it was like syrup of molten lead; a thick, sweet, fiery fluid, one tea-spoonful of which would have choked us. With eyebrows screwed up, and gasping for breath, Fortescue and I looked askance at each other as Mingoten drained his mustard-pot to the last teaspoonful, the lid falling with an unpleasant "flop" on his flat nose. I thought that his throat must have been certainly lined with cast-iron to have enabled him to swallow such a villanous mixture. We disposed of the contents of our cruets pro forma', and then Mingoten took up the pepper-castor, and beckoning to his head man, that worthy went down on his marrow bones and suffered the cerulean fluid to be rained down his cavernous throat through the perforated top of the pepper castor. We could not refrain from smiling at this ludicrous spectacle, for the sight of the opened mouth of the head man strongly reminded one of that of a dolphin in its capacious ugliness. By this time the sun had begun to decline towards the treetops to the westward, and we were by no means sorry when the interpreter gave the signal for our baggage to be taken up to our quarters, whither he proceeded to escort us amidst the curioui gaze and pertinent remarks of the assembled crowds. The sight of the capital, as we passed through street after street, was by no means imposing. The houses were mostly built of wattle and dab, or of swish* only, often whitewashed or otherwise coloured, with a high pitched roof of thatch, which usually projected several feet before the doorway so as to form a verandah. The streets were wide, but, as in all African towns, * The red soil of the country puddled into a clayey paste, so as to be capable of being moulded into round isllets like dumplings, is called * Owisb."

100 SPOPR Ir ASZANTI. were worn into ruts, like wheel-tracks, by the constant friction of the naked feet of the townspeople as they followed one another in single file down a road as wide as Regent Street. At every corner we saw a large fetiche god rudely fashioned out of swish, with a filthy mass of offerings before it, while a heterogeneous collection of bird's skulls, leopard's claws, feathers, etc., slung over the doorways, kept off all evil from the inmates. Some of the houses had courtyards attached, these belonging to persons of some means, but all had a very huddled up, unwholesome appearance, which the frequent occurrence of large trees in the midst of a cluster of houses scarcely alleviated. We passed through a market-place where the babel was terrific, as the various buyers and sellers, mostly of the female sex, haggled over their maize-pudding, plantains, cloth, dye-stuffs, rum, calabashes, fruit, water, or firewood; while the din was aug. mented by the cackling of fowls, the quacking of ducks, the grunting of pigs, and, high over all, the loud braying of the trumpets of the market guards. A walk of a few minutes brought us to a gateway whose lintel was decorated with a crucified fowl, beneath whose odoriferous corpse we entered the dwelling wherein we were to take up our sojourn while we stayed at Coomassie. A brief description of it will give the reader an idea of what the better classes of houses in Ashanti are like. A high wall, built partly of swish and partly of wattling, surrounded a space of about four acres. Within this enclosure several party walls of similar construction divided the enceinte into a series of courts, those nearest the gate being alloted to the household slaves; those next, to the store-houses; while the central portion contained the harem and private residence of the owner. The main building was alloted to our use, since the owner was away in charge of a party of soldiers who had been sent to punish the insubordination of one of the towns on the western frontier. Unlike the other buildings, it was of two storeys i4

AN ASHANTEE MANSION. height. The floor of the upper chamber was supported by strong rafters, and entrance was effected by a rude staircase. A row of square holes with wooden shutters admitted light to the apartments, for the upper floor consisted of several rooms partitioned off by wattled walls of bamiiboo. "This is a pleasant change after the vile huts we have been lodged in for the last week," said Fortescue, throwing himself down upon a bamboo couch which, covered with a fine grass mat, invited repose. "We have evidently made an impression upon his Majesty, but I expect we shall be made to pay for it. Savages, as a rule, are well up in the tactics of throwing sprats to catch mackerel." "So long as lie doesn't detain us against our will, I should not object to a short stay in Coomassie, just to get an insight into the customs of the people," said Fortescue. "i've no doubt we shall stay here quite long enough. Time is not of the slightest importance in this uncivilised country." During this interval our carriers had been busily engaged unpacking our goods in the courtyard below, and, as is usual upon such occasions, the noise was uproarious. Everybody wanted to get his load off first, and as a natural consequence, everybody was twice as long unloading as there was any need of if they bad taken matters easily. Mingoten, after seeing us comfortably installed within our house, had set off for the palace to deliver our message to King Koffee, and to report upon our appearance. About sunset Aziza came rushing into our presence, followed by Melinda, who was dressed in full fig, with gold ornaments, fetiches, breastplate, rings, and other finery. Falling upon his knees, he touched the floor with his forehead, and then placing the palms of his hands together in a praying attitude, announced the approach of Mingoten to us, bearing a message from the king together with a present. The loud braying of horns and ting-tanging on gong-gongs, accompanied by the incessant rub-a-dub of numerous drums, announced the approach of the royal messenger, and scarcely had 101

SPORT IN ASHANTI. we completed the arrangement of our toilettes than two stalwart fellows stalked into the room bearing long sticks plated with gold in their bands, with which they tapped the doors, walls, floor, and ourselves, thereby consecrating us, as it were, to the service of the king for the time being. After the "gold sticks" came a number of slaves with calabashes of various cooked provisions, roast, boiled, fried, stewed, and baked. Goats, sheep, fowls, ducks, and pigs were the principal dishes, together with maize-pudding and an indescribable stew, which was so highly seasoned with pepper that it severely burnt our throats when we tasted it. Then came Mingoten himself, who, after bowing to the earth, presented us with an ounce of gold apiece, and told us that his Majesty was pleased that we had not come with any palaver, but that we must stay in our houses until he had thought over the matter. He could not think that white men would come to his country for the sole purpose of hunting, and must consult his fetiche people ere he allowed us to proceed northwards. "Here's a pretty go," said Fortescue. " Detained in prison, as it were, until King Koffee sees fit to release us." "Don't get impatient! No doubt all will quickly be settled by Melinda. You must not expect to travel through such a country as Ashanti with the same celerity as you would do in Europe." "What are the gold sticks m aiting for?" asked he, as these two worthies remained behind, loitering about and eyeing us with curious looks. "Oh! I expect they are on the look-out for a glass of grog. These fellows are ever ready to get drunk at other peoples' expense; the highest dignitaries in the land not excepted." " Give the officers a glass of rui apiece," said Fortescue to Sackie. "Did you notice," he continued, "how their eyes glistened as their ears caught the word rum." The two gold sticks gulped down the fiery spirit as though. it were water, and after a low obeisance disappeared. During the night our slumbers were disturbed by the scamper. 1O2

A R U.MIAN SA CRIFICE. ing of scores of rats through the rafters of our bedroom, while enormous bats flitted in at one window and out of the opposite one in their eager pursuit of insects which, doubtless attracted by our light, were buzzing around the ceiling in considerable numbers. Luckily both Fortescue and I had provided ourselves with mosquito curtains, otherwise we should have had a continuous fight with these bloodthirsty little plagues, for they swarmed throughout the house, and the vigorous slappings with which the half-awakened negroes sought to drive off their tormentors showed us that thick as was their skin, it was not sufficiently coriaceous to withstand the ponctrating powers of the insect. The next day was a nonentity, for with the exception of a visit from Mingoten, who brought us a supply of provisions but no message, we had no communication with the outer world. During the second night we were kept awake by the dismal tones of a large drum, which was beaten at frequent infervals, and whose notes, as they reverberated amongst the house-tops, proclaimed the death knell of some poor victim who was being offered a sacrifice to some fetiche superstition or other. "What a fearful state of existence it must be in Coomassie where any person is liable to be accused of witcheraft, or of making fetiche against the king, and thereupon is dragged away to torture or perhaps to death!" "Nevertheless, the constant familiarity with such scenes renders the people perfectly callous and indiflerent to them," said I. "Truly, an Ashantee is brought up in such continual presence of death that he ought to fight to the last gasp against overwhelminig odds." "So he does. Indeed, one of the military laws of Ashanti states that any soldier refusing to fight shall suffer death." "I wonder what horrible rite is being performed." "Perhaps it is something in connection with our visit, for in a country where human life is so little valued, the sacrifice of a few men to propitiate the deities would be of little importance." 103 SP OR T IN A SHA NTI "Heaven grant that it may not be so. I should always blame myself for being the agent, unconscious though it were, of the death of any human being." "I fear that your scruples on that score will be greatly modified ere we reach England again. Human life is too little thought of for much palaver to be made at its sacrifice, and one gets hardened to it after a time, even though one's feelings revolt at such a state of mind." "I hope the hardening process will be a very lengthy one in my case," said Fortescue. In the morning Mingoten came to tell us that the king had sacrificed two men to the fetiche, and had received a favourable answer. In a few days, therefore, he would receive us at the palace, after which he would permit us to travel northwards. We thanked his Majesty for his kindness, and made a present of a Sneider rifle to the interpreter, by the acquisition of which his heart was opened towards us, and he swore eternal friendship to us, and promised to aid us by every means that lay in his power. In the evening he sent us several calabashes of food, together with a dozen fowls, as many ducks, and a live bullock, the presentation of food being the national method of showing good-will. 104

CHAPTER V. MPENGALA, KING OF THE YAURAURI-THE PRINCESS AWOONA-KING SALAMAII'S PALAVER WITH THE RABBAORI- THEIR DEFEAT-VISIT OF SALAMAH TO MPENGALA-PRNCE MELINDA-WOONA BETROTHED. FAR away to the north-west, on the shores of the Niger, the little kingdom of Yaurauri was peaceably governed by Mpenga]a its king. For many generations the Mvfpengala family bad sat on the stool, each ruling his subjects with a mild sway which rendered the monarch a beloved person in the hearts of all his people. Although only a few hundred miles in area, the kingdom of Yaurauri was one of the most luxuriant in Western Africa. Wide fields of maize waved in successive billows before the breeze, while the fruitful plantain and mellow banana flourished round every house. The millet patches, carefully tilled, yielded an abundant harvest, and the yams and sweet potatoes only required the rudest husbandry to present their owner with a grateful crop. Oranges, ripe, bursting, and luscious, limes fragrant and refreshing, papaws, quashes, mangoes, pineapples, and similar fruits, grew in profusion on every hand, while the graceful cocoa-nut shaded each cottage with its long fern-like leaves.

SPOR T IN ASHANTI. In the proper season the maids and matrons of each village repaired to the cotton fields where they gathered an abundant supply of that necessary article from the hand of Nature herself, and during the rainy season employed themselves in weaving the cloth for the household use or dyeing it with native indigo. The males of each household fished on the broad bosom of the Niger, or hunted in the depths of the forest. Game of every description abounded,-antelopes-those graceful creatures which are ever the theme of the poet's song,-the wild pig, the crafty leopard, the lordly lion, and the sagacious elephant, all were there ready to succumb to the weapons of the courageous hunter. In the evenings, after the customary meal, all the villagers assembled near the house of the chief, where, seated round a huge fire, they recounted the perils of the chase and the current gossip, or at other times danced to the sound of the drum till the grey dawn appeared. Happiness reigned supreme. The country was of too little importance to excite the cupidity of its more powerful neighbours, while as yet the white trader, with his tempting wares, had not pushed on so far up the Niger. All was peaceful; the fruitful soil yielded a plenteous harvest to the rudest husbandry, while the simple wants of the natives were abundantly supplied from the lavish hand of Nature. Of war they had the greatest dread; and having lived so long at peace with their neighbours, they had become lulled into a sense of security which was destined to be suddenly destroyed. Having no opportunities wherein to .cultivate a warlike spirit, they had neglected their martial education, and when after a lengthened period of quiet, the fierce fires of war were let loose over the country, they found them totally unprepared and incapable of offering the least resistance to overcome what other. wise would have been an insignificant enemy, Let the advocates of reduction of national expenditure for defence take warning by the fate of the Yaurauris, and learn that the surest method of preserving peace is to prepare for war. Mpengala had io6

THE PRIVCESS ,4 WOONA.7 several wives and many children, but of all his family Awoona, the daughter of his wife Quabnoo, was the most beloved. Tall, graceful, with well-rounded limbs, and a figure that would have been the envy of many a civilised belle, Awoona had grown up as one of Nature's children. Her complexion was coppercoloured rather than black, and the Moorish blood of her father had given a regular cast to her features which made her face known as the loveliest among all the Yaurauri maidens. Her hair, raven black, hung in thick folds round her small head, being confined by a cincture of leather dyed bright scarlet and ornamented with small shells, little golden stars, and beads, while her head was surmounted by a tall eagle's feather. When she smiled she revealed a set of teeth of pearly whiteness, and a glow of pleasure lit up her whole countenance, and her dimpled cheeks seemed to burst with pleasure. Although the daughter of the king, she was simply dressed in a cotton robe which reached to the ankles and was loosely confined round the waist by a leather girdle, while it scarcely covered the swelling bosom which was heaving up and down with the exertion of a race with one of her companions from which she had just returned victorious. As we saw her standing at the doorway of her father's house she presented a picture of one of Nature's princesses, the symmetry of her figure being unassisted by art, and by its graceful outlines showing that the restraints imposed by fashion are but hindrances to the development of what would otherwise ever be a pleasing contour. Though not yet sixteen, Awoona has Lad many suitors. Old men of high rank have longed to add this queen to their harem, while younger ones have aspired to plant this tender tree in their homes. Old Mpengala, however, looked upon them all with indifference. No matter how large a dowry was offered, he still refused to part with Awoona, his darling child, and many a disappointed suitor was turned away from his doors. Awoona is young as yet. Why should she be in a hurry to leave her father's house? She is happy in her home; the maidens, 107

SPORT IN ASHANTI. her companions are happy, and why should shs leave her aged father ? Old Kpataka, the prime minister of Mpengala, was ever anxious to induce the king to give Awoona to one of the sons of the chiefs in marriage, as by so doing he would still further endear himself in the hearts of the people, but Mpengala still turned a deaf ear. "Wait till Awoona herself chooses a partner, it will then be time to consider if the match will be an advantageous one or not." "It is not good for young girls to have everything their own way," said Kpataka, "they get headstrong and selfish, and when they are married do not make contented wives. They ought to be married early and to the man of their father's choice " What you say is quite true, Kpataka, and in accordance with the universal custom, but Awoona has been my favourite child and without she loves the person I intend for her husband, she shall not be married to him." Kpataka remained silent, but the cloud on his brow evidently showed that he did not understand so incomprehensible a thing as allowing a girl to have a say in so important a matter as the choice of a husband. At this moment Awoona approached to attend upon her father at the evening meal. The stews and roasts were deftly handed to the old king, who, looking into the melting eyes of his daugh. ter, thought that he would be a happy man for whom they should be illumined with the fires of love. "My father is thoughtful this evening," said Awoona; "he does not praise the cookery of Quahnoo as he is wont, neither does he talk to his favourite child as he usually does. Has Awoona offended her father that he is silent ? " "Thy father is not offended with thee or thy mother, neither is thy skill in cooking stews behind its wont, but I am sore troubled on thy account." "Why is my father troubled for me, have I done aught that has displeased him ?" 108

MPEAGALA AzD A WO ONA. "Nothing, my daughter; nevertheless I am troubled for thee. Listen, and I will tell thee the source of my anxiety. Thou knowest that thou art growing up to womanhood and that in a short time thou must take a husband to thyself; many of the young men of our tribe have sought thy hand, but as none of the suitors met with thy approbation they were all sent empty. handed away. Thy heart is yet free as that of the eagle, thou hast not yet met with thy mate." As the old king uttered these words, a close observer might have noticed a ruddy glow creep over the cheeks of Awoona and her bosom heave with increased emotion. It was evident that the heart of Awoona was not quite free from the tender passion, although perhaps she herself scarcely knew what was the meaning of that fluttering within her bosom. "Kpataka, the minister," continued the king, "has often given me wise counsel, often has he suggested good and clever things for my guidance at the head of state affairs; he is a faithful ser. vant of his king, and Mpengala is grateful. "Kpataka wishes thee to marry one of the young chiefs of our nation, so as to increase the goodwill which my people feel towards me. Thou knowest, Awoona, that thy old father loves thee above all his other children; speak, tell me hast thou any choice among the young men of the country ?" For some moments Awoona was silent, communing with her secret thoughts. At length she said, "How soon can my father's love change towards his daughter! But yesterday and she was as the life-blood in his heart; sooner would he have thought of opening his veins and letting his blood be spilt on the ground as have thought of sending Awoona away. To-day all is changed; her father is vexed in spirit and wishes Awoona to choose one of the young chiefs that she may leave her father's house. "Awoona is happy in her father's home, why should she break up the even course of her life ? Look at the little rills of the forest; so long as they run smoothly they run clear, but if we place stones in the stream it splashes and dashes about, and stirs up the mud so that it is no louer fit for drinking. log

SPORT IN ASIIVTI Awoona's life has been like the course of the forest rill, why should she put stones in her stream to stir up the mud ?" "Mpengala is glad to hear Awoona say that she has been happy in her father's horne, but why should she not be happy in the home of a husband ? All women must marry, and it is but fit that the daughter of a great king should mate with the chiefs of her tribe." "Urge me not, my father, in this case. Let me wait awhile ere I leave thee; when the proper time arrives Awoona will give her hand to a chief, but I pray thee let me remain as I am a little longer." "Thy father will always be loth to part with thee, for thou hast ever been the sunshine of his home; nevertheless, let it be as thou wishest; we will not talk any more of this subject. Fill my pipe with the best tobacco and then retire to thy couch." To the north of Mpengala's kingdom was the country of Salamah, King of Zoglogbomey. Salamah and Mpengala were old friends; ofttimnes had they visited each other's capitals and hunted in the forests together. Salamah was at the time we speak of in considerable anxiety as to the issue of a quarrel with the Rabbarori, who lived on the opposite bank of the Niger. The origin of the feud was the abduction of one of the Zoglogbomey women from her home by one of the IRabbarori men. Her parents had demanded her immediate restitution, and the friends of the abductor had as resolutely refused to deliver her up. Byand-by the quarrel increased to such a pitch that it reached the ears of the king, who thereupon demanded the restoration of the damsel, and a heavy fine as compensation for the insult. The IRabbarori refused to comply, and sent word to Salamah that if he wanted the girl he must come and fetch her. Several palavers were held, in which the Rabbarori tried to overrule the more peaceful Zoglogbomis, and, as they were a powerful tribe, Salamah was anxious to avoid a quarrel; but when our story opens there had been several skirmishes between the Zoglog. Ito

KI1VG SALAMA-. IH bomis and the Rabbarori, and Salamah felt that for the honour of his throne he must fight. An army was gathered together, and having crossed the Niger one dark night, they fell upon the village wherein the offender lived, and, after killing many of the inhabitants, carried off several prisoners. These were kept in confinement by Salamah, who hoped by their ransom to recoup himself for the expenses of the war, and as there was one of the children of the king among them, he thought that the quarrel might be settled without further bloodshed. The next day a great palaver was held, and the dispute ended by the Rabbarori delivering up the offender to the justice of Salamab, and the payment of a large quantity of cloth as a recompense for the expense they had put the King of Zoglogbomey to. About a week after this palaver Mpengala was roused from his afternoon's nap by the sound of drums and horns, and a messenger being despatched to ascertain the cause, he learned that Salamah, the King of the Zoglogbomis, had arrived to pay his respects to Mpengala, and to receive his congratulations upon the favourable issue of his quarrel with the Rabbarori. Mpengala advanced to meet his friendly neighbour with every expression of pleasure, and, after exchanging their mutual salutations, conducted him to his palace, giving orders to his attendants that the followers of Salamah should be comfortably housed and fed. Salamah was a tall muscular person, somewhat past the prime of life, but with his fiery spirit still unquenched, and the vigour of his constitution scarcely depreciated. He was dressed in a loose robe of light blue cotton cloth fringed deeply with crimson, while over his shoulders a splendid leopard skin hung loosely towards his left side; a fillet of beads confined his locks, and bracelets, necklaces, and anklets of beads, rings, and similar articles completed his costume. In his left hand he carried a long spear with a tuft of leopard skin below the head, while it curiously-carved stick was held in the right, Behind him came III[ 'Ix SPORT IN ASHAI T7. his son, a slim youth about eighteen yearn of age, whose agile movements and flashing eye betokened maturing strength and fiery disposition which would qualify him to succeed to the stool of his fathers when his time should arrive. A long cloak of grass cloth embroidered with beads and shell-work fell from his shoulders, while a tunic and drawers of snow-white cotton and a few bead ornaments constituted his entire dress ; he carried a short dagger in his belt, and a small but deadly bow with its accompanying arrows was slung over his left shoulder. Such was Melinda the Zoglogbomey prince. As soon as Salamah and his son, with their attendants, were seated within the great hall of the palace, Mpengala summoned his servants to bring water wherewith to pledge eternal friendship with his esteemed guests, and afterwards the more stimulating palm-wine, pitto, a kind of beer, and other native beverages. These were served by the attendants of Mpengala, the floor being the only table, while a mat spread out constituted the only resting-place. In the midst of the scene Awoona came bounding in, having been unaware of the arrival of the king by reason of her absence on one of the royal plantations. No sooner did she catch sight of the followers of Salamnah than she halted in her course and, glancing round, modestly retired behind the screen in front of which her father sat. Shel. tered by its friendly shadow she could see without being seen, and, from the frequency of her glances towards Melinda, it was evident that she regarded him with more than ordinary interest. Nor did Melinda seem one whit behind Awoona in the ardency of his looks, for his eyes were constantly directed towards the place where Awoona sat, and whenever her eyes met his she dropped her long lashes, and the tell-tale blood mounted to her cheeks, tingeing them of a deeper hue. In truth, Melinda and Awoona had known each other from childhood. They had been playmates on the frequent occasions whenever their parents met, and, although no outspoken word had passed between them, the most indifferent observer could

PRINCE .ME L NDA. H not but be aware that they were attached to each other by tics stronger than those of mere friendship. In vain had the young men of her tribe wooed the lovely daughter of Mpengala,--she heeded them not. In vain did they emulate each other in deeds of daring in the chase or in the athletic games in the evenings, in the hope of gaining a smile from the gentle Awoona. She dealt out her favours on every hand without distinction or preference,' and not even the most sanguine of the Yaurauri youths could sn that she had encouraged him in his advances; her heart long ago unknowingly went out to the young prince of Zoglogbomey, and, though she scarcely knew why, she was unaffected by the deeds or words of the young men of her own people. Nor was Melinda more influenced by the sunny smiles or amorous looks of the young maidens of his nation than was Awoona by the youths of hers ; he eagerly longed for the time to arrive for the periodical visits to Salamab, and chafed with impa. tience as the days wore slowly on. Upon the present occasion he was in unusually good spirits as he had slain three elephants with his own hand, and had brought the ivory to lay before Awoona as a preliminary to the present he would give her as a dowry if she would bestow her hand upon him. He had but small fear of being refused from the damsel herself, and the long-continued friendship of his father with Mpengala was a guarantee that the match would be looked upon with favourable eyes by the parents on both sides. Meanwhile a feast had been prepared under the superinten. dence of the wives of Mpengala, which was served up in the large hall, and the guests fell to with a determination to do ample justice to the good cheer set before them. The daughters of the king vied with each other in paying attention to the wants of the royal guests, and Awoona was unre. mitting in her service upon Melinda, whose tender looks amply repaid her for her trouble. The feast over, dancing commenced and was continued till a late hour, when, at length, wearied out of being amused, both 113

SPORT IN ASH4NTI. guest and host sought the needful repose on their mat couches. During the dances Melinda had managed to say a few words to Awoona, intimating to her that on the morrow his father would ask Mpengala to give her to him as a wife for his son. She blushingly acknowledged the pleasure she felt in being so honoured, and then, bidding Melinda adieu, hurried off to the apartments of the women. In the morning Mpengala and Salamah held a long palaver together on the subject of the Rabbarori defeat, and the probabilities of their repeating the insult. "My brother is a great king," said Mpengala, "but the Rabbarori are all warriors; they are more than four times as numerous as the Zoglogbomis and the Yaurauri put together, and it behoves us to be careful, lest we give offence to them. We have hitherto lived at peace with them, but latterly the white traders near the Great Sea have brought up fire-guns and strong drink and fine cloths, and they are so anxious to buy them, that they hardly scruple to do anything so long as they can obtain the fine goods." "1Mpengala speaks true. The Rabbarori are formidab]e enemies,but we do not fear them; we have never meddled with their palavers, and why should they pick a quarrel with us ? I do not think they will attempt to renew the war after the defeat I inflicted upon them last moon." "The Rabbarori are a subtle people; they may not return against us yet, but their anger sleeps a long while, and perhaps when they obtain plenty of fire-guns from the white people they will make a sudden descent upon us, and either kill us or sell us as slaves." "We will be on our guard against them; but let us dismiss such thoughts from our minds, as I have other matters to speak of." "Say on, friend Salamab, I Am patiently listening." "You know, good Mpengala, that we have been friends ever since we were boys, and used to wrestle together on the sand ; we were always as two brothers, and when we grew up our Z14

AWOONA'S DOWRY. friendship grew with us, and no palaver has arisen between us.19 "True, 0 Salamah! we have always been of one heart; no bad palaver has ever been between you and I, and I sincexely hope none ever will." "So do I, Mpengaia. You know that my son Melinda is now eighteen summers old; he is tall and strong, and has shown already that he is fit to sit on the stool of the Kings of Zoglogbomey. But last moon be went out with our hunters and slew three elephants with his own hand; truly Melinda is a brave boy. Now it is right that he should take a wife from a family worthy to be the consort of the future King of Zoglogbomey; many of the damsels of our nation have looked with favourable eye upon Melinda, but none of them have moved his heart. In truth it went out long ago to his young playmate Awoona, and to her he has sent this present of ivory; he begs me to intercede with you for her hand in marriage, and promises three times as much ivory, besides cloth in abundance, as a dowry for her. For my part I will gladly pay the price you set upon her."* "Your words are pleasant to my ears. I knew that ere long Awoona must wed, and thought that it would be some of the chiefs of her own people. Right glad am I that Melinda has asked for her, for it gives me more pleasure than I can express to give Awoona to him; by this means we shall bind ourselves closer together in the friendship which has lived so long between Us.$, "Such are my thoughts; but what dowry do you ask for her ? " "Give me but wherewithal to furnish the marriage feast, and Awoona shall marry Melinda; between friends there should be no palaver, therefore I ask not a large price for her." 0 It is the universal practice in Africa for the husband to purchase the wife; if she prove unfaithful to hiu the restitution of the dowry is demanded from her parents. lis

116 SPORT IN ASHANTI. "Good. You shall have the means of furnishing such a feast as shall never have been known throughout the country, and when the new moon first makes its appearance we will celebrate the wedding," "That is a good time, let it be so; on the new moon Melinda shall marry Awoona."

CHAPTER VI. GRAND HUNT OF THE YAURAURI - BARAKA?S FETICHISM - ELEPHANTS MELINDA SHOOTS A LION - PREPARATIONS FOR THE WEDDING - TOILET OF THE BRIDE-THE CEREMONY. THE next day was occupied in making preparations for a grand hunt in the forest to the east of Yaurauri. This was a wild, desolate region, with no inhabitants save the wild beasts; elephants abounded, and it was with the express purpose of killing these giants that the present expedition had been organised. The ivory would not only recoup them for all expenses incurred, but would yield a handsome profit when bartered to the traders down the Niger. Melinda was in high spirits. His father had acquainted him with the favourable reply of Mpengala to his proposal for his daughter, and he hoped to obtain a further supply of ivory from the hunt. All was bustle throughout the town. Bows were being greased to render them more pliant, or being re-strung, arrows were re-feathered, or dipped in the juice of the deadly lambatree; spears were sharpened, knives and daggers seen to, while the favoured few who possessed the fire-guns of the white people

SPORT IN ASHANTI. carefully picked the flints, or cast rude bullets in clay moulds. Others were busily engaged in rubbing the woolly bark of the owoneh-tree between the palms of their hands and drying it before the fire, in order to make tinder wherewith to catch the sparks from their rude flints and steels; water-bottles were seen to, haversacks re- sewn or newly made, and, in short, every preparation that a keen foresight could imagine was gone through. Towards evening a large fire was lighted in the open square before the palace gates, around which the lucky persons who had been chosen to take part in the hunt were gathered together to receive the congratulations of their friends and to recount their past deeds of daring in the chase. Palm-wine and pitto circulated freely, but none were so forgetful of the toils of the morrow as to drink too mvich; dances, more violent than graceful, were going on in various parts of the square, while the lively jest, the jocund laugh, and the hilarious song broke upon the stillness of the night. Mpengala and his royal guests were seated on mats beneath a rude canopy of plaited leaves which stood on one side of the square. Salamah and the king were engaged in earnest conversation as to the probable result of the hunting foray, the quantity of beads, knives, and similar articles they meant to fetch from the European factory far down the Niger. "Hark! there is the cry of the olomba-bird," said Salamah as the "tweet-twoo" of an owl was heard in the bush behind the town. "That is a good omen," said Mpengala; "whenever we hear the notes of that bird before setting out on an expedition, we are sure of success. True, the olomba is the messenger of the Great Spirit and tells the hunter whether his expedition will be productive of plenty of game or whether he will return with broken weapons and no elephants." Just at this moment, Baraka, the chief medicine-man of the village, made his appearance prepared to make a strong fetiche to protect the hunters from the dangers of the chase. He was dressed in a short tunic literally covered with a curious assort. z18 BARAKAPS MYSTIC RITES. ment of magical rubbish; small tortoises, dried skins of lizards, snakes, chameleons, birds' heads, feathers, leopards' claws, bits of bone, and a host of similar nonsense. These were sewn on the breast or back of the tunic, while a fringe of snail-shells jingled together as he walked along. His legs and arms were whitewashed, while several streaks of red ochre were drawn across his face, his eyes, nose and ears being daubed with bright yellow; altogether his get-up was a credit to any medicine-man. In his left hand he carried a twig with several coloured rags tied to the branches, while a magic sword, to which a bag of leopard skin was attached, dangled from his waist. He was followed by an assistant, who carried several twigs similar to that borne by his master, besides a bag, from whose capacious depths he took out a number of leg bones of various animals, and a human skull or two. With these he marked out a circle near the fire, and, placing a calabash of water on the ground, he seated himself on the outside, and his master took up his station in the centre, while all the hunters crowded round to witness the ceremony. The laugh and song of the assembly were hushed as the magic doctor commenced to walk slowly round the circle of bones, muttering some unintelligible jargon to himself the while. Having gone round three times, a number which possesses mystic virtues among many savage tribes, he picked up a kind of broom, and called aloud upon all the deities who watch over the interests of hunters, to distil some of their power into the water in the calabash. During this invocation he worked himself up into a state of frenzy fearful to behold ; his eyes glared out of their sockets with a mesmeric stare, while the drawn skin of his face brought out his prominent cheekbones in an unnatural degree, and the convulsive twitchings of his muscles testified to the vehemence of his feelings, as he fairly shrieked out the invocations to the wood spirits. From time to time he took out a small portion of some substance from the bag which was carried by his assistant, who was seated astride of a drum, which he dismally beat with the palms of his hands in a kind of tolling stroke. When all was com- tt9

SPORT IN ASI4NI. pleted to his satisfaction, be called out Mpengala, Salamah, Melinda, and Quabina, one of the sons of Mpengala, and harangued them in the following words:" Mpengala, Salamab, Melinda, and Quabina, you are all great people, your fame extends to the ends of the earth; you are great hunters, the elephant, the lion, the leopard, and the rhinoceros quail before your looks. When you go to hunt you never return with empty hands. Your homes are always full of game; should a friend visit you, you have always plenty of meat to make his heart glad; none are ever sent empty away. "You are now starting on an expedition to kill elephants. May your eye be sure, and your hand steady to draw the bow, to launch the spear, and to wield the knife; when you shoot your fire-guns may your bullets find the hearts of your enemy; when you reach the forest may you quickly find the elephants, and may you reach home laden with ivory and meat." He then took a bunch of the magic twigs and besprinkled the royal personages three times, afterwards presenting them with a small portion of the miraculous shrub, which they carefully tied round their necks. A similar ceremony was then gone through with the other hunters, all of whom received a twig with which they appeared to be delighted, and then the medicine- man and his assistant gathered up their traps and left the scene. On arrival at their homes they found a present of food from the king, together with a more substantial mark of favour in a large elephant's tooth, which Salamah bestowed upon the doctor. :Ere the eastern skies had begun to pale before the beams of the rising sun the hunting party had started, their exodus being witnessed by the whole of the townspeople, who, as they disappeared round a turn of the road, wished them good luck with a volley of" Hurrahs" from their strained throats. The lead was taken by some of the most experienced hunters of the tribe, after whom came Mpengala and his regal guests, the rear being brought up by the carriers and inferior bunters. Altogether they numbered about sixty people. 120

THE CAMP OF THE HUNTERS. About noon they reached the banks of a small stream, where they halted a short time to partake of breakfast and to escape the heat of the mid-day sun. The hunters gathered together in picturesque groups, threw themselves upon the soft grassy plain, while a dozen fires soon blazed around; tender steaks of antelope, eland, or other animal were quickly sputtering over the embers, and soon after with the keen appetites of true woodsmen they fell to upon the savoury viands. As the sun began to decline towards the western horizon they again started, and ere nightfall had arrived upon the outskirts of the forest, within whose depths innumerable herds of eland, kodoo, elephant, and other beasts revelled unmolested, save from the periodical hunts of the neighbouring people. Huts were quickly constructed by cutting down young trees and therewith erecting a square frame; a thatch of palm-leaves was soon thrown over this rude structure, while the smaller branches were wattled in and out to form the sides. The evening mealwas discussed by the flickering light of the fires, and shortly after the hunters, wearied by their long walk, were deep in the sound slumber of the tired. Occasionally some hunter would raise his head and take a look round, or throw another stick on the smouldering fires, or, as the howl of some prowling beast caught his ear, would clutch his gun and sit up with listening ear, ready to do battle with the animal if he should dare to intrude within the privacy of the camp. In the morning all were astir by the earliest dawn, and the various plans of action discussed. Some were directed to penetrate the forest to the eastward, while the others were to go north-east and south-east respectively. Mpengala, accompanied by Melinda, chose the north-eastern route, while Salamab, with young Quabina, were in charge of the hunters who went southeast; the central body consisted of several veteran hunters, under the command of an aged chief who rejoiced in the soubriguet of the "Rhinoceros Horn." As our tale chiefly relates to Melinda, we will accompany him to the fray. After a march of three hours through a dense forest, they came 121

,SPORT IN ASHANTI. to a more open country, and every one was on the tip-toe of expectancy. Presently an experienced hunter who was somewhat in advance of the rest, and whose ears were as acute as his eyes were keen, was seen to put up his hand to indicate silence, while his head was bent forward in an attitude of attentive listening. In a few moments he came rushing up to Mpengala in a state of considerable excitement, with the news that some elephants were at a pool of water a short distance off. All listened, and at length, borne down upon the wind, came tje splash splash of the mighty beasts as they revelled in the luxury of the bath, while ever and again the noise of rushing water, as if from a hose, informed the listeners that one of the creatures was sluicing himself with his trunk. Treading noiselessly over the fallen leaves, each hunter slowly advanced in the direction of the herd, and in a few moments three fine elephants were exposed to their view, standing up to their knees in a large pool of water. There was a large bull and two cows, and as the bush was very thick, and the wind from the elephants to the hunters, they were enabled to obtain a good view of the ponderous beasts. Filling their trunks with the cooling liquid, they turned them over their backs and squirted the refreshing contents over them, a snort of enjoyment testifying to their appreciation of the shower. Every hunter looked to his weapons, and each having selected the beast he meant to attack the onset commenced. Out they rushed from their concealment, those with bows and arrows having their weapons ready fixed on the string, ready for instant discharge, while Npengala and Melinda, who possessed guns, made ready to fire as soon as they came within range. No sooner did they emerge upon the open, than the startled beasts opened their small eyes to their fullest extent, as they gazed in utmost surprise at the near approach of their enemies. The old bull was the first to recover himself, and raising his ponderous trunk high above his head, he came thundering and crashing upon the hunters. Mpengala fired at the beast, but 122

THE FIRST ELEPHANT. although the thud of the bullet was heard, it had no more effect in staying the headlong charge than a pellet from a boy's popgun. Arrow after arrow was shot into the sides of the beast, until he began to assume the appearance of a porcupine as he charged furiously from side to side at the nearest hunter. Whenever he showed his flank another arrow was shot at him, until the poor beast, utterly worried by the number of his assailants, careered wildly over the plain. The hunters approached close to it to discharge their arrows, and as the suffering animal turned to repel his tormentor, the latter, agile as a cat, leaped on one side to give place to another. In this way the fight continued for several minutes, while Melinda had reserved his fire for an opportunity of planting his bullet in a vital spot. An opportunity of so doing was soon afforded him. The infuriated elephant, spying him standing apart from the other hunters, singled him out for a special attack. Down he rushed upon the youth in a charge resistless as that of an avalanche. Calmly the brave lad awaited his approach, and as he appeared upon the point of being crushed to a jelly beneath the huge animal, he nimbly stepped aside, and fired behind the sbouldefr. The effect of the shot was soon evident. He staggered about wildly, and made for the forest, where he dashed madly around, sprinkling the trunks of the trees with his blood. Melinda again approached, and lodged a second bullet in the flanks of the animal. After receiving the last ball, the poor beast twisted his trunk round a slender tree in the vain hope of supporting his ponderous frame, which began to totter from side to side; but the tree as well as his legs soon gave way, and he sank expiring to the ground. A yell of triumph burst from the lips of Melinda as the last sigh of the elephant gurgled in its throat, and he turned to watch the pursuit of the other two beasts. These, after a similar chase, succumbed to the repeated attacks, and ere nightfall three fine elephants had been laid low by the weapons of the hunters. As- it was impossible to carry such huge game into camp, the 123

SPORT IN A SHAN TI. party bivouacked upon the field, and though they were disturbed by several visits from wolves -and hymnas, they met with no adventure during the night. The next morning they were busily engaged in cutting out the ivory and teeth, and by noon they again started on their hunt. By nightfall they came to the banks of a river where the numerous spoor of various animals convinced them that it was a favourite drinking place for game of all descriptions. It was resolved by Melinda and several other hunters to watch the banks during the night, and they therefore retired about two miles across the river, so as to give no alarm to the game by the too close proximity of the camp. Soon after nightfall Melinda, accompanied by four other men, returned to the riverside, where they took up their stations on a couple of tall trees which grew on either side of the well-beaten trail. Scarcely had they ensconced themselves amidst their leafy hiding-place than four elands came down to the spring to drink. Casting a scrutinising glance around, they made a careful inspection of the neighbourhood, to discover any enemy which might be hidden there. Little thought they that man, their deadliest foe, lay concealed within a few yards of them. After the elands came several small antelopes, and finally a herd of six fine elephants came thundering down the path with majestic tread. The excitement of the hunters was raised to the highest pitch as they saw the huge beasts revelling in the delights of the cool waters within a stone's throw of them. Next a snorting gurgling sound to the left called the attention of the hunters in that direction, and on turning they saw a herd of hippopotami disporting themselves in the stream. Presently, while the elands were luxuriating in the delicious water, a loud roar was heard to the right, and with a bound that seemed to be impossible, an enormous lion sprang on the back of one of the devoted elands and bore it to the ground. Startled for an instant at so unexpected a sight, 3elinda was thrown off his guard, and cried out; but his voice was drowned in the roar of the lion and the cries of the various animals, which 124

MELINDA AND THE LION. scattered like the wind before the presence of the king of beasts. Meanwhile the lion rested upon the neck of the prostrate eland, apparently sure of his prey, as he purred like a great cat, and convulsively twitched his tail from side to side. "I must have that skin for Awoona," said Melinda, and telling the hunters to keep their bows in readiness in case of any accident, he slid down the tree trunk, and, favoured by the darkness, slowly crept up to the lion. The night was dark, and a breeze rustled the trees, and Melinda stalked along more like a shadow than a human being, but he was not silent enough for the acute sense of bearing of the lion. Suddenly he ceased purring, and raised his head with his ears standing straight up. What a noble animal he then looked, very different to the tame, emasculated creatures one sees in the menageries at home! His whole frame quivered with the excite. ment of the capture of the eland, and he was now conscious of the approach of some creature. His fiery eyes gleamed with a greenish light through the darkness, as Melinda halted within a few feet of the eland, but did not dare to raise his gun to take aim. Suddenly the lion started up, and giving vent to a roar as he discovered the intrepid youth standing within a few feet, spralig towards him. The hunters gave a shriek as they fired a volley of arrows at the lion; but quick as was his bound, Melinda was still quicker, for as the animal rose in the air, he fired. A yell of agony burst from the lion, which fell at his feet writhing in the agonies of death. As the hunters rushed up a quiver went from head to tail, and the monarch of the forest lay dead. Hastily skinning the animal, Melinda and the hunters made their way back to camp, shooting a small antelope on their way which they surprised quietly browsing under the shadow of a mimento bush. Loud were the cheers that greeted Melinda and his companions when they entered the camp laden with the trophies of the chase. 125

SPORT IN ASHA.VT. The other parties had already returned, and when the game was counted it was found that there were nine elephants, one lion, two leopards, and several antelopes fallen before the arms of the hunters. Satisfied with so good a result of three days' hunting, they broke up their camp and returned to Mpengala's town. A runner was sent on ahead to inform the inhabitants of their approach, and on the morning when they intended to enter the town a halt was made when about a couple of miles from it, and everybody was busied in making himself as smart as possible. Melinda had skinned the lion and pegged it out flat on the ground, and having well rubbed it with lime juice, left it to dry in the sun. This skin he now wore cloak-fashion over his shoulders, while behind him came two attendants carrying the tusks of the elephants he had slain. As the long train of hunters neared the gates, the inhabitants turned out en masse to welcome the successful Nimrods. Drums were beaten, horns blown, and the most corybantic dances indulged in by both sexes. Nor did the crafty Baraka forget to remind Mpengala and his royal guests that he had foretold a prosperous issue to the hunting expedition, and did his best to impress upon the minds of his hearers that all the skill and bravery of the hunters would have availed them nothing if they had not obtained the magic twigs, and been sprinkled with the fetiche water before they started. Of course, everybody being in a good humour, a number of presents found their way to the crafty old medicine-man; and I would advise all of my readers who contemplate a sojourn in Africa, to set up for medicinemen, if they hope to make a fortune by their expedition. In the evening a large fire was kindled in the square, and the dance and song were carried on until the stars began to pale in the east. Proudly did Awoona carry herself as she heard the bravest hunters of her tribe extol the daring achievements of young Melinda, and many were the envious glances which she received tIz6

PREPA.RATIONS FOR THE WEDDING. from the less fortunate maidens of the town, all of whom would have esteemed it the highest honour to have been selected by the youthful hunter as his bride. The next day was devoted to a distribution of the proceeds of the chase, and the despatch of the ivory down the Niger for disposal to the Europeans at the first factory down the river, and early on the following morning Salamah returned to his own capital, accompanied by Melinda, in order to make the necessary preparations for the wedding, which was to take place in about a fortnight. The finest cotton cloths of native manufacture were prepared by Melinda, and bullocks, fowls, ducks, guinea-fowl, turkeys, and other necessaries for the forthcoming banquet; for in Africa as in Europe, no event of any pretensions to importance can be properly carried out without the accompaniment of a great feast. Two days before the appointed time, Salamah and the young bridegroom returned to Mpengala's town, their arrival being greeted by the most uproarious mirth, singing and dancing, the firing of guns by the fortunate possessors, and similar manifestations of joy. The various members of Mpengala's household were busily engaged in the formation of savoury stews, roasts, and similar dainties, while nearly every person of consequence throughout Mpengala's dominions had sent in a present of some kind of food, so that the quantity and variety were considerable. On the eventful morning every person throughout the town and the adjacent villages was bestir with the earliest dawn, donning the finest cloths and the gaudiest beads he possessed. Baraka, the fetiche man, had been hidden from curious eyes in the preparation of some magic philtres by means of which the lives of the happy pair were to be rendered one unbroken string of conjugal felicity. As might be expected, he was one of the important personages of the approaching ceremo.y, for although marriage is not a religious but a civil institution among West Africans, yet the assistance of the fetiche man is considered indispensable in all well-conducted marriages. Meanwhile a new house had been constructed for the residence 127

SPORT IN ASIL4NTI. of the newly-wedded couple, and as everybody was impressed into the service by Mpengala, the building did not occupy many days; indeed an African village can be pulled down and rebuilt with a celerity astonishing to the uninitiated. Three days at most will suffice to transform a silent desert into a large village, so that when we hear boastful remarks about the burning of an African town, we must remember that they will burn as quickly as a stackyard, and can be rebuilt almost ere the earth is cool from the em bers of the conflagration. The doors and roof-trees of the house were decorated with palm-branches, and by daylight a dancing throng had assembled before the gates to do honour to the newly wedded couple by muddling their brains on pitto and palm-wine. The ceremony commenced by the assembly of all the relatives of the bride and bridegroom in the spacious courtyard of Mpen. gala's palace. There a feast had been prepared for them, on which they fell lustily to devour. The quantity of solid food some of them managed to put away was enormous, and would have done credit to the gastronomic powers of the greatest Sioux warrior that ever lived, and they enjoy the reputation of being unapproached as trenchermen. During this feast which lasted several hours, Melinda busied himself in attending to the guests. but the bride Awoona was nowhere to be seen, she being, according to-custom, kept in the closest seclusion in the women's apartments. There she was being decorated in the finest apparel that the royal storehouse afforded. A loose robe of cotton, handspun and of native manufacture, enveloped her from the shoulders to the ankles, the gaudy hues shining conspicuously out in contrast to her under robe of white cotton cloth. Numerous bracelets and anklets of beads, seeds, and golden ornaments Jingled as she walked, while a dozen necklaces of similar con. struction encircled her throat. On her head she wore a fillet ef crimson cloth, from which a row of bright golden ornaments, cut in the form of stars, crescents, squares, and similar devices, contrasted strikingly with her dusky skin. After bathing she had been copiously anointed with perfumed oil, which was rubbed in 118

A YA URA URI BRIDE. till she shone like polished leather, while her charms were further heightened by the application of a greenish pomatum in fanciful curves, streaks, and spirals, on her cheeks, neck, and arms. In short, Awoona in her bridal dress presented a sight which brought deafening cheers from the assembled guests when she was ushered into their presence at the conclusion of the feast. Conducted by her mother, Awoona bashfully advanced to her father, who received her witr open arms, while her mother quietly seated herself on a mat at the feet of her lord and master. Baraka then rose to his feet, presenting a remarkable appearance, by reason of the multitude of fetiches with which he was covered. Stretching out his hand he made the following speech, accompanying it with the most violent gesticulations and contortions, wherewith to impress his audience with a due sense of the importance of his words. "Yaurauri here assembled, you have long enjoyed the blessing of government under the hands of the wise Mpeugala! Who has so often led you to hunt the mighty elephant? Mpengala! Who has made great feasts to which all were free to come or go, as they wished ? Mpengala! Who has kept away the horrors of war from his country, and has caused the land to overflow with plenty? Mpengala! Yaurauri, you ought to be grateful to the good spirits for such a king. "Mpengala has many children. The great Sokpoton has blessed his marriage with the daughters of his people. We are now assembled to celebrate the nuptials of his eldest daughter. We all know Awoona, with the supple limbs of the antelope, the fleetness of the eland, and the melting eyes of the gazelle. Melinda, the son of Salamah, the friend of Mpengala, saw this young doe, and his heart went out for her. It is good. Who should wed the daughter of our king rather than the sou of the king of the Zoglogbomis ? Who is so great a hunter as Melinda ? Already he has slain elephants and a lion, and should danger threaten his country, who will be before Melinda in the fray? If any person thinks Melinda is not worthy of the daughter of 129

SPORT IN ASHANTI. Mpengala, let him speak now, or for ever be silent. Baraka has spoken." Loud murmurs of applause arose as the fetiche man concluded his harangue, and ere it subsided Kpalaka, an aged chief stood up, and challenged any one to say why Melinda should be deemed unworthy of Awoona. No one replying Baraka solemnly arose, and taking two immense calabashes which *ere profusely decorated with shells, seeds, and other ornaments of a similar nature, he poured a little water into each. These be set on the ground, and his assistant immediately encircled them with a cordon of bones and skulls, as he had done upon the occasion of the start of the hunters. The fetiche man then stepped within the magic circle, and commenced to mutter some incomprehensible words while he appeared to be pulling down something from the skies, and casting it into the calabashes. He then poured a little of the water from each calabash upon the ground, and having scraped the mud together, he moulded it into a couple of rude human figures, one of which he placed opposite each calabash. He then performed more incantations over them, and then picking them up, dashed them to fragments, and ground them to powder beneath his heel. Then calling Melinda and Awoona to the edge of the magic circle he addressed them thus:"Melinda, son of Salamah, Awoona, daughter of Mpengala, you saw the two figures of yourselves which I moulded out of earth moistened with the water from the two calabashes. On these I invoked all the evils which would have fallen upon you during your lives, and you see I have stamped them to atoms beneath my feet. So will all sorrow be stamped out from your lives, and you will live happily together." He then took up the two calabashes, and giving one to each, said some fetiche words over them. Then taking the two calabashes again he mingled their contents, and finally, handing them again to Melinda and Awoona said,"Drink this sacred water. As you saw the water in Awoona's calabash mingled in that of Melinda, and that of Melinda mingled with that of Awoona, so you cannot again separate 130

THE MARRIAGE CEREMONY. them. No person save the Great Spirit could again put the water which was in Awoona's calabash back again now that it has been mingled with that in Melinda's. Just so are your two lives mingled with each other. Drink the water and thereby swear that you will be husband and wife to each other for ever." At these words Melinda and Awoona drank up the water in the calabashes, and then returned to their seats near their respective parents. Another violent harangue from Baraka completed the marriage ceremouial, and the guests prepared to fall to upon another feast, while others began to dance and sing with a vehemence truly astonishing. Like most monarchs Mpengala kept a state fool, and this worthy went the round of the assembly cracking stale jokes, making faces, and otherwise doing the funny, the species of wit being such as would amuse a six-year-old child in Europe. As the sun went down and the stars came twinkling out one by one, the number of dancers considerably increased, and it seemed as though the whole populace were gathered round the fires in the grand square opposite the palace gates. About midnight a procession was formed headed by the bridegroom, which marched to the newly-erected house. On arrival he was received by a number of his frieiids, both male and female, and was welcomed to his new bome amidst a (leafening noise of drums, horns, gun-firing, and similar demonstrations. A short time afterwards another procession came tip, bringing the bride, who was thus delivered to her husband by her mother. The persons composing the processions were regaled with food and drinks, and thus concluded the wedding of Melinda and Awoona.' Alas! little did that happy couple dream of the misfortunes that awaited them on the morrow. r3I C HATER VII. TEDURETDE NEWN-INVASTON OF TuE RABBARORI-BARAKA'S RXOIRCISMTHE ATTACK-DWATH OF MPENGALA-CAPTURE OF MELINDA-EPULSE OF THE PABBAEORI-AWOONA ALSO A PRISONER- THXY ARE SOLD INTO SL&VERY-MELINDA IS CREATED A CABOCEER IN ASHANTI-HEZ HEARS NEWS OP AWOONA. BRIGHTLY rose the sun on the morning after the events we have detailed in the preceding chapter, and already had several friends called to congratulate the youthful bridegroom, when a man was observed emerging from the forest on the far side of the plantations which environed the town. His appearance even at that distance excited surprise. His gait was unsteady as if he were suffering from some injury, while his tattered dress seemed to have received rough usage from the hand of some person in a fearful struggle. As he slowly neared the town he raised his hand, and a feeble cry was heard borne on the morning breeze. As yet he was too distant for his words to be distinguished, but several persons rushed out to learn the news, while the others stood awaiting the announcement of something which, from some unaccountable presentiment or other, they felt was of ill portent. When the people who had gone to meet the stranger had a-nProach.ed him, they set up a fearful cry, and some hastening to

TERRIBLE NEWS. the towns-people announced the stranger as Sogro, the chief of Alarmeh, the neighbouring village, who had escaped with the news that the Rabbarori, after falling suddenly upon Salamah's town and massacring a number of the inhabitants, had marched towards Mpengala's country, burning the villages as they advanced with a rapidity truly incredible. The night before they had suddenly fallen upon Alarmeh, and though the people had bravely withstood the onset, so sudden was the attack and so little were the people prepared for war, that after a brief struggle, in which many had fallen, they were compelled to fly. Sogro, though desperately wounded, had hastened to inform Mpengala of the invasion, and expressed his belief that in a few hours the Rabbarori would be in sight. The news flew through the town with the rapidity of fire through a train of gunpowder. All was consternation. Where but a few hours before all was a scene of mirth and enjoyment, women might be seen shrieking and crying out to their husbands to save them and their children from the cruel Rabbarori. The men hastened to procure their weapons, as the big drum of Mpengala was heard beating the assembly. The King of Zoglogbomey, although dismayed at the news of the loss of his capital, nevertheless did not think of leaving his friend Mpengala to bear the brunt of the forthcoming battle alone, although by setting out for his own town at once he might have avoided the fight. On the contrary, he endeavoured to inspire courage into the quailing hearts of the Yaurauri and tW nerve their arms for the forthcoming struggle. But so long had the country been at peace, and so little attention had they paid to keeping up their martial prowess, that there were but few men who had been in an engagement out of the whole number of persons capable of fighting, while to the remainder the thought of offering resistance to the powerful Rabbarori seemed little less than invoking the wrath of the gods upon their own heads. Mpengala, surrounded by his chiefs, ascended the heap of stones on the market- place, whence he was accustomed to harangue 1133

SPORT IN ASHANTI. the people, and endeavoured to inspire them with sufficient courage to make a blow in defence of their hearths and homes. "The Rabbarori," said he, "cannot be many ; otherwise, they could not move from place to place so rapidly. We will boldly face them, and show them that though they may have succeeded in slaying many of our people, when they have fallen upon them in the night, yet when we have an opportunity of making sufficient preparations we can strike as sure and as deep as the bravest warrior among them. Shall we, the Yaurauri, who have lived in peace and plenty for so long, be driven from our homes like the beasts of the forest? No, we will fight in defence of our wives and children, and avenge the deaths of our countrymen who have fallen beneath the treacherous onslaught of the Rabbarori. " Salamah, with but few men, advanced into their country to avenge an insult, and shall we be behind the Zoglogbomis in courage? "The Rabbarori have come to us, let us give them such a lesson as they may remember as long as they are a nation. Let us show them that we can fight, when called upon to do so for our defence." These stirring words of the king seemed to infuse courage into the hearts of the Yaurauri, which before seemed to be utterly terror stricken at the approach of the terrible Rabbarori. IMbogela, one of the chiefs, brandishing a highly-polished gun round his head, declared that he for one would never fly before any enemy. "Why should the Yanrauri, who were the bravest hunters on the Niger, quail before the approach of any enemy? Have the Rabbarori greater courage than the lion ? Have they greater cunning than the elephant, or more strength than the rhinoceros ? Why then should the Yaurauri fear them ?" A loud cheer of applause succeeded Mbogela's speech; and Mpengala at once set about putting the towin in a state of defence. Like many other towns among the Houssa tribes, it was surrounded by a high mud wall and a dry ditch. The wall had been allowed to Ihll into decay in several places during 134

PREPARA TIONS FOR DEFENCE. the long peace, while the ditch in many parts was either choked full of brushwood or partly filled up with the earth which had fallen in from the sides. The gaps in the wall were temporarily stopped up by palisades with sharpened tops, so as to prevent any person from climbing over, while an opportunity was afforded to the besieged of firing at their assailants through the interstices. The houses in the neighbourhood of the wall were unroofed, as the thatch, being dried under a vertical sun, would catch fire with the smallest spark; and once set alight the wind would carry the devouring element from house to house with a rapidity truly appalling. Indeed, whenever a town is besieged it is the aim of the assaulting party to set fire to the roofs of the town by means of burning rags fixed to arrows, or fired from their guns. The gates of the town, four in number, were closed, but having been so long in disuse they offered but a meagre resistance to the entrance of any person whether friend. or foe. A party of men were accordingly despatched to the forest, and a number of young trees were felled and dragged to the gates, where they were laid with their butt-ends towards the gate, the branches forming a chevaux de frise towards the open country. Such a barricade, although it offered but little shelter from the bullets and arrows of the besiegers, nevertheless presented a very serious impediment to any attempt to force a way into the town; for the assaulting party would, by being forced to climb and thrust themselves through the interlocking branches, be so completely at the mercy of the besieged, that a very small force of determined men could keep a large number at bay. The women were employed in gathering heaps of stones, which were piled up on the top of the wall near those places where an assault was most to be apprehended, ready to be cast down upon the heads of the besiegers if they were successful in crossing the ditch. Everybody was getting his weapons, whether guns, bows and arrows, spears or javelins, into the best possible order; and the noise of swords being sharpened on flat stones was heard all over 135

SPORT IN ASHANTI. the town. Mpengala was here, there, and everywhere, encouraging the repairers of the wall at one place by assisting to fix in one of the stakes, and at another cheering the stone gatherers or those engaged in furbishing up their weapons, by a few soulstirring words. Thus the day wore on, and the men stationed on the roof of Mpengala's palace, which being the tallest building in the place was always chosen as a watch-tower, had hitherto failed to detect the slightest signs of an enemy. The green maize waved its feathery heads in successive billows as the breeze ran over it, causing it to rustle with a sound that required but a small stretch of the imagination to be mistaken for the seething of the waves of the far-off ocean. The patches of yams and sweet potatoes still smiled in the sunlight peacefully as ever, while the landscape was bounded ,a one side by the waving forest whose dark umbrageous depths might have concealed a whole army within a hundred yards of its edge, without the eye being able to penetrate its thickets. On the other side the silvery stream of the Niger rippled calmly down, its surface ever and anon disturbed by some splashing alligator, or by the dip of the scarlet bill of the gorgeous blue kingfisher as he swooped for an instant for his finny prey. Now a canoe could be observed like a black streak on its argenteous surface as the rays of the setting sun glinted over its bosom as it turned to the northward some four miles away. Just as the sun was rapidly sinking behind the forest trees to the west, a warrior was descried standing motionless on the edge of the wood, on the road by which the gallant Sogro had brought the news of the approach of the Rabbarori. He appeared to be carefully surveying the town with the idea of forming the best plan of assault. It was evident that he did not fear discovery, for he beckoned to some one concealed in the wood, and in a few moments half-a-dozen men made their appearance. Their scrutiny lasted but a short time, when turning with defiant gestures towards the anxious townspeople they re-entered the wood. I36

APPROACHOFTHERABBARORI 3 Meanwhile, sentinels were posted around the walls, and as soon as darkness had fallen two lithe warriors stole out of the gate, and crouching down at full length crawled away in the gloom. Their object was to reconnoitre the position of the iRabbarori, and to bring in information respecting their numbers and probable mode or time of attack. Leaving them to pursue their perilous way, we will turn our attention to the fetiche man Baraka. From the time that the terrible news of the approach of the :Rabbarori was announced the greegree-man* had remained closely secluded in his own house. From time to time fearful howls and groans were heard proceeding from it, but so greatly was the power of the fetichist feared that none dared stop to ascertain their cause. When the scouts had departed the assistant of Baraka made his appearance in the market-square, and beating a huge cymbal covered with fetiches, with a short iron rod, be called the attention of the people. When all were assembled he announced that Baraka, the great juju-man, had been busily engaged in cominuning with Thrisa (the native Iars), and he had received an answer favourable to the Yaurauri, which he would himself deliver as soon as he had finished his magical ceremonials. In a short time Baraka appeared clothed in a long garment of the green leaves of the palm-tree, which shrouded him from head to foot. Over his head, resting on his shoulders, was the stuffed head of a buffalo, so that the fetiche appeared on the scene as a stalking jack-in-the-green with a buffalo's head. He was pre. ceded by his assistant, who selected a number of women indiscriminately from the crowd, and caused them to follow the magician in a straggling train. When the medicine-man arrived before the king, he spoke in a high-pitched voice as follows,"Mpengala, king of the Yaurauri, Salamah, king of the Zoglogbomis, you see the Rabbarori have arisen against you. They have come to lay your fields desolate; to destroy your 0 Fetiche-man, juju-man, and greegree-man, are synonymous in West Africa. They all denote a semi-priest-semi.magician. 137 SPORT IZ ASHANTI. plantations; to burn your houses; and to carry away your people into captivity. Their numbers are great as those of the red ant, and their stings are sharp and venomous. The Rabbarori are great warriors. "The Yaurauri have not gone out to war for many years; their warriors are all old men, who cannot throw the spear or wield the sword with the vigour of their youthful days. Her young men are but hunters of the beasts of the forest, brave and enduring, but inexperienced in war. Nevertheless, let them not fear. When the time for action arrived, did they not prepare to defend their town ? Did not the children help to sharpen the spears and the swords for their fathers to fight with, and did not the women pile stones on the walls to cast down upon the heads of the hated Rabbarori ? "Baraka has made a great fetiche. He has slain a bullock, and many fowls and ducks to the fetiche. He has thrown the dice,* and has obtained a favourable answer from the fighting fetiche. Be brave, therefore, and fear not, oh! brave Yaurauri, but keep up a stout heart, and face the enemy with unflinching nerves, and you shall drive them from the country as the gazelles flee before the approach of the lion. "1 Let the women each take up a torch and follow me round the walls, so that we may drive away any evil fetiches that the Rabbarori may have sent against us." With these words the medicine-man took up a lighted torch * The throwing of dice, by way of prognosticating the future, is carried on by many tribes in Western Africa. The dice are usually square pieces of bone with marks on them, similar to those of European manufacture. To certain numbers, or combinations or succession of numbers, certain meanings are attached, and as the dice fall the number indicated is scored on a stick, or marked on the sand by the fingers of the thrower or diviner. The dice are not usually thrown up in the air or turned out of a box, but a short stump, generally a maize cob, is stuck upright in the ground and the die is dropped on the top of this, so that the edge of the stump catches one of the angles of the die and causes it to turn over. Another method of throwing lots is the taking of Afa, for a full account of which see 'Dahomey as it is,' p. 474. 138

.B]RA4KX4'S EXORCISM. from a heap which had been brought by his assistant, and the women following his example, a long procession was formed. As they solemnly marched round the town, in the open space between the wall and the houses, the fetiche priest rushed frantically from side to side, calling upon all the deities of the Rabbarori to depart if any of them were lurking about with intent to do harm to the Yaurauri. Long ere the circumambulat ion was complete the powers of nature could no longer sustain the excited Baraka, who was borne along on the shoulders of a couple of neophytes, and thus the exorcism of the Rabbarori fetiches was completed. Soon after their return the scouts arrived back from their inspection of the Rabbarori camp, and were immediately ushered into the presence of King 1vpengala. "Well, Kankala and Opobo, my brave scouts, have you been to the camp of the Rabbarori? " "We have, 0 King! we have been all round it and have entered within the line of sentries, favoured by the darkness." "Tant is good. How many of the Rabbarori are there ? " "There are a great number, seven hundred at the least, and they are all picked warriors of their tribe. We saw the Vulture there and other chiefs, and heard them muttering words of vengeance against the Yaurauri." "Did you hear anything of their plans?" "Not from the chiefs, for they were not gathered in council; but from what we heard from the soldiers we do not think they will attack to-night." "That is strange. The Rabbarori generally pounce upon their victim like the leopard upon his prey. Did you hear no reason assigned for so great a deviation from their usual tactics ? " "It seems that they have suffered considerable loss in the attack on Sogro's town, and they are in great need of repose. MJany of the soldiers are wounded and require rest." "Their wounds will be more stiff in the morning, besides 139

'40 SPORT INr AS-L4VTI. which, we shall have all the longer to prepare for them. It is good. Have you any furthur news? " "There is a report of an Arab caravan at the Rabbarori king's town, which is journeying far towards the setting sun." "Ha! say you so P It is long since the Moslems came on one of their journeys to the west." "They have many rich stuffs with them in blue and crimson and gold. Their swords and spears are bright and keen; besides these, they have many other things the like of which we never heard; of some the names were unknown to us." "What do the Babbarori give in exchange for the merchandise of the Arab traders ?" "They have ivory, but only a little, since their hunters are neither 'so brave nor so skilful as those of the Yaurauri. The Arabs, however, are anxious to purchase slaves wherewith to stock the markets of Sego, Ashanti, and Bambara." "Then the object of this expedition is to capture slaves," said Salamah, rising with some warmth. "Never fear! but we will disappoint them of their prey. But have you further news? " "We heard nothing further, since there was a stir throughout the camp, and we had to creep away to avoid discovery." "Thou hast done well, Kankala, and so has thy comrade, Opobo. We will see that due reward is given thee." In the morning the invading army was seen gathered into two divisions, under the command of two celebrated captains, one of whom rejoiced in the name of the Vulture, while that of the other was the Leopard. It was evident that they did not meditate an immediate attack, since the soldiers were sitting or lying on the ground, while their chiefs were assembled between the two wings engaged in what appeared to be an important palaver. The time wore on and the afternoon was more than half spent, and still the attack was delayed. Salamab, Mpengala, the prime minister, and the principal chiefs were assembled in council, and it was unanimously resolved to send a messenger to the Rabbarori, to offer terms, since the chiefs well knew that should the

,4 PALA VER. Ilabbarori make a determined siege, they must succeed in the end. Mpengala was anxious to avoid bloodshed, and was happy that his thoughts had been echoed by the opinions of the chiefs. The two scouts, Rankala and Opobo, were selected for the duty; and having received instructions from Mpengala to the effect that he was desirous of saving the lives of his subjects, and if the Rabbarori would be content to be bought off, he would pay them thirty tusks of ivory and one hundred teeth. As the two messengers departed on their errand, their progress was anxiously watched by the people on the wall and at the gates. They bore a large palm-branch in their hands, from which a white flag, that universal token of peace, fluttered in the breeze. Arrived balfway between the invading host and the town walls they halted, and waving the white flag, summoned the messengers of the Rabbarori to the palaver. Two soldiers accordingly laid aside their arms, and went down to meet the Yaurauri. The conference was eagerly watched by the soldiers on both sides, and, after a short conversation, the Rabbarori delegates returned to their party, while the two Yaurauri awaited their return with the answer to their proffered terms. The excitement of the Yaurauri was intense. Would the Vulture accept the terms, and thus save the town from the carnage which would inevitably ensue? or would the offer be indignantly refused, and the wives and children be left desolate, or carried off by the conquerors to be sold into slavery, never again to be united on earth? See, the Rabbarori messengers are returning! They reach the two scouts! They are now delivering their answer! Is it peace or war? The delegates separate, the one pair going towards the invaders, while the others return to the beleaguered Yaurauri They are met at the gates by the aged Kpataka. "You are the bearers of ill news, to judge from your looks," said he. 141

SPORT IN ASHAArTl "We are not messengers of peace but war. War to the knife." "Alas! Yaurauri, the day of thy doom is come; for how can a peaceful race hope to contend with any chance of success against the warlike Rabbarori ?" With dejected looks Kalanka and Opobo approached the king, who awaited their approach with an anxiety he strove in vain to conceal. "Have the Vulture and the Leopard acceded to our proposal ?" said he. "Their answer was insulting in the highest degree. They spurned the offer of the ivory with contempt. 'iDid we come from Rabbarori to return with a paltry booty of elephants' tusks ? No, we have come for slaves and slaves we will have. We have taken many captives of the Zoglogbomis, and we will have many of the Yaurauri to keep them company. If we want ivory, we shall come and take it. "Such were the words the Rabbarori heralds desired us to deliver to you, 0 King! They also told us that if we did not believe them, we were to look out from our walls just before the sun sank behind the forest-trees." "The sun already touches the tops of the cotton trees. What shall we behold if we look out? Let us hasten and learn." When the old king and his courtiers arrived at the walls, they looked out through one of the openings and saw to their horror a row of captives sitting pinioned on the ground with a grass rope fastened round their necks. Even at this distance their faces could be almost discerned furrowed by grief and torture, and the heartB of the Yaurauri quailed within their breasts as a Rabbarori herald called out to them, and taunted them by saying that on the morrow their king would be even as one of these. Sad were the thoughts of the inhabitants of the beleaguered town as the shades of night fell upon then. Still, however, the brave king and his companions endeavoured to keep up the spirits of his subjects. 142

THE A TTA C K. Scarcely had the sun been risen sufficiently long to disperse the mists which hung over the river, than the yells of the Rabbarori were heard as they approached to the assault. One party were advancing to the northern gate, while the other under the Leopard were bent upon entering by the eastern postern. The Yaurauri were ready for them, and no sooner did they arrive within range than they poured in a volley of arrows, while the guns of the chiefs were heard detonating on all sides as they fired at their assailants. Many fell, but the advancing tide remained unchecked. Soon they were at the edge of the ditch, whence they discharged their arrows and volleys of musketry, so as to clear the walls of their defenders to allow a storming party to cross the ditch. The party under the Vulture, who attacked the northern gate, having no ditch to cross were quickly engaged in a hand-to-hand encounter amidst the boughs of the trees which had been felled at the entrance. Fierce was the contest as each now gained an advantage over the other; at one time the 1Rabbarori appeared to be on the point of entering the gate, when a rally of the Yaurauri would send them flying to the rear, leaving their dead and wounded behind them. Melinda, who fought with this party, appeared ever in the thickest of the fight, the tall plume in his fillet nodding above the heads of his followers; now he was helping to drive off an attack at the right of the gate, and scarcely were they repulsed, when the crack of his gun would be heard far to the left. Still the overwhelming numbers and thorough training of the Rabbarori began to tell upon the peaceful Yaurauri. Fiercely though they fought, yet their strength became more and more exhausted; and as their numbers decreased, so did the ranks of their foes appear to be. augmented: slowly but surely they were driven back, until the fight waged between the side posts of the gates. MIpengala the brave king, cheering on his men with his powerful voice, again led them to the assault; down fell the Rabbarori before the powerful sweeps of his clubbed gun as it crashed through the skulls of his foes, as if wielded with superhuman strength. But the race of the brave 143

SPORT IN ASHANT. old sovereign was nearly run; as he lifted his gun to give the coup deyrdee to a burly savage who was on the point of shooting an arrow at Melinda, a bullet from the musket of one of the chiefs entered his breast, and, with a leap up into the air and a piercing cry, the aged King of the Yaurauri fell dead. A dozen Rabbarori attempted to seize the body or, at least, cut off the head as a trophy, but the death of their king seemed to put the besieged into a perfect frenzy as they rushed to the rescue, headed by Melinda, who, with one stroke of his scimitar, cleft the head of the chief who had slain his father, right down to his shoulders. At this juncture a ringing shout was heard from the river, and, turning to ascertain from whence it came, the Yaurauri were rejoiced to behold a body of their countrymen leaping ashore and coming up to the rescue. The Rabbarori, dismayed at such an unlooked-for event, retreated, to avoid being trapped between two foes, while the brave defenders of the gate followed up their success, and drove their assailants pellmell into the forest. Melinda, burning to revenge the death of his father-in-law, fo. lowed the retreating Rabbarori with such eagerness that he became separated from his comrades, and the discomfited besiegers, finding that their pursuers had dwindled down to a single man, closed around him and, ere he was aware of his danger, the brave Melinda had received a blow from a club which stretched him senseless on the ground. When he recovered he found himself bound hand and foot lying on the ground, with a couple of guards over him. " Who are you ?" said he. "Have the Yaurauri been beaten, or have they driven the hated Rabbarori from their country ? "You are a prisoner in the hands of the Vulture," said one of his guards giving him a stroke with the butt-end of his spear. " Coward! " said Melinda, "you dared not strike me if I were not bound and helpless; but loose my bonds, and repeat it if you dare." " Oh, oh! my proud fellow, the slave rope will soon take all 144

A NARROW RSCAPR. the fire out of you; when the Arab traders have hold of you, they will know how to curb your temper." Melinda groaned in spirit as he heard these words, for he knew his fate was sealed. The Arab merchants came with caravans from time to time and purchased slaves, who were never heard of afterwards; common report said that those who were sold to the whites were fattened up and eaten, and, although Melinda scarcely credited so horrible a story, yet he had a vague idea that the sufferings of the slaves were of the most acute kind. Shortly after, the Leopard and his troop came up, bringing with them several captives, but evincing by their haste that they too had been worsted, and were anxious to get away as quickly as possible. Several wounded men were brought in, who were carried on rude hammocks formed of plaited grass rope. An animated palaver ensued between the Vulture and the Leopard, in which they seemed to be recounting the unexpected failure of the assault, and, from their frequent gestures towards Melinda, it was evident that he too formed a topic of their conversation. Presently the Vulture, who bad by this time worked himself up into a towering passion, rushed towards the devoted youth and was about to plunge his spear into his breast, when the Leopard, who had hurried after him, stayed his arm. "Hold," said he, "why should you slay the youth, he only fought in defence of his life ?" "But for him, and yonder town would be ours. He it was who urged on the men to avenge the death of the king just as we were on the point of victory. Stay me not ; let me get at him and redden my spear in his heart's blood." "iDo you wish for revenge ? Why then slay him, the pain of death is sharp, but it is soon over ? " "True. I will spare him, but only to drag out a miserable existence in the slave- gang; there he will suffer tortures which will make him curse you for staying my hand when I was a)out to put him out of his misery; Live, 0 proud prince," I 145

SPORT 1N ASHANTI. continued he, spurning the prostrate youth with his foot, "but live to wish for death as a happy release." The fire in Melinda's eyes burned more fiercely than ever as the chief spoke these words, and he vainly struggled to burst his bonds in the effort to get at the taunting Vulture. A few minutes afterwards and the cords which bound the hands of Melinda to the earth were loosed, and he was violently jerked into a sitting posture. Then he had his fine clothes torn. off him, save the merest remnant of a waist-cloth, and a thick noose of grass rope was passed round his neck and securely knotted; his feet were then loosed, and he was dragged along to where a dozen others had been treated in a similar manner, and the noose made fast to a thick rope along with that of the other prisoners. A heavy bundle, consisting of the plunder of various towns, was next placed on the head of each, and then the melancholy train was set in motion. They marched on as rapidly as possible far into the night, vhen even the stalwart frames of the warriors felt the necessity of repose, and, unloosing the bundles from the heads of the captives, the whole party were soon fast asleep. About two o'clock, as Melinda lay awake, unable to sleep from the intensity of his feelings, he heard a loud purring close beside him. Scarcely had he time to raise his head than an enormous leopard sprang upon the captive who was slumbering beside him, and fixed his terrible claws in the man's breast, while his cruel teeth gripped his face; the leopard attempted to carry off his prey, in spite of the outcry which was at once raised, but the necks of the whole of the captives still remained fixed to the central rope, so that when the leopard sprang off with his prey he was obliged to drop it, in consequence of its being held by thp ropes. Several of the Rabbarori warriors came running up, in thO hope of saving the man's life, not from any motives of humanity, but because they would have to leave the burden behind them if the bearer were killed, as the captives were already laden a heavily as they could bear. 146

SOLD INTO SLA VERY. After this painful event the whole camp was broken up, and, although the morning was still far off, the march was continued. The following evening they arrived at the banks of the Niger, where a rendezvous had apparently been made, as a number of canoes were found ready to ferry them across. Arrived on the western bank of the river, a marsh of two days brought them to the confines of their own country, where they were safe from pursuit. Short as was the distance, however, the sufferings of the captives were painful in the extreme; weighed down by their loads, they could not keep up with the untrammelled warriors, who, with the characteristic cruelty of slaveowners, plied the whip as an incentive to quicken their pace. Several, unable to keep up, were loosened from the central rope and speared on the spot where they dropped, while others, with even greater cruelty, were left to perish in the wilderness where they fell. When they entered the capital they were hurried off to a large barn, where they found more than a hundred unfortunates like themselves huddled together, ready to be bought by the Arab traders. Melinda, with his spirit in no ways broken, eagerly looked out for an opportunity to escape, but he was so closely guarded by his captors that he never had a single chance. Three days after his arrival, when his strength had been recruited, he was led out into the market, along with several others, and sold to one of the Arab traders for a few guns and swords. While standing there moodily awaiting his fate, a slave was brought up for sale; though he had by this time seen dozens disposed of, there was something about this one which attracted his attention. Suddenly his eye lighted up, his whole frame quivered with excitement as he shrieked out the word, "Awoona! " Yes, it was too true. There, standing in the square was his bride Awoona, the daughter of Mpengala, being sold for a slave. Luckily was it that his hands were securely manacled, and that 147

SPORT IN ASHA NTI. a strong chain fastened his neck to a long central one that ran between each pair of captives. How his heart leaped to see his newly-wedded bride brought out and degraded before the eyes of his captors. His eyes strained as if they would burst their sockets, and his words choked his utterance, as, totally overcome by the excess of his feelings, he fainted. A calabash of cold water was dashed over him, and he was left to recover himself, his new master saying to a companion,-" Wife, I suppose; they often go on in this way at first, but a few days of the chain generally suffices to tame them. When Melinda recovered, Awoona had been removed, and he searched in vain for her among the chain-gangs of slaves. Unfortunate youth! on thy bridal day thy wife was snatched from thee, and it shall be many, many days ere thou shalt see her again. In a few days the purchase of all the slaves was completed, and the caravan started on its journey. Passing over the events of the way,-how many fell sick and died, how others escaped in the darkness, preferring to die in the woods rather than suffer the tortures of the slave-gang, and how others again were cruelly murdered by the furious temper of their captors when. ever they committed themselves,-we will suppose the caravan to have reached Coomassie, the capital of Ashanti. There a number of slaves were procured by the king to grace his next sacrifices or to be presented to his favourites: among those so purchased was Melinda, and the king, wishing to bestow a mark of favour upon Adumafree, presented him with Melinda as a slave. His master was an easy-going sort of a fellow, and, but for his memory, Melinda's life might have been a comfortable one. But his thoughts constantly reverted to his happy home on the banks of the far-off Niger, and to the beauteous Awoona his bride, who was carried away on her wedding night. Thus he contiued to mourn her loss until one day, when a number of slaves had been handed over to Adumafree, as a reward 148

NEWS OF A WOONA.49 for some distinguished service, Melinda beard his name pronounced in the well- remembered Yaurauri language. "Who speaks? " said he in excited tones; "It is I, Sogbogi." "Where! how! whence did you come ?" said Melinda. "I was sold to the same caravan as you were, and have been up away in Dwabin, where I was sold to my new master. But cheer up, for I have good news; among a batch of slaves who came through Dwabin were two of our countrymen, who said that Awoona still lived and was a slave-" "Awoona still alive ! Where? oh! tell me quickly!" "She lives away to the north among a people I do not know." "Then there is yet hone for Melinda.-he will live to regain his bride.' Day after day did Melinda question everybody as to whether they had seen a slave answering to the description of Awoona. Still the mystery remained unsolved; and when, on the death of his master, Melinda was again a free man and created a caboceer, he had still heard no tidings of his long-lost bride, though he was still as hopeful as ever that he should again find her. He had never had an opportunity of prosecuting his search to the north until lie was ordered to proceed to Coomassie from the Coast, and take an important message from the king of a neighbouring state. He was on that journey when he was introduced to our readers, and escorted Fortescue and myself to the capital. 149

CHAPTER VIII. TE OCRA-XING ROFFE'S RECEPTIO- GORGEOUS ASMEWMLY-rocEssIoN OF NOBLES-THE FETICHE TREE OF COOMASSIrE-ALACE OF THE KING. WE@ left Fortescue and Danvers waiting to be presented to the king. On the morning after Mingoten brought and received his "dash," as our travellers were partaking of breakfast, Aziza came in and announced the approach of one of the king's Ocras, and, to judge by the fearful din of horns, drums, trumpets, and other instruments of music (?), they were about to be interviewed by one of the "big wigs" of Ashanti. These Ocras are a peculiar institution of the country. They are of three kinds : first, relatives of the king; second, soldiers; and third, slaves. These, for distinguished services, or other praiseworthy actions, are exempt from all taxes, palavers, or military service, and are kept in splendid style from the royal exchequer, on the condition that when the king dies they offer themselves as sacrifices on his tomb. The Ocras of the first class alone are not sacrificed, as to them the king entrusts the state Fecrets (whatever they may be), and his intended plans of war, t.ixation, etc.; they are easily distinguished by a massive golden

THE OCRAS. circle, like a quoit, suspended round their necks by golden . Besides this, they are always attended by a numerous retinue, and the greatest respect is paid to them. As the noisy throng entered the courtyard, we noticed the Ocra stalking along beneath the shade of an enormous umbrella, like an overgrown mushroom in shape, made of silks of the gaudiest colours, and bearing as a device a very wretched parody upon a rampant lion sewn upon each lappet. Presently, while the band were doing their uttermost to either deafen us or, at least, give us a splitting headache, Melinda entered and, making a profound obeisance, announced the approach of Quakoo Duabeh, a nephew of the king, who had brought a message from his Majesty. "Well, we are gradually getting at royalty you see, Danvers," said Fortescue. " First a private, then an officer, next a minister, and now a relative; when we have received all the brothers and sisters, I suppose we shall be allowed to look at his Majesty himself." "Let us hope Quakoo Duabeh brings us a summons to the palace; to judge from his retinue, and the airs he is giving himself, he must be the bearer of important news." By this time nearly fifty attendants of the king's nephew had crowded into the room and squatted down on the side opposite to that on which we sat. Then came a couple of youths, carrying long knives with gold-plated handles, and lastly a cadaverouslooking fellow with a curiously-carved stool, richly embellished with golden ornaments, followed by the Ocra himself. Quakoo advanced towards us holding out his hand, and, after we had snapped fingers together, sat down and commenced the usual teetotal ceremony of drinking water to "cool the hearts" of the host and guest. Then taking a long somethin g wrapped in scarlet cloth, which had been carefully preserved from accident by one of the attendants, he unveiled a slender ivory rod, and, presenting it to us on bended knees, delivered the following me3sage "King Koffee Kalcalli, King of Ashanti, sends greeting to the 151

SPORT IN ASHANTI. white men who have visited his country. Let them eat, drink, and sleep, for to- morrow he will receive them in the eastern market-place, and then give them permission to pass through Coomassie, that they may see all its people, houses, and markets. "He then will show them one custom, after which they may travel on to the mountains in the north. He also gives permission for Melinda to accompany the white men to act as guide and protector. "Nevertheless, the king does not understand why white men should come to Ashanti if they have no trade palaver, and no palaver from their king to the King of Ashanti." To this speech, which occupied nearly half an hour in its delivery, so often was it interrupted by the bowings and scrapings of the speaker and his attendants, Fortescue made a suitable reply, thanking his Majesty for his permission for us to travel through his country, and also for giving us an opportunity of inspecting his capital. Rum was then brought out and distributed to the Ocra and his attendants, the great man by no means declining to share a tumbler of rum with the meanest of his followers. Truly in Africa the sublime and the ridiculous run close upon the heels of each other! Having finished off every drop of liquor which had been set out, the Ocra arose, and, again filliping his digits with ours, his band struck up and he departed, much to our relief, for some of his bodyguard had been recently freshly pomatumed, and were redolent of anything but eau.de-cologne. "If ever I turn Ashantee chief I will insist on my retainers disinfecting themselves every morning before they attend upon me," said Fortescue, as he turned to the open window to get a little pure air. "Just wait till the reception, and then you will get an idea of what a well-greased nigger is like," said I. "We shall have no easy time of it, I expect, for the state ceremonies are awfully patience-trying affairs." 152

EARLY HO URS. "The sooner come the sooner go. We may as well go the whole hog, as our Yankee friends call it, as come out here and see nothing." Presently Melinda came in, and from him we learned that we were to be received by the king at eight o'clock the next morn. ing. "Rather early hours for the aristocracy at home," said I; "fancy a drawing-room at St. James's at eight A.M. !" "It would certainly create a sensation," said Fortescue. "Shall we go through much ceremony at the reception, Melinda ?" "Not too much. White men are generally excused from going down on their knees to the king, and several other forms are omitted in their case." "So they ought to. I should think no white man would bow the knee to any black monarch, however powerful he might be." We were stirring betimes the next morning, and, having breakfasted, donned our smartest clothing and awaited our summons. "If we only had the run of a theatrical yvardrobe," said I, "we might create a sensation. The more showy the dress the greater the consequence of the wearer." "So I expect. I don't think our conventional swallow-tailed black suits would exactly meet their ideas of full dress." "Certainly not. A militianan or a brass-bound midshipman would put the whole of Burke's 'Peerage' in the shade if they were dressed en rejqle." A great noise of shouting and scuffling here attracted our attention, and, upon looking out of our window, we found it to proceed from our hammock-men, who were disputing as to who should carry our hammocks and who should walk by our side. Aziza, who had stood cdInly looking on while the strife waxed fiercer and fiercer around him, here interfered, and settled the palaver by making the extra hammock-men carry our spare ham. 153

SPORT IN ASHANTI. mocks, with one of our attendants in it to take our "place*." The disputants looked rather glum at the change of affairs, but at this instant a loud firing of guns and beating of drums announced the arrival of the Ocra who was to conduct us to the presence. Quakoo, who was dressed with even greater magnificence than on the previous occasion, snapped fingers with us, and appeared to be put in the best of humours by the offer of our brandybottle. Upon this occasion he was accompanied by his full retinue; his executioner rejoiced in a whitewashed visage, while his head was surmounted by a monkey-skin cap with the face in front; his tunic was covered with magical charms, carefully tied up in small bunches and affixed to the garment. All were copiously besmeared with blood, while a very ominous necklace of human teeth hung over his bosom; he carried a broad-bladed sword, fretted like a fish-slice, and rusty with the gore of its victims. Besides this important personage, there were two interpreters, etiquette requiring every person of rank to have one at least of these officers attached to him, whether the conversation is carried on in Ashantee or not; the idea appears to be that the palaver, by being heard by a second person, has a better chance of being correctly remembered than if only one were present. Then came the stool-bearers and sword-boys, carrying their peculiar charges swathed in white cotton cloths. The band followed, and was succeeded by about a hundred soldiers; the latter were dressed in a kind of unirorm, consisting of striped tunics reaching to the knee, confined round the waist by cartouche belts of black leather, profusely ornamented with leopard skin cut in strips and hanging down like a fringe; the decoration was completed by rows of small shells, stained red, while not a few had small brass bells interchanged with the leopard tails, which * The "places" of officers are usually filled by confidential slaves. All the respect accruing to the master is paid to the "place" ex ojjicio. Melinda was generally chosen as the "place" of his master. 154

THE RECEP2ION. 55 tinkled with a not unpleasing sound as they moved. Three or four knives were stuck in their belts or slung over their shoulders, while a cap of pangolin skin a la Ganadienne completed their get-up. The bravest were distinguished by having their faces painted in stripes of white or yellow ochre, much after the fashion of the Australians at a corroboray. Entering our hammocks we were soon started, preceded by the Ocra and his band, while a rearguard of his soldiers followed Us. The streets were lined with crowds of people, who stared at us as we were carried past, while scores of naked pot-bellied urchins tumbled head over heels, or wrestled with each other with that obliviousness of passing events which characterises their race. As we entered the market-place we were carried underneath a horrible fetiche gallows, some twenty feet high, from the cross. pole of which a slaughtered goat was suspended, and liberally shedding perfume on the breeze. "Thank Heaven! you and I, Danvers, were not born in a country where the religion necessitates a fellow to be utterly regardless of offence to the nose, to say nothing of the eye." "They might, at least, have honoured us with a fresh victim." "I expect that in this favoured land, goats are more valuable than human beings." "Perhaps so. I hope his Majesty will not favour us with a private view of an execution; but we had better be prepared for it." "We will object to it if he does, though I am afraid our wishes will be regarded with anything but favour." By this time we had reached the centre of the market-place, where several thousand people were assembled. In the centre was a circular structure built of swish on a series of steps, the highest being about ten feet above the general level. Round this a number of gorgeous umbrellas were erected, the handles being stuck into holes in the ground. These were of every possible hue and material, crimson, blue, yellow, green, purple, and 155

SPORT IN ASHANTI. scarlet. Some were big enough to shelter forty persons, while others were no larger than an ordinary carriage umbrella. They were all ornamented with birds, beasts, and fishes, neatly sewn on, and forming a glaring contrast by their colour with the ground upon which they were fixed. The tops of the umbrellas were decorated with wooden figures of men, animals, and weapons, while not a few had golden elephants, pelicans, lions, powder-kegs, and similar objects by way of finish off. In the rear of these we could just discern some splendid hammocks of coloured velvet, each borne on the heads of half-adozen carriers. A crowd of officers, whose golden accoutrements. glittered in the sun, were sitting beneath the umbrellas, while in the centre Koffee Kalkalli, King of Ashanti, sat in regal splendour. As we entered the cleared space between the caboceers surrounding the throne of his Majesty and the thousands of warriors and civilians who lined the outside, presenting long vistas of sable faces as we looked up the streets which entered the market-place, salvo after salvo of musketry was fired in our honour, until the dense smoke bid all but the nearest objects from our view. "What a fine thing it must be for the merchants on the coast, this delight in burning powder," said Fortescue. "Yes, and what a mercy it is for us that the powder is so bad, for if it were of even moderate strength, it would burst their jimcrack guns at the first discharge. Just look at that fellow preparing to load." "Why, I declare, he has put two handfuls of powder in his gun!" "Yes! and when you remember the guns can be bought for seven and sixpence, you may be thankful that the greater part of the powder is charcoal." When the soldiers had exhausted their ammunition, and thesmoke cleared off, we alighted from our hammocks, and approached the inner circle of caboceers who surrounded the king. During the whole of this salute, Richards had been trembling 156

PICHARDS' TERROR. in mortal dread lest his head would be blown off, and as savages are wonderfully quick at observing any signs of timidity in any one, especially a white man, the soldiers were not by any means inclined to let such an opportunity slip. Creeping up close to our nervous servant a stalwart warrior would hold his musket by his side, and then pulling the trigger let it off with a loud roar like that of a young cannon. Poor Richards jumped about with more agility than he had ever shown in his life at each discharge, and was by no means reassured by the roars of laughter that greeted him on every side. "What on earth are you afraid of, Richards?" said I. "Cannot you see that all this display is in our honour. Depend upon it that if they intend killing us they will not begin with you. For the respectability of your sex, pray keep up an outward appearance of dignity." "But, sir," chattered he through his teeth, "they come up so close to me that I am afraid they really mean to murder me." "No wonder they attempt to play tricks with you when you make such a ninny of yourself. If you do not keep a better front, I will send you back to our quarters alone." The effect of this threat was to cause our timorous servant to steady his nerves to the best of his ability; but his fear-stricken visage as he stared wildly about was enough to make any one laugh at, while they pitied, his chicken-heartedncss. The king's interpreters, headed by Mingoten, now approached, with a slow and stately step. Their breastplates were of solid gold, reminding us of the Urim and Thummim of the Jewish priesthood, while they bore in their hands long rods peeled white and tipped with golden ornamens. Guided by these officers we paraded thrice round the circle of caboceers, shaking hands with each as we arrived opposite him. As there were more than a hundred, our fingers ached considerably by the time we had finished our rounds. These nobles were sumptuously dressed, and as they were surrounded by their household, opportunity was afforded in passing from one to the other of taking notice of their dresses. 157

SPORT IN ASHANTI. All wore tunics of silk* of native manufacture, besides a heavy toga of the same costly material. Their waists were encircled with sashes of silk, in which several daggers with golden handles were stuck. Innumerable strings of aggry or popo beads,t coral, golden and silver casts of animals, birds, men or weapons, depended from their necks, besides beautifully wrought golden necklaces of native filigree work. Their tunics were covered with fetiche charms and Moorish amulets, all encased in little bags or square pockets of leather, beautifully embroidered with coloured thread and beads. These were sewn on the tunic in various places, and were supposed to protect the wearer from injury from every evil. The knees, arms, ankles, and wrists, were heavily loaded with strings of beads, while many of the higher officers had lumps of rock gold attached to their wrists of such a weight that they were supported on the heads of boys who squatted before them. Their head-dresses were various. Some wore fillets of leather or silk, embroidered with beads and golden circles, stars, and triangles, from which plumes of eagles' feathers nodded in the breeze. Others rejoiced in long ram's horns, thickly gilded and sticking out from their heads with a truly demon look. A third set wore nothing but their hair, which, however, was threaded through aggry beads, nuggets of gold and silver, and golden ornaments, so that it was the most costly head-dress of them all. Each cabooceer had his stool of curiously carved angona wood, richly inlaid and plated with gold, and carried on the head of a slave, and swords of state, with broad circinal-ended blades rusted in human blood, and their golden handles supporting bags of beautiful leather-work, containing a whole doctor's-shopful of The silk is of European manufacture; unravelled and rewoven in the native looms. t The aggry or popo bead is a kind of jasper which is found in many places along the Gold Coast. So highly valued are they for their magic virtue3 that it is no uncommon thing for thrice their weight in gold to be paid for them. Among the poorer classes several persons will have a joint interest in the ownership of a single bead. 158

A GORG1BOUS ASSENLY magic medicine, besides golden casts of the heads of various animals, often life size. The band in the centre of each group was principally composed of drums, with human thigh-bones disposed saltier-wise around them, while the drumsticks had a human skull by way of hiltguard. This gorgeous display of the precious metal as it glistened in the sun, caused the tout ensemble of the pageant to be splendid in the extreme. Our eyes fairly ached with the reflected rays from the polished breastplates and ornaments on the caboceers, and the glaring colours of the umbrellas, lit up with the vertical rays of a tropical sun, shone out with a brilliancy unknown in more northern climes.* After our trinal parade, we halted before a large stool covered with human crania and stained deeply with the blood of the victims. Presently a hum rising from the crowd to our right caused us to turn our heads in tiiat direction, when a sight met our gaze that chilled us with horror, while the lily-livered Richards could scarcely stand, so violently did his knees beat against each other. The spectacle which was paraded before us was truly Ashantee in its barbarous cruelty. A man in the prime of life, naked, save a coarse cloth round his loins, with his hands tied with grass rope behind him, was led along by a cord tied round his hleck. This was the first human victim we had seen in Ashanti, and we inwardly prayed that it might be the last. To prevent the unhappy wretch from asking the king to spare his life, when by the national law it must be granted, a knife was stuck through each cheek, the two blades crossing over each other above his tongue. To complete the fearful picture, a broad-bladed dagger was run under each shoulder-blade, and there were several gashes on his cheeks and breast. We anxiously asked Melinda for what crime this unfortunate man was thus tortured, and to our astonishment learnt that it * The reviewer who complained that the illustrations in 'Dahomey as it t ' were too highly coloured had evidently never been in the tropics. 1159 SPO]?T IN ASHANTI. was customary for the king to put several prisoners of war or slaves to death when any person of consequence came to the capital, merely to show his power. Our attention was happily soon called off this horrible sight by the blowing of a number of ivory trumpets, announcing the advent of the long ivory rod without which no visitor can be received by the king. In a few moments Quakoo, the Ocra, summoned us to approach the line of caboceers which led to the stool whereon his Majesty of Ashanti was seated. Koffee Kalkalli, the notorious King of Ashanti, as he appeared before us, gave us rather a damper from what we had expected. We thought to have seen a middle- aged, hard-featured, savagelooking man, instead of which the person who advanced to meet us from his stool was a young and by no means bad looking person. He shook hands with us with an innate dignity which would have at once distinguished him from his companions. He said he was glad to receive a visit from Europeans, and wished us to stay for some time in his capital. We politely declined, and told him that we were only hunters, and had not come prepared to stay at Coomassie. Compliments flowed fast and free between us, for Koffee Kalcalli is as great an adept in that art of conversation as the greatest lounger of our West-End drawingrooms. Meanwhile the Ocras had gathered round us, much to the horror of Richards, who imagined of course that they were bent upon taking his life. A richly inlaid table of French manufacture was brought out, and several golden basins set out thereon. Water was then poured from a golden calabash, and Koffee Kalcalli, Fortescue, and I pledged ourselves in a very clayey liquid, lukewarm and sickly. Rum, claret, sherry, a bottle of the omnipresent Bass's bottled beer, and several calabashes of native pitto and palm-wine were set out, and we were invited to fall to, and, to judge by the example set by the Ocras, the idea seemed to try who could get intoxicated in the shortest possible time. During this ceremony we had an opportunity of examining the 116o

XNG KOPFPJ7A'S AlA GWIFICENCE. king. If the dresses of the courtiers were splendid, that of his Majesty was still more so. A tunic of silk descending to the knee, beneath which a pair of crimson velvet drawers appeared, was thickly covered with charms encased in solid gold frames. Over his left shoulder a blue and white striped velvet robe was thrown, much after the fashion of a Roman toga, while from its extremities several bunches of aggry beads jingled at every step. The number of bracelets, anklets, and necklaces he wore must have been highly uncomfortable by reason of their weight, to say nothing of an immense nugget of more than half a pound weight* which was suspended from his left wrist by a massive gold chain. Sandals of Moslem workmanship, richly embroidered in silk and coloured leather, protected his feet, and having a number of bells attached, he reminded us of the nursery heroine who had "Music wherever she goes." His face and neck were daubed with pomatum of a pea-green colour, the unguent being applied in spirals and other curves, just as the Kanakas tattoo themselves. Finally his head was crowned by a fillet studded with gold nuggets and popo beads, from which a circle of eagles' feathers drooped gracefully to. wards his shoulders. Behind him stood a body-guard who wore breast-plates of gold surrounded by human jawbones of the same metal, ever ready to do his bidding, while the custodians of the royal stool, cased wholly in gold, the golden drums, trumpets, dishes, shields, and other insignia of rank, formed a small crowd on either side. The ceremony of drinking the king's health being over, Koffee Kalcalli retired to his stool, leaving Quakoo to conduct us to tho welcome shelter of an immense mushroom umbrella which had been set up for our accommodation. "No wonder this country received the name of the Gold * I have seen such a nugget in the possession of one of the tributary kings of Ashanti. The wealth of the king has lately been grossly undcrestimteoL M

SPORT IN ASHANTI. Coast," said 1ortescue, when we had sat down and, following the example of the caboceers, had started our pipes. "To judge from the quantity of the precious metal before us, it must be of less value than silver." "Some of the good people at home would have us believe that the accounts of the quantity of gold in the country have been very much exaggerated, but we have proof before our eyes that such is not the case." "Some people seem to delight in running down everything connected with a semi- civilized race, except when some deluded fanatic gathers an audience around him, and vents his ignorance in an oration on the man-and-brother theory. In that case, if we were to believe them, the savage races of Africa are Tyndalls, Broughams, and Huxleys in embryo." "I wish some of them would come out and see for themselves, instead of listening to the yarns of, in too many cases, interested persons." "What a comfort it is that state etiquette permits one to smoke in the presence, otherwise the proximity of so many 4men and brethren' would be too much for my nerves." "I wonder what is the next thing on the programme. But here comes Melinda, looking as though he had been through the black door of the fairy palace, and bad been caught in a shower of its golden rain." Our dragoman truly was ablaze with the number of polished gold stars, crescents, circles, and other ornaments with which his garments were liberally bestrewn. "The king wishes his white visitors to see the march-past of the caboceers, after which they may return to their homes." "We are much obliged to his Majesty for the opportunity afforded us of a review of his troops, but hope they will not detain us too long, for we are pretty well baked already." "Ah! there you see black men have the advantage over white ones. We can stand the heat of the sun which would kill one of your countrymen." "If you think that an advantage come over to England and x62

PROCESSION OF CABOCEERS. try one of our winters. Do you know water is sometimes solid in our country, Melinda? " "So it is in ours when it is dried up," returned he laughing. "But how can the water be solid when it is dried up ? We mean that the water in a calabash could be lifted out in one piece as though it were glass." "White men have great fetiche, and can do many curious things, but they must not think that black men are such fools as to believe that they can make water solid like stone." "It is nevertheless true. The sun grows cold, and then the water turns into stone, and we have to put it over a fire to cause it to liquefy again." "White men have wonderful things; Melinda will think over it," said he, shaking his head dubiously. While this conversation was going on, the caboceers bad been mustering their retainers around them, and when all was complete, a loud blast on the ivory trumpets near the king set the column in motion. As each caboceer marched past us in all the panoply of gold, silk, and ivory, he bowed to us, halting for a moment, and then passed on to make way for the next. Some of the caboceers who were rather aged were supported round the waist by the arms of a couple of slaves, whilst their ears were deafened by a couple of heralds, who bawled their titles into their ears in a manner which, to say the least of i4j must have been unpleasant. We were greatly surprised to see several youths, mere boys in fact, who appeared to be well-nigh borne down by the weight of their ornaments. These, we were informed by Melinda, were the successors to the stools of caboceers who bad died, and who, although minors, were entitled to wear all the insignia of their rank. In this inter esting but broiling occupation we were engaged for nearly two hours; the sun beating down upon the top of our umbrella with truly tropical power, and rendering the shade of our tent canopy scarcely less endurable than the open sunshine. 163

SPORT IN ASHANTI. When the last of the golden troupe bat bowed himself out, a loud blast of horns and a salvo of musketry announced the exit of the king, who soon after appeared reclining on a splendid hammock of dark-green velvet, embroidered in gold and crimson. Bowing to us, he was carried out of the square, followed by his huge retinue, the Ocras bringing up the rear with a national tune performed by near three-score musicians. When the royal corlege had left the market-place, Melinda conducted us back to our quarters, where we arrived just at sundown, heartily tired with the day's sight- seeing. The next morning Quakoo was at our house betimes to bring us a complimentary message from the king, and to summon us to the palace. " If we are to be hurried off without our breakfasts, I hope his Majesty will have a little pity upon our stomachs, and not detain us too long. When will the interview with his Majesty terminate, Quakoo " "About sunset." "Sunset! Why, we haven't tasted our breakfasts yet. We can surely wait until we have had a little to eat?" said Fortescue with some warmth. "When the king calls, all must obey," said Quakoo loftily, evidently intending to impress us with a sense of his own importance and that of the king. "That's all very well for his subjects; but, as we are foreigners, we must decline to attend any leve'e without first replenishing our famished stomachs. Why, we had nine hours of it yesterday." "Nevertheless, you must come," returned Quakoo, undismayed by the remarks of Fortescue. "I'll be-" "Wait a minute," said I, interrupting him, "I think I can settle this business. Would you like a glass of brandy, Quakoo P' High dignitary as he was, the offer of a draugh of "white man s rum" was more than he could refuse; and comfortably settling himself in a chair, he anxiously regarded the pouring out 64

FETICHE TREE OF COOJIASSIE. of the fire-water. Gulping it down as though it were ale, and smacking his lips with evident satisfaction, a few minutes sufficed to work out the charm. "If you want to chop," * said he, "I think I could wait a short time; but you must be quick about it." "Oh! certainly. We'll lose no time once we begin." "I thought I knew the way to the old sinner's heart," said I to Fortescue, as we commenced our breakfast of stewed fowls and yam. " So it appears. The Ashantis are as open to 'spiritual conversion' as any nation, I should think." Our repast occupied but a short time in discussing, and the hammocks and bearers having been ordered beforehand, we were soon en route for the palace of Koffee Kalcalli. "I wonder what sort of a place we shall find his Majesty resides in ?" said Fortescue. "Well, I expect that it will differ in but very little, except size, from the residences of his nobles. What is that tree fenced round for, Melinda?" I continued, pointing to a huge cotton-tree, with a rude palisading of bamboo round its foot. "That tree is big fetiche for Coomassie. When this kingdom was first founded, the king sat under that tree while he chose a site whereon to build his chief town. Hence the town was called ' Coom-assie,' ' under the tree.' When any harm happens to that tree, some evil will happen to Ashanti." "Then, to judge from appearances, the doom of the country is sealed," said I, in an aside, to Fortescue. "Suppose we take a look at the national palladium." "With all my heart. Stop for a moment, while we examine the fetiche tree." When we had alighted from our hammocks we approached the sacred Bombax. It had evidently once been a fine tree, but was now hastening to decay. Strings of beads, rags, gun-flints, skins of various animals, snakes, birds' heads, feathers, and a host of Chop is the Coast term for eating as well as the food itself. 165

SPORT IN ASHANTI similar articles dangled from every accessible twig, while the trunk and branches were thickly daubed with palm-oil and other offerings. A perfect museum of fetiche pottery was stuck in the ground between the buttresses of the trunk, from which a score of vultures were startled from their sacrilegious meal by our approach. The stench from the decaying animal matter was horrible, and we were glad to get round to the weather-side as soon as possible. " So this tree is the fetiche for Coomassie?" said Fortescue addressing Quakoo. "This tree be big fetiche for true. Suppose a man have a twig of it about his person, he will never be shot in battle. His enemies may fire at him, but their bullets will never reach him, however near they may be to him." " Have you a piece of this protective deity about you, Quakoo ?" "Oh! yes, several," exhibiting half-a-dozen square leather bags, embroidered in beads and shells. Quakoo was too powerful a caboceer to be without a piece of the kotonda. "And do you really believe that that trumpery piece of leather and stick will protect you from the bullets of your enemies ?" ".Ah! white men do not understand these things. Quakoo knows that his fetiche is good, but the white people are ignorant of its virtues." "Then, if you are confident in its powers, let me have a shot at you, say at a hundred yards' distance. You say you would not be harmed, and it would add considerably to your reputation if your friends knew that you possessed a fetiche which had protected you from the guns of the white people." "My fetiche is good to protect me from any man's gun. Let me put it on one of my slaves, and then you can fire at him." " Oh! no; that would not be fair," said Fortescue laughing. "The fetiehe is to protcct yourself, and not your slave." "The white man does not understand the fetiche of the black man," returned Quakoo, evidently annoyed at our scepticism, 166

THE KING' S PALA CE. "but let us get on to the palace. Koffee Kalcalli does not like to be kept waiting." Mounting our hammocks we were carried across the square, where we were received yesterday, and then turning sharply to the left we passed down a fine street with some magnificent limetrees growing on the sides, and presently found ourselves opposite the entrance to the palace of the Ashantee monarch. Our first impressions of the residence of the blood-thirsty King of Ashanti by no means struck us as inducing a knowledge of his power. A wall of mud some twenty feet high, with a rude wooden gate in the centre, with a thatched porch, was all that we could see, although there were some curious objects projecting from the wall, near the side posts of the gates, which were very suggestive of human skulls and thigh-bones. We alighted from our hammocks, and took up our stations under a grove of mango-trees, where we awaited a summons to enter the palace. Crowds of inquisitive persons of all ages gathered round us to criticise our every movement, as well as to gratify their curiosity. A band of horns and drums were making hideous noises in the shadow of the porch, and a few soldiers were lounging about. In front, and on each side of the gate, were several fetiche deities, but all were evidently much the worse for wear. Among them we recognised the ugly squat human figure, whose grinning face had greeted us on our entrance into the town. In a few moments a flourish of horns and a loud firing of guns announced that the king had left his private apartments and gone into the reception-halL The gates of the palace shortly after opened, and we were summoned to enter. Passing through the rickety portal, which closed behind us with an ominous crash, we crossed a spacious courtyard and entered a second, on the opposite side of which was the receptionball. In shape it resembled an English barn with a very high pitched roof, but the windows were surrounded with a wooden framing plated with gold of the thickness of cardboard. An

SPOR T IN ASHA NTI earthen staircase led up to the first floor, wherein the king, attended by his suite, was reclining on some splendid mats spread out on a sofa of European manufacture. He was dressed quite as magnificently as yesterday as regards the gold ornaments upon his person, but an ugly grass skull-cap encased his head, while his only garment was a toga of a substance which strongly reminded us of bed-ticking. Several slaves kept the royal brows cool with fans of eagles' feathers, while others copiously sprinkled scents of various kinds about the floor. Upon entering we were conducted to the king, who snapped fingers with us, and then pointing to a couple of velvet-stuffed chairs, bade us sit down. Our escorts, meanwhile, had squatted down upon their knees, and, as we retired to our seats, were busily engaged in a sham-heaping of dust upon their heads. The conversation opened by the king asking us if we had really come to hunt and shoot birds and catch insects, or whether we had come to raise palavers with his enemies "We are simply hunters," said Fortescue. "Why should we raise palavers ? Should we not be embroiled in them ourselves, and we did not come prepared for war." "That is good. Melinda has told me that you are tame men, and have no palaver with our person." "What on earth does he mean by our being tame men?" said Fortescue with surprise. "I suppose he means that we are not quarrelsome, meddling persons, who invariably cause palavers wherever they go." A troop of the king's wives here paraded before us, carrying in a number of boxes which were set down before the king. They were magnificently dressed in silks and other robes, and the king evidently thought that they would make a great impression upon us as he eyed us with a self-satisfied air. " Would you like to smoke ?" said he, after the women had retired, and his own pipe-bearers were engaged in filling the royal pipe and lighting the tobacco by means of a flint and steel. x68

THE ASHAN7TEE REGALIA. "We were not aware that it was permitted for persons to smoke in the presence of the king. We will, however, avail ourselves of your offer." Fortescue here pulled out his cigar-case, and offered one to the king, who, however, declined it. He then produced a cigartube, much to the astonishment of the king and his courtiers. "Why do you put your cigars in pipes ?" said he. "Because it is much pleasanter to smoke the cigars with them than to hold them in your teeth." "Good. I must get some from Cape Coast Castle." Melinda here whispered to us that we were expected to give the king our cigar- tubes, for that it was contrary to all precedent for the king to want anything that one of his people was possessed of. Although we did not see that because we were visitors we came under the same laws as his own subjects, yet we presented our cigar-tubes to the king, who received them with an air which was intended to convey to us the impression that it was a very great condescension upon his part to accept them. The boxes which were placed before the king were then opened, and we 'vere invited to inspect their contents. "The king wishes you to see some of his treasures," said Quakoo, who evidently thought that we were about to receive a great surprise. The first box contained a number of glass marbles, indiarubber toys, and similar articles, which were exhibited with all the pomp and pride of an emperor displaying his regalia. The other boxes were filled with similar articles, highlycoloured German prints (would that all the vile daubs were confined to Ashanti), flags, images, clocks without springs, but that of course was of little consequence, looking-glasses, accordeons, concertinas, all very asthmatical; a kaleidoscope, a pair of brass chamber candlesticks, and a prune jar with a glass lid. Such a collection of rubbish as might be gathered up from the remaining stock of any English pawnbroker after he had had a sale 169

SPORT IN ASHANTI by auction, was here stored up with the most scrupulous care. As each object was exhibited the assembly burst out into yells of admiration, while we could scarcely keep down our risibility as we were requested to inspect the wonderful mechanism of a wooden monkey sliding up and down a stick. Meanwhile, claret was served out in crimson tumblers with gilt rims, and his Majesty helped himself to several glasses before he could bring his thirst to an end. Koffee Kalcalli evidently had no intention of joining the Good Templars. A very desultory conversation ensued, and at length we rose and prepared to depart, having obtained permission to hunt on the northern frontiers of the kingdom, besides which his Majesty promised to supply us with letters of introduction, or, in other words, a friendly message to the King of Kangboden, whose country immediately adjoined that of Koffee Kalcalli. As we passed through the courtyards on our way to the palace gate, we were several times stopped by the Ocras, who presented us with cooked provisions, fruit, several bottles of rum, and other things, and as we were leaving the palace Mingoten gave Fortescue and I a finely carved silver-mounted pipe, with a wooden case, closely resembling two hockey-sticks placed side-byside. Besides the pipes, there was a complete set of smoking apparatus, comprising a blue and scarlet leather tobacco pouch, a flint and steel, tinder, tobacco, and last, but by no means least, an intelligent lad whose duty it was to fill and light our pipes when we wished to indulge in a smoke. Right glad were we to enter our homes, for the conference had lasted several hours, and although it may be a very nice thing to have private conversation with a live king, still sitting for several hours on a chair surrounded by three hundred perspiring niggers is not calculated to impress one with a very exalted idea of the pleasures of state. 170

CHAPTER X. A PR AA AND THE DOCTCR-THE GREEGREE-orOMBAYS vICrIM-AN ANTIGREEGREE CRACKER- LIGHT OF THE FETICIIEER-ANOTHER PATIENT" WANTED, A SEIDLITZ POWIER"-STATE THIEVES-AN EXECUTION. ON the day of our arrival, one of the hammock-men was taken ill with a slight fever, accompanicd by severe pains in the head. Fortescue with his usual kindness had prescribed for him, and in the morning bad given him a seidlitz powder to cool the fever. Unfortunately the adminlistration of the medicine was witnessed by a number of Mingoten's followers, and I had been afraid that we should be called upon to perform cures such as the proprietors of Holloway's pills or other catholicon would not even dare to attempt. Nor was I wrong in my surmises. On the morning after our levee we were quietly sitting at breakfast, arranging our plans for the future, when Sackie came in and said that we were wanted. "Who wants us P" said I. "Abraba." "And who is Abraba that we should dance attendance upon him ? " said Fortescue with some warmth, for be had gradually drifted into the country custom of making niggers wait upon

SPORT IV AS4HANTI. him, instead of him upon niggers, however exalted they might call themselves. "He is the king's goldsmith,-a man who saveys too much." "Is it he who makes the golden ornaments which the cabo. ceers wear ? " "Yes, that is the man." "Well, what does he want with us ? We are not anxious to decorate ourselves with a few pounds' weight of golden stars, cannon, frogs, and such things." "He is sick, and wants some of your medicine." "Phew! That's the cause of his visit, is it? Well, let him come in; [ hope your prophecy with regard to the rush upon our medicine-case will not be verified, Danvers." "Mark my words, if ever you cure a nigger you will be pestered to death by all the maimed, halt, and blind within a radius of ten miles. The worst of it is that they will not go away until they have obtained some nostrum or other.* "Well, let the goldsmith come in, Sackie." In a few moments the royal artificer made his appearance; he was evidently suffering from low fever, which, in spite of half a score talismans he carried at his waist, had brought him very low indeed. He was accompanied by his private fetiche-man, who kept dancing about and waving a long whisk of split bamboo, whilst he chanted some magic dutty which was to effect a cure. "Well, Abraba, what is the matter with you? " said Fortescue. "I am very sick; my head burns, and my eyes are dim, and everything seems to dance around me." "Not far wrong there, if this dancing dervish has been in attendance upon you for any length of time." "I have no strength to walk, I cannot eat, and-" "All right, we will soon set you going again. Take-for lIeaven's sake turn that dancing imp out of the room before he drives one's senses away," exclaimed he as the fetiche-man, evidently very much put out at the goldsmith having no faith in 172

O1POMBA'S THRLEA 77 his medicines, began to caper about still more wildly than before. "If that fellow imagines he is going to cure Abraba by his gymnastic performances, he is evidently not disposed to spare his muscles." The fetiche-man refused to go away, and began to pour out fearful omens upon the head of the offending goldsmith. "You have put your faith in the white man's fetiche. Who has cured so many devils as Opomba? Who can make stronger talismans than Opomba? Why shou'd lie fail to cure Abraba, when he has cured so many beforetimes ? You have offended your fetiches; you have invoked the wrath of Zogpotin, the spirit of sick men, and on your head the vengeance of the great fetiche will fall. Do you think if the white men cure you that you will never be ill again? Do you think that because you have put me on one side that you can evade me? No! If you die, it is because you have offended my fetiche, and if you live, it is because I have already made strong fetiche for you. But know thou, Abraba, and all you standing around him, that it is a bad thing to offend the Zogpotin's fetiche, and wherever you may be he will find you out and punish you." With an outstretched arm and eyes staring from their sockets, while he fairly boiled with wrath, Opomba strode from the apartment and, accompanied by his assistant, hastened away. The effect of his words was apparent upon all Abraba's people as well as upon himself. " Let us return and not accept the white man's medicine for Abraba," said one. "Opomba will make fetiche to kill Abraba if he takes the medicine from the white man," said another. "You surely do not heed that worthless fellow's words, do you, Abraba ? " said Fortescue, endeavouring to cheer the goldsmith, who, fairly cowed by the implied threats of the juju-man, sat trembling from head to foot, while his countenance exhibited the greatest terror. "Opomba is a great fetichist; he can call down the vengeance 173

SPORT IN ASHANTI. of the fetiches upon any man at his will. I am sorry I came to you for medicine." "Oh! stuff and nonsense. Do you think we care for his threatenings ?" A braba shook his head. "So Agoogala defied Opomba when he refused his medicine. In six moons Agoogala was not-the fetiche took him." "Say rather he was poisoned by Opomba." "No, no! Opomba did not live in the same town as Agoogala. Agoogala offended the fetiche, and he was taken." "I think it is useless to try to uproot the belief in fetichism from the minds of these people," said Fortescue to me as the goldsmith, after refusing our medicine, took his departure. "What a horrible state of afairs where a whole nation is ,owed down by the superstitious dread of the power of a few priests !" "Ash anti is not the only country that is priest-ridden ; look at Spain, for example." "Yes ; and if we were not to keep a sharp look-out, England herself would be overrun by a set of crafty money-grubbing fetichists." "I only hope I shall not live to see the day. Well, what is it, Saclde ? " "Abraba sends his compliments to you, and begs you to excuse hiln from taking your medicine. Ils fathers were cured by the fetichists and so must he; he did wrong to come to the white men for their medicine." "Well, poor deluded fellow! if he chooses to put himself under the tender care of Opomba and Company it is no business of ours." During the day we were busily engaged in prelparing for our journey to the interior ; several extra carriers bad to be engaged, and Melinda and Aziza were bard at work in superintending the arrangement of the loads for the porters. Just after sundown a fearful yell set up in a house adjoining 174

A PEARPFL CRY. 175 ours, which startled us by its weird sound as it rose upon the still night. "What on earth is that?" said Fortescue, starting up and rushing to the window. "If ever I heard a cry of mortal agony I did then." We listened with breathless attention for a repetition of the awful sound, but all was still. "What can it be ? How awful to be aroused from one's bed by such an unearthly shriek! Let us call Aziza." Just at this moment Sackie appeared, and we at once despatched bin for Aziza and Melinda to ascertain if they could throw any light upon the mystery. "Did you hear that yell just now, Melinda ? " said I. "Hush I do not speak loud for-" "Why, what is the matter? Why you are trembling all over, Aziza! Does any danger threaten? Tell me quickly what was the meaning of that unearthly yell." Aziza crept up to us, and with bated breath whispered in our ears the fearful words,"The greegree is out to-night." "The greegree ! and who or what is that ?" "It is the great fetiche; it is out to-night, and there will be plenty taken away before to-morrow," said Melinda. "Explain yourself, Melinda. What is this greegree which is out to-night?" "It is the great fetiche; iz walks about under the form of a demon, and if any one is caught it kills him, and if any person has offended the fetiche he is certain to die." "It is some horrible fetiche ceremony I expect," said I, "some superstition which has been worked up so as to give the jujumen an opportunity of putting away those who may offend them, and throwing the blame upon the fetiche, besides thereby adding to their power." "Have you ever seen the greegree, Melinda ?" "Only once; I ran away as did every one else, for if the greegree catches you you die."

SPORT IN ASAANTi. "And what was the greegree like ?" "I saw a dark something with long horns which rushed about the streets and into the houses; wherever it went some one died, for the fetiche struck them on the forehead and they bled to death." "How horrible! To think that the priests of fetichism have so far worked upon the fears of the people that they can murder with impunity! There can be no doubt that the greegree is the fetiche priest who dresses up for the occasion, and, armed with a knife or dagger, enters the dwelling of his intended victim and brains him. 'Tis enough to make one's flesh creep to think of such a state of affairs; a religion whose power rests upon cruelty must be indeed a fearful master." "Will the greegree come this way think you, Melinda?" "I know not. Who can tell where the greegree will go? Perhaps he will come into this house, who knows? " "I hope the yard-gate is fastened; if he is mortal, he will have some difficulty in climbing over it." " Oh, no! No doors or gates must be ciosed when the gree. gree is out. Hark! there is his horn." A. sonorous note, evidently proceeding from the horn of some animal, blown with considerable force, here broke upon the stillness which reigned around. It was pitched in a minor key, and rose and fell with a wail that, combined with its associations, was truly appalling. This weird music was heard approaching, and the terror of Melinda and Aziza visibly increased, while all the hammock-men and porters came crowding round us, as if thinking that we could afford them protection from the dreaded greegree. "Who omitted to close the gate P" said IFortescue. "No person would dare to shut any gate when the horn of the greegree is heard," said Melinda. "But we have nothing to do with the greegree or his horn. Come along, Danvers, let us go and shut out this wandering murderer or he will pay us a visit." Melinda and Aziza, who understood enough English to make 176

A GREEGREE. out our intention of closing the yard door, were aibsolutely ap. palled at our project; when at length they did sufficiently recover themselves to speak, they both protested that it would be certain death to both of us if we dared shut out the greegree. man. "Well, we will risk your certain death, but close the gate we will." Taking our rifles with us to guard against any unforeseen danger, we ran down the steps and crossed the courtyards, which were empty and silent as the grave. Not one of our attendants dared accompany us, although they strongly protested against our going, and indeed it was only the fear that we would get them into some palaver that prevented them from detaining us by force. As we neared the outer gate the horn of the greegree was again heard wailing in mournful yet horror-striking tones. "The greegree is evidently coming this way; suppose we have a look at the wonderful fetiche?" "We will, but let us close the gate, as, if he is accompanied by a bevy of attendants, they may be too much for us." We therefore shut to and barred the wooden gates of our house, and taking up our position near a hole in the wall, which commanded a view of the street, we awaited the coming of the greegrec For some minutes we neither heard nor saw anything, when a prolonged wail on the horn directed our attention to the right, where we beheld a sight that we shall neither of us forget to our dying day. A figure draped in long gras, with chalked circles round the eyes and streaks on the cheeks and forehead, approached us; on its head were two long horns of the native bullock, also whitened, while streaks of the same colour encircled the arms and legs. In one hand was tie horn, which, as the figure approached, was applied to the lips and blown, sending out a doleful, melancholy, heart-chilling note, which made our very blood run cold. 177

SPORT IN ASHANTI. As the greegree neared, we saw that. it was a ,nan whose roll. ing eyes and gleaming teeth were conspicuous, even at this di stance. Imagine cur feelings as we discovered two objects banging down upon his breast, being suspended by a cord round his neck. These were two human heads, the eyes staring-wildly as if the murdered persons had been surprised and killed ere they could realise their situation; the blood dripped-dripped slowly over the grassy tunic of the greegree, whose hands were deeply imbrued in the sanguinary fluid, which also stained a gleaming knife hanging over his left shoulder. A more horrible-looking monster neither of us had ever beheld, as the greegree- man came slowly stalking through the deserted starlit streets. His eyes rolled wildly from side to side, while the deep snorting of hia breath could be heard several yards away. He had evidently put himself into the peculiar ecstasy which often accompanies the practice of religious ceremonies. His mind was out of gear for the time being, and as he glared out into vacancy, it was evident that he was not responsible for his actions. "The greegree obviously has worked himself up into a pitch w, ich renders him capable of doing anything. I should not care to meet him alone and unarmed," said Fortescue in a whisper, for he was by this time close to our peeping-hole. "It reminds me of the running-amuck of India. A religious fanatic will have his feelings so worked up by the priests, that he loses all control over himself, and runs through the streets cutting and slashing at everybody and everything, until his mad career is put to an end. "No wonder the superstitious negroes have such a horror of the greegree. He looks a perfect demon." "He is. Good God! there is Abraba's head hanging behind him," exclaimed Fortescue, in tones which the greegree's excited state alone prevented him from hearing. "So there is, poor fellow ! He has certainly fallen a victim to 178

A PERPLEXING SITUA TIOX' his desire to try our medicine. Who knows but that it was his death shriek which startled us ? But-why, yes-the greegree is Opomba himself." The greegree was by this time opposite our peep-hole, and to our surprise we recognised the features of the goldsmith's medicine-man. A more demoniac countenance I never gazed upon. The mouth was drawn up by convulsive twitchings of the muscles of the cheeks, while the strained eyeballs seemed to be bursting from their sockets as they glared around. His widely expanded nostrils sniffed the air as if on the scent for blood, and his hand ofttimes clutched the gory knife, as with clenched and grinding teeth, he hissed out a smothered imprecation. He soon arrived at our gate, and pausing for an instant to gaze at the bloody head of poor Abraba, which seemed to work up his feelings to a still greater height of frenzy, he advanced to the gate, evidently expecting it to open before his slightest touch. To his surprise it resisted. Again and again he tried to push it open. He could not believe his senses. Could it be fastened? No! no Ashautee from the king to the meanest slave dare bar his gates when the greegree sounds his horn. Opomba was considerably puzzled. He pulled out his horn and blew a long blast, evidently thinking to inspire any person who might hear it with terror. "Ah, ha! my fine greegree, you are nicely put out by our manceuvre," said Fortescue. "I wonder what his holiness will do now ?" "I should like to put a bullet through his murderous head," said I, clutching my rifle. "The knowledge that our lives would pay the forfeit alone prevents me." "You may thank your stars that we heard the shriek, or we might not have taken any notice of the horn. The grecgree evidently intends to pay us a visit, and is somewhat put out by our closing the door." "Look at the villain, he is trying to scale the gate. No fear of his attempt succeeding, though, shouldJe get over, I woul 179

SPORT IN ASHANTI. put a bullet through him as sure as lie steps inside, let the consequences be what they may," said Fortescue. "It's no go, my fine fellow," said I, as the fetichist fell rather heavily to the ground, having lost his hold as he clambered up the side of the gate, his sanguinary burdens clashing hideously together. "Suppose we give the fetichist a bit of our magic? A cracker, for instance, would scare him in spite of his dealings with familiar spirits." "That's not a bad idea. If we could only frighten the fellow, it would be a better preventative against his trying any more of his tricks upon us than anything elso'* "Quite right. Here's a little powder; can you make a cracker out of this piece of newspaper? " "Oh, yes! I've often made fireworks when I was a boy. I never thought my skill would ever be employed to frighten an African fetichist though. How true it is that knowledge is power ." "One never knows when any information he may possess will be of inestimable service to him. For instance, I was once going home late one night through one of the streets out of Holborn, when a fellow stepped out of a dark alley, and seizing me by the coat collar, demanded my money and watch. "There was not a soul about, the police being as usual conspicuous by their absence when they are wanted, when I suddenly thouglht of some thieves' Latin. "'Tel og uoy loof, tnod uoy wonk a lap '" "That's jargon enough for any one's Latin, I should think," said Fortescue. "It had the desired effect, however; for releasing me at once the would-be highwayman begged my pardon, and wishing me a good-night, stepped it off in the darkness. Have you got the case ready for the cracker " "Quite ready. It's a good long one, and if all goes on as it ought to, it will make our friend outside squirm again." Our firework was a famous one of thirty-cracker power, and ISO

A4N ANTI-GR.PECREE CRACKER. having tied it up, the difficulty was to light and affix it to the greegree. "The top of the cartridges for our revolvers makes capital touch paper, and we can easily light it with a match, but how the dickens we are to attach it to our friend is more than I know." "I've got a brilliant idea. Here is a piece of string. If we get a fish-hook out of our baskets, which lie in that shed over yonder, by the aid of our net-sticks, and favoured by the darkness and good lck, we can reach over the wall and hook it into his grass cloak." "That's the idea. I only hope his rage will not get over, and he will have sense enough to walk away before we are ready for him." "No fear of that just yet. His reputation, as it were, is at stake, and he will use every means of forcing an entrance before he will give in." We soon had fixed the fish-hook and string to our cracker, while Opomba growled and blew his death-horn outside, evidently considerably taken aback at finding our door closed against him. Such an event was without precedent in all the annals of fetichism. We fixed a long piece of our touch-paper to the cracker, and then lighting it, climbed up to the top of the wall, and lying down at full length, waited our opportunity. Nor were we doomed to exercise much patience. The greegree in his frantic endeavours to open the gate-, had detached one of the heads from his neck, and at the moment we peeped over the wall, was busily engaged in refixing the ghastly object to the cord. With a dexterous handling of our net-stick, we managed to hook the string with its smouldering cracker to the grass tunic of the greegree, and elated with our success we awaited the result. The surprise which had overtaken Opomba at finding our gate fastened, had gained the mastery over his fanaticism, which had

SPORT IN ASHANTI. given place to a deadly rage, and he fumed and fretted as he tied the grasg rope to the woolly locks of his victims, muttering several very powerful Ashantee oafls as he did so. All being completed to his satisfaction, he started up, and walked a few paces off to survey the enceinte. To our great glee we saw a tiny red spark appearing and disappearing behind him, and knew that our cracker was safe so far. Stamping with rage he again approached the gate, and shaking it with considerable violence, almost wrenched the flimsy bolts from their sockets. All, however, held firm, and he was about to renew the attack, when Fortescue uttered a low groan. The effect was electric. Down dropped the horn from the blood-stained hands of the greegree, who was evidently startled, if not absolutely frightened by the inexplicable sound. Another low moan escaped from Fortescue, whilst I could scarcely refrain from laughing at the now apparent terror of the greegree. At this moment the cracker went off, whizzing close by the left ear of the terrified priest. Starting up and gazing round, he could not make out what it was that startled him, when bang went the second cracker. Round and round he rushed like a cat in a fit, while the cracker again and again went off, unfil fairly scared out of his wits, he took to his heels and ran off down the street, the three human heads knocking together, and finally, becoming detached one by one, they lay strewn along the road, together with the horn and bloodstained knife. "Ha, ha, ha!" laughed we as we descended from the top of the wall. "I guess we have given Opomba a lesson he will not readily forget." "Ii1 certainly have no fear that he will molest us again. How he did run when the crackers wehit off!" "And to think that a villain like that should enthral the minds cf thousands of sensible people. What a pity that poor Abraba had not seen our adventure to- night! It would have made a proselyte of him on the spot." 6f Ah! poor fellow, that murdering villain Opomba has evidently 182

Stamping with rage he again approached the gate. P. T82.

THE FETICHIST SCARED OFrK put him out of the way to prevent him coming to us again. I wonder who the other two victims were." " Heaven only knows! I only hope they will haunt him as long as he continues his evil practices. I think, however, that it will be a long time before Opomba plays greegree again." Vhen we entered our sleeping apartments we found Melinda, Aziza, and all our people huddled together, expecting to see the awful apparition of the greegree appear among them every instant. They had no faith in our bolting the gates, for they sincerely believed that the greegree could come through all the gates in the town if he chose. "N ow you frightened nincompoops," said Fortescue, "just rouse up and give us our pipes. The greegree has gone for good. You'll not see anything more of him for some time to come." "Did you see the greegree?" asked Aziza, with chattering accents. "See him! Of course I saw him. Do you think I went out to hide from him. I saw him and gave him a taste of my mind." "Ah ! white men are different from black men. If any of us bad gone out the fetiche would have taken us, and we should have lost oiir beads." "If you choose to leave your gates unfastened for the express purpose of letting in a murdering villain, you almost deserve to lose your heads. Remember, the next time greegree comes you will have to fasten the gates yourselves, or I'll drive the whole lot of you into the streets to shift for yourselves." "White men are not under the same fetiche as black men," said Aziza, shaing his head dismally. "If any black man were to go to the white man's country, he could do things which the white man's fetiche could not hinder." "You shall try if you like. I fancy if all your fetiche is no more powerful than the specimen we have seen to-night, it is not of much value to protect anybody." In the miotning we had another patient. One of the porters was laid up, and upon Sackie telling us we repaired to the sick 183

SPORT IN A SHANTI man's quarters. A dose of castor oil, followed by a seidlitz powder, soon put him on his legs again. While at breakfast we were told, what indeed was no news to us, that last night Abraba was taken by the fetiche, and that his head, together with those of two other persons who had offended the fetiche, were found in the road leading past our house. " How came the heads there, Aziza ?" said Fortescue, anxious to know what was the popular opinion respecting them. "Who knows? Perhaps the fetiche cut them off with a sword, and the blow knocked them from the houses into the road. Or perhaps the fetiche was carrying them away when lie found they were of no use to him, and would be better if left as a warning to others. No man can know what the fetiche does." "Do you think the fetiche left them intentionally, Melihda ?" "A ziza is better informed in Ashantee fetiche than I am. He says they were left as a warning. Why should I disagree with him ?" "Then you evidently don't think they were left on purpose." "I did not say so," replied Melinda, shaking his head. "Aziza knows all about his native fetiche. In the far off country where I was born we had no greegree." "Happy for the country, then. Halloa! here is another patient." This last expression was caused by the entrance of one of our porters, who rolled from side to side, rubbing his breast and stomach, and groaning as if in mortal agony. "I think this is a serious case," said I, giving Fortescue a wink. "So it seems. Well, what is the matter with you ?" "Oh! I am very bad. Ache too much. Pain too much. Want medicine." "Where is the pain? Put your band where you have the pain." 184

ANO THER PA TIENT "Pain all over; pain in head; pain in arm; pain in chest; pain everywhere." "Then I'm afraid we cannot do much for you. Why don't you go to your fetiche." "This no be bad for fetiche medicine; it be good for you to give medicine to sick man." "What sort of medicine do you require ? Will you be sure to take what I give you ?" "Oh! yes; medicine very good." Fortescue then mixed an aperient draught for the afflicted person, who took it and looked very curious as the nauseous liquid was swallowed. He evidently was disappointed at something. In about an hour he returned, looking very glum. "What, bad yet? I thought the medicine I gave you was very good." "Oh! yes; but not too good. Want medicine so, sh-ish-h-h," and here he stirred up an imaginary glass of water with his finger and fist, and then tossed it off, rubbing his stomach afterwards to indicate the relief he experienced therefrom. U Oh! you want one of the medicines that goes sh-ish, do you ?" "Yes, massa, that be good medicine for true." "All that medicine is gone for to-day. Will you have a glass of rum instead?" Although the patient was disappointed at not receiving the seidlitz powder for which he had been shamming, yet the prospect of a glass of rum was by no means to be despised. "Oh! yes, massa, rum be good medicine for black man." "So you shall find, my friend," said Fortescue in an undertone, as he slipped a little tartar emetic into the glass. "Here is the rum. Drink it up, and let me know how you are to-morrow." The delighted negro swilled off the fiery liquid with considerable relish, and then thanking us, and telling us he already felt much better, he took his departure, chuckling to himself at the 185

SPORT IN ASHANTI. success of his plot. Little did he think that he himself had been taken in, and not ourselves. In the afternoon Sackie came to us with a very doleful face, saying that the man who came for the medicine this morning was very sick, and expected to dio "Go and tell him that he should not come begging rum under the pretence of being ill. He asked for medicine, and he has obtained it." "Oh! he is very bad," said Sackie. "He is very sick, indeed." "Serve him right. He should not come here shamming. If I had not made an example of him, we should have been pestered with sick people every hour of the day." The lad went out to deliver the message, and shortly afterwards Fortescue paid the sick man a visit, the result of which was that he confessed that he had shammed illness in the hope of obtaining one of our 4ffervescent powders. Our rest during the following night was undisturbed by any greegree or other fetiche, and in the morning we took a stroll through the town. We were much struck by the high-pitched roofs of the houses, which gave an appearance to some of them, when viewed end on, much resembling a potter's kiln. Each house bad its little courtyard, with various figures in relief worked on the walls. The houses were much more comfortable than those on the Coast towns, and were much more cleanly kept. Nevertheless, there was considerable crowding in many parts, while the open spaces in others were on a gigantic scale. "What a fearful scourge smallpox must be in such a country as this," said Fortescue, as we turned from a doorway which admitted entrance to a courtyard wherein we counted thirty individuals crowded into a space of four times as rnany square yards. "It is fearful when it does come. - Whole villages are often depopulated, the corpses of the defunct lying exposed in the place where they dropped." 186

AN ARAB CARA FAN. "How horrible! No wonder Sampatan, the smallpox god, is so reverentially worshipped." ' It is said that when the Ashantees go to war they lose nearly five times as many men through disease, chiefly smallpox, as they do from the weapons of their enemies." "Well, when we consider that each man has to carry his rations, and that all cleanliness is at an end, and that the soldiers are exposed to all the inclemencies of the weather, and suffer great privations, we cannot wonder that disease should break out among them." "You see, each house has its Lares and Penates set up under a little shed." "Oh! yes; and an ugly set of deities they are. Talk about the hideous faces one sees in old church gurgoyles, why they are perfect beauties in comparison with the gods worshipped in this delightful country." "Do you see those strings of cowries, feathers and such rubbish, hanging over the doorways ?" "They are talismans for the prevention of all the evils the flesh is heir to, I suppose." "Yes; and a precious lot of money the deluded owners have paid for them." "I've no donbt. I think it would pay any one to set up as a manufacturer of talismans and fetiche paraphernalia in general." "You will generally find that the priests have the most paying game in their hands, my friend." "Here comes a procession of some caboceer or other, I suppose. Let us get upon these steps, and then we shall get a better view." As the cortlqe approached nearer, we discovered, to the surprise of Fortescue, that it was a Moslem caravan, or rather the trader and his suite. Their snowy turbans and long gowns formed a contrast with the hatless, sable polls of the natives, while their carriage was that of persons who evidently considered themselves superior to those who surrounded them "Where are these Arabs from, Melinda ?" asked Fortescue. 187

1 S.PORT IN ASHA NTI. "I do not know as yet. Perhaps from the borders of tho Desert, or even the northern shores of Africa, or, maybe. from the eastern countries." "What do they come for? Do they bring merchandise for sale?" "They bring knives, cloth, fine feathers, and slaves, and they buy up ivory, gold dust, gums, and beeswax. Melinda knows by bitter experience the things they deal in." "Do you think you. will ever return to your country, Melinda ?" "I know not," he replied sadly. "Melinda has no desire to see the country of the Rabbarori unless he brings Awoona with him. When be has found her he will talk of returning. Melinda is always sad when he sees the Arab caravans. They remind him of the saddest days of his life." "Then you still hope to recover Awoona, do you, Melinda?" "When a white man sets his heart upon doing anything, does he not always succeed? Why should it be different when the black man makes up his mind to perform a deed? Melinda has waited long for Awoona, his heart is well-nigh broken; he is lonely in his dwelling; he sighs for his Rabbarori bride. But still, as one star shines out on the darkest night to guide the wanderer over the desert, he has yet a hope that he will find her." "I sincerely hope you will, my faithful fellow. Have you any idea as to her whereabouts ?" " She was last seen among the Tokpomeys, far away to the north. There has been a war there since, however, and many slaves have been brought away. Perhaps Awoona may be near us at this moment. Who knows P Time will show. Melinda will find her ere he diesF As the Moslem troupe passed us the leader made us a polite salaam, evidently taken by surprise at the unexpected sight of Europeans at Coomassie. We then continued our journey, and soon after entered a market-place. Here a busy scene was being enacted. Most of IL88

A COOMASSIE MARKET. the vendors were women, and, as Fortescue truly observed, they were almost as ugly a set as their deities. Their dress was usually a cotton square, like a shawl, wrapped round their bodies, and one end tucked in under the left armpit. Most of them carried infants resting on their hips, or slung in a kind of bag behind, with their legs projecting most uncomfortably on either side of the mother. The various wares, such as fruit, yams, fowls, ducks, cloth, cotton, firewood, water, crockery, hardware, fetiche, and medicine, were displayed on low earthen benches, with a slight roof over to protect from the rain and sun. The noise was terrific. Babel itself would have sunk to shame before it. Here was a woman haggling with a vendor, of yams over the price. Neither would give in, and the wordy war waxed hotter and hotter. There a stalwart slave was purchasing a tobacco pipe, both buyer and seller vociferating at the top of their voices, as though it were a maxim that no trade could be done except by shouting. Again we see a noisy crowd round the vendor of palm-wine, which was being doled out in small calabashes. Close by is one of the king's spies, who is ready to pounce upon any luckless individual Nho may be caught intoxicated, for drunkenness in public is a heinous crime in Ashanti and Dahomey, though it may be indulged in to repletion at home. " Halloa! there's a row," exclaimed Fortescue, as an urchin made a grab at a of fowls, and was caught by the owncr, who soundly belaboured the young thief. While his attention was thus taken from his stall, three or four others pounced upon it, and made off with their booty, although they were pursued by half-a- score of persons. "They are the king's Kaklaka," said Melinda. " They are at liberty to steal anything they can, and take it to the palace, where they are safe. If, however, they are caught, they are liable to a severe punishment at the hands of their captor." "A nice institution, truly," said Fortescue. "State thieves, to give them their proper title, They had better not try their light.

SPORT IN ASHANTI. fingered skill upon any of my property, or they may come to grief." We had now arrived at the portion of the market where articles of native manufacture were sold. Pipes shaped into the forms of men, animals or birds, leather bags, cushions, baversacks, or pillows, fantastically ornamented with different coloured leather and beads, bows, rings, principally iron, knives, javelins, caps of grass, with plumes of a kind of reed, and wide-brimmed sun hats. Stools, curiously carved out of solid pieces of cottontree; bags, very much resembling a Highlander's sporran, for holding fetiche talismans, musical instruments, such as the sancho, a kind of guitar, gong-gongs or drums were sold in another portion. The area of the market was about ninety acres, and was so densely crowded with people that it was only by sheer force that Melinda could obtain a passage for us. Leaving the busy market-place, we repaired to the square where we were first received by the king. A goodly number of caboceers were assembled, their golden ornaments glittering in the sun, while their gaudy umbrellas formed a truly kaleidoscopic canopy round the royal seat. Scarcely had we taken our places on the spot appointed for us than Quakoo made his appearance and informed us that he had just been sent to our residence to summon us to the trial of a caboceer who had been detected in defrauding the revenue. Looking round the square we discovered the unhappy culprit with his hands firmly bound behind his back, kneeling before the empty stool of the king. In a few moments a flourish of horns announced the advent of the king, who arrived with all the pomp and splendour incidental to royalty. He bowed to us, and after exchanging a few complimentary remarks with his powerful courtiers, the trial began. The Mingoten, standing behind the culprit, announced that the king had given Bukauni the rank of a caboceer, and had appointed him to collect the revenues of Takoradey. Instead of delivering up all he collected to the king, he had appropriated T9o

A TRIAL AND SENTENCE. some to himself. There was no defence, since he was taken in the act. A lengthy discussion thereupon arose between the nobles who rank next the king, whose number is officially restricted to six. They were of one mind that the accused was guilty, but were some time before they could agree as to what punishment should be awarded him. At last the matter was settled, and their verdict communicated to the king. If his Majesty had not approved of it, their decision would have been null and void, but upon the present occasion it met with the full concurrence of the king, who after upbraiding the culprit for his ir - ratitude in defrauding his king, his benefactor, sentenced him to be decapitated, and to be buried without funer al honour,,q3 while the who!e of his household were to be sold as slaves. Scarcely was the sentence pronounced than it was carried out. Four strong soldiers seized the unhappy victim, who, despite his shrieks and struggles, was bound and gagged, and in less than five minutes from the delivery of the sentence, his head was lopped off and given to one of the Ocras, while the blood which was caught in a calabash was besmeared on the stools and swords of the royal executioners. Horrified and sickened at such a dreadful sight we gladly availed ourselves of' permission to retire, and during the ensuing night our dreams were of blood besmeared stools, shrieking victims, and golden ornamented caboceers. 191

CHAPTER X. A VISIT FROM DRIVER ANTS-A FORMIDABLE INVASION-FAREWELL TO KING KOFFEE-A DEFAULTER PUNISHED-HORRIBLE DECAPITATION SCENEPALM OIL MANUFACTURE-THE BANTAMA TOMBS-OUR LAST NIGHT IN COOMASSIE. ABOUT midnight I was aroused from a deep 'slumber by an inde. scribable feeling, as if something were about to happen. I could assign no valid reason for my awakening, and if any one had aked me why I was restless and uneasy, I could have given him no satisfactory answer; nevertheless there was a sense of the necessity of remaining awake, which prevented me from again closing my eyes., I sat up and rubbed my eyes, whistled, and stamped about with my feet, in order to make sure that my faculties were on the alert. My lamp had just gone out, and the suffocating smell of the smouldering palm-oil pervaded the apartment; all was dark as Erebus, and, but for a less sable something on my right, I could not have distinguished the window from the wall, for not a star shone out of the gloom. Suddenly my ears caught a sound; I listened. What was it? Was it the trickle, trickle of running water? No; for although the sky was clouded, yet there had been no rain. Was it a

DRIVER ANTS. venomous reptile slowly crawling along the floor on the look-out for prey F No, it could hardly be that, for the sound resembled a ceaseless patter rather than a drag. At last I have it,-it is the noise of innumerable feet. What is it, mice, rats, cockroaches, or what 'r In the midst of my deliberation as to the cause of the noise, a stifled imprecation from Fortescue, who slept in the adjoining room, assailed my ears. Again and again it was repeated, accompanied by sundry kicks and scratehings, which made the bamboo bedstead upon which he lay creak again. Presently he appeared to get out of bed, and his footsteps could be heard on the hard clay floor. What on earth can he be about stamping and kicking, as though he were demented? Surely be cannot have caught the fever through exposure, and be delirious? The stamping and knocking about continuing, I could contain myself no longer, and called out, "Hi! Fortescue, what's up now ?" "Thank Heaven, there is somebody awake! I believe I am covered with ants and-" "Ants! By Jove! then we are in for it. We shall have to cut and run I expect. Have you got a light in there? " "Not a spark. Confound that boy Sackie! be never- Hi! Sackie, come here you sable- Whew! I am covered with the varmints." Sackie made his appearance slowly opening his eyes, and betraying every sign that he did not relish being roused out of a sound slumbei. "Here, you black-looking imp, get me a lamp as quick as lightning. Why the deuce didn't you leave the matches in my bedroom ? Confound the things! I feel as if I were being pricked all over with red-hot needles; I can't stand it much longer. Is that imp coming with a light? ?" Just then Sackie appeared bringing a palmoil lamp. "Well, I'll be - ! why the place is covered with ants. TV6 wonder a fellow was roused out." "We are in for a visit from the driver ants," said I; "I should 0 193

O.SPORT IAT ASHANTI. advise you to strip off your things and run in here, where von can get a change of mine; if you don't you will be bitten to death or driven mad." "Well, here goes. Look out. I've to run the gauntlet through a scouting party of drivers which is spread out all over the floor of my room." With a few bouuds my naked companion entered my room, but, quick as was his passage, a few ants had clung to him and were busily engaged in digging their powerful mandibles into his legs. "Help a fellow to get rid of these pests, will you?" said he laughing. "By Jove! who would imagine such little brutes could bite so hard ? I assisted Fortescue to get rid of his tormentors, which clung so hard to his flesh that they would suffer their heads to be severed from their bodies rather than let go their hold. "We had better make tracks while there is a chance," said I; "the ants are trooping along in a column an inch deep over the floor, and if they spread out we shall have to rum the gauntlet a second time, and, although it may sound ridiculous, I would rather be excused from facing them. What would our friends in England say if they were driven out of their beds by an inroad of ants ?" "I dare say some of them would laugh at us if we told them we ran away from ants; but let them come and try it, they would get a startler I know." "I don't know how you feel, but I'm awfully sore all over, although I had but a few ants on me when I awoke." " Oh! luckily I awoke ere they reached me, but if I had reinained asleep, look what would have been my fate." As I said this I turned back the light cotton sheet which covered my bed, and revealed a dense column of black driver ants marching across the very place where I had been lying asleep only a few moments before. "Lucky for you you did awake," said Fortescue, ruefully scratching himself. 194

A 'ORMIDABLE INVASION 9. "Well, let us clear out while there is a chance." Accordingly Fortescue and I left the field of battle to the ants, and went downstairs. "Why, look here," said Fortescue who was ahead, "the brutes are trooping into the house in millions." As he spoke, he pointed to a long black line extending across the courtyard, up the staircase, and so into the house; detached parties were out scouting on each side of the main army, and there was not a single hut on the premises but had been cleared of all its hum.n Inhabitants by the ants. All the labourers were standing on little islands surrounded by streams of ants, rubbing themselves in a very doleful way, so that we could not restrain ourselves, but burst out into fits of laughter; the lights carried by the people had just sufficient illuminating power to render their black faces and gleaming white teeth visible to us, as they vainly endeavoured to get out of the way of the invading armies. In vain hot water was poured in streams along their route, boiling the advancing soldiers by thousands; in vain did Fortescue and I lay trains of gunpowder along their paths and, setting it alight, blow up myriads. Still on they came. What was the death of ten thousand to a host of millions? The inpouring mass resembled the flow of a black liquid rather than the entrance of insects, so compactly were the ants marching along. Of all the sights I have as yct seen this beats all," said Fortescue. "It is most wonderful! No person who had not actually observed the inroad of the armies of the driver ants would credit their immense number. Why there must be millions of them." "There must be millions on millions of them," said I; "they have now been pouring in in a constant stream for more than three hours, and they are still coming on as fast as ever." Richards, whose fears that the Ashantees were always bent on murdering him rendered him anything but a helpmate, stood on an island near us, growling and complaining that he would never again leave England to come into a country where people were driven out of their beds and houses by a pack of beastly ants. 195

SPORT IN ASHANTI, Suddenly a wild cry assailed our cars. "Yegeeh, yegeeh," issued from one of the huts, and as we turned our eyes ill its direction, we saw by the flickering lamplight one of our carricrs rush out of the hut., rubbing and scratching himself like a Scotchnan; he was literally covered with ants, and in his frantic struggles to free himself from his tormentors, shook off scores upon the bystandc-s, who were anything but thankful for his donations. The poor wretch was punctured by hundreds of bites, and the blood was trickling down him in little streams; at the same time a cackling of fowls and ducks and a bleating of goats announced that the invading army had found out our live stock. "Let the fowls and goats loose, Aziza," said T. "Yes, massa," answered the hunter, as with lengthy strides he jumpeil over the legions of ants on his way to the pe. " Well, this is truly ludicrous, but what are we to do? It will soon be daylight, and it will be impossible to re-enter our house unless the ants take their departure." "We had better endeavour to procure a few clothes and take , walk round our neighbourhocd; perhaps by the time we get back again our enemies will have evacuated our premises." "When the sun gets up," said Melinda calling to us across a broad phalanx of ants, "the drivers will go away ; if the sun catchcs them it will kill them." "I sincerely wish the sun would catch a few at the present moment, I don't relish the idea of being turned out in the cold at the will of a squadron of ants, however romandi it may be." "Neither do I; but I expect this will not be our last visitation," said I. Meanwhile lichards, Sackie, and others had been threading their way through the bands of ants in the enideavour to procure a pair of trousers and a jacket for each of us, for during all this time we had been standing in our slceping panjamas with a Lnative cloth thrown toga fashion over our shoulders. Presently they returned, rubbing themselves at every point. "Look out, Fortescue," said I, "that you don't get into a z96

PROFITcIBLE SC21 VENGES. horneL's nest; you had better shake your clothes thoroughly before you put them on." "No bad idea. Confound it! there is one of the varmints in my ear," continued he as he wriggled his little finger in his oral organ, in the hope of dislodging it. We soon dressed, and, having ejected the ants, which, in spite of our shaking, still clung to our garments, we ran the gauntlet through the ants to our gate, followed by Richards, Melinda, and others; then stopping to pick off the assailants gathered in our passage, we took a walk round the quarter of the town in our neighbourhood, and on our return were overjoyed to hear that our puny enemies, having driven us out of house and home, had at length retired. "There's one satisfaction to be gathered from the visit of the ants," said T. "And what may that be? I'll be hanged if I can see any benefit to be derived from their appearance." "Well, just look there," said I, pointing to a group of hammock-men and porters, who wore gathered under one of the windows of our dining-room gazing at something on the ground mhich had evidently been thrown out of the upstairs window. "What have you got there, Meliuda ?" said Fortescue "It is a snake which has been killed by the ants; the hammock-men found it on the floor of your bedroom. The drivers always hunt out all snakes, rats, beetles, and centipedes, which, if overtaken, are killed." "One would hardly suppose that so agile a creature as a snake could be killed by ants," said Fortescue ; "I don't think I should have slept comfortably if I had known the reptile was so near me." "The bites of millions of ants are enough to kill anything, I should think; you see there is never any misfortune without an accompanying benefit." "Well, a truce to your moralising; let us get in to breakfast, for we must pay our adieux to the king and be on our way long ere nightfall. 197

SPORT IN ASHANTI. We had previously sent word to Quakoo that we would bid the king good-bye in the morning, and just as we finished our breakfast the Ocra arrived, accompanied by all his doctors- sword. carriers, and stool-bearers. "I should think that the cares of state hang very heavily upon all government officers in Ashanti," said I. "Well, if a person cannot go out of doors without this tail of foolery behind him, I would rather be one of the ilebeian than the patrician class." With a profound obeisance the Ocra gave us the customary morning salutation, and then coolly sat down at our table, and by the most unmistakable signs gave us to understand that he wanted a morning dram. " Give the old sinner a drop of spirits of wine, perhaps that would be strong enough to suit even him." "We'll try him at all events. Here, Sackie, bring me that large glass bottle with a glass stopper which stands in my bedroom." The spirits of wine being produced, we asked Quakoo if he would have a drink of it, telling him that it was the most powerfiLl drink made. "Oh! if it is too strong and make a man's head go round so, it be fine too much," said the old tippler indicating his expected feelings by twirling his fingers round his head. "Only try it, it will make your head spin in no time." We poured out a little of the spirits and gave it to him. His eyes watered as he swallowed the potent draught, and his breath was stopped for several seconds after he had gulped it down with a sound like that of water running down a sink. "Ah-h! that is the drink for Quakoo! Plenty strong, plenty fine, and make a man giddy too soon. Why don't the white traders bring such drink to Assinee and Cape Coast'?" "It is too dear; besides it would quickly kill any one who drank too much of it." "What for do I care if it kill me! It be too fine," and here .193

4 ASHANTEE TIPPLER. he signified that in his ideas a short and drunken life was to be preferred to any other. "Can we offer you any more, Quakoo P" said Fortescue hand. ing the bottle. "No. Quakoo has to go to the king," replied he, evidently very much put out that the cares of state necessitated his attend. ance at court, and debarred him the pleasure of getting hope. lessly drunk in his own home. "Have you come to conduct us to the king? We are anxious to bid him good-bye, for we wish to set out when the sun begins to cool." "I have come to fetch you to the king, who will look upon you again, and then to show you the Bantama palace, where all the fathers of the king lie buried, with all their gold and all the skulls of their enemies." "I should think they sleep in peace surrounded by their wealth and such grim companions," said Fortescue. -" It is rather a bore, however, that we have to delay our start. Are our hammocks ready, Aziza?" "All ready, massa." "Then bring them round and we will start." :Mounting our hammocks, we set off for our final visit to the king, preceded by the Ocra, whose bands struck up a very discordant parody upon the tune of ' Ninety-Five.' "This music-as I suppose it must be called-is almost as grating to one's nerves as a residence next door to a ladies' school, with its perpetual strumming on a piano, must be. Don't you think so, Danvers ? "Rather as delightful to one's feelings as when we have presented an accordion apiece to a family of half-a-dozen promising youngsters. I should think the present of a barrel-organ to his Majesty would immortalise us pt the veny least." "I should think it would; half-a-dozen poor wretches would have to be sent to Hades in honour of the event." As we passed through the market the state thieves were having a fine time of it for there had been a capsize of one r99

SPORT IN ASHANTI. of the stalls, and the young imps were reaping a rich harvest from the spoil.' "Doesn't it remind you of the tricks of some of the London Samins, who upset some old woman's apple-stall and then, whilst the poor old dame is looking after her property in one direction, the young Arabs are cutting off with their ill-gotten gains in another?" "Well, I expect young niggers are as fond of mischief as young whites; at any rate, I never saw much difference my. self." On arrival at the palace gates, we were ushered into the presence by Mingoten, who preceded us with his golden stick, the emblem of his authority. We found the king reclining on a mat-covered sofa beneath the shade of a large tent umbrella, big enough to shelter forty men at least; round him his interpreters, Ocras, and headsmen were seated, the latter bearing their fearful paraphernalia with them even into the presence of royalty itself. The death drums, with the wreaths of human skulls and thighbones, plentifully besmeared with blood, were resting on forked crutches, ready to beat the death knell of their victims; the knives with which the fearful sentence was carried out were thickly crusted in human blood, while their sheaths of iguana, or lizard skin, with gold ornaments were literally clotted up with gore. "No wonder the king has so much scent squirted over him," said Fortescue, as an attendant sprinkled some lavender-water over the royal person, "the sickening smell of blood is almost enough to knock one down." "I propose we set up a smoke as soon as possible, for it is almost too much for me." The monarch rose as we approached the sofa, and as we were duly presented by the Mingoten, he made a very charity-school bow with a grass-plumed hat which lay on a stool by his side. Fingers were then snapped, and we were told to take our seats on a couple of stools set ready for us; Richards being also ac. commodated with one in the rear by virtue of his white face, 200

VISIT TO THE KING. which, as usual, was suffused with a deathly pallor in sheer terror'at the sanguinary king. I forgot to mention that after- our grand reception in the square we sent a present to his Majesty, consisting of two pieces of fine prints, a double-barrelled gun with ammunition, a hairbrush with a looking-glass in the back, a hghly-coloured picture. book, and a case of gin. The usual calabasbes of water and bottles of rum were brought out and duly honoured, when, to our surprise, Koffee Kalcalli asked why Richards hadn't had his share of refreshmen4 "He is my servant," said Fortescue, "and it is not in accordance with lEnglish mann.-rs for the servant to drink with his master." Well, you are not in Eigland now, let him drink with me." This remark had evidently been called for by the timid fearstricken appearance of Richards, and when he heard the request he at once started up in the greatest terror. " Now don't make a fool of yourself, Richards, before all these people; can't you see they are laughing at you ?" "Oh, sir! " exclaimed he in fearful accents. & I dare not drink the stuff,-it is poisoned, I'm sure it is. I've read of such things before now." "No matter what you have read before or after, you have got to drink the king's health." "Let the white man stand out and drink," s:,id KoThc Kal. calli grinning. "Oh, master! please, master, ask the king to let me off. I've-" "What on earth are you afraid of, you silly fool! Do yoa think the king would be benefited by poisoning such a nincom. poop as you? Stand up and drink, or I'll tell his Majesty you are afraid of being poisoned, and I can assure you that will offend him more than anything you could do." The lily-livered fellow thereupon staggered forward and took the glass from the hands of the Ocra, and trembling in every limb as he raised it to bis lips, spiLlijig half of 201

SPORT IN ASHAN7., the contents on the floor, he made a very poor attempt at a draught. "You ought to be ashamed of yourself, you chicken-hearted baby! A pretty representative of the English people you are! I'll wager anything that if you are not frightened to death before you return to England, you will spin fine yarns to your friends of your exploits among savages; if you do, I'll take precious care they hear all about the way you conducted yourself today.'' "I didn't come out here to get poisoned," drawled the frightened menial. "Poisoned!" said Fortescue, with some warmth. "Why the very touch of such a sheepish fellow as you is almost enough to poison one itself." The courtiers who had witnessed this colloquy were laughing at the fears of our servant, and working upon them to their utmost. The executioners drew their swords and menaced him, iihile the officers grinned ferociously and brandished their daggers. "If we bring this fellow with us any more, we shall have a scene," said I. "Well, if we leave him at home he is always getting into some scrape or other. I wish I had known what he was made of before I engaged him. Meanwhile a number of small bags had been handed to the king, who selected two of them and handed them to Fortescue and I; telling us, that as we were going to hunt in the forest, it was good that we should have a strong medicine with us to protect us from the wild beasts. We thanked him for his kindness, and promised to wear the talismans. Melinda and Aziza then received two others not quite so artistically decorated as ours, which thley hung round their necks; and then prostrating themselves before the king, heaped about a bushel of sand over their heads. "I should like to be aa Ashantee courtier ia wet weather," 202

A DEFA UL TER P UNISHE D. said Fortescue. "It must be very nice to throw sticky mud over oneself, especiaily when it gets well down between the clothes and the back." Two slaves were then brought out and presented to us amidst the loud acclamations of the courtiers. Then followed a ceremony which we would rather have seen omitted altogether. Four wretched beings were brought in with knives stuck through their cheeks and their arms pinioned behind them. The chief executioner, conspicuous by his whitened face, his necklace of human teeth, and the fringe of human jaw-bones which rattled from the lower edge of his tunic, then approached the miserable pair. "Let the gates of the court be opened that the Ashantee people may come in and see what great things Koffee Kalcalli can perform," said he. Two ushers ran to the gates where a guard was stationed, ,while two heralds sounded a blast on their silver trumpets. Directly the doors were opened a noisy, tumultuous crowd rushed in and took up their stations at a respectful distance from the circle of the upper ten which surrounded the king. "Ho! there, ye Ashantees, lower your heads and throw clouds cf dust over yourselves, while Mpongwe, the head executioner of the great King of Ashanti, speaks the commands of his master." A perfect deluge of sand followed this peroration; in which, all we could discover, was a strange confusion of moving hands and prostrate and wriggling bodies. "What a degradation for any human being to submit to. None but the basest minds could ever be brought so low as to grovel in the dust before any monarch. I wonder whether there are any Quaker Ash antees ? " said Fortescue. "I should think not. I question whether his Majesty would allow any subject to forego any act of homage for all the religious notions in the world." When the clou4s of sand had somewhat subsided the chief 203

SPORT ZN ASHANTI. executioner lifted up a human head, from which the blood still dripped; and, mounting a little heap of earth, shouted out,"Behold! tremble! Did not Koffee Kalcalli send Adai to Bankara to collect the customs dues ? Did he not thereby confer the greatest honour upon him? What was the result? Koffee Kalcalli commanded him to bring sixteen periguins of gold as tribute. What is so awful as the commands of a great king F Shall they not be obeyed? "Listen then to what Adai did when he came to the Bankara people. Instead of bringing back the sixteen periguins of gold he only brought back four." "Why do you not collect my customs dues, as I ordered?" asked the king. "The Bankara people are poor and could not pay," said Adai. "How can they be poor now, when four moons ago they sent in sixteen periguins. Let Somorne be sent to ask the reason wlhy they are poor, and let Adai be imprisoned until his return." "What was the report brought by Somorne ? The Bankara people had paid the sixteen periguins of gold to Adai, who had kept back the remainder for himself." "'Let his head be cut off,' said the King; and Mpongwe, his faithful servant, cut it off with one blow. 31pongwe has spoken.' The ghastly head of the offending Adai was then thrown among the crowd, who heaped every indignity upon it,-spitting at it, tearing off the hair, and gouging out the eyes, while others hacked at it with their knives, as it was frantically scrambled for by the excited multitude. The fierce passions of the Ashantees shone out conspicuously, as with glassy eyes they rushed after the prize; gloating over the indignity to which their former comrade was treated, and shouting with delight at a chance of giving their innate cruelty a vent. "Would that I were artist enough to depict the demoniac expressions and hellish countenances of that crowd of human fiends," said Fortescue. "The thirst for blood seems born and bred in the Ashantees. Just look at that urchin, not six years 204

A RE VOL TIAG S.E CTA CLE.R old, gloating over the gory head with evident looks of pleasure. Human life can be but of little value to a people whose earliest associations are those of murder and cruelty in its darkest forms." "Aye, and when we consider that though a highly intellectual people, they are steeped in the most degrading superstitions, and ground down by a crafty priesthood, we cannot but expect that scenes which cause us to shudder with inward horror are looked upon as the merest every-day occurrences." "So they must be; and many people at home when speaking of such a people, talk of thein as if they looked at things with the same eyes as we do. To a man brought up from his earliest childhood with the knowledge that at any moment he may be arraigned before the king and decapitated on the spot, there can be but few horrors associated with a public execution." This fearful strife lasted move than twenty minutes, by which time the head was beaten out of all human resemblance. The executioner then ordered a herald to sound his trumpet, upon which silence was called; and the head was delivered to the executioner, who then threw it into a basket as if it were any ordinary plaything. The death-drum was then, brought to the front and beaten with a crooked drumstick by an attendant who sat astride of the instrument. "They are surely not going to murder those two poor wretches," said Fortescue excitedly. "They are! What must be their feelings at this terrible moment? Could there be a greater refinement of cruelty than to bring them out to witness the maltreatment of the head of Adai? " Nothing. It is past all credence. Such blood-thirsty wretches deserve to be utterly exterminated." Mpongwe then took up one of his official knives, which had a human skull by way of hilt guard, and slowly waving it over his head, enjoined silence on the excited throng "Hearken, ye Ashantees! The king has been visited by two white men from their country. Who is so .reat a king as Koflfe 205

SPORT IN ASHAJT. Kalcalli? Have not the white men seen wonders in Coomassie? Have not they been received by the most powerful monarch of Africa; indeed, of the whole earth? Who can stand before Koffee Kalcalli? When he says war, do not the streets run deep with blood, and do not the heads of our enemies fill plenty of baskets? What then is right for him to do? Shall his fathers rise from their graves and ask why the white men did not visit them? Listen what the mighty Koffee Kalcalli is about to do. When his father sat on the stool, did he not send many slaves to the dark Samon,* and shall not his son emulate * The superstitious and horribly cruel practices which are known as the "Customs," both of Ashanti and Dahomey, oiginate in the most curious ideas of the future state. Nearly all Africans believe in an existence hereafter, and the glooms superstitions thereon which are in vogue among the Ashantees and Dahomans are identical with those of both ancient and modern pagans of every clime. The notions entertained by the two great nations of Western Africa respecting the condition of departed souls after death is as follows: The other world is called Samon by the Ashantees, and Kutomen by the Dahomans, and their belief in it is even more firmly impressed upon them than that of any other fetiche. The people of both nations are instructed from their earliest youth with doctrines which ever tend to uphold the sanctity and superiority of the fetiche priests, and are carefully impressed with a teaching which cannot but lead to the continuance of political despotism and the most grovelling degradation of the lower orders. According to their creed, which must be implicitly believed in, or the disciple is mercilessly put out of the way by poison or otherwise, only the kings, princes, and nobles are permitted when their souls are freed by death from their bodies, to dwell in a state of sensuous luxury and eternal happiness. In order to keep up their position in dead-land they require the attendance of a numerous body of slaves with which to set up their ghostly household. For this purpose, it is deemed necessary, and taken as a matter of course, that a number of slaves, proportionate to the rank of the deceased, should be slaughtered, either at the grave or in the bucceeding days of the funeral obsequies of the deceased. Hence the inhuman butchery at the death of every Ashantee caboceer, the immolation to the Samon Moloch reaching its climax at the death of the monarch. Upon such occasions the number of slaves who are killed amounts to thousands, besides the Ocras; and when the corpse is interred a number of the defunct king's wives are buried alive with 2o6

MESSENGERS TO THE DEAD. the deeds of his fathers. He, therefore, is about to send two men to his fathers to tell them that their son has been visited by the white men, and has received presents from them. Mpongwe has spoken." At the conclusion of this harangue, the crowd set up a series of yells and shrieks, which would have done credit to Pandemonium itself; dancing wildly, firing guns in the most reckless manner, gesticulating, and heaping every insult upon the unfortunate messengers to spirit-land. Palm wine was brought out and distributed to the spectators, whose clamour was thereby considerably increased. A small bottle of rum, a pinch of gold dust, and two yams were then given to each of the moritieri, and then with breathless excitement the crowd stood awaiting the final scene. Grasping his fishslice-shaped knife the chief executioner strode it, and then a number of persons are seized haphazard from the crowd, their heads are struck off, and their bodies thrown into the grave, which is then filled up, and the relatives hold a dance over the blood-stained and unhallowed sepulchre of the deceased. The after-life of those who thus suffer from the custom of human sacrifices at the funeral of any noble, is declared by the fetiche priests to be more pleasant than that of the generality of the poorer orders who die a natural death. The souls of those who die in battle are rewarded in the spiritland by gifts of houses, wives, and slates. Those who are slaughtered to attend the nobles to spiritland are supposed to live in the spendid palaces appointed for their masters, and to participate as attendants upon their lords in the celestial enjoyments of their masters. Those of the plebeian class, however, who die in the ordinary course of nature are in a very pitiable condition in the other world. The souls of this mean and worthless class are supposed to sink into a kind of torpid insensibility or eternal hybernation, with only the merest trifle of vitality left to them. Theyare shut up in the temples of the fetiche deities, where they are doomed to imprisonment for ever and ever. Such being the received theory of the souls hereafter, the practice of imtnolating human victims is kept up by the Ashantecs, not only in accordance with their religious ideas, but also much in the same spirit of creating a "sensation" as induces the poorer classes in England to impoverish themselves for a long time in order that they may give the deceased a showy funeral. 207

SPORT IN ASIYANTI. to the front with a proud gait, for in Ashanti there is anything but odium attached to the office of Jack Ketch. The first victim was brought up to one of the war-drums, and a large calabash set before him. A flash, a thud, like chopping meat, and the blood gushed out into the calabash, and all was over. The head was thrown into a second calabash, and then the second messenger was similarly dispatched upon his awful journey. The blood in the calabashes was then sprinkled over the drums, knives, and stools of the executioners, and then the still reeking utensils were handed over to the crowd, who struggled to obtain a few drops of the sanguinary fluid wherewith to smear their faces, those in the rear beiug fain to content themselves with a daub of the red clay of the palace walls. "What fiends! What devils incarnate are these bloodthirsty wretches!" said Fortescue, turning away with a sickening sensation from the fearful sight. "This is what fetichism, combined with natural cruelty, wi!l bring a nation to. No wonder the very name of Ashanti is dreaded by the surrounding tribes when reports of such fearful scenes are carried thither. It is enough to palsy any man's arm, and to cow the bravest heart. They only want to add cannibalism to their rdle, and then their measure of cruelty would be completely filled." While the tumult over the ensanguined calabashes was going on, Fortescue and I kept our faces averted from the horrid scene, resolving to show our detestation and abhorrence of such practices by every means that we dared. The king sent an interpreter to us to tell us to look at the dancing semi-frenzied crowd, but we returned answer that no white man would think well of the King of Ashanti while such practices were continued. iFor more than an hour did the corybantic gestures, and fearful howls and shrieks of the assembled crowd continue to deafen us, At length, to our very great satisfaction, a herald mounted the heap of swish whereon the executioner had made his oration, and 208

.FAREWELL TO KING KOFFEE. beating a large gong-gong richly plated with gold, commanded silence upon the rabble. The king then commanded us to stand up, and when we had arisen and advanced nearer the royal seat, escorted by Mingoten and Quakoo, he made us a very charity-school salaam with a huge black broadbrim, placed ready for the purpose upon a gold plated stool beside him. He then called a caboceer, named Josusu, who, after sprawling isi the dirt after the national custom, knelt before the king. "You see these white friends of mine," said Koffee Kalcalli, addressing the prostrate noble, "they live in my hands. Because they have eaten my meat and drunk my water, they are my friends. All my people must respect them as they would me. They come to see Coomassie and its king, and its people and its 'customs'. They have seen many things. Let them now go to Bantama, where the graves of the kings, my fathers, are built. Let them be told of the treasures of gold and aggry beads and fine cloths, which they amassed, and which lie there. Let them be told that when the enemies of Ashanti come to fight, there is plenty of gold there wherewith to buy guns and powder and bullets, and to pay the fetiche priests to make good fetiche for us when we go to war.* Let them see the graves of the Ocras of my fathers, and the marks on the walls which show the number of the men who were sacrificed when their graves were watered.t Let them count the skulls of the enemies of the Ashantees, that they may learn how great a people they are. When they have seen all this, let them depart on their journey to hunt in the mountains of the far north. Melinda and Aziza are to accompany them, but you, Josusu, will be held responsible for their safety until they have left the mausoleum of Bantama." * The gold dust amassed by each king is buried with him at Bantama, and is only allowed to be used in cases of extreme emergency, and then the monarch is bound by oath to replace it at the first opportunity. Of late years, however, the store has been repeatedly drawn upon with no returns. t Watering the graves is the euphuistical synonym for deluging them with human blood. 2C9

SPORT IN ASHANTI. The audience was then dismissed by an imperious wave of the hand of the monarch, who, after shaking hands with us, not forgetting Richards, who was ready to creep into his shoes at the thought of touching the dreaded King of Ashanti, was conveyed by hammock to one of the more distant quarters of the palace. Josusu, our new chaperon, marshalled our retinue as quickly as possible, and conducted us to a fetiche temple, or rather shed, where he prostrated himself, and gave one of the small trinkets to the fetiche priest in charge, as a propitiation to the deity to ensure a successful issue to his new duty of escorting white mlen. After partaking of a very hasty breakfast, in which a pair of roast guinea-fowls figured conspicuously, having been sent by the king, we started to visit the royal mausoleum at Bantama. Passing through the market-place we struck into a wide street lined with palm, lime, and cocoanut-trees, which led out to the north-western gate of Coomassie. Crowds of people stared at us as Wve passed, making remarks upon us, doubtless not always complimentary, and exchanging salutes with those of our attendants with whom they were acquainted. Just outside the gate we came across several women, perhaps a score in number, who were squatted on the ground on little mats, with their children either tumbling head over heels around them, or taking their natural food as they were hung, rather than sat, upon their mother's hips. "What are these sable Meles doing?" asked Fortescue, as we passed through their midst. "At any rate, it is perfectly evident that one of the principal things is to gossip." "They are breaking palm-nuts, to extract the oil," said I. "Then, are these things like titanic pine-apples, or gigantic fr-. cones, the fruit of the palm-oil palm?" "They are; and these bright orange nuts are the part from which the palm-oil of commerce is extracted." "Well, they seem to be taking off the husks in a very primi- 21IO

MAKING PALI OIL. tive manner. They are simply beating the nuts with a stone; is that the usual practice ?" "It is the universal method from Cape Coast to Cameroons. The women sit round the gates, where they can gossip and talk all the town scandal they are capable of, and denude the nuts of their outer rinds." "Then, it is the outer skin only from which the oil is extracted ?" "Exactly so, and from the kernel a peculiar oil, possessing almost the same properties as cocoanut-oil, is extracted." " How do they get the oil from the kernel ?" " Oh! that is done in England or Germany. The kernels are shipped just as they are to Europe." "Well, tell me how the palm-oil is manufactured; will you, there's a good fellow? I am interested to get all the information I possibly can." "The husks, aFter being taken off the kernels, age either beaten in a mortar, or more frequently thrown into a pit made of hard-beaten earth. A native then gets into the pit and stamps and slaps the husks with his broad feet, until they are reduced to a kind of pulp." "Then nature evidently gave the nigger his snowshoe-like feet for the express purpose of dancing a breakdown upon palm-nut husks, eh?" "It is very certain that unless they had feet with soles as hard and tough as leather itself', they never could stamp out the palm. husks as they do. But I will continue my yarn." "Do so, by all means. I merely threw out the remark as a hint for speculators on the utilitarian theory, who wish to find a reason and use for everything." "The husks being well stamped out, are put into a pot of boiling water. The oil thereby extracted rises to the top, where it is skimmed off, and forms the palm-oil of commerce." "It is principally used for railway-grease and soap, is it not ?" ' Yes; but a great quantity is shipped to Holland, where, by 211 SPORT IN ASHANTI. the aid of other ingredients, and mysterious doctoring, it is transformed into the cheap 'Dutch' butter which is retailed at a shilling a pound in London and other large towns." "Truly, 'where ignorance is bliss, 'tis folly to be wise,'" soliloquised Fortescue. "That's true in more cases than the manufacture of Dutch butter." By this time we had marched about three-quarters of a mile from the north- western gate of Coomassie, and bad arrived opposite a large building built on the same style as the royal palace. Fetiche of all kinds were hanging from the lintel of the main. gate, while a perfect little village of huts of various deities was spread out all over the open space before it. "Well, we have arrived in a land of mystery at last," said Fortescue. "I expect if these ugly little monsters could speak, they could unfold a tale of horror such as would cause a sensation even among the readers of the Police News." "No doubt they have witnessed many a bloody massacre and unholy fetiche ceremony." We were duly announced by Josusu, who entered into what appeared to be a very confidential conversation with a sleek negro, who guarded the portal to the Ashantee Westminster Abbey. This was enough to put Richards in a fearful stew, and he whispered to himself, but loud enough to be heard by everybody near him, "We are all going to be brought in here, and then hacked to pieces as a sacrifice to some of these ugly-looking gods." "If you don't keep that mouth of yours shut, I'll tell the chief priest what you are talking about," said Fortescue. "It is lucky for you that none of the people round you understand a word of English, for depend upon it, your sheepish cowardice would have got us into many a scrape ere this if they had." When the argument, or whatever it was, between Josusu and the doorkeeper was concluded, we were summoned to enter. 2 T2

TUBE BANTAA T3OMBS. All the hammock-men and porters were told in a very peremptory tone to remain outside, Melinda, Josusu, Fortescue, and I alone being allowed to enter the sacred courtyards, not even Aziza being considered of sufficient importance to receive permission to pass under the fetiche-guarded portal. A grey-beaded fetichist, with a seared and withered countenance, and tottering steps, met us on the threshold, and having received "bagsheesh" from our bands, seemed willing to instruct us in all and every mystery of the fetiche. The tombs of the kings were mere barns filled with all sorts of finery and trumpery, most of them in a semi-decayed state. Round the grave itself scores of human skulls and bones were thickly implanted in the soil, all stained deep red with human blood. " Where is the golden treasure the old king spoke of, I wonder?" said Fortescue. "I expect it is carefully guarded from the eyes of the curious," I replied. " Can you tell us, Melinda ?" "It is buried in the same house as the king, whose property it was, but no one but the king, the Ocras, and the head feticheers know the exact spot." Leaving this charnel-house we were conducted to the chief fetiche temple, which was situated on one side of the principal courtyard. Here the same overpowering smell of blood absolutely sickened us, and right glad were we to get into the open air again. It was a perfect museum of its kind; deities of every possible shape or kind, animal, vegetable, or mineral, being thickly strewn over the floor, or lodged in little niches in the walls. Scraps of parchment, inscribed with sentences from the Koran, dangled from the rafters, or were suspended in highly decorated bags round the necks of the deities. In the centre was a large heap of earth, beaten very bard, ani surrounded with skulls, whereon some of the victims for the king's funeral are sacrificed. Opposite to it, but outside in the courtyard, was an immense brazen-pan, shaped like a huge washhand-basin, about five feet in iij

SPORT IN ASHAT1. diameter. This was supported on four animals, supposed to be lions, but which would puzzle any naturalist to determine exactly their species. In this vessel the blood of the victims is poured, and the fetiche priests and relatives of the deceased assemble round, dabbling in it with their hands, smearing their faces with it from time to time, and occasionally even drinking therefrom as their frenzy culminates in, what may justly be termed, temporary madness. These various objects were explained to us by the aged priest through the medium of Melinda, whose frequent intercourse with English'speaking persons on the Coast had rendered him tolerably well up in the singular patois which passes for English all along the Coast. Leaving this cup f libation to the Ashantee Moloch, we passed on to a long building to the left, where we were assured the spirits of the defunct monarch were accustomed to sit and gaze at the funereal obsequies of their relatives. If everything was conducted on a proper scale they signified their pleasure through the medium of the head fetichist, but if not they caused the earth to tremble. The interior of this sacred edifice was carefully concealed from too inquisitive eyes by a series of gaudy cloths of various materials, from splendid silks to the commonest bed-ticking. Our tour of inspection being over, we left the palace and were escorted to our quarters by Josusu, who then left us rejoicing in the possession of a case of liqueurs, whose fiery contents are ever acceptable to the African palate. It was by this time too late to think of starting, and we were not by any means adverse to enjoying another sound night's rest, for it was not likely that we shoald find such comfortable sleepingquarters anywhere else in tlhe kingdom, especially as we were going northwards, where the population was even less dense than between Coomassie and the southern frontier. A few bottles of rum were doled out to our attendants, who made merry therewith far into the night, the present being the 214

LAST NIGHT IN COOMASSIh. 215 great idea with the negro, and such a thing as husbanding their strength for a hard day's work the next day while there were four bottles of rum waiting to be emptied was quite beyond their ken. I am afraid negroes, however, are not the only people to whom a bottle of grog is an irresistible temptation.

CHAPTER XL WE tVArE COOMASSIE TOR THE INTERIOR-A DEWY MORNINO-M T AIV -RICHARDS GETS INTO A FIX-OUR CAMP IN THE FOREST-WI CONSIDER OUR FUTURE ROUTE-NEWS OF THE CHIMPANZEE-- FETICH1 GAME-FORTESCUE WALKS INTO THE ANTS AND THEY WALK INTO HI3 -HOW MELINDA TELEGRAPHED FOR ASSISTANCE- HIS VOW--THE MESSENGERS OF THE ASHANTEE GODS-THE MAN WITH THE CAST-IRON STOMACH-ALLIGATORS-CROSSING ON A REED RAFT-FIGHTING A CROCODILE IN THE WATER-A TERRIBLE SNAKE ADYE TURE. LONG before daylighbt the indefatigable Aziza had aroused the hammock-men and porters, and, while they were munching their plantains, employed himself in sacrificing a fowl to his particular fetiche. One of the hammock-men, a slim, well- knit fellow, named Ahundatob, seemed to be suddenly possessed with an evil spirit, for he was dancing and caperinig about in the most exuberant spirits, as though the prospect of a long day's march was the most delightful thing in his whole stock of delightful things. Rather a queer idea I considered, for the duty of a hammock. man is by no means a sinecure. The loads having been duly assigned to their respective bearers, and all preliminaries gone through, the porters started under the charge of Aziza, leaving Fortescue and I to follow. A guard of honour, consisting of thirty soldiers, had been in attendance to conduct us through the town since yesterday at mid-day, and as we filed out of the gates, they set up a series of

WE LEA VE COOMA SSIE. random shots, yells, and shrieks, which a stranger would havo considered to be anything but a compliment. Behind the guard came the porters with our immediate personal effects, then followed Richards and his comrade, next caine Fortescue and I, while Melinda marched on foot* beside us; the rear was brought up by Sackie and three other personal attendants, who carried our guns and ammunition, except only a revolver, without which we never stirred out. Daybreak was only in its infancy as we orossed the now deserted market-place, not a soul being visible, except the guard stationed round the royal pavilion, who struck up a monotonous rub-a-dub as we passed them. Our route lay through the street leading towards the Bantama palace, but ere we reached that ensanguined spot we turned off abruptly to the right, and, entering the plantations, soon found ourselves filing along the narrow paths which are here dignified by the name of roads. The morning was unusually chilly, and a thick white mist, resembling those of the Highlands of Scotland, enveloped everything, save the nearest objects, in its cloudy covering; a drenching dew, such as is only to be found within the tropics, saturated each bush and tree, and as they were stricken off by the passage of our train, the heavy drops descended in a ceaseless patter upon the awnings of our hammocks, which, as wett as ourselves beneath, they soon wetted through. At intervals of every hundred yards or thereabouts we passed fetiche temples with their sanguinary deities rotting to decay, while several vultures flapped themselves away on lazy wings, startled from their sacrilegious feastings by our approach. Fortescue and I were inwardly consigning the Macadams of the country to perdition as the hammock-bearers jostled the branches of the shrubs against us as they walked through the narrow paths, thereby rendering it highly necessary for us to 0 No officer in Dahomey or As'nanti, however exalted may be his rank, is permitted to ride in a hammock, and horses are never used except for display. 917

SPORT i" ASHANT1 keep a sharp look-out, unless we wished to have a succession of smarting switches across the face. "Early risers in this favoured land have no need to waste time over their ablutions if they only take a morning constitutional through the plantations," said Fortescue, wringing out the water from hLs jacket sleeves. "No, they can get a pretty good washing in a maize field, and when clean they have only to stand in the sun to get dry." Presently a series of "ye-gee's" and curious jerking wrigglings of the hammock- bearers caused us to start up from the usual reclining position assumed by hammock travellers. "Halloa ! here's a pretty go, we've got into the middle of one of the droves of those accursed ants. Go on, you fellows, look alive I" The smarting bearers, instead of making the best of their speed across the trains of ants, had stopped to pick off those which had assailed them; by so doing they not only let themselves open to the attacks of the ants, but an inquisitive train were endeavour. ing to reach the sanctunz sanctorum of our hammocks. "If these fellows don't look sharp out of this we shall be eaten alive. Here, Melinda, just move on these idiots before they set us down to shift for ourselves." The caboceer applied a few vigorous strokes of his walkingstick* to the backs and shins of the hammock-men, who thereby saw the utility of getting out of the ants' way, as well to escape the blows of Melinda's stick as to escape their stings. A few yards on and we came across poor Richards in a pitiable plight. His hammock-men, like ours, had come in contact with the drivers, but, instead of hurrying through them, they had coolly set the hammock down in their midst, leaving the unlucky occupant enveloped in the hammock and awning to struggle out as best he could; of course, before he could clear himself, the * The walking-stick is a regular institution on the Wrest Coast; by its size and shape the rank of the wearer is known. Many are finely carved and gold-plated. 2IS

MORP ANTS. unfortunate Richards was literally covered with drivers, and when we came up he was sitting stark naked on a fallen treetrunk, picking out the greedy little torments from the seat and legs of his unmentionables. His appearance was truly wretched, but withal so ludicrous, that both Fortescue and I fairly roared with laughter. "This will never do," said I; "if these niggers get playing such tricks with a white man, even although he is only our servant, they will lose all respect for us by-and- by. We must sc Melinda on the delinquents." "I'm just of your opinion. You see, Richards, what is the consequence of behaving so foolishly as -you have been doing lately. By your cowardice you have rendered yourself an object of derision to these niggers, and so have got into this scrape. For the sake of our reputation, if not for your own, do keep up a better appearance before them." "I wish I had never been born," drawled out the poor antbitten wretch, his skin looking as if he had been well flgellated with a branch of holly. "If you had never been born, you would never have kno wn anything about which to have either likes or dislikes, so I don't see the force of your complaint." Melinda had gone on ahead to fetch up the runaway hmmock-men, whom he found coolly lying under the shade of a cotton-tree about a hundred yards away. le set upon thecr, and belaboured them about their heads and shins with a vigour which quickly brought them to a scnse of their disobedience, as they knelt in the most abject manner before the caboceer, giving vent the while to the most hideous childlike cries. "What an advantage it must be to have a thick skull when one is subject to such very impressive correction," said Fortescue; "why one of those blows would stun any civiliscd being." "Don't you know a nigger's bead is about the least tender portion of him ? If you doubt it, just try a boxing match with the first one you come across." 219

SPOR T IN ASHANTI. " Oh! after the present exhibition I am quite content to tako your word for it, thank you for the suggestion all the same." Rubbing their shins, and crying like so many overgrown babies, the hammock- men returned to their duty and again took up the luckless Richards. "I'll bet that fellow is in another scrape before the day is out," said he. Nor was his prophecy incorrect, for before we halted for our breakfast at the village of Kongomen, he bad been fairly jolted out of his hammock, and made his appearance before us with a very decided case of the "gravel rash." We had marched nine miles since leaving Coomassie in the morning, and the keen air whetted our appetites, so that we did ample justice to the savoury stews which our chef de cui8ine set before us. We left Kongomen during the afternoon, and ere nightfall, Lad entered the extensive forest which extends from the slopes of the Kong mountains down to the marshy land round Cooatshic. Our feelings were of the gayest, for we were now on the eonflines of one of the best bunting-grounds in the whole of western Africa. Our camp presented a busy scene. Some of our porters, having disencumbered themselves of their loads, which were piled up in the centre of the encampment, were lighting fires for cooking our evening meal, while others were gathering dry wood wherewith to kindle a circle of fire round us when darkness set in. Sackie and our immediate attendants were assisting in the erection of our tent, under the supervision of Richards and Stuart. Black pots were soon steaming on the fires, and our people forming themselves into little groups squatted round the bubbling cauldrons; high overhead the gigantic trees shut out all but small patches of sky, and as the sun went down and the quick succeeding darkness fell around us, the flickering firelight lit up the lowermost branches and nearest trunks with a ruddy glare, which rendered them singularly weird-like as they contrasted with the gloom beyond. z 0

CHIMPANZEES. We were soon busily engaged in "getting outside" our al fresco supper, and then, Melinda having set the watches for the night, we turned into our hammocks and slept soundly until we were roused at daylight by the loud clamouring of the porters, -,s they lit their morning pipes at the fires. "Well, what is to be the order of the day's proceedings P" said 1, as we sipped our coffee out of our tin pannikins. "Let us call in Melinda and Aziza to our council, and then we will determine the best programme." When our guide and chief hunter had squatted on the ground beside us, for they dared not sit in our presence, we told them the purpose for which they had been summoned, and asked their opinion as to our future course. "Do you wish to get up to the mountains at once, or do you intend to hunt as you go along ?" asked Melinda "We are undetermined at present. If we go straight on, we shall certainly see more of the country, but it is impossible to hunt while we are tramping along from one village to another." "Then you want to move slowly and hunt?" said Aziza. "That in my opinion is the best that we can do. What do you think of it, Danvers ?" "Oh! as for me I haven't a choice in the matter. By all means let us do that which will be the most exciting and which will give us plenty of sport; perhaps if we were to move slowly towards the mountains, hunting as we went along, we could kill the two birds with one stone." "Is there plenty of good sport near here, Aziza?" asked Fortescue. "Two days' journey from here and we come to a big river; on the other side of that is the favourite ground for the elephant, there too are plenty of buffalo, leopard, and a big monkey as big as a boy." "Do you mean a chimpanzee P" I asked with considerable anxiety, for I was unaware that the chimpanzee had been seen so far to the westward. "Yes, that is the animal; he is very big, and sometimes walks 22T

SPORT IN ASHANT. like a man, but he generally runs on his feet and one hand ; he is very ugly with a black face and white hands. He lives in the forest." "You are quite sure the big monkey lives in the forests be. yond the river, Aziza ?" "Sure! Why only four moons ago I myself did alone shoot one. He cried too much, and beat his breast when I first shot him, for I did not kill him until I had fired twice." "Well, let us get to the other side of the river as fast as possible," said Fortescue; "it will be fine sport to shoot chimpanzees, to say nothing of elephants." "If there were only gorillas we might be satisfied, but they are only found in the Gaboon district." "We must go to the Gaboon district after them then,-you know the proverb about Mohammed and the mountain, of course ? " "Oh, yes! but let us first get out of the present journey be. fore we talk of another. I doubt not but that we shall be very glad to exchange the yam stews and cankie of tropical Africa for the roast beef and plum-pudding of old England before we get down to the Coast again." "Then let us up and away for the river, Melinda; we will waste no time in beating round the edges of the forest, but plunge at once into the heart of it.' Loads w(re again adjusted, hammocks slung, and we were once more on the road; the path became narrower and less distinct as mile after mile was left behind us, until little but the merest track showed that any human being had ever passed that way before us. When Fortescue and I resumed our march after our halt for breakfast, we discarded our hammocks, preferring to walk through the leafy glades of the forest to lying in a state of semiwakefulness in our hammocks. The forest became more and more dense as we advanced, until we could not have seen an elephant had he been ten yards from the path; thick-stemmed cQnvolvulacew entwined their wiry arms round every bush and 222

FOREST SCENERY. tree, weaving a net-work which could only be penetrated by means of cutting through with a machete, or sword-knife; the thick carpeting of leaves, which had been gathering for centuries, lay felted, as it were, under our feet, deadening the sound of our footsteps, and rendering the walk anything but an arduous one. High overhead the topmost branches of the gigantic trees shut out all but dancing patches of that scorching sunshine, which was blazing away with tropical fervour. "What a glorious country this is!" said Fortescue, as we rested for an instant on a fallen trunk and lighted our pipes, "one could almost fancy oreself in an English wood rather than in a tropical forest." " There is certainly not a little likeness between some of the old woods of Hampshire and the forests of Africa; that is, where the trees arc of the same character as those around us: the akbatas are excellent substitutes for elms, and the mpandos for oaks, while this thick undergrowth of bracken and bramble carries one at once to the parks of our native land. Aye, and the Very footpaths are just like the tracks through a plantation; if we only had the song of the lark or thrush and the sight of a pheasant, the picture would be more complete." "There is the finishing touch then," said I, as several guinea. fowl rose from the middle of an open spot to our right, and whirred away to the top of a cotton-tree. "I'll have one of those fellows for supper to-night," said Fortescue putting his gun to his shoulder. "Hold! you forget you are in Ashanti, and not in England. DJon't you know those birds are fetiche ? If we were to shoot one so near to our people as this, we should certainly be discovered, and then a palaver would be the inevitable consequence at the next village." "Confound the people and their stupid fetiche! I wonder they don't make the very roads fetiche. Certainly, the Ashantee religion is not by any means an easy-going one for its votaries." "There's something better," shouted .1, letting drive at a 223

24SPORT IN ASHANTI. couple of partridges scurrying away to the left; "you take the pair to tile right." "Crack, crack," went our guns, and down fell a couple of brace of the African partridge, which is rather larger than its European congener. "Now then, Sackie," said T, " don't try to squeeze your eyes out of your head by staring; if you open your mouth much wider you will have the top of your head coming off," I continued as our attendant gazed at the birds and our guns with the utmost astonishment, since the idea of shooting four birds flying off-hand appeared to be simply supernatural. On turning round to reload I was astonished to see Fortescue cutting the most ludicrous capers, and rubbing his legs in the iiost frantic manner. "Halloa! more ants P" said I. "Yes. The cursed things seem everywhere; I was foolish enough to stop to reload without looking to my feet, and here's the consequence. Hang the brutes! " continued he, making still more acrobatic movements, "I've been and stepped into a whole swarm of them." The ants being picked off his legs, we continued our march, leaving Sackie to bring on the game. Butterflies of many hues flitted by us, sailing down the glades, or fluttering round the tree-tops far out of reach; parroquets made harsh noises in the topmost sprays of the loftiest trees, while the "coo-coo" of the carrion-crow was beard dismally from some far-off stump; mon. keys, startled by our approach, crashed recklessly, as it would seem, from branch to branch, or sat grinning at us from some leafy perch. Meanwhile our people had hastened on to the village where we were to pass the night, and when we overtook Melinda, we found him busily skinning a couple of fine antelopes which he had shot. "How are we going to bring in the game to camp P " said Fortescue; "neither of us can carry it; Melinda is already loaded, and as for Sackie, he is not to be thought of." 224

MELINDA'S TELEGRA PI. "I suppose Melinda will telegraph for assistance," said I. "So I expect, and will call the first hansom cab he meets to drive him to camp. None of your jokes here, old fellow." "I wasn't joking at all. I suppose there are more ways of telegraphing than by electricity? " "I forgot that; but how on earth will Melinda fetch up our men? ". "You will see as soon as he is ready." The two antelopes being skinned, Melinda Lung them from the branches of a tree, so as to be out of reach of any prowling beast, and then, putting his hands funnel- wise to his lips, gave vent to a whoop which fairly deafened us. "So that's your telegraph, is it? I question if it will be effi. cacious in the present instance." "You've no idea how far a sound like that can be heard. I've been in the Australian bush scores of times, and if I had not 'cooied' to my companions, often a mile away, should have been lost to a certainty. There he goes again." Scarcely had the echoes of the last whoop died away than we beard a faint reply coming apparently from an immense distance. "There's the answer," said I, "and now Melinda will talk to the answerer."1 "Talk! Why you don't mean to say they can distinguish words so far off as this, do you ?" "No. But they have certain modulations of voice which stand for words and phrases such as are of most frequent use,' Come here,' 'I am here,' and similar sentences. For example, I have often been on the rivers of the Gaboon country, and my men have kept up quite a conversation with a person in one of the villages quite half a mile from our canoe." While our conversation was going on, Melinda was making a series of curious noises, and when he had finished we heard a similar string of " cooies" from his companion. "There, we will now go on to camp. I have called some people, and we shall meet them further on; they can go back for the antelopes, which will be cuite safe where they are." 225 SPORT IN ASZA4NT'. "But why did you take the trouble to skin them, Melinda? Why not have left them to the labourers ?" "I made fetiche three days ago to skin all the animals I killed myself." "What was the good of that ? I should think it was imposing unnecessary trouble upon yourself." "You know that Melinda is in great trouble. You know that he only in Ashanti till he again finds Awoona. He has made fetiche often and often, so that he may discover where Awoona lives. The fetiche men this time said that if I skinned every beast I killed I should obtain the assistance of Kpalankata the fetiche deity, who rules this country, and he would, perhaps, show me where Awoona lives." "It is rather a curious way to obtain the good graces of a deity. How is this Palaka, or whatever his name is, benefited by your skinning the animals you shoot ?" "I leave the skins on the ground, and the ants, who are the messengers of Kpalankata, come there and eat it, and carry the news to Kpalankata that I have killed the antelope and left the skin on the ground for him. Then Kpalankata remembers -Melinda, and will assist him to find Awoona." "I wish the deity would curtail the number of his messengers," said Fortescue ruefully, scratching his legs, "or, at any rate, give orders to prevent them paying visits to white men." "Here come the fellows summoned by Melinda, I suppose," said I, as a couple of men made their appearance. Melinda having given instructions to the men where to find the antelopes, and telling them on no account to meddle with the skins as they were fetiche, we continued our march, and shortly afterwards entered a small village where our arrival caused no small excitement among the few inhabitants. The caboceer made his appearance, and after producing some very clayey water, made ummistakable sign§ that he wanted to drink our health. "We will give the old toper a taste of a liquor he has never :126

CAST-IRO.N STOMA CH2S. had the pleasure of drinking before, rll wager," said Fortescue. "Here, Sackie, bring me that small chest." The small chest alluded to contained our store of medicines, and taking a bottle of chloroform therefrom he poured out a few drops into a tumbler, together with a little cayenne pepper, and filling it up with water, offered it to the caboceer. With glittering eyes the officer swilled off the fiery draught, and when he regained his breath, shook his head in token of his thorough appreciation of our mixture. Beckoning to one of his men, who stood near, gaping with wonder at us, he despatched him for a conple of fowls. "I suppose we must give him another bumper for this," said Fortescue. "Oh! yes. It will please him and not hurt us.' A brimming tumbler of the new drink was therefore mixed, and a little having been duly tipped over to the fetiche,* he greedily swallowed the remainder. Making a very sedate bow, he took his leave, smacking his lips, and looking as happy as a pig in a mud hole. "Ta-ta, old chap," said Fortescue, "and may the fetiche grant you pleasant dreams. What a fine thing it is to have a leathern stomach." "Well, I really think niggers have castiron ones, for they will drink anything. I remember once sending ashore a bottle containing snakes in spirit, and when it arrived at the factory it was empty as regards the liquor, but the reptiles were all right. The head bos'n declared that the cork came out, and the contents were spilled. That was quite true, but the fellow omitted to say that the contents were spilled down the throats of himself and his companions." "What, drink spirit in which snakes were preserved! Well, that beats the yarn about the sailor tapping the admiral. I shall never have any qualms of conscience about giving niggers any. thing to drink after that.' * No West African ever drinks any water or sprits without first spilling a little on the ground as an offering to the fetiche, 227

SPORT IN ASHANTI. During the night we were several times aroused by the tweettwoo, tweet-twoo of a couple of immense owls which were flyingabout, and which invariably chose the ridge pole of our hut as the rostrum from which to deliver their doleful speeches. Justbefore sunrise, too, a five-inch scorpion awoke me by running over my foot, and after that I didn't get much sleep, as the reader can very well imagine. The next day we arrived at the banks of a stream about ten o'clock in the morning, and came to a halt as there was only a single canoe in the village, and that, to use an Irishism, was not there at all, the owner having gone down stream with it. "Well, here's a pretty go. Cannot one of the fellows swim across, and try and hunt cut another canoe ? There surely must. be more than one in the village." "Swim across," said Melinda, shaking his head. "I'll show you what the swimmer would receive if he were to try to do so." Saying this, he picked up a thick stick which lay at his feet, and threw it into the middle of the stream. Scarcely had the ripples died away than a couple of heads were protruded from the water, and as many alligators of enormous size grabbed at the floating stick. Finding its taste, how. ever, by no means agreeable to their palates, they let it go, and it was floating down with the current. A hundred yards lower down another saurian made an investigation of the stick, and he likewise declined to make his luncheon therefrom. " IM! no swimming across for me. I've no desire to make a personal inspection of the internal arrangements of a crocodile just yet. I'm afraid that my fetiche is not good enough to warrant me trying to emulate Jonah and the whale by means of an alligator," said Fortescue. "Is there no means of getting across?" said I to lelinda., when the persons assembled on the opposite bank had repeated their former assertion that there was not a single canoe in thevillage. "If we cannot get across anyhow else, we must build a raft." 228

A CUNNING ALLICATOR. "That will be a work of time, for these mangroves are as hard as iron." "We don't want mangroves to make a raft," said Melinda, "they are too heavy. Oh ! see, there is Aziza crossing already." As we looked out upon the sunlit waters of the stream, we saw to our dismay, our hunter crossing on wbat appeared to us to be a bundle of sticks. A closer inspection, however, revealed the fact of his raft being constructed of reeds and rushes, a thicket of which he had discovered a few yards further down the bank. "I should hardly have thought that such a frail raft would have possessed sufficient bouyancy to support a man." " Oh ! yes," said I; "I have often crossed the streams in Oregon by means of a rush raft. They will not last very long, to be sure, and it is best to make a very large one if the breadth of the stream is considerable." Well, are we going across after the same fashion, I wonder?" said Fortescue. " Oh! I dare say when Aziza gets across he will ferret out some craft or other with which to put us and our traps across. But, good heavens, there is an alligator on the shore just where Aziza is about to land. For God's sake, let us warn him. I-i! Aziza! Aziza I" said I, shouting out and pointing with my hand to the alligator. "All eyes were at once directed to the spot, and a chorus of' voices shrieked out the words, "Obomba! Obomba! Alligator! Alligator !" Raising his head, for he was lying flat along his reed raft, pro. pelling it by means of the branch of a tree, Aziza saw his danger. Just at the same instant the alligator appeared to have caught sight of the man, and, with the innate cunning of his race, saw at a glance that Aziza would in all probability prove an easy victim. Lashing his enormous tail from side to side, sending clots of mud flying in all directions, the great lizard began to waddle towards the stream. Raising his head, and opening his finmenso

SPORT IN ASHIAN2Z jaws, he emitted a hideous bellow, and shutting them with a clash, which could be heard even where we stood helplessly looking on, he gained the water's edge. "Good God!" said Fortescue, "cannot anything be done to save him P Is there no chance of a shot ?' "Not at this distance. A ball striking his mailed sides would glance off without doing any more damage than to an ironclad." "Oh! it is fearful. What a horrible death to be devoured by an alligator! Ugh! it makes one's blood curdle at the thought:' At this moment a series of cries of "Yegee, yegee," from our people, attracted our attention. We then saw Melinda plunging into the stream, and making rapid progress across, shouting and splashing with all his might. The noise be made evidently attracted the attention of the alligator, for the saurian paused an instant ere he plunged into the stream. That instant was sufficient for Aziza, who, reaching out to the overhanging branch of a mangrove, drew himself off the raft, and clambered along the network of branches until he arrived immediately over the alligator. "Thank heaven, Aziza is saved; but how about Melinda P" "He knows what he is about, depend upon it," said I, "but, oh! horror, there goes the alligator straight at him." With powerful strokes the alligator made straight at Melinda, who was already some yards distant from the opposite bank. Ere he reached him, however, we saw, to our amazement, Aziza drop from his perch on the mangrove right down upon the creature's back. For an instant the beast seemed paralysed at so extraordinary a proceeding. During this second of time Aziza bad stabbed the alligator in the eye, and as it began to the water into seething foam, he took a dive from off its back, and soon regained the shore, where he was joined an instant after by Melinda. "Hurrah ! both saved," cried Fortescue and I, "but what a narrow escape for both of them ! Who ever heard of riding on 230

A NARROW ESCAPE. an alligator's back before ? This beats Baron Munchausen all to fits." "I suspect Aziza stabbed the alligator with a poisoned arrow," said Fortescue, "for here the body comes floating along, and apparently lifeless." "Ah! I never thought of that. Aziza showed me only a few days before a small pouch of arrows, every one of which was poisoned. He told me he used them to kill antelopes when he did not wish to disturb the rest of the herd; the poison is almost immediately fatal, but does not affect the meat." The body of the alligator, carried by the eddying current, had floated right across the stream to our side, where it was laid bold of by our people, who dragged it ashore and proceeded to cut out the teeth, which were invaluable as fetiches. When ]Fortescue and I approached, we observed a small arrow sticking in the eye of the beast, which I immediately recognised as one of the same kind as I had seen in the pouch of our hunter. Shortly after this escapade we saw Melinda and Aziza, attended by a crowd, dragging a newly-made canoe. This was quickly launched, and in a few miuutes the two persons who bad so narrowly escaped a horrible death leaped out and stood beside us. "You were nearly caught by the alligator, Melinda," said I. "0h! no, my fetiche is good for all the alligators in Ashanti. I knew that Aziza could not use his arrows while he was in the water, so I gave him the opportunity by attracting the notice of the alligator to myself." "I suppose you lay the fact of your escape to your fetiche too, don't you, Aziza ?" said Fortescue. " Oh! yes. It was the fetiche that put it into Melinda's head to swim across to help me. The fetiche is very good to Aziza." The canoe which Melinda had brought over for our transport proved to be one of the most gingerly of those ever gingerly craft. :23 1

SPOR T IN A SHA NTI. It was about eighteen feet long, and only eleven inches broad, with a flat bottom and raised ends. "Look out for yourself," said I, as Fortescue took up his position on a short piece of stick which he had placed across the sides of the canoe to act as a seat. "I wonder who on earth invented such machines for capsizing people," said he, as he managed to keep his equilibrium after nearly overturning the canoe. "Practice makes perfect. By the time you have been capsized a hundred times, and nearly drowned twice, you will be quite accustomed to canoeing." "Drowned! Why such a thing would be impossible in this river. There are so many alligators to take a fellow in out of the wet." "Well, look out, I am coming on board." Carefully stepping on the stern of the canoe, I took up my position opposite Fortescue, and then Melinda giving us a push off, we were propelled across by the stalwart fellow who stood in the bow, using his long paddle with vigorous strokes, and keeping us in continual fear that he would overturn us every time he put his paddle into the water. We found the village nearly deserted, by reason of the people being away at their plantations, which, as is customary in many West African villages, were situated some miles away from their dwellings. However, this was an advantage in one respect, for our people had no difficulty in finding accommodation, and in a short time Fortescue and I were busily packing away the specimens of butterflies and beetles which we had collected on our march. As was usual, all the urchins in the village were collected round our door, or peeping through the interstices of the bamboo walls of our hut, making very free comments upon our appearance. We turned in soon after dark, being thoroughly wearied by our walk, and hoped to refresh our weary limbs by a sound sleep. 232

A SNAKA AD VPENRJE. 23 Alas! our wishes were doomed to bitter disappoiutment. Scarcely had we turned in and composed ourselves as well as we could on the creaking bamboo benches, which are the national bedsteads, than our ears were assailed by a sound which caused our blood to curdle in our veins. This was a prolonged hiss, which seemed to arise from the corner of our hut near the door. " Good God! there's a snake," said Fortescue. "And no light, and all my matches are in my haversack hanging on the other side of the room. Have you any matches about you, Danvers P" "Not a single one. Let us rouse the boy. Here, Sackie!" Again and again did we shout, until we thought that the dead themselves would be raised, but in vain. No answer did we obtain to our outcry. "I'll back a nigger to sleep through an earthquake," said Fortescue. " Hi! Sackie, Sacki-e-c." "Again no answer. Well, it is no use stopping here to be bitten by the brute. We must run the gauntlet, and open the door and get out of this." "Just so; but let us try if we cannot get a sight of the brute in the light which we get through the holes in the sides of the room." "By love! there it is," said Fortescue, pointing to a corner where I could just make out, by following his finger, the glitter of two eyes, which were swaying about and dancing from sido to side with a peculiar movement. The two spots of light were twinkling and scintillating with a peculiar cold glitter, which made one feel as if a cup of icy cold water had been poured down one's back. "Ugh! I would sooner face any creature than a snake," said I. " Just look at the vile reptile swaying about as if it wished to dazzle us with its wicked-looking eyes. The very light that shimmers in them has a spiteful look." "How are we to get to the door ? Hang these fellows, where 233

SPORT IN ASHANTI. can Richards and Stuart be P Surely, they too cannot be sleep. ing like the dead? We anxiously waited the d'nouement; either the snake would attack us at once or would move so as to leave the way out by the door free. Suddenly we heard footsteps outside, and Aziza appeared at our door. The noise made by.his approach seemed to alarm the snake, whose motions became quicker than ever, until they seemed to be a tremulous quivering, rather than a pendulous movement of the head. "Look out," cried Fortescue, as with a few rapid movements the snake made at us. In the darkness Fortescue stumbled over a low stool, on which we had been sitting, and ere he could recover himself the snake was upon him. Rearing itself almost straight upright, with its head bent back with a graceful curve, which even in that terrible moment I could not but notice, and spitting out its saliva, the reptile gave vent to a series of hisses int- which the whole spite of its race seemed to be concentrated. Suddenly a quivering seemed to run like an electric shock through the length of the snake, and with eyes blazing out with even greater lustre than before, the reptile made the stroke. With a shriek, I struck at it with the handle of my net, but could not tell in the darkness whether I had hit it or not. The door was burst in by Melinda, who had given the alarm, and a dozen lighted brands held by the crowd who had assembled,' threw a light upon a scene such as I shall never, never forget. Half lying, half sitting on the floor was Fortescue with the snake coiled round his arm and neck, while he grasped the creature's neck behind his own head. In this constrained attitude he held the venomous reptile, but dared not move a single inch, lest the snake should escape his clutch and give the fatal wound. The body of the reptile was winding and twisting round the arm of poor Fortescue, shortening and elongating itself with the most inconceivable rapidity.

SA VED PP OM DEA 3H. "Hold on for an instant, old fellow," said I, as I darted to my haversack, where I obtained a knife. "Quick, for God's sake," said he, "the snake is squeezing itself through my fingers; I must let go in a second." To my horror I saw the head of the snake slowly creeping from Fortescue's grip, and I hastened to draw the keen blado across the reptile's body " Stop," said Melinda, just as I was about severing the head. "If the head itself bites you, you will die." Saying this, he took up a piece of stick and doubling it upon itself, thus formed a rude forceps; passing this over the snake'shead, he held it tight while I severed it from the writhing body. "Thank God," said I, as Melinda threw the head into the fire opposite our door, "but, good heaven! he has fainted." Now that the awful excitement was over, and the fearful danger averted, the revulsion of feelings was too much for Fortescue, who toppled over on the floor in a swoon. "Water, quick, you fellows," said I, as I raised his bead. "Here, Richards, unfasten his shirt-front while I support him. Now, then, don't make a fool of yourself," said I, as the poor timid wretch went about his work in a bungling manner, with his eyes everywhere except on his own business "Do you think there are a dozen snakes in the place ?" said I in disgust at his fears. "Here, be off before I throw something at you. I'll undo it myself." In a few minutes we succeeded in restoring Fortescue to consciousness, and having mixed a stiff glass of grog apiece, we left our hut and went out to the fire, which, by our orders, was kept burning all night, whether we were in a village or encamped in the bush. "I'll be hanged if I can sleep in that hut any more to-night," said Fortescue. "I suggest that we have our hammocks slung out here some. where," said I. "A happy thought. Here, Richards, Sackie, and the rest of you, bring out our hammocks, and sling them under that tree." 235

236 SPORT PA ASHANTI. Lighting our pipes, we got into our hammocks, and managed to snatch a few hours of very disturbed sleep; at least, such it was in my case, for I was continually wrestling with snakes, or being fascinated by one, or doing something equally pleasant. Right glad were both of us when Richards aroused us with the pleasant news, "Coffee is ready, sir "

CHAPTER XII. DDVUASST-WE 1R ' NVITED TO THE MAURTAGE o A CABOCERCURIOUS CEREMONY-ASHANTEE UMBRELLAS AND ASHANTEE GUNS-AN ASHANTEE BRIDE-WATER VERSUS CARBOLIC ACID Foun days after our adventure with the snake we arrived at the town of Dedumassie, situated on the banks of the Of Lun River. This was a town rather larger than any we bad seen since leaving Coomassie, and our reception was on a corresponding greater scale. As we passed through the town on our way to our quarters we beard a fearful din of horns, gong-gongs, drums, and other national instruments of music proceeding from one of the houses on our left. "What on earth is the matter here ? Have you any idea, Melinda ?" "No, but I will ask Leamba," the chief caboceer, who was walking a few steps ahead of us; it being the national custom for the host to precede his guest upon all occasions. "There is a grand wedding to-night," said our chief, returning from the caboceer. "Orinzona, the daughter of the chief caboceer of Ganzu, is to be married to Verogan, the second caboceer of Dedumassie. It is the fourth wife he has taken, for Yerogan has plenty of slaves, and is high in the opinion of King Koffee Kalcalli."

SPORT IN A'SHANTI. "What a happy man!" said Fortescue. "I suppose he is allowed to eat rather more dirt than less favoured individuals ?" "Perhaps so; but cannot we get a sight of the ceremony, Melinda ?" Verogan is a friend of Melinda. When he lived at Prahsu we often hunted together, and in the war with the Assins he and 1 fought side by side. Yerogan's umbrella has many emblems upon it.* "Well, do you think you can obtain admission for us?" said I. "Oh! yes; especially if you bring some present with you." "What can we give P we have only a few beads and tobacco with us, and they are not of sufficient value to present to the caboceer as a wedding present." "Never mind their value. It is more for the sake of con. forming to the custom of the country than to enrich Verogan. When we have arrived at our quarters I will return and tell Verogan that you wish to see the marriage." True to his word, Melinda had no sooner seen us safely installed in the house allotted to us by the chief caboceer than he departed fo obtain the desired permission I-Jo soon after returned accompanied by two of Verogan's slaves, bearing a present of a bottle of rum and a quantity of cooked provisions. "Verogan sends his compliments to you," said Melinda, presenting the caboceer's stick to us.t le will be greatly honoured by your company at his wedding. When all is prepared he will send his slaves to fetch you." Having dismissed the messengers with a jorum of rum, we passed away the time until we were sent for by writing up our journals, and packing away our natural history specimens. * This is an allusion to the custom which obtains in Ashanti and Dahomey of each caboceer emblazoning his umbrella with- various devices, each of which commemorates some event in the life of the ownei t Every caboceer and every European factor has a carved stick, which is known as his particular one. When any message is sent from one to the. other, the stick is always sent also, to authenticate the message 238

.4SHANTEE G UNS. Tust after sunset the noise of a band approaching gave us notice that we were about to be summoned to the wedding. Mounting our hammocks, we proceeded at a brisk walk down the road until we arrived at the caboceer's house. There we fbund a troop of fourteen soldiers squatting on the ground and firing off their muskets as quick as they could blaze away their powder. As each gun was loaded almost to bursting, the reports were most deafening, resembling the discharges of ten-pounders rather than muskets. Just as we passed through their line a loud crash on our right caused us to look that way, and we saw the gunner sprawling on the ground, having been knocked down by the recoil of his musket, which had burst from the overcharge, shattering his left hand in a fearful manner. besides badly scorching him. "Here's another patient," said Fortescue, as the unfortunate musketeer waa brought to us by a couple of his comrades, who laid him down at our feet. On examination of the damaged member, we found that, although badly shattered, there was a hope of saving it; so, tearing up a cloth which was given to us by one of the bystanders, we bound up the hand and sent the poor fellow to our house with directions for him to remain there until our return. "So much for selling guns of inferior quality," said Fortescue. "The Birmingham makers, and still more so the vendors of such guns, have a deal to answer for." "There you make a great mistake. No gun, however inferior it may seem, is ever sent out until it has been proved by a test as severe as that which is applied to the very best guns which are sold in the English market." "IndeedI I have always understood that the guns sold to niggers were little better than gas-piping." "Gas-piping, indeed! They are rough it is true, but are made of very good and tough iron." "Well, that is a piece of information, certainly. Then the guns only burst through over-charging ?" 259

SPORT IN ASHANTI. "Just look at that fellow preparing to load. That Will give you an idea of the kind of treatment the guns are subject to." The soldier to whom I had directed Fortescue's attention had drawn a little wooden cup from his cartridge-belt and taken the lid off with his teeth. This was filled with a very coarse-ground powder, in quantity about a teacupful, which he poured down the barrel of his piece, and shook down to the breach by striking the butt end on the ground. "Good heavens! if that is the measure of powder, I would rather they fired it off than I." Cocking his musket, and wiping the flint and striker with the piece of rag hanging to the trigger-guard, the soldier poured out a littlle powder into the pan from a small pouch on his side; and then, holding it to his hip, he discharged it. A perfect roar followed as the powder ignited but slowly, but the recoil was sufficient to send the man staggering to the rear. "Who wouldn't be an Ashantee soldier: but who comes here ?" This remark was occasioned by the approach of a tall man of middle age, dressed in the very extreme of Ashantee fashion. Rings, bracelets, necklaces, anklets, and gauntlets covered him from head to foot, glittering in the light of the large fire, burning at the gate as though he were one of the princes of eastern fable. A. tall head-dress of eagles' plumes nodded over his brow, while the lower edge of his tunic was fringed by a row of small bells. A large breastplate of beaten gold, with a boss in the centre representing the sun, gleamed before him; while a splendidly woven silk toga hung over his left shoulder and dragged upon the ground. He was followed by nearly thirty attendants carrying stools, pipes, swords, shields, and other articles, together with a complete band of all the native instruments, including harps and flutes. "This is Verogan," said Melinda, exchanging compliments with the caboceer, who afterwards snapped fingers with us, and bade us follow him through the outer into the inner courtyard. lere we found a brilliant assemblage. On three sides of the: 240

THE WEDDING FEAST courtyard the umbrellas of all the caboceers of Dedumassie and the neighbouring towns and villages were set up, forming a gorgeous verandah of velvet, silk, and cotton. Beneath these the caboceers were seated, in their gold-bespangled dresses, upon little stools, surrounded by their retinues. In the centre a crowd of slaves, upwards of a hundred in number, were squatting on the ground, keeping guard over the various presents which had been received from the friends of the bride and bridegroom. We were conducted to a large umbrella decorated with scarlet heads upon a bright yellow ground, where we found a small table had been spread with palm-wine and liqueurs for our entertainment. Various bands scattered over the courtyard were making a most discordant din, as each vied with the other in kicking up the biggest row. Soon after our arrival a number of slaves came trooping in, carrying large baskets with calabashes for tops and bottoms, which contained provisions of every conceivable description. Fowls, ducks, pigeons, partridges, turkeys, sheep, goats, pigs, antelopes, elephant flesh, and a kind of rat were dished up either roast, boiled, stewed, or baked, or sometimes all three together. Of course, tables were unknown to the community as necessaries for eating upon, and knives and forks were equally scarce. Notwithstanding the want of these appliances for eating, which are necessities to the civilised, it must not for one moment be imagined that the feast was one whit behind an aldermanic banquet as regards the capabilities of the guests of doing justice to the good fare set before them. Making temporary plates of the plantain envelopes, with which the cankie balls were covered, each caboceer seized the portion he liked best, and appropriated it to himself. Melinda, with unexampled foresight, here produced plates, knives, and forks for each of us, and we were soon following the example of the caboceers around us. "What on earth are those fellows looking at ?" "said Fortescue, It 241

SPORT IN ASHANTI. pointing to a group of slaves who were watching our every movement. "I expect it is quite a novelty to them to see any one eating with a knife and fork. Perhaps they think it a useless piece of trouble to stick one's food on a fork before conveying it to the mouth." "I've no doubt it does seem queer to them; but, halloa! what is that curious affair that old buffer in a suit of whitewash is bringing in ? The " curious affair- referred to was a long iron pole with a large crescent upon the top thickly strung with cowries and daubed with blood. It was carried by a fetiche priest at whose side dangled the usual heterogeneous collection of birds' heads, snakes' skins, leopards' tails, et id genus omne. "That is the fetiche which presides over marriage, I expect. Of course, no ceremony can be complete without the assistance of the clergy." " Certainly not; but I see every one else has finished his feasting, so I suppose there is something else upon the boards." The slaves who had brought in the viands now appeared again and cleared off the remnants. Liquors of all descriptions were then handed round, and the noise of the bands was even more deafening than before. A group of dancing girls then came in and amused /ie company by their corybantic performance for nearly an hour; the ballet being occasionally assisted by the addition of some young men, who vied with the gentler sex in the violence of their motions. "I shouldn't care to be a professional dancer in this country," said Fortescue, as one of the figures, consi-ting of insane endeavours to crack the elbows together behind their backs, was brought to a conclusi&.. "Neither should I. I should think a few months' practice at it would reduce even Daniel Lambert to a respectable size." "Aye! that it would. You may rely upon it that these people are as well up in the art of tormenting themselves with THE BRIDE. what they call pleasure as any civilised nation. If they had to go through an exercise like that for a punishument, I guess there would be a pretty loud outcry." The ballet over, a series of songs were chanted by the various bands, the burden of each being the riches and power of Verogan, and the plumpness and good qualities of the bride. "I suppose all these songs are extempore," said -Fortescue, as Melinda informed us tha they were singing about the honour that accrued to Verogan by the presence of white men at his mnarri age. "Of course; all savages are orators and poets to a certain degree. They can make an extempore stump oration of some hours' length at a stretch, or sing poetry by the mile together if occasion demand it." By this time it was getting near midnight, and we had not yet seen the bride. Presently, however, one of the bamboo doors on the far side of the courtyard opened, and Orizona, accompanied by her slaves, entered upon the scene, escorted by her mother and the senior wife of Verogan. The bride was dressed in a gaily-coloured silk robe with small golden ornaments and a profusion of pomatum disposed in geometric figures on her neck, arms, and ankles. She was apparently not more than seventeen, stouter than the generality of girls of that age, and not by any means bad looking for an Asbantee. Preceded by the first-married (who is always considered the principal) wife of Verogan, Orizona walked up to the place where the caboceer was sitting upon his gold;plated stool surrounded by his retainers; there kneelinig before him she prc. sented him with a bowl of palm-wine of her own making and several dishes of various cooked meat, all specimens of her ability in the culinary art. "The old wife doesn't seem to take it very much to heart about having her nose put out of joint by the new one," said Fortescue. " Oh, dear no!" said I, laughing. "They are brought up to 243

SPORT IN ASHANTI. elpect that sort, of thing, and thiuk no more of it than we do When the baby of the family is superseded by another." The bride then squatted down before her new master, surrounded by the other inmates of the harem. Bands of music then struck up a hideous drumming while the bridegroom partook of the food prepared by his new wife; who, when he had coneluded, was presented with the scraps by her lord. "What a nice sensation such a proceeding would create in tngland!" said Fortescue, laughing "yes. I fancy too it would puzzle some of the young wives also to cook a decent dinner with their own bands. Some of the wiealthy parvenus who live in England, who have made their money by soap-boiling or making boots out of brown paper, think it far beneath their dignity to teach their daughters anything about the domestic responsibilities they take upon themselves when they are married. So long as they can play the piano, jabber Cockney French, and embroider hideous patterns in woolwork, their education is considered to be complete. Their delicate frames were never intended for such drudgery as waiting upon their husbands. Oh, dear no!" The fetiche priest now approached the bride and bridegroom and presented th6m with a powerful juju apiece, which would ensure prosperity and long life to tl-e newly wedded pair The soldiers of the assembled caboceers, then fired a salute, wasting a great quantity of powder, and singeing the persons of their neighbours; and amidst the din the caboceer and his new wife retired. The chief slave or "place" of Verogan then conducted us to the gate, where he delivered us into the care of a company of slaves with lighted torches, who conducted us to our house. "It seems to me that when all the palaver about the price to be paid for the bride is settled between the bridegroom and her parents, there is comparatively little to be done," said Fortescue. ":Exactly so; the difficulty is to arrange the dowry to be given by the bridegroom to the parents of the bride. Of course, the §44

IVA TER v. CARBOLIC .4 CID. more daughters a man has the richer he is; and, as a naturl consequence, he tries to obtain as good a price as he possibly can for them." "Then matchmaking among the Ashantees is quite as serious a business as among Europeans." "Quite as serious; on both sides too, for the more influential a man's fathers-in- law are the greater is his power." In the morning, upon going to our filter, which was always strictly tabooed to all our people, I discovered the drinking-cup had disappeared. On thinking the matter over, I remembered that I had used it for mixing some carbolic acid and water to wash out some of our store-boxes, and had placed it on the back of the filter ready to be cleaned. But where was it now ? There was not a sign of it about the place. I asked Fortescue if he had taken it, and he said that he had not seen it since our arrival. "Depend upon it, some of those fellows have been stealing our water and have stuck to the mug." "Well, the thought now strikes me, that our supply from tho filter has been very short lately. By Jove! I should like to catch one of them with their ugly mugs stuck into our drinking cup. I warrant they would have every reason to remember it to their dying day." While discussing breakfast, Melinda informed us that one of our hammock-men was very ill and wished to see us. "All right; as soon as we have finished our breakfast we will come to him. What is the matter with him ?" "I don't know ; he says lie has pains in his inside." "Pains in his inside. That is all you can get out of any of them. Pains in the inside, no matter what the complaint is; whether asthma or rheumatism." When we had finished our breakfast of roast fowl and boi'ed yam, we went across to the hut where the sick man lay. lie was stretched out on a mat, and was drinking water at a furious rate as we entered. ' Iet me look at your. Qngue?" 8aid Fortescue,

ST ORT IN ASHANTI. The poor wretch put out his tongue, which was completely flayed, as though it had been dipped. in sulphuric acid. "Ha, ha!" said I, as a thought suddenly struck me. "Just breathe in my face, my friend." "'M! i thought so," said I, turning to Fortescue. "Carbolic acid." Giving me a wink, Vortescue proceeded to interrogate the patient as follows:" Have you been eating or drinking anything which has made you ill ?" "No, sir; I've eaten nothing-" "Have you drunk anything P" No. ") "Did you not get any rum at the caboceer's ? "Yes, sir; but it was not that which has made me ill." "How do you know that P" "Rum doesn't make a man ill, it only makes a man's head turn round and round, just so." "Are you quite sure the rum did not make you ill?" "Oh! yes." "Then what else have you taken which could make you ill ?" "Oh! nothing. Oh! dear, I'm so bad! Yegee! Yegec! Oh ! Oh!" "I hope you did not take anything out of our room ? "Oh! no. Oh! dear. Yegee! Yegee!" groaned he in agony, while he turned as pale as it was possible for one of his cem. plexion to look. "You are quite sure?" "Ye-es !" with another groan. "I hope you did not take anything out of that iron cup which lay on the filter?" "Oh! no; I did not go into your room yesterday. Oh! dear!" "That is well; because if you had tasted anything out of that cup there is no hope for you, you must surely die after it." With this, the patient set up such a yelling and howling, as the tears streamed down his face, that both Fortescue and I 246

11E THIEF DISCO VEleED. were obliged to turn our heads away to prevent the bystanders from seeing our fruitless endeavours to control our laughter. "Oh! dear. Oh! I shall die. Oh! Oh!" groaned the man. " You are sure you didn't take anything out of that cup?" "Oh! yes; I think I took a little." "Ah! then," said Fortescue, gravely shaking his head, "I'm afraid their is no help for you. That mug contained a strong poison." Thereupon almost every one present set up a yell, thus plainly showing us that nearly all had helped themselves from our filter. They crowded round us with breathless anxiety, as iFortescue continued to examine the delinquent, whose pilfering had resulted in his severely burning his throat with carbolic acid. ", Oh! dear. What shall I do? Yegee! Oh!" Similar cries and groans continued without intermission for more than five minutes; until Fortescue, discerning that the man's fright was sufficiently severe, took up his band, and gravely feeling his pulse, said, "Alt I think I may, perhaps, get you over it this once; but if ever you take a drop more it will be all over with you. No. thing on earth can save you." "Oh! dear, I'm so bad!" groaned the poor wretch, whose mouth and throat must have occasioned him considerable pain. "Well," continued Fortescue, "you take the medicine I will send you; but mind it will be a very near squeak with you." Thereupon we returned to our quarters, where 1?ortescue mixed a powerful aperient, which he directed the sick man to take at once. It is almost needless to say that we never had occasion to lock up our filter after the dire effects its contents had upon any person drinking therefrom, who did not understand the difference between carbolic acid and water. 247

CHAPTER XIII. ELEPHANT( AGAIX-NARROW ESCAPE OF BEING RUN DOWN-A THICK ZUNGT X -FEARFUL PERIL-A GOOD DAY'S SPORT--NEARLY KILLED BY A DEAD ELEPHANT-ELEPHANT COOKERY-LION HUNTING-ADVENTURE WITH A PYTHON-A CROCODILE HUNT-I AM NEARLY BITTEN BY A SNAKE. AFTER leaving Dodumassie, we journeyed northwards for several days, meeting with various success in hunting as we hastened to get into the elephant ground. One morning, when we were busily clearing off the scraps from the bones of a fine young gazelle, which we bad shot the (lay before, Melinda said that he had news to give us. "Well, let us hear it, for we are anxious for s3mething to whet our appetites for sport." "Yesterday, as I was out scouting to the right of our path, I came across the tracks of some elephants." "Elephants! That's the style. Where did you see them? Why d0id you not tell us at once P" "You Englishmen are too hasty, you wish to choke Melinda's words down his throat before he has time to utter them." "Oh ! never mind my hastiness, Melinda ; let's know all about the elephants." "I followed up the trail for some distance, until I could reckon there were nine elephants, eight cows and one bull." " Glorious! I hope we shall come across them to-day." ELEPHANTS AGAIN. "Early this morning, before you were awake, I told Aziza what I had seen, and he started off to find out the elephants. But just now one of his men returned to say that they were feeding about three miles away to the rising sun." "That's capital! We'll have elephant foot for supper to-night, Melinda, or I'll forfeit my best gun." "You will be able to keep your gun, for we are sure to get one elephant, at least. Surely five hunters are capable of killing one between them." Hastily finishing our repast we carefully examined our largest guns, and started off for the elephant ground. "Elephant hunting here is rather different to that sport in South Africa," said Fortescue. "Yes. There you have a good horse under you to help you out of your difficulties, but here all depends upon your aim and nimbleness on your feet." Keeping a bright look-out all round, we trudged merrily along the path faintly indicated by the tracks of the naked feet of the messenger who had been sent by Aziza to give us notice of the discovery of the elephants. For more than an hour we marched steadily on, keeping up only a low conversation, so as not to disturb the huge beasts in case they might be feeding near us. Suddenly Aziza stood before us, almost startling us by the spectre-like manner in which lie stepped out from behind a large tree, where he had been standing awaiting our approach. "Well, Aziza, have you seen the game ?" asked Fortescue. "Hush! Elephants have long ears. They are feeding just beyond that clump of trees on the top of that rising ground." "Let us have a final look at our weapons, and then hurrah for the ivory." After slowly creeping up the slope we came upon the spoor or tracks of the huge beasts, but when we arrived at the summit not a single elephant was to be seen. "Halloa! where's our game ?" said Fortescue excitedly. "Hush! my dear fellow, I shall never mako an elephant hunter 249

SPORT IN ASHANTI. of you if you talk so loud. A dumb man is the best companion for a true hunter to have." Melinda, meanwhile, seeing the position of affairs, had sent a party of seven men round to a thicket on our left, with-orders to drive the elephants out if they saw anything of them. Soon after we heard several shots fired, but not seeing anything of the beasts we thought they had gone the other way, and aceordingly started in pursuit. Just as we entered the thickest part of the junge a warning cry from Aziza put us on the alert, as thundering and crashing down the trees in our very faces we met the whole herd coming full tilt upon us, making the earth itself tremble beneath their ponderous tread. Our position was not a very enviable one, as we hurried away to the nearest shelter. The bushes, which were mere threads of gossamer to the elephants, formed serious obstacles to us, and we effected our escape with considerable difficulty, the rankness of the undergrowth being almost as insurmountable as the bushes themselves. "By George, we were nearly being run down," said Fortescue, as we gained the shelter of a large umbrella-tree. "Aye, it would not have taken one of those fellows long to have made a jelly of either of us. But where have they gone to ?" Emerging from our retreat in rear of the elephants, I made after a solitary bull which I espied a little separated from the rest of the herd. iFortescue, however, hearing shots from the direction of the main body, continued to follow them up, leaving me to follow my game alone. The trail led across the open savannah, where the elephants had first beendescried by Aziza, and plunged into the thicket beyond. After following it for nearly a mile further, the forest became so dense that I could not penetrate it eacept by following the path made by the retreating beast. This was not a very pleasant predicament., for I knew that when his first fears were over, he would very likely take the back track, and so meet me enclosed 250

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A DEAD SHOT.2 between the impenetrable walls of the forest. If I missed my aim, there was the certainty of being either fatally crushed beneath the knees of the enraged brute, or of being beaten to death by his trunk. Thus I was reluctantly obliged to give up the chase, and began to thread my way down the path, which was distinctly to be traced, looking as if it had been cut with an axe. As I neared the open part I was rejoiced to see four elephants coming right across the plain, and making for the very spot where I stood. From their heated and blown appearance, I concluded they were part of the herd we had started from the opposite thicket. Looking carefully to my gun I awaited their approach, and when they were within a hundred yards I shouted to turn them on one side, and thus enable me to get a fair shot. Owing probably to my stationary attitude they did not appear to discover me, and it was only by throwing my arms alout, and waving my hat that I caught their attention. Then giving vent to their peculiar trumpeting, and flapping their huge ears, they slightly altered their course, and gave me the desired opportunity. Taking careful aim at the foremost elephant, a well-directed shot just above the eye in the left temple, brought her to the ground with a crash. Her companions, alarmed at the noise of my gun, and with their sagacity connecting it with the fall of their comrade, charged at random in every direction, with trunks aloft, and their little tails sticking up in a most ludicrous fashion. Then returning to their prostrate comrade, they gently touched her with their trunks, and partly raised her with their trunks, as if to rouse her and induce her to accompany them in their flight. Such a sight was enough to touch the heart of any man possessed of the slightest spark of kindly feeling. Meanwhile I had reloaded, and the troop, finding that their comrade did not respond to their solicitations, moved off and entered the thicket to the right of the path made by the elephant I had followed, 251

SPORT IN ASHANTI. Wahting till they had fairly entered the thicket, I followed, and had advanced about a couple of hundred yards when 1 came full butt upon a single elephant, which I recognised as the one I had first gone after by a brown mark ol his left ear His ears were twitching, and his tail jerking in a peculiar spasmodic manner, which plainly indicated that he meant mischief. I prepared for a shot, when he turned tail and followed the re. treating herd. I went on after him, and was gaining upon the troop, when the bull turned and charged me. This same manoeuvre was repeated until it was plain that I must first kill this one if I wished to get at the others. I therefore made all ready for a shot, and kept coolly on when he came dashing towards me uttering a fearful Cr'. To mv horror my rifle missed fire, thus leaving me standing helplessly in a narrow lane betwixt two impenetrable walls of jungle staring death itself in the face. At this critical moment I despaired of life, never for one moment expecting that I should escape that fearful charge alive. Presence of mind, however, assisted by an unusual amount of firmness, saved me in this juncture. I felt that my only chance depended upon my reloading as quickly as possible. My rifle was a Sneider, and I opened the breach :,and replaced the faulty cartridge with a new one. Meanwhile, on came the furious beast, and already it was within a few yards of me. I felt that I had but a single chance for life, and that I held it in my hand as it were. Providence directed my aim, as with the courage of despair I placed the gun to my shoulder, and awaited the headlong rush of the beast. With my gun to my shoulder, and my finger on the trigger, I could not bring the weapon to a steady line, for my limbs shook with excitement. Still on came the elephant, his trunk stretched high overhead, and his head held erect, thus cutting off every chance of a good place wherein to plant a bullet. The trumpeting had ceased, and a series of snorting grunts 2 52

A NARROWTf ESCAP. had taken its place, which might well be likened to a shout of triumph as he looked down upon the puny enemy which would soon be clutched by his powerful trunk and crushed to a jelly beneath his ponderous knees. Just at this crisis he lowered his trunk for an instant, thus exposing his forehcad. The single instant was enough, however, for me to take aim, and pulling trigger I sent a bullet crashing through his skull, while the ponderous beast fell down at my very feet, striking me to the earth with his trunk in his fall. For a moment I hardly knew whether I was saved or not, until finding the huge mass near me did not move, I plucked up courage and regained my feet, now the danger was over, trembling like an aspen. Reloading my gun I prepared to follow the retreating herd, whose crashing through the forest could still be heard, but just at this moment Fortescue and A ziza came up, having been attracted by my shots. They had been more fortunate than I, for they had succeeded in killing three, one bull and two cows, while Melinda had gone after another which he had wounded. We at once determined to go after the others, and therefore took the broad path which they had made with their ponderous bodies. On coming up with them we each singled out our game, and succeeded in dropping two. The third, which was Fortescue's beast, although badly hit, was still charging recklessly about, when a bullet from my rifle fortunately broke his hind leg, and he came to a stand still. After receiving another shot from Fortescue, he fell apparently dead, and Fortescue mounting his back gave vent to a war whoop which very nigh proved his last. The dying beast gave a convulsive throe, and brought his trunk down on the very spot where Fortescue had just stood, nearly dashing out his brains. Then, tottering on his feet, he made frantic efforts to get away, rocking from side to side, and stumbling over the clumps of brushwood at every step. His trumpeting still continued as loud and defiant as before, and it was not

SPORT IN ASHANT1. until he had received thirteen more shots that he uttered his death groan and fell dead. "I'll never mount a dead elephant again until I'm sure he's killed," said Fortescue. "Yes, you had a narrow shave, I can tell you," said I. "No man should go near an elephant until be has uttered his death groan," said Aziza. " Sometimes they are only shamming, and will crush a man to death after they have fallen apparently lifeless." "It i. ill be a lesson to me at any rate. 1 felt the wind of the brute's trunk as it swung close by my car. Ughl! it would have been the last sound I ever heardl if it, had struck me." Meanwhile, a number of our reen ha]d come up, and were busily engaged in cutting out the ivory and tecth. Niesseiigcrs had been despatched to bring up the camp; and when we emerged into the open prairie, we saw the smoke of our fires over the tree-tops on the hillside above us. "I don't know how you feel, Danvers, but I am rather peckish. It is now past four o'clock, and we've not tasted a bit since just after daylight. I propose we adjourn to yonder smoke and emulate the fires with our pipes while our dinner is conking." ,-With all my heart. Nevertheless, I think we hal better postpone the eating of the elephant foot till morning. It will be prime by that time." Making our way to the camp, we were heartily glad to throw ourselves into our hammocks and enjoy a quiet smoke, while sundry elephant rashers and steaks from the eland were sputtering on peeled sticks before our fires. Soon after Melinda came in, followed by two of his people carrying two immense tusks. "Well, old fellow," said iFortescue, "did you skin the elephant as you did the antelopes ?" "I did," said Melinda, with considerable gravity. " What is the use of paying heavily for fetiche if we do not carry out our instructions?" After a hearty meal we gathered round the blazing fire and

"TO COOK ELEPHANTS' .POOT"5 spun a few yarns, when, thoroughly tired out with the day's sport, we turned in and slept the sleep of labour, During the night we were plagued by a lion roaring round the camp, probably attracted by the smell of blood, but although we were aroused several times, we did not get a chance to obtain a shot at it. In the morning we saw his tracks all round the camp, and discovered that he had followed the trail of Melinda and his people for nearly three miles on the night before. We were up betimes, and paid a visit to the spot where I had shot my first elephant the day before. The ground was covered with the tracks of innumerable beasts, principally hyanas, which had almost picked the bones of the elephant clean. Several vultures sat perched upon the tops of the nearest trees, eyeing us with a very unwelcome glance, as we disturbed them from their gluttony. The work of cutting out the tusks of the elephants we had shot occupied us nearly the whole day, for the job is by no means so easy as one would imagine. The spongy bone in which the tusks are imbedded has to be chopped off after they are cut out, except when the camp is to remain stationary for a few days, when they are allowed to remain in situ, and can then be withdrawn easily, and without injury, from their sockets. Our breakfast was composed wholly of elephant meat. The Etaple dish was the foot. A description of its mode of cooking may perhaps interest our lady readers. The foot is cleanly cut off, leaving a joint much about the size of a Cheshire cheese. The skin is left loose round the cut off portion, and neatly folded over. If possible, a lid of well-kneaded clay is put on over this, and then the joint is ready for cooking A large fire is made, and when a heap of red-hot ashes have accumulated, a hole is scraped in them, and the foot placed in it, after which the ashes are piled up around and above it. In about eight hours it is done to a turn, and the lid of clay being taken off, a joint from which a score of hearty men might dine is dis. played. 255

SPORT IN ASHANTI The meat has much the appearance of the inside of a pork pie, being white, crisp, and grizzly, with streaks of fat running through it. Although so rich, it never palls upon the palate as a pork pie will, and a hungry man will eat an enormous quantity without feeling surfeited. This famous joint, added to a piece of the trunk and cheek, made a breakfast at which even a London alderman would not have turned up his nose. The next day we moved on our camp to the margin of a small lake, which abounded in alligators and a species of mullet. The latter were caught by a kind of snare made of the fibres of the leaves of the pineapple, which, when newly picked out, is very elastic, something like fine horsehair. The surface of the lake swarmed with hundreds of waterfowl of every description. Ibis, flamingoes, ducks, kingfishers, and a dozen others were seen flying about in all directions, or floating on the surface. As one of our people was baling out water from the lake an immense alligator rose out from the depths just in front of him. So terrified was the fellow that he dropped the calabash and fell into the water. Luckily the alligator took a fancy to the calabash, which was floating on the surface, and after snapping it up, made off, leaving the frightened negro to ecramble ashore and run shriek. ing with terror into the camp. We found on looking round the edges of the lake many spoor of lions, elephants, elands, and other beasts, and Fortescue and I therefore resolved to resort there at night, in the hope to kill one of the lions as it came down either to drink or waylay some other animal. Accordingly, before n'ghtfill I went out to knock over -otno animal to lay as a bait to attract their for it is a mistake to imagine that the king of beasts will only touch meat of his own killing. I discovered a tree with a convenient resting place for myself and rifle, while a second fork close by served as a shooting-box for, Fortescue. 256

A TROOP OF L.ONS. I succeeded in killing an antelope, something 1ike a koodoo, which I dragged up to within a dozen yards of our hiding-placc, having first cut off the head as a trophy. Aziza had determined upon another spot to watch for the great cat; and, although I thought he had made a mistake, it appeared in the issue that his hunter's instinct was greater than mine, for soon after we had taken up our stations at nightfall, I observed some large beast crouching towards his post, and ere I could cry out to warn him, the crack of his rifle was heard. The animal he fired at, whatever it was, did not move, but to my surprise three lions, which had been lying concealed within a few yards of him, now rose to their feet, and thus completely surrounded him. At the same time I noticed three other lions approaching from different directions towards the antelope lying near my hidingplace. Taking careful aim I let drive at the nearest, as Aziza's gun rang out upon the still air. A fearful roar from the lion near Aziza's hiding-place told that his shot had reached its mark; but the glimmering moonlight had so balked my aim that I missed my mark altogether. Fortescue, likewise, did not succeed in landing his ball, and the lions not seeming inclined to beat a retreat we reloaded, and taking careful aim again fired, and this time with better success, for the foremost lion stumbled forward, and after a few convulsive struggles lay stretched out dead. The others, apparently not liking to see their comrade fall, took to their heels, and bounded off much to my relief, for I was getting anxious lest all our ammunition should get expended, and we be kept prisoners until morning, or perhaps later. The troop did not, however, go very far, for we heard them quarrelling and tearing at the carcass of a buffalo, which had apparently died of disease or old age, we had noticed lying by the edge of the lake, about a couple-of hundred yards away. Having satiated their appetites, they again approached, but they seemed to have a vivid recollection of the very warm 257

SPOR T ZN A SHA NT reception they had met with in our neighbourhood, as they halted before coming within range, and deafened us with their roaring. Another lion was also heard approaching from the hills to the north-east, so that there appeared to be no scarcity of game. Meanwhile, troop after troop of animals of different kinds were continually coming down to the lake to drink, and, during our besiegement in our trees by the lions, by the most moderate computation, more than a thousand animals came down to quench their thirst. The water of the pool was in one continuous commotion, the din of clattering hoofs, the splashing of water, the lowing of buffalo, and the snorting and sniffing of other creatures being mingled together into a perfect chaos of sound. "What a glorious sight!" said Fortescue, as we peered out at the motley throng from our leaty hiding-place. "How different these creatures look when seen in their native haunts to what they do when cribbed, cabined, and confined within the iron bars of a menagerie !" "I have always felt a pity for the poor brutes shut up in their narrow cages. The lion in a den is a very different animal to the same creature when alone in the forest." "Yes; and no one can imagine what a terrible beast a lion can be if he draws his conclusions from the emasculated creatures one sees in a menagerie. I know, for my part, a lion as far exceeds any ideas of him, as does the sight of the boundless ocean surpass any preconceived notion of it." The next evening we again took up our stations, this time in pits which had been dug for us. We had hoped to bag some lions, but, to our great disappointment, none came. Probably they had been scared by our fire on the previous night. The number of antelopes, springbok, hartebest, and other animals of a like nature, was undiminished, however, and upon one occasion, when a row of springbok were drinking side-byside, the nearest being only a few feet from the muzzle of my gun, which was loaded with a heavy charge of powder, and a thre9 258 AN ALLIGA TOR E.4 TTUE. ounce conical bullet, I fired, and the ball passed clean through four, and lodged in the body of a fifth. After that I had a very considerably enlarged idea of the penetrating powers of a ball when driven by a strong charge of powder The same afternoon I was out looking for coleoptera in a thicket close by our camp, when I was startled upon finding that I was just about to turn over a large python coiled up in a heap. Stepping back, with a shudder, I drew out my revcolver, and shot the reptile through several folds, complctely severing the vertebrm in three places, as I afterwards discovered. Notwithstanding this, it raised the fore part of its body and snapped at everything within reach, darting its head at me, and clashing its teeth with a horrible noise until I gave it a quietus with the handle of my net-stick. Several of our people coming up at the same time, thev were delighted when I gave them the snake, which they consider a great delicacy, and I Ihave not the least doubt that it is very tender, but the sight of the great reptile writhing and full of life, even when divested of its skin, was enough to make one recoil with horror and disgust. The enormous stretching capacity of these reptiles is somvthing marvellous. I have often seen one with a goat in its inside, the whole creature looking very much like a time-ball when halfway up its pole, so great was the distention of the stomazh. In such cases they are easily killed, since they are almost incapabio of motion. Before leaving the pond we had a regular crocodile hrnt, as tin water in the lake was very low, and in some parts flato mud islets appeared, which would be several feet under water in the rainiy seasou. Our men were posted all round the lake at fixed distances apart, while Sackie and two other boys paddled about on a raft rudely constructed out of three logs. I could scarcely have imagined that such an enormous qnqntity pf crocodiles could have existed in such a snmil space. 259

SPORT IN ASHANTI. Upon a mud bank about thirty yards from the shore, a hundred crocodiles, at least, were huddled together. Some were nearly twenty feet long, and they ranged from that size to only three feet. They lay in patches, basking in the sun, and the musky exhalation from them could be smelt for several yards around. I was anxious to get a large one fbr the sake of his head as a specimen, and among such a multitude was inclined to be fastidious, when I espied an aged saurian, who appeared to have been the very one which came out of the ark, so rugged were his scales, and so jagged were his enormous teeth. Taking a deliberate aim at this aged patriarch I fired, and was delighted to see that my bullet had taken effect. Such a splashing and spluttering as succeeded my shot, however, was not merely ludicrous, but even alarming, as the whole array of crocodiles began hurrying and scurrying to the water. The old brute I had bit had not been killed by my shot, and by the time I had walked round to his side of the pool, he was plunging about in the mud in frantic efforts to reach the water. A second bullet, however, through the eye settled him, and he was triumphantly dragged ashore by our people, who made charms out of his scales. We killed upwards of thirty crocodiles in this day's sport, and ere we left the spot the next day the stench from their decomposing bodies was unbearable. That same night there was great rejoicing in our camp, for the Ashantees are by no means fastidious in their tastes, and a newly killed alligator steak is considered by them to be rather a delicacy than otherwise. Mfelinda and Aziza did not join in the hunt, as they wished to make some repairs in their arms and ammunition traps. Besides which, as Fortescue remarked to me, skinning an .alligator would be rather a tough job for Melinda if he succeeded in killing one. In the morning I had a very narrow escape of my life. My 26o

A SNAKE AD VENTURE. hammock was slung up between two young trees, with the tent covering over it to keep off the dew. I had stepped out of it, and was turning over my blankets when I felt myself standing upon something soft and slippery. On looking down I discovered, to my horror, that I was standing on an enormous black snake, nearly eight feet long, which was coiling itself round my boots, and striking at them with its fangs, which, luckily for me, were unable to penetrate them. I started on one side with considerable agility, as may well be imagined, but my foot sIipped on the smooth surface, and I wellnigh fell to the ground. As it was, in trying to keep myself up, I stepped three or four times on the snake, thus making matters worse than before. In vain did I endeavour to step free from the enveloping coils of the reptile. Jump and kick as I would I could not get clear, until fairly alarmed, I gave vent to a loud shriek, made a desperate effort, and got clear. How I escaped being bitten is more than I could tell, for the snake kept continually making feints at me. Probably it was nothing but my continual motion that saved me. Once clear, however, all fear of the reptile left me, and I soon despatched him to the other world of snakes by a smart blow with a stick. This species is one of the deadliest in Western Africa. It frequents trees, especially on hilly or mountainous districts, the inhabitants of which have a very great dread of it. The fangs were taken out by our people, and carefully tied up in bits of rag, which were hung round the necks of the lucky possessors, for it is a well-known fact, at least to all Ashantees, that the wearer of the fangs of the black snake can never be poisoned. After this adventure I trod upon a scorpion when in my slippers, and only escaped being stung by the fact of the reptile striking a knot in the leather thong which fastened them on to my feet 261

262 SPORT IN A SHANTI. Early in the afternoon we packed up our traps and moved off towards the north- east. We were now on the very confines of the kingdom of Ashanti, and, ere we encamped for the night, had crossed a small affluent of the Afun River, which is the nominal boundary of the territory of the dreaded Koffee Kalcalli.

CHAPTER XIV. A RHEUMATIC PATIENT--A MAN BEWITCHED-MALIGNANT CRUELTY OF FETICHISM--A MURDER THROUGH WITCHCRAFT-DEATH OF OVENGA -NIGHT IN THE FOREST-AN UNFORTUNATE BUFFALO-VENOMOUS SPIDERS -CHIMPANZEE HUNTING--WE NEARLY LOSE OUR PREY- WHAT IS A CRAB ?-MONKEY VERSUS BABY-A SCALY MANIS-I DISCOVER A CAVE-STALACTITES-HORRIBLE MEETING WITH A PYTHON. THE next day we arrived at the banks of the river on whose further side the chimpanzee was to be found. Although we had passed beyond the confines of the Ashanti kingdom, yet the terrible name of Koffee Kalcalli was feared as that of an inhuman monster. There was a very pretty little village on the banks of the river where we crossed, surrounded by a dense forest, in whose depths the man-like ape was known to dwell. As we were in need of a little relaxation, we determined to remain at the village until the next day, although it was only ten o'clock in the morning when we arrived. After breakfast Fortescue and I took our nets and went through the village to the plantation beyond, where we intended to catch a few butterflies to add to our collection; while so engaged, we were startled by an unearthly cry proceeding from the village, and, in great doubt as to its origin, we hastily returned, fearing lest some of our people had got into trouble.

SPORT IN ASHANTI Our alarm, however, was needless; it appeared that one of the villagers had been very ill with rheumatism for some time, and, in spite of all that the doctors could do, the man gradually be. came worse, and his friends feared he would die. At last in despair the fetiche-man, for in Africa the fetieheman is always the doctor, gave out that Ovenga, that was the man's name, was not sick at all, but was inhabited by a witch which had been sent to dwell with him by an enemy. At this announcement there was a great uproar. Who could have sent the witch ? What enemy had possessed sufficient influence with the spirit world to procure a witch to come and live in Ovenga? Of course the onus of finding out the delinquent lay with the fetichist. All the villagers were summoned to parade before the fetiche-man's hut, who sat with his back turned towards them, but the villagers passed between the priest and the sun, so tha-t their shadows were cast on the ground be. fore him. One by one they trooped behind the juju-man, each dreading }est the awful sentence should be pronounced upon him. Suddenly with a fearful cry the fetichist leaped up, and laid his hands upon a youth who was passing at the moment. That awful yell rea-ched us, and when we hurried up to the spot a crowd-bad collected round the doonted young man, who appeared to be f~r the moment overcome with the fearful position in which he so -suddenly found himself. The excitement of the people had reached a fearful pitch; old and young, mgaJe and female, were frantic with desire to revenge themselves on the sorcerer who had sent the witch into their fellow-vilager. In order to verify the fact of the right person being discovered, the doctor, followed by the whole crowd, went to the open street which led down to the river, and which, by its width and the fact of its having a large fig-tree in the centre, which thus thre-w an extensive shadow around, offered the best place for carrying out the incantations necessary to discover and prove the guilt of the sorcerer. 64

A WITCHI DISCOVERED. Every man,, woman, and child bad armed themselves, some with spears, others with guns, swords, or axes, and on every face a firm determination was stamped to wreak a bloody vengeance on their comrade, with whom perhaps an hour before they veic on the most intimate terms of friendship. "What a dreadful state of existence where one is liable to be charged with bewitching a comrade, and so suddenly despatched to eternity !" "The whole population of Africa is more or less under the influence of the fetiche priests," said I; "witchcraft in its most cruel forms exists all over the country, and if any person has any desire to wreak his vengeance upon any enemy, he has only to accuse him of bewitching him, and his revenge is swift and sure. Too often a desire to possess the property of another is the incentive to the accusation, and, in short, the fearful punishment which ever follows the accusation if it can be proved is often made use of to gratify the most unholy desires." "How terrible! how fearful to contemplate I Who could imagine that any people possessed of the smallest amounL of intelligence would submit to such an awful ordeal!" "Superstition will bring about a state of things such as no one would conceive to be possible. Would that we could save the poor wretch, but I fear it is impossible.' "If we were to attempt a rescue we should cut off all chance of our return to the Coast, for the whole country would be up in arms against us, urged on by the fetiche priests." Meanwhile the whole village was rapt in an indescribable fury and horrible thirst for human blood. In vain did Fortescue and I, through the medium of Aziza and Melinda, endeavour to get a bearing; although we offered to give medicine to the sick man if they would permit us, not the slightest heed was paid to our request. Their blood was up, and nothing would satisfy their inhuman cruelty but the sacrifice of their comrade. Sick at heart at the dreadful state of affairs, iFortescue and I remained silent, but stood near to witness the carrying out of the awful sentence 265

SPORT IN ASHANTI. All at once the fetichist raised his hand and waved it towards the accused. The clamorous hubbub was at once hushed, and the doctor in a very monotonous voice called out,"There is a small red stone with a white streak upon it which will be found in the house of the person who bewitched Ovenga. Go and seek it." The tumultuous crowd rushed with perfectly demoniacal noises to the house of the accused, where, as we only too well knew, the stone was discovered by the excited throng. "I suspect the fetiche priest planted that stone before he ac. cused the poor young fellow," said Fortescue. "To be sure he did; I've no doubt he has some grudge against him, and uses this method to satisfy his revenge." The maddened crowd then surrounded their victim, who was quickly bound with grass rope and thrown down before the doctor. The awful predicament in which he so suddenly found himself appeared to have hitherto paralysed the energies of the accused, who up to this time had remained passive in the hands of his tormentors; now, however, be appeared to be alive to his situation, and struggled violently to burst his bonds, and appealed loudly for help. Suddenly turning towards the place where Fortescue and I stood, he called out, "White men, white men I Oh! do not see me die. Will you not save me ? I am innocent-I did not bewitch Ovenga. Ovenga is my friend, why should I send the devil into him ? Oh! save me, save me! " It was a moment of terrible agony to both of us. Fortescue was about to make a rush into the crowd of laughing, dancing demons in a well-intentioned but insane attempt to rescue the victim. I restrained him however, saying, "It will not be of the slightest use,-we should only expose ourselves to the enmity of the j uju-man, without being of any service to the poor wretch. Alas! we cannot interfere." 266

THE ORDEAL BY POISON Again did the fetiche doctor raise his hand, and silence fell upon the multitude. "Ovenga is a great man; he has many wives and plenty of children. Rampano (the accused) envied him; he had only one wife and only one child, therefore he bewitched Ovenga." The excited crowd, with flaming eyes, shouted at the concla. sion, and appeared to be on the point of wreaking their vengeance upon Rampano upon the spot. The feticlie-man then continued,"Did not Rampano carry salt to Ovenga yesterday ? Is not this true ?" "Yes, yes, we saw him carry salt to Ovenga yesterday; the salt was bewitched, IRampano had bewitched it," cried out several voices. Then rising from the crouching position in which he had hitherto remained, he accused 1ampano of bewitching Ovenga, and defied him to deny the truth of his words. Whatever the poor wretch might have said in refutation of his accusation, it was drowned in the shrieks and yells of the furious throng, who were leaping and throwing themselves about like so many devils in a fit. The most fearful curses were heaped upon the head of the victim; even his own brothers and parents joined to revile him, and there appeared to be the greatest rivalry as to who could most insult and abuse the poor wretch, perhaps fearful lest if any were suspected of lukewarmness they would be exposed to a similar fate. At a signal from the doctor, the victim was dragged in the most cruel manner down to the water's edge, a canoe was launched, and the accused hurried on board, followed by the feticheer and a number of armed men. Drums were beaten, horns blown with a death-bearing sound, and the fetichist's assistant was seen hurrying along with a calabash filled with a poisonous draught. "What ! is the poor wretch going to be poisoned?" said Fortescue, horror struck. "I expect he will be compelled to drink the poison, and if he does not immediately succumb he will be considered 67

SPORT IN ASHANT. to have proved his guilt, while if he dies, then his innocence is established." "What a terrible alternative ! It means death whichever way the verdict is given." The poor wretch on catching sight of the poisoned cup turned away with a very perceptible shudder, whi# a deadly pallor overspread his countenance, rendering it perfectly livid; while his lips were of a deathly hue. The poisoned cup was then handed to the poor victim, who at first refused to drink it, but the points of a score of spears were held to his breast by as many yelling savages, and thus, driven to extremities, he swallowed the nauseous draught. In a few seconds he began to stagger, while the excited multi. tude danced and yelled more furiously than ever. Suddenly he fell down in the canoe, and began to utter the most piteous moans. "He has confessed!" cried the multitude, and scarcely were the words out of his lips than the luckless victim was raised from the bottom of the canoe, and his head hacked off by a score of knives. The fearful consummation over, the crowd returned to the figtree, where they commenced dancing and singing round the dead body of their victim upon which the fetiche-man was sitting, his glory considerably increased at the discovery of the person who had bewitched Ovenga. Saddened and depressed, Fortescue and I left the murderous scene and returned to our huts, there to meditate upon the awful consequences which follow hand in haidl with super. stition. In the night we were aroused by the mournful wailings of Ovenga's wives, who were lamenting the death of their husband. In spite of the exorcism of the witch, which had been carried out with so much bloodshed, Ovenga had died, and as we left the village the death drums were being beaten, and his relations were assembling to hold a wake over his remains. 268

A4 NOCTURNAL AD VENTURE. We encamped for the night on the edge or an extensive prairie, on the far side of which the much dreaded chimpanzee waa known to dwell. After supper I walked out for a short d.itance into the prairie, which was lit up by a brilliant moon, in hopes of being able to shoot something or other. The edges of the open space were covered with the gigantic structures of the white ant, and behind one of these I sat down and waited. The dark shadows of the forest behind me, through which the faint glimmer of our watch-fires could be distinguished, formed a gloomy background to the moon-lit prairie; tJle lowing of the wild buffalo, the growl of the leopard, and other sounds broke upon the stillness at intervals, while the sighing of the breeze as it rustled through the leaves of the forest seemed like the pass. ing of a spirit. For more than hour I continued my watch, my ears painfully acute to that iiidescribable medley of sounds, which so eloquently tells of that life which awakens in the forest at the going down of the sun. A cracking as of the footsteps of some huge beast walking over the fallen limbs of the forest would now attract my atten. tion, while, a few minutes after, the swishing sound of the passage of some animal through the long grass would put me on the alert ; the grunt of a wild pig in the search for edible roots often fell upon the ear, and once I fancied that I could detect the finely cut heads of a herd of gazelles as they passed me in the de. ceptive moonlight. Still nothing appeared worthy of my gun, and as I gazed at the pale stars shining down upon me with their cold clear light, my thoughts wandered far away from the wilds of Africa to that fi distant home in England which held all that was near and dear to me upon earth. Suddenly I was startled from my reverie by an unearthly roar, -a yell-a cry as of some animal in mortal agony. I started to my feet, and looked hurriedly around into the moon-lit prairie, but saw nothing. Again did the awful roar of 269

SPORT IN ASHANTI deadly pain break upon the stillness, apparently coming from the forest to my left. Then a dull booming growl, succeeded by a loud roar, revealed to me that, without a doubt, some animal had fallen a victim to the cruel fangs of a leopard. I left the shadow of the ant-hill and advanced in the direction of the sound, determined, if possible, to witness the struggle. Again did the awful sound send a thrill of terror through my veins as I gained the shelter of the forest. An opening some short distance beyond induced me to advance, and, on gaining the edge, I saw scudding across the open patch a large buffalo, upon whose neck was crouched, with teeth and talons deeply buried in the quivering flesh, what I knew to be the leopard whose roar I had heard. Vainly did the tortured animal toss his head wildly from side to side, in vain did he rear and plunge, roar and bellow, and dash madly about; blind with terror it kept moving round in a series of circles, and at length, goaded to madness, it rushed off at a tangent and dashed itself against a tree, stumbling to its knees with the recoil. Again did it struggle to its feet, and, strengthened by the extreme anguish with which it was tortured, it again rushed wildly about. Suddenly the suffering animal made a dash straight for the spot whereon I stood; my gun was instantly at my shoulder, Ond, waiting a good opportunity, I fired. As the smoke cleared away, I saw the leopard bounding off through the moon-lit glades, while the buffalo lay dead at my feet. Five fearful wounds in the neck and shoulders showed where the bloodthirsty monster had clutched with cruel talons into the living flesh of his victim while he sucked out the lifeblood from a ghastly wound in the neck. R1'loading my gun, I left the carcase to the hymnas and the vulturcs and made straight for camp, which was in au uproar, in consequence of an inroad of driver ants; having removed out of their way, we slept soundly under the bright sky until the 270

A CHIMPANEE FO UND. beams of the rising sun again roused us to further adventures. Scarcely had we begun to stir ourselves than we beard a sharp cry from one of the men, who was out gathering wood, and in a few moments he was brought into us by his comrades; he had been bitten by one of the immense yellow-striped spiders, which are so plentiful in all African woods and glades; the offender in this instance bad a body as large as a sparrow's egg, with legs stretching over an expanse six inches in diameter at the least. T ey are very dangerous if the person bitten is at all enfeebled by fever, when the bite not unfrequently proves fatal. After breakfast we started out in different directions on the look-out for chimpanzees; this animal has a wider range than the other anthropomorphous apes, being found from the Gambia down to the most southerly Portuguese settlement of St. Philip de Benguela. Like the gorilla and ourang-outang, it is solitary, and, as it only exists in the densest woods, its hunting is attended with extreme difficulty. For several hours did we march through the high overarching trees, which completely shut out the rays of the sun and rendered the forest gloomy in the extreme; various sounds of birds and animals broke upon our ears from time to time, but as yet we had not heard the peculiar cry of the chimpanzee. Our party consisted of Fortescue, Aziza, and myself, and about noon, feeling wearied with our fruitless search, we s.-t down to rest beneath the far-spreading limbs of a mahoganytree. While munching away at a piece of jerked buffilo, my attention was attracted to something moving on a tall tree opposite me; at first I thought it was only one of the common black monkeys, but suddenly a wild cry broke upon the stillness, and then I saw an immense chimpanzee standing upon one of the limbs of the tree before us. " Sampana! sampana! chimpanzee!" said Aziza below his breath, while he silently cocked his gun; so quick is the hearing of the chimpanzee, that the click of a gun- lock is sufficient to send him leaping and crashing' through the trees for hu(Idreds of 271

SPORT IN ASHA NT. yards, and in the thickets, where only is he found, the following up of the chase is a matter of extremest difficulty. Slowly creeping in the direction of the chimpanzee, which was surveying the surrounding forest totally unconscious of our proximity, we carefully stepped over the soft carpet of fallen leaves, assiduously avoiding every dead twig whose crackling would have instantly put the chimpanzee on the alert. Soon we found ourselves standing under the next tree to the one in which our intended victim was still looking around; he was a fine well-grown male, with a face as black as ebony, and small piercing eyes, which gazed around with restless anxiety. TTnlike the gorilla, the chimpanzee is rather a timid animal, and will rather fly from than court an attack; the greatest caution is therefore necessary to approach within range, for the chimpanzee being nearly always ia trees enjoys an extensive prospect. Like all apes, they are also very cunning, and, although the natives can very well succeed in entrapping almost every other animal, including elephants, leopards, and even antelopes, yet there is not a single recorded instance of any ape whatever being caught by any pitfall or snare. Suddenly the quick eye of the chimpanzee caught the glint of the sunbeams upon our gun-barrels; in an instant he was off, giving vent to his wild cry and crashing headlong from branch to branch. "He's gone, by Jupiter!" said Fortescue, running in the direction taken by the fugitive. The noise made by his progress through the trees enabled us to follow as quickly as the nature of the ground would allow, when suddenly it ceased, and we also came to a halt "Hush 1 " said Aziza, "the chimpanzee is hiding; if we can come upon him before he discovers us we may catch him yet." We therefore separated so as to approach the spot where we expected to find the chimpanzee from different directions, and cautiously advanced, keeping up a bright look-out for the ape. Not a sound could be heard save the rustling of the upper 272

A CHMPAAZE. branches of the trees far above our heads as they waved slowly to and fro in the gentle breeze. All at once I was startled by a loud cry close at hand, and at the same instant I heard a shot, followed -by another and another. A dreadful cry issued from the thicket c.osi, to my left, as with a terrible bound the chimpanzee fell to the ground only a few paces from me, and made violent efforts to stagger away; by the exertion of the wonderful agility with which he was possessed, he succeeded in reachirig an overhanging branch, and would certainly have escaped had I not brought himn to tho ground with a bullet through his brain. Just at this moment Fortescue and Aziza came running up. "Potted at last! I caught a glimpse of the brute through the trees, when, just as I fired, he took one of his flying leaps and I only grazed him; Aziza made a random shot and knocked bim out of the tree, and even then I think he would have got off if you hadn't put the finishing stroke upon it." "He had got hold of a branch and was lifting himself up by it, when I knocked him over; he was very near coming down on the top of me as he crashed through the branches over my head." "Well, never mind your head, we've potted our game, and so far all's well." Leaving the dead chimpanzee in charge of four men, with instructions to skin it, we proceeded further into the forest, and succeeded in bringing down a second adult chimpanzee, together with a young baby female. "What a pity we couldn't secure the baby alive," said Fortescue, as he lifted the tiny ape from the ground. "We'll try to get one, but I'm afraid it will be a task of no ordinary difficulty. Can you give us a wrinkle as to how we can get a young chimpanzee, Aziza ?" He shook his head. "They are very hard to catch ; you can't trap them nor lure them within reach- by fruits. The only way is to watch for a young one in a tree separated from others, 273

SPORT IN ASHAVTI. then by surrounding it and cutting io down, we may perhaps catch it before it gets away." "I'm afraid we shall be a long while before we get the cimpanzee on the lonely tree; it seems to be very little better than waititg for one to come near enough to have his tail salted," said Fortescue. "Ha, ha, ha ! " laughed I, "that's the first time I ever heard that chimpanzees had tails; I suppose they belong to a similar race as the long-tailed bears, the only trace of whose existence we now have is in the great and little bears round the North Pole." "I've often wondered where the clever philosophers who named those constellations obtained their long-tailed specimens from; perhaps their ideas of bears were much on a par with the old gentleman's description of a crab." "What was that? " said I "A red fish that walks backward." "'M! not a bad idea, certainly, if there was a single item correct." On reaching the camp we found Melinda already arrived with a fine skin of an adult female chimpanzee, which he had surprised making a hearty repast on pineapples. "We're certainly in luck to-day," said Fortescue, "but what on earth is this we have got for dinner ?" " It looks like stewed baby, but I expect it is only monkey." " Well, if any person can eat a stewed monkey he will not have any very great difficulty in managing a fat infant." "Don't you be run off the rails by stupid prejudice; there is very little game to be obtained in the forests of Africa which is a patch upon a fine fat monkey nicely stewed with pepper and a lime." "Well, for Heaven's sake! have the beast disjointed before it is served up,-it is too suggestive at present." Notwithstanding Fortescue could not quite forget the human likeness between a monkey and a baby, he made a very hearty meal from it, and when he had emptied his fourth plateful said,- 2 74

A STAIACTITE CA VE. "It certainly does not do to judge everything by appearances, I never enjoyed a meal so much in my life; one doesn't need Nabob sauce to get such stuff as that down." The next day we again started out, determined to capture a young chimpanzee alive if such a thing were possible. While gazing around on the look-out for our agile game, I nearly stumbled upon a scaly manis, which lay curled up at my feet; I at once seized the curious creature by the neck, and, in spite of its struggles, managed to keep it until my cries brought assistance. Two fellows then tied it up to a long stick, which they carried between them, and so took the creature up to our camp; there we tried to keep it alive by feeding it with ants and scraps of meat, but, in spite of all our endeavours to preserve it, it was found dead one morning, and our only consolation was that we had still the skin, which was carefully taken off and pre. served. After sending home the manis, I took my way towards a range of hills, whose feet reached to the very edge of the gargling rill by the side of which we had pitched our camp. The change from the wearisome monotony of everlasting forest and prairie with scarcely a ten feet rise in it was delightful. Regardless of aught else I climbed over the rocky slopes, and suddenly found myself at the mouth of a huge cavern. "Here's a discovery! " said I, "perhaps this is the abode of one of the lions whose roaring has disturbed us for the last two nights." The entrance was rather low, certainly not more than four feet in height, and carefully examining the approach, in the hope of discovering whether it was inhabited or not, I crawled through. Not a single footprint rewarded my search, but I found that a few feet from the entrance the cave suddenly enlarged; so high indeed was the roof that I could not distinguish it in the semi. darkness, while how far the cavern extended towards the heart of the mountain I could not make out. I struck a match and, holding it far above my head, endea. voured to penetrate the gloom; the feeble light was reflected from a thousand points above and around me, and I became coai 275

SPORT IN ASANTI. scious that I was in a cave of stalactites, whose glittering sides bad reflected back the light of my match. High overhead the glassy pendants stretched several feet towards the floor, while beneath them the kindred stalagmites reared themselves upwards, as though courting the embrace of their brethren; through the centre flowed a tiny stream, the waters of which were icy cold, and in the dim twilight looked ink-black. "Whither could this stream flow, and whence did it come ?" Such was the thought that rose in my mind as I again neared the entrance, for my light had already become extinguished: searching around, I quickly gathered a number of dry sticks, which I carried into the cave and then set them on fire. The ruddy blaze was reflected from all sides of the cavern with a brilliant effect; it reminded me rather of one of the fairy palaces I had read of than a reality. I then discovered that the little rill trickled from the side of the cavern and flowed onward towards the heart of the mountain, and, as the cave extended further than I could see, even with the aid of the blazing fire, I determined to manufacture a torch and explore it. Had I been nearer the coast the making of a torch would have been a matter of the smallest difficulty, since there the palm-oil-tree grows plentifully, and a handful of the nuts stuck in the cleft of a stick would burn with a clear light for a considerable length of time. Up the country, however, at least as far as we bad now penetrated, the palm-oil- tree no longer grew; it is only found within a zone extr)nding some fifty miles along the coast line. However, nothing daunted, I searched around for the best substitute I could find; to the left was a tree which, to my surprise, I re. cognised as the candle-tree of botanists. Well I knew that from it exuded a waxy secretion, which, when melted and run into moulds, formed excellent candies; there was no time for the manufacture of such articles of luxury at the present time, however, so I determined to cut a good stick or two and make my torch of them. 276

AN EXPZ ORA TION.2 The experiment was successful to a degree; the waxy sap gave out a clear blaze, and, thus furnished with the necessary light, I began my investigation. After advancing several yards into the cavern, I fancied 1 heard the fall of water, and soon discovered that a second stream, issuing from the sides of the cave high overhead, fell noisily into a kind of natural basin. The edges of this trough were thickly studded with stalagmites of a gigantic size, while the stalactites were here of a larger size than at the entrance. The water fell from a height of about fifteen feet, but, as I raised my torch on high to examine its position, I saw that under the fall was a hole about four feet high and three wide, which was evidently the entrance to another cavern. Struck with surprise and wonder, the determination came strong upon me to visit this cavern as well as the outer one. I was well armed with gun and revolver, and therefore was a tolerable match for any wild beasts which might make it t'heir den, though as yet I had seen no traces of them. I knew that in the daytime several of the an-imals which roam about at night in the quest of prey were apt to secrete themselves in holes in the rocks, or in the most gloomy recesses of the forests, so that my caution was only a reasonable one. After communing with my thoughts as to the advisability of continuing my exploration, my curiosity got the better of my caution, and, upon making an examination of the entrance, I discovered several rough places which would serve as footholds, for the entrance to the cave was several feet higher than the floor of the cavern. No sooner, however, was I inside-and, without doubt, the cavern had never been before disturbed by the presence of man -than the light of my torch seemed to excite the astonishment and anger of a legion of vampire bats, as large as pigeons, which fluttered their spectre-like wings around my torch, threatening each moment to involve me in total darkness, while the heavy, but 277

SPORT IN ASHANTI. soft and weird-like, flapping of their wings, filled the cavern with a kind of roar like the noise of a distant storm. I halted for an instant as the spectre-like creatures flapped themselves around me, when suddenly one, perhaps blinded by the light, dashed out the torch, thus leaving me in total obscurity. My fears at the first moment of darkness were almost ludicrously alarming, when a person takes into consideration the nature of my foes, but a moment after I saw to my astonishment that there was a faint glimmering of light beyond me, which lit up the cave from the outside, and therefore advancing rapidly to where the welcome sunlight was admitted by a few fissures from above, the bats soon ceased to annoy me. The stupendous nature of the cavern then became apparent, since it extended far into the very heart of the mountain. The fact then dawned upon me that perhaps there was a natural passage through the mountain, by means of the cavern, so I determined to continue my investigations. After relighting my torch I advanced nearly a hundred yards further, the floor of the cave rising with a gentle slope, when I came upon a tiny pool, doubtless the source of the stream which fell into the basin in the lower cave. On the other side of this pool there was evidently a third cavern, but the entrance was ominously gloomy and forbidding; without understanding why, I felt an instinctive dread against entering this new cave, but determined to overrule my fears and follow out my investigation to the very end. Holding the torch high above my head, I crossed the pool and stood at the entrance of the cave. I could see nothing; all was dark and gloomy, and silent as the grave. At length, peering with strained eyeballs, not daring to enter, on account of a vague sense of impending danger, I became conscious from an innate feeling, indescribable but yet well-founded, that there was something in the cave beyond me. Still I looked, and as my eyes became more accustomed to the gloom, methought I could see within the innermost recesses of 278

AN A WFUL MOMENT. this third cave two bright spots, which gleamed as if with liquid fire. With a shudder I clutched my gun, and without thinking for a moment upon the foolhardiness of the act, let drive both barrels at the gleaming objects. Never !-never shall I forget the horror of the next two moments. The report of my gun reverberated through the roof and sides of the cavern with a roar that stunned and bewildered me; my ears were deafened, but through all the uproar I never once closed my eyes, but kept them fixed upon the spot where I had seen the two glowing circles. Great Heaven! what was this I saw? A python such as I had read of and always considered to be among the fables travellers had told us. The monster was not ten or twenty, but nearly seventy feet long, and with a hiss that sounded perfectly demoniacal in his intense hate, the monster bounded towards the entrance of the cavern. How I descended from the cave and gained the other side of the pool I never knew, but when I regained my senses I saw the monster uncoiling fold after fold of his horrid length, preparatory to making the final spring which was to end in my utter destruction. The moment was the most awful I bad ever experienced. The snake reared its huge head until its enormous mouth with its sharp rows of teeth appeared on a level with my face, while its tongue hung out with a hideous and vengeful aspect, andits eyes sparkled with mingled rage and astonishment. I felt a cold stream of perspiration running down my back, and I could not stir hand or foot for several minutes; lucky for me at that moment was it that the snake delayed the fatal spring. My gun empty and useless hung at my side by its strap, for in my terror I had dropped it; I would have turned and fled, but the horror inspired by such a monster was too great to allow me such a relief,-the sight of such a dreadful creature which was slowly crawling up to me, paralysed me with fear. 279

SPORT IN ASHANTI. On, on it came, until its slimy body almost touched me as it glided by foot after foot, until in my agony of thought I ima. gined it would never end. It was evidently almost as frightened as I was, but at the time I thought not of this; meanwhile the awful din of my shot still re-echoed through the cavern, and the flapping of millions of bats startled by the report seemed to fill the air with demons waiting to hurry off my soul to perdition. For some moments I stood petrified, and when at last I recovered myself in some degree, I turned and fled as fast as my legs could carry me to the entrance to the cavern. Never will the remembrance of the supreme delight with which I greeted the joyous light of the sun be effaced from my memory; it was like awakening from death into life, nor would I at that moment have re-entered the cavern for all the treasures of Croesus. Terror such as mine is a feeling which weighs heaviest and tells longest upon the mind of man; just as an army once set in a panic is scarcely able to be reorganised, so were my scattered thoughts a long while before they assumed any rational shape. Reason was some time before it again resumed its sway, and I sat outside shaking with terror with the drops of cold perspiration dropping on the ground around me; my heart thumped within my breast wildly as if it would burst its confinement. Then I realised the awful predicament from which I had just escaped, and felt but a single source of comfort, namely, that I was quite sure that the python was just as terrified as myself, notwithstanding its huge strength and hideous capability for wreaking vengeance upon its enemies. I quickly made the best of my way to the camp, where I refreshed myself with a glass of stiff brandy, but it was several hours before my nerves recovered from their severe shock. All that night my dreams were of the most fearful nature. 280

A TERRIBLE DANGER. 281 I started with affright with a kind of indescribable nightmare over me; I was wrestling with snakes, until towards morning my mind gradually became calmer, and by the time Sackie and Richards had prepared our morning cup of coffee I bad recovered something of my usual serenity.

CHAPTER XV. A DUEL WITH HIPPOPOTAI-TERRIELE ENCOUNTER WITH A PANTHERTWO MEN SEIZED-TORTOISES-A DESPERATE RHINOCEROS- A BABOON HOTEL-RUNNING DOWN 3LEPHANTS-A HEAVY GAME BAG-AN UNWELCOME BEDFELLOW WE marched steadily northward for three days, after my adventures in the cave, until we came within the territory of King Akoonga. This monarch enjoyed the rather ambiguous notoriety of possessing eighty-three wives and a hundred and forty-six children. We crossed the river separating Akoonga's country from that of his more southern neighbour early one mornipng, having encamped on the banks overnight. While waiting for the baggage to be transported, I took my gun, and, accompanied by Fortescue, strolled along the river's bank, which was unusually clear of trees. After walking for a few hundred yards we heard a great bellowing, and upon coming to a bend, had the good fortune to witness a fight between two hippopotami. Two huge beasts, who appeared to have an inveterate hostility to each other, suddenly rose to the surface of the river and rushed towards each other. Their huge and hideous mouths were open to their widest possible extent, revealing their terrible array of teeth in all their cruel sharpness. Their eyes flamed with rage, and they exerted every atom. of their Herculean strength to annihilate each other.

A HIPPOPOTAMUS DUEL. They seized each other with their immense jaws, and tore out great mouthfuls of flesh. They stabbed at each other with their tusks and advanced and manceuvred with all the cunning of the professional pugilist. Now the fight continued at the surface, and now it raged at the bottom. Their blood poured out from numerous wounds and dyed the water around with a orimson hue, while their hideous bellowing of mingled rage and pain was terrible to listen to. Their savageness left but little opportunity for any very great display of cunning, as they rushed at each other blinded with fury. For more than an hour did the combat rage, until one of them, having possibly been wounded severely, even though protected by so thick and tough a hide, turned tail and made off, leaving the other master of the scene. "Well, of all the fights I ever witnesed, this is certainly the most savage. Well was it for the combatants that they were protected by so coriaceous an armour, otherwise they would have ripped each other up in the first round." "Notwithstanding the huge size and enormous strength of the hippopotamus," said I, "it is rarely that they act on the aggressive. Canoes can pass freely up and down a river swarming with hippo. potami and they do not seem to notice them at all. Accidents do certainly often occur, for the beasts have a very unhappy knack of popping their ponderous heads above water just where they are not wanted, and if they take rise just in front of a canoe the result is a capsize. But even in such cases I have never heard of them attacking the canoeman, though sometimes the pig- headed beast will imagine himself attacked and demolish the canoe." "And a good thing it is that they are not savage beasts, for I think one could devour all the people in a village with but little difficulty if be tried." On rejoining our party we proceeded across an open country with thick clumps of brushwood mingled with thickets of fern at scattered intervals, and encamped for the night in a lovely little dell on the edge of the forest. While eating our dinners one of our men who had been cutting 283

SPORT IN ASHANTI. wood, came in and told us that he had seen a large panther disappear in the wood to our left. Thereupon we all agreed to try and shoot him that evening, and accordingly hastened to conclude our repast. Accompanied by A ziza and three other natives, I took the road on the lower part of the ravine, while Fortescue, Melinda, and six others went along the upper part of the valley. As in all tropical forests, no sooner had the sun set behind the western horizon, than all nature appeared to undergo a change. Voices were heard on every side proceeding from the nocturnal feeders, whether carnivorous or ruminant, and in places where one might wander for a whole day without seeing a single animal, a perfect chorus of sounds awoke the stillness. For more than an hour we walked silently along the narrow tracks, worn by the passage of various animals, often stumbling over jagged and gnarled roots in the darkness, for as yet the moon had not arisen. Ever and again we heard the toot-toot of the owl emitted by Melinda on the hilltop as a signal to us, which was answered by Aziza in turn. Suddenly we heard a low purring to our left. We halted and listened. Again the sound was heard, this time rather fainter, as if the animal were going away. I held my breath as I peered through the gloom, for the wily brute might all the time be watching us, and gathering strength for his spring. Suddenly a faint ray of light shot athwart the ravine, as the moon rose nearly obscured by the dark flitting clouds. Aziza stood in readiness, and thus awaiting the dinouement, we paused. All was still, even the purring was hushed; and, save the distant bellowing of the buffalo, not a sound broke upon the solitude. Then a low muttered growl caused us to prick up our ears, as Aziza whispered in my ear,"The panther sees something, we must be careful." I loosened my hunting-knife from its sheath, ready for any emergency, as another growl, more awful than the last, caught my ear with a sound of snapping twigs faintly dying away. "I wish we could warn Fortescue of the approach of the panther," said I. 284

A BL 00DY TihA GEDI5Y "Melinda is a brave hunter. You need not fear he will be surprised." "True, but we have a proverb ' Forewarned is forearmed,' and if we could signal to him he would be on the alert." "Let us follow the panther. He has gone after something. We are to leeward and perhaps his keen scent has detected the the party on the hill." Cautiously stepping over every obstacle, which the fickle light of the moon rendered but partly visible, we gradually wormed our way up the hillside. Suddenly a shot was heard, followed by a roar mingled with a cry of mortal agony, such as none but a human being could have uttered. "Good God! " said I, "the panther has seized one of them. Haste or we shall be too late." Crashing through the tangled thickets, and heedless of tho showers of ants which rained upon us from the branches we so roughly shook, we made all speed for the spot whence the fearful sound proceeded. Again did that cry pierce through our hearts, and at the samo time a shout from Fortescue for help, at once reassured me that my friend was still safe, while I knew that fearful danger must menace him for him to shout for aid. "Quick, for Heaven's sake!" cried I, hurrying on as well as the darkness would permit me; aTd just as another shot rang out we emerged upon a small open spot. There a fearful scene presented itself to our affrighted gaze. Fortescue was standing by the side of a full-grown leopard quivering in its death throes with his sleeve torn from the shoulder to the wrist, while on the right, one of our men lay prostrate with the panther standing over him. The man's head was lying on the edge of a break in the ground with his legs upwards towards the top of the hill. The panther had seized the poor wretch by the left arm, which it held in its mouth, while its cruel claws were buried, the one in the face and the other in the side of the unfortunate hunter. 285

SPORT IN ASHANTI We dared not fire in the position in which the panther stood for fear of wounding the hunter; and thus paralysed, we gazed at the fearful spectacle for some seconds. At length a low growl proceeded from the panther, which slightly shifted its hold, and then Melinda stole softly up and plunged his knife deep into its side; and, to my astonishment, fell back as if dead. Giving vent to a fearful roar, the panther turned on his new assailant, and just as he was about to seize the prostrate Melinda in his horrid jaws, I darted to his side and sent a bullet crashing through its brain. The wholo of this fearful tragedy had been acted in less than fifty seconds, and when the dead body of the panther rolled over, we turned to our wounded men. " In Heaven's name, Fortescae, how did this happen " said I, pointing to his sleeve. "Oh! I'm all right, let us see to these poor fellows." To my astonishment, on raising Melinda, I found his shoulder cruelly lacerated and streaming with blood, which had caused him to faint. Meanwhile, Fortescue had been attending to the other victim, who presented a terrible sight. His face was torn from the forehead down to the chin by the fangs of the brute. His lower jaw was smashed in three places, while his breast was scored as if with a knife. The muscles of his left forearm were bitten through and through, and the blood covered the ground for yards around. Raising our wounded men, we sadly wended our way towards the camp, while Fortescue gave me an account of the struggle. It appeared that they had had their attention attracted to the left by the growl of a leopard, and while on the look out for it the panther had approached unobserved and sprung upon Melinda. Fortunately for him, however, the panther's aim was bad, perhaps owing to the uncertain light, and he escaped with a flesh wound in the shoulder; deep, but not dangerous. Determined not to be balked of his prey, the panther turned 286

A NARROW ESCAPE. quick as lightning and seized the hunter nearest Melinda, and bore him to the ground, crunching his face in a fearful sickening manner. The poor fellow uttered that fearful cry which had reached us, and in the struggle his gun went off, the ball passing clean through the lower jaw of the panther. This, in all probability, saved the poor fellow's life, for the brute seemed to be paralysed by the shock. At this instant the leopard, which had just attracted the attention of the party, uttered a loud roar and sprang upon them, knocking :Fortescue down and tearing the sleeve of his jacket from the shoulde.. Startled for an instant, he scarcely knew whether he was hurt or not; but, quickly recovering, he sent a ball through the heart of the leopard, which was crouching ready for a second spring. Just at this moment Aziza and I came up, and the reader already knows the conclusion of the tragedy. All night we sat up bathing and bandaging the wounds of our companions, and for more than a week we continued on the same spot, in order to give rest to the wounded. Thanks to their vigorous constitutions they mended rapidly, although the face of the hunter who had been seized by the panther had several ugly scars on it, which effectually spoilt his beauty for evei. The next morning a party went out to look for the panther, which they found lying stark in a pool of blood, together with the body of the leopard. Scores of vultures had already assembled on the trees, awaiting the decomposition of the carcases, for that bird has a very aristocratic taste for high game. This adventure somewhat cooled our ardour, but when we saw our wounded on the high-road to recovery our sporting taste returned in all its intensity, and we were prepared to fight panthers or any other animals that fell in our way. At the next village we arrived at we were told that a large rhinoceros had been seen in a valley about five miles to the eastward, where a stream spread out and formed a marshy district such as the animal loves On reaching the morass we separated into two pirties, the one 287

SPORT IN ASiAAITM. going to tne right and the other to the left, appointing a rendez. vous where we agreed to meet on our way home. Several antelopes of various species appeared bounding through the tall grass, but we were on the look out for other game, and consequently only shot one for the sake of its flesh. While walking about I suddenly stumbled across a large tortoise, which was cutting along at what must have been race. horse speed to it. As it was a very fine specimen, I took it home, and its shell is now mounted as a flower vase in my house in England. All at once, without a sound of warning, we heard a fearful uproar to our left; and on turning beheld the rhinoceros rushing furiously at us at the top of its speed, crashing through the thick reeds as if they were mere spectres and ploughing up the ground for several yards with its horn. Its fury seemed awful in its intensity as it charged at everything that came in its way, whether stones, trees, or bushes. We had not a chance to put in a shot, so took to our heels and ran for very life. Luckily the rhinoceros charges in a direct line, never swerving to the right or left, and when we had put ourselves a few yards out of its course, we turned and watched an opportunity to land our bullets. The rhinoceros all at once stopped short in his impetuous career and gruntedly loudly, as if he scented danger. Nor was he very far wrong, for he gave us the chance we had waited for. and, taking aim at the most vulnerable parts, we all three fired. The huge beast was evidently badly hit, for he fell on his knees, uttering a hideous snort. Then rising again, he rushed madly towards us, while wa scampered on one side and allowed him to vent his rage on the bushes near which we had been standing. He tore up the grass by the roots and snorted with fury, charging recklessly here and there as he fancied he descried an enemy. At last I got a chance to draw a bead upon him, and as the smole cleared off I saw the gigantic pachyderm topple over with a crash that fairly made the earth tremble. 288

A rRE OP P BAPOONS. Our shots had reached the ears of Fortescue and his party, who made their appearance just in time to be in at the death. "Well, old fellow," said he, "you're in luck to-day; for we've potted nothing except a miserable eland." "Your turn to-morrow, mine to-day. It's only the fortune of hunting. Who knows that you may not shoot an unknown animal to-morrow 'I" "No such luck, I'm afraid. By the bye it is lucky for Melinda that he didn't shoot the rhinoceros, as he would have a tough job to skin it." As the hide of the rhinoceros is invaluable for many purposes, being almost bullet proof, and is so hard that it can only be cut by the very best steel, we remained by the carcass until it was skinned, a job which took up nearly four hours, although as many were employed at it as could get at the body. So massive was the epidermis that it formed a load for six stout fellows, and even they could not have carried it for any great distance. The next day, while on the look-out for elephants, I came across a peculiar sight. A very large tree, growing on a small ait in a stream which flowed through the valley where we had shot the rhinoceros, was swarming with baboons. At a distance it somewhat reminded me of the appearance of a man-of-war with her yards manned. It was ludicrous in the extreme to see them hurrying down to get out of the way, big and little, old and young, some three or four hundred in number. There was no fruit on the tree for them to eat, but the natives say that it is their home and their watch-tower, and that they have lived in the same kind of trees for years. Such instances of the proclivity of a company of baboons for one particular tree are by no means rare. Notwithstanding I tramped over twenty miles, not a sign of elephant could I see; and I was wearily trudging my way home when, on looking back, I saw a troop of nearly a hundred buffalo quietly grazing towards me. They had evidently no suspicion of

SPORT N S.4HSfANI. my presence, as they were to the windward of me; so sitting down on the grass, I patiently awaited their approach. At last, when about sixty yards off, I selected a splendid bull and dropped him at a shot. The others fled over the hills to the right, whither I followed them, more with the idea of exploring the country and looking out for elephant tracks than with the idea of shooting more, for we were fifteen miles at least from camp and we could not carry any great load with us. I there fell in with the spoor of elephants, and after thoroughly reconnoitring the locality so as to find it in the morning, returned to camp pretty well knocked up. Fortescue had succeeded in bagging a young bull elephant, and obtained a fine pair of scrivellos* from it. The next day we sallied out on the spoor of the elephants I had discovered the day before, accompanied by all our people and several of the villagers, 'who could not resist so good a chance of a glorious feed. We had agreed to pursue this herd and, if possible, to drive them about according to a plan we had learned from the natives, that when winded and knocked up we might easily pocket the whole lot. It may seem rather an exaggerated story for us to try to tire out elephants, but, although possessed of such enormous strength, they are soon wearied by travelling. About ten o'clock we came up with the troop, which moved off on our approach, while the natives came on shouting and yelling like so many Bedlamites out for a holiday. The elephants made for a small creek, and when they arrived at it commenced cooling their bodies, by filling their trunks with the water and squirting it over their backs. As we gained upon them they again started off, but finally came to a stand about a mile further on. There they began throwing dirt all over themselves, there being no water in the place; and, while so engaged, Fortescue opened * The small tusks of young elephants are called scrivellos, and are much sought for by ivory-turners, as they are very hard and take a high polish. 290

AN EXCITING CHASE. the ball by letting drive at a fine old bull. The shot had only the effect of enraging him, and on he came at us with trunk extended and trumpeting fearfully. Fortescue, who had not had time to reload, took to his heels, and would soon have been overtaken by the elephant had not a well-directed shot from Melinda brought him to the ground. Meanwhile, the rest of the herd had quietly marched off, and on our again overtaking them I gave the hindmost a shot in the ribs, which sent her shaking for a hundred yards or so, when she too toppled over stone-dead. The others now appeared to be really alarmed and dispersed while each of us selected the animal nearest to him, and followed in pursuit. The one I was after was a young bull, standing about eight feet; and getting a chance at his shoulder, my first shot dropped him like a bird. In an instant, however, he was on his legs again and two more balls from my heavy rifle entered his body. This brought him to a halt, but with an activity and strength that could scarcely be credited he chased me three times consecutively, but without trumpeting, and with a lack-lustre in his small eyes that told me his end was near. Just as I was about pouring in my fourth shot, he shuffled backwards for several paces, as if to gain momentum, and then charging me with headlong fury, he fell dead at my feet with a crash like the fall of a young avalanche. While seated on the carcase of this, my third elephant on that day, awaiting the return of Fortescue and our hunters, Melinda came up following the trail of a fine cow. Just as he came abreast of me he halted, and with a single well-aimed shot struck her full in the breast, the ball penetrating close to the head. Still, though mortally wounded, she ran for more than two hundred yards with trunk extended and tail erect, sweeping down in her career of death a young tree more than a foot in diameter with apparently just the same amount of ease with which I should break a thistle. Then, uttering her piercing death-cry, she came tottering to the ground and died. 291

SPORT IN ASHANTI Great were the rejoicings that day among the villagers as they camped out near the fallen elephants, while Fortescue and 1, laden with our ivory, returned to camp. The brains of the elephants were carefully extracted and sewn up in small leather bags to make fetiche with, for the natives consider that the fortunate possessor will always have unlimited success in hunting so long as he carries it about with him. The next day was occupied in cleaning and preparing our ivory for transport, while the villagers were fetching in the elephant meat. Fires were lighted, and the beef, cut into narrow strips, was hung in the smoke to dry. At night feasting and dancing were carried on with disgusting scenes until a late hour, when overcome with beef and palm wine, the elated villagers sunk off into slumber, and the silence of the forest again reigned supreme. During the night I had a very disagreeable adventure. While lying asleep I became conscious of a tickling sensation on one of my feet and at first took no notice of it, thinking it was nothing but the fringe of my blanket. Nevertheless, it still continued, and then to my horror I felt the legs of some reptile moving over me. I jumped up and struck a light, and saw to my dismay, an enormous scorpion nearly nine inches long stalking proudly, with tail erect, over my bed. Of course, I quickly despatched it, but the thoughts of the vile reptile prevented me from obtaining any sleep for the remainder of the night; and I was by no means sorry when the grey streaks of dawn warned me that it was time to get up. These scorpions are often very troublesome, especially in the huts of the natives when they are built of logs, or have a quantity of wood stored up near them for firing. Upon one occasion, I was sitting eating my dinner, when one of the reptiles leaped on my breast, and on my shaking it off it fell between my boot-top and my leg. Fortunately, however, I succeeded in dragging it out with a long pair of forceps before it had time to sting me. 292

CHAPTER XV. ANOTHER PYTHON-THRILLING ADVENTURE WITH AN ELEPHFANT- MOREYMAI'S TERROR AT 'WITCHCRAFT-DRIVING OUT WITCHES-IMPOSING CEREMONY -AN INVASION - OUR SUCCESSFUL RESISTANCE - OFFERS OF SLAVESNEWS OF AWOONA AT LAST. LEAVING the villagers in the highest spirits at the prospect of a week of beastly gluttony, we pursued our way. We had now advanced to the slopes of the Kong mountains, whose blue outlines we had seen for more than a week past. The scenery became more rugged as we journeyed northward, and hill and valley succeeded in picturesque variety. The curious chandelier-tree, with its grotesque branches, was often seen standing conspicuously out upon some bare rock, while splendid acacias with scarlet flowers, which looked as if the tree were ablaze at a distance, increased the beauty of the landscape. While marching through the jangle Aziza incautiously .trod upon a large python, which lay coiled up asleep right across the path. The hideous reptile was apparently half stupefied by a recent meal, for a couple of horns of a small antelope yet protruded from his jaws. A shot from my revolver quickly despatched it, and on opening it we found the antelope completely smashed to a jelly, and but partly digested.

SPORT IN ASHANTI Aziza told me that sometimes the pythons are killed by the horns of the antelopes protruding through the skin. He also told us that many of the Ashantees have firm belief that the python has two stings in its tail, by means of which it kills its prey. Birds were very numerous, and all day long we were entertained by the cackling of pheasants, the loud whistling of owlets, the frog-like croakings of toucans, the clamorous jargon of jays, and the twitterings of finches, so that we seemed to be constantly in the neighbourhood of a Seven Dials' bird-fancier. We had this day a specimen of the daring intrepidity which had gained Aziza the renown of being the greatest hunter in all Ashanti. While strolling through the forest with him I had the misfortune to catch my gun- barrel on the ground, and clog it up with dirt and stones. While clearing out the obstruction which would have rendered the discharge of my gun most likely fatal to myself, in consequence of its bursting, two elephants suddenly came down right upon us. Aziza, nothing daunted, took up a bold stand and fired, killing one elephant on the spot. Unluckily, it was the cow, and her partner, seeing her fall, rushed madly at Aziza, trumpeting loudly. The hunter turned to flee, for his gun was unloaded, but unfortunately he caught his foot in one of the trailing llianas, and fell to the ground. In vain did he kick out to get free. The more he struggled the less he got loose, and, in the meantime, the elephant was coming thundering down upon him, crashing through bush and briar, and tearing up young trees in its impetuous fury. I fairly shrieked with terror, when, just as the elephant was almost on the top of him, Aziza got his foot loose, and, with an almost superhuman effort, swung himself into a young tree that grew close at hand. Hardly had he done this than the elephant was beneath him bellowing With rage. It seized the sapling in his powerful grasp 294

A DARING FEAT and swung it violently from side to side in frantic efforts to tear it up by the roots. I expected to see Aziza come tumbling down beneath the elephant's feet, but, to my surprise, he clutched at another tree which grew near, and when the elephant seized this, he took advantage of the impetus given by its motion, and swung himself into the branches of a large oak, where he was soon out of reach of his dangerous enemy. By this time I had cleared my gun, and advancing close up to the elephant, who was trumpeting in. vain rage at the escape of his enemy, I sent a ball clean through his heart, and he fell dead at my feet. There had been rumours floating about that Gamolulu, the King of Sankpata, was about to go to war, and in consequence our people began to murmur at our proceeding so far to the north. When these mighty potentates contemplate a campaign, they invariably keep the matter secret from all, except their private councillors, so that no one knows whether his town is the one to be attacked or not. All the towns and villages had stockades built round them, more to prevent the incursions of wild beasts than to keep out human enemies. These palisades were often decorated with fetiche charms and trophies of the chase, so that we could often obtain a tolerably good idea of the fauna of the neighbourhood by an inspection of the talismans hung round the gap which served as a gate for passage in and out of the village. The day after Aziza's narrow escape from the elephant we entered the village of Assahcoomah, after a rather fatiguing march, for we had made several considerable detours in the pursuit of game. The head man of this village was the most superstitious fellow we met with in the whole of our wanderings. Moreymai had a larger collection of fetiche talismans and charms than ever the head doctor of Koffee Kalcalli himself possessed. Nearly a hundred little bags of magic dangled fromn various parts of his 2 95

SPORT IN ASHANTI person, while the roof of his dwelling exhibited an appearance similar to a rack of herrings hung up to dry, so numerous were the fetiches hanging therefrom. He had got it into his thick head that some one or other was trying to bewitch him. In vain had he dashed the fetiche man heavily, and in vain had several innocent victims been put to a cruel death, yet still Moreymai felt that he was in imminent danger of being bewitched. For more than a year he had not gone out of the gates by the direct street, but had made circuitous d~tours to avoid any evil spirit which might be lying in wait for him. He was informed in a dream, at least so he told us, that the main streets of the village were haunted by evil spirits waiting to pounce on the most suitable victim, and as he, with pardonable pride, justly considered himself to be the greatest "catch " of the place, he felt that they had a great desire to get at him, and he was persuaded that if he passed down any main street he would surely die. Several extraordinary efforts had been made to drive off the spirits which there lay in wait, but Moreymai, although he implicitly believed in sorcery itself, had but little faith in the sorcerers themselves. When we arrived at the village, a last and extraordinary attempt was about to be made to drive off the witches whose presence tormented the poor chief well- nigh out of his wits. A celebrated exorciser had been fetched from the Bombola country, far away to the north, at great expense, to perform this important ceremony. This great feticheer's name was Mpomo. The inhabitants were gathered together in great numbers, as the shades of evening fell, round the large shed which was erected as a palaver house in the open square, in the middle of the village. Fires had been lit, and the people sat in groups around them, their black faces being almost lost in the gloom, while the flickering light of the fires showed only their eyes and 296

DRIVING THE DEVIL 0 UT. teeth, together with the few brazen rings which the more well-to. do persons wore on their arms and legs. Fortescue and I were summoned to witness the final expulsion of the spirits, and, accompanied by Melinda and Aziza, we repaired to the scene about ten o'clock, when the loud beating of drums and braying of horns warned us that the ceremony was about to commence. The proceedings opened by the doctor singing some very egotistical songs, in which he boasted considerably about his marvellous power over all the witches in Africa. Then he commenced to blow a large horn, to the end of which small bells, like those on a child's coral, were attached. This was the signal for all the people who were not assembled at the palaver to shut themselves in their houses. The hurry evinced in the attempt to get into their houses before the devil caught them, was ludicrous, men, women, and children hurrying and scurrying along, and often tripping each other up in the race for the front. I afterwards found that four women, who had failed to get home as quickly as they hoped, had taken refuge in my house, not daring to quit it while the ceremony lasted. The next order was to extinguish all fires and lights, and in less than twenty minutes there was not a single spark in the whole town, except that in our own dwelling, which was, of course, excused on account of our being white men. The darkness was most intense, that pitchy Cimmerian gloom which seems almost palpable to the touch. Silence reigned supreme, even the very dogs being hushed. Not a voice, or the hum of distant conversation could be heard, even in a whisper, though there were nearly a thousand people assembled in the square. Suddenly the profound silence was broken by the feticheer, who, standing in the centre of the square, began talking some unknown jargon, of which neither I nor anybody else could make out the meaning. Nevertheless, it seemed to be understood by the people as 297

SPORT IN ASHANTI. having some important signification, for they answered in chorus from time to time. This curious performance went on for more than an hour, and so much influence has darkness and mystery upon the human mind. that even Fortescue and I, as we afterwards confessed to each other, began to feel as if we were in the presence of some dreadful being endowed with supernatural powers, and that we were completely in his power. It was one of the strangest scenes I ever took part in, and I shall never forget the singular depressing effect of the inky darkness, and the hollow tones of the fetish priest. We could see nothing but the faces of the two or three persons sitting close beside us, whose looks plainly showed the intensity of their feelings. Poor wretches, they were terribly frightened, as, indeed, all the people were. The hollow voice of the incantor resounded curiously and impressively through the silence; and when the answering chorus of many mingled voices rose through the darkness, it really assumed the air of a serious bona-fide communion with the spirits of the nether world. At last, just about midnight, we heard the juju doctor approach us. He had little bells strung round his neck, wrists, and ankles, which jingled as he walked about. He went into every house in the main street, the object of his previous incantation being to summon every spirit and witch in the town to the street wherein the ceremony took place. In every house he asked aloud if the witch were there, and, of course, the terrified inmates ansiwered, "No." Then he set up a fearful yell, and began to run up and down the bewitched street, calling out loudly to the witch to be off. This was continued for nearly a quaiter of an hour, when he approached Moreymai, who sat near us, and announced that he could no longer see any of the spirits, and had not the least doubt that they had all gone off, never to return. At this joyful news all the people rushed out of their houses, and began singing and capering about in an exuberance of 298

.MORE YMAI' S TIMIDITY feelings, as if they had just been reprieved at the scaffold's foot. They shouted out, "Go away! Go away! Never come back to torment our chief. At your peril do you return to bewitch Nioreymai." Fires were then lit, and a feasting began; for savages, like civilised, cannot bring any great event to a conclusion without an appeal to their stomachs. Notwithstanding all the fame of the fetiche man, however, and in spite of his reiterated assurances that all the ghosts had gone to kingdom come, Moreymai refused to walk through the streets leading directly to the gates. At this the people cried out, saying that if he did not accompany Mpomo down the infected streets, the ghosts would think he was afraid of them, and would return in greater force than before. Moreymai enjoyed a high reputation as a great warrior and huntsman, and, no doubt, when opposed to mortal foes he could hold his own. When placed in array against intangible spirits, however, his courage forsook him, and it was evident that the poor wretch was suffering terribly from fright. He was assured that the witches were gone, but he evidently thought that by complying with the wishes, nay, indeed, the commands of his people, he was walking to certain death. Had he dared he would have absolutely refused, but he knew too well that if he were to do so, the people, goaded on by the priest, would compel him to march down the street, and then in all probability put him to death, with all the cruelty of which their savage natures were capable. At length, however, he plucked up courage, possibly feeling more assured, since Fortescue and I agreed to accompany him. Determined to meet his fate with a bold front, he started up and walked in advance of us, amidst the plaudits of his people, who bawled themselves hoarse in his praises. By the time the ceremony was concluded it was too late to think of turning in, so consequently we ordered our coffee to be 299

SPORT IN ASHA4VTI prepared at once, and then set out for a stroll round the neighbourhood with our nets. We had walked out, perhaps three miles, along a pathway leading us through a delightful woodland scenery, diversified with hill and dale, when we were surprised at the sight of a man fleeing towards us at the top of his speed. From the frequency of his looks behind him, he appeared to be in dread of pursuit, and as he neared us we saw that he was jaded and travel-stained, as if he had come fast and far. So intent was he upon his flight that he did not notice us till we were close upon him, and then, uttering a yell, he plunged into the bush on one side and was lost to our view. "Who was that, do you think, Melinda ?" asked I. "He looked like one of the Okabai people, who live in the town next to us." "What was he running away for? Was he a slave ecaping from his master?" "No, none of the Okabai are slaves. They have plenty of slaves themselves; but no Okabai calls any man master." "Then they are an exception to the general run of folks about here," said Fortescue, "for a more servile race I never met with." "What did he run for, then?" "I don't know. Perhaps, by-and-by, when we return, we shall learn. He was going to Assahcoomah." " I don't half-like the looks of affairs," said Fortescue. "Who knows but that he was the bearer of evil tidings. We had better return." Although I had not said anything to Fortescue, yet I must confess that my heart fairly leapt up into my mouth as I saw the fugitive run past us. I had detected blood upon his dress, as also had the quick eye of Melinda, but at a sign from me, he said nothing, as I was anxious not to cause unnecessary alarm among our people. As we neared the village, however, it was evident that something unusual was going on. Drums were beating, people were 30

AN ALARM OF WAR. shouting and running about, while the labourers were hurrying in from the plantations, although it was yet not ten o'clock. "Hallo! there's something up," said Fortescue. "I knew that fellow portended no good." "Well, we must be prepared for the worst," said I. " Let us hope that we shall not be drawn into the palaver, whatever it is." When we came near the gateway we saw a number of men planting additional palisades round the entrance, while others were unroofing the houses near the stockade, and throwing water over the bamboo walls. "What on earth is the matter?" said Fortescue. "I am afraid there is news of war. Let us hope we shall escape its horrors." No sooner had we arrived within the village than Moreymai met us, and in an excited manner told us that Gamolulu had set upon Okabai the night before, and had burnt it, and taken nearly all the people prisoners. Here was news for us. To run away was cowardly after the very hospitable manner in which we had been treated, while to stay was to run the risks of a fight with which we had not the slightest possible interest. "You will stay to help us?" implored Moreymai. "With your guns, and your men, we need not fear Gamolulu; but we will drive him off, and retake his prisoners. Oh ! we will make slaves of the Sankatanga people." Fortescue and I communed apart for a short time, and after putting the pros and cons of the case together, it was resolved that it would be better for us to stay in the village and assist Moreymai to repel the invaders than for us to attempt to escape, since, setting aside the cowardice of leaving a friend in the lurch, as we did not know from what side the assault would be made, we might run ourselves into the very danger from which we hoped to escape. Summoning Moreymai and his chief caboceers, therefore, we imparted to them the result of our conference. 361

SPORT IN ASHANTI "We will remain in the village to help you drive off Gamolulu and his army, but you must fight to the very last gasp." "Show yourselves brave men. Be not cowed if the Sankatanga people are more numerous than you are. If you fight bravely they must succumb, and then, instead of being made slaves, you will gain all the rich spoils they have taken from the Okabai." Loud shouts followed this harangue. Guns were thrown up high into the air, and caught again. Spears, bows and arrows, and swords were brandished, while the faces of the peple wore a most ferocious expression. "We will fight. We will kill them all. We will drive the Sankatanga from our village like vultures startled from a dead body by the presence of a lion. We are brave, why should we fear Gamolulu and all his people? " The houses in the main street were quickly unroofed, as the dry thatch would catch fire from the smallest spark, and a triple row of stakes was set up within the gateway. The fetiche men were exhorting the people to fight, telling them that they could not be vanquished while they put faith in the charms they carried about them. "Those who die," said they, "will be carried off to the better place, where they will be happy everlasting; and if you but do your best, aided by the white strangers, Gamolulu will be forced to fly." "We will drive him before us like husks of maize before the tornado," shouted a warrior, brandishing an immense sword, with a blade fretted like a huge fish slice. "You must not talk, and then, when it comes to the push, act like cowards," said Fortescue. "Be firm, and meet the Sankatanga people with a bold front. They cannot withstand you if you but fight bravely." Everything that could done to put the village in a state of defence having been carried out under the superintendence of Fortescue and myself, we repaired to our house, and anxiously awaited the course of events. The villagers were mustered to the number of about three thousand in the square where the exorcism had been carried out, 302

A WAITING THE ASSA UL '. and were talking loudly about the Sankatanga people, with the idea as it seemed to us of keeping their courage from oozing out at their finger ends. "Well, this is a pretty pickle to find ourselves in," said Fortescue, lighting his pipe after we had finished our dinner. " Who knows what adventures will befall him when he penetrates into the heart of a comparatively unknown and uncivilised country? Here we are in a scrape, and we must and will get ourselves out of it." "Do you think any confidence can be placed in the villagers?" "I think, that if left to themselves, IMoreymai and a few others would make a stand; but the greater part would run away helter-skelter, leaving their wives and property to the mercy of the invaders." "Theirs would be a dreadful fate. Either butchered on the spot, or else taken away and sold into bondage, which could itself be little better than a slow death." "Not in every case," said I. "Slavery among many of the inland tribes is but little different to domestic servitude. It is only when the traffic is between natives and Europeans that all its brutal horrors are developed." " I am glad to hear you say so, for it has often impressed me with a sad feeling when I looked upon the hundreds of slaves existing throughout the country. Now, however, I know their fate is not so much to be deplored, I feel considerable relief." Throughout the rest of the day we anxiously awaited some fresh incident to satisfy the excited state of our feelings, for now our blood was up, and we were in for a scrimmage, we all thought that the sooner it were over the better. Scouts were sent out in all directions, but as yet they had brought in no news of importance. One man said that he had seen several armed men creeping stealthily along the path away to the north; but when the matter was fully inquired into, the supposed enemies turned out to be a number of our men who were out scouting also. As the shades of evening began to fall with that rapidity 303

SPORT IN ASHANTI which makes the approach of night so speedy, the hopes of the villagers began to rise that the Sankatanga people did not intend to molest them. "Okabai is but four hours' walk from Assahcoomah," said a youthful brave, "and if the Sankatangas intended to attack us they would have been here before now." "Quabna is a brave warrior, but he is like the young leopard. He runs into danger when he suspects nothing," replied an aged caboceer, whose scarred face showed that to him, at least, the toils of war were by no means unfamiliar. " 'Mensa is right," said Aloreymai, "the Sankatanga have not forgotten us. Gamolulu is sly, and as cunning as the hyvena; he will wait until we think he is not coming, and then pounce upon us when we are least expecting him. Beware of the darkness, for then Gamolulu is more to be feared than in the bright sunlight." "Well spoken, Moreymai," said Fortescue, "Gamolulu is even now perhaps but a short distance off, and when he thinks we are asleep, or not prepared, he will swoop down upon the village like the hawk upon the quarry." A murmur-of applause followed these speeches as Moreymai continued, "Let those who have the quickest ears and the longest eyesight keep on the look- out for the Sankatanga people. They have not forgotten us. They will come as surely as the sun will again rise over the forest on the hillside." "Let the others remain in the square ready to start up to repel our enemies, and let no man go to his house to sleep." Thus prepared, we spent the weary hours watching and waiting. To my ideas the expectancy of a fight is far worse, as regards its effect upon the spirits, than the hardest fought battle itself. True, any soldier's courage would fail if he had to wait calmly while the thunders of the fray boomed around him, and he was uncertain whether he would be shot down like a helpless coward, or be forced to surrender without having a chance to fight for his life and liberty. 304

THE A TTA CZ. "The feelings of an army on the eve of a great battle mus be very solemn and impressive. Who amongst us even, knows whether he will see the rising sun again ?" "Keep up your pluck, man. Don't begin to meditate upon what might be. Think only upon what you intend to do." It wanted but about an hour of sunrise when my attention was arrested by a sound proceeding from the forest. "Those are birds startled from their roosting-places," said I. ""We must be on the alert." Passing out into the square, I told Moreymai my suspicions, and had scarcely uttered the words than one of the scouts gave us the warning cry, and we knew that the enemy were upon Us. All was bustle and excitement as the warriors picked up their arms and hurried towards the gate. "Hold," said I. "Let not all of us go to the gate, otherwise Gamolulu will send round a body of men to attack by one of the other gates, and so take us in the rear. Let some of the men remain behind in the square, while others go to the other gates. Should they require assistance, they can send one of themselves to ask for it. Thus we shall be prepared for the worst." With a fearful outcry the Sankatanga warriors emerged from the plantations, and threw themselves on the gate, evidently expecting to find it open, and the inhabitants, unsuspecting of harm, locked fast in the arms of slumber. As they came rushing up in a compact mass, however, a welldirected fire from the guns of our party, supplemented by a thick flight of arrows, stopped the headlong onset of the enemy, and sent them staggering to the rear "Hurrah !" shouted Fortescue, "that's a warm reception for them. They are evidently taken by surprise. Victory is already ours." "Don't be counting your chickens before they are hatched," said I. "Perhaps that was only a mere handful compared with the host behind them." 305

SPORT IN AStANT. "Never mind, let them come on, we have a bullet for every one of them, be they ten thousand in number." For more than a quarter of an hour did we stand behind the row of palisades awaiting a fresh onset. Not a sound could be hard, and all was as dark as the grave. "I wish they would show themselves," said Fortescue. "It is galling to stand up here doing nothing." "Hush! there is something," said I, pointing to a dark object lying about fifty yards from the stockade. "That ? Yes, it is a tree-log; I noticed several as we came in this morning." " So did I, but I don't think that was one. I wish the moon would shine out again." Thick clouds were coursing each other across the sky, driven by a strong wind from the north-east. At one time the moon, now in her last quarter, would show a feeble light over the plain, while as her face became obscured, a darkness rendered more intense by the contrast followed. "There, I thought I was right," as the moon again shone out; "where is your log now ?" "You must be mistaken. There it is yet." "Yes, so it is; but it is nearly twenty yards nearer the stockade. Let me try and make the log jump." Taking steady aim at the supposed log, I fired; but just at that moment the moon became again obscured, and I fired in darkness. Nevertheless, a loud yell startled us, coming from the direction of the plain, and when the moon again shone out, the log had disappeared, as also had several others. "Ah! you were right after all. What could they be trying to do ?" "Trying to get close up to the stockade, where they could listen to what was going on, and if they found all safe, rush in and bring in their comrades." "Well, we've stopped that little game. But who would have P06

AM KING A L0 G _7 UMP. suspected such trickery ? Why, I had noticed that log for the last five minutes." "So had I, and had been making sure that it was not a log by narrowly watching it. Here they come again." This time there was no mistake about it too. On they came, pouring out of the wood, like a living avalanche, and hurling a perfect storm of bullets, arrows, and spears against the stockade. Luckily the posts were so closely planted together that but few on our side were wounded, while, as the enemy came rushing up, we poured in a deadly volley, which laid low many of the front ranks. "Go in, keep cool and aim low," shouted Fortescue, reloading his rifle. " We'll pepper 'em yet." This second repulse seemed to have taken all the courage out of the Sankatanga people, for they again wavered, and finally turned tail. "Hurrah!" shouted I. "We shall win after all." Again did the Sankatangas make a rush, and again were they repelled by our well- directed fire, though, in this instance, they came right on to the palisades, where several hand-to-hand figh 8 took place. However, the quick fire from our rifles again proved too much for them, and they retreated to the shelter of the woods. By this time it was broad daylight, and we determined that if they again came on we would make a sortie after them to follow up our advantage, and drive them off before they recovered from their confusion. Consequently, when they next came, a part of those who were provided with guns reserved their fire, and when they were thrown into confusion by our volley, they rushed out, and then the fight began in earnest. Elated by their success, the villagers rushed upon the Sankatangas with the fury of wild beasts at bay. Shouts, shrieks, and groans were heard on all sides, a swords flashed, and arrows whistled through the air. 307

SPORT IN ASHANTI. The fight was a series of hand-to-hand combats, as each warrior singled out an adversary for himself, and the two went at it hammer-and-tongs until one of them obtained the mastery. Melinda, with a party of about two hundred men, marched through the bush until they were able to come upon the flank of the enemy, who were thus thrown into worse confusion than before. The Sankatangas fought with the frenzy of men who felt that all depended upon their individual exertions, and as they were slowly, but surely, driven back from the palisades, they left numbers of their bodies lying stark upon the plain. Even those who were stricken down often made futile attempts to stab their enemies who came near them, or crawled, with the life-blood streaming out of their wounds, towards a prostrate foe, there to renew the contest, while the death-film itself was growing over the eyes of both of the combatants. The villagers shrieked and uttered the most fearful war cries, as they threw themselves upon the Sankatangas, cutting and slashing at them with their heavy broad-blade swords with the most savage fury. Utterly astounded at such an unwonted repulse, Gamolulu strove in vain to rally the declining spirits of his people, and when Fortescue and I issued from the gate and joined the me'lde, the panic was complete. Without stopping to pick up their wounded, they turned and ran, throwing away their weapons to expedite their flight. Shouting and yelling like so many demons, the Assahcoomahs rushed after them, showing no mercy to their flying enemies, even when they sued for their lives on bended knees. When their blood is up few people will fight with the savage fury of the African, but it takes but very little to cool his courage, and he is incapable of showing a bold front against any reverse of fortune. When all goes on well he is brave as a lion, but if he once receives a check, all his courage oozes out of his linger ends, and he becomes worse than iiseles". 308 tS PICTOR . The Sankatangas fled towards their camp, where they had. left but a small guard, as they expected to have been able to so thoroughly surprise the Assahcoomah people as to take them nearly all prisoners, so that none could fall upon their camp in their absence. The first comers spread the panic among the guards, who, with the dog in the manger spirit which pervades all savage minds, immediately commenced to butcher the wretched prisoners whom they had taken from 0kabai and other towns in their hitherto victorious expedition. Still, they were so hard pressed by the Assahcoomahs that, much as it was against their will, they were obliged to leave more than two hundred slaves, and fly for their lives. Content with pursuing them so far, and eager to secure the rich booty which had thus so suddenly fallen into their hands, the Assahcoomahs refrained from following up the fugitive Sankatangas beyond their camp, and as the pursuers came up they set busily to work to convey the slaves into the village. Around them all was rejoicing. The soldiers leaped and danced as they recounted the exploits they had performed that day, while they repeatedly turned to the long rows of slaves who were huddled up in the market-place, as they shouted, "Ha! ha! the Sankatangas thought they were brave men. See what they have done. They have fought and taken away many slaves, and then brought them to Assahcoomah, that we might take them. Truly, the Sankatangas are a cowardly and. foolish people." The dead bodies of the Sankatangas were dragged into the town, and. after being stripped and subjected to every indignity, thrown into a pit outside the stockade. Fortescue and I endeavoured, by every means in our power to prevent the horrible scenes which ensued, but without avail. As well might we strive to stay the onward progress of the tidal wave as attempt to the torrent of evil passions which raged in the breasts of the excited Assahcoomahs. P9

SPORT IN ASL4_ANTI. Notwithstanding the fatigues which the villagers had undergone during the last four-and-twenty hours, first by reason of the exorcism of the witches, and then by the preparations for the defence of the town and the fight after that, they immediately set up dancing and capering about as if they were only just warming into it. "Truly," said Fortescue, "these savages are as well up in the art of worrying themselves almost to death for the sake of amusement as the most civilized nation of Europe." Moreymai was profuse in his gratitude for our assistance to him in his hour of need, and placed the whole of the slaves captured from the Sankatanga at our disposal. We thanked him for his well-meaning generosity, but declined to accept the human presents. "Englishmen look with detestation and abhorrence at all traffic in their fellow- creatures," said Fortescue. " The moment you gave them to us they would become free, for by the law of England, no Englishman can own a slave." "If all Englishmen are like you, they are a fine people; but why are they so foolish as not to own slaves ? Such a notion is not good. They are not wise to set their slaves free." "How would you like to be a slave yourself, MoreymaiP" said I. This was rather a home thrust. He shrugged his shoulders, and after a little consideration replied, "But Moreymai is not a slave; he has never been a slave, nor his father, nor his father before him. How can he, therefore, tell you how he would like to be a slave, when he has had no ex. perience of such a thing? It is impossible." "It is all very well for you to say that you never were a slave, and, therefore, cannot form an opinion as to whether you would like to be one or not; but, tell me, would you like to be taken away from Assahcoomah, away from your wives and children, and never allowed to return?" "'M! Plenty more wives and children, I suppose, if I were taken away. There's not much hardship in that." 310

MORE YMAI ON SLA VERY. "Well, of all the apathetic beings I ever met with, Moreymai certainly is the most indifferent," said Fortescue. "Do you mean to tell me," continued I, "that you would not care whether you left your wives and #children, and never saw them again ?" "Oh! yes, for some time; but then we cannot all live together. By-and-by my children will leave me, and my wives will die, and then I shall be alone. It all comes to the same thing in the end." "Well, if such are your opinions, it is useless for me to attempt to show you the evils of slavery." "Slaves are very good. They work for their masters, and they eat and sleep and marry wives. What more can they want ?" "Liberty," said I. "They do not like to be driven about like so many sheep." "Liberty," said Moreymai, with a shrug of his shoulders and a curl of his lip expressing utter contempt. "What is liberty with an empty stomach? When a town is destroyed, the people would starve if their conquerors did not carry them off and make slaves of them. Since, however, you will not accept the slaves, that is no reason why you should go unrewarded. I, therefore, will give you my youngest daughters for your wives." "Thank you very much for the honour you do us. Nevertheless, we must decline. We could not take your daughters with us to England, and it is against our law to have more than one wife." "Only one wife," said Moreymai, laughing outright, while a titter of ridicule went the round of the assembly. Even the women grinned at such an unheard of custom. They shouted out the astounding news to their companions, and evidently thought that I had been spinning them a very tough yarn indeed. "AhI you are surely joking ? No man who could afford it would be content with one wife. It is too ridiculous." "N evertheless, it is true. Every Englishman has but 311

SPORT IN ASZIAATTI. one wife, and the law does not allow them to have two or more.1 "Well," said Fortescue, "I think, to judge from the looks of Mloreymai and his people, they must have a very singular idea of white people in general." "That's very likely; but I've no doubt that a negro's account of England would be as curious and one-sided as a white man's account of Africa." "Very likely. What do you say if we go and inspect the prisoners? We are in want of a few more carriers, and, perhaps, some of them would be willing to join us." Accompanied by Melinda, Moreymai, and a number of the caboceers, we went across the square to the place where the wretched beings, who had thus been twice captured, were located. We asked them if any would be willing to act as porters to us for a certain amount of pay. It would have given the heart of any philanthropist a world of pleasure to see the sudden start which the mention of pay gave to the unhappy beings. They stared in amazement as though the news were too good to be true. The idea that they were going to be sold into slavery was so thoroughly fixed in their minds, that the mere mention of pay for any work they might perform appeared too ridiculous. After repeating the question, the astonished captives became aware that we made the offer in all earnest, we were inundated with applicants. "Stop a moment," said Fortescue. "I can only take a dozen. "But," added he, "since Moreymai has offered them all to me, why should I not avail myself of the privilege, and set them all free ? Do you agree to that, Danvers ?" "Most readily; but we must obtain a promise from Moreymai that he will not molest them." We, therefore, acquainted the chief with our intention of accepting his former offer of all the captured slaves, but that we intended to set them free. We also expected him to use no un. 312

TWE CAPTIVES LIBERATED. due force to compel them to remain in Assahcoomah, but promised in return to use every endeavour to induce them to settle in the town, so that the power of Moreymai would be considerably enhanced thereby. With a keen perspicuity Moreymai saw at once that if we could induce the slaves taken by the Sankatangas to become his subjects, he would be in a position to defy Gamolulu should he ever make another attempt. He therefore readily assented to our demand, and we then announced our intentions to the captives. Contrary to our expectation they did not manifest any extraordinary emotion when we told them that they were free, but perhaps the sudden change from the prospect of a life-long slavery to that of perfect freedom was too sudden and too unparalleled for them to realize. The Okabai, however, preferred to return to their homes, and as we could not assign any plausible reason why they should remain with Moreymai rather than in their own village, they at once set out on their return home. The twelve captives we bad engaged to assist us in the transportation of our baggage were despatched to our quarters, while the others scattered themselves over the town, and, as it takes but little to constitute a home in the heart of Africa, before nightfall most of them had run up some sort of shelter, or had entered into the household of some more fortunate person. In the evening we paid a visit to our new men, and asked them several questions respecting their country and the manner in which they had fallen into the hands of the Sankatanga people. It was the same old story. A palaver originating in the merest trifle, had been taken up, first by one, and then by another, until nothing but bloodshed could appease the wrath of the dis. putants. In the dead of night the Saukatangas had fallen upon the villages, just as they had upon ours, only we were forewarned, and after slaughtering numb-.r of the half-awakened inhabitants 313

314 SPORT IN ASHAVTI. had carried off the remainder with the intention of selling them as slaves. Not one was there who had not seen a father, a brother, a sister, or a mother butchered before their eyes. "The life of these poor wretches must be one of ceaseless care and anxiety," said Fortescue. "I think not. You cannot suppose that in the low position they occupy in the scale of civilisation, their thoughts are such as would fill our minds if we were placed in a similar position. Let them but appease their animal desires, and they care but little for the future." "Very possibly you are right. Did you ever think of the future, Melinda ?" Scarcely had we uttered the name of our chief than one of the captives repeated it. "Melinda, Melinda," said he, "surely I have heard that name before." "Where ? Think. Are you not mistaken?" asked Melinda excitedly. "No, I must be wrong. Yet stay. No, I am sure I have heard it. Ah! now I remember, it was the name of a friend of a, young slave of the Addalundas, away to the westward." "Where? When did you see her ?" asked Melinda, hardly giving the man time to speak. "She was at Addalundah only four days ago. I saw her cutting wood." "What was she like? Oh! can it be Awoona P" exclaimed Melinda. "She was very light coloured. Almost as light as those white strangers, and her hair was long, not short and crisp like ours." "Yes,itmustbeAwoona. AtlastIhavefoundmy bride." "Be not too excited and anxious," said I. "Perhaps it is another maiden. Nevertheless, we will assist you to reclaim her."

NEWS OF A WOONA. 315 "Thanks. Thanks. Oh! noble white men, Melinda will for ever be grateful to you, should be recover his long-lost Awoona; and should he never see her again, his heart will still beat with the truest friendship for those brave white men who helped the black man to recover his early friend."

CHAPTER XVII. WE START ON OUR EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF AWOONA-RIVER SCENERYXING BANGALA OF ADDALUNDAH-HIS DUPLICITY-WE ARE NOT DECEIVED BY HIM-THE RESULTS OF MELINDA'S SCOUTING EXPEDITION~ AWOONA IS CARRIED OFF TO BANGALA'S PLANTATION-HIS INTENTIONS RESPECTING HER-MELINDA MISSES HIS QUIVER-WE GET A SIGHT 0F AWOONA AT LAST-SUCCESS OF OUR PLANS-AZIZA AND MELIrDA ARE NEARLY SHOT OVER A CATARACT AFTER consulting for some time as to the best means of procuring the release of Awoona, we resolved that Fortescue, Melinda, and I, with four of our attendants, should take a canoe and go down the river to Addalundah and endeavour to negotiate the release of the stolen girl. At the same time we were fully determined to carry her off by force if we found that her masters would not accede to any reasonable terms. Early-in the morning, therefore, we set out on our expedition, having provided ourselves with four days' provisions and a quantity of goods wherewith to purchase the girl. After a walk of about an hour we arrived at the village of Kangboden, situated on the banks of a stream flowing to the south-east. There we procured a large canoe, and, having embarked, we p ddled rapidly down the stream, which was somewhat swollen,

THE SEA A CH FOR A WO ONA. by reason of the rains, which had already set in on the mountains whence the stream derived its supply. Like all African rivers, the banks were fringed with a belt of mangroves, which, however, were of not such luxuriant, growth as they attain nearer the sea. Waterfowl, startled from their repose, flew cackling over our heads, while the splendid kingfishers darted through the overhanging branches like living gems, or, resting for an instant on one of the various roots, pounced down with unerring aim upon some luckless fish swimming beneath. From time to time we saw the hideous backs of alligators, or heard their bull-like voices resounding through the thickets; water-snakes swam across in front of our canoe, or remained motionless on the surface of the water, as though trying to imitate long sticks. Monkeys chattered in the tops of the trees, or took flying leaps from bough to bough as they were startled by our intrusion into their haunts, while splendid blue butterflies, which strongly reminded us of our own Argiolus, fluttered round the flowering plants, and often even came on board our canoe. After a progress of about five miles, we came upon the desolate spot where formerly a prosperous village had stood, but whose inhabitants had been swooped down upon by one of the neighbouring petty kings and carried into slavery; the devouring hand of fire had completed what the avarice of man had com. menced, and nothing but the charred and blackened posts of the houses and the still fresh and luxuriant bananas were left to tell that man had formerly dwelt there. A solitary vulture, sitting motionless on the top of a dead stump, eyed us as we passed, and then, as if he had formed but a sorry opinion of our intentions with respect to himself, bore himself away on lazily flapping wings. By noon we had approached as near to the village where we hoped to find Awoona as the stream would permit, and, dra-wing the canoe in shore and mooring her, by means of one of the long tough climbing plants, we set out on foot towards the town. ,3 T7

SPORT IN ASHA.NT1. A walk of ten minutes brought us within the sound of the numerous finches, which often congregate in thousands on one particular tree in the centre of a village, and in a few minutes we emerged from the plantations and entered Addalundah. Its appearance presented nothing different from any ordinary village; women were laboriously pounding corn in wooden mortars, while their lords were lazily mending fishing-nets, or dozing away their animal existence on mats spread beneath the shade of the nearest tree. A market in miniature was being held under a large spreading fig-tree, whose branches were crowded with the finches whose twittering had warned us of our approach to the village from afar. No sooner did the people catch sight of our white faces than they ceased their occupations and stared at us with the utmost astonishment. Children ran for protection to their parents, while even the very dogs sniffed at us, as if they suspected our errand was of no good portent to the inhabitants. Advancing to the centre of the village, we took up our station in the open space cleared for palavers and the frequent dances with which every African delights to fatigue himself. The chief man was duly informed of our arrival, and shortly after made his appearance, followed by ten slaves bearing the inevitable calabash of water with which to "cool our hearts." After saluting him and tasting the liquid, which was warm and muddier than usual, Melinda opened the conversation by asking Bangala, the caboceer, if he had heard of the attack upon Assah. coomah by the Sankatanga people. He exhibited the utmost surprise and consternation at the news, and said that no tidings of the attack had reached him, although some of the villagers had gone on a fishing expedition up the river nearly as far as Kangboden. Various topics were then entered into, and at last Melinda began the subject which was of so vital importance to his peace and happiness. "Years ago," said he, "a party of Arab traders came to th9 318

BANGA LA'S E Q Ui VO CA TION 3. ]Rabbarori and purchased some slaves, who had been taken by them; among them was a young girl named Awoona, who was the wife of one of the captives from Zoglogbomey. We had heard that she had been seen in this village, and had come to offer to purchase her." The countenance of the old villain became immediately overcast, and after a brief pause he said, "Why should the white people come to Bangala to ask about one slave? Are there not many slaves in other towns that they must come to him for one ? " "But we are looking for one in particular; Awoona is the wife of one of our friends, and we have travelled far to discover her." "Why should Awoona be in Bangala's village ? If she was taken by the Arab traders, she would have been sold to the people away towards the rising sun." "But we know that, although she was sold to the AsLantees, she was resold to one of the slave traders from the north; we have heard that she is in this country, and are determined to find her out." Bangala shook his head. "I have not seen your slave; better if you went to the Sapatam people; they have many slaves, perhaps you would find her among them." "We will not go to the Sapatam people until we are sure she is not here. Have you seen Awoona in your village ?" The caboceer, turning to one of his attendants, gave some orders to him in a whisper, and the slave at once ran off in the direction of Bangala's house. Then, shaking his head dubiously, he answered, "Why should Awoona be here ? There are many, many other villages which have slaves; she may be in one of them." "The old villain is equivocating," said Foitescue aside to me; "I fully believe he is the owner of Awoona, and has sent his slave to carry her out of the way. For some reason or other, h. does not intend to part with her." Melinda then continued, "If you have ever seen Awoona 31'9

SPORT IN ASHANTI. you could not have forgotten her; she was handsome above ali other women, and her hair fell down upon her shoulders; she was not like the women of this country, her skin was sleek and brown, and her form graceful as that of the gazelle." Again did Bangala shake his head, muttering something between his teeth. "If the white strangers wish to purchase slaves, there are some here they can buy; why should they trouble about one in particular ? " "The stupid fool! " said Fortescue to me with some warmth; and although the caboceer did not understand one single word he uttered, yet he could gather by the tone that Fortescue was get. ting impatient. "Why does the white man get vexed with Bangala? Because he has not the slave he seeks, is that any reason why he should pick a quarrel with him ? It is not good." "But we are sure that Awoona was here only a few days ago. Why should Bangala seek to deceive us ? If she is here we will buy her for our friend, and pay such a price for her as Bangala never before received for two slaves." " Bangala has not seen Awoona. He has a fine slave he will sell to the white man for powder and guns." "The old villain is telling lies," said Fortescue; "you can see them rolling out of his lips every time he opens them." "Bangala is saying that which is not. We know Awoona is here, and we will not leave until we have found her." "Do the white people come to Bangala to throw his words in his teeth ? Awoona is not here; if she were he would have told them so." "Then why did you send your slave with a secret message to your house when we mentioned Awoona? " This question appeared to disconcert the prevaricating old sinner, and for some moments he could not answer. At last, amidst some confusion, he said, "Cannot a caboceer send away one of his slaves without vexing 320

IL-hVGALA OUTVWIIPD. 'his friends P Let them go to the Sapatam people; there they will perhaps find Awoona." "We will not go, neither will we believe you have not seen Awoona. We came with a good palaver, and if Bangala tells us lies we will not listen to them; we know that Awoona was here four days ago, and if Bangala will deceive us, we will search for her ourselves. Bangala m3y be a great chief, but he says the thing which is not." The caboeeer upon this fied up and declared that he had not seen Awoona, and that we should not search his house for her. "I am more than ever convinced that Awoona is in the lying old villain's possession," said Fortescue. "We will try to get her by fair means, but, by George! we will take her from under his eyes if he will not listen to reason." "Let the white people seek Awoona in another village. The ralaver is set." Upon this the caboceer walked away in high dudgeon, leaving us still in doubt as to whether Awoona really were there or not. "What are we to do ?" said I; "we are not strong enough to make a raid upon the village." "Let us go away, as if we believed the old chief; we can Ele in wait outside, and when it is dark creep up to the houses and try to discover her." As this seemed to be the most practicable method of procedure, we got up and, after telling the attendants of Bangala, who still remained, that we would leave the village, took our way towards the road leading to Sapatam. We had better baste away while there is any probability of our being watched; Bangala is sly enough to send out one of his 1lople to scout round us to ascertain our intentions." We therefore marched steadily along the narrow pathway which led to Sapatam for more than three miles, when, making a sharp turn to the right, we arrived by a circuitous route on the Fame bide of the village as we had entered it, and, having stumbiLd ulon a sntg little valley shut out from all observation by thickets of fern, we spread out our mats and fell to upon our sit:

SPORT IN ASIIANTI. provisions, and did ample justice thereto, for we had been fasting since daylight. We then determined that Aziza and Melinda should proceed to the village just at sundown and endeavour to obtain information of the whereabouts of Awoona, for we had fully come to the conclusion that she was in the village, and bad been inten*tlonally put out of our way for some unknown purpose. An the shades of nig1t bergan to deepen, Fortescue and I crouched down between the buttresses of a gigantic cotton-tree some two hundred yards in the rear of the village, which consistel but of a single street, and waited for something to turn up. Melinda and Aziza had gone off on their scouting expedition jut before sunset, and we hoped to be able to pick up some infbrmation respecting the lost Awoona upon which we could form our plans of proceeding for the next day. The "tweet-twoo " of the owls, and the hoarse voices of the myriad bull-frogs arose from the swampy ground near the river, and the unearthly laughter of the hyaena occasionally startled us, as the unclean feeder prowled around on the look- out for its unsavoury food. Ofttimes were we startled by the rustle of a snake, as it glided through the fallen leaves, and once we were suddenly brought to our feet by an enormous centipede, which dropped from the boughs of the tree above us close by our side ; however, a stamp with our iron-heeled boots soon sent him to kingdom come, and after that we had no more visitors, though the forest around still re-echoed with the voices of the night-feeding creation' Suddenly Melinda stood before us, walking over the soft turf with his naked feet with no more noise than the passage of a spectre would create. Well, my friend, any news?" asked I. Stooping low he whispered, "She is here; I have not seen her, but T overheard Bangala giving orders for her to be conveyed to. morrow to his plantation down the river some miles away."

AWOONA IS SNT AWAY. "Then cannot we do anything to-night ? Could we not suddenly enter Bangala's house and carry her off before they could raise the alarm? Once on board our canoe, and they would never have a chance of retaking her." "No, it is not to be done; I do not think she is in Bangala's house." "Then there is nothing to be done but to wait. Do you know where Bangala's plantation is situated ? "Yes, it is on the riverside just above the falls ; it is a lonely place, and if we cannot secure her on her way there, we shall be sure of being able to do so at the plantation without Bangala aends a guard with her, and I don't think that is very likely." Just at this moment Aziza came up. "Awoona is here," said lie, "I have seen her; she has been carried off in the direction of the river by four of Bangala's people. They marched silently, as if in fear of discovery, and Awoona's hands were bound behind her, and she was gagged." "The cruel wretches! What can be the intention of Bangala in keeping her? "I have heard the people talking about Awoona. Gedevay, the chief of Alladonga, has entered into a compact witi Bangala to give him four women slaves and three guns for Awoona as his wife; the wedding is to take place at the next now moon, and Bangala hopes to settle all the palavers between his people and Gedevay's by the marriage. In return Bangala will marry one of Gedevay's daughters, and thus the two towns will be amicably connected." "So that explains the reason for Bangala concealing the fact of Awoona being here; I wondered what it could be that prevented him, from accepting our munificent offer to purchase her. However, we will get Awoona in spite of Bangala's treachery." " What is to be done now? Is it any use following up the trail of the party who are conveying Awoona to the plantation?" "I think not; we should be no further ahead than if we waited till daylight, when we should have a better chance of effecting our escape. Can you suggest anything, Melinda?" -3 Z3

SPORT IN ASIJANTI. "No. Awoona will be safe in the plantation, and most likely the guards who conveyed her there will deliver her into the charge of sorre of Bangala's wives, who are planting maize, so that we shall have fewer people to oppose us." " Good! then we will return to the canoe for our mats and rugs, fbr it is chilly out here without some shelter from the he.avy dew ; everything is as wet as if there had been a smart shower." "Aye, and if you wish to get an attack of fever, the best way of doing so is to sleep out exposed to the dew; at the same time it is not advisable to remain in the canoe all night, for the malaria from the mangroves is terrible in its effects, especially as we are tired with our long day's work." "Let us get down to the canoe then, and while we are arranging our sleeping paraphernalia let some of the men light a fire and get us some coffee, for I feel as hungry as if I could eat a nigger." Having obtained our traps from the canoe, we left the deadly belt of mangroves and encamped under a tree, having taken the precaution to cross the river, so that we might be under no appreheiision that any prowling native might discover us. Melinda then found to his dismay that lie had dropped his small quiver while he was reconnoitring the village, and appeared to be very much put out thereat. "The quiver was worked by Awoona, just before the unlucky day when the IRabbarori separated us; throughout all the toils and trials of my slavery I still kept it by me, and now that it is lost I fear I shall never again see Awoona." "Oh! cheer up, who knows that the mere dropping of the quiver will not eventually be of service to us? We must iind mill succeed in recovering Awoona." Meanwhile the men had been collecting all the old decayed branches they could find, for a fire was necessary, not only for" comfort but as a protection, for the neighbourhood was knoUn to abound in leopard, and other wild beasts, whose presence was anything but desirable. 3:24

4 WOON,4 DISCO VERED. Having collected a goodly supply of dry leaves and twigs, which were placed on the ground between two stones, a small quantity of powder was sprinkhd over this rude kind of tinder, and then one of the porters snapped off his flint gun and the sparks being caught by the powder, a flame speedily arose. Then some leaves, withes, and small boughs were heaped on, and as they blazed up, the larger branches were placed slopingly upon the pile, and thus we soon bad a fire which was like a companion to us, for a night in the forest without a fire is very dismal, even to the most enthusiastic sportsman. By daylight the next morning we were all astir, and, having made a hearty breakfast, we launched the canoe and paddled down the stream on our way to the plantation of Bangala. When we arrived at the bend in the river, on the far side of which we expected to come into view of the plantation, we pulled the canoe in shore and carefully concealed it; then stealthily creeping along the banks of the stream, we cautiously peered through the branches of the trees, in hopes of discovering the plantation house within whose walls we expected to find the object of our search. We had crawled, rather than walked, for more than a mile, when suddenly Melinda, putting his finger to his lips, motioned us to keep perfectly still. Then, pointing through the thicket, he whispered, "There is Awoona, but some one is with her." Crouching low down amor g the dense foliage, we managed to work our way several yards further, and then, finding further progress impossible, we paused and awaited the turn of events. Awoona was standing talking to an old crone, who appeared to be giving orders to her which she was by no means incliued to obey. For several minutes did we keep ourselves in the constrained position we were forced to occupy to avoid discovery, while we fervently i ished the old woman a thousand miles away, in order that we might give Awoona a hint of our being so near at hand. Saddenly she turned and, accompanied by the old woman walked in our direction, as if she knew we were there. 325

SPORT IN ASHANTI. To my surprise she held in her hand the quiver Which Melinda had lost the night before, and it appeared to be thd object of contention between the two women. The old hag wished to get possession of it, probably to present to her master, while Awoona strenuously opposed any such appropriation of what she considered to be her own property, since she had found it. " Why should I give you the quiver P I will show you how to make one like it, for in my own country I often worked at such things," said Awoona, as she stopped just as we were onthe point of revealing ourselves, for discovery seemed imminent. "But I say you must give it me; Bangala does not allow any of his slaves to retain such things, and, although you are goingo to marry a great chief, yet he will not permit you to retain the quiver." "No, I will never part with it," said Awoona, stamping her foot; "you may try to get it from me by force or by stratagem,but with my consent it shall never be yours." The old woman then left Awoona in high dudgeon, and, as she passed out of sight, we saw the tears glistening in the poor girl's eyes as she looked at the quiver. "Alas! and is Melinda then for ever separated from me by cruel fate ? Is he dead, that his quiver has been found near our village, or can it be-oh ! joy at the thought-can it be thathe himself is near, and has left it that I might know by it that he is still searching for me? These words mingled with her tears as she caressed the quiver, and, with hearts throbbing all the time, we curbed our impatience until an opportunity offered of revealing ourselves to her, for we dreaded that if we showed ourselves at that time she would be so friightened at the instant that she A ould scream out, and thus give the alarm to several women whom we saw moving about, while in the plantaticn, but a hundred yards off, we saw thirty or forty slaves who would at once hurry to the rescue if we at. tempted to carry her off by force. Dashing. the tears from her cheeks, she went back to the 326 A WOONA RECO VERED A T LAST. house, and soon emerged carrying one of the large jars on her head in which the natives of Africa fetch their water from the spring. "Here's the chance," whispered Fiortescue; "let Melinda speak to her and tell her we are here to save her when she arrives at the riverside, and then all is saved." We anxiously waited till Awoona had reached the water, where she filled her jar, and then sat dowi on the bank, apparently meditating upon her sad fate. Then she began to sing one of the songs of her native land' one I had often heard Melinda singing as he sat looking witIt downcast eyes and far-distant thoughts into our lonely watchfire. Melinda re-echoed the song, repeating the words with increasing distinctness. At first Awoona seemed to think her imagination had been deceiving her as she paused for an instant, then she started up and advanced rapidly with outstretched arms and eager look towards the spot where we lay concealed. Mielinda could ni longer restrain himself, but sprang up and rushed towards her; she instantly stopped and, uttering a faint cry, was about to fly from us. "Awoona, my long-lost Awoona! it is your own Melinda." She instantly recognised his voice, and, flying towards him, threw herself into his arms, and sobbed as if her heart would break. Melinda held her thus for some minutes without being able to utter a word, while he strove to keep down the rising tears for the sake of his manhood. Even Fortescue and I were greatly affected by this meeting of the lovers, and I must confess to turning away and biting my lip till it bled so that Fortescue should not see my emotion; he, however, with an excuse that I could readily see through, turned his back on me as he pretended to be examining tbo lock of his gun. "Melinda, my own dear Melinda! I can scarcely believe this, and yet my heart told me that if you still lived and had your freedom you woul4 pg9en gnd search for me,-that you would S27

SPORT IVASHANT. not believe me dead, and that you could never leave your own Awoona in the power of strangers without raising your hand. to help me." "Indeed, I never would, Awoona. I was sold to the Ashantces, but regained my liberty in a short time; I knew you were sold to the same people, and therefore remained among them. For many moons I sought you in vain, and at length learned that you wore again sold to the tribes in the north; sick at heart I set out to look for you, When I met these white friends, who were going into the same country, and owing to their assistance I have found you at last." For the first time Awoona seemed to be aware of the presence of Fortescue and myself, and with averted looks she thanked us in her own language for aiding her husband to recover his bride. For several minutes Melinda and Awoona sat down side by side with their bands clasped in each other's, until the necessity for action aroused us, and I said to Melinda, "Come, we must be away Lefore Awoona is missed; let us hasten to the canoe, that we may get beyond the reach of Bangala's people before they discover our prcsence." " We cannot go down stream," said Melinda, "for just below is a rapid and a waterfall, while we cannot rass Bangala's place in da light ; we must cross to the other side and wait till daiikness comes on." Hastening through the tangled undergrowth towards the place where we had left the canoe, we soon arrived at the spot, but, alas! no canoe was to be found. In vain did we search up and down the bank, thinking that, owing to the similitude of the bush, we bad mistaken the spot,, but no canoe could we see. "Ila! " said Melinda, "perhaps Bangala, suspecting our design, has followed us and discovered our canoe." "No, le has not," said Fortescue, "for there is the runaway. Look among the reeds on the other side and y-ou will see one C-11d protruding." 323

IN FEARFUL PERIL. Glaneing in the direction in which Fortescue was pointing, we saw the canoe stuck fast in some reeds, it having broken adrift and floated across. "Here's a go," said Fortescue, "there's no swimming here; the gauntlet between alligators and snakes ip too much for any man." "Oh ! we'll get on all right," said T, "never fear. Melinda, Aziza, and the four porters at once set to cutting down several small trees which grew near the side, wberewiLh to form a raft, for there were no reeds to make a raft of, as hal been done on a former occasion. The tree-trunks were cut into four-foot lengths and lashed side by side with the tough stringy bark of the palm; then, lop. ping off one of the branches of a sirnona-tree, which made au excellent substitute for a paddle, Aziza stepped upon the frail craft and launched himself upou the stream. After paddling out fro, the shelter of the mangroves, we saw to our horror that he was incapable of stemming the current by means of his rude paddle and still ruder vessel, and that lie was slowly but surely being carried down the stream towards the waterfa.l, whose booming roar sounded on our ears. Without a moment's hesitation, Melinda sprang into the water and swam out to join Aziza on the raft, heedless of any alligators that might be lying in wait for their breakfast. At the same time one of the porters plunged in and began to swim over, making an oblique course across the stream, so as to arrive opposite our strayed canoe when he got to the other side; then, springing on board, he soon brought the canoe over to our side by a few vigorous strokes of his paddle. We were quickly on board, and, seizing the paddles, we urged the canoe into the stream, in hopes of overtaking Melinda and Aziza before they were so far drawn into the current as to give us no hopes of their being saved. But, alas! we were too late. Although the raft, being heavy, did not make very rapid progress, yet the delay occasioned by the rorter bringing across the canoe was sufficient to permit it to get well into tle rift, and the pqwer 9f tho 329

SP O T IN A SHA.NTL current on our canoe was already almost too much for us to stem it. With saddened hearts therefore we reluctantly were obliged to paddle ashore, when, fixing the canoe securely by its painter of twisted cocoanut fibre, we rushed along the bank with a fear. ful portent that we were only going to witness the death scene of our two brave chiefs. With a shriek Awoona fell on the ground as she gazed hope. lessly on the waters, which began to boil like a cauldron as they rushed to throw themselves over the cataract. I shouted to the two men to spring cff the-raft and try to save themselves by swimming, but my voice was drowned in the roar of waters. The sullen roar of the cataract boomed ominously on our ears, and, after making one or two desperate efforts, the two men seemed to resign themselves to their fate, for they became aware that all resistance was useless to overcome the terrible power of the current. Death staring them in the face, however, did nob cause them to despair, though the case seemed hopeless as, waving their hands, they disappeared over the chasm. But only for an instant. At the moment the raft shot over the waterfall with the velocity of an arrow from a bow, they grasped at the boughs which overhung the cataract, and, by what seemed superhuman efforts, swung themselves up into the tree. For an instant we scarcely dared breathe, so intense was the excitement, as we saw them crawl along the boughs, and finally leap exultingly to the shore. "Saved, thank Heaven!" we cried, while Awoona could not restrain her tears for joy at the providential deliverance of her newly-found husband. But the terrible events of the past few moments were too much for even the iron frames of our two hunters; scarcely had they reached the shore than they reeled and fell, and as we rushed up we could see the tremulous quivering of their limbs, while the perspiration dropped from their brows upon the earth around them. 3 30

SA VED FR OMf DEA T.3 The danger they bad escaped was terrible, and it was not easy for them to realise the fact that they had avoided their imminent destruction. When they had sufficiently recovered themselves we proceeded to the canoe, and, having deposited Awoona on a scat in the centre, we set out and paddled up stream as fast as we possibly could; we had of course to pass by the landingplace of Bangala's plantation, but, though we gazed with anxious eyes at the path leading to the huts, we could not discover any person. As we afterwards found, however, we were discovered by the old hag who had insisted upon Awoona giving her IfMelinda's quiver. "There, you see, Mfelinda," said I, when we had passed the dangerous spot, "I told you some good might come out of your loss of the quiver. If you had not dropped it Awoona could noi have found it, and she would not have had a warning that you were near." " Oh, yes! my heart leaped almost out of my bosom when first I saw Melinda's quiver; well do I remember embroidering it with beads and shell-work in my own happy hiome, now, alasl far away. Then I thought that Melinda must be dead, and that his quiver had been taken by some one; then my heart grew sad, and I thought that the Great Spirit had forgotten me." We had by this time gone as far up stream as we dared, for fear of being discovered by some of Bangala's people, and consequently lauded, and carefully disguising the canoe, by means of boughs and leafy twigs, taking also particular care that she should not again come adrift and lead us into another adventure, we halted until darkness should set in in the midst of a shady dell on the right bank of the river, Bangala's town being on the left. 331

CHPTER XVIII. &WOONA'S NARTRATIVE-iIE T THRICE SOLD AS A SLAVE-IER NARROW ESCAPE CF BEING BE-MARRIED-WE START ON OUR CANOE JOURNEYNARROW ESCAPE OF BEING DISCOVERED-ANOTHER SHAVE-WE ARE FIRED AT BY BANGALA-THE FIGHT-RUNNING THE GAUNTLET-SAYS ARRIVAL AT ASSARCOoMAHR-THE KING'S OPINION OF ENGLISHMEN. As we watched the smoke gracefully coil upwards from our pipes A woona related the adventures which had beilleu her since she was separated from Melinda. When her husband was sold to the Ashantee caboccer to be conveyed to Coomassie, Awoona's heart ached as if it would break at the terrible separation to which she was subjected. She, a princess, the fbndly-loved daughter of a king, at whose very look hundreds of willing hands were ready to perform the slightest office, was now a slave, wearily dragging her tired and wounded limbs along as the slave-gang slowly marched away from Toganda, where Melinda had been sold. She who but a few weeks before had been the bride of a noble youth, was now pining in captivity without a single friend to protect her from the rude assaults or coarse insults of her cruel captors. And where was Melinda ? Where was the noble husband to wItom she had only just been wedded when the cruel Rabbarori tore her away ? W here! a, w here

A WOONA'S NARRATIVE. 333 -Perhaps toiling with broken spirit in the maize fields of his master-he who formerly had never degraded himself to any manual work. Perhaps suffering the most excruciating torture as a sacrifice to the sanguinary Moloebs of Ashanti, or, worse fate, yet not worse for him, perhaps lie was already dead-his proud heart broken by the severity of his misfortunes. When Melinda was sold, Awoona seemed to have lost the only hope that kept her spirits from drooping. With him near her she elt that, however impossible it might be, yet she still bad a protector near her. But when he was sold to the Ashantee caboceer, she would fain have laid down her wearied, sorrow-stricken head upon the hard sun-baked gr. und and calmly wait for death. This consolation, however, was not allowed her. The slavegangers with their cru(1 whips of hippopotamus hide would allow no sentimental feelings in their property. As slaves, they were not supposed to have even that affection for one another which is acknoii ledged to exist even among the brute beasts. With cruel blows which cut into her delicate flesh like rods of red-hot steel, she was driven on and on until she felt that she could go no further. From being a plump and buxom maiden she had fallen away to a mere shadow of her former self, while the fire in her eyes was quenched, and all the light- heartedness with which she was accustomed to while away the sunny hours lid given place to a brooding despondency which almost threatened to britg her to the grave. But, happily, five days after Melinda had been so cru lly separated from her, she was purchased by another Ashantee caboeer as a present for his principal wife, and the hope which sprang up in her bosom, that while still in the same country as her husband, there yet remained the chance of her again meeting him, revived her drooping spirits. Widono, the caboceer who had purchased her, was a man of fierce passions, although ordinarily he was by no means a bad master; sometimes he would break out into a rage which was

SPORT IN A SHA TVTZ perfectly demonish in its violence. The merest trifle upon these occasions was sufficient to put him into a towering passion, and lie would commit acts for which he would be heartily sorry when the fit was over. One day one of his slaves had offended him, and, as a natural result, nothing could be said or done to please him. Poor Awoona, whose oflice it was to assist the wives of the caboceer to bring in the great man's dinner, rendered nervous by- his furious rage, stumbled and dropped a calabash of sweetmeats of which he was immoderately fond. Without saying a word he rose and felled her to the earth, and then calling to his slaves, bade them take her at once to the house where one of the caboceers who lived on the northern frontier was staying during his annual visit to the court of Coomassie, and sell her for whatever she would fetch. In the morning, when his excitement had somewhat cooled down, Widono sent to the caboceer to ask him to restore Awoona, but learned to his manifest chagrin that he had started before daylight for his own town, and was then miles away on the road. Vexed with himself at his hastiness, for he really liked Awoona, whose skill in cookery and the art of embroidery really made her a valuable servant, he despatched a messenger after the caboceer, offering to buy back Awoona for double the price, he had received for her. The messenger did not overtake tie corte'fe of the caboceer until it was far on its way to the northern frontier, and then he found that he was again too late ; for Awoona had been re-sold to Deunang, a petty trader who brought salt from Coomassie to the towns in the north of Ashanti. After wandering about from place to place with Demang, whose business carried him amongst all the tribes settled on the northern frontier, where he purclased ivory in exchange for salt, Awoona was finally handed over to Bangala, who gave Demang two splendid elephant's tusks for her. With him she remaitied until sh!e waQ recued by us, and, as 334

.HAPPY A T LAS. we already knew, we were just in the nick of time to save her from being married to the king of the adjoining town. "But did you never hear or see anything of Melinda while you were in Coomassie?" asked Fortescue. "No; we did not live in Coomassie itself, but on a plantation six miles away, on the road to Dwabin." "And did you never come to Coomassie with your mistress?" "Never. I was only once in Coomassie, and that was when I was brought through after being purchased from the Arabs." "Strange that no tidings of our being so near to each other should ever have reached us," said Melinda. "I often asked the women of the caboceer's household if they ever heard of a slave called Melinda, but they always shook their heads." "' No,' said they, ' we do not hear the names of many slaves. In Coomassie there are always thousands of slaves going and returning with their masters. Who can tell one slave from another ? ' "Nevertheless," continued Awoona, "I never despaired of seeing you again. I felt that one day we should be reunited, and joy is with me now that that happy day has arrived." "Ah! Awoona," said Melinda, while the tears moistened his eyes, "often have I wearily paced the narrow courtyard of my master yearning for my freedom, thinking that when I could wander over the land in search of you I should find you, but even when I had been made a caboceer, the probability of our ever meeting again seemed as far distant as ever. Often have I gazed at the stars, as I lay sleeplessly tossing upon my mat during the silent hours of the night, wondering whether you also were looking at those stars. And then there would come an inward feeling which reassured me that, if I waited but a little longer, I should find you again." "So have I too watched the twinkling stars while I thought of you, and I too have been comforted as I thought that, rper. liaps, our eyes were both directed to the same star, and that thus our hearts might,. qs it were, be united." SPOPRT IN ASRA YTL "Let us now forget our troubles. We will never, never ie again separated, Awoona, now we have found each other. But let us get down to the sea, and we will go in the fast ships of the white strangers, which will quickly carry us back to our beloved home oa the Niger. Would that we could find all our friends awaiting us to welcome us back again to the stool of our fathers. But, alas! such cannot be. Our fathers have long since mouldered away, and our people think that their king and their king's daughter are pining in captivity far, far away, or that they are already gone to meet their parents in the land of spirits. Alas! I fear we shall find things greatly changed." By this time the sun was rapidly descending behind the tops of the forest-trees, and we prepared to run the gauntlet past Bangala's town. Silently we unmoored the canoe, and, stepping into it, a igor'ous push from the strong arm of A ziza sent it gurgling into the middle of the stream. A thin blue mist was rising from the surface of the water, which was favourable to our travellers, inasmuch as it prevented them from being seen from so great a distance as they would have been on a moonlight and clear night; while, on the other hand, it rendered the possibility of their running headlong iato the very danger they wished to avoid, a matter of no very great improbability by reason of the short range of the vision. The paddles were dipped in the water with slow but powerful sWrokcs, which sent the boat rippling through the leaden waters at considerable speed. Not a word was uttered above a whisper, for on the surface of water sound travels for a greater distance than on land. Melinda sat in the bow eagerly scanning the surface of the river as well as the increasing fog would allow him, while Fortescue and I " atched the right and left banks respectively. Our greatest d:nger lay in meeting one of the canoes of Bangala going up to the plamtation for yams and maize for :the next .day's consurmption, and from time to time we ceased paddling and let the bca'It glide along by her own -momentum, while we listened to catch 336

SCOUTS AHEAD. the swish-swish of the paddles of any canoe which might be approaching. Just as we rounded the bend at the end of which Bangala's town was situated, the quick eye of Melinda detected a black spot in the middle of the stream. Raising his hand to enforce silence, we all ceased paddling and gazed eagerly at the object which had attracted our attention. "Is it a canoe?" whispered Fortescue o me. "I don't know yet. It may be a canoe, or a floating log, or an alligator. Whichever it is we shall know in a very few minutes. What do you make it out to be, Melinda ?" "A canoe, I think, but I cannot yet see clearly which it is. We will pull the canoe close under these mangroves, and wait until it has passed, or until we can see what it is." Cautiously, without making any rustling among the branches of the mangroves or without running the sides of the canoe against any of the aerial roots, when it would have given out a hollow sound which could be heard half a mile away, we dragged the canoe beneath the deep shadow of the over-hanging mangroves. There we were secure from observation unless some one passing along the shore or the river peered into the bushes, while through the interstices of the network of boughs and branches we had a clear view of the river for three hundred yards up and down. For several minutes we were kept in a perplexing suspense as to the nature of the dark objects, whose appearance had so alarmed us; until, as the fog lifted for an instant, we saw a large canoe with six men in it being slowly propelled down the stream. "Good Heavens!" said Fortescue, "they are evidently searching for something, why else should they cross so frequently from one side of the river to the other ?" "Hush! " said Meliuda, in a low whisper; "they have certainly obtained information of our presence upon the river, while possibly the news of the escape of Awoona has reached them." "They are cunning el.ough to know that if we went up the 337

SPORT LV ASHANTI. river to the 13antation we must return by the same route, so they are searching for us." "If we are discovered," said 1, "we will pour in a volley, and then make a dash for it. If we can only get past Banga'a's town without being stopped we are safe, for they have no canoe which is so fast as ours." "That is good," said Melinda, "but they approach, let Uis trust that they will not see us." The reconnoitring canoe, after crossing the river several times, had arrived at a point just above us, and was now crossing to our side. The suspense was dreadful. If they came in shore at the spot where we lay ensconced, they must discover us, while if' they ran in just above or below we must escape. The canoe, however, was heading straight across for us, as If the steersman knew we were lying concealed. Holding our breath, Fortescue and I grasped our revolvers, while Melinda and Aziza noiselessly cocked their guns. Still, on it came, when, just as we were about to fire, the steersman gave a lateral stroke with his paddle, and the canoe ian into the mangroves about ten yards below us. We were by no means free yet, for the quick eyes of the canoemen were roaming all through the dark shadows of the mangroves. "Are you sure the old woman did not tell Bangala false?" said one of the men in a low tone, but which was perfectly audible to us. " Quite sure. She said that Awoona went to fetch some water from the stream, and, as she was gone a long time, she followed her. On the bank she saw her water-jar and the print of the feet of several men, amongst them one of the kind that white men make with their curious feet-covers. While looking about, she saw a canoe come by on the other side 6f 'the river -with Awoona sittingini it between two white .men, and 4i are sure they have not passed us -as yet ?" "Quite sure. Bangala --has been lying iin wait-for- them all day at the town- lauding, and he has not seen them pass:." 338

. TERRIBLE FA TS. "But do you think they passed before the old woman brougit the news to Bangala?" " No; for it is nearer by the foot-path than by the river. Aye! and Jilolo came down the river from the old village, where he had been trapping monkeys, and he had not seen them." "No, they cannot have passed us," answered one of the other boatmen. "Bangala is very vexed. If he should get Awoona again lie will kill her for the fetiche." Awoona, who distinctly heard this awful news, gave a very perceptible shudder, and it required all her fortitude to prevent herself from uttering a shriek of terror. "Then perhaps Akmooleh was right. He said he saw a canoe on the river, but now where can they have gone ? They are not above us, so they must have seen us and pulled into the mangroves. We will search more closely for it." "Bangala has promised one of his daughters to the man who first brings Awoona to him. Why is he so anxious to warry her to Gedevay ? " " The fetiche says that if he does not do so his town will be broken." "Aye! and not only that; but Gedevay, the king, says thab if he does not let him have her for his wife, he will come and break Bangala's town." "Well, let us get on with our search. Push off the canoe, Akmooleh." The canoe was then again launched into the stream much to our relief, for, as may be imagined, we scarcely dared to breathe while they continued so close to us. As they paddled away, the hope that we should yet escape gradually gained strength within us, and as soon as they had disappeared round the bend, we cautiously thrust 'out the canoe from her hiding-place, and once more began 'to paddle iip stream. Melinda then beckoned for me to put my ear close, when !he 'Whispered, "There were but six men in the canoe. If Furteseue, Awe.Qna, 339

SPORT IN A SHA NT1. and yourself lie down in the canoe so that you cannot be seen, the four boatmen, Aziza, and myself will be only six, and they may take us for their own boatmen, and if they call out to us we can answer in their own language." "A very good thought," said I, and, communicating the idea to ]?ortescue and Awoona, we lay flat down in the canoe, though we afterwards confessed that it was by no means a comfortable position. The boatmen, assisted by Melinda and Aziza, now wielded their paddles with increased vigour, and we soon found ourselves dancing over the waters of the river with considerable speed. Suddenly a canoe shot out of the shadows of the mangroves and bailed us. Melinda answered them in a disguised voice without ceasing the motion of his paddle for an instant, and the boatmen, apparently satisfied, turned their canoe down stream and left us to pursue our way. "Another lion in the path got over," said I. "Yes ; but we have not yet-passed the village. We are close upon it, and the next five minutes will decide our luck." However, we were not destined to get off scot-free, for, as the canoe was rapidly urged along opposite the lauding-place of Bangala's town, four canoes pushed off from the shore and paddled after us with all their might, while another shot out from the mangroves ahead of us, with the evident intention of cutting off our retreat. "Well, now that we are discovered, it's no use getting cooped up here like a duck in trousers," said Fortescue. "We'll give 'em pepper if they mean mischief." Just as he spoke, a tongue of fire shot out from the leading boat in pursuit, while the stunning report was followed by the cluck of the bullet as it struck the water by the side of the boat. "Give way, my lads! give way!" shouted I, preparing to rethrp the complimepit? w-he auther and InQther shot was fired, 340

AN PXCITINVG PURSUIT. the missiles hurtlthg past us and splashing up the water several yards ahead. "This game won't do anyhow," said Fortescue. "Let's show them that we also can play at it." Saying this, he levelled his rifle at the foremost boat and fired. A shriek and a plunge told us that hig aim had been true, while as our eyes recovered from the flash, we saw that the leading canoe lay broadside to the stream, while the heads of three of its occupants could be seen swimming by its side. "There's one of the varmint wiped out at any rate," said Fortescue, shutting the breech of his rifle. "And here goes another," said I, as I picked off the steers. man of the second boat. This seemed to check their ardour, for they did not paddle so energetically as before, as the increasing distance between us pl:inly showed. We had now to run the gauntlet past the other boat, which had gained the middle of the stream, and lay waiting for us. "Those coves mean mischief," said Fortescue, as his eye caught the glint of a musket-barrel, for by this time the moon had arisen. "Here, Melinda, and you, Aziza," said I, "lay hold of your guns, we must pick off all those fellows, while the four boatmen paddle as hard as they can." "And look here, my hearties," said Fortescue, "if you stick to your paddles like men, there's a roll of cloth for each of you m hen you get back to Assinee." But the canoemen scarcely needed this stimulus, for well (lid they know that they must either paddle, fight, or die; and as they had no arms, and had no very great liking for the latter alternative, they, as a natural consequence, paddled away as they certainly had never paddled before. "Now for it," said Fortescue, as he noticed the men in the way-laying boat raise their guns. "I'll take the fellow furthest from us, and you take the nearest, while M1elinda and Aziza pet the others. Ready !" ,341

S P OR T IN A SIIA NTI "Ready!" said I, as our guns belched out their deadly contents, and we saw the canoe suddenly overturn, as the occupants were either killed outright or badly wounded, and in their fall capsized the rickety craft. "Hurrah! " shouted Fortescue, "we're clear at last." "Not just yet," said 1, as I noticed a body of men on the shore preparing to fire. "Look out!" Just as I spoke, a perfect volley of musket-shots was fired at us, the shot striking the boat in several places, knocking a hole in my hat, splintering the paddle of one of the canoemen, and grazing the cheek of Melinda, but not doing any serious mischief. "I think that is the last of them," said Fortescue, "but here's a parting keepsake," added he, firing his rifle at the dark form of one of our enemies. I-There's another gone under," said i, as with a piercing shriek and a leap of several feet into the air the man fell dead, shot clean through the heart. "Now for a little breathing time. You are not hit, Awoona, are you ? " "No; a bullet cut off a piece of my hair, and I felt the wind of another before my face, but none actually hit me." "A miss is as good as a mile, especially in such cases." The excessive labour which our men had been subject to for the last half.hour now began to tell even upon their iron muscles, and the paddles were but gently plied now that danger was past; still we did not forget to keep a sharp look-out on both sides of the river as well as astern for other ambuscades, to say nothing of the probability of meeting a canoe coming down stream. But we bad effectually shown King Bangala that, in spite of all his fetiches, be was no match for breach-loading rifles and Eley's cartridges, and just as the morning rays of the sun began to dye the tree-tops with crimson, we arrived opposite the deserted village, where we pulled the boat inshore and partook of breakfast. . Then, revived by the fragrant coffee and delicious venison 342

SAFP AT LAST. steaks, we paddled up-stream until we arrived at the village of Kangboden, and ere the night fell were comfortably installed in our former quarters in Assabcoomah. Loud and long were the congratulations showered upon us for the successful issue of our expedition, while when we recounted the fight on the river, and the slaughter we had inflicted upon Bangala's people, the delight of the king knew no bounds. "Truly, white people know how to fight too much, they never say die, and are as fierce in war as they are peaceful in their friendship," said he. "No Englishman evcr says he can't do a thing unless he has proved the impossibility of tho thing," ssld Fortescue. "You shook your head when we proposed going to Bargala's town to fetch Awoona. If we had taken your advice, what wouild be the consequence ? She would be there now. But by following out our own plans, we have restored her to her husband." "Truly white men are very much favoured by thcir good spirit. They have guns and powder and rum, and much wisdom, but the black man has the fetiche, which is denied to the white man." "And you are quite welcome to it,". said ,Fortescue, "together with your string of wives. No -Englisliman envies you these gifts." 543

CHAPTER XIX. A MIDNIGHT ATTACK-TRRBILZ MASSACRE-AWOONA'S NARROW ESCAPETHB LCGANDAS 7O TUE RESCUE-FUNERAL OF KING LEAMBA AT DXDUMASSIX-COOMASSIE AGAIN-QUAKOO'S TILLANY-ALOST POISO-ND -CAPE COAST CASTLE -DEPARTURE FOIL ENGLAND. W1EN we had recruited ourselves by a day's rest, we sallied out on an exj)edition to shoot some elephants, which had been reported in the neighbourhood. A Fter the usual incidents of such a chase we succeeded in knocking over four, and leaving the tusks and better pieces of the flesh to be brought in by the porters and assistants, Fortescue and I returned towards the village. The ivory was brought in jast at dusk, Melinda and Aziza superintending its storage in our quarters, and then, after a glorious banquet of elephant trunk, we turned in and fell asleep. I believe I must have been asleep nearly three hours, for the moon was shining brightly, and it did not rise till after midnight, when I was aroused by the most unearthly shrieks imaginable. I started up, and looked around to discover whence it arose, ,when I saw bright flames bursting forth close beside me from the buildings in the house next to ours. With a loud shout I roused Fortescue, while Melinda and

A TERRIBLE RP PENGE. Aziza, who were already on the alert, rushed to assemble our people. But we were too late-to be of any service, for the flames had already caught the dry thatch of their house, and the devouring element was already licking it up with a roar like that of a furnace. Among the burning huts were some hundreds of warriors in their brightest war costume, whom I recognised as the Sankatanga people. Bloody fetiches hanging from their necks, and streaks of various coloured paint on their cheeks, added to the ferocity of their savage features, as, disregarding the use of their guns, they rushed about with their broad-bladed sharp swords, cutting and hewing at any living being whom the fire drove from the shelter of their huts. A complete panic seemed to have seized the inhabitants of the village; little or no resistance was offered to the invaders, who, with the usual strategy in African warfare, had suddenly pounced upon the village in the night. Scarcely one of the Assahcoornahs thought of drawing his sword, either in defence of his family or himself. The fierce assailants seized their victims by the hair end hewed off their heads, or cut them down mercilessly where they stood. None were spared. Men, women, and children were indiscriminately slaughtered. The bitterest revenge, not plunder, was the object of the assailants, hence no captives were made, all, all were ruthlessly slain. The boasting Assahcoomahs, who had but lately been lauding their own bravery, were now being cut down like so many cattle. Resolved to make an effort, to save the lives of the people under my charge at least, I ordered the whole of them to assemble round the hut where we had been sleeping, and which as yet was untouched by the flames. By barricading the doors %%e managed to form a tolerable defence from the shots or knives of the assailants, and the only enemy we really had to fear was fire. 345

SPORT IN ASI:ANTZ. Meanwhile, Melinda had noticed that Awoona was not Wiith us. Dashing everybody aside, he ran in the direction of the hut where she had been staying, appearing to be able to find the way by instinct. On he rushed, heedless of the onset of numerous warriors, who thirsted for his blood. A supernatural strength seemed to be given him as he saw, to his horror, that the flames had already reached the hut where his bride had been sleeping; but a few days before saved from bondage, only, as it seemed, tc perish either by fire or sword. As he rushed on he heard dreadful whoops and yells from the savage Sankatangas as they went about their work of butchery and destruction. The flames now burst fiercely from the but where. Awoona-had been sleeping, and by their lightihe saw a-party-of soldiers- before the building, who were dancing and flourishing- their weapons over a group of kneeling figures. A short distance off an aged caboceer, although badly wounded, was struggling desperately with a number of our men, who had attacked his troop. Although one of our enemies, we could not but admire his indomitable pluck as he fought with the fury of despair against the over. whelming body of his assailants. At length one of our people, resolving not to be held at defiance by a single enemy, made a savage onset upon the brave old warrior, and disabled his sword arm. In an instant the others threw themselves upon him, and in a few seconds the old chief was literally cut to pieces. Turning from this tragic drama, we beheld a scene which thrilled us with horror. Close to the group of kneeling wretches, who sued in van for mercy, was a figure we all knew but too wvell. It was Awoona. A warrior held her by her long hair, as she knelt before him, and, with his sword uplifted, seemed but to wait the issue of the determined combat with the aged chief ere be severed her head from her body. With an agonising cry lelinda flew to the rescue. Already had the warrior taken a fresh clutch at Awoona's flowing hair. 46

A 1OONA'S 1PSCUE. Already had she given up herself as lost, when the fearful cry of Melinda fell upon her ear. Opening her eyes, she recognised her lover springing with the speed of a gazelle to the rescue. Another instant and her headless corpse would have rolled lifeless on the ground, when with a cry, like that of a lion at bay, Melinda threw himself upon the soldier. The conflict was short but fierce. Swords flashed in the firelight, as the two combatants made rapid and savage thrusts at each other. At length Melinda saw his opponent off his guard, and with a fierce blow his sword clove the head of the savage right down to his shoulders. Meanwhile, we had organised our little band into a state of defenee; but as we, were deliberating the practicability of an assault, a cry arose from the woods behind us, which appeared to cause the greatest consternation in the ranks of the Sankatanga soldiery. Again and again did we hear it, accompanied by the discharge of musketry. "The Lugandas," eaid Mlelinda. "They have come to the rescue." "Hurrah!" said I, "then we shall not be wiped out this time." "Not dead yet, by George!" said Fortescue. "We had better get out of this den. iPhew ! I am well-nigh choked with the smoke, to say nothing of being baked by the heat." Throwing down the piles of lumber with which we had barricaded our doors and windows, we came out into the courtyard. Alas! what was but a few hours ago a well-kept and neatly thatched cluster of huts, wiih a bamboo fence running round it, was now but a heap of smouldering ruins, amongst which the ghastly corpses of the slain lay in every attitude of death; in some cases, where the bodies had fallen into the flames, being charred to cinders, and, but for the brass ornaments which escaped the general destruction, no one could have told that the remains had once been human beings. Appalled by such fearful scenes, our men hastened to get 347

S jSPORT IN ASHANTI. away to the scene of conflict, where they might wreak the~r vetts geance upon the flying Sankatangas. Outside our house the streets were literally choked with the corpses of the terrified Assahcoomahs, who bad been startled from their sleep only. to be butchered by their cruel enemies, and pass into that sleep which knew no waking. Directed by the shots, we ran down the streets in the direction of the gate which had been the scene of strire when the Sankatangas made their first attack. There we found the Sankatangas engaged in a fierce conflict with the Lugandas, who had come upon them with a suddenness that bad put them into a terrible panic. Those who, but a few minutes before, had been ruthlessly butchering men, womcn, and children, were now themselves being cut to pieces by the swords of the Lugandas, while those who could not get up to join in the mnlee, stationed themselves at a distance, and poured in volley after volley with deadly effect. At this stage we came upon the scene, thus taking the Sankatangas in the rear. Flight was then almost impossible, so, like the brave men they had proved themselves to be, they resolved to sell their lives as dearly as possible. They fought with the frenzy of despair. Oftentimes a w.rrior setting himself with his back against a wall, would literally hew down everybody who came near him, and it was not until the strength of his arm began to wane that he succumbed to the power of numbers, dying with the fierce expression of his countenance still unrelaxed. In short, urged by the desperate predicament m which the Sankatangas found themselves so suddenly placed, they fought with the fury of demons rather than the passions of men. A ppalled by their menacing looks, and cowed by their vigorous re-istance, the Lugandas had begun to waver, when we came up, and in a few minutes ended the strife, for the Sankatangas,finding further resistance hopeless, fled in all directions, often C,]y to be met and driven back to death by the Assahcoomahs, I 'o were now rallying in defence of their hearths and homes, or At

A HORRIBLE A CELDA3JA. uttering their war cry, threw themselves into the thickest ranks of the enemy, and there met with a warrior's death. Out of all the Sankatangas who had entered the town on their savage errand scarcely fifty left it, and those who did were forced to throw away their arms to enable them to escape from their pursuers. Great was tMe rejolcing throughout the village when the last of the Sankatangas had either been slain or put to flight. Drums were beaten, and goDg-gongs sounded, while the excited war whoops of the Assahcoomahs rent the air. Hitherto the darkness had shrouded the ghastly scene from our eyes, but as the sun rose and revealed the fearful array of slaughtered dead and smouldering ruins, we were impressed with a deep sense of the horrors of war. On all sides death and destruction had been dealt out with unstinting hands. Scarcely a family in the town but had to mourn the loss of some of its members, while in many instances whole streets had been rendered desolate by the wholesale mas. sacre of its inhabitants. When the villagers fully reallsed the extent of their bereavements, their rejoicing gave way to mourning, and loud wails ascended to the skies, as they wept over the dead bodes of their kindred. Luckily our loss was but small, only one man being killed outright, though fourteen were more or less severely wounded. Fortescue and I were in constant demand to bandage the wounds of those who had survived the massacre; while, if we had been the whole college of surgeons, we could not have been expected to perform more difficult operations. Like all savages, the Assahcoomahs possessed an unlimited belief in the powers of white men to cure all the diseases and wounds which the flesh is heir to. Indeed, bad we brought to life all-the corpses which strewed the pathways, the circumstance would not have exeited greater surprise than the healing of the merest scratch. For days arter the vultures congregated in countless numbers 349

SPORT IN ASHANTI. in the streets, lured by tle smell of blood, and it required all the exertions of Fortescue and myself to impress upon the minds of the villagers the urgent necessity of burying the dead; the corpses of those who had surviving relatives were of course buried with all the national ceremonials, but in many instances those of strangers were allowed to remain on the spot where they fell, filling the atmosphere around with a pestilential odour. Thus it happens that when a town is visited by the scourge of war, disease inevitably follows in its train; and though the vultatrs and hymenas perform their part as scavengers, yet in the highways the ghastly corpses of the slain may be seen for many a long day. The old chief was again solicitous that we should become his sons.in-law, and I am afraid that we fell considerably in his estimation when we respectfully but firmly declined the honour. Melinda was now anxious to return to his native land, and as Fo'tescue and I had by this time become almost tired of bush life and shooting elephants, we resolved to miake our way back again to Coomassie without delay. We took leave of 3foreymai, after many assurances of his friendship, in which, however, a little of the innate covetousness of the African disposition was mingled, for he sent us present after present of yams, fowls, and similar articles, each accompanied by a request that we would give him something in return. At length, however, all our ivory was packed on the heads of our carriers, and one fine morning the early sunbeams found us a couple of miles on our way home. Home! 'What a well of happy thoughts is broken in upon by that single word. However a man may be enjoying himself,however exciting may be the pursuit he is engaged upon, and h)wcver delightful may his surroundings be,-yet, if lie is a wanderer in a strange land, the first nioVe to~vatds homhie sends-is blood :dancing through'_his.,veiUns, hs his b6art Maps NWith melodly at the sound of home, sweet home'! We reached Dedumassie without any adventure worth rec~rling, but on our arrival there we found that fhe old ehiefhad just, 3 5d0

A ROYAL FUNERAL. died, and the whole town was in an uproar in consequence. As is the usual custom, his head wife had stretched herself on the bamboo bedstead beside her dead husband, and caressing it in the most tender manner, and ealifig it by the most endearing names, sought to recall the spirit which had flown. Meanwhile a number of the relatives of the deceased had made a raid on all the houses of the caboceers to obtain the necessary amount of "chop " to celebrate the obsequies of so potent a monarch as King Leamba in a proper manner. For a whole day did a fearful din of brass pans, cracked pots, drums, horns, and other musical instruments arise from the house of the defunct. The corpse was dressed in its best go-ashore suit and laid in the grave, which was dug in the floor of one of the houses within the palatial enceinte. Fortescue and I, being desirous to see the concluding part of the ceremony, applied for permission, which was readily granted. We arrived on the scene just at sunset, and were conducted to the grave wherein our former host was lying, covered over with a slight layer of earth except his face, which lay in all its livid horror exposed to view. This is done that all the relatives 'vho wish to pay a last tribute of respect to the deceased can have the opportunity afforded them of again seeing their kinsman At last, after more feasting had been duly brought to an end, tie band struck up a more discordant row, if possible, than before, and then to our surprise and horror we saw a couple of poor wretches, bound and gagged, being led on to the scene. "They are surely not going to sacrifice those two poor creatures, are they ?" said Fortescue. It looks very much like it; it is always an ominous sign mhen one sees those choking gags in any one's mouth." "We'll make an effort to save them anyhow. Ifere, A ziza, ask the chief Vife if she will exchange those slaves whose blood 1is going to-water the king's grave for rum." A Ziza shook his -head.. "Y-U are making a bad paraver ; w"hy .Should you int- erfere -betwcewt Leaftba and" his -v e? Ii graves of all kings in Ash-tti be watered." 351

SP OR T IN ASHIANT. "Because we cannot sit here and look quietly ,pon the murder of two of our fellow-creatures, for in the light of all civilised nations these sacrifices, as you call them, are nothing but murders." "You are white men; you do not know what is best for black men. Suppose black men should give you advice as to what is best for you, would you not laugh at them? Just so will they laugh at you, because you do not know what is best for them." "Nevertheless we will try to save their miserable lives. Tell the eaboceers that I will buy the two slaves, and give them twelve bottles of rum to water Leamba's grave." "I do not like the palaver, but you are my master, so I must obey." Aziza had hardly finished making our proposal, when a perfect yell of mingled rage and surprise rang through the assembly Some started up and approached us with threatening gestures, while others, pointing towards us, uttered our proposition in excited voices, as though they could not believe their ears. Fortescue and I instinctively clutched our revolvers, while Aziza and Melinda cast anxious eyes upon the tumultuous throng. "What has Leamba done," said an excited caboceer, "that his grave should not be watered as was his father's? Why do the white men wish to bring shame upon Leamba and upon us P " "Did not the white men call Leamba their friend, and now they want us to disgrace him," said another. At this juncture, while the unhappy victims kneeling at the grave were suffering all the tortures of remorse, Ovenda, a cousin of the deceased king, rushed out of the me'e, and with a single blow struck off the head of the nearest victim. This was the signal for a general rush as to who should be the first to decapi-, tate the remaining unfortunate, and, as three or four came up together, a perfect 8hower of blows from their circinal-ended swords soon lopped off the poor fellow's head, while his body fell over into the grave, where it lay beside that of his companion; 352

LV COOMASSIR AGAIN., the grave was then filled up, and the chief wife and other relations of the defunct having daubed their faces with the blood of the victims, led off a pas-de-ballet on the grave of the old king A perfect carnival succeeded, men, women, and even children1 thouting, dancing, and whooping, as if each were trying to work up his or her feelings to the very highest pitch in the sliorte-t possible time. In a few moments not a vestige remained of the grave of Leamba, for the multitudinous trampling of so many feet effectually eradicated all traces of the spot whereon that scene of brutal murder-an Ashantee funeral-had taken place. "What must be the feelings of a nation whose funerals are the scenes of murder and debauchery ?" said Fortescue. "The slaughter of their fellow-creatures announces their birth, accompanies their every action through life, and even after their death the same inhuman butchery, under the disguise of the funeral obsequies, follows them to the other world." "True. Let us get away from this horrible place. Bah! the sight of these dancing murderers gives me a loathing of the whole race, and I shall be glad when we have seen the last of them." That same evening we encamped in a wooded dell, about five miles from the scene of cruelty, and finally, after a few stray adventures among the ferce naturce, we re-entered Coomassic. There we found letters awaiting us, containing the first piece of cikilis-d news that we had heard for many months past; amongst theni was one urging upon Fortescue the necessity of his immediate return upon important family affairs, so that we hastened to get down to the Coast as fast as poss'ble. Leaving Coomassie, however, is not so easily done as a stranger would suppose. In the happy ie:.lms of Koffee Kalcalli a man carxuot get up and sit down as he pleas-es. Oh! dear no. If such a thing were permitted, everybody would be getting into no end of scrapes.; consequently his Majesty, with that fostering care which a monarch ought to possess towards his subjects, 24 AA 35

S5'PORT2' IN ASIANVTI. keeps them under constant surveillance, and never allows any one to go out or come in without his sanction, or, at least, without a great palaver with some of the royal officers. Not only were Fortescue and I anxious to get home again, but Melinda, having found the object of his persevering search, was also eager to throw up his lucrative post under King Koffee and return to his own land on the banks of the Niger; Aziza too wished to accompany them, for he had formed a very strong attachment to the brave young caboceer. It only remained therefore for us to obtain the necessary permission. Day after day elapsed bringing no answer from the king, and, although we vigorously plied the old Alingoten with presents, and offered him much more when we arrived at the Coast, yet still the delay continued. One day, when we were bewailing our unlucky stars in keeping us state prisoners at Coomassie, Aziza came in, and by his looks we could see that he had something of importance to communicate. " Well, Aziza," said I, "what's the news ?" "I am afraid we shall not get away from Coomassie just yet." "Why not-has anything happened ?" "No, but none of our messages have reached the king; the Quakoo has kept them all back in hopes that you will give more presents." " The crafty old villain! I'll show him about presents tle next time he puts his ugly beak beneath our roof." Scarcely had I uttered these words than the #very person in question maiched in at the gateway and soon entered our presence. "Speak of the devil-you know the rest," said I to Fortescue. "Good morning, Quakoo," said Fortescue rather coolly. "Good morning; Quakoo wishes you all the compliments," returned the great man. " Well, Quakoo, have you brought us permission to leave Cuomassie.?" Shaking his head, so that the golden nuggets strung on his well oiled wool rattld together, he replied, 354

QUAKO 0 UTWTTD.3 it The king says he cannot let you go just yet; in a few more days he will see you." "You lying old wretch I "cried Fortescue in a fury, "1 you have never told one word of the palaver to the king, but have kept back our presents to him for yourself." The wily caboceer turned slightly green as he heard this grave accusation thrown so suddenly in his teeth, while Fortescue continued, "If you do not bring us permission to go to-morrow, we will tell Koffee Kalcalli that his chief Ocra is stealing all the presents we brought for him; you know that your head would not be worth an hour's purchase after that." "Why should Quakoo steal from Koffee Kalcalli, and why are his white friends vexed with him? " "If you are our friend bring us the permission." "Koffee Kalcalli says--" "If you don't bring us the permit to-morrow, we will tell the king you have been stealing his presents," said Fortescue, turning on his heel and leaving the discomfited Ocra to his pleasant reflections. The result was that, knowing if we said a word to any one outside of his underhanded doings, there would be scores only too willing to carry it on to the palace, on the following morning Quakoo brought permission for Fortescue and I, with our own attendants, to leave the capital, but that Melinda and Aziza, being only temporarily attached to us, must remain behind. "Not if I know it," said Fortescue; "Aziza is in our pay, and by right belongs to us. Melinda must and shall go with us, and if you don't bring his'permit, you know what the consequence will be." "What has Quakoo done that his white friends speak hard words to him?" "Who knows what you have done better than yourself ? Bring us the permit." The Ocra turned to go, but looking round, said, "You shall have the permit for Melinda to-morrow if I can get it." "If you don't bring it you know what we shall do," returned 355

SPORT iV ASHANTI. Fortescue, adding in an aside to me, "nevertheless, I believe the old fellow will have a tough job to obtain it." "Never mind that. There's nothing like being firm with these fellows, otherwise we might have stopped here for another six weeks; once let the government caboceers get a notion into their heads that you think you are in their power and they will snap their fingers in your face and rob you right and left." That same night Quakoo came in, bringing a stick carved into the resemblance of a man's hand; this was our passport, and we joyfully received it. "Melinda may go," said the Ocra; "the king cannot come to bid you good-bye, so he sends this stick that you may hold it in your hand and know that he wishes you good-bye. ie also sends you some 'chop ' to eat by the way," continued he, pointing to a dozen large calabashes of provisions, which had been sct out for us by the attendant slaves of Mingoten. "We are much obliged to the king for his kindness." "Ilere," continued the Ocra, placing a calabash before us, "is a present from me; it is a young goat stewed Ashantee fashion. Quakoo will wait while his white friends eat some of it." There was a crafty underhanded manner about the Ocra as he said this, which at once aroused my suspicions. Without saying a word to any one I picked out one of the pieces of meat from the stew, while the eyes of the old villain followed me with a malignant gleam of satisfaction as I carried the piece to my mouth. Before he could stop me, however, I threw the piece to a monkey outside, which at once snapped at it and devoured it in an instant; in a few seconds he appeared to be uncomfortable, and then, giving out a fearful cry, he fell back dead. "Ah! I thought so. This food is poisoned, Quakoo, and you wished us to eat it, you have been caught this time, however, and unless you clear out of the house this very instant we will send Aziza to the palace with some of the food to 356

DEPARTUR.E FOR -ENGLAND. show the king what sort of meat his chief Ocra gave to his white visitors. The Ocra, terrified at our threats, for well he knew that his life would be the forfeit of any pilfering or tampering with the king's visitors, went out of our house looking very crestfallen, while we told Az-.za to carry out the poisoned food and bury it. As all our preparations for our journey had long been made, and we waited only for the permission to depart, we wcre soon ready to start, and at sunrise the next morning we left the gates of Coomassie, and, after pissing over the marsh, entered the forest, and the blood-stained capital of Ashanti vanished into a memory. As we were anxious to return straight home to England, we took the nearest route to Cape Coast Castle, as being the handiest port of call for the English steamers that we could make for. Five days after leaving Coomassie, during which our journey was for the most part through almost impenetrable jungle, we entered Prahsu on the banks of the river Prah. There we halted for a day to allow our porters to recruit themselves, for their loads of ivory, skins, and curiosities were very considerable, and the journey over the Adansi hills had been very trying. Finally, one fine afternoon we marched into Cape Coast Castle, whose whitened lighthouse had been our beacon for many miles, and by sunset were eating the first civi lied meal we had partaken of for many months past under the hospitable roof of Mr. We there learnt that our steamer would call in on the second day, and therefore busied ourselves in paying off our porters and sending them to their homes rejoicing in the presents of beads and cloth with which we dismissed them. Melinda and Awoona, whose adventures had now almost come t3 an end, accompanied by Aziza the intrepid hunter, were presented with several valuable articles by us, including all our guns and ammunition. A passage was taken for them in the down-coast steamer, and when we steamed away from Cape 357

SPORT IN ASHANTI. Coast Castle the following afternoon, we saw our late chief standing in the bows of the canoe which was carrying him ashore, together with his long lost Awoona and his new-found friend Aziza, waving their hands over their heads in adieu to the white friends who had been their assistants in the recovery of the bride of Melinda the Ashantee chief. THE END. 358

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