New horizons Activities report / 2012 Contents

A new path for the Conscrits refuge...... 4 - 5 Serving our communities Protecting seabirds in Brittany...... 6 - 7 Thanks to the good work of our team, our foundation has continued to strengthen the links Working with Aron Ralston to protect the canyons of Utah...... 8 - 9 and relationships that hold our Communities together. Success for the first Mountain Citizen Meetings...... 10 - 11 Our desire to move forward towards shared goals has motivated us to act positively with the Enhancing the Mont Blanc experience...... 12 -13 growing number of mountain communities we have met since we set out on this journey. A Handbook for mountain club leaders...... 14 -15 The position of the Foundation is not always clearly understood, but when it’s a matter of Towards autonomy of training courses in Nepal...... 16 -17 public interest, the Petzl Foundation very quickly becomes an inseparable partner for the communities we serve. Piedra Parada, showing respect to a major site...... 18 - 19 Mission to study very cold waterfall ice in Alaska...... 20 Funded by our company, the Petzl Foundation is at the service of our customers who have Understanding mountain accidents ...... 21 enabled us to exist. By our actions in the public interest, the Petzl Foundation also reflects the image of the Petzl Group and as a result, helps us protect the jobs of those who work A handbook for arborist rescuers...... 22 for us. Connecting those who need it most!...... 23 Thank you for your confidence. Underground from Toulon to Bizerte...... 24 Environmental caving inventory...... 25 Paul Petzl, president Havens of tranquility in the mountains...... 26 A new camp in the heart of the Mandé...... 27 Other projects supported in 2012...... 28 - 31 Key figures...... 32 - 33 In the words of the foundation trustees...... 34 - 35

The Petzl Foundation

For almost forty years, Petzl has been designing vertical access equipment for recreational and professional use providing technical solutions to help people achieve their dreams of ascension in daylight and darkness, while ensuring maximum performance, freedom and safety.

Petzl’s corporate philanthropy has a long history in the USA. Paul Petzl, President and founder, gave this activity a boost in 2005 by creating the Petzl Foundation, to serve the environment that has enabled the company to exist and thrive.

The mission of the Petzl Foundation is to conduct activities contributing to sustainable development. Our priorities are education and safety in vertical activities, as well as research into a harmonious balance between man and his cultural, economic and ecological envi- ronment. The Petzl Foundation supports non-profit projects that work for the benefit of our society and in the public interest, most specifically in these three areas: - Accident prevention and risk management training, - environmental preservation, - scientific research. © Eric Lescarcelle

Cover photos : the Utah canyons ©Crusher Bartlett / seabirds ©Kelig Gourvennec Training courses for trekking guides in Kakani, Nepal.

2 3 A new path to the Conscrits refuge

“In the midst of this remarkable site, protected by the Natural Reserve of Les Contamines- Monjoie, it was imperative to conduct such a project in consultation with the various stakeholders: municipalities, the French Alpine Club, and envi- ronmental associations such as Asters. From the mountaineering pers- pective, the new route isn’t any easier, but it is much less dange- rous. From an environmental perspective, the new route required the construction of a footbridge, but on the positive side, the bridge allowed us to eliminate all of the ladders on the face of the cliff.”

Olivier Bégain, guide and President of the Mountain

Photos © Gilles Lansard Guides Office

Last September a brand new path was created to reach the refuge of the Conscrits in the heart of Mont Blanc, via a Himalayan footbridge. The Conscrits refuge (2,580 m) is on the access route to several peaks including the Aiguille de la Bérangère, the “Dôme or guides and the municipality of to rockfall. At the junction between the to local and European funding of de Miage”, the Lex Blanche and the Les Contamines, it was an inno- glacier and the cliff, where the glacier €130,000. Together with the guides Aiguille de Tré-la-Tête. In 1997, the Fvative way to meet the increasing has retreated, new ladders had to be of Les Contamines, the Petzl Foun- old shack which was often completely dangers associated with the retreating added every year. dation is committed to this project covered by snow in winter, was replaced Tré-la-Tête glacier. This new route Over the years, the issue of a new and to respecting the environ- by a modern building which can reduces the risk of accidents to this summer route had been discussed ment of the Natural Reserve of Les accomodate 90 mountaineers. remarkable site. several times. After location scouting, Contamines-Monjoie. guides of Les Contamines proposed The Conscrits refuge is an access an entirely new path. It now runs This is an exemplary solution to the route to the southwest side of Mont along the right side of the glacier and problems raised by glacier retreat and Blanc, as well as the “Dôme de Miage”. is criss-crossed by old hunting and climate change. It is also the opening Access to the Tré-la-Tête glacier has animal trails. However, this path came of a beautiful gateway to the moun- become very delicate and dangerous up against deep ravines which were tains. Risk reduction makes the refuge in the summer, including the aptly difficult to cross on foot, hence the more accessible and enables younger named gorge of "Mauvais Pas" (bad idea to build a sixty-meter footbridge. generations of hikers to explore the steps), which is increasingly exposed Work began in June 2012, thanks highest mountains.

Project partner: Bureau des Guides des Contamines-Montjoie (Mountain Guides Office). Budjet: €10,000 in 2012.

4 MONT BLANC 5 Protecting seabirds in Brittany

“I have been passionate about the red-billed chough for many years. I admire their prowess in the air! To find their breeding sites in deep caves battered by strong Atlantic waves, I was trained to work on ropes. This is an essential skill for field monitoring in this harsh envi- ronment. This year, I'm glad I don’t have to use the 40 kg ladder anymore!”

Photos © Romain Guenard Morgane Huteau, a researcher at Bretagne Vivante

The red-billed chough is a corvid which is emblematic of the coastal cliffs in Brittany, France. Today there are less than 60 pairs and their protection requires regular monitoring in a vertical world which is not always easy to access. © Gaétan Guyot

or the past twenty years, ornitho- caves by providing the association with © Kelig Gourvennec logists of the Bretagne Vivante rope descent equipment. Climbing Fassociation have been studying and rope descent are essential to the red-billed choughs to ensure their smooth running of monitoring opera- preservation. To better understand tions. Using ropes minimizes tidal their population, the chicks are ringed range constraints and allows ringer using an individual color coding climbers to intervene more efficiently system. without endangering themselves. © Jean-Philippe-Sanquer

Choughs nest in coastal caves, so In 2012, despite bad spring weather Ringing a red-billed chough chick. The black-legged kittiwake also wears colored rings. access to nests is often perilous for conditions, 23 chicks were ringed in ornithologists. The Petzl Foundation about twenty sites on Cape Sizun and helped facilitate rope access to the Ouessant Island.

Project partner: Bretagne Vivante Association / www.bretagne-vivante.org. Budget: climbing equipment.

6 BRITTANY, FRANCE 7 Working with Aron Ralston to protect Utah’s Redrock desert canyons

“Today, not least for my expe- rience in Blue John Canyon, red sand is forever embedded in my spirit. Unique in the world, Greater Canyonlands, the defi- ning landscape of the West, is under attack by gas, oil, tar sands, and uranium compa- nies, who threaten to destroy one of our nation’s most special wild places. I urge President Obama to recognize Greater Canyonlands’ significance for our national heritage, and to take swift action to steward this land- scape into the future. In doing so, he will save the region from imminent degradation. That’s my wish: that Greater Canyonlands National Monument will be there, long after I’m gone, for future generations to enjoy. ” © Courtesy of Aron Ralstton © Courtesy of Aron © James Kay

Aron Ralston

In 2003, climber, adventurer and wilderness advocate, Aron Ralston was trapped by a falling boulder in Utah’s remote Blue John Canyon. Today, Aron is committed to ­protecting iconic climbing, canyoneering and outdoor adventure venues throughout Utah’s famous redrock desert. © TomTill © James Kay

hile descending the narrow The Foundation awarded Aron a and most awe-inspiring landscapes. slot canyon, a suspended $10,000 grant to donate to a conser- This region includes Blue John Canyon Wboulder became dislodged, vation organization of his choice. In where Aron was trapped, as well as crushing his right hand and pinning it response, Aron demonstrated that he such iconic climbing venues as Fisher against the canyon wall. After being meant what he said about protecting Towers and Indian Creek. trapped in the canyon for over five the wilderness, by adding $10,000 of days with very little food or water, his own money making a combined SUWA used the $20,000 donation to Aron realized that his only chance for total of $20,000, which he donated create a matching grant program for survival was to amputate his arm in to the Southern Utah Wilderness their 2012 fundraising efforts. This order to free himself from the boulder Alliance. program resulted in raising $76,000 that held him prisoner. This epic SUWA is an organization working to which will help fund work to protect adventure was documented in the film preserve Utah’s redrock wilderness, some of the best canyoneering and 127 Hours, directed by Danny Boyle. one of the American West’s wildest climbing venues in the world.

Project partner : Southeast Utah Wilderness Alliance ( SUWA ) / www.suwa.org. Budjet : $10,000 in 2012.

8 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 9 Success for the firstMountain Citizen Meetings

A Mountain Coordination, for what purpose?

Created in January 2012, the Mountain Coordination comprises representative institutions and professional sports clubs from poorly bolted or completely unpro-

Photos © Jacques-Marie Francillon /Ville de Grenoble Photos © Jacques-Marie Francillon /Ville de Grenoble tected mountain areas and crags, as well as a number of institutions involved in the promotion of these climbing and outdoor activities. Its role is to bring together moun- tain stakeholders in order to encourage discussion and coordi- nated communication with public authorities. Its actions focus on Which fool let these ideas out? access to the mountains for young people, training and prevention of accident.

The Petzl Foundation is an active member of the Mountain Coordi- nation and supports its actions.

Whatever happened to our thrills? Jump! Taking youngsters to a refuge: "What do you mean there’s Set up by the Petzl Foundation and the Nature & Découvertes Foundation, in partnership with the no Internet?" Mountain Coordination, the first Mountain Citizen Meetings took place in Grenoble, in November 2012. More than 250 attendees debated the issues affecting our mountains and the strategies needed for the future.

hese meetings followed on from resorts, mountain recreation construc- irresponsible town planning, the the “Call For Our Mountains” tion, refuges, climbing site manage- economic crisis, changing philosphies Tinitiative in 2011, which had ment and mountain safety. and the ageing of the population. already awakened an awareness of The speakers included mayors of mountain issues. Seven thousand mountain villages, ministers for the By bringing together members of the people signed the petition in 2011. environment and tourism, presidents general public, mountain experts, of mountain clubs and commissions, clubs and institutions, these Mountain In addition to the four short movies as well as guides, mountaineers Meetings provided a forum for discus- about mountain issues made by and researchers. Members of the sion on a wide variety of topics affec- France 3 Alpes, which were shown audience were able to ask questions ting our mountains. While the ideas put at the 2012 Grenoble Mountain Film and give their opinions on the issues forward need more in-depth analysis Festival, an afternoon of debates being debated. before approval for action, the success enabled all those present to discuss The lively debates triggered further of these meetings lies in the emer- issues relating to our mountains. discussion on the subjects covered, gence of a democratic approach to Project partner: National coordination for the development of outdoor mountain activities and mountaineering These included the future of our ski which included climate change, solving the issues we are facing today. (Mountain Coordination) / www.coordination-montagne.fr. For more information, more Cled'12 cartoons and a video: www.appelpournosmontagnes.org/rencontres-citoyennes Budget: € 10,000 in 2012.

10 FRENCH ALPS 11 Enhancing the Mont Blanc experience

“This situation really angers me! How much longer are we going to allow 3 to 4 people each year to lose their lives foolishly in the couloir du Goûter or on the ridge below the refuge? It has to stop! If we act now, we can reduce this risk. It infuriates me that our mountain community (institutions, federations, as well as our local politicians) fails to find real solutions to these controversial issues, which concern all of us. Too much time has been spent defending isolated interests. If we want to make progress and strengthen our mountain community, we must see the bigger picture together.

I often hear people say that we must do something about the couloir du Goûter, but nobody wants to take the initiative. I simply do not under- stand how people can refuse to see the truth. Today, three key issues face our mountain community: - Ethically-speaking, can we continue to do nothing? - How far should we go where equipment is concerned? - Will the equipment make the access to the summit easier? How can we limit the numbers of would-be summiteers?

Se préparer S’équiper S’informer avec le soutien de la : la de soutien le avec

Pour tenter le mont Blanc avec de Prendre le matériel adapté, ne rien d’oublier d’essentiel Les conditions changent vite en montagne, le temps bonnes chances de réussite, il faut Our foundationsans s’encombrer du superflu,wishes cela to act for the benefitencore ofplus the vite. Pour mountain prendre les bonnes commu décisions, - 1 avoir une expérience de la haute 2 fait déjà partie de la course. 3 il est nécessaire de disposer des bonnes informations nity with robust and realistic proposals. The studies carried out by the montagne, un entraînement régulier et de savoir les interpréter avec un regard critique. et une préparation adaptée. Un bon Outre des vêtements adaptés à la haute montagne et aux

températuresPetzl très froides Foundation (avec gants de rechange), have provided solid facts, which cannot be disputed or www.coordination-montagne.fr encadrement sera aussi déterminant.

le matériel nécessaire est . Météo et conditions de la montagne :

tél. 04 76 51 75 41 41 75 51 76 04 tél. misinterpreted. These facts must be takenOffice de haute into montagne : consideration.04 50 53 22 08 ; www.chamoniarde.com ; If we really

3, rue Raoul Blanchard, 38000 Grenoble 38000 Blanchard, Raoul rue 3, celui de l’alpiniste en

Du point de vue physique, ce sommet requiert Du point de vue psychologique, Bulletin de Météo France : 08 99 71 02 74 ; www.meteofrance.com Montagne la de Maison przy wsparciu: przy Przygotowanie Sprzęt Informacja

terrain glaciaire Bulletin du Val d’Aoste : 0165 272 333 ; www.regione.vda.it La Coordination Montagne Coordination La non seulement une bonne condi- il faut être prêt à vivre de mauvaises nuits et de want a strong mountain community, we must come together and take a

Szanse na zdobycie Mont Blanc tion, mais aussi de l’avoirWziąć odpowiednielongues journées wyposażenie, dans un univers merveilleux, nie zapomnieć(piolet, crampons, harnais, corde,Warunki etc.). zmieniają się szybko, pogoda jeszcze Bulletin montagne de Suisse romande : 0900 162 168 ; www.meteosuisse.admin.ch

Mountain Bike Fondation (MBF). Fondation Bike Mountain .org, .org, clear stand on issues, which affectEt moi... all PGHMof de us. Chamonix : 04 50 55 33 72.

zwiększa doświadczenie wysokogórskie, éprouvée en altitude.o kluczowym L’expé- mais sprzęcie, hostile, différent nie zabierać et changeant. niepotrzebnychNe rzeczy pas oublier en outreszybciej de By móc podjąć właściwe decyzje niezbędne

a CIPRA, la la CIPRA, a Je peux venir

Fondation Petzl, En Passant par la Montagne, le Réseau de chercheurs Sportsnature regularnechercheurs de trenowanieRéseau le Montagne, orazla par odpowiedniePassant En Petzl, Fondation rience d’un premier « 4000 » plus facileto et już d’au jest element wyjścia. pouvoir : jest posiadanie dobrych informacji oraz umiejętność . Refuges :

), l’Association l’Association ),

1l (ANCEF), montagne de et Fond de Ski de Foyers Et Centres des Nationale Préparer sa course c’est aussi étudier le avec toi ?

przygotowanie się. Nie mniej istotne jest 2 3 ich krytycznej oceny. Tête Rousse : 04 50 58 24 97 ; réservation : refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr moins une nuit récente à plus de 3000 m vous se protéger : casque, lunettes,

de plein air air plein de .

(UCPA), la Grande Traversée des Alpes (GTA), Mountain Wilderness (MW też stosowneWilderness Mountain wyszkolenie.(GTA), Alpes des Traversée Grande la (UCPA), Oprócz odzieży dostosowanej terrain do wysokich à travers la lecture de la carte, des Goûter : 04 50 54 40 93 ; réservation : refugedugouter.ffcam.fr

nal nal donnera une idée de votre forme. crème solaire (dva-pelle-sonde,

des accompagnateurs en montagne (SNAM), l’Union des centres sportifs sportifs centres des l’Union (SNAM), montagne en accompagnateurs des gór i niskich temperatur (w tymtopoguides zapasowe et des comptes-rendus de course. This will benefit our entire communityTré la tête : 04 50 47 01 and 68 ; www.trelatete.com this is the wish ofour

- Syndi le SNGRGE), www.coordination-montagne.fr cat national des professionnels de l’escalade et du canyon (SNAPEC), le Syndicat natio Syndicat le (SNAPEC), canyon du et l’escalade de professionnels des national cat selon parcours etPrognoza conditions). pogody i warunki w górach:

rękawiczki), niezbędnym sprzętem jestUn club vous permettra de trou- . Gonella : (+39) 0165 885 101; www.rifugiogonella.com

tél. 04 76 51 75 41 41 75 51 76 04 tél. Office de haute montagne: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 08; www.chamoniarde.com (SNGM), le Syndicat national des gardiens de refuge et gîtes d’étape ( d’étape gîtes et refuge de gardiens des national Syndicat le (SNGM), Du point de vue technique, s’orienter : carte, topo,

ten przeznaczony dla alpinisty w . Foundation.” Monzino : (+39) 0165 809 553

3, rue Raoul Blanchard, 38000 Grenoble 38000 Blanchard, Raoul rue 3, Z fizycznego punktu widzenia, Z psychologicznego punktu widzenia, ver une compagne ou un compa- Bulletin de Météo France: (France only) 08 99 71 02 74; www.meteofrance.com

le Groupe de haute montagne (GHM), le Syndicat national des guides de montagne montagne de guides des national Syndicat le (GHM), montagne haute de Groupe le il faut maîtriser le cramponnage, boussole, altimètre, sifflet,

Maison de la Montagne la de Maison terenie lodowcowym Cosmiques : 04 50 54 40 16.

-

mon szczyt wymaga nie tylko trzeba być przygotowanym na ciężkie noce gnon de cordée, une première Bulletin du Val d’Aoste: +39) 0165 272 333; www.regione.vda.it tagne et de l’escalade (FFME), la Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre (FFRP), (FFRP), Pédestre Randonnée de Française Fédération la (FFME), l’escalade de et tagne

La Coordination Montagne Coordination La l’escalade sur terrain varié et les lampe frontale (GPS).

(czekan, raki, uprząż, lina itd.). Bulletin montagne de Suisse romande:(+41) 0900900 162 168; www.meteosuisse.admin.ch Grands Mulets : 04 50 53 57 10. La Fédération Fédération La

française des clubs alpins de montagne (FFCAM), la Fédération française de la de dobrej française kondycji,Fédération la ale również(FFCAM), montagne de alpins i długieclubs des dni w pięknym,française ale wrogimpassages otoczeniu, d’arêtes, en sachant expérience et des formations.

. se restaurerPGHM de : Chamonix:vivres, +33 (0)4 50 55 33 72 Conscrits : 04 79 89 09 03. ine montagne et et montagne ine doświadczenia: regroupe 2012, wjanvier przebywaniuen créée Montagne), które(Coordination się różni id’alpinisme zmienia.

ajuster son encordement (long sur Un guide professionnel saura A ja...boissons chaudes. Durier : 06 89 53 25 10. Sportsnature.org, Mountain Bike Fondation (MBF). Fondation Bike Mountain Sportsnature.org, Nie zapomnieć również o innych rzeczach do: na wysokości.ple de activités Wcześniejszedes sprawdzeniedéveloppement le pour nationale Coordination La

glacier, court sur les arêtes, etc.). vous conseiller, vous préparer Czy. mogęsecourir iść .: trousseSchroniska crevasse

ośrodków narciarstwa biegowego), CIPRA, Fundacja Petzl, En Passant par la Montagne, Montagne, la par Passant En Petzl, Fundacja CIPRA, biegowego), narciarstwa ośrodków się na łatwiejszym 4000 i przynajmniej jeden Przygotowanie swojego wyjścia to . Ochrony: kask, okulary, krem et vous encadrer en assumant la z tobą? Tête Rousse: +33 (0)4 50 58 24 97; rezerwacja: refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr . Remontées mécaniques :

Traversée des Alpes), MW (Mountain Wilderness), ANCEF (stowarzyszenie górskich górskich (stowarzyszenie ANCEF Wilderness), (Mountain MW Alpes), des Traversée (5 mousquetons, 3 broches, poulie : Olivier Obin, Niels Martin et Philippe Descamps Philippe et Martin Niels Obin, Olivier :

nocleg na wysokości 3000 m da dobry obraz równieżTextes zapoznanie się z mapą terenu, przeciwsłoneczny ("pips", łopatka, sonda responsabilité de la course. Goûter: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 93; rezerwacja: refugedugouter.ffcam.fr Horaires : www.compagniedumontblanc.fr kanioningowych), kanioningowych), SNAM (związek przewodników), UCPA (związek centrów sportowych), GTA (Grande (Grande GTA sportowych), centrów (związek UCPA przewodników), (związek SNAM

waszej formy. Colonel Mario : Photo przewodnikami, relacjami z wyjść innych w zależności od drogi i warunków). bloqueuse, 2Tré autobloquants, la tête: +33 sangle, (0)4 50 47 01 68; www.trelatete.com Téléphérique de l’aiguille du Midi : 04 50 53 22 75.

crns) SAE (wąe poejnlsó wpnckwc i wspinaczkowych profesjonalistów (związek SNAPEC schronisk), punktu widzenia osób. Klub pomoże wam znaleźć partnera lub cordelette), téléphoneGonella: ou radio,(+39) trousse 0165 885 101; www.rifugiogonella.com Téléphérique de Bellevue : 04 50 54 70 93.

Maquette et illustrations : Bérengère Collas. Carte : JM Boudou. Z JM : technicznegoCarte Collas. Bérengère : illustrations et Maquette mapa, przewodnik, wysokogórska), SNGM (związek przewodników górskich), SNGRGE (związek strażników strażników (związek SNGRGE górskich), przewodników (związek SNGM wysokogórska), . Orientacji:

trzeba opanować chodzenie w rakach, partnerkę do zespołu, zapewni pierwsze pharmacie. Monzino: (+39) 0165 809 553 Tramway du Mont-Blanc : 04 50 47 51 83. wspinaczkowa) FFRP (Francuska federacja turystyki pieszej), GHM (grupa (grupa GHM pieszej), turystyki federacja (Francuska FFRP wspinaczkowa)

ósa i górska kompas, wysokościomierz,

Trouver un club francophone : Cosmiques: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 16 president

alpinizmu, alpinizmu, wspinaczkę w zróżnicowanym doświadczenia i szkolenia. Paul Petzl, montagne et d’alpinisme. et montagne

FFCAM (Francuska federacja klubów alpinistycznych), FFME (Francuska federacja federacja (Francuska FFME alpinistycznych), klubów federacja (Francuska FFCAM gwizdek, latarka czołowa (GPS). Grands Mulets: +33 (0)4 50 53 57 10 . Informations touristiques :

rnukc kuó apnsyzyh FCM, eeaj facsa ó i gór francuska Federacja (FFCAM), alpinistycznych klubów francuskich terenie, pokonywanie grani, Profesjonalny przewodnik będziewww.ffcam.fr ; www.ffme.fr ; www.sac-cas.ch ; www.clubalpin.be ; www.cai.it. Chamonix : 04 50 53 00 24 ; www.chamonix.com

alpinizmu (Coordination Montagne) wchodzą: Federacja Federacja wchodzą: Montagne) (Coordination alpinizmu Conscrits: +33 (0)4 79 89 09 03

nationale pour le développement des activités de pleine pleine de activités des développement le pour nationale Posilenia się:

rozwoju aktywności górskich i górskich aktywności rozwoju wiedzieć jak dopasować długość potrafił doradzić, przygotować .Trouver un encadrement professionnel : Durier: +33 (0)6 89 53 25 10 Les Houches-Servoz : 04 50 55 50 62 ; www.leshouches.com

styczniu 2012 narodowej komisji koordynacyjnej do spraw spraw do koordynacyjnej komisji narodowej 2012 styczniu jedzenie, ciepłe napoje. w powstałej skład W Ce document a été conçu et réalisé par la Coordination liny (długa Coordination la na par lodowcu, réalisé et conçu été a document Ce i przeszkolić, biorąc En France : www.sngm.fr Saint-Gervais-les-Bains : 04 50 47 76 08 ; www.saintgervais.com

skrócona na grani itd.). odpowiedzialność za wyjście. . Ratownictwa:En Vallée d’Aoste zestaw : www.guidealtamontagna.com do wyciągania . Kolejki linowe: Val Montjoie : 04 50 47 01 58 ; www.lescontamines.com Tekst: Olivier Obin, Niels Martin, Philippe Descamps. Philippe Martin, Niels Obin, Olivier Tekst: Rozkład jazdy: www.compagniedumontblanc.fr

ze szczelin (5 karabinków,En Suisse : www.4000plus-vs.ch 3 śruby lodowe, Vallée d’Aoste : (+39) 0165 842 060 ; www.lovevda.it

Zdjęcia: Mario Colonel Mario Zdjęcia: bloczek z blokadą, 2 przyrządy zaciskowe, Téléphérique de l’aiguille du Midi: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 75. Valais : (+41) 27 783 27 17 ; www.st-bernard.ch

Téléphérique de Bellevue: +33 (0)4 50 54 70 93. rysunki: Bérengere Collas. Mapa: JM Boudou. JM Mapa: Collas. Bérengere rysunki:

Makieta i Makieta taśma, linka) telefon lub radio, apteczka.

+ Tramway du Mont-Blanc: +33 (0)4 50 47 51 83.

alpinizmu. i Les facteurs At 4,810m, reaching the top of Mont Blanc is obviously a challenge for experienced mountaineers. Znaleźć klub wysokogórski: Les pièges Les facteurs. Informacja turystyczna:

Chamonix: +33 (0)4 50 53 00 24; www.chamonix.com

komisję koordynacyjną do spraw rozwoju aktywności górskich górskich aktywności rozwoju spraw do koordynacyjną komisję www.pza.org.pl le risque : En cas d’accident

wydany przez narodową narodową przez wydany de la voie normale aggravantLes Houches-Servoz: le risque +33 (0)4 50 55 50 62; www.leshouches.comréduisant

Znaleźć profesjonalnego przewodnika:

Such an extraordinary climb is not for just anyone. Good preparation, information i and opracowany został equipment dokument Niniejszy Saint-Gervais-les-Bains: +33 (0)4 50 47 76 08; www.saintgervais.com Francja: www.sngm.fr Le couloir du Goûter concentre une grande .TempératuresVal Montjoie:supérieures à zéro +33 degré. (0)4 50 47 01 58; www.lescontamines.com. Températures inférieures à zéro degré. Si vous êtes témoin d’un accident, vous devez Dolina Aosty: www.guidealtamontagna.com partie des accidents les plus graves. . Air sec : beauVallée temps d’Aoste: ensoleillé. (+39) 0165 842 060; www.lovevda.it. Temps couvert avec faible ensoleillement. respecter les consignes habituelles du secourisme : are fundamental prerequisites. Szwajcaria: www.4000plus-vs.ch Les heuresValais: les (+41)plus 27 783 2717 ; www.st-bernard.chLa présence de neige dans le couloir est ancien refuge nouveau refuge sans effet sur la régularité des chutes de + critiques se situent entre !!PROTÉGER Czynniki blocs. En revanche, elle limite l’entraîne- Czynniki 11 h et 13 h 30. Avant toute chose, il faut éviter un sur-accident en mettant Arête Payot Arête ment d’autres blocs et amortit les rebonds Pułapki zwiększające ryzyko: zmniejszające ryzyko: W razie wypadkudans le couloir. à l’abri les témoins. On ne déplace jamais une victime, Je fais le.. herefore in 2012, the Mountain photos and itineraries designed to give sauf si elle est exposée à un danger imminent. Pour en savoir plus : + . Temperatura poniżej zera stopni. Jeżeli jesteście świadkiem wypadku musicie drogi normalnej Temperatura powyżej zera stopni. Dans ce cas, on prend garde à maintenir l’axe 112 . Suche powietrze: ładna, słoneczna pogoda. . Zachmurzenie, mała ilość słońca przestrzegać zwyczajowych zasad ratowniczych: Coordination and the Petzl Foun- basic essential guidelines to would- Żleb Goûter, to miejsce w którym dochodzi Traversée www.fondation-petzl.org tronc/cou/tête et on cherche à l’isoler du froid. Obecność śniegu w żlebie nie ma wpływu do bardzo wielu poważnych wypadków. Najbardziej krytycznedu couloir na częstość z jaką spadają kamienie. Śnieg dation launched an information be summiteers. Practical advice Glacier de Tête Rousse godziny są pomiędzy może natomiast częściowo chronić przedComment !!CHRONIĆ traverser .L’orsque la neige permet de bien crampo- ALERTER T . Wybieram campaign aimed at those who wish to and information is given in seven Stare schronisko Nowe schronisko 11 h a 13 h 30. porwaniem innych kamieni oraz amortyzujele couloirPrzede wszystkim du Goûter należy uniknąć ? dodatkowegoner wypadku, on peut se passer du câble. Dans le massif du Mont-Blanc, le téléphone Sinon, l’utiliser selon les préconisations passe généralement, tout comme la radio en Więcej informacji: odbijające się kamienie w żlebie. Comme surumieszczając les autres passages postronne des osoby itiné - w bezpiecznym miejscu. Nigdy nie przenosi się ofiary, chybadécrites (assurage en mouvement par112 un 150 MHz. Si aucun moyen ne fonctionne, climb up to the “roof of the Alps”. languages. For the Petzl Foundation, Grań Payot Grań www.fondation-petzl.org raires, l’appréciation des conditions du mo- że jest narażona na bezpośrednie encordement ajusté passant dans un mous- il faut envoyer un messager, si possible Entre 1990 et 2011, on a dénombré 74 Ramené à la ment demeure essentielle pour le choix des www.petzl-foundation.orgchute de pierres. niebezpieczeństwo. W takim wypadku queton entre deux membres de la cordée). accompagné, pour prévenir au refuge le techniques à mettre en œuvre. Les grands this leaflet is a follow-up to the couloir décès et 180 blessés sur cet itinéraire, entre les fréquentation, le nombre d’accidents est au należy uważać by głowa / szyja / kark były plus proche ou trouver une zone d’alerte. principes à retenir sont : Trawers refuges de Tête Rousse et du Goûter. moins aussi important à la descente, en par- ułożone liniowo, jak również by chronić Un seul numéro d’alerte : żlebu .Nie ociągać się w żlebie, ale też nie spieszyć This symbol of mountaineering some- du Goûter studies. Des réflexions sont Jaken cours trawersować pour limiter le żlebticulier sur l’arête. On sait aussi que les deux ofiarę przed zimnem. . się niepotrzebnie. .Toujours évoluer casqué et encordé. Lodowiec Tête Rousse fort danger objectif liéGoûter? aux chutes de pierres. tiers des victimes ne sont pas encordées, ou SECOURIR times conveys a negative image of Dans l’état actuel de l’itinéraire, les alpinistes 112 Tak jak przy innych częściach drogi:que ocena les accidents.Jeżeli touchant warunki les personnes śniegowe enca pozwalają- .S’équiper na WEZWAĆ bien avant de POMOC franchir le couloir Dans l’attente des secours, il faut parfois intervenir très rapidement pour : libérer les voies doivent connaître les bieżącychdangers et warunkówse préparer jest à kluczowadrées dopar un professionnelużycie raków sont można bien niemoins używać linyet pas surW ses masywie bords, Mont-Blanctrès exposés. zasięg sieci aériennes, stopper une hémorragie, faire un massage en cas d’arrêt cardiaque, sécuriser our sport. The number of people on Before embarking on this adventure, it komórkowej i radiowej (150 Mhz) jest les affronter. wybrania odpowiednich technik. nombreux. Należy Unestalowej. étude menée W durantinnym l’été wypadku 2011 stosować une victime consciente ou inconsciente. Ces gestes s’apprennent. Tout alpiniste devrait avoir .Bien observerzazwyczaj les dobry. conditions Jeżeli dunie momentma innego sposobu Environ la moitiépamiętać o najważniejszychdes ac- zasadach:sur le seul couloirsię permet do opisanych d’estimer qu’environ zaleceń (asekuracja suivi une formation de secourisme. certain days, the lack of respect for is necessary to know all the dangers. Pomiędzy 1990 a 2011 na ze spadającymi kamieniami. avant de należy décider, wysłać ou posłańca, non, de franchirw miarę możliwości le cidents ont lieu dans les un millier de personnesw ruchu, ontprzez été linę confrontées odpowiedniej de długości, Guider les secours en faisant un « Y » (yes) avec les bras levés, ou un SOS avec une lampe drodze między schroniskiem Tête Rousse W odniesieniu do natężenia ruchu ilość .Zawsze przemieszczać się w kasku,près z lotną ou de loinprzechodzącą à une chute przezde blocs, karabinek sur les pomiędzycouloir. z towarzyszem, by poinformować najbliższe schronisko lub 100 mètres asekuracjąde la. traver- ou écran de portable la nuit. En fonction du terrain, essayez de dégager une zone d’atterris- the site and for other people, failures Specific information is given about i schroniskiem Goûter zginęły 74 osoby, a 180 wypadków jest również poważna podczas 17 000 passagesdwoma estimés. członkami Si les zespołu).éboulements miejsce z którego można wezwać pomoc. Jeden numer ratunkowy: zostało rannych. zejścia, w szczególności na grani.sée Wiadomo du couloir, et un tiers .Quand on le peut, faire le guet à l’abri pour sage. Lorsque l’hélicoptère arrive, ne bougez plus et attendez les consignes. .Założyć odpowiedni sprzęt peuvent przed se produire à tout moment de la jour- 112 Les numéros utiles : Prowadzone są badania by ograniczyć duże jest również, że dwie trzecie ofiar nie było la cordée PIERWSZAqui vous précède. POMOC and tragedies all contribute to this the hazards of the normal route. sur l’arête. Latrawersem plupart sont żlebu, causés nie par na jego brzegach,née ou de la saison, on observe des facteurs ryzyko związane ze spadającymi kamieniami. związanych liną. Wypadki z przewodnikami W oczekiwaniu na ratowników należy czasami.Sur działać l’arête, bardzo utiliser szybko: les udrożnić câbles etdrogi leur an- Secours Alpins Valdotains : (+39) 800 319 319. le dévissage de l’alpiniste,które sątrès niebezpieczne. souvent corrélé aggravant ou réduisant le risque. deteriorating image. The mountain This leaflet was widely distributed on Na dzień dzisiejszy alpiniści muszą sobie są znacznie mniej liczne. Podczas badań .Ne pas traîneroddechowe, dans zatrzymać le couloir, krwawienie, mais sans zrobić masażcrage serca, pour zabezpieczyć un assurage przytomną en mouvement lub de Suisse (Rega) : 1414 ou de l’étranger +41 333 333 333. zdawać sprawę z zagrożenia i przygotować się w roku 2011 oszacowano, że kamieniedirectement spadały ou indirectement.Uważnie à une obserwować warunki przed se précipiter.nieprzytomną ofiarę. Tych rzeczy się trzeba lanauczyć. cordée, Każdy ce n’est alpinista pas une powinien via ferrata. przejść community can use its many talents site, on the web and with mountain do zmierzenia z nim. podczas około tysiąca na 17 000 przejść żlebu. podjęciem decyzji o trawersie żlebu lub przeszkolenie z ratownictwa. Mniej więcej połowa wypadków Kamienie mogą spadać o dowolnej porze jego zaniechaniu. Kierować ratowników robiąc rękoma literkę "Y" (yes) lub sygnalizując SOS latarką czołową by ensuring that the highest peak in magazines. With the help of the Petzl ma miejsce na 100 metrach dnia lub roku. Obserwuje się czynniki, które lub telefonem komórkowym (w nocy). W zależności od terenu należy starać się oczyścić trawersu, a jedna trzecia na zmniejszają lub zwiększają to zagrożenie. .Jeżeli jest to możliwe czekać w bezpiecznym lądowisko. Gdy przyleci helikopter należy pozostać na miejscu i czekać na wskazówki. the Alps remains exemplary and freely Group, it has already been translated grani. Większość z nich tu upadek alpinisty Specific informationmiejscu zanim poprzedzający is given zespół aboutNa grani the używać dohazards asekuracji lin stalowych of thePrzydatne normal numery: route. przejdzie. Secours Alpins Valdotains: (+39) 800 319 319. związany pośrednio albo bezpośrednio i ich zamocowań, ale pamiętać że to nie jest attainable by enhancing the Mont into French, German, Italian, Spanish, via ferrata. Szwajcaria (Rega): 1414 lub z zagranicy +41 333 333 333. Blanc experience. English, Polish and Czech. Dutch and With this in mind, in summer 2012, a Russian versions will be ready for The leaflet “Reaching the top of Mont Project partner for the leaflet: Mountain Coordination / www.coordination-montagne.fr. leaflet was created, including a map, summer 2013. Blanc” in Polish. Budget for the couloir du Goûter sudies: € 28,000 € in 2012,more than € 100,000 since 2009.

12 MONT BLANC 13 A Handbook for mountain club leaders

“I have met many climbers around the world, who told me they acquired their first basic mountain techniques by consulting the drawings illustra- ting Petzl catalogs. They are a magnificent treasure. When the Petzl Foundation proposed to make a handbook based on these illustrations, I was really enthusiastic about the project. The book can be used by anyone, regardless of their origin and education. It can also be used by those who are unable to read or write. The first version was successfully tested during training sessions in Nepal, organized jointly by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), the Petzl Foun- dation and the UIAA.

Thanks to the enthusiasm of the Petzl Foundation, the handbook was then developed and attracted the interest of federations who themselves possess first class expertise in the field. This handbook is designed to be an essential and practical addition to the existing literature available. It is designed to be used in the field to review and consolidate knowledge, which has not been fully assimilated.

It is proposed as an additional tool for outdoor clubs and organizations who wish to attain the training standards that were developed by the UIAA Mountaineering Commission. These training standards are prima- rily aimed at voluntary member organizations who want to improve their technical skills and reduce the risk inherent in the activity.

Its graphic style combined with its simplicity makes it an easy tool to use internationally. It will improve technical communication between climbers and mountaineers from every continent.”

Pierre Humblet, UIAA Mountaineering Commission president © Olivier Moret

2.5. Thanks to the technical and financial support of the Petzl Foundation, the International Mountai- Comment sécuriser un passage délicat ? La corde fixe CONNAISSANCES DE BASE P. 3 Sommaire La versionIl est françaiseparfois utile de ced’offrir Mémento une desaide techniques rassurante depour franchir une traversée exposée Cette technique ne peut être utilisée et d’un nœud en huit. Si on doute de neering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) has published a new "mountainA. ENVIRONNEMENT ...... skills handbook"5 which l’alpinismedans laquelle a été réalisée une glissade grâce seraità la coopération malvenue. On installe alors soit une main courante, que sur des portions courtes, franchis- la qualité des amarrages (becquets 1. Le milieu ...... 7 des organismessoit une corde suivants fixe. :Dans les deux cas, ne pas hésiter à encorder les randonneurs les sables sans avoir recours à l’escalade. Un rocheux, petits arbres, pitons en place, 2. La météorologie ...... 23 moins habiles si la chute est interdite. itinéraire de randonnée ne nécessite pas etc.) ne jamais fixer la corde sur un seul 3. L’orientation ...... 43 UIAA, Union internationale l’usage des mains en condition normale. point. is now available for national outdoor clubs and organizations. ThisB. CONDUITE 340-page DE GROUPE ...... book71 contains the des associations d’alpinisme Sur un amarrage indestructible (arbre Choisir donc de préférence un nœud 1. La gestion du groupe ...... 73 La main courante Monbijoustrasse 61, Postfach, massif), on fixe la corde à l’aide d’une permettant de se fixer directement sur 2 2. La prise de décisions ...... 77 On l’installe avec une3000 corde Berne en 23,utilisant Suisse. En fonction du terrain, on choisit le nœud sangle, d’un mousqueton de sécurité ou 3 ancrages : le nœud de huit double. essential knowledge required to become a hiking, climbing or mountaineeringC. ADAPTATION AU MILIEU ...... instructor.85 des ancrages en place (pitons, spits) ou papillon (main courante horizontale) www.theuiaa.org 1. L’alimentation et l’hydratation ...... 87 en plaçant des sangles sur des ancrages ou le nœud en huit directionnel (main 2. Le froid ...... 91 naturels. Le randonneur utilise la main courante montante ou descendante). 3. L’altitude ...... 99

montagne été montagne FFCAM, Fédération française 4. La foudre...... 103 courante pour s’équilibrer, comme sur la 5. Le soleil ...... 107 rampe d’un escalier.des clubs alpins et de montagne Partenaires D. SECOURS ...... 109 24, avenue Laumière, 1. Protéger, alerter, secourir ...... 111 75019 Paris, France 2. Évacuer un blessé ...... 125 www.ffcam.fr 3. Le matériel de soins ...... 131 his handbook is intended to was released in June 2012. It is already present all the techniques, or even the Le nœud de huit double RANDONNÉE ALPINE P. 133 Club alpin belge, Fédération be used by hikers, climbers out of print. A new improved edition best,1. L’équipement but ...... to explain135 proven techniques francophone d’escalade, 2. La progression ...... 139 d’alpinisme et de randonnée 3. L’hygiène en grande randonnée ...... 149 Ce mémento est destiné aux randonneurs, grimpeurs 129, avenue Albert Ier, and mountaineers wishing to is now in progress. The handbook is as 4.clearly Les cotations en randonnée as alpinepossible...... 155 This tool is desiou alpinistes- souhaitant aller plus loin dans leurs 5. Gérer et encadrer un séjour de trek ...... 159 B-5000 Namur, Belgique 6. Évaluation ...... 169 pratiques en se formant pour encadrer leur activité été montagne T www.clubalpin.be Le nœud de papillon favorite. Il a été spécialement conçu comme un outil expand their knowledge and skill level based on Petzl technical drawings, ESCALADEgned to allow allP. 171to share a commonde référence pour les initiateurs et les instructeurs Club alpin du Canada, École des clubs et fédérations de l’Union internationale des 1. L’équipement ...... 173 nationale d’escalade du Québec in order to supervise a team of moun- which are already well-known world- core2. L’encordement of knowledge ...... 187 and skills. associations d’alpinisme. Cet ouvrage est consacré aux 3. Les voies d’une longueur ...... 201 activités principalement estivales avec quatre modules : Box 8040 Station Main, 4. Le relais ...... 213 les connaissances de base, la randonnée alpine, Le nœud de huit directionnel201, Indian Flats Road, taineers. It has been specifically desi- wide. It was originally designed as a 5. Les voies de plusieurs longueurs ...... 225 l’escalade et l’alpinisme. Sa vocation est de présenter Canmore, Al, T1W 2T8, Canada 6. Le rappel ...... 231 www.alpineclubofcanada.ca, 7. Astuces et dépannages ...... 241 des techniques éprouvées, qui devront être apprises gned as a reference tool for trainers training course syllabus for Nepalese Originally8. Les cotations en rocher published ...... 259 in French, dans this le cadre d’une formation technique dispensée par www.eneq.info 9. Évaluation ...... 261 un spécialiste pour être vraiment maîtrisées. and instructors of mountain clubs and mountain professionals. The interest ALPINISMEhandbook will P. 265 hopefully formalizeVersion française réalisée en collaboration avec : 1. L’équipement ...... 267 Avec le soutien technique et financier 2. L’encordement ...... 271 de la Fondation Petzl outdoor organizations. It includes four shown in the original version sparked a common3. La progression ...... mountain279 language. An Mémento 4. Le relais ...... 295 ZI de Crolles, Cidex 105 A, 5. Le sauvetage en crevasse ...... 305 38920 Crolles, France modules: basic knowledge, alpine further work to create a fuller and English6. Astuces et dépannages version ...... made313 with the help 7. Les cotations en alpinisme ...... 321 www.fondation-petzl.org Connaissances de base - randonnée alpine - escalade - alpinisme alpine - escalade Connaissances de base - randonnée

8. Évaluation ...... 327 Mémento hiking, climbing and mountaineering. more comprehensive version. of the Alpine Club of Canada, should Avec le soutien de la Its purpose is to present proven tech- be available in summer 2013. It is 144 - Mémento > Randonnée alpine > La progression — 145 niques that can be acquired through The search for a clear, simple and currently being translated into Serbian, Pages from the alpine hiking module. technical training. universal style involved the best Petzl Turkish and Nepali. Other organiza- technicians, as well as contributors tions will sign an agreement with the The French version for the Belgian, from mountain clubs and outdoor Petzl Foundation to translate it into Canadian, and French alpine clubs organizations. The goal is not to their own languages. Project partner: International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) / www.theuiaa.org. Technical and financial support for completion of the handbook. Budget: € 22,000 in 2012. 14 FRANCE 15 Towards autonomy of training courses in Nepal

By setting up technical training for Talks with funding partners in the West trekking guides in Nepal, the Petzl have also progressed. By speaking Foundation wanted to transfer Petzl’s with one voice, the various organiza- training know-how to the Nepalese. tions involved in mountain safety in However, the goal of achieving total Nepal have now been heard and thier “The first time I ran a training training autonomy initially seemed to recommandations have been taken course, I felt I was doing some- be a major challenge. It is now well on board. The UIAA and the Petzl thing that was very useful. underway. Foundation contacted trainers from This time, I really understood Slovenia, who have been working with how much we had contributed Today, the British guide Steve Long, the Nepalese for the last thirty years. when I saw former students head of the working group on the become successful trainers.” UIAA training standards, has taken Last January, Eric Lescarcelle also over Eric’s monitoring of the training monitored trainer training under a provided by Nepalese trainers. He program set up by the Dutch non- came back very optimistic about the governmental organization: SNV. future. He felt that the Nepalese were Specializing in tourism develop- highly likely to obtain the UIAA approval ment, this NGO organizes training for their "trekking trainer” training. The for Nepalese tourist office staff who Petzl Foundation is already planning to accompany treks. move this group towards recognition of the Union of International Mountain In the future, this training will be Leader Associations (UIMLA), and provided by NMA trainers who them- "climbing trainer” training, in line with selves will have been trained with the the UIAA training standards. help of the Petzl Foundation. Éric Lescarcelle, Petzl after-sales department manager After the recognition of their mountain guides by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (UIAGM) in 2012, the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) is now on track to a recognition of its training courses for trekking guides by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA). With the help of the Petzl Foundation, Nepalese trainers are now moving towards autonomy.

he Foundation's goal is to provide Mani Kumar Rai and Man again. They basic technical training to enable had both undergone their initial training Ttrekking guides to properly in 2011. A native of western Nepal, “At the beginning, it was a bit supervise groups of hikers, especially Man has been fighting for the develop- difficult for me to speak to a guides who are already working, but ment of his region for ten years. When group of 15 trainees, because it who do not have the diploma. That he asked policymakers for resources, was the first time I taught at the was the original idea of Henry Sigayret he was criticized for his lack of skill and Kakani center. However if I am and Patrick Magnier, at the beginning experience. In the spring of 2012, he in this position now, it means of the project. This training is now climbed Everest to earn recognition! that it is possible for all of us. being organized in coordination with Today, he is committed to creating a The Nepalese have the ability the UIAA, so that Nepalese training topographical map of his region. to teach and it is my job to give acquires international recognition. them the technical and educa- The second surprise for Eric was to tional resources to succeed.” As a corporate volunteer, Eric Lescar- find Vinayak Jaye Malla among the celle, Petzl after-sales department future trainers. In 2011, Eric had intro- manager, supervised his first course duced him to climbing. In January in 2011. In January 2013, he returned 2012, he just managed to obtain a

to the training center in Kakani, near place to become a trainer. Photos © Eric Lescarcelle Kathmandu, where many positive surprises were waiting for him. Today, aged 24, Vinayak shares his time between studying economics Since his last course, some of his and a growing passion for climbing. former students had become trainers, He finished fourth in the last cham- Map reading and rope exercises during a course in Kakani, Nepal. with a great desire to share their pionships in Nepal and he has become Mani Kumar Raï, knowledge. He was pleased to see one of the best trainers there. Nepalese trainer

Project partners: International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) / www.theuiaa.org. and Nepal mountaineering association (NMA) / www.nepalmountaineering.org. Budget: € 8,000 in 2012, more than € 90,000 since 2006.

16 NEPAL 17 Piedra Parada, showing respect to a major site © Guillaume Vallot

In the heart of the Patagonian desert, Piedra Parada, the "stone", rises like a monolith defending the majestic 5 km-long canyon of La Buitreta in Argentina. A natural wonder to be discovered and preserved.

he 200 foot-high cliffs of La 1,500 km from Buenos Aires. The to the archaeological site. The first Buitreta hosted the Petzl Roc Trip archeological site at the entrance to historic routes, including the famous Tin November 2012.The develop- the canyon contains the oldest human "Mickey Mouse", have been pres- ment of a climbing area that respects dwellings in the region (more than erved: win-win negotiations! the environment and the history of this 5,000 years old). Today, this site is exceptional site deserved to have the under the protection of a designated In order to better welcome climbers to Petzl Foundation involved. Natural Area. the area, the Petzl Foundation helped improve the campsite close to the In rock formations created by a Through an agreement with the canyon, by building environmentally © Marie Guiguet © Stéphane Lozac'hmeur volcano that has been extinct for government of the Province of friendly hygiene facilities. This contri- thousands of years, Piedra Parada Chubut, the Petzl Foundation helped bution is fully in line with the values The Petzl Foundation has contributed to the protection of the March 2012: meeting between an archaeologist and and La Buitrera Canyon are home to to ensure access to the climbing sites of the Petzl Foundation: creating a archaeological site and to the promotion of the excavation a developer of the famous "Mickey Mouse" route. a highly diverse flora and fauna. More almost everywhere in the La Buitreta better balance between man and work done there. than 40 rock art, camp, and burial canyon. In return, in March 2012, nature, supporting environmentally- sites have been identified in this part climbers agreed to remove the clim- friendly tourism and respecting natural of the Chubut Valley, which is located bing routes which were too close heritage. Project partner: Acceso Argentina, with the contribution of Ecrin, Petzl distributor in Argentina. Budget: € 10,000 in 2012.

18 ARGENTINA 19 Mission to study very cold waterfall ice in Alaska Understanding mountain accidents

“Although we were wor- king separately, both Erin’s studies and ours shared a similar and complementary approach. It was a really interesting time! Jerome and I had direct contact with ice climbers, which guided our investiga- tions. By training students, Erin chose to give her project an educational slant, which was more academic. Our results corroborated each other’s studies, even though the conditions we were working under were very different. Finally, the installation of our data sensors into the waterfall ice in Alaska was a unique opportunity for us to extend © Philippe Descamps the range of validity of our findings. It was also the means for Erin to obtain Today, training and risk management in the mountains can no longer rely on the lessons of yester- additional data to calibrate day’s accidents. Due to the lack of accurate information and the absence of communication, several her models.” social science research laboratories have joined forces to launch an international study related to mountain sport accidents, with the support of the Petzl Foundation. Maurine Montagnat, researcher at the CNRS, manager of the Ice Crystal At the origin of this initiative was the belief, shared by many end at the French border, but will extend to other countries

© Maurine Montagnat project mountain professionals, that a comprehensive knowledge such as Switzerland, Austria, Italy, USA, Canada, Japan, of the frequency of accidents, their circumstances and risk and Nepal. This study will go beyond the statistics and factors is the basis for effective accident prevention. The seek to identify the scenario types, the natural phenomena, more we know about accidents, the better we can target objective hazards, and technical issues that either led to a From 2006 to 2010, initial research carried out on the waterfalls of Argentière, close to Chamonix, training and information given to mountaineers. near-miss or to serious accidents involving multiple victims. led to the first scientific publications. A new phase of research began in 2011. One thing is clear: plenty of data exists, but it is scattered, This action-research project should produce results, which inaccurate and often incomplete. For example, how many will be useful for the entire mountain community. It is totally The objective was to confirm the initial research findings The researchers then went on a field trip to the "Dragonfly" accidents occur during abseiling, belaying or because of in line with the mission statement of the Petzl Foundation, on other types of waterfall ice, termed "hot" or "cold" by waterfall (a "cold" ice fall) which had been chosen for bad weather? What was the skill level, experience, and which includes "accident prevention and risk manage- the scientists. In February 2012, the Nant d’Ant waterfall in research. This waterfall is not very high, but at the heart of composition of the group of mountaineers involved in any ment related to vertical activities." When each phase of the Samoëns (a "hot" ice fall) was chosen for the installation of winter, it grows to contain a substantial volume of ice. At the given accident? research has been completed, the results will be presented various monitoring sensors. foot of the waterfall, the ice thickness reached two meters. to the partners and further scientific discussion will ensue. The objective of this work is to identify as precisely as During winter 2012-2013, a partnership was set up between The French researchers used a mini-core drill to extract four possible the actual danger and the chain of events that This research will bring accident analysis into the modern the Laboratory of Glaciology of Grenoble and the University columns of ice from the waterfall core, as well as inserting lead to accidents, with a thorough investigation of moun- age and follows on from several initiatives launched these of Fairbanks in Alaska. In February, researchers from the pressure and temperature sensors. In addition to these taineering, canyoning and ski touring. The research will not past years by mountain sports organizations. Laboratory of Glaciology, Maurine Montagnat and Jerome instruments which had already been used in France, an Weiss, went to Alaska to meet Erin Pettit and her team from infrared camera was used to measure different tempera- the University of Fairbanks where they organized a seminar ture zones in the waterfall ice of Alaska. Erin Petit also used to present the "Ice Crystal" project to the research group. radar to measure ice density.

Project partners: Multidisciplinary research group from the Universities of Lyon 1, Grenoble, Clermont-Ferrand and Nice, Project partners: Glaciology and Geophysics of the Environment Laboratory and University of Fairbanks. with the scientific support of the Alpine Center for Studies and Research into the Natural Risk Prevention (PARN). Budget: € 22,500 in 2012, more than € 280,000 since 2006. Budget: € 5,500 in 2012.

20 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA FRANCE 21 A handbook for arborist rescuers Connecting those who need it most!

The tree care profession requires physical fitness and advanced technical skills, a thorough knowledge of trees, good risk management, as well as knowing how to provide assistance to an injured worker. In 2012, the Petzl Foundation decided to support the publication of a handbook for arborist rescue techniques.

Since 2005, French law has required arborists to obtain the “Our work in Dadaab is great certificate of climber rescuer. The French Society of Arbo- because even though it's not a riculture has published a training guide which outlines the permanent infrastructure installa- essential skills and techniques required when rescuing an tion, it alleviates the lack of ICTs injured person from a tree. and other communication services within the camp, providing connec- As a useful addition to this guide, Copalme, which is a tivity both to relief workers and ulti- French association of professional arborists, has published mately to camp residents.” a handbook which describes the Standard Response Plan (protect, alert and rescue). Rescuing an injured person who is suspended from a rope which is attached to a tree, Stephanie Seale, senior manager, requires excellent climbing skills. This handbook is an easy- program development, Inveneo to-read, practical and well-illustrated tool, based on tried and tested methods, which can be used in every situation.

However, this handbook cannot be used as a stand-alone Inveneo is a non-profit social enterprise which study guide. To obtain it, it is essential to have attended designs and delivers sustainable ICT tools an initial training or a refresher course on the techniques (information and communication technology required to provide help and assistance to an injured person in a tree. tools) to those who need it most in the develo- ping world. They aim to transform lives through

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tunities and faster relief. The Petzl Foundation Photos © Andris Bjornson .a.&/50 “ Being a true professional, %6(3*.1&634"67&5&63 has helped them by giving verticality training means knowing about 4&$063*45&%653"7"*- and providing climbing gear. safety hazards and how to prevent them. It also means being able to help an injured Tower climbing is becoming an increasingly critical compo- person when necessary. nent of their work as they implement more and more rural When doing work at height, wireless broadband projects with telecom service providers especially tree care, rescue in places like Haiti, Kenya and Uganda. Safe climbing is of techniques have to be great importance – whether by their own engineers or local planned and organized partners who will carry on the work.

so that we are ready to (6*%&13"5*26&%&5&33"*/ deal with any unexpected With the Petzl Foundation’s support, Inveneo has event.” &HUFOHGHUpIOH[LRQGHVDUERULVWHVIUDQFRSKRQHV expanded the work already accomplished in 2011. Newly- hired engineers have been trained on safe tower climbing techniques and the train-the-trainer capacity of Inveneo’s team has also progressed. No-cost or low-cost access to high quality tower-climbing equipment has also been facili- tated. Inveneo has pledged to develop a take-away training manual that trainees can use for ongoing self-support and © Arnaud Childéric maintenance. Internet networks in Dadaab, northeast Kenya. Dadaab Since 2006 they have led ICT projects and programs that is home to the world’s largest refugee camp, which is have improved the lives of over 3 million people in more estimated to hold over 400,000 people who have fled © Gilles Codina than 25 developing countries in Africa, the Caribbean, Asia/ conflict, famine and drought in nearby Somalia. NetHope, a Pacific and the Middle East. consortium of large humanitarian agencies, worked along- Alain Gourmaud, president of side Inveneo to bring connectivity to NGOs operating in Copalme and trainer at the Tours In March 2012, Inveneo was invited by UNHCR, the UN the camp. The engineers involved were trained on safe Fondettes training center Refugee Agency, to survey and deploy wireless broadband climbing and hauling techniques.

Project partner: Copalme association. Project partner: Inveneo / www.inveneo.org. Budget: € 2,000 in 2012. Budget: € 12,500 in 2011 and 2012.

22 FRANCE KENYA 23 Underground from Toulon to Bizerte Environmental caving inventory

Located in the hinterland of Grasse in the French Maritime Alps, the Calern plateau is home to an exceptional natural environment. Studied for over twenty years by professional and amateur conservationists, many species have been identified and protected in this region. However the caves had remained largely unexplored by this conservation group. “I saw tears of gratitude in the eyes of the older members of the club when we gave them the equip- The animal species that inhabit the caves and sinkholes of ment. The younger ones the Maritime Alps are still relatively unknown. With the finan- were overjoyed. Shiny new cial support of the Petzl Foundation, the Provence-Alpes- equipment and even rope Côte d'Azur Conservation Group began an environmental clamps! caving inventory to improve knowledge of these species.

For them it is a huge help: The unusual geology of this site, which is located on a large very few cavers can afford karstic plateau 1200 meters above sea level, has created a to have their own equip- distinct biodiversity. Eroded by the flow of rainwater through ment, they usually borrow the limestone, this area has very unusual rock formations, it for each caving trip. They which include panholes, pit caves and sinkholes. To date, really appreciated this gift.” 171 caves and pits have been identified on the Calern plateau, which makes it a favorite caving destination in the Maritime Alps. Many caves and pits are explored by cavers each year.

Chantal Balssa, The Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur Conservation Group has Toulon Caving Club brought together cavers, conservationists and scientists Photos © Toulon Caving Club Photos © Toulon to work on this project, which is aimed at gaining a better understanding of this underground world and its fragile ecosystem. Between 2011 and 2012, after selecting the caves and pits for study, sample-harvesting field trips were At the request of Tunisian cavers, nine members of the Toulon Caving Club went to Bizerte, to give organized. Sieving and harvesting actually took place on local cavers rescue techniques training. site in the caves and sinkholes. When rope access skills were required, volunteers from the Maritime Alps Caving Committee helped harvest the samples the scientists needed. In 2010, a young Tunisian student, who was a member of the Bizerte Youth Caving Club in Tunisia, joined the The species collected were later analyzed in the labora- Toulon Caving Club for a few months. During that time, he tory. As a result of this painstaking work, ten new species explored beautiful underground caves, acquired new skills have been identified, including the extremely rare Troglorites and learned basic rescue techniques. ochsi, as well as troglophiles which are an endemic species of the Caussols-Calern range. After the Jasmine Revolution resulting in the overthrow of the dictatorship of Ben Ali, the Toulon cavers decided to go to Tunisia in April 2012. They taught Tunisian cavers rescue techniques. The Tunisian Club sorely lacked equipment, Ménétrier © Florence especially rescue equipment, so the Petzl Foundation helped them by providing two full sets of gear. A tricky exit after a harvesting session.

Training days were organized primarily in the underground Sourour, Azziz and Myriem river and caves of the Jebel Serj mountain range. In Bizerte, discover the caving equipment the techniques were practiced on poles and trees to save donated by the Petzl Foundation.

valuable financial resources. These newly acquired tech- © Leslie Motta niques are now part of the activity program of the Bizerte Youth Caving Club.

To improve underground safety on a wider scale, Tunisian, Moroccan, and Algerian cavers have already planned future camps to share, compare and adapt these techniques. Selecting a sinkhole on the Calern plateau.

Project partner: Toulon Caving Club / speleo.club.toulon.free.fr. Project partner: Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur Conservation Group (CEN PACA) / www.cen-paca.org. Budget: rescue and caving equipment. Budget: € 2,000 in 2012.

24 TUNISIA MARITIME ALPS, FRANCE 25 Havens of tranquility in the mountains A new camp in the heart of the Mandé

“Our objective was to promote economic deve- lopment around climbing, by encouraging young people to be actively involved and responsible for the deve- lopment of tourism in their region, in accordance with “In 2008, at the start of the their own values, and those project, local authorities expressed of ecotourism. their enthusiasm. Today, with the support of the Petzl Foundation, This could not have been we have gone further in supporting done without them! During the idea that man must work toge- field missions, "participa- ther with nature for their mutual tion" was the key word. benefit. This new concept, which Solafrika acted as a tech- is a perfect opportunity for local nical and organizational government officials, is based on support consultant. All deci- the recognition of the quality of sions were made with An Ka their existing territory. ” Yelen.”

Julien Schira, Solafrika

© Solafrika project coordinator

Hut construction using mud bricks and a millet-straw roof. Wood-free building also helps combat deforestation.

The Mandé, "the cradle of Mali", is renowned for its natural and cultural heritage. 45 km from Bamako on the road to Guinea, the young people of the village of Siby climb in the Manding Mountains. Pauline Lévèque, Project manager, Climbing has become their profession. The Petzl Foundation supports them in the development of

© Vincent Neirinck / Mountain Wilderness Mountain Wilderness France this professional activity.

Frequently visited open spaces in the mountains The "havens of tranquility" project aims to set up a new Meaning "climb" in Bambara, An Ka Yelen is the name of After conducting a feasibility study in 2010 and acquiring close to urban areas are not generally protected concept of protection, which would be designed to preserve the climbing cooperative these young people created in land, the construction of buildings using traditional tech- open spaces in the mountains for humans, as opposed to 2005. Climbing on sandstone cliffs that surround the village niques began and was completed in 2012. Today, the by law. Yet, it is these areas that are most often spaces which are currently preserved for plant and animal of Siby is their passion. Climbing allows them to make a camp consists of a main building, a Nubian vault (which threatened by urban development programs, species only. decent living and enables them to remain in their village. houses an office, a reception area and cooking facilities), access roads and mountain tourist facilities. as well as four huts for visitor accommodation, composting In 2012, a working group including local government offi- Helped by the Calao Association, as well as professional toilets, showers and a well. cials and conservation associations drew up a clear defini- French climbing trainers, five young Malians have obtained The 1991 Alpine Convention provides for the preservation tion of a "haven of tranquility" and developed administrative their National Climbing Instructor diploma. Today, thanks As the main objective is the empowerment of local youth, of open spaces, with clearly defined "havens of tranquility", tools which would facilitate the practical application of the to their ability to communicate in French and English and they have also received hospitality, management, and but the recommendations put forward by the Convention Convention in the field. There are already several mountain their climbing safety skills, they are the only ones allowed to accounting training which are essential skills for the success have not always been applied. ranges near large urban areas where an initial implementa- accompany tourists on climbing trips. of their project. tion of these tools can begin. Since 2008, the Mountain Wilderness Association has been Strongly committed to further enhancing their profession, Unfortunately this project has been delayed by the current working on this issue. These open spaces in the mountains Thanks to this groundwork initiated by the Mountain Wilder- in 2009 they contacted the Solafrika Association for help in political situation in Mali, even though this site is far from do not have any unique features in terms of biodiversity, ness Association, potential "havens of tranquility" have creating a new camp. As a logical extension of the outdoor the combat zones. All hope that the camp will be able to which are required for an area to be protected under envi- been earmarked for future protection. The area around activities they have been involved in over the last ten years, officially open its doors in September 2013, ready for the ronmental legislation. They are simply natural beauty spots the monastery of the Grande Chartreuse in the Chartreuse the members of An Ka Yelen were keen to develop their new tourist season. which strongly attract potential investment from developers. Regional Nature Park may be the first to be protected. business in the field of ecotourism.

Project partner: Mountain Wilderness France / www.mountainwilderness.fr. Project partner: Association Solafrika / www.solafrika.com. Budget: € 6,000 in 2012. Budget: € 5,000 in 2012.

26 FRANCE MALI 27 Other projects supported in 2012

Saving monk seals in Mauritania Bats and caves, underground relationships A rare species of the Mediterranean Sea, the monk seal is critically endangered in the world. With the support of the Petzl Foundation, the Spanish association Too often victims of prejudice and CBD (Biodiverty Conservation) Habitat Foundation studied their movements to unfounded fears, bats have seen better understand their habitat.Today, the largest listed colony is nestled in the their number decrease significantly in sea caves of the peninsula of Cap Blanc in Mauritania, below almost inacces- the world. sible steep cliffs. To descend into the caves and conduct tagging operations, scientists have been trained in climbing techniques! The LPO (League for the Protection of Birds) manages bat protection A GPS system is hung on their fins when they are asleep. This device monitors plans in the Rhône-Alpes region the movement of the seal population. In 2012, scientists were able to track the of France. In addition to its inven- hunting route taken by the seals on the high seas, as well as their movements

tory and monitoring activities, they inside the caves. This monitoring process is essential to clearly identify the areas © SEOR increase awareness among cavers which need protection to ensure the survival of this species. during their caving certificate training. Together with cavers, they ensure Tropicbirds and climbers living that bats are undisturbed at certain together in harmony crucial periods of the year, while still allowing access at other less harmful An emblematic bird of Reunion periods. Island, the white-tailed tropicbird is the symbol of the entire Indian Ocean. The Petzl Foundation supports these The crumbling seafront cliffs in which actions and this necessary communi- they used to nest are now covered cation between all stakeholders. by metal protection nets, which make the coastal roads safe. This species has now moved into climbing sites,

© Chris Blakeley creating a delicate coexistence with climbers. Date palm farmers discussing their own home-made safety equipment.

© CDB Habitiat To prevent conflict, the Reunion Island society of ornithological Climbing palm trees, a dangerous job studies (SEOR) approached the regional climbing committee of the With over 10 million palm trees, the date palm is the basis of Saharan agricul- Encouraging free access to climbing sites in Latin America French mountaineering and clim- ture. In oases, date palm farmers are acrobatic climbers who perform a risky bing federation (FFME). Together,

business, often barefoot, with no real protection. What could be done to prevent Peyrard © Yoann The Access PanAm association they equipped some "buffer" zones falls? In 2012, The Petzl Foundation continued to support the international soli- was founded on the model of the to accommodate the tropicbird. In darity association BEDE, to help design an appropriate solution. Access Fund in the United States, 2011 and 2012, nesting boxes were to promote access to climbing sites installed with the help of qualified Several missions to the oases of Beni in Latin America, in conjunction climbers from the FFME who super- Isguen near Ghardaia (central Algeria) Training in India with local climbing groups. Access vised all rope operations. were conducted in 2011 and 2012 to PanAm carries out actions to unite better understand their needs and to The Indian Mountaineering Founda- climbers from different countries, so By supporting this initiative, the Petzl devise a safe, acceptable, and prac- tion has renewed its bid to monitor that they can share information and Foundation is helping to reconcile the tical technical solution. the UIAA training standards. experience of the issues they face. protection of this species and the practice of rock climbing. Chris Blakeley, a Petzl trainer and With this in mind, the Petzl Founda- In April 2012, a workshop for clim- for environmental protection called Marc Séraphin, a Petzl Foundation tion sent the Slovenian guide Matjaž bers and climbing activists was held Gorila, based around 5 light-hearted trustee, developed a technical solu- Šerkezi to Manali, India. In the Nehru in Rio de Janeiro, to strengthen their videos, which can be seen on tion together with the help of the Mountain Institute, as well as in the means of action in their struggle to www.accesopanam.com. Studying the moraine lakes in Petzl Customized Products business field, he supervised thirteen Indian improve access to climbing sites. A Nepal unit. This new equipment, composed guides who wished to learn advanced handbook to help them set up local The Petzl Foundation is helping of one harness and two adjustable mountain guide skills. Despite some organizations was published. They Access PanAm to defend the inte- In Nepal, the risk of flooding caused lanyards, considerably reduces the organizational difficulties, the Indian also ran a public education campaign rests of climbers in Latin America. by the rupture of glacial lake moraine risk inherent in work at height in guides showed great interest in the dams is very high. More than 2,000 date palm trees. In the words of techniques taught and were eager to lakes at risk have been identified by Chris Blakeley, "this solution goes far learn. the UN, 20 of which are particularly beyond what was originally planned. Wilderness Classroom dangerous for mountaineers and the This will give the climbers much Very often, when trying to set up an Himalayan people. better protection." internationally recognized training Wilderness Classroom is a non-profit organization that aims to improve the

© Chris Blakeley system, the first obstacles encoun- academic ability of schoolchildren by enabling them to discover and explore In 2012, the Petzl Foundation funded A prototype harness is in progress. It tered are administrative ones. the wonders of the wilderness. In 2012, they organized the North American an initial study to find a technical solu- will be tested during a mission in the Working in a date palm 30 meters high! Odyssey, which is an 11,700-mile voyage across America by kayak, canoe and tion that could be exported to many fall of 2013. dogsled. The main goal of this association is to educate children about these other similar sites around the world. wild places around the world, via their website and presentations in schools. 28 29 Other projects supported in 2012 Call for environmental projects

Exploring archaeological Every year, the Petzl Foundation supports associations by inviting them to present their environ- sites with Ukhupacha mental conservation projects that are related to Petzl’s main area of expertise: vertical terrain.

The Ukhupacha association helps More than just providing funding, the Petzl Foundation also offers practical assistance to these scientists to reach archaeological organizations. sites of the Andes, which are diffi- cult to access. This collaboration has

Photos © Ukhupacha made some interesting discoveries. To go further and give the researchers greater freedom of movement, the association has set up rope access

training for these scientists. Terre © Centre

The Petzl Foundation supports this action, and has funded a training handbook, which is scheduled to be completed in 2013.

Ultima Patagonia, an underground Selection criteria scientific expedition deep in Chilean Patagonia, was supported by the Petzl The project should: Foundation in 2008 and 2010.

> be proposed by a non-profit organization > aim to protect natural areas whose natural and recreation environments are directly threatened anywhere in the world, > be related to outdoor sporting activities like rock climbing, moun- taineering, or for the professional sectors, such as work at height, tree trimming, rescue, etc. > be focused on core problems and relate to preventive and not corrective action, Supporting the EOCA > directly involve the public, > be long-term, taking at least one to two years, The European Outdoor Conserva- > have a timeline and be results-oriented, with quantifiable objectives. tion Association (EOCA) is a group of businesses in the European outdoor 2013 call for projects dates: manufacturing industry, who have come together to raise investment - From June first 2013, complete the application (at www.fondation-petzl. The Petzl Foundation does not funds for conservation projects org/propose-project) by answering each question as clearly as possible. finance: worldwide. - File to be submitted in electronic format by September 15 2013, to the In the first 6 years of their exis- following address: [email protected] - Projects proposed by private indivi- tence, the EOCA have supported - October 2013, projects are selected by the Foundation’s Board of duals or profit-making organizations. 46 projects to the tune of over Trustees. €1,000,000. As a not-for-profit orga- - November 2013, among the selected projects, the best three are nomi- - Requests from public authorities nization, every new member that nated by the Petzl Foundation for the EOCA award and the possibility of or state delegations, except in the joins the EOCA means more money gaining additional funding of up to € 30, 000. field of research. for more projects. - July 2014, EOCA results are published. As one of its founding members, - Profit-oriented, promotional or the Petzl Foundation nominates three advertising projects. projects for funding each year.

Present your project: www.fondation-petzl.org/propose-project The best three projects will then be nominated by the Petzl Foundation for the European Outdoor Conservation Association award (EOCA). 30 31 Key figures

YEAR 2012 PROJECTS SUPPORTED IN 2012

After a first operating cycle from 2005 to 2010, the Petzl Foundation has been extended for an additional three-year In 2012, 84% of contributions were made to 19 projects over € 5,000. cycle., testifying to the commitment of the Petzl group and its foundation to the vertical community. € 30 000 1 - Climbing in Mali with Solafrika 2 - Reunion Island tropicbirds Fund use: € 334,796 3 - Canyons of Utah 25 000 4 - Access Pan America 5 - Piedra Parada in Argentina projects : 6 - Climbing training in Mali with Calao € 256,732 7 - Date palm farmers in Algeria 20 000 8 - Training in Nepal 9 - UIAA 23 % 10 - Inveneo 15 000 11 - Footbridge of the Conscrits 12 - Moraine lakes in Nepal 13 - Mountain techniques handbook 10 000 14 - Couloir du Goûter studies 15 - Ice waterfall research 16 - Mountain accidents study 5 000 17 - Mountain Citizen Meetings 18 - Boost projects general administration: 19 - Mountain Coordination € 78,064 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

77 % 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012

Income in € 451 114 311 910 398 239 283 357 337 542 401 433 351 917 Split

Project contributions 43 420 138 182 144 528 138 203 89 729 133 005 174 633 52 %

Other project costs 38 608 110 363 147 227 84 836 63 781 37 646 42 926 13 %

Taxes 569 588 886 794 677 401 412 0 % Project grant distribution: € 256,732 Salaries 64 655 120 599 166 506 177 031 182 311 112 463 111 223 33 % Uses Environment: Amortization 1 647 3 599 6 930 3 304 2 400 6 117 5 600 2 % € 62,881 Profit / loss 0 28 0 143 55 976 3 0 % Risk prevention and education: € 122,207 24 % Total uses 148 899 373 359 466 077 404 311 338 953 290 608 334 796

Net profit 302 215 - 61 449 - 67 838 - 120 954 - 1 411 110 825 17 121 Research: € 28,454 2006 / 2012 Répartition Section générale Projets 48 % 11 % Project contributions 861 700 37 % 565 861 135 Other project costs 525 387 22 % 333 567 191 820

Taxes 4 327 0 % 4 327

Future and other projects: Salaries 934 788 40 % 395 731 539 057 € 43,189 Amortization 29 597 1 % 29 597 Split of uses 17 % Profit / loss 1 205 0 % 1 204

Total uses 2 357 003 764 991 1 592 012

Net profit 178 509

The Petzl Foundation’s accounts are kept by the Petzl Group’s accounting department. Since 2006, the foundation has created, supported and funded more than 70 public interest projects throughout the world, The accounts are audited annually by CCI CONSEILS in Lyon. representing a contribution of more than 2.5 million euros, of which €1,592,000 have been spent directly on project grants. 32 33 In the words of the foundation trustees

The Petzl Foundation is an independent, legal entity controlled by a board of trustees. Seven qualified experts and five Petzl employees provide direction for the Foundations strategic choices.

EXTERNAL MEMBERS INTERNAL MEMBERS

Chris Blakeley, is originally from northern « Supporting some of the most inspired projects worldwide is gendarme and moun- « The foundation has helped to deepen my understanding of the Blaise Agresti, England and manages the development exciting, not only to see the benefits to the ventures themselves tain guide in Chamonix, is responsible for mountains, connecting worlds and taking action. With each project, of the Petzl Solutions network and also but more so to the communities involved. The variety and quality CNISAG mountain gendarme training. I become more aware of the urgent necessity to undertake joint practical experimentation within the of projects presented to the Petzl Foundation always impresses action, which crosses our divisions and boundaries. We owe it to V.axess building. me - and the commitment of their creators. » our children that these mountains remain alive and open to all. »

« Passionate about the mountains, sensitive to the environment Simone Allibert, chairman of Allibert « For me, beyond the Petzl company, the contribution from our Hervé Bodeau manages multimedia and its fragile ecosystems, I am delighted to be part of the Voyages, involved in promoting sustai- foundation to projects of general interest around safety and publications and corporate communi- Petzl Foundation, which is totally in line with my values. » nable development though responsible development of vertical activities is really meaningful. » cations within the Petzl group. tourism.

Bernard Amy, cognitive science resear- « Why did I agree to join the Petzl Foundation team? Peter Popall, a German national, is the « Access that seemed impossible has always been cher, one of the founders of Mountain First, because it is a great way to defend mountains and Petzl group’s current vice president, having my favorite challenge. Today, sharing this with Wilderness France, mountaineer, traveler mountaineers, and secondly, because it is a bridge between held various operational positions within the communities around the world is my motivation. » and writer. the world of industry and the world of mountaineering. » group. He is the soul of our commitment to the vertical world.

« Working with the Petzl Foundation gives me the opportunity Roody Rasmussen is currently Petzl « It is a joy and an honor to be part of the " Petzl band " through Éric de Kermel, Managing Director of to team with other like-minded organizations to bring America’s vice-president, having previously the Foundation. Behind the Petzl brand, there is a sense of Bayard Nature et Territoires, and Vice forth creative projects that benefit the environment, and been their president. He is very active in commitment to a renewed relationship between man and nature Chairman of the UICN. A man of convic- improve techniques and enhance safety for the greater the field of corporate philanthropy and is and the mountain universe, which is close to my heart.» tion and commitment to man and nature. climbing community. » currently the Foundation's project director for the Americas.

François Lemarchand, founder « When I created the Nature et Découvertes Foundation, 20 chairman of Nature & Découvertes, a years ago, I wanted all the people who work in the company to PRESIDENT long-standing supporter of conserva- share beliefs beyond simply doing a good job. The Foundation tion actions via his two foundations. has become one of the key sources of pride for all of our teams. Paul Petzl, founder and chairman, has committed his company to serve all vertical I hope the Petzl Foundation will follow the same path! » communities. For more than 30 years, implementing his employees’ innovative ideas has guided his choices.

« I was very honored when I was asked to join the Foundation Luc Moreau freelance glaciologist, team. Suggesting the study of waterfall ice was logical. Today, this Doctor of Alpine Geography, researcher study helps me during my course at ENSA, to provide answers to and author of several documentaries and frequently asked questions from aspiring guides.» films about glaciers. GENERAL SECRETARY PROJECT MANAGER

Philippe Descamps was appointed Stéphane Lozac'hmeur joined secretary general in March 2011. the foundation in October 2007. [email protected] [email protected] Marc Séraphin, trek leader and « The Foundation is a wonderful facilitator of communication. rope access technician. For instance, it has enabled me to enter the dangerous world of palm tree farming and help those people work more safely. » Annual report production:

Authors: Philippe Descamps / Stéphane Lozac'hmeur English translation: Stéphane Lozac'hmeur / Polly Brown Proofreader: Roody Rasmussen Graphic design & layout: Arnaud Michelland 34 35 © Gilles Lansard

PETZL FOUNDATION

ZI de Crolles Cidex 105 A 38 920 Crolles France [email protected] + 33 (0)4 56 58 19 98 www. petzl-foundation.org