©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Georgia & the Carolinas

Great Smoky Mountains North Charlotte Carolina National Park & the Coastal p313 Mountains Triangle North p282 p232 Carolina p254

North p125 Charleston & South ^# Carolina p46 p166

Augusta & South Georgia p151

Savannah & Coastal Georgia p89

Amy C Balfour, Jade Bremner, Ashley Harrell, MaSovaida Morgan, Kevin Raub, Regis St Louis, Greg Ward PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Georgia ATLANTA...... 46 Dahlonega...... 135 & the Carolinas...... 4 Amicalola Falls Georgia & the SAVANNAH ...... 138 Carolinas Map...... 6 & COASTAL Blue Ridge...... 139 Georgia & the GEORGIA...... 89 Blairsville...... 141 Carolinas Top 20 ...... 8 Savannah...... 91 Helen ...... 143 Need to Know...... 18 Coastal Georgia ...... 111 Clayton...... 146 Brunswick...... 111 If You Like...... 20 Tallulah Gorge Cumberland Island State Park...... 147 Month by Month. . . . . 23 & St Marys ...... 114 Toccoa...... 148 Itineraries ...... 26 St Simons Island. . . . . 119 ...... 122 AUGUSTA & Outdoor Activities. . . . 30 SOUTH GEORGIA. . . . 151 ...... 123 Eat & Drink Augusta...... 154 Like a Local...... 34 NORTH GEORGIA. . . . 125 Columbus ...... 160 Travel with Children. . . . 40 Athens...... 130 Senoia ...... 162 Regions at a Glance. . . . 42 SEANPAVONE/SHUTTERSTOCK © Contents

UNDERSTAND

CHARLESTON Upcountry...... 217 Georgia & the & SOUTH Greenville...... 219 Carolinas Today . . . . . 340 CAROLINA...... 166 History...... 342 CHARLOTTE & Charleston...... 167 THE TRIANGLE. . . . 232 Music...... 353 Lowcountry...... 192 Charlotte...... 233 People & Culture . . . . 358 Mt Pleasant...... 194 The Triangle...... 244 Hilton Head Island. . . . . 197 Landscape Raleigh...... 244 & Environment...... 361 Charleston County Sea Islands...... 199 Durham ...... 247 Beaufort...... 203 Chapel Hill & Carrboro ...... 252 Parris Island, St Helena Island COASTAL NORTH & Hunting Island ...... 207 CAROLINA...... 254 Myrtle Beach...... 209 ...... 255 Columbia...... 211 SURVIVAL Manteo...... 266 Congaree GUIDE National Park ...... 216 Ocracoke Island...... 268 Crystal Coast ...... 273 Directory A–Z...... 366 Beaufort...... 274 Transportation . . . . . 370 Wilmington ...... 277 Index...... 375 MOUNTAINS. . . . . 282 Map Legend...... 382 High Country...... 283 Blowing Rock ...... 283 Boone...... 286 Asheville ...... 288 ...... 299 Cherokee...... 302 Bryson City...... 304 Pisgah SPECIAL National Forest...... 305 FEATURES Brevard...... 310 Hiking in Nantahala Coastal Georgia...... 116 National Forest...... 311 Cycling & Hiking GREAT SMOKY in South Carolina. . . . 226 MOUNTAINS Blue Ridge Parkway NATIONAL PARK. . . . 313 Road Trip...... 306 Newfound Gap Road. . . . 315 Best Day Hikes Cades Cove...... 325 in the Cataloochee Valley National Park...... 328 & Balsam Mountain. . . . . 333 ST PHILIP’S CHURCH, Fontana Dam & Western Music...... 353 CHARLESTON P171 North Carolina ...... 336 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26

Itineraries

VIRGINIA

Chapel •#Durham •# TENNESSEE Hill •# Raleigh

NORTH É É CAROLINA •# Greenville É •# Wilmington

É •# SOUTH Atlanta •# Athens CAROLINA É

•#

Senoia É

•# Macon

É •#Charleston ALABAMA É GEORGIA AT L A N T I C # •#Savannah O C E A N

FLORIDA

2 WEEKS Georgia & the Carolinas Highlights

You’ll have to hit the ground running for this one. Start in Atlanta for three nights, spending two full days on the city’s excellent museums and the Martin Luther King Jr National Historic Site. Take time to walk, bike or jog the Atlanta BeltLine and drink or dine along the way at spots like Krog Street Market. On day three head east through Athens in time for an afternoon stroll and early dinner at the outstanding Home.made from Scratch; catch some live music if you can before hopping over to Greenville, two hours away. Get outdoors on the Swamp Rabbit Trail or take a walk through Falls Park on the Reedy and enjoy a good meal or three before heading on to the Triangle. Pick from Raleigh, Durham or Chapel Hill and spend a day and night – then it’s time to hit the beach. Wilmington is good for a relaxing day or two, or a fun night out on the riverfront. Then head south to Charleston for at least three days, meandering around the Historic District, visiting sights such as the Old Slave Mart Museum and the Nath- aniel Russell House and, of course, hitting the city’s hot dining scene. Then it’s south to Savannah to check out the artsy vibe at places like the Jepson Center for the Arts and unwind under the Spanish moss-draped live oaks in Forsyth Park. Conclude your trip by driving back to Atlanta with a break in Macon or Senoia if time permits. 27

NORTH CAROLINA Greenville •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

É É

•# Columbia É SOUTH •#Myrtle CAROLINA Beach

É It É i nerar

•# McClellanville GEORGIA Charleston

É •# i es •# McLeod Plantation

•#Beaufort AT L A N T I C •# St Helena Island O C E A N

2 WEEKS South Carolina Sampler

For those hungry for a taste of the whole dang state, including Upcountry hiking, Low- country adventuring, capitol crashing and even a stopover in tacky Myrtle Beach. Begin in Myrtle Beach, so you can get your putt-putt and deep-fried-seafood hanker- ings out of the way (it only gets better from here). It’s usually cheap to fly in. Base your number of nights in Myrtle on how much you love America, and continue on to the state capitol, Columbia, which is far more interesting than it usually gets credit for. You can tour the State House and party with college students at Five Points before continuing on to ‘it city’ Greenville. Spend a few nights here, giving yourself time for day trips to the nearby state and national parks, which offer superb hiking. Be sure to also stroll over the stunning Lib- erty Bridge in Falls Park on the Reedy and take a peek at up-and-coming art galleries and locavore restaurants in West Greenville. Try a few craft beers but not so many that you can’t drive back through Columbia to Beaufort, South Carolina’s most darling little town. Spend at least two nights relaxing by the waterfront and paddleboarding out to the sandbar. On neighboring St Helena Island, visit the Penn Center and hop on a Gul- lah tour for a wonderful introduction to the Gullah people, who have fought for centuries to keep alive the customs of their enslaved ancestors brought from West Africa. Finally, finish the trip with South Carolina’s crown jewel, Charleston. Spend at least five days here exploring the downtown, wandering the Historic District’s cobblestone and brick alleyways and admiring the meticulously preserved antebellum mansions and historic churches. Pop over to McLeod Plantation for an inside look at a typical Sea Island cotton plantation, which was at one time occupied by both the Confederate and Union forces, along with a federal agency that helped transition emancipated slaves. Head back up the coast to Myrtle Beach if you’ve got a round-trip flight, and be sure to stop for lunch along the way at TW Graham & Co in McClellanville for the best fried seafood in the state. 28

TENNESSEE NORTH •# CAROLINA Blue Ridge É

É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN •#Athens SOUTH Atlanta •# CAROLINA

ALABAMA

É GEORGIA It i nerar

•# Savannah AT L A N T I C

i es É É O C E A N

•#Sapelo Island •# St Simons Island •# Jekyll Island FLORIDA •# Cumberland Island

10 DAYS The Best of Georgia

From cosmopolitan Atlanta and artsy Athens in the north to historic Savannah and the barrier islands of its pretty and protected southeastern coast – Georgia is chock-full of diverse geography and storied history. This long Atlanta to Atlanta loop will hook y’all with city, sand and Southern hospitality. Land at the world’s busiest airport in Atlanta and spend a few days putting a little South in your mouth in the city’s top restaurants. Immerse yourself in all things MLK at the Martin Luther King Jr National Historic Site and visit the world-class museums. At night, take a stroll along the Atlanta BeltLine Eastside Trail, drinking and eating your way through its good-time breweries and restaurants. Head north from the city to the and the appropriately named Blue Ridge, North Georgia’s most charming mountain town – consider a ride on its scenic railway. You’re in Appalachia, so woodland warriors might want to delay their departure to explore many of the hikes in the surrounding area. Heading southeast, spend a day in Athens enjoying its bustling and bohemian downtown – take in a University of Georgia football game if you can – then make a break for the coast. First stop: Savannah. Wander its moss-draped public squares taking in historic museums and drool-worthy Southern food for at least two days. Just south of Savannah, Georgia’s sea islands beckon. Take a culturally rich night on the Gullah-Geechee Sapelo Island – you must make prior arrangements and bring your own food – then head south to St Simons Island, the largest and most developed of the Golden Isles, full of pretty beaches and wonderful golf courses. Further south is Jekyll Island – the historic Jekyll Island Club Hotel was the stomping ground of Gilded Age millionaires. Continue the southern trajectory to Cumberland Island, home to the wild and remote Cumberland Island National Seashore. Only 300 people per day are allowed to visit, so you’ll have (mostly) your own little piece of paradise here. 29

VIRGINIA

SOUTH CAROLINA PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Charleston•#

TENNESSEE Boone É •# Wadmalaw •# James Grandfather

Island R •#

É É Island

ACE•# Mountain

•# É •#Folly

Basin É É É Linville Blowing Beach Falls •# Edisto Tsali Rock

•# Recreation Island •#Botany É Bay Area NORTH CAROLINA

Bryson •#Asheville É •# Beaufort É

City It •# É •# •#Chimney

÷# i nerar •# Cherokee Rock AT L A N T I C Nantahala O C E A N Outdoor Center i es

SOUTH CAROLINA GEORGIA

1 Lowcountry 1 Blue Ridge to WEEK Cruiser WEEK the Smokies

With a good set of wheels and an apprecia- Above all – literally – it’s the magnificent tion for seafood, history and natural beauty mountains that make North Carolina you’ll be covered on this little trip. special. To savor their full splendor, spend a week driving the Blue Ridge Parkway, Chances are you’ll fly into Charleston. hiking and biking and staying in cool col- Many of the states’s best experiences and lege towns such as Asheville and Boone. restaurants are concentrated in and around the city, so spend three days visiting top Start your road trip with two nights in sights and a couple of the plantations ei- funky Boone, a couple of hours’ drive from ther on the Ashley River or over on James either Charlotte or the Virginia state line. Island (hit the Charleston Tea Plantation While in the area, hike up to the Mile High on Wadmalaw Island while you’re at it). Swinging Bridge at Grandfather Moun- Then roll over to laid-back Folly Beach for tain, and out to Linville Falls, breaking a night, where you can get a fabulous rental for lunch in Blowing Rock. Now cruise on house or stay in a charming B&B right on west, and in under half a day you’ll reach the water. the mountains’ ‘capital,’ Asheville. Allow a (very) good three nights to do Beer City’s Venture south the next day, with a stop breweries justice, slurp up some barbecue, at Edisto Island to explore some unadul- and swoon at the opulent Biltmore Estate, terated coastline at Botany Bay. Double plus take a day trip south to back and make a stop at the seductively Chimney Rock. Then follow the parkway west again, swampy ACE Basin to look for whooping pausing to learn about the Trail of Tears in cranes before pressing on to Beaufort, , and a morning’s drive will bring South Carolina’s friendliest, most delight- Cherokee you to your final two-night stop, ful small town. It’s sort of like a mini- Bryson . While there, be sure to cycle the lake- Charleston, with an adorable downtown City shore in the nearby , and abundant antebellum mansions in The Tsali Recreation Area or raft at the , Point neighborhood (see them by carriage). Nantahala Outdoor Center and venture into Great Smoky Mountains Stay two nights before retracing your steps National Park before you head home. to Charleston. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 373

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

unbridled enthusiasm; Halsey Perrin, Kim Jamieson WRITER THANKS and Ruta Fox for your help and expertise; and Chris Amy C Balfour Dorsel for still being amazing. Thank you to Tennessee locals Melissa Peeler and Lauren Batte for joining me on this adventure for a MaSovaida Morgan few days and sharing their expertise. Thanks also to Thank you to the lovely souls in Savannah and Katie Lane, Teddy Colocotronis, Scooter Colocotronis, beyond who provided tips, guidance and feedback Stephanie Baker Jones, Chad Graddy, Jim Hester, for this project. In particular, many thanks to Chad Deborah Stacy Gebhardt, Jimmy Surface, Marjorie Faries and Emily Jones, Robert Firth, and Trisha Ping Joyce, Buck the Cataloochee camp host, the Cades for bringing me on. Special thanks and love to Ny, Cove campfire and moonshine crew, and Lane and Ty and Haj. Beth Lastinger – Pilot Cove hosts extraordinaire. Many, many thanks to co-writer Regis St Louis and Kevin Raub Destination Editor Trisha Ping. Thanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, Trisha Ping and my fellow Georgian in crime, MaSovaida Jade Bremner Morgan, and Jade Bremner. On the road, Jason Thanks to knowledgeable Destination Editor Trisha and Jennifer Hatfield, David and Aynsley Corbett, Ping for all her wisdom on the Southern States. Plus, Jeff Fenn, Sharon Crenshaw, Jerry Brown, Tobie the hardworking Georgia and North Carolina barbe- Chandler, Teka Earnhardt, Jode Mull, David Junker, cue chefs for cooking all that mind-blowingly good Travis Currie, Hannah Amick, Mary Reynolds, Jenny smoky meat and sauce that fueled my entire trip Odom, Mary Reynolds, Sarah Horten and Keaton around the South. Thanks to North Carolina locals Thurmond. Norm and Skye for their top tips and local advice. Last, but definitely not least, thanks to everyone Regis St Louis working hard behind the scenes – Cheree Broughton, Many thanks to Trisha Ping for inviting me on board, Dianne and Jane, Helen Elfer and Neill Coen. and to Amy Balfour for sharing tips. I’m grateful for the insight shared by the many park rangers, back- Ashley Harrell packers and hikers I met along the Thanks to Erin Morris for welcoming me to your way. Special thanks to my wife Cassandra and our state; Kourtnay King and Paul Haynes for taking me daughters Magdalena and Genevieve, who joined me in and enabling me; Chandler Routman for getting for frosty nights of camping and some magnificent me out of the house; Jason, Elizabeth, Iris and Loulou hikes throughout the park. Ryan for being a great family; Patty Pascal for your 374 Greg Ward Thanks to the many wonderful people who helped me on the road, especially at Historic Stagville Plantation, Price’s Chicken Coop, Bryson City Bicycles and the Orange County Visitor Center. Thanks too to my editor Trisha Ping for giving

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND me this opportunity, and to my dear wife Sam for everything else.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Fall cypress trees, Georgia, Joanna Wells/AWL©

Destination Editor Assisting Cartographers THIS BOOK Trisha Ping Anita Banh, Corey Hutchison, This 2nd edition of Lonely Senior Product Editors Julie Sheridan, Diana Von Planet’s Georgia & the Vicky Smith, Grace Dobell Holdt Carolinas guidebook was Product Editors Cover Researcher curated by Trisha Ping and Rachel Rawling, Kate Mathews Naomi Parker Amy C Balfour, and researched Senior Cartographer Thanks to and written by Amy C Balfour, Alison Lyall Imogen Bannister, Piotr Jade Bremner, Ashley Harrell, Czajkowski, Shona Gray, Kate MaSovaida Morgan, Kevin Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep James, Alicia Johnson, Sandie Raub, Regis St Louis and Greg Kestell, Chris LeeAck, Liam Assisting Editors Ward. The previous edition was McGrellis, Martine Power, James Bainbridge, Nigel Chin, written by Jeremy Gray, Jeff Kirsten Rawlings, Kathryn Andrea Dobbin, Bruce Evans, Davis and China Williams. This Rowan, Wibowo Rusli, Amanda Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, guidebook was produced by Williamson the following: Lou McGregor, Charlotte Orr ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 375

Index

2nd Sunday on King 177-8 South Carolina food 46, 60-73 beer 20, see also breweries Aquarium 172 highlights 47 bicycling 221, 270, 304, area codes 368 LGBTIQ+ travelers 83 371, see also mountain A biking accessible travel 102, 230, art galleries, see safety 87 243, 304, 366 museums & galleries shopping 82-7 Atlanta BeltLine 17 accommodations 366, Artisphere 221 sights 48-53 Cades Cove 332 367, see also individual Arts in the Heart of tourist information 88 Chief Ladiga Trail 54 Augusta 155 locations tours 53-4 Firefly Trail 130 ArtWalk 177 activities 22, 23-5, 30-3, travel seasons 46 Raleigh 246 see also individual Asheville 14, 288-99, 308- travel to/from 88 Silver Comet Trail 54 activities, individual 9, 290, 14 travel within 48, 88 Swamp Rabbit Trail locations accommodations 290-2 226, 226 walking tours 57, 68-9, African American music activities 289 57, 69 Big Creek 333 353, 355 breweries 297 Atlanta BeltLine 17, 53, Bill Murray Look-a-Like air travel 370, 371, see children, travel with 292 Polar Plunge 178 also individual 57, 57, 17 day trips 294-5 bird-watching 334 locations Atlanta Dogwood Festival drinking & nightlife Blairsville 141-3 airports 370 54-5 296-8 Blowing Rock 283-6, 307 Alexandria Safe-Zone 163 54 festivals & events 290 blue crab 114 alligators 158 Festival 55 food 292-6 Blue Ridge 139-41, 140 Allman Brothers Band 155 ATMs 18, 368 highlights 293 Blue Ridge Scenic Alum Cave Bluffs 328-9 Augusta 154-9, 156-7 LGBTIQ+ travelers 296 Railway 139 Amicalola Falls State Park music 298 bluegrass music 356 138-9 shopping 298-9 B blues music 353 amusement parks Balsam Mountain 333-6 sights 289 boat travel 371, see also Family Kingdom 210 barbecue 35, 143, 165 tours 289 canoeing, sailing Neptune Park 119 bathrooms 368-9 travel to/from 299 Bodie Island Lighthouse SkyWheel 210 Battle of Atlanta travel within 299 258, 21 Tweetsie Railroad 286 Cyclorama 53 Ashley River 190 books 55, 340, 350, 351, animals 364, see also beaches 32 357 Athens 130-5, 132 individual species Cumberland Island Boone 286-8, 307 Atlanta 10, 46-88, 47, Appalachian Beach 115 bowling 173 mountains 361 50, 62-3, 74-5, 80, Emerald Isle Beach 273 84-5, 10 Brevard 295, 310-11 Appalachian music 355-6 Folly Beach 200 accommodations 46, breweries 173 Appalachian Summer 55-60 Kiawah Beachwater BREW-ed 289 Festival 287 Park 200 activities 53 Burial 297 Appalachian Trail 319 Myrtle Beach 209-11 climate 46 Funkatorium 297 aquariums North Beach clothing 49 Holy City Brewing 187 Georgia Aquarium 48 (Savannah) 91 drinking & nightlife Hunter-Gatherer North Carolina Ocracoke Beach 268 73-80 Brewery at Aquarium 273 bears 334 emergencies 87 Curtiss-Wright Hangar Beaufort (North Carolina) entertainment 80-2 214, 215 274-7, 276-7 etiquette 87-8 tours 173, 279 Map Pages 000 Beaufort (South Carolina) Wedge Brewing 297 festivals & events 54-5 10, 203-7, 204, 10 Photo Pages 000 Wicked Weed 297 376 Brown, James 353 etiquette 191-2 Duke Chapel 248 Craft Fair of the Brunswick 111-14 festivals & events 177-8 Ebenezer Baptist Southern Bryson City 304-5 firsts 173 Church (New) 49 Highlands 290 Buck, Peter 131 food 166, 180-6 First African Baptist Crystal Coast 273-7 budget 19 highlights 168-9 Church 92 culture 20, 358-60 Buford Highway 67 history 167 First Ebenezer Baptist Cumberland Island 11, INDEX INDEX Church 50 114-19, 11, 117 Bulls Island 192, 193 internet access 192 Methodist Church Currahee Military bus travel 370, 371-2 itineraries 171 (Cades Cove) 326 Weekend 149 business hours 368 LGBTIQ+ travelers 192 B- Missionary Baptist currency 18 

F medical services 192  Church 326 cycling, see bicycling C packing 179 Palmer Chapel 334 Cades Cove 325-33, safety 191 Primitive Baptist 326-7 shopping 189-91 Church 326 D Dahlonega 135-8, 136 campsites 335 sights 167-76 St James Santee Davis, Ann 351 canoeing 216 tourist information 192 Parish Church 193 de Soto, Hernando 345, Cape Hatteras National tours 176-7 St Michael’s 349-50 Seashore 255 travel to/from 192 Church 170 Decatur 72 car travel 371, 372, see travel within 192 St Philip’s Church 171 desserts 36, 37 also road trips, scenic walking tour 184-5, 185 Civil Rights movement drives discount cards 369 Charleston County Sea 251, 344, 347 diving 218, 273 Carlos C Campbell Islands 199-203 Civil War 343-4, 346-7, Overlook 317 348 55 Charlotte 233-43, 238-9 Carolina Chocolate driving 309, see also car accessible travel 243 Clayton 146-7 Drops 357 travel, road trips, accommodations 232, climate 18, 23-5, 31, Carolina Shag 357 scenic drives 237-8 363-4, 366 Carrboro 252, 253 Duke University 247- activities 237 climate change 363-4, Carter, Jimmy 162 370 8, 16 children, travel with Durham 247-51, 248-9 Cataloochee Valley 333-6 243 316 cell phones 18 drinking & nightlife Coastal Georgia 89-90, cemeteries 240-1 111-24, 90, 112 E Bonaventure emergency numbers accommodations 89 electricity 366-7 Cemetery 91 243 climate 89 elk 334, 9 Colonial Park entertainment 241-2 food 89-90 embassies 366 Cemetery 93 festivals & events 237 highlights 90 emergency numbers 19 Laurel Grove food 232, 238-40 hiking 116-17, 116 English people 359 Cemetery 96 itineraries 236 travel seasons 89 environmental issues Oakland Cemetery 51 LGBTIQ+ travelers 241 coastal plain 362-3 361-4, 370 Old Burying Ground orientation 240 colleges, see universities etiquette 274-5 shopping 242-3 & colleges Atlanta 49 Cobb, James 344 Charleston 191-2 13, 48, 13 sights 233-7 Columbia 211-15, 212-13 Savannah 103 Chapel Hill 252-3 travel to/from 243 Columbus 160-2, 161 Euphoria 221 Charleston 9, 167-92, travel within 243 Confederate monuments events 23-5, see also 174-5, 8-9 Charlotte Pride Festival & Parade 237 341, 344 individual events, accommodations 166, Congaree National Park individual locations 178-80 cheese 37 12, 216-17, 12 Cherokee 294, 302-4 exchange rates 19 activities 172-6 Conroy, Pat 206 Cherokee Nation 217 barbecue 186 consulates 366 Cherokee people 303, F children, travel with 178 cooking courses drinking 186-9 358-9 farms children, travel with 40-1, Chef Darin’s Kitchen City Roots 212 emergency Table 97 numbers 191 see also individual Festival of Houses locations Cooper River Bridge & Gardens 178 entertainment 189 Run 178 Chimney Rock 299, festivals 23-5, see 300-1 Cosby 333 also music festivals, churches & cathedrals costs 19, 367, 368, see individual festivals, Map Pages 000 Cathedral of St John also money individual locations Photo Pages 000 the Baptist 92 country music 355 films 163, 340 377 fireflies 318 hiking 316, 317, 318-20, Pisgah National Hootie & the Blowfish First Friday 113 328-31, 335-6, 338, Forest 310 353, 357 fishing 139, 269-70 329 Providence Canyon 158 horseback riding 198 Foggy Mountain Gem history 349-52 Road to Nowhere 304-5 Great Smoky Mine 287 scenic drives 337, 337 South Carolina Mountains National Fontana Dam 336 tourist information 226-7, 226 Park 316, 320, 332 Fontana Lake 338 316, 323 Tallulah Gorge 128-9 Hunting Island 207-9 INDEX food 12, 20, 34-9, 367, travel seasons 313 Tallulah Gorge State Hurricane Florence 209, 368, 12, see also travel to/from 323 Park 148 255 -individual locations travel within 323-5 West Ridge Trail 138  F J  budget foods 39 views 313 Hilton Head 17, 197-9, 17 I eating places 38 Greensboro 251 hip-hop music 354 immigration 369 meal times 37-8 Greenville 219-31, 220, historic buildings, see Indie Grits Festival 214 menu terms 38 225 notable buildings, indoor climbing 289 seasonal variations 35 children, travel with 228 plantations Inman Park Festival 54 specialties 39, 61 Greenville Craft Beer historic sites insurance 367, 372 Food & Wine Festival Festival 228 American Tobacco internet access 367-8 Campus 247 (Charleston) 178 330-1 internet resources 19 Angel Oak Tree 200 forts grits 35-6 islands 22 123 Grizzard, Lewis 359 Battleship North Carolina 278 Bulls Island 192, 193 guinea fowl 181 Cape Hatteras National 273 Gullah culture 360 Cable Mill Historic Area 325 Seashore 255 Fort Moultrie 200-1 Gullah Festival 206 Dungeness Ruins 115 Charleston County Sea Fort Pulaski National Islands 199-203 Monument 91 Elkmont Historic H District 317 Cumberland Island Fort Sumter National health 367 114-19, 117 Monument 16, Fort Raleigh National Helen 143-6 Historic Site 266-7 Daufuskie Island 192-3 172, 16 Edisto Island 200 French & Indian War 346 highways 371 Fort Sumter National Monument 172 Hilton Head Island fried green tomatoes hiking 31-2, 33, 142 Hagood Mill Historic 197-9 36-7 Appalachian Approach Trail 138 Site & Folklore Hunting Island 207 Appalachian Trail 319 Center 218 James Island 200 G Atlanta BeltLine 17, 53 Kings Mountain Jekyll Island 122-3 National Military gay travelers see Blue Ridge 139 Johns Island 200 LGBTIQ+ travelers Park 218 Cades Cove 327-32 Kiawah Island 200 geography 361-3 Martin Luther King Jr Little Tybee Island 91 Chattahoochee River National Historic geology 361-3 Ocracoke Island 268-72 Walk 160-1 Site 49-50 German people 359-60 Parris Island 207-9 Chimney Rock 300-1 Roanoke Island Festival Gillespie, Dizzy 356 Congaree National Park 266 Sapelo Island 123-4 golf 119-20 Park 216 Traveler’s Rest State St Helena Island 207-9 Gone with the Wind 344 Cumberland Island Historic Site 149 St Simons Island 119- Graham, Billy 236-7 Hike 116-17, 116 history 21, 342-52 22, 120 Grandaddy Mimm’s Currahee books 350, 351 Wadmalaw Island 201 distillery 141-2 Mountain 149 Charleston 167 itineraries 26-9, 26, 27, Duke Forest 249 28, 29 Civil War 343-4, 346-7, 283, 307-8 East Ridge Trail 138 348 Charleston 171 Great Smoky Mountains Firefly Trail 130 colonial period 342-3, Charlotte 236 National Park 9, 33, Great Smoky 345-6 Greenville & Cherokee 313-38, 314, 320-1, Mountains National Foothills 222-5, 9, 33 French & Indian War Park 316, 317, 318- 346 222-3 accommodations 313, 20, 328-31, 335-6, North Carolina 294-5 322-3, 332-3, 335, Great Smoky 338, 329 South Carolina 222-5, 336, 338 Mountains National McQueen’s Island Park 349-52 222-3, 306 activities 316, 317-21, Historic Trail 97 Revolutionary War 348 327-32, 335-6, 338 Mt Pisgah Trail 309 hitchhiking 372 courses 321-2 Nantahala National J holidays 368 highlights 314 Forest 312 jazz 353 Jekyll Island 122-3 378 K money 18, 19, 368 Breman Museum 52 Greenville County Kahal Kadosh Beth monuments & memorials Calhoun Mansion 170 Museum of Art 221 Elohim synagogue 173 21, see also Carolina Basketball Harvey B Gantt Center kayaking 139, 158, 195, confederate Museum 252 236 259 monuments Carson McCullers High Museum of Art 52 Kephart, Horace 362 African American Center for Writers & Ice House Museum

INDEX INDEX Monument 93 kitesurfing 259 Musicians 160 115-18 Cowpens National Krispy Kreme Center for Civil & International Civil Battlefield 218 doughnuts 36 Human Rights 48 Rights Center &

K- Doc Watson Statue 287 Center for Puppetry Museum 251 

M Fort Sumter National Arts 52 Jekyll Island Museum  L Monument 16, Charleston Museum 172 122 Lake Jocassee 218 172, 16 Charlotte Museum of Jepson Center for the language 18, 275 Haitian Monument 93 History 236 Arts 92 LGBTIQ+ travelers 269, Martin Luther King Jr Children’s Museum of Jimmy Carter 368 National Historic Site Atlanta 49 Presidential Library lighthouses 15, 49-50, 15 Citadel Campus & & Museum 51 Bodie Island Thomas Wolfe Museum 172 Karpeles Manuscript Lighthouse 258 Memorial 289 Coastal Discovery Library Museum 173 Cape Hatteras Waving Girl Statue 93 Museum 197 Levine Museum of the Lighthouse 258 Weeping Time Plaque Coca-Cola Space New South 233 Currituck Beach 97 Science Center 160 Lighthouse Museum 119 Lighthouse 259 Wright Brothers College Football Hall of Margaret Mitchell Harbour Town National Memorial Fame 48 House & Museum 52 Lighthouse 198 255, 21 Colleton Museum & Mint Museum Ocracoke Lighthouse Moses H Cone Memorial Farmers Market 193 Randolph 233 268-9 Park 307 Columbia Museum of Mint Museum Tybee Island Light motorcycle travel Art 213 Uptown 233 Station & Museum 371, 372 Corolla Wild Horse Mountain Farm 91 mountain biking Fund Museum 258 Museum 315-16 Linville Falls 294 Brevard 311 Cumberland Island Museum of Life literature, see books Nantahala National National Seashore & Science 247 Lords Proprietors 346 Forest 312 Museum 115 Museum of Mountain Lowcountry 192-209, 196 Pisgah National Currahee Military Life 141 Lowcountry Oyster Forest 310 Museum 148-9 Museum of the Bizarre Festival 195 Tsali Recreation Dahlonega Courthouse 278-9 Area 301 Gold Museum 135 Museum of the Mount Olive Pickles 36 David Williams House Cherokee in South M Mt LeConte 316-17 Museum 268 Carolina 217 Macon 155 Mt Pleasant 194-6 Discovery Place Museum of the Manteo 266-8 Cherokee Indian Murray, Bill 188 Science 233 MARTA 372 294, 302 museums & galleries 21-2 Fernbank Museum of Martin, Eddie Owens 163 Natural History 51 NASCAR Hall of Fame 4-H Tidelands Nature Martin Luther King Jr 236 Center 122 Flannery O’Connor Birthplace 49 Childhood Home 92 Nasher Museum of American Prohibition Martin Luther King Jr Art 247 Museum 92 Folk Art Center 289, National Historic Site 308 National Civil War 15, 49-50, 15 Asheville Art Museum Naval Museum 160 289 Foxfire Museum Masters Tournament 155 & Heritage Center North Carolina aSHEville Museum 289 McClellanville 193 146 Maritime Museum Asheville Pinball McCullers, Carson 160 Frisco Native America 275 Museum 289 metal music 354 Museum 259 North Carolina Augusta Museum of George Gallery 173 Museum of Art 244 Milledgeville 154 History 154 Georgia Museum of North Carolina mobile phones 18 Bechtler Museum of Art 130 Museum of History 244 MOJA Arts Festival 178 Modern Art 236 Gibbes Museum of North Carolina Big House Art 173 Museum of Natural Museum 155 Graveyard of the Sciences 244 Map Pages 000 Billy Graham Atlantic Old Slave Mart Photo Pages 000 Library 236 Museum 258 Museum 170 379 Outer Banks Center for Mountain Dance & Folk 144 Old Exchange & Wildlife Education Festival 290 Vogel State Park 141 Provost Dungeon 259 55 Native Americans 303, 170-1 Parris Island Museum Savannah Stopover 100 345, 346, 358-9, see Owens-Thomas 208 Shaky Knees Music also individual tribes House 94 Pat Conroy Literary Festival 55 Newfound Gap 315 Palmer House 334-5 Center 205 Sweetwater 420 Newfound Gap Road Robert Mills House INDEX Patriot’s Point Naval Fest 54 315-25 & Gardens 213 & Maritime Museum Telfair Art Fair 100 North Carolina 254-81, Sibley Mill 154 M- 195 Myrtle Beach 209-11 282-312, 256-7, State Capitol

Penn Center 208 284-5 (Raleigh) 244  P Pin Point Heritage accommodations 254, Thomas Wolfe Museum 96 N 262, 282 Memorial 289 National Black Arts Qualla Arts & Crafts activities 300-1, 300 Tipton Place 327 Festival 55 Mutual 294 food 254, 282 Whalehead Club 255 Ralph Mark Gilbert national parks & nature reserves 22, 31, see highlights 256-7, 284-5 Civil Rights itineraries 294-5 Museum 94 also wildlife refuges & O reserves road trips 306-9, 306 Redux Contemporary Ocmulgee National Art Center 172 Amicalola Falls State travel seasons 254, 282 Monument 155 Park 13, 138-9, 13 Santa Elena History North Georgia 125-50, O’Connor, Flannery 154 Center 205 Black 126-7 Ocracoke 268-72, 269 State Park 146 Savannah African Art accommodations 125 Ocracoke Island 268-72 Museum 96 Caesars Head State climate 125 Ocracoke Pony Pen Park 218 SCAD Museum of food 125 268, 270 Art 92 Clyde Shepherd Nature highlights 126-7 offbeat attractions 22 Preserve 53 Ships of the Sea travel seasons 125 158 Congaree National Maritime Museum notable buildings 172, Oktoberfest 144 Park 12, 216-17, 12 93-4 see also plantations opening hours 368 Cumberland Island Shoeless Joe Jackson Aiken-Rhett House 172 National Seashore 115 Outer Banks 14, 255-72, Museum 220-1 Beech Grove , Devils Fork State Park 260-1 14 South Carolina State School 334 217-18 Museum 213 Biltmore Estate Great Smoky St Marys Submarine 287, 309 P Mountains National paddleboarding 139, Museum 115 Caldwell House 334 Park 9, 33, 313-38, 259, 289 Sulfur Studios 96 Calhoun Mansion 170 314, 320-1, 9, 33 parking 372 Telfair Academy 92 Carter Shields Hunting Island State parks & gardens The River Market Park 208 Cabin 327 Antiques & Lunch Airlie Gardens 279 Jockey’s Ridge State Douglass Theater 155 Box Museum 160 Atlanta Botanical Park 258 Duke Homestead 247 Tubman Museum 155 Garden 52 Linville Gorge Edmondston-Alston Battery & White Point Tybee Island Light Wilderness Area 294 House 170 Station & Museum 91 Garden 171 State Elijah Oliver Place 326 Webb Military Brookgreen Park 288, 308 Georgia State Museum 92 Gardens 209 Nantahala National Capitol 49 Centennial Olympic Woodbury Shoppe 163 Forest 311-12 Heyward House Park 13, 48, 13 World of Coca-Cola 48 Okefenokee Swamp Museum & Welcome Daffin Park 97 World of Energy 218 National Wildlife Center 193-4 Elizabethan Wright Brothers Refuge 158 Heyward-Washington Gardens 267 National Memorial Providence Canyon 158 House 170 Falls Park 255 Sapelo Island National John Oliver Place 325 on the Reedy 220 music 353-7, see also Estuarine Research Joseph Manigault Folly Beach County individual genres Reserve 124 House 172 Park 200 music festivals Table Rock Mercer-Williams Forsyth Park 92 Atlanta Jazz Festival 55 State Park 217 House 92 Hampton Park 172 Brevard Music Tallulah Gorge State Mingus Mill 315 Henry C Chambers Festival 311 Park 128-9, 147-8, 128 Nathaniel Russell Waterfront Park 205 Decatur BBQ, Blues & Tsali Recreation House 170 Bluegrass Festival 55 Area 312 380 parks & gardens Historic Latta shopping 109-11 accommodations 151 continued Plantation 233 sights 91-7 climate 151 Historic Corolla Historic Stagville tourist information 111 food 151 Park 258 Plantation 247 tours 97 highlights 152-3 Historic Fourth Ward Magnolia Plantation 190 travel seasons 89 travel seasons 151 Park 51 McLeod Plantation 200 travel to/from 111 Southeastern Wildlife INDEX INDEX Marshes of Glynn Middleton Place 190 travel within 111 Exposition 178 Overlook Park 113 plants 364 walking tours 94-5, Spanish moss 363 Mary Ross Waterfront 95 politics 340-1 Savannah Black Heritage spas 173, 270, 302 P- Park 113  ponies 270

T Festival 100 Spoleto USA 178  Massengale Park 119 pop music 354 scenic drives 201, see St Helena Island 207-9 Park 52 population 341 also road trips St Marys 114-19, Romare Bearden 115 postal services 368 Blue Ridge Parkway Park 236 St Simons Island 119-22, public holidays 368 294, 306-9, 306 Sarah P Duke 120 Foothills Parkway 337, Gardens 248 Sullivan’s Island 200-1 337 State Botanical Garden Summerville Sweet Tea R of Georgia 130 Festival 194 R&B music 353 Road 332 Park Sunbury Harbor 114 rafting 320-1 Roaring Fork Motor 52-3 surfing 259, 273, 279 Raleigh 244-6, 245 Nature Trail 324, 324 Waterfront Park 171 Swamp Rabbit Trail 226 Raleigh, Sir Walter 345 scenic flights Parris Island 207-9 Ramsey Cascades 329-30 Augusta 155 Pasaquan 163 rap music 354 Beaufort 205 T passports 369 REM 131 scenic railways Tallulah Gorge State Park Pat Conroy Literary 128-9, 147-8, 128 Revolutionary War 348 Blue Ridge Scenic Festival 206 road rules 372 Railway 139 Taste of Charlotte 237 55 road trips 259, see also Great Smoky Taylor, James 357 people 358-60 scenic drives Mountains telephone services 18, Pepsi 36 Blue Ridge Parkway Railroad 305 19, 368 Piedmont 362 294, 306-9, 306 Okefenokee Swamp 158 Tennessee 316-25 blues music 356 Greenville & Cherokee Scots people 359 The Choice 274 pimento cheese 37 Foothills 222-5, Scruggs, Earl 356 time 18, 368 Pisgah National Forest 222-3 Sea Islands tipping 18 305, 310 rock music 354 Hurricane 364 Toccoa 148-50 planning Senoia 162-5, 164 toilets 368-9 budgeting 19, 367, 368 S Sherman, General tourist information 369, calendar of events 23-5 sailing 267 William T 343 see also individual children, travel with salamanders 334 shrimp 35-6 locations 40-1 Sapelo Island 123-4 Shrimp & Grits tours 369, see also walking tours Georgia & the Savannah 11, 89-90, 91- Festival 122 Carolinas basics Asheville 289 111, 90, 98-9, 104-5, Tower 338 18-19 108, 11 skating 53, 172 Atlanta 53-4 Georgia & the accommodations 89, slavery 93, 343, 346, 348 Augusta 155 Carolinas regions 100-2 snakes 200 Beaufort (North 42-4 activities 97 soul music 353 Carolina) 275 itineraries 26-9, 26, 27, children, travel with 96 South Carolina 166-231, Beaufort (South 28, 29 Carolina) 205-6 climate 89 168-9 travel seasons 18, Blue Ridge 139 31, 35 courses 97 accommodations 166 breweries 173, 279 websites 19 drinking & nightlife bicycling 226, 226 107-9 Bryson City 305 plantations climate 166 emergencies 111 Charleston 176-7 Boone Hall driving 222-3 Columbia 213-14 Plantation 195 entertainment 109 food 166 Greenville 221 Drayton Hall 190 festivals & events 100 hiking 226-7 Jekyll Island 122 food 89, 102-7 itineraries 222-5, 222-3 highlights 90 travel seasons 166 Ocracoke Island 270 Map Pages 000 parking 110 South Georgia 151-65, Okefenokee Swamp 158 Photo Pages 000 safety 111 152-3 Outer Banks 262 381 Sapelo Island 124 Valle Crucis 306-7 Tallulah Gorge 128- wine & wineries 135 Savannah 97-100 visas 18, 369 9, 129 Currahee Vineyard St Helena Island 208 volunteering 97, 369 The Sinks 317 & Winery 149 St Simons Island 120 Toccoa Falls 148 Frogtown Cellars 135 Visitor Habersham Vineyards Wadmalaw Island 201 W Trail of Tears 303 Center 309 & Winery 144

walking, see hiking INDEX Watson, ‘Doc’ 356 Three Sisters 135 train travel 371, 372 Walking Dead, The 163 weather 18, 23-5, 31, 366 Wolf Mountain travel to/from Georgia walking tours & the Carolinas 19, 370 websites 19 Vineyards 135 -Atlanta 57, 68-9, 57, 69  T Weeping Time, The 93 Winston-Salem 242 travel within Georgia &  Z Charleston 184-5, 185 the Carolinas 19, 371 White, John 347 World Famous Blue Crab Savannah 94-5, 95 trekking, see hiking whitewater rafting 160, Festival 210 Senoia 163 Triangle, The 16, 232-53, 299, 301 Walterboro 208 234-5 wi-fi 253, 367-8 15, 94, 15 accommodations 232 water activities 31, 198, wildlife refuges & Wrecking Bar Strong 205, 207, 273, see Beer Fest 55 climate 232 reserves also canoeing, diving, Wright brothers 255 food 232 ACE Basin National kayaking, kitesurfing, Wright Brothers National highlights 234-5 paddleboarding, Wildlife Refuge 193 Memorial 255, 21 travel seasons 232 surfing, tubing, Alligator River 255 Tsali Recreation Area 301 whitewater rafting Carolina Raptor tubing 144, 289 water dispute 340 Y Center 233 yoga 259, 289 Twilight Criterium 130 water parks Summer Waves Water Center for Birds of Park 122 Prey 193 U Currituck Banks Z US National zoos universities & colleges Whitewater Center Maritime Forest Trail 259 Edisto Island College of 16, 237, 16 Serpentarium 200 Charleston 173 waterfalls Duke Lemur Center 247 Riverbanks Zoo & Duke University 247-8 Abrams Falls 330 Georgia Sea Turtle Center 122 Garden 212-13 University of Amicalola Falls 13, Okefenokee Swamp Georgia 130 138, 13 National Wildlife University of North Anna Ruby Falls 144 Carolina 252 Refuge 158 Helton Creek Falls 141 Upcountry 217-31 Pea Island National Linville Falls 283, Wildlife Refuge 258 294, 308 Wassaw National V Ramsey Cascades Wildlife Refuge 97 vacations 368 329-30 wildlife watching 334 Sliding Rock vaccinations 367 Wilmington 277-81, 278 Recreation Area 310 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 382

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Eating Parking Glacier Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Park/Forest Cafe Train station/Railway Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Kevin Raub Atlanta; North Georgia; Augusta & South Georgia Atlanta native Kevin Raub started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writ- ing and has written nearly 50 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad).

Regis St Louis Great Smoky Mountains National Park Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering desti- nations across six continents, from the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia. When not on the road he lives in New Orleans.

Greg Ward Coastal North Carolina; North Carolina Mountains Since whetting his appetite for travel by following the hippie trail to India, and later living in northern Spain, Greg Ward has written guides to destinations all over the world. As well as covering the USA from the Southwest to Hawaii, he has ranged on recent assignments from Corsica to the Cotswolds, and Japan to Corfu. See his website, www.gregward. info, for his favorite photos and memories. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Amy C Balfour Great Smoky Mountains National Park Amy practiced law in Virginia before moving to Los Angeles to try to break in as a screenwriter. After a stint as a writer’s assistant on Law & Order, she jumped into freelance writing, focusing on travel, food and the outdoors. She has hiked, biked and paddled across the United States and authored or coauthored numerous titles for Lonely Planet. She has also written for Backpacker, Every Day with Rachael Ray, Lonely Planet Magazine, Redbook, Vegetarian Times and Women’s Health.

Jade Bremner Augusta & South Georgia; Coastal North Carolina Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try, and it’s no coincidence many of her favorite places have some of the best waves in the world. Jade has edited travel magazines and sections for Time Out and Radio Times and has contributed to The Times, CNN and The Independent. She feels privileged to share tales from this wonderful planet we call home and is always looking for the next adventure.

Ashley Harrell Charleston & South Carolina After a brief stint selling day spa coupons door- to-door in South Florida, Ashley decided she’d rather be a writer. She went to journalism grad school, convinced a newspaper to hire her, and starting covering wildlife, crime and tourism, sometimes all in the same story. Fueling her zest for storytelling and the unknown, she traveled widely and moved often, from a tiny NYC apartment to a vast California ranch to a jungle cabin in Costa Rica, where she started writing for Lonely Planet.

MaSovaida Morgan Savannah & Coastal Georgia MaSovaida is a Lonely Planet writer and multi- media storyteller whose wanderlust has taken her to more than 35 countries across six continents. Prior to freelancing, she was Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for South America for four years and worked as an editor for newspapers and NGOs in the Middle East and United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @ MaSovaida.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 2nd edition – January 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78701 736 8 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’