Buying Guide

Franciacorta vineyards come practically to the doorstep of the Chiesa della Madonna di Santo Stefano in Rovato (Lombardy, Italy). Special A d vance Release Wines reviewed for the June 2010 issue, in home May 6

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS b u y i n g g u i d e . w i n e m a g . c o m La Valle 2003 Rosé Brut Millesi- Ca’ del Bosco 2004 Satèn (Francia- F R A N C I A C O RTA ROSÉ 88 mato (Franciacorta); $36. This lumi- 91 corta); $NA. H e r e ’s a sophisticated nous rosé sparkler offers a vibrant touch of exotic and spicy sparkling wine from the 2004 vintage Bellavista 2004 Gran Cuvée Brut spice upfront and follows through with dried fruit that boasts a clean and tonic delivery across the 92 Rosé (Franciacorta); $NA. Here’s a and white pepper. The perlage is smooth and palate. You could easily pair this silky wine with pale pink sparkler that would serve beautifully at c r e a m y. Pair this wine with shellfish or tuna fish or white meat thanks to the incredibly weddings and special outdoor occasions. The steak. Imported by L.A. Dick Imports. —M.L. smooth and soft impression it leaves. Imported wine is delicate and tonic, with pretty aromas of by Terlato Wines International. —M.L. small berries and yeasty bread. It is firm, refresh- Lantieri de Paratico NV Rosé Arc a- Contadi Castaldi 2001 Soul Satèn ing and extremely elegant on the close. Imported 88 dia (Franciacorta); $45. This Fran- C h a rdonnay (Franciacorta); $NA. by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. ciacorta rosé opens with an attractive pale pink 91 There’s a nice mineral vein that helps keep this color and offers immediate aromas of sourdough, wine focused. Beyond that, you’ll taste fresh fruit Contadi Castaldi 2005 Brut Rosé peach and subtle hints of wild berry. The wine is and some distance notes of roasted almond and 90 (Franciacorta); $39. This luminous smooth and creamy with some bitter fruit on the sourdough. The mouthfeel is clean and crisp and and bright rosé sparkler offers measured fruit close. Imported by Franciacorta Import. —M.L. aromas of berry, cranberry and pomegranate fol- the bubbles are soft and creamy. Imported by Sapphire Brands. —M.L. lowed by more sophisticated aromas of toasted Le Marchesina 2005 Brut Rosé nuts and almonds. The wine is clean and fresh 88 Millesimato (Franciacorta); $NA. La Valle 2004 Satèn Millesimato with piquant effervescence and a crisp close. Here’s an easygoing Franciacorta rosé sparkling Brut Chardonnay (Franciacorta); Imported by Sapphire Brands. —M.L. 91 wine with a bright pink color and spicy notes of $36. This wine is a result of careful winemaking white pepper and toasted almonds. The wine Montenisa NV Brut Rosé (Francia- in which both oak barrel and aging on the lees is would make a great a p e r i t i v o choice or could pair used to render a rounder, creamier feel in the 90 corta); $29. H e r e ’s a beautifully pale with white meat with buttery vegetables thanks mouth. The excellent 2004 vintage adds fresh and delicate rosé sparkler from Franciacorta that to the natural acidity. —M.L. notes of apricot and stone fruit to the overall offers compelling aromas of wild berry, cranberry complexity of the nose. Imported by L.A. Dick and cinnamon spice. There are citrus and pink B a r one Pizzini NV Brut Rosé Imports. —M.L. grapefruit tones at the back and the wine is silky (Franciacorta); $NA. Here’s a lightly smooth in the mouth. Imported by Ste. Michelle 87 colored pink rosé sparkler with subtle aromas of Quadra 2005 Satèn Chard o n n a y Wine Estates. —M.L. peach, rose petal, citrus and honeysuckle. It’s an 91 (Franciacorta); $47. Cheerful and bright, this luminous sparkler offers dried fruit Antica Fratta NV Essence Rosé elegant and refined wine that would work well with white water fish or delicate shellfish. aromas with yeast and baked bread tones as well. 89 (Franciacorta); $45. This is a genuine Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L. It has aged nicely over the past five years but and straightforward rosé sparkler with bright maintain the freshness and crispness you look for berry aromas followed by citrus, pink grapefruit Castelveder NV Brut Rosé (Franci- in an Italian sparkling wine. Imported by and passionfruit. The wine is tight and tonic in acorta); $17. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. the mouth and would pair nicely with smoked 87 This rosé sparkling wine boasts a pink, copperish color with firm and tonic salmon or tuna carpaccio. Imported by Tita Ital- Contadi Castaldi 2005 Brut Satèn bubbles. The aromas are subdued but do hint at ian Import & Export. —M.L. C h a rdonnay (Franciacorta); $39. pressed flowers, dried apricot and baked bread. 90 This Brut Satèn offers a creamy mouthfeel Majolini NV Altèra Brut Rosé There’s more intensity in the mouth, where this accented by cheerful tones of yellow fruit, wine offers a creamy, smooth consistency and a 89 (Franciacorta); $48. Here’s a brightly almond and dried apricot. There is crispness here spicy close. Imported by Trilussa Wine Company. pink-colored rosé sparkling wine with aromas of and the tonic bubbles help keep the palate clean —M.L. wild berry, toasted bread, dried fruit and ground for your next sip. Imported by Sapphire Brands. white peppercorn. There’s personality and inten- —M.L. sity here and the wine washes clean over the palate thanks to its bright effervescence. F R A N C I A C O RTA SAT E N Monte Rossa NV Satén Brut Imported by Franciacorta Import. —M.L. C h a rdonnay (Franciacorta); $38. Bellavista NV Gran Cuvée Satèn 90 H e r e ’s a delicate and feminine sparkling wine C h a rdo nnay (Franciacorta); $NA. Quadra NV Rosé (Franciacorta); 92 with well dosed aromas of yellow fruit, peach, 89 $43. H e r e ’s an Italian sparkling rosé There are impressive aromas here of stone and wildflower and drying mineral. The wine is fresh, with a peachy-pink color and a wide aromatic passion fruits, dried herbs and thick, nutty over- tonic and delivers a friendly, cheerful attitude offering that includes hints of clove, peach, tones at the back. The acidity is refreshing and that would work well at cocktail hour. Imported melon and toasted nut. The wine is smooth and cool but the wine also boasts solid, firm struc- by Wine Emporium. —M.L. slightly soft although those piquant bubbles give ture. Try this sparkler with smoked salmon it a sharper edge. Imported by Domaine Select canapés. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. Antica Fratta NV Satèn Chardon- Wine Estates. —M.L. —M.L. 89 nay (Franciacorta); $38. H e r e ’s a

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E light and easy Franciacorta Satèn (made with La Montina 2005 Millesimato Brut Contadi Castaldi 2005 Zero (Franci- 100% Chardonnay) with soft perlage and deli- 92 (Franciacorta); $52. This Millesimato 91 acorta); $39. Sparkling wines like this cate aromas of white flowers, stone fruit and can- sparkling blend of Pinot Nero and oak-aged “Dosaggio Zero” (made from 50-50 Chardonnay taloupe melon. Pair this wine with appetizers or Chardonnay delivers a generous and creamy and Pinot Nero) show the best of the territory they fried finger foods. Imported by Tita Italian mouthfeel followed by refined aromas of dried come from and promise to pair with a long list of Import & Export. —M.L. fruit and baked bread. This is a beautiful wine to foods. This example offers tones of citrus, stone serve with tempura appetizers. Imported by fruit and almond. The wine is never heavy or too Majolini 2004 Satèn Millesimato Costello Wines. —M.L. dense. Imported by Sapphire Brands. —M.L. 89 C h a rdonnay (Franciacorta); $41. Quadra 2004 Brut Quvée 15 (Fran- This Chardonnay-based Satèn sparkler delivers La Valle 2000 Zerum Riserva ciacorta); $51. From the 2004 vintage, intense aromas of yellow fruit, sourdough and 92 Dosaggio Zero Chardonnay (Fran- 91 this Cuvée sparkling wine (80-20 Chardonnay and roasted almond. The mouthfeel is plush and ciacorta); $95. You can taste the age here in Pinot Nero) offers sophisticated aromas of baked cushiony thanks to the foamy effervescence and the wine’s sophisticated and evolved aromas of bread, butterscotch and molasses. The color boasts those long-lasting fruit flavors. Imported by butterscotch, caramel, dried fruit and pressed a deep golden hue and the mouthfeel shows both Franciacorta Import. —M.L. flower petal. In fact, this wine comes from the far impressive density and staying power. Imported away 2000 vintage but has beautifully maintained by Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. Bersi Serlini NV Brut Sat én its fruit characteristics and overall crispness. 88 C h a rdonnay (Franciacorta); $38. Imported by L.A. Dick Imports. —M.L. Antica Fratta NV Brut Chard o n - H e r e ’s a straightforward Franciacorta sparkler nay (Franciacorta); $35. H a r m o n y Monte Rossa 2004 Cabochon Brut 90 with characteristic aromas of sourdough, almonds and balance are apparent in this elegant, sophis- and stone fruit. Bright effervescence brings up 92 (Franciacorta); $55. From the 2004 ticated sparkling wine from 100% Chardonnay. the rear and helps fuel the wine’s persistency and vintage, this wine’s age and sophistication shows The wine’s aromas include apricot, stone fruit, also its creamy density. Imported by Tita Italian in the form of butterscotch, caramel, toasted yellow rose and toasted nut. The perlage is tight Import & Export. —M.L. bread, apricot and dried fruit. There is piquant and persistent making for a smooth and creamy spice on the close with elements of clove and impression in the mouth. Imported by Tita Ital- Fratelli Berlucchi 2005 Brut Satén white pepper (the blend here is 70-30 Chardon- ian Import & Export. —M.L. 90 Millesimato (Franciacorta); $NA. nay and Pinot Nero). Imported by Wine Empo- This creamy blend of Chardonnay and Pinot rium. —M.L. Bellavista NV Cuvée Brut (Francia- Bianco offers a solid structure, firm and persis- 90 corta); $NA. This is a beautiful tent perlage, backed by fragrant aromas of yellow Bellavista 2004 Gran Cuvée Brut sparkling wine with well-integrated aromas of cit- fruit and pressed flowers. You could pair this 91 (Franciacorta); $NA. This Brut rus, stone fruit and toasted bread. The wine is wine with shellfish or smoked salmon. Imported expression from northern Italy boasts elegant luminous and soft with foamy perlage and ele- by Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. aromas of honeysuckle, stone fruit, spice and gant smoothness in the mouth. Its fruit flavors crushed almonds. The wine is clean and smooth endure many long minutes. Imported by Emp- with creamy effervescence that sits tight over the son (USA) Ltd. —M.L. F R A N C I A C O RTA palate. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. Contadi Castaldi NV Brut (Francia- Bellavista 2003 Gran Cuvée Pas Bellavista 2002 Vittorio More t t i 90 corta); $33. Tight and compact with pristine aromas of peach, citrus and sourdough, 92 Operé Extra Brut (Franciacorta); 91 Extra Brut (Franciacorta); $NA. Vi t- this vibrant sparkling Brut would pair with shell- $NA. H e r e ’s a complex and sophisticated torio Moretti Extra Brut is an elegant sparkler fish and oysters. There are linear mineral notes at sparkler with beautiful aromas of stone fruit, with aromas of apricot, stone fruit and yellow the back but the wine is fresh and tart in the freshly baked bread, pressed flowers and crushed c a n d y. The wine is creamy and tight in the mouth mouth. Imported by Sapphire Brands. —M.L. white pepper. The wine tastes rich and thick in with long-lasting flavors of butterscotch and the mouth and ends with piquant effervescence. toasted nuts. Pair it with elegant fish recipes like Fratelli Muratori NV Villa Crespia Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. buttered sole with garden potatoes. Imported by 90 N u m e ro Zero Chardonnay (Fran- Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. ciacorta); $40. This pretty sparkling wine Ca’ del Bosco 2002 Cuvée Anna- shows many of the characteristics associated with maria Clementi (Franciacorta); 92 Ca’ del Bosco 2004 Brut (Francia- northern Italy: the wine is crisp, fresh and the $NA. This vibrant and sophisticated Cuvée 91 corta); $NA. Ca’ del Bosco is one of aromas are brilliantly intact. You’ll get notes of shows aromas of sourdough, yellow fruit, subtle Italy’s best producers of sparkling wine and this roasted almond, peach, apricot and nutty honey. notes of exotic spice and dried apricot. The Brut expression show the deft hands of the staff Firm perlage keeps the palate refreshed. mouthfeel is dense and creamy and the wine winemakers. The wine is bright and light, but Imported by Vintelligence. —M.L. boasts impressive persistency on the finish. elegant and enduring at the same time. You’ll get Imported by Terlato Wines International. C e l- honeysuckle, stone fruit and yellow roses. Lantieri de Paratico 2005 Brut lar Selection. —M.L. Imported by Terlato Wines International. —M.L. 90 Millesimato (Franciacorta); $40.

W i n e M a g . c o m H e r e ’s a sophisticated wine from Franciacorta first and are followed by creamy peach, apricot freshly baked bread, apricot, honey and butter- near Brescia in Northern Italy. The wine region and yellow rose. The wine is tonic and fresh with scotch. The wine shows a saturated golden color straddles a lake and is well suited to Chardon- good density on the palate and long persistency and offers a dense mouthfeel accented by sharp n a y, Pinot Nero and other grapes used in on the close. Imported by Vintelligence. —M.L. effervescence. Imported by Tita Italian Import sparkling wines. Here you get aromas of sour- & Export. —M.L. dough, apricot and dried fruit. Imported by La Valle 2004 Naturalis Millesi- Franciacorta Import. —M.L. 89 mato Extra Brut (Franciacorta); Castelveder NV Brut Chardonnay $34. Elegant and clean with a generous array of 88 (Franciacorta); $20. H e r e ’s a sophisti- La Valle 2003 Millesimato Regium creamy or foamy sensation in the mouth, this is a cated and intense Franciacorta sparkler with a 90 Riserva Brut Chardonnay (Franci- classic and well-proportioned Italian sparkling luminous golden color and seductive aromas of acorta); $39. This Riserva Brut from the 2003 wine. You’ll get hints of peachy cream, with toasted bread, almonds, yellow fruit and pressed vintage shows well-evolved aromas of dried fruit, toasted nuts and baked bread. Imported by L.A. rose petal. The wine offers a thick, creamy honey and apricot with background notes of Dick Imports. —M.L. mouthfeel with some sour fruit on the close. sourdough and toasted nut. It feels firm, tonic Imported by Trilussa Wine Company . —M.L. and creamy in the mouth. Imported by L.A. Dick Lantieri de Paratico NV Brut Imports. —M.L. 89 (Franciacorta); $30. T h e r e ’s good aro- Fratelli Muratori NV Villa Crespia matic intensity here in the form of peach, sour- 88 Miolo Brut Chardonnay (Francia- Le Marchesine NV Brut Sparkling dough, yellow rose and honey-roasted almond. corta); $40. This is an enjoyable Italian Brut Blend (Franciacorta); $22. 90 T h i s The wine is tonic and firm in the mouth with sparkling wine made in the classic method with Franciacorta Brut opens with a vibrant, luminous good heft to its body and enough concentration Chardonnay that delivers aromas of chopped appearance that is reinforced by the impressive to stand up to fried finger food appetizers. herbs, mint, stone fruit, citrus and toasted quality and persistency of the perlage. Aromas Imported by Franciacorta Import. —M.L. almond. The wine boasts a luminous golden hue include dried fruit, apricot, honey, almond nut and offers a creamy, soft impression on the close. and butterscotch. Imported by Te r r a n o v a Monte Rossa NV Prima Cuvée Imported by Vintelligence. —M.L. Imports. —M.L. 89 Brut (Franciacorta); $28. Here’s an elegant Italian sparkler with toasty aromas of La Montina NA Brut (Francia- Montenisa NV Brut (Franciacorta); roasted nut, dried fruit and freshly baked bread. corta); $33. H e r e ’s a classic Brut $25. This easy but elegant sparkler The wine offers cleansing acidity and steely per- 88 90 sparkling blend (80-20 Chardonnay and Pinot offers candy-like aromas of butterscotch and lage that keeps the palate refreshed sip after sip. Bianco) that renders a soft, creamy feel thanks to caramel followed by apricot and dried fruit. The The blend here is Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco its fine perlage and dense body. This is an wine is firm and tonic in the mouth with thick with a small percentage of Pinot Nero. Imported approachable and genuine classic method consistency and a crisp, cleansing finish. by Wine Emporium. —M.L. sparkler that will work with all sorts of light Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. Tenuta Montedelma di Berard i Mediterranean finger foods. Imported by Costello Wines. —M.L. Quadra NV Brut (Franciacorta); 89 2006 Brut (Franciacorta); $35. T h i s $30. This Brut Franciacorta boasts a is a very attractive sparkling wine from Francia- 90 La Valle NV Primum Brut (Francia- bright, golden color with intense aromas of spice, corta, northern Italy, thanks to the sophistication corta); $30. white pepper, toasted nut, butterscotch and of its aromas. You’ll get buttery-yeasty notes 88 Here’s a nonvintage Brut caramel. Those fun spicy notes reappear on the backed by stone fruit and honeysuckle. It’s easy that spends 25 months aging on the lees to create palate and give this wine personality and dimen- drinking with bright acidity on the close. a creamy, soft and plush feel in the mouth. The sion. There’s a subtle touch of bitter almond on Imported by Michael R. Downey Selections. wine’s smooth texture is backed by fragrant aro- the close. Imported by Domaine Select Wi n e —M.L. mas of yellow fruit and roasted almonds. Estates. —M.L. Imported by L.A. Dick Imports. —M.L. B a r one Pizzini NV Brut Nature Bersi Serlini 2004 Brut Cuvée 88 (Franciacorta); $NA. Barone Pizzini Majolini NV Brut (Franciacorta); 89 Millesimato Chardonnay (Franci- (founded in 1870) presents a smooth and calcu- 88 $32. Notes of toast and yeast character- acorta); $40. This Chardonnay-based Francia- lated sparkling wine with a deep golden color and ize the bouquet of this elegant sparkling wine corta sparkling wine offers piquant aromas of aromas of yellow fruit, peach, Golden Delicious from northern Italy. This metodo classico bubbly citrus, white pepper and stone fruit. The mouth- apple and toasted almonds. This organic wine is is firm and tonic in the mouth with steely effer- feel is compact and firm and the quality of the drying and tight in the mouth and you’ll feel the vescence and lingering tones of dried fruit. fine and persistent perlage is both evident to the prickly effervescence on your tongue. Imported Imported by Franciacorta Import. —M.L. eye and in the mouth. Imported by Tita Italian by Vignaioli. —M.L. Import & Export. —M.L. Ronco Calino NV Brut (Francia- Bersi Serlini 2002 Riserva Vintage 88 corta); $35. This is a bright and lumi- Fratelli Muratori NV Villa Crespia 88 Brut Chardonnay (Franciacorta); nous Italian sparkler that would pair well with 89 Novalia Brut Chardonnay (Franci- $39. Luminosity and brilliance set this Chardon- white meat, roasted fish and vegetables. Aromas acorta); $40. Toasted or yeasty notes appear at nay-based sparkler apart as do its aromas of are clean and bright and the wine offers a fresh,

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E tonic feel in the mouth. Imported by Sun Wine drinks very well but it leaves enough body and cleansing. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports Imports. —M.L. persistency to fuel a long finish. Imported by Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. Palm Bay International. —M.L. B a ron e Pizzini NV Brut (Francia- 87 corta); $NA. This Brut sparkler opens M et h iu s 2 00 4 Br u t R is er v a BRUT PROSECCO with a pale straw color and offers aromas of stone 91 (Trento); $60. This is an intense and fruit, yellow rose and dried herbs. It yields a austere sparkling wine with persistent perlage Adami NV Bosco di Gica Brut sharp and steely sensation in the mouth followed and deep aromas of toast, roasted nut, honey, 88 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- by crisp acidity and refreshing fruit tones. stone fruit and butterscotch. You’ll also get a ecco Superiore); $18. Adami’s Bosco di Gica Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L. playful hint of chopped herbs that add buoyancy is among our favorite Brut Proseccos. The wine is to the wine’s thick, solid mouthfeel. Imported by delicate and feminine with drying mineral tones Ca’ del Bosco NV Cuvée Prestige Vias Imports. —M.L. followed by plush fruit and floral tones. Creamy 87 (Franciacorta); $NA. Packaged in a foam and good acidity move it smoothly forward transparent bottle, this wine boasts a surprisingly Rotari 2003 Flavio Riserva Brut over the palate. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery saturated shade of gold and delivers fragrant aro- 91 Talento Chardonnay (Trento); $30. Direct. —M.L. mas of caramel, butterscotch, dried fruit and sun- Flavio Riserva Talento is a beautiful expression of dried apricots. It makes for a fun bottle to serve northern Italy with fragrant aromas of yellow L e C ol t u re N V F a gh e r B r u t (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- with appetizers. Imported by Terlato Wi n e s fruit, toast, roasted nuts and lingering toast. 2003 88 ecco Superiore); $17. International. —M.L. was a hot and steamy year, but this sparkling wine Fagher opens with a offers the fresh aromas you should expect from a f r o s t y, foamy appearance and follows through Castelveder 2004 Brut Millesi- with delicate notes of wild flower, honeysuckle cool-climate wine zone. Imported by Prestige mato Chardonnay (Franciacorta); and acacia. This easy sparkling wine is bright and 86 Wine Imports Corp. —M.L. $31. The wine opens with candy-like notes of smooth in the mouth. Imported by T. Edward butterscotch and caramel and is backed with Ferrari NV Brut Chard o n n a y Wines Ltd. —M.L. thick saturation and extraction. It won’t appeal ( Trento); $24. F e r r a r i ’s base Brut (with to everyone—the wine is very dense and aus- 90 Montesel Renzo NV Riva dei Fiori a 2.5-million-bottle production) is a lovely tere—but it does offer remarkable intensity. Brut (Conegliano Va l d o b b i a d e n e sparkler with yeasty aromas of freshly baked 88 Imported by Trilussa Wine Company. —M.L. Prosecco Superiore); $20. This is a very ele- bread and loads of dried fruit, honey and apricot. gant Prosecco Brut with excellent intensity and The mouthfeel is soft and creamy and this clarity of aromas. You’ll get stone fruit, drying impression is reinforced by its foamy perlage. T R E N T O minerals and honeysuckle. Pair this wine with Imported by Palm Bay International. E d i t o r s ’ baked crab cakes or shrimp cocktail. Imported Choice. —M.L. Ferrari 2000 Giulio Ferrari Riserva by Tricana Imports. —M.L. de l F o nd at ore Cha rd o n n a y 93 Ferrari NV Rosé (Trento); $30. F e r- ( Trento); $90. An Italian classic, Riserva del A n d reola NV Vigneto Dirupo Brut rari’s rosé sparkler offers distinctive aro- Fondatore (a brut-style sparkler) offers a com- 90 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- mas of freshly baked bread and yeast followed by pelling nose that is as intense as it is complex. ecco Superiore); $27. Delicate mineral notes The aromas here span dried fruit and nuts to wild berries, stone fruit and citrus. The mouth- appear on the nose and are soon followed by sub- toast and melted butter. Its appearance is sharp feel is intense and generous and this wine boasts tle hints of passion fruit and peach. The delivery and luminous and the quality of effervescence is a particularly creamy, full and satisfying mouth- of the effervescence here is clean and tonic, and both tonic and persistent. Imported by Palm Bay feel. Imported by Palm Bay International. ultimately very satisfying. Imported by Vi t i s International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. —M.L. Imports. —M.L.

Ferrari 2004 Perlé Rosé Brut Rotari NV Rosé Talento (Tre n t o ) ; Bortolin NV Brut (Conegliano Va l- 92 (Trento); $60. From the distant 2004 89 $14. Elegant and tight, this pale pink 87 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore); vintage, this pink and peach-colored sparkler sparkling wine boasts a wide array of small fruit $22. Fratelli Bortolin is one of the historic offers yeasty tones of freshly baked bread and and floral aromas. This vibrant wine would pair estates of the Valdobbiadene (Prosecco) area and subtle notes of red berries and apricot. The wine well with fried calamari or shellfish thanks to its consistently produces a high quality sparkling is tonic and firm in the mouth with a creamy, delicate nature and bright acidity. Imported by wine. This Brut expression delivers subtle aro- foamy aftertaste. Beautiful and delicate. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. mas of white mineral, stone fruit and acacia Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. flower. Imported by Romano Brands. —M.L. Rotari NV Brut Talento (Tre n t o ) ; Ferrari 2004 Brut Perlé Chardon- 89 $14. Compact, solid and well built, this B o r t o l o m i o l N V P r i o r B r u t 91 nay (Trento); $32. F e r r a r i ’s Brut sparkling wine from northern Italy delivers a nice 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- Perlé (made with 100% Chardonnay) offers soft, aromatic package of stone fruit, toasted almond, ecco Superiore); $18. Here’s a Prosecco Brut foamy perlage that enhances a sense of softness Golden Delicious apple and yellow rose. The that stands tall in this category of sparkling wine and fullness on the palate. Crisp and tonic, it effervescence here is bright, persistent and thanks to the pristine and intense nature of its

W i n e M a g . c o m bouquet. You’ll get dusty mineral, fruit and flow- stone fruit and white flower. It’s tonic and crisp, M e r o t t o N V B a r e t a B r u t ers and the mouthfeel is exceedingly crisp and and those are two fine qualities that would work 86 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro s- clean. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Edi- well with cheesy or fried finger foods. Imported ecco Superiore); $19. H e r e ’s an elegant and tors’ Choice. —M.L. by Royalty Importers. —M.L. smooth Prosecco with well-integrated notes of mineral, fruit and flower that successfully play Carpenè Malvolti NV Cuvée Brut P e r l a g e N V C a n a h B r u t off each other. Pair this wine with bacon- 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- wrapped prunes. Imported by Enotria Wi n e ecco Superiore); $17. Here’s a pleasantly fra- ecco Superiore); $16. You’ll love the sparkling Import. —M.L. grant and buoyant Prosecco with pretty floral crispness and buoyant nature of this fresh and notes followed by drying mineral, stone fruit and vibrant Prosecco (made with organically farmed P e r l a g e N V A n i m a e B r u t talc powder. The wine is firm and tonic in the grapes). It would pair well with cubed Pecorino 86 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- mouth with cleansing acidity at the close. or Parmigiano cheese thanks to its firm acidity. ecco Superiore); $23. This organic Brut Pros- Imported by Siena Imports. —M.L. Imported by Chartrand Imports. —M.L. ecco puts emphasis on floral and herbal notes that emerge at the side of subtle notes of peach L’Antica Quercia NV Matiù Brut Scandolera NV Costa d’Oro Brut and citrus. The wine is tart and steely in the 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro s- mouth with a dry, slightly bitter close. Imported ecco Superiore); $20. Here’s a gorgeous Brut ecco Superiore); $20. From the Costa d’Oro by Chartrand Imports. —M.L. Prosecco with generous tones of stone fruit and vineyard, this luminous Prosecco offers mea- Sommariva NV Palazzo Rosso white mineral. The frothy foaming helps render a sured aromas of white mineral and fruit followed Brut (Conegliano Va l d o b b i a d e n e sensation of fullness and plumpness that you’ll by a light, crisp feel in the mouth. Try it with 86 really enjoy with cheese and artichoke dip. P rosecco Superiore); $20. This easy sparkling cured meats and cold cuts. Imported by RDL Imported by Fourcade & Hecht Wine Selections. wine opens with a luminous, crystalline appear- Wine. —M.L. —M.L. ance and segues to aromas of mineral, citrus and Silv ano F ollado r 2009 B rut white flowers. Pair this crisp wine with appetizer La To r dera NV Otreval Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- cheese and spinach dips. Imported by Kermit (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro s- 87 Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L. 87 ecco Superiore); $20. This is an elegant Pros- ecco Superiore); $18. This friendly Brut Pros- ecco Brut with firm mineral notes backed by ecco from La Tordera offers delicate notes of To ffoli NV Brut (Conegliano Va l- sharp acidity and cleansing effervescence. This white flowers and drying mineral although you will dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore); wine would pair perfectly with pimiento-studded 86 also detect fruity aromas of peach and citrus. It is $19. Try this refreshing Prosecco with crackers deviled eggs or fried chicken wings. Imported by soft and crisp in the mouth with an elegantly light and cheese; the crisp acidity and floral freshness Il Pioppo. —M.L. c o n s i s t e n c y. Imported by Tesori Wines. —M.L. will keep your palate clean, bite after bite. Aro- mas here include acacia, honeysuckle and peach S o r e l l e B r o n c a N V B r u t La To rde ra NV Brut (Conegliano blossom. Imported by Premium Brands. —M.L. (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- 87 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superi- 87 ecco Superiore); $NA. H e r e ’s a light and bril- o re); $12. Elegant floral notes come to the fore- Villa Sandi NV Il Fresco Brut (Pro s- liantly crystalline Prosecco Brut with subtle front of this well-priced sparkler followed by 86 ecco); $13. Il Fresco is perfect for white mineral and dried herbs. In keeping with aromas of mineral, white flowers and stone fruit. informal, fun occasions. The aromas are bright Prosecco tradition, the mouthfeel is light, crisp The easy bubbly—made by a sisters-only team— and tonic—focusing on spring flowers and stone and tonic. This light style of wine drinks well with closes with a playful touch of bitter almond. fruit—and the mouthfeel is enhanced by piquant or without food. Imported by Tesori Wines. B e s t Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L. bubbles and a slight sweet aftertaste. Imported Buy. —M.L. by Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. Caposaldo NV Brut (Pro s e c c o ) ; Le Manzane NV Brut (Conegliano 86 $15. Good aromatic intensity is offset Bonotto delle Tezze 2009 Brut 87 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superi- by cheerful effervescence and tonic crispness. 85 ( P rosecco); $15. This is a light and o re); $12. There is a particularly attractive min- This Prosecco’s bouquet offers sweet flowers and easygoing Brut expression of Prosecco with eral vein here that appears prominently on the peach blossom. The wine would pair well with pretty aromas of field flowers, citrus and a touch nose. This sparkling wine gains heft and struc- marinated seafood salad. Imported by Kobrand. of sweet peach. There are pleasant notes of ture in the mouth thanks to the plump fruit and —M.L. chopped herbs and drying minerals at the back. fragrant floral tones to follow. Imported by Vitis Imported by Myssura Trading. —M.L. Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. Maschio dei Cavalieri NV Brut 86 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- Val d’Oca NV Brut (Conegliano Masottina NV Brut (Conegliano ecco Superiore); $19. T h e r e ’s a cheerful floral 85 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superi- 87 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superi- bouquet here that helps set this Prosecco Brut o re); $19. This Prosecco Brut opens with a neu- ore); $24. Masottina’s Brut Prosecco is an easy apart. Pair it with marinated shrimp or seafood tral nose although there are some distant hints of and forthcoming sparkling wine with a light but salad and enjoy the natural acidity and sweet cit- peach and citrus to keep it interesting. The crisp mouthfeel and drying aromas of mineral, rus flavors. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. mouthfeel is light and lean with a crisp drop of

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E tangy lemon citrus at the end. Imported by Sol- Astoria 2009 Millesimato Cuvée acidity keeps the palate refreshed. Imported by stars Inc. —M.L. 88 Tenuta Val de Brun Extra Dry Vitis Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro s e c c o Bellenda 2008 San Fermo Brut S u p e r i o re); $22. Packaged in an impressive M a s o t t i n a N V E x t r a D r y 84 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- bottle—complete with a heavy medallion around 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- ecco Superiore); $19. San Fermo is a beauti- the neck—this vintage Extra Dry offers bright ecco Superiore); $24. Masottina offers widely fully luminous and bubbly wine that suffers from luminosity and sharp effervescence followed by a available Proseccos with an easy, informal a slight hint of matchstick that appears at the generous array of fruit and floral aromas. It’s a approach and a good eye to quality. This Extra front. Once you get past that, however, the wine proud ambassador of the entire Prosecco cate- Dry expression is not too intense but it does offer opens to reveal a crisp, mineral finish. Imported g o r y. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. E d i- cheerful, light tones of white flowers and stone tors’ Choice. —M.L. fruit. Imported by Royalty Importers. —M.L. by John Given Wines. —M.L.

S o r elle Bronca NV Extra Dry Mionetto NV Linea Mo Extra Dry Conte Loredan Gasparini NV Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- (Colli Asolani Prosecco); $12. The 88 87 83 ecco Superiore); $18. This is a very beautiful ecco Superiore); $NA. Mo’s Extra Dry Pros- wine opens with a hint of sulphur or matchstick Prosecco sparkler with elegant aromas of wild ecco tickles your tongue with its crisp acidity and that doesn’t seem to blow off completely. Once flowers, dried herbs, soft citrus, peach and pear. steely effervescence. There’s just the right level you get past that little glitch, this sparkling wine The wine is full and generous in the mouth with of sweetness here to prevent the wine from tast- does offer zesty crispness and refreshing light- a long, creamy finish. Imported by Polaner Selec- ing too firm or sharp. Its contrasting elements ness that kicks in at the rear. Imported by tions. —M.L. balance out very nicely. Imported by Mionetto Panebianco. —M.L. USA. —M.L. A n d r eola NV Vigneto Dirupo 87 Extra Dry (Conegliano Va l d o b b i - Perlage NV Col di Manza Extra EXTRA DRY PROSECCO adene Prosecco Superiore); $27. This vine- 87 Dry (Conegliano Va l d o b b i a d e n e yard-designate Prosecco represents a fuller, more P rosecco Superiore); $21. Fruit for this lumi- Bortolomiol 2009 Bandaro s s a generous style with bright tones of mature peach, nous Prosecco comes from an organically farmed 89 M i l l e s i m a t o E x t r a D r y melon and yellow rose. There’s a touch of tangy vineyard and creates the base for a pristine and (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro s e c c o spice on the close that is softened by the creamy lively sparkler. The bottle is closed with a cloth Superiore); $24. Mandrarossa is the flagship foam of the effervescence. Imported by Vi t i s and string (as Veneto tradition dictates) and wine of the all-women team at Bortolomiol. This Imports. —M.L. offers fragrant tones of fruit and flowers. Extra Dry style strikes a perfect balance between Imported by Chartrand Imports. —M.L. fruit and floral sweetness and cleansing acidity. B ianc a V ign a N V Ex tr a D r y Serve this beautiful wine at cocktail hour. 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- Ruggeri & C. NV Giall’Oro Extra Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. E d i t o r s ’ ecco Superiore); $15. This luminous sparkling 87 Dry (Conegliano Va l d o b b i a d e n e Choice. —M.L. wine delivers a balanced approach that sees P rosecco Superiore); $18. Ruggeri & C. is sweet fruit aromas reinforced by thick, creamy one of Prosecco’s most important ambassadors S o relle Bronca NV Particella 68 texture and a playful touch of sweetness. Pair this both in terms of quality and image. This “Gold 89 Extra Dry (Conegliano Va l d o b b i- wine with light, vegetable-based appetizers. Label” wine is delicate and light with a generous adene Prosecco Superiore); $27. Particella Imported by Indigenous Selections. —M.L. floral bouquet that is backed by fresh fruit and peach. Imported by Villa Italia. —M.L. 68 (a special vineyard parcel where the fruit for Il Follo 2009 Villa Luigia Extra Dry this sparkling wine is picked) offers elegant, clean Millesimato (Conegliano Valdob- Scandolera NV Vigneti del Fait tones of white flower, musk, peach and creamy 87 biadene Prosecco Superiore); $18. H e r e ’s a Extra Dry (Conegliano Va l d o b b i- citrus. The mouthfeel is light and lean and the 87 vintage Extra Dry Prosecco (most producers omit adene Prosecco Superiore); $20. This vine- wine is brilliant and luminous overall. Imported the vintage date, with the exception of wines yard-designate Extra Dry Prosecco offers a by Polaner Selections. —M.L. such as this, marked “Millesimato”), with many steady delivery of mineral notes that stand in nice layers of sweet aromas that resemble peachy juxtaposition to the wine’s natural sweetness and Adami NV Dei Casel Extra Dry fruit, white flowers and honey. Imported by Va n- fruitiness. Those drying notes of talc and flint (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- 88 guard Wines. —M.L. persist to the very end. Imported by RDL Wine. ecco Superiore); $18. This is an excellent —M.L. expression of Prosecco from one of our favorite L e M a n z a n e N V E x t r a D r y producers. Adami’s Extra Dry is a light and fem- 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- Toffoli NV Extra Dry (Conegliano inine wine with a beautiful embroidery of apple ecco Superiore); $12. This is a benchmark 87 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superi- and honeysuckle. There’s smooth foamy cream Prosecco Extra Dry with just enough natural o re); $19. Vincenzo To f f o l i ’s Exra Dry Prosecco in the mouth followed by sweetness and cleans- sweetness in its fiber to enforce its pretty aromas (a style that is slightly sweeter than Brut) delivers ing acidity. Imported by Dalla Terra Wi n e r y of peach, apricot and grapefruit. The flavors are thick, frothy effervescence with aromatic high- Direct. —M.L. light and delicate and a much-needed touch of lights that include passion fruit, mango and

W i n e M a g . c o m creamy lemon-lime. Imported by Premium soft, creamy finish. Imported by Enotria Wi n e creamy foaming. Imported by John Given Wi n e s . Brands. —M.L. Import. —M.L. —M.L.

Val d’Oca 2009 Millesimato Extra M i o n e t t o N V E x t r a D r y 87 Dry (Conegliano Va l d o b b i a d e n e 86 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- D RY PROSECCO P rosecco Superiore); $19. H e r e ’s a vintage ecco Superiore); $16. H e r e ’s a textbook Pros- Extra Dry Prosecco with a tonic, firm feel in the ecco that should be easy to find. This brilliant Le Colture NV Cartizze Dry (Va l- mouth and pretty aromas of honeysuckle, jas- sparkler offers a subdued bouquet, with bright 90 dobbiadene Superiore di Car- mine, lemon blossom and peach. The bubbling is accents of white rose, lime and peach blossom. tizze); $32. This is one of the nicest and most foamy and smooth and there’s just the right level Imported by Mionetto USA. —M.L. satisfying expressions of Prosecco Cartizze on the of acidity on the close. Imported by Solstars Inc. market today. Le Colture is a hard-working, qual- —M.L. Montesel Renzo NV Vigna del ity-minded estate that has produced an elegant 86 Paradiso Extra Dry (Conegliano interpretation with a particularly lush, peachy V i l l a S a n d i N V E x t r a D r y Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore); $20. and soft mouthfeel. Imported by T. Edward 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- Vigna del Paradiso, a vineyard-designate Extra Wines Ltd. —M.L. ecco Superiore); $16. Informal, bright and Dry Prosecco, offers subdued aromas of white loads of fun, Villa Sandi delivers a fresh-tasting flowers and stone fruit. There’s cooling acidity Astoria NV Cartizze Dry (Valdob- sparkling wine that would work well with light and delicious foaming in the mouth that makes 89 biadene Superiore di Cartizze); foods or no food at all. The aromas here include for a full and soft sensation overall. Imported by $30. A s t o r i a ’s Prosecco from the prestigious Car- spring flowers, white stone and peach. Imported Tricana Imports. —M.L. tizze vineyard delivers pristine notes of white by Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. mineral and stone fruit followed by a two-fold F o s s M a r a i N V E x t r a D r y sensation of sweetness and crispness in the Bellussi NV Extra Dry (Conegliano (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- 85 mouth. The wine’s texture is naturally rich and Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superi- ecco Superiore); $NA. This is a light and 86 foamy on the tongue. Imported by Prestige Wi n e o re); $13. B e l l u s s i ’s Extra Dry Prosecco is informal Prosecco with wildflower tones, citrus Group. —M.L. exceedingly smooth and easygoing thanks to the and lingering notes of white peach. The wine is impressive creaminess of its texture. There’s a light, luminous and effervescent and would pair Adami 2009 Vigneto Giardino Dry playful touch of sweetness here that is reinforced beautifully with fried calamari. Imported by 88 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- by fragrant aromas of lemon blossom and white VinUS Inc. —M.L. ecco Superiore); $21. A d a m i ’s delicious peach. Imported by Wine Worldwide. —M.L. Vigneto Giardino (a “Dry,” or slightly sweet style Natale Verga NV Poggio dei of Prosecco) offers plush notes of peach and Canella NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Vigneti Extra Dry (Prosecco); $13. 85 white flower followed by tangy acidity and more Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superi- Poggio dei Vigneti is a fresh and light Prosecco 86 sweet fruit flavors in the mouth. There is a ore); $NA. This Prosecco offers offbeat aromas with creamy, bubbly foam and aromas of peach, unique softness and plushness here that is very of candy and lemon soda, followed by creamy lemon candy and grapefruit. The citrus element attractive indeed. Imported by Dalla Terra Win- peach and a touch of crushed white pepper. The is forefront and suggests a pairing with tuna salad ery Direct. —M.L. persistent effervescence tastes steely and firm or fried calamari. Imported by Windmill Phoneix and there is a crisp touch of acidity on the close. Beverage. —M.L. A n d reola 2009 Millesimato Dry Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. S e r r e Spumanti NV Lovrè Extra 88 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- Carpenè Malvolti NV Cuvée Extra 85 Dry (Conegliano Va l d o b b i a d e n e ecco Superiore); $32. This Dry style Prosecco 86 Dry (Conegliano Va l d o b b i a d e n e Prosecco Superiore); $15. This is a subdued is characterized by bright, luminous transparency P rosecco Superiore); $18. This is a fresh and expression of Extra Dry Prosecco that offers less and small, persistent bubbles. This is a smooth, light Extra Dry style Prosecco with a luminous aromatic intensity than other sparkling wines in soft sparkling wine that offers generous notes of appearance and tonic bubbles. The aromas recall this category. It does, however, offer a firmly melon, Golden Delicious apple and honeysuckle. citrus, white flower and peach and the bubbly tonic and compact mouthfeel with a polished fin- Imported by Vitis Imports. —M.L. wine would taste great as an aperitivo. Imported ish that would pair well with cold cuts and sliced by Angelini Wine. —M.L. ham. Imported by Wine Emporium. —M.L. Bellussi NV Belcanto Cartizze (Va l - 88 dobbiadene Superiore di Car- M e r otto NV Colbelo Extra Dry Bellenda NV Miraval Extra Dry tizze); $20. Bellussi Belcanto is a Dry (or 86 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- 84 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- slightly sweet) style Prosecco wine from the Car- ecco Superiore); $19. This Extra Dry Pros- ecco Superiore); $19. T h e r e ’s a persistent tizze cru that offers harmony, elegance and char- ecco offers a luminous, bright style with a lively touch of burnt matchstick or sulphur that dis- acter. You’ll love the light touches of peach and bouquet that includes grass notes, spring flow- tracts from the overall harmony of this luminous white flower as well as the sparkler’s naturally ers, stone fruit and citrus. There’s a touch of Prosecco Extra Dry. Once you get past that, the creamy mouthfeel. Imported by Wine Wo r l d - white pepper on the close and the wine offers a mouthfeel is characterized by lush softness and wide. —M.L.

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E Bortolin NV Cartizze Dry (Va l d o b- Astoria 2009 Anniversario Dry in prosciutto). Imported by Folio Fine Wi n e 88 biadene Superiore di Cartizze); 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- Partners. —M.L. $30. H e r e ’s a Prosecco from the Cartizze cru ecco Superiore); $19. This anniversary edi- (offered by the excellent Bortolin estate) that tion from Astoria (executed in a “Dry,” or slightly Z a r d e t t o 2 0 0 9 Z e t a D r y boasts mineral notes and talc powder followed sweet style) offers soft notes of stone, passion and 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- by plush, creamy peach and yellow fruit. The lychee fruits. It also delivers interesting herbal ecco Superiore); $17. This is an extremely wine ends with a very feminine note of fresh tones that recall chopped basil or dried mint. popular and well-distributed Prosecco (you flowers. Imported by Romano Brands. —M.L. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. —M.L. should have no problem finding it anywhere in the U.S.) that lives up to all the promises of text- La Tordera NV Cartizze Dry (Val- L e C o l t u r e N V C r u n e r D r y book Prosecco. The wine is light and luminous 88 dobbiadene Superiore di Car- 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- and offers a refreshing blast of peach and white tizze); $21. This slightly sweet Cartizze ecco Superiore); $18. Cruner represents a fruit. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. sparkling wine offers a light, elegant bouquet that compact and complete expression of Prosecco. is redolent of stone fruit and white mineral. The This cheerful sparkler is creamy, foamy in the Bellussi NV Dry (Conegliano Val- w i n e ’s foamy effervescence creates a smooth and mouth and offers sweet tones of musk, peach 86 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore); creamy sensation in the mouth. Imported by blossom and cantaloupe melon. Imported by T. $13. There’s the slightest hint of matchstick at Tesori Wines. —M.L. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. the start that initially takes away from the integrity of the fruit. It blows off soon enough to M e r otto NV Cartizze Dry (Va l- Mionetto NV Linea Mo Cartizze reveal a soft, foamy sparker with bright notes of dobbiadene Superiore di Car- 88 Dry (Valdobbiadene Superiore di 87 sweet peach, citrus and fresh flowers. Imported tizze); $30. H e r e ’s a subdued, elegant and Cartizze); $34. M i o n e t t o ’s Mo Cartizze is a del- by Wine Worldwide. —M.L. feminine sparkler with a neutral, mineral-driven icate and feminine wine with light dashes of nose and a creamy, generous mouthfeel. Peachy peach, melon and Golden Delicious apple spread Canella NV Conegliano Valdobbi- fruit flavors appear in the mouth and leaving a throughout the bouquet. This is an extremely 86 adene Prosecco Superiore; $NA. lasting, sweet aftertaste. Imported by Enotria fresh and tasty wine that would pair with crab Canella always produces a light and refreshing Wine Import. —M.L. cakes. Imported by Mionetto USA. —M.L. Prosecco that makes a natural pairing partner to appetizers and finger foods. The nose is neutral, V a l d o N V C u v é e d i B o j Val d’Oca NV Uvaggio Storico but pristine and light mineral shadings are fol- (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- Dry (Conegliano Va l d o b b i a d e n e 87 lowed by zesty crispness. Imported by Empson 88 ecco Superiore); $15. Cuvée di Boj offers dis- P r osecco Superiore); $24. This Dry style (USA) Ltd. —M.L. tinctively herbal characteristics such as cut grass Prosecco offers a veritable explosion of aromas and dried basil leaf. The mouthfeel is smooth and and flavors. There are highly distinctive notes of Foss Marai 2008 Cartizze Dry (Va l- creamy and there’s a touch of sweetness here that creamy peach, apple, pear and white flower and dobbiadene Superiore di Car- adds to the overall softness of this cheerful 86 the playfully sweet tones in the mouth make this tizz e); $NA. This is an easygoing and sparkling wine. Imported by Pasternak Wi n e sparkler uniquely enjoyable. Imported by Sol- lightweight Prosecco from the Cartizze cru with a Imports. —M.L. stars Inc. —M.L. pale straw color and subdued aromas of peach, Villa Sandi NV Brut Claxa Bottle spring flower and white mineral. The mouthfeel is Valdo NV Cuvée del Fondatore 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- tonic and fresh and there’s a playful touch of (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- 88 ecco Superiore); $17. Packaged in a nifty sweetness at the end. Imported by VinUS Inc. ecco Superiore); $18. Va l d o ’s “founder’s ” double bottle that will keep the contents insu- —M.L. Cuvée is a benchmark Prosecco that opens with a lated and chilled, this bright Prosecco from Villa brilliant pale straw color and offers fragrant aro- Sandi would be perfect to serve in the early after- Foss Marai NV Conegliano Va l- mas of citrus, peach and lime. There’s a playful noon with friends. It’s luminous and crisp and 85 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore ; touch of sweetness that enhances its soft, silky would pair beautifully with puff pastry appetiz- $NA. This Prosecco sparkler would work won- mouthfeel. Imported by Pasternak Wi n e ers. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners. E d i- derfully with an antipasto platter of salumi, Imports. —M.L. tors’ Choice. —M.L. cheese and green olives. There’s an interesting and unique aroma here that recalls clove or cin- Adami NV Garbèl (Prosecco); $15. Villa Sandi NV Oris Cuvée Dry namon. Imported by VinUS Inc. —M.L. 87 Here’s an attractively informal Prosecco 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pros- from Adami with a sweet, creamy mouthfeel and ecco Superiore); $19. H e r e ’s a special La Marca NV Prosecco; $17. Here’s pristine aromas of peach, honey and apricot. It’s sparkling wine from Villa Sandi with intense 85 a fresh and fun Prosecco with a pale not as intense as the other wines released by this notes of peachy fruit, sweet apple and pear. This straw color and well integrated aromas of producer, but it makes an excellent and informal Dry style wine tastes extra sweet and would make chopped grass, wild flowers and peach. The wine appetizer wine nonetheless. Imported by Dalla an excellent pairing partner with any fruit-based is tonic and sharp in the mouth thanks to its per- Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. dish, whether sweet or salty (like prunes wrapped sistent perlage. Imported by E & J Gallo. —M.L.

W i n e M a g . c o m sparkler opens with a pale pink color and offers fumed wine, with delicious flavors of raisins, V E N E T O aromas of small berries, peach and citrus. The dried plums and sweet tannins. It is an opulent wine is subdued and elegant with a creamy wine, the acidity keeping a watchful eye over the Costaripa NV Brut Chard o n n a y mouthfeel and bright acidity. Imported by T. ripeness. It is ready to drink now. Imported by 88 (Lugana); $NA. H e r e ’s a very toasty Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. Total Wine & More. —R.V. and nutty expression of sparkling Chardonnay (with 5% Pinot Bianco) from Brescia in Northern Canella NV Rosé Brut (Ve n e t o ) ; Château Cambon la Pelouse 2007 Italy that offers background aromas of dried fruit 85 $NA. This light rosé sparkler from 91 L’Aura de Cambon (Margaux); and apricot. The wine is lively and smooth in the Canella boasts a pale peach color and offers aro- $40. While not strictly part of the Haut-Médoc mouth with zesty effervescence and enduring mas of wild berry and cranberry. There’s an initial Château Cambon la Pelouse, this small parcel in notes of almond and hazelnut on the close. touch of sulfur but the sparkler offers smooth, Margaux is under the same ownership and vinifi- Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. creamy foam in the mouth. Imported by Empson cation. The wine has weight, some solid fruit, (USA) Ltd. —M.L. with the wood adding polish but not dominating. Costaripa NV Brut Rosé (Lugana); A well-structured wine for medium-term aging. 87 $NA. This is an elegant and clean clas- Mionetto NV Sergio Rosé Extra Imported by Sam’s. —R.V. sic method sparkling rosé with a soft and slow 85 Dry (Veneto); $NA. M i o n e t t o ’s rosé approach. Aromas include spring flowers, per- sparkler has a sharper, more determined edge, Château Lamothe-Cissac 2005 fumed soap and mild berry tones. The mouth- evident in its intense aromas of forest berry, 91 Vieilles Vignes Réserve (Haut- feel is simple but very refreshing on the close. white almond and cranberry. The wine is fizzy Médoc); $30. In contrast to the château wine, Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. and tonic in the mouth and ends with bright acid- this reserve from Château Lamothe-Cissac is for ity. Imported by Mionetto USA. —M.L. aging. It is still firmly tannic, solid and dark with Foss Marai 2006 Brut Leniter in big ripe fruit and spice from the wood. It holds 87 I t i n e r e Capo 3 (Veneto); $NA. Moletto 2008 Rosa Rosato To c a i together well, very balanced. Give it five years. H e r e ’s a well-balanced and sophisticated Brut 84 Rosso (Veneto Orientale); $16. Imported by Total Wine & More. Cellar Selec- sparkler from northern Italy with a bright, lumi- Bright aromas of ripe strawberry and raspberry tion. —R.V. nous color followed by aromas of citrus, stone are followed by more delicate tones of peach and and passion fruits. The effervescence tastes spicy pink grapefruit. This is an easy, no-fuss rosé Château Marquis d’Alesme 2007 and sharp, but ultimately this wine leaves a sparkler with a lean finish and bright acidity. Try 91 Margaux; $NA. Now owned by c r e a m y, full sensation in the mouth. Imported by it with chicken quesadillas. Imported by Laird & Château Labégorce-Margaux, this classed growth VinUS Inc. —M.L. Company. —M.L. is beginning to come back to life. With this vin- tage, perhaps the wood flavor is too much, but Conte Collalto NV Rosé Extra Dry Moletto 2008 Raboso Frizzante the fruit has weight, dark spicy character and 86 ( Veneto); $NA. This rosé sparkler 83 ( Veneto Orientale); $18. R a b o s o solid tannins. Age for 5–6 years for the wood to boasts many attractive qualities. Its aromas are Frizzante (lightly sparkling) wine offers an intense soften. Imported by Metrowine Distribution. bright and fresh with notes of stone fruit and ruby color and aromas of spice, ripe cherry and Editors’ Choice. —R.V. small berries, and the mouthfeel is tonic and b l a c k b e r r y. This wine drinks like a red (including tight. The smooth perlage is persistent and clean. some mild tannins) with a touch of fizzy efferves- Château Meyney 2007 Saint- Imported by J&L Wine Imports. —M.L. cence and a sweet, fruity finale. Try this wine with 91 Estèphe; $NA. The dry, hard tannins salami, cold cuts and cubed parmigiano cheese. are very Saint-Estèphe, but the wine bears its Foss Marai NV Roös Brut Rosato Imported by Laird & Company. —M.L. weight well, giving good black plum and berry 86 ( Veneto); $NA. This bright pink-col- fruits and a dense texture. It has a solid, chunky ored rosé sparkler is packaged in a nifty ribbed feel to it, dark and firm. The finish is more fresh bottle that will surely impress your guests. This is BORDEAUX and juicy. —R.V. an easy and informal wine—perfect for entertain- ing with friends—with sweet aromas of berry fruit L E F T-BANK RED WINES Bernard Magrez 2005 Château la and raspberry. Imported by VinUS Inc. —M.L. 90 Tempérance (Médoc); $20. T h e B e r n a rd Magrez 2005 Château wood element is powerful here, giving a smooth, F o s s M a r a i N V C u v é e B r u t 92 Tour Blanche (Médoc); $20. A big, polished character to the otherwise tightly knit 86 ( V eneto); $NA. H e r e ’s a fresh solid wine, foursquare and chunky. The fruit fruit. Flavors of bitter coffee, spice and barbe- sparkling wine from northern Italy that embodies directs its plum fruit flavors to richness, some cued meats are there, with the juicy acidity and a all the fun qualities you seek in a daytime or pic- sweetness, with coffee and licorice as added dense texture. The wine needs another year to nic wine. You’ll get aromas of cut grass, wild flow- c o m p l e x i t y. There is a great tight wood element come together. Imported by Bernard Magrez ers and passionfruit. Imported by VinUS Inc. giving dryness. Imported by Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. —M.L. USA. —R.V. Château Anthonic 2007 Moulis- Le Colture NV Rosé Brut (Ve n e t o ) ; Château Andron Blanquet 2003 90 en-Médoc; $30. A serious, intense 86 $NA. This feminine, seductive rosé 91 Saint-Estèphe $25. A richly per- wine, a success for the vintage, with its dusty tan-

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E nins, solid blackberry fruits and a firm core. The Château Paloumey 2007 Haut- Château Ve rdignan 2007 Haut- wine is weighty, maybe just giving a green pepper 89 Médoc; $20. Good firm tannins, with 87 Médoc; $30. There are very firm, dry hint, but generally sitting foursquare in the ripe blackberry jam flavors, are followed by some tannins here, and they will likely always be with mouth. Imported by Wine Traditions. —R.V. spice from wood. This is a well-structured wine, the wine. That said, it has a certain weight of its elements in place. The dry edge is finally fruit, fresh currant skins and a final cranberry Château Clauzet 2006 Saint- dominant, and it probably needs 2–3 years aging. acidity. It really needs food. Imported by South- 90 Estèphe; $NA. Bursting with berry Imported by K&L Wine Merchants. E d i t o r s ’ ern Wine and Spirits. —R.V. fruits and the driest of tannins, this is a very Choice. —R.V. structured wine. Under that structure, there is Barton & Guestier 2006 Les ripe fruit, rich plum juice and lively acidity. Give M ä h l e r -Besse 2007 Château 85 Charmes de Magnol (Médoc); $NA. A densely texture wine that gives ripe the wine 2–3 years for its full, ripe potential to 89 d ’ A rche (Haut-Médoc); $25. A firm, black berry fruits, black currants, wood spice and show. Cellar Selection. —R.V. spicy wine, its fruit and tannins showing the char- a core of dry tannins. There is some weight here, acter of the vintage, but also with some weight. and the wine could age another year Imported by Château Coufran 2007 Haut- The tannins are dense rather than hard and the Diageo Chateau & Estates. —R.V. 90 Médoc; $30. A densely textured wine, berry fruits are juicy, but manage to keep high but one with the weight of fruit to sustain the dry acidity at bay. A success. Imported by Monsieur core. It is sold, chunky, pulling black berry fruits Barton & Guestier 2007 Médoc; Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. $NA. and plum skins into a good mélange of flavors. It 85 There is some good depth here, giving a wine with structure. There is good bal- will soften, but will always remain on the firm Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux side. Age for 3–4 years. Imported by Southern ance between black currant fruit and acidity, and 88 2007 Moulis-en-Médoc; $NA. A the texture is dusty rather than dry. Imported by Wine and Spirits. Cellar Selection. —R.V. finely textured wine, showing black currant jelly Diageo Chateau & Estates. —R.V. fruits, spice and a touch of green herbs. The wine Château Labegorce Zédé 2007 has a juicy character, becoming soft in the mouth, Château d’Esteau 2005 Haut- 90 Margaux; $NA. From 2009, Labé- the acidity becoming dominant. —R.V. Médoc; $17. The wine has some gorce-Zédé will no longer exist, being amalga- 85 weight, dominated by dry tannins and a dark mated with Château Labégorce-Margaux. So this Château de Côme 2006 Saint- edge of black currants. For a 2005, it is surpris- 2007 is one of the last vintages. The wine has Estèphe; $NA. A ripe, simple, plea- ingly light, but the elements of ripe fruit and bal- solid but lively black fruits, the tannins dark, firm 87 surable wine, with soft, dusty tannins and fruit ancing acidity are there, even if the tannins and and full of blackberry juice flavors with a touch of that is already mature. There is a juicy red berry wood still dominate. Imported by MROI LLC. cranberry dryness. It is definitely for aging. c h a r a c t e r, rounded out with some spicy wood. —R.V. Imported by Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. —R.V. Château les Ormes Sorbet 2007 Château Lamothe-Cissac 2005 Château la Tonnelle 2006 Haut- 86 Médoc; $NA. Tobacco and spice aro- 90 Haut-Médoc; $20. A smooth wine Médoc; $14. A firmly tannic wine that mas precede a palate that has some weight, the that softens well, but that still retains rich fruits 87 has a core of dryness surrounded by blackberry tannins quite dry and tight but in balance with and dense, dusty tannins. There is good power juice fruits. The acidity is tamed but present, fit- the red berry fruits. Spicy wood also shows, while here, from blackberry and red plums, the texture the final acidity is almost too fresh. —R.V. of velour. Drink now and over the next 3–4 years. ting well with the solid center. For possible aging over 2–3 years. Imported by Total Wine & More. Imported by Total Wine & More. —R.V. Château Deyrem Valentin 2007 —R.V. 85 Margaux; $NA. Quite a lean wine, Château Landat 2005 H aut- austerely tannic. The wood element is prominent Château Landat 2003 Vi e i l l e s 90 Médoc; $16. A dense wine, with and lends an extra dryness to the wine. It is, Vignes (Haut-Médoc); $22. A g i n g strong elements of its wood aging still prominent, 87 f i n a l l y, hard-edged, with the acidity somewhat this wine in 100% new wood has left it very dry, and smoothing out the tannins. It has power, a bitter. —R.V. dark texture and superripe almost jammy fruits. the fruit tight and black but oddly drained of The final has mint, spice and sweet plum juice. richness. There is sweetness along with prune fla- M ä h l e r-Besse 2007 Château Imported by Total Wine & More. E d i t o r s ’ vors. But the tannins may never soften enough. 85 P i c a rd (Saint-Estèphe); $25. H i g h l y Choice. —R.V. Imported by Total Wine & More. —R.V. juicy wine, packed with tannins as well as black currants and red berries. Green pepper, spice Château Poujeaux 2007 Moulis- Château Magnol 2007 Haut- and high acidity are strongly present. Imported 90 en-Médoc; $NA. That it was possible 87 Médoc; $NA. An attractively aromatic by Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. to soften the somewhat aggressive tannins of wine, the berry fruits shining in the glass. The 2007 is shown in this smooth, rich wine. It is cer- palate, though, is lean, with some green pepper Barton & Guestier 2007 Margaux; tainly a wine for early drinking, but it has ripe flavors as well as vivid acidity. It is well made, 84 $NA. Margaux was one of the least suc- berry fruit and fresh acidity, with well-judged but lightweight. Imported by Diageo Chateau & cessful of the great communes in 2007, and this tannins. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Estates. —R.V. wine reflects the austere character. It is relatively

W i n e M a g . c o m lightweight, with a dry core of tannins and lean not overdone. For aging 3–4 years. Imported by ture. There is a layer of vanilla, a warmly pol- red berry fruits. Imported by Diageo Chateau & MROI LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ished feel with glowing berries and sweet spice. Estates. —R.V. Delicious and certainly ready to drink. Imported Château le Prieuré 2006 Saint- by Total Wine & More. —R.V. Château d’Esteau 2006 Haut- 91 Emilion; $NA. There is a strong layer of 84 Médoc; $15. A thin wine, with tight new wood here, serving to give structure to the Château Cambon la Pelouse 2007 stalkiness and smoky, dry tannin flavors. It cer- rich berry fruits. Plum juice and black coffee 89 Haut-Médoc; $20. Cool, calm wine, tainly is fresh, the acidity very marked, black cur- round out the dryness, but the texture is still its fruit and tannins kept nicely in check. There is rant fruits bedded into the tannins. Imported by young, needing four years aging. Imported by Dia- a classic feel here, square and elegant. The berry MROI LLC. —R.V. geo Chateau & Estates. Cellar Selection. — R . V. fruits are bright, with a spurt of sweet and sour a c i d i t y. Age for 3–4 years. Imported by J.J. Buck- Château Fontis 2007 Médoc; $NA. Château Cantinot 2005 Premieres ley Fine Wines. —R.V. 84 There is plenty of black currant fruit 90 Côtes de Blaye; $35. A solid, ripe here, with dry tannins, but the mouthfeel is light, wine, with tannins to match the juicy black cur- Château Cantinot 2005 Premieres edging on dilute, with a green stalky character. rants. The structure is flexible, pushing comfort- 89 Côtes de Blaye; $29. A full-bodied, Ready to drink now. —R.V. ably at the fruit. There is a bright character here, densely fruity wine, its tannin a core for the ripe helped by the richness of the flavors. Imported berry fruits to wrap around. It has a juicy acidity Château d’Esteau 2004 Haut- by Roberts Fine Wines. —R.V. that gives sweetness to the solid structure of the 82 Médoc; $15. All tannin, this wine is toast and fruit. Imported by Roberts Fine Wi n e s . missing fruit, although the acidity hints at some Château Coutet 2006 Saint-Emil- —R.V. fading freshness. It is tough and dry, not offering 90 ion; $NA. With 30% Cabernet Franc much real pleasure. Imported by MROI LLC. in the blend, this shows the textured, structured Château Coutet 2004 Saint-Emil- — R . V. side of Saint-Emilion. The tannins are firm, but 89 ion; $NA. A charmer. A soft, perfumed come from the delicious fruit, particularly the wine, light but well balanced. The berry fruits R I G H T-BANK RED bright blackberry fruits that give a final lift. are just hinting at the start of maturity. The wine, Imported by Winebow. —R.V. though, has great freshness and delicious acidity, W I N E S with the tannins now rounding out. Imported by Château Grand Maison 2006 Winebow. —R.V. Château Coutet 2005 Saint-Emil- 90 Cuvée Spéciale (Côtes de Bourg); 92 ion; $NA. This is powerful, a fine $NA. A smooth wine, its tannins immersed in Château de Ferrand 2005 Saint- expression of the richness of 2005. Dense and sweet fruit, spice and black currant flavors. It is 89 Emilion; $35. Soft, dusty tannins bal- dusty tannins fit in the structure of ripe, black firm, likely to age for a few years, with a good ance a wine that is full of the ripest fruit. It has plums and currants. It has just the right amount dense structure and a great burst of final black power, but gentle power, with rounded corners of acidity to keep fresh among all this richness. fruit. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. and a texture that is dense, never hard. The fruits Imported by Wi n e b o w. Editors’ Choice. — R . V. —R.V. are ripe plums, perhaps lacking final freshness. Imported by Total Wine & More. —R.V. Château les Tonnelles 2005 Pres- Château Siaurac 2006 Lalande de 92 tige (Fronsac); $19. A rustic wine, 90 P o m e rol; $NA. Generously textured Château Grand Corbin 2006 with definite barnyard flavors. The fruit has some with rich fruit and soft tannins, this is already a 89 Saint-Emilion; $NA. Firm and rich smoky extract, but the tannins and old wood wine to be drunk. The structure is open, wine, with the black fruits melding well with the tastes intrude too much. Imported by MROI rounded, lit lightly by acidity, sustained by a base tannins. It has plenty of structure, but that is still LLC. —R.V. of dry tannins and finishing with light perfume. at a youthful stage. The final acidity adds fresh- Imported by Diageo Chateau & Estates. —R.V. ness and brings in berry fruits. —R.V. Château Vray Croix de Gay 2006 92 P o m e r ol; $NA. Fine ripe flavors, com- D & R Dubois 2005 Arthus (Côtes Château Haut-Guiraud 2006 bine elegance with rich, opulent Merlot fruits. 90 de Castillon); $NA. A generous wine, 89 Péché du Roy (Côtes de Bourg); There is a strong jelly element here in the sweet but one with good backbone and structure. The $18. With 14 months’ new wood aging, this wine fruit, but there are also tannins and a firm, dry black fruits are beginning to meld into the sweet is still all wood and toast. The wine does have texture. The final fruit is black, intense. Imported tannins and flavors of black cherry compote and weight, with the promise of blackberry fruits by Diageo Chateau & Estates. —R.V. spices. It is approaching maturity, but could age under the firm tannins. It is finely structured and another 2–3 years. Imported by Total Wine & should mature well. Imported by Wines of Château Bellerose Figeac 2006 More. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. France. —R.V. 91 P restige (Saint-Emilion); $47. A highly perfumed wine, with enticing aromas. The D & R Dubois 2000 P du Roy Château la Longua 2006 Fronsac; palate is tougher, unforgiving, the young struc- 90 (Saint-Emilion); $NA. A fine, totally 89 $19. A dense, elegant wine, the berry ture there to support fresh and concentrated sweet-fruited burst of Merlot that brings together fruits full of juice and fresh plums. The layer of fruit. There is a definite wood element, but it is fine structure with the beginnings of mature tex- tannins is firm, a clenched fist in the heart of the

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E softer, riper fruit flavors. There is final fruit gum Château Cantinot 2005 Haut D & R Dubois 2003 Arthémis acidity. Imported by Bordeaux, Etc Wine Trade. 87 Boutet du Château Cantinot (Pre- 86 (Côtes de Castillon); $NA. From the —R.V. m i e res Côtes de Blaye); $26. Big fruited weight of the bottle, Danielle and Richard wine, its wood element just a support for the ripe Dubois obviously think this wine is important. In Château de Ferrand 2006 Saint- black berry and cranberry flavors. The tannins fact, it is a rich, stewed-fruit-flavored wine, with 88 Emilion; $30. The alcohol certainly are a big element here, firm and very dry, but soft and dense tannins, very ready to drink, but gives the wine richness, but it manages to sus- with the fruit freshness, the wine is ready to suffering from the hot year. Imported by To t a l tain it well, with superripe black plum and dam- drink. Imported by Roberts Fine Wines. —R.V. Wine & More. —R.V. son flavors, dusty tannins and a powerful texture Château Cantinot 2006 Haut that rolls richly around the mouth. It leaves a Château Jean-Faure 2007 Saint- Boutet (Pre m i e r es Côtes de sweet and juicy aftertaste like old-style Rioja. 87 Emilion; $NA. A wine that initially 85 Blaye); $27. This is the second label of Château Imported by Total Wine & More. —R.V. seems smothered in wood. Only slowly do the Cantinot, from a separate 15-acre parcel. The blackberry fruits and fresh acidity come through, wine depends on berries and light plum skin fruit Château Grand Maison 2006 and even then the toast, and a green edge, are flavors. The tannins are light, bringing some Côtes de Bourg; $NA. Malbec is part dominant. Maybe a year’s extra aging will help. 88 attractive structure. Imported by Roberts Fine of the blend in this wine, Bourg being one of the Imported by North Berkeley Imports. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. few places left in Bordeaux where it is planted. It may help explain the firm tannins and dark color M ä h l e r-Besse 2007 Château la C h â t e a u To u r R o b e r t 2 0 0 6 C o u ronne (Saint-Emilion); $24. in a wine that has weight and a solid structure. 87 A 85 P o m e r ol; $51. Light, fresh, fruity Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. Edi- firm but fresh wine, the black currant fruit flavors wine, with a smoky complexity. The acidity and tors’ Choice. —R.V. right to the fore. Tannins are solid, dry, but fit red currants are more intense than the dry struc- well with the fruit profile. There is final fresh ture. The whole wine is tight, stalky, finishing Château Grand Maison 2007 acidity. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection with toughness. Imported by MROI LLC. —R.V. 88 Cuvée Spéciale (Côtes de Bourg); Ltd. —R.V. $NA. A big and dense wine, the tannins sup- D & R Dubois 2006 Clos de la porting solid black fruits. While there is plenty of Xavier Flouret 2006 Château 85 Vieille Eglise (Côtes de Castillon); wood here, the wine has balance, with the weight 87 Haut-Meneau La Vi c t o i r e (Pre- $NA. A direct wine, its acidity very linear to go of fruit and its intensity important elements. Age mieres Côtes de Blaye); $20. Very smooth with the dark tannins. The fruit is juicy, very for 2–3 years. Imported by Pierre Courdurie and soft, this is an interpretation of Bordeaux that black currant, with a stalky character. This is clas- Selections. —R.V. left out the tannins. But the pleasure in this easy, sic food-friendly Bordeaux, with a bright but dry ripe wine is there, the blackberry fruit rich and finish. Imported by Total Wine & More. —R.V. Château Tour Grand Colombier right up front. Imported by Cognac One, LLC. 88 2005 Lalande de Pomerol; $28. A —R.V. M ä h l e r -Besse 2007 Château solid, chunky wine, with a structure that is full of 85 Cheval Noir Le Fer (Saint-Emilion); corners and edges. The tannins are in a dusty, Yvon Mau 2007 Château de Mus- $50. A top cuvée from Château Cheval Noir, chewy style, balancing with the fresh black fig 87 set (Lalande de Pomerol); $NA. with wood dominating the plum juice fruits. It is and sweet plum juice flavors. Rich and concen- While it has the lightness of the vintage, the wine tough, the tannins giving considerable dryness, while the fruit behind seems lightweight. trated, the wine needs to age. Imported by enjoys its freshness with bright acidity and red Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. MROI LLC. —R.V. fruits. The tannins are well in balance, but not — R . V. dominant. Imported by Victoire Imports. —R.V. D & R Dubois 2004 Château Orisse Château Grand Maison 2007 du Casse (Saint-Emilion); $NA. A B e r n a r d Magrez 2005 Château 88 Côtes de Bourg; $NA. The wood is wine that is fully ready to drink, with soft tannins, P é r enne (Pre m i e r es Côtes de 84 86 too dominant here, giving a wine that is mainly black cherry flavors and light acidity. The texture Blaye); $20. The weight of the structure is spice and toast. The fruit itself is light, showing is still firm, but it is comfortably subsumed into almost overpowering for the fresh blackberry the acidity of the vintage, with a final flourish of the fruit. Imported by Total Wine & More. —R.V. fruits in the wine. Its presence is big, powerful, dry tannins. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selec- with bitter fruits and black figs, finishing with a tions. —R.V. D & R Dubois 2006 Château Berti- final punch of richness. Imported by Bernard 88 nat Lartigue (Saint-Emilion); $NA. Magrez USA. —R.V. Château Haut Bertinerie 2004 Pre- A finely balanced wine, its tannins kept well in 84 m i e res Côtes de Blaye; $24. A wine place but there are tight fruits and a texture that Château Grand Corbin 2007 that still shows some youthful tannins, but is shows an edge of acidity and green peppers. The 86 Saint-Emilion; $NA. A wine that is maturing well, its freshness subsumed into the style is maybe old-fashioned—no concession to highly extracted, the tannins with a hard edge. It red plum and jelly flavors. It is ready to drink ripeness or extraction here—and it works well. is not helped by excessive wood. The ensemble is n o w, but should be decanted. Imported by Pierre Imported by Total Wine & More. —R.V. aggressive and rather tough. —R.V. Courdurie Selections. —R.V.

W i n e M a g . c o m M ä h l e r-Besse 2007 Cheval Noir currants are prominent, but so is a rich character Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. 84 (Saint-Emilion); $20. A burnt-toast, that is developing well, aided by the sweet wood —R.V. spicy aroma is followed by fresh black currant that balances the wine’s initial dryness. Imported flavors. This is a light wine, but it is balanced, by Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. Château de Fontenille 2006 Bor- with the wood fitting well into the fruit. Drink 86 deaux; $12. A well-made, fresh wine, n o w. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection Château Bois Redon 2006 Bor- wearing its black currant and berry fruit easily, to Ltd. —R.V. 88 deaux Supérieur; $NA. A soft, give good depth of flavor. The structure is muted, smooth, wood- and red-plum-tinted wine, with a but the whole wine is well balanced, and ready to slight but attractive volatility. The wine shows drink. Imported by Stacole Fine Wines. —R.V. OTHER RED BORDEAUX acidity, a layer of dry tannins and an easy, juicy finish. Drink now. Imported by Saranty Imports. Château le Bonnat 2006 Graves; Château la Garde 2005 Pessac- —R.V. 86 $NA. A solid, firm wine that shows 92 Léognan; $NA. Dark in color, this some rich black currants, but mainly goes for a wine has sold tannins over rich mint and black Château de Cornemps 2005 La more austere character. The tannins give a dry, plum fruits. The structure is firm, but the whole 88 Cloche de Cornemps (Bord e a u x tight edge, but the fruit and acidity do cut wine has enough richness to sustain the dry core Supérieur); $NA. There is definite richness in through at the end. Imported by Baron Francois and to offer 4–5 years aging. Imported by Dour- this wine, which benefits from the ripe style of Ltd. —R.V. the USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 2005. You find sweet plums, soft tannins and deli- cious juiciness. The wine remains fruit-domi- Yvon Mau 2008 Château des Château Haut Selve 2006 Réserve nated, and could age for 2–3 years. Imported by 86 P rom s Cuvée Bellevue (Graves); 91 (Graves); $32. Big, rich, dusty tannins Total Wine & More. —R.V. $NA. A fresh wine, its tannins attenuated ini- and black plum fruits are built on a firm layer of t i a l l y, although they do then broaden into red wood. There is a fresh mint character as well, Château Haut Bertinerie 2007 berry and plum flavors. The tannins are soft and giving the wine a polished and spicy feel. Wi t h 88 Côtes de Bordeaux; $24. Spicy, soft the wine is ready to drink. Imported by Victoire the wood and the acidity, this needs aging: 3–4 wine, full of sweet juicy fruit, the wood element Imports. —R.V. years and more. Imported by Baron Francois more of feeling of roundness than taste. The Ltd. —R.V. wine has fresh blackberry fruits and a gentle core M ä h l e r-Besse 2007 Château Biré of tobacco and tannin. Imported by Pierre Cour- 85 (Bordeaux Supérieur); $12. From a Château Magneau 2005 Graves; durie Selections. —R.V. vineyard planted on the island of Margaux in the 90 $NA. The tannins are the thing here, a Gironde estuary, this soft wine has stalky fruits, strong, dry element that cuts through the fine, M ä h l e r-Besse 2007 Blavia (Pre- very berry, burnished with wood and given a elegant fruits. The whole wine has a purity of 88 m i e res Côtes de Bordeaux); $16. A spicy character. It is ready to drink now, the acid- fruit and a straight line of flavors with a mineral selection of the best cuvées creates a wine that ity and juicy finale dominant. Imported by Mon- tightness to the structure. Age for 2–3 years has some weight and density, although the sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. more. Imported by Wine Traditions. C e l l a r extreme juiciness gives fresh black currant fla- Selection. —R.V. vors. The tannins are present, but soft. Imported Barton & Guestier 2007 Bord e a u x ; by Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. 84 $NA. The wood element is what gives B e r n a r d Magrez 2005 Château this wine some weight. The fruit by itself is on 89 Haut Mouleyre (Bordeaux); $14. Château Grand Jean 2006 Réserve the edge of green, saved by the dollop of Merlot Based in the heart of the Entre-deux-Mers, this 87 ( B o rdeaux Supérieur); $13. A r o m a s softness and the well-judged wood. A good effort vineyard has ancient monastic origins. The 2005 of new wood follow through with rich toast, bal- for 2007. Imported by Diageo Chateau & is a well-balanced wine, structured with Cabernet anced with black currant fruits. The wine is fresh, Estates. —R.V. and rounded with Merlot. The fruit is rich, not the acidity a strong presence along with a layer of complex, but very food friendly. Imported by dried fruit flavors and tannins. Imported by Château de Cornemps 2006 Bor- Bernard Magrez USA. Best Buy. —R.V. North American Beverage Group. —R.V. 84 deaux Supérieur; $NA. A lean, aus- tere wine that relies on juicy fruits and dry B e r n a r d Magrez 2006 Château Chateau Rollan de By 2008 Bor- tannins. It feels light in texture, the acidity too 89 Bois Chantant (Bordeaux); $NA. A 87 deaux; $NA. Smooth and rounded, prominent. Will it soften? Maybe, but it will complex, concentrated wine, powered by choco- with soft red fruits freshened with acidity. It has a always be lean. Imported by Total Wine & More. late, dark plum skins and spice. The fruit is rich, depth of perfumed flavor that comes right through —R.V. superripe, but well balanced, leaving tight tan- the wine, finishing bright and light. —R.V. nins and acidity. Worth aging another year. Château Grand Jean 2008 Bor- Imported by Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. M ä h l e r -Besse 2007 Arte (Bor- 84 deaux; $12. Fresh, perfumed wine, 87 deaux); $16. Attractive, simple Bor- with cherry flavors. The acidity is pure, crisp with Château Haut Selve 2006 Graves; deaux, its acidity kept nicely in check by bright only light tannins and a green stalky final taste. 89 $NA. A solidly tannic wine, the dusty black berry fruits, some sweet tannins and a well- Imported by North American Beverage Group. tannins suspended in the chunky fruits. Black judged amount of wood. For drinking now. —R.V.

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E Vincent Saincrit 2005 Bord e a u x ; orange zest. Impressive and certainly for aging. 84 $10. The ludicrously heavy bottle must SWEET WHITE WINES —R.V. have cost more than the pleasant, fruity wine inside. The wood aging has had the effect of Château Climens 2007 Barsac; Château Coutet 2007 Barsac; rounding the red berry fruits, while the juicy 98 $NA. A big, rich wine, showing its gor- 93 $NA. The aromas are intensely sweet, acidity points up freshness. Imported by A. geous fruit easily. But with a core of dryness, the full of orange marmalade and honey. The palate Hardy USA. —R.V. ripest apricots touched by caramel, it should age goes more for spice, with oranges and brown well over many years. There is intense power sugar allied to fresh fruits, apricots and lychees. Yvon Mau 2006 Premius (Bor- here, still hidden by the youth of the wine, but The final flavors are delicious and enticing. —R.V. 84 deaux); $10. A ripe, juicy well-made, with final concentration. Cellar Selection. branded Bordeaux, its tannins tight but just right — R . V. Château de Rayne Vigneau 2007 for the meaty chocolate flavors, spiced with S a u t e r nes; $NA. A wine that is bright wood. The acidity gives sweetness as much as C h â t e a u S u d u i r a u t 2 0 0 7 93 with the freshest orange and lemon flavors, fol- freshness. Imported by Freixenet USA. —R.V. 97 S a u t e r nes; $NA. Powered by dry botrytis, this is a wine with immense potential. It lowed by liquid honey and fine apricots. It is per- haps light, but it is certainly delicious. —R.V. Yvon Mau 2009 Yvecourt Rouge has weight, complexity and richness, all under ( B o rdeaux); $NA. the cloak of botrytis. To leaven the power, there 83 A soft wine, with Château Doisy Védrines 2007 is acidity, but this is certainly for aging. Cellar attractive plum juice flavors topped by spice and Barsac; $NA. Selection. —R.V. 92 Intensely rich in charac- lengthened by ripe tannins. A tomato juice flavor t e r, touched lightly by new wood, the acidity spoils the finish. Imported by Victoire Imports. Château Guiraud 2007 Sautern e s ; crispening the ripe orange and sweet peach skin —R.V. texture. This is a gorgeous, opulent wine. E d i- 96 $NA. A gold-colored wine. The palate tors’ Choice. —R.V. has intense freshness as well as ripe apricot and Château Tour de Calens 2005 orange zest flavors. The acidity cuts through the Graves; $29. The problem with this C hâte au D ois y-D aëne 2007 80 intense richness, leaving a wine that needs time wine is the wood. There is too much of it, and the Barsac; $NA. The color is light on this to fully integrate, and then many more years to 92 toasting is too high, giving a burnt character to wine, which is really only just beginning to show mature. —R.V. the wine. For a 2005, this should be better inte- richness. The botrytis dominates, with a fat, oily texture needing many years of aging. There is a grated, and is likely to just dry out. Imported by Château Clos Haut Peyraguey World Vintage LLC. —R.V. lovely ripe orange marmalade flavor on the finish. 2007 Sauternes; $NA. A beautifully 95 Cellar Selection. —R.V. ripe wine, layered with the richest fruit, the acid- BORDEAUX ROSÉ ity offering a bright moment within the richness. Château Rabaud Promis 2007 Botrytis is there, like a hard core for the pillow of S a u t e r nes; $NA. There are big flavors ripe apricots, lychees, spice and fine freshness. 92 Château de Lagarde 2008 L de of botrytis here, giving a wine with power and Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 85 L a g a rde Rosé (Bordeaux Rosé); concentration. The texture is muscular, tightness $14. surrounding botrytis and layering with pineapple An attractive, crisp, fruity wine from Château la Tour Blanche 2007 acidity and apricots. —R.V. organic grapes, with red currant and raspberry 94 S a u t e r nes; $NA. Light gold color, but flavors, lifted well by the fresh acidity. The finish a wine with depth and balance. There is lovely Barton & Guestier 2005 Thomas is delicious, bright and clean. Imported by Nat- acidity here, a wine that offers fresh fruits, apri- Barton Réserve (Sauternes); $NA. ural Merchants LLC. —R.V. 90 cot juice and deep layers of botrytis. —R.V. A full, liquorous wine, with ripe mango and apri- cot flavors set against a backdrop of honey, dry Château Lassègue 2008 Pink Cri- Château Lafaurie Peyraguey 2007 botrytis and dense texture. The wine is now ready quet (Bordeaux Rosé); $NA. Made 84 94 Sauternes; $NA. Packed with botry- and maturing well. Drink over the next year. at the Jackson Family Estates-owned Château tis, this is a wine whose sweetness is suppressed Imported by Diageo Chateau & Estates. —R.V. Lassègue in Saint-Emilion, this is a soft, lightly by richness. Flavors of bitter oranges and white sweet rosé. It has fresh strawberry and caramel figs go with the intense core of botrytis, followed C h â t e a u d ’ A r c h e 2 0 0 7 flavors, but lacks acidity. Screwcap. Imported by by a touch of bright acidity. This is a wine whose 90 S a u t e r nes\); $NA. A tight wine, its Sovereign Wine Imports. —R.V. journey is just beginning. Cellar Selection. sweet fruit rolling around between the texture of —R.V. pear skins. There is freshness here, the acidity Yvon Mau 2009 Yvecourt Rosé and the dry botrytis taking away from any huge 83 (Bordeaux Rosé); $NA. Light, fresh, Château Sigalas Rabaud 2007 sweetness. —R.V. with a sweet caramel-centered character, very 94 S a u t e r nes; $NA. A beautifully ripe typical of Bordeaux rosé. There is a soft, squashy wine, layering all the dense botrytis of the vintage C h â t e a u d e M a l l e 2 0 0 7 aftertaste. Screwcap. Imported by Vi c t o i r e with freshest acidity. It has weight, the texture of 90 Sauternes; $NA. Very balanced wine, Imports. —R.V. grainy honey, ripe yellow fruits, mango and with the acidity well integrated into the ripe

W i n e M a g . c o m botrytis and firm texture. The wine has a poise to and makes it richer. Imported by Dourthe USA. it, a lightness of touch, but will also age well. D RY WHITE WINES —R.V. —R.V. B e r n a rd Magrez 2006 Château Yvon Mau 2009 Château Cous- Château Lamothe Guignard 2007 90 Haut Mouleyre (Bordeaux Blanc); 86 taut la Grangeotte Sauvignon $15. A fascinating—and unusual—blend of Blanc (Bordeaux Blanc); $NA. Very herba- 90 S a u t e r nes; $NA. Deep gold in color, a Sauvignon Gris and Sémillon, this wine is full of ceous, with some attractive weight. The wine is big, generous and opulent wine. It has rich yel- ripe, seriously opulent fruit, with peach and grapefruit juice right down the line, tight and cit- low and tropical fruits and layers of botrytis, mango dominant. It is fleshed out with intense ric textured. Drink this summer. Imported by emphasizing power. Luckily, the acidity is also perfumes, rich fruit skins and kiwi fruit fresh- Victoire Imports. —R.V. there to freshen the finish. —R.V. ness. Imported by Bernard Magrez USA. B e s t Buy. —R.V. Yvon Mau 2009 Château Ducla Oriel 2005 Ondine (Sautern e s ) ; 86 ( E n t r e-Deux-Mers); $NA. A rich 90 $NA. Made at the Sauternes classed Château Haut Bertinerie 2008 style, already creamy in texture, showing the ripe growth Château Guiraud, this is part of a world- 89 Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Bor- fruit of 2009. It has a soft texture, with balancing deaux); $24. The wood gives a spicy aroma, grapefruit but more with sweeter fruits. wide range of wines under the Oriel brand. As it and the palate has an attractive touch of ginger to Imported by Victoire Imports. —R.V. matures, its marmalade flavors are mellowing, go with the pink grapefruit and green plum fla- giving a rich nut and honey wine, with bursts of vors. A soft wine that has toast as well as ripe Château Bertinerie 2008 Sauvi- acidity and the potential for another few years’ a c i d i t y. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. 85 gnon Blanc (Côtes de Bordeaux); aging. Imported by Oriel Wines. —R.V. —R.V. $18. Defiantly herbaceous, a wine that has the freshest crisp fruits, packed with grapefruit and Château de Myrat 2007 Barsac; Château Haut Selve 2008 Graves; lime, edged with pear juice, lively and bright. 89 $NA. Fresh gold color, with definite 89 $NA. Smooth and soft, with an attrac- Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V. honeyed aromas of botrytis followed by sweet tive perfumed character layered with wood toast, honey and spice flavors and the freshest acidity, pear and peach flavors and lively acidity. This is Château de Rouquette 2008 Bor- finely balanced, still young, worth aging another deaux Blanc; $17. Very fresh grassy but stopping surprisingly short. —R.V. 85 year. Imported by Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. aromas mark this Sauvignon Blanc-dominated wine. It has the crispest of lemon zest, grapefruit Château Filhot 2007 Sautern e s ; Château de Fontenille 2009 and apricot, the whole wine tight, mineral and 89 $NA. The fruit is really ripe, botrytised, 88 E n t re-D eux-Mers; $12. This is white fruity. Imported by Elixirs du Monde. —R.V. quite tight in character, the layers of tangerine Bordeaux at its freshest, bursting with herba- and orange juice wedged into a dry core. This ceous flavors, very grassy. It does have some Château Grand Jean 2008 Bor- will need many years. —R.V. weight of green plum flesh and a creamy tex- 85 deaux Blanc; $12. A light, crisp, ture. Delicious. Imported by Stacole Fine grassy wine, with the freshest grapefruit acidity B a r t o n & G u e s t i e r 2 0 0 7 Wines. Best Buy. — R . V. and a texture of tight apple skins. Imported by 88 Sauternes; $NA. Vintage 2007 was a North American Beverage Group. —R.V. big success in Sauternes, and this wine gives a Château du Pin Franc 2008 Bor- deaux Blanc; $12. A ripe, gentle Barton & Guestier 2008 Bord e a u x good indication of the richness both of the yellow 87 wine, with some sweet fruits touched by honey. Blanc; $NA. Soft, open fruit flavors are peach and apricot fruits and the drier botrytis. 84 The texture has apple skins as well as creaminess. of pear and peach, shot through with acidity. The Ample, full and finely balanced. Imported by The finale is soft, full in the mouth. Imported by texture is dense, but there is also an attractive Diageo Chateau & Estates. —R.V. Serge Dore Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. limpidity to the wine. Imported by Diageo Chateau & Estates. —R.V. Château Nairac 2007 Barsac; $NA. Château le Bonnat 2008 Graves; 88 This is more on the fresh side, with a 87 $NA. The dominance of Sémillon in the Château de Lagarde 2008 L de bright citric component adding a crisp character blend gives a ripe, creamy character, hinting at 83 L a g a rde (Bordeaux Blanc); $14. to the botrytis richness. The texture is tight, honey as well as yellow fruits. The herbaceous Soft pear and apricot flavors over acidity make apple and pear skin cutting through the sweet- element is there but is tamed by the richness. this initially attractive. Then an awkward toffee Imported by Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. apple element creeps in, and leaves a wine that is ness. —R.V. mushy and soft. Imported by Natural Merchants Dourthe 2008 La Grande Cuvée LLC. —R.V. Château Romer du Hayot 2007 (Bordeaux Blanc); $NA. Highly aro- S a u t e r nes; $NA. 87 86 A wine that seems matic wine, with upfront herbaceous fruits that Yvon Mau 2008 Yvecourt Sauvi- dilute, the texture light, while the fruit is reluc- could give New Zealand Sauvignons a run for 83 gnon (Bordeaux Blanc); $NA. tant to show much. There is a hollow center here, their money. What gives it an extra element is a Some of the freshness is already going and the leaving a wine that is simply pleasant. —R.V. creamy applesauce flavor that smooths the wine wine is morphing into pear and peach juice fla-

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E vors. There is still an apple skin texture to give Domaine Marcel Deiss 2007 nose. The concentrated palate shows lively lemon some crispness. Imported by Victoire Imports. 82 Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $40. notes buoyed by lip-smacking acidity. A perfect —R.V. Hard to do, but almost all the fruit has been dri- partner for light bistro fare. Drink now. Imported ven off from this most fruity of all grapes. What’s by Wilson Daniels Ltd. left is concentrated and unctuous but excessively ALSACE mineral, giving an impression of unbalance. René Muré 2007 Tradition Pinot Imported by Vintus LLC. 86 Blanc (Alsace); $21. Subtle but per- G E W Ü R Z T R A M I N E R fumed opening, with spiced pear, macadamia and Jean-Baptiste Adam 2008 Réserve white flower scents. The crisp palate coasts to a Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 82 Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $22. shortish but flavorful finish of mixed nuts and 92 Wintzheim Gewürztraminer Oxidative, with unusual aromas but a more typi- lemon. Well done. Try with fish in a lemon-butter (Alsace); $48. Profound enough for serious cal profile in the mouth, with rose, lanolin and sauce. Drink now. Imported by Robert Kacher contemplation but with enough broad fruit lychee flavor. Off-dry but balanced. Drink up. Imports. appeal to serve to a crowd. There’s loads of Imported by Winebow. upfront Asian spice and lychee, afloat on a luxu- Domaines Schlumberger 2007 Les rious, sensually textured palate. Notes of gera- 85 P r i n c e s A b b é s P i n o t B l a n c nium and macadamia nuts keep the taste buds PINOT BLANC (Alsace); $15. The nose displays some funky entertained and carry over to the lingering finish. notes alongside pleasant mineral scents while the The noticeable residual sugar suggests pairing Domaine Marcel Deiss 2006 elegant palate is crisp and lemony. The short-to- with something slightly sweet, like Tilapia in a 88 Bergheim Pinot Blanc (Alsace); medium finish ends on a grapefruit tone. Te r r i f i c mango salsa. Drink now to 2011. Imported by $35. Deiss has brought quite a bit of flavor choice for shellfish. Drink now. Imported by The Sorting Table. intensity to the often recalcitrant Pinot Blanc; Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Indian spices, browned apple, clove and petro- Helfrich 2008 Gewürztraminer leum are the themes here. Concentration is evi- D o p f f & Irion 2007 Pinot Blanc 86 (Alsace); $12. Pleasant, with broad dent on the crisp palate, which finishes on a 85 (Alsace); $12. This Pinot Blanc opens appeal, this wine opens with Poire William, min- vanilla note. Imported by Vintus LLC. with a decadent, expressive nose of orange blos- eral and rose notes, followed by Asian spice on som, spice and honeysuckle then turns a bit more the tongue. There’s noticeable sweetness here Domaine Marcel Deiss 2007 austere in the mouth. Crisp and dry, with a short- but a spicy character keeps it from being cloying. 87 Bergheim Pinot Blanc (Alsace); to-medium finish. Drink now. Imported by Drey- Serve with Pad Thai. Drink now. Imported by $22. Opening notes of Swiss cheese are more fus, Ashby & Co. Underdog Wine Merchants. appealing than they sound. There are apple undertones, mineral notes and a dry, medium fin- Hugel 2006 Cuvée Les Amours Lucien Albrecht 2008 Réserve ish that’s shot through with notes of wet stones. 85 Pinot Blanc (Alsace); $17. A few 86 Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $21. Try with light fish dishes. Drink now or keep sev- years of age have added some interest to this Noticeably off-dry, this wine opens with spice eral years. Imported by Vintus LLC. Pinot Blanc. Toasted nuts and butter are the and rose aromas shot through with mineral notes, dominant notes now, though some zesty lemon followed by a faintly watery palate that nonethe- Josmeyer 2006 Mise du Printemps flavor emerges on the finish. Crisp, light and sub- less comes through with some lovely spiced pear 87 Pinot Blanc (Alsace); $22. D e n s e tle; a good choice for a contemplative moment. f l a v o r. Unctuous, medium finish. Serve as an and flavorful, with decadent tones of honey, hon- Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. apéritif. Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. eysuckle, baked apples and pear tart. The palate is concentrated and fairly dry, though a bit lack- Hugel 2007 Cuvée Les Amours M a r c Kreydenweiss 2007 Les ing in fruit. Try with roast pork. Drink now. 85 Pinot Blanc (Alsace); $18. The aro- 86 Charmes Kritt Gewürztraminer Imported by Terlato Wines International. mas here have matured into vanilla, toasted nuts (Alsace); $39. True to the house style, fruit is and butter, while the palate still shows a crisp secondary here, hiding behind overt notes of wax M a r c Kreydenweiss 2007 La lime note. Zesty, short-to-medium finish. Tr y and mineral. Palate lacks complexity but has a 87 Fontaine Aux Enfants Pinot Blanc with simple fish preparations. Drink now. pleasant lemon tinge. There’s a final acid kick on (Alsace); $30. Moroccan spice, coriander seeds Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. the hay-honey finish. Drink up. Imported by Wi l- and wet stones make for an alluring approach, son Daniels Ltd. while the palate shows good concentration, firm acidity and winds up on a lingering walnut note. PINOT GRIS P i e r r e S pa r r 2 00 8 G e w ür z - Great choice for grilled fish. Drink now. 85 traminer (Alsace); $18. A more Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 restrained style of Gewürztraminer, with petro- 92 H e r r enweg De Tu rckheim Pinot leum and mineral notes set against a subtle back- M a r c Kreydenweiss 2007 Les Gris (Alsace); $50. An astonishing nose of ground of delicate flowers. Only faintly off-dry 86 C h a r m e s K r i t t P i n o t B l a n c peach and bramble with refreshing accents of with medium acidity. Try with Vietnamese food. (Alsace); $24. Made in an oxidative fashion, lemon zest. The intense, off-dry palate of pista- Drink up. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. with lanolin, earth and hay scents dominating the chio, pecan and apricot lead to a long, minerally

W i n e M a g . c o m finish. Carries its hefty 15.5% alcohol well. Best winds up on a nutmeg note. Drink now. rus fruit and although the palate starts out with a now to 2016. Imported by The Sorting Table. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. note of soft sweet fruit it finishes dry. Drink now. Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 Domaines Schlumberger 2007 USA. 89 C a l c a i re Pinot Gris (Alsace); $40. 87 Spiegel Grand Cru Pinot Gris This powerful white has an intriguing nose of (Alsace); $28. Opens with an attractive musk P i e r r e Sparr 2008 Pinot Gris toasted almonds, spiced orange and almond note, followed by guava, quince and pear. The 85 (Alsace); $18. This is an easy-to-like cookies while the mouth is an explosion of palate shows moderate intensity and good fresh- crowd pleaser, with clean scents of mixed nuts intense nut, cinnamon and honey, set against a ness. Winds up with a graham cracker note on and a zesty, crisp, medium-bodied palate. Fin- noticeable level of residual sugar. A good wine to the finish. This lazy, decadent wine is a good ishes earthy and dry. Drink now. Imported by savor on its own. Drink over the next three to choice for mild blue cheese. Drink now or over W.J. Deutsch & Sons. four years. Imported by The Sorting Table. the next few years. Imported by Maisons Mar- ques & Domaines USA. D o p f f & Irion 2007 Pinot Gris Lucien Albrecht 2007 Cuvée Cecile 83 (Alsace); $19. Opens with slightly 89 Pinot Gris (Alsace); $30. Just off-dry, Jean-Baptiste Adam 2007 Letzen- funky cheese rind notes, though there’s a nice with intense flower and stone fruit aromas and a 87 berg Pinot Gris (Alsace); $55. mineral undertone and some apple character. silky, decadent texture. The finish of white cher- Unusually subdued nose of pear and mineral Crisp and dry with mouthwatering acidity, this is ries, fig and lemon goes on and on. Drink now leads to a nuanced palate of pear, papaya and a good choice for fish in a cream sauce. Drink for its lovely, youthful fruit or stash it for a few kiwi that’s noticeably sweet. There could be more now. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. years for more complexity. Imported by Paster- flavor and persistence though a high level of con- nak Wine Imports. centration is evident. A good complement to spicy Asian food. Drink now. Imported by R I E S L I N G P i e r r e Sparr 2008 Grand Cru Winebow. 89 Mambourg Pinot Gris (Alsace); P i e r re Sparr 2005 Vendages Ta r- $35. Gorgeously nuanced nose, with almond, Jean-Baptiste Adam 2008 Reserve 89 dives Riesling (Alsace); $40. A r o - marzipan, melon, lime and fresia up front, set 87 Pinot Gris (Alsace); $20. A more matic and zingy, this off-dry Riesling is easy to like, against a palate of Brazil nut and cinnamon toast. restrained style, with pear and citrus fruit in the with aromas of spiced pear, mandarin orange and Soft and lush, the long finish picks up a nutmeg lead roles, backed up by subtle cinnamon and grapefruit peel that lead into a full-bodied and fla- accent. Noticeable sweetness suggests this wine honey on the palate. Crisp and medium-bodied vorful palate. There’s lemon and toffee in the will work well as an apéritif. Drink now for its with a medium, lemon-accented finish. Try with mouth that fade to a delicious honey and caramel freshness or cellar a few years for more complex- Alsatian tarte flambée. Drink now. Imported by aftertaste. At five years old, this wine has reached ity. Imported by MROI LLC. Winebow. its peak and should be enjoyed the next year. Best served on its own. Imported by MROI LLC. Domaine Marcel Deiss 2006 Pinot Josmeyer 2006 Le Fro m e n t e a u 88 Gris (Alsace); $30. This wine opens 86 Pinot Gris (Alsace); $35. M a r k e d l y René Muré 2005 Vorbourg Grand with an explosion of Granny Smith apples under- complex aromas of bruised apple, pear, peach 89 Cru Riesling (Alsace); $47. S t a t e l y lined by firm minerality. The honeyed palate and carnation set up expectations that the mouth and developed, with caramel aromas that fold in shows nice grapefruit and lemon character. c a n ’t quite live up to; it’s a bit thin though dry to a luxurious texture punctuated with notes of Medium, citrus finish. Best now, but will gain and nicely balanced with a finish of fall leaves apple, pear and persimmon. Long, flavorful fin- complexity over three to four years. Imported by and green plums. Try with cream pasta dishes. ish. Drink now. Imported by Robert Kacher Vintus LLC. Drink now. Imported by Terlato Wines Interna- Imports. tional. Lucien Albrecht 2008 Cuvée René Muré 2007 Clos St. Landelin 88 Romanus Pinot Gris (Alsace); $20. P i e r re Sparr 2008 Reserve Pinot 89 Riesling (Alsace); $NA. A lovely Ripe and opulent, offering up a lovely cornucopia 86 Gris (Alsace); $21. After a few sul- expression of place, with exuberant aromas of of rose, cardamon, nutmeg and faded flower phur notes blow off, pretty vanilla and carnation h o n e y, beeswax, lanolin and gardenias, giving way tones that slide into a luxuriously textured palate aromas come forward, accented by delicate Chi- to carnations and rosewater in the mouth. The with spice and quince accents. Try with an onion nese spices. There’s more subtlety in the mouth palate is dry and almost chalky in its mineral tart. Best now to 2011. Imported by Pasternak and a rich texture, with melon top notes and a expression. Finishes on a vanilla note. Drink now Wine Imports. d r y, medium finish. Drink now. Imported by W. J . or hold several years for even more complexity. Deutsch & Sons. Imported by Robert Kacher Imports. M a r c Kreydenweiss 2007 Les 88 Alouettes Lerchenberg Pinot Gris Domaines Schlumberger 2007 Les D o p f f & Irion 2007 Schoenen- (Alsace); $35. The mineral expression has the 85 Princes Abbés Pinot Gris (Alsace); 88 b o u r g G r a n d C r u R i e s l i n g upper hand in this dry, full-bodied white, with $19. Almost light-bodied and with a distinct (Alsace); $45. A timid wine, with cheese, tones of apple and nuts playing second fiddle to freshness, the style here is part Pinot Gris, part strawberry and lime scents followed by a crisp cinnamon and wet stone flavors. The long finish Pinot Grigio. There’s plenty of nuttiness and cit- palate of nectarines, petroleum and white flow-

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E ers. The medium, peachy finish is slightly off-dry. Josmeyer 2006 Le Dragon Ries- a spunky little wine, with gardenia and apple Drink now or hold several years for more aro- 85 ling (Alsace); $45. A bit reticent, scents and a slightly funky background note. It’s matic development. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby offering apple, lily and spring flowers for an crisp and medium-bodied, with a short-to- & Co. opening act, followed by citrus flavors on the medium finish redolent of fresh lemons. Try with palate. The short-to-medium finish has a pleasant light fish dishes. Drink up. Imported by The Helfrich 2006 Steinklotz Grand lemon edge. Drink up. Imported by Te r l a t o Sorting Table. 88 Cru Riesling (Alsace); $24. A very Wines International. pretty wine, with intense aromatics of crushed M a rc Kreydenweiss 2007 L’ A m e flowers and passionfruit. The palate is flavorful, P i e r re Sparr 2008 Reserve Riesling 85 de la Te r re Val D’Eleon (Alsace); crisp and refreshing, winding up with a tangy, cit- 85 (Alsace); $19. Light and airy, with a $38. An intriguing wine, a blend of Riesling and rus-accented finish. Serve with light fish prepa- reticent nose of green apple, melon and faded Pinot Gris, showing developed aromas of char rations. Imported by Underdog Wine Merchants. flowers undercut by a slight funkiness. Quite dry, and spice. There’s precious little fruit here, this is a good partner for raw clams. Drink up. though a few apple notes inform the medium- M a r c Kreydenweiss 2007 Aux Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. bodied palate. Hay and lanolin flavors on the fin- 88 Vignes Clos Rebberg Riesling ish dissipate a bit too quickly. Imported by (Alsace); $51. Unusually oxidative in style but P i e r r e S pa r r 2 0 0 8 R i e s l i n g Wilson Daniels Ltd. concentrated, with a luxurious texture and flavors 83 (Alsace); $14. Crisp, off-dry and of apple skin and baked apples. Medium, crisp fin- straightforward, this is an unexceptional Alsace C a v e d e R i b e a u v i l l é 2 0 0 7 ish. Drink now. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. white. There are some nice tones of petroleum, 84 A nd an t e P res t i g e G ew ü rz - but they are undercut by a distracting scent of traminer-Muscat (Alsace); $10. Simple but Cave de Ribeauvillé 2005 Kirc h- cooking grease. Unlikely to improve with age. with a straightforward grapey charm, this slightly berg de Ribeauville Grand Cru Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. 87 spritzy blend has medium acidity and a short, Grande Reserve Riesling (Alsace); $33. flowery finish. Good for poolside sipping. Quite youthful, this is a sprightly and charming Imported by Apollo Fine Spirits. wine, evincing aromas of white flowers and BLENDED WHITES peaches. The crisp palate has lemon-lime notes and a chalky edge. Medium, citrusy finish. Drink Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 GERMANY now or hold a few years for more complexity. 88 ZIND (Alsace); $36. A unique wine Imported by Apollo Fine Spirits. for Alsace, this blend of Chardonnay and its kiss- D RY RIESLINGS ing cousin, Pinot Auxerrois, is fashioned in a Bur- Josmeyer 2006 Le Kottabe Ries- gundy style. It’s stylish and richly textured with Johannishof 2008 Rüedesheim ling (Alsace); $32. A wine that dis- vanilla and luscious tropical fruit up front and 87 Berg Rottland Erstes Gewächs dains the typical fruit profile, aromas here turn notes of apple and wet stones at the back. Fla- 90 Riesling (Rheingau); $65. Aromatic, succu- to vanilla, browned apple and savory Asian dishes. vorful but short finish. Try with salmon. Drink lent and invigorating, this Riesling is firing on all The palate has good weight and firm acidity but is now or hold a year or two for more complexity. cylinders. The palate is on the dry side with pow- a bit lacking in appealing flavor. Medium finish. Imported by The Sorting Table. erful flavors of honey, ginger and peach that fade Drink up. Imported by Terlato Wines Interna- to an enticing spice note. Imported by Valcken- tional. Domaine Marcel Deiss 2005 87 Engelgarten Bergheim (Alsace); berg International, Inc. Lucien Albrecht 2008 Réserve $40. Oxidative and spicy. Effusive mineral notes Wittmann 2007 We s t h o f e n e r 86 Riesling (Alsace); $20. Perfumy and provide complexity but turn heavy in the mouth light-bodied, with plenty of white flowers, honey without fruit for balance. Crisp, with a silky tex- 89 Trocken S Riesling (Rheinhessen); and beeswax. The dry palate turns almost sharp ture and a short-to-medium finish. Imported by $54. Bone dry but harmonious and well bal- at the end, pointing to an affinity with oysters. Vintus LLC. anced, with ripe acidity and restrained pear, This wine has neither the charm of youthful fruit honey and petroleum notes in a medium-bodied nor the complexity of maturity; better to give it a Cave de Ribeauvillé 2005 Clos du frame. Its finish is long and minerally. Drinking few years age. Imported by Pasternak Wi n e 86 Zahnacker (Alsace); $35. Clean and well now but will show more finesse several years Imports. fragrant, this blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris and down the road. Imported by Frederick Wildman Gewürztraminer exhibits notes of pear and tan- & Sons, Ltd. Jean-Baptiste Adam 2008 Reserve gerine on the nose, followed by an unctuous, 85 Riesling (Alsace); $17. Crisp and dry, flowery palate that folds into a medium finish of Rheingraf 2008 Scharlenberg Bin- with intense fresh apple, pear and mineral scents quince and melon rind. A good partner with 86 gen Riesling Trocken (Rhein- that lead to a palate of pure honeydew. Though it Asian fusion cuisine. Drink now. Imported by hessen); $NA. An austere, spicy wine and a has the acidity to hold a few years, this wine’s Apollo Fine Spirits. successful effort in the trocken category, with principal charm is its youthful fruit and is there- Christmas spices and orange peel scents and a fore best drunk before 2012. Imported by Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 light but balanced palate. The clove-inflected fin- Winebow. 86 Pinot D’Alsace (Alsace); $26. H e r e ’s ish is just this side of medium. Drink now to

W i n e M a g . c o m 2013. Imported by Valckenberg International, Rheingraf 2008 Riesling Tro c k e n D r. Loosen 2008 Erdener Tre p - Inc. 83 (Rheinhessen); $26. Dry and a bit 91 pchen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); sharp, this Rheinhessen trocken has some funky $30. This wine is a shining example of the glori- Weingut Liebfrauensift in Wo r m s low notes under its peach and pear fruit. It’s light ous minerality that singles out Mosel Riesling. 86 a/R. 2008 Liebfrauenstift-Kirc h e n - on its feet and suitable for a raw bar. Drink up. The nose shows really appealing pear and garde- stück Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen); Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. nia scents overlaying wet stone notes. The $NA. A laid-back take, with root vegetable and mouthwatering acidity wakes up your palate and mineral scents floating over a bed of ginger and Weingut Liebfrauensift in Wo r m s is in perfect balance with the substantial residual a/R. 2008 Wormser Riesling green apples. Passionfruit flavor brings the palate 83 s u g a r. Drink now (with sushi) or hold five or Trocken (Rheinhessen); $NA. to life while stony notes dominate the short-to- Opens with more years for even more complexity. Imported exotic notes of musk and summer jasmine, by Loosen Bros. USA. medium finish. Best now to 2011. Imported by backed up by scents of tangerine. The dry palate Valckenberg International, Inc. is light and more straightforward, wrapping up Joh. Jos. Prüm 2008 Graacher with a short burst of lemon peel. Imported by H i m m e l r eich Riesling Spätlese Rheingraf 2008 Kirchberg Bingen 91 Valckenberg International, Inc. (Mosel); $NA. Serious and earthy, like walking Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen); 85 into a wall of minerality. The fruit takes a back $NA. Notes of botrytis, carnations and spring P.J. Valckenberg 2008 Undone Dry seat here, but is lusciously peachy and fresh while vegetables open this dry Rheinhessen white. The 82 Riesling (Rheinhessen); $13. the long finish is sparked by hints of exotic spices. palate is straightforward and pointedly crisp, Despite the name, this wine is a bit done up aro- Give this two to three years to show its best. winding up on a clove note. A good choice for matically; it’s austere and lacking in fruit with just Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. fans of Pinot Grigio. Drink now. Imported by a shy note of lemon zest to soften things. Ultra- Valckenberg International, Inc. crisp and dry in the mouth, it has a clean citrusy Prinz 2008 Hallgartener Jongfer finish. Drink up. Imported by Valckenberg Inter- 91 Riesling Spätlese Goldkap (Rhein- Weingut Georg Albrecht Schnei- national, Inc. gau); $43. The ‘goldkap,’ or ‘gold capsule,’ in 85 der 2008 Niersteiner Dry-Style this wine’s designation indicates a riper cuvée Riesling (Rheinhessen); $14. An obvious but Weingut Liebfrauensift in Wo r m s than the producer’s ordinary spätlese. As appealing aroma of sour candy lead into a dry 82 a/R. 2008 Riesling Trocken (Rhein- expected, the fruit is exuberant and lush with palate that’s crisp but balanced, with nice pear hessen); $NA. The nose lacks punch, offering hints of tinned apricots and peach jam. An and grapefruit inflections. An apple note shows only faint notes of melon and white flowers while underlying note of lemon zest enlivens the palate through on the short-to-medium finish. Drink the crisp, fairly dry palate sails by on fleeting and carries over to the long, flowery finish. now. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. notes of white raspberry and pomelo. Not one for There’s lots of sweetness here; consider serving aging. Imported by Valckenberg International, on its own. Imported by Magellan Wine Imports. Weingut Liebfrauensift in Wo r m s Inc. 84 a/R. 2008 Riesling Trocken (Rhein- Markus Molitor 2008 We h l e n e r hessen); $NA. Lush aromas of mango and 90 Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese lychee are contradicted by the austere structure RIESLING SPÄTLESE (Mosel); $30. A mixture of mineral and spice of this wine. The acidity is severe and the finish, accompanies the lemon and apricot fruit in this Johannishof 2008 Rüdesheim though it shows some nice nut tones, ends on a tangy, focused Riesling. There’s plenty of inten- Berg Rottland Riesling Spätlese sity and an energizing balance of fresh acidity drying note. Drink now. Imported by Va l c k e n- 92 (Rheingau); $NA. A stunning expression of and lingering sweetness. Drink now or age four berg International, Inc. place, very mineral but with enough juicy stone to five years. Imported by Weingut Markus Moli- fruit nuances to be immediately likeable. It’s tight tor. Louis Guntrum 2007 Dry Riesling and focused, showing excellent balance and a (Rheinhessen); $16. Light and airy, 83 long, perfumed finish. Drink now (think sushi) Johannishof 2008 Johannisberger with petroleum, verbena and spring flower scents or stash away for five or more years for a more Klaus Riesling Spätlese (Rhein- and a medium finish with nice gravel and lemon 89 laid-back style. Imported by Valckenberg Inter- gau); $43. A different aromatic profile here, notes. Not a trace of sweetness. Try with raw national, Inc. Editors’ Choice. with bread dough and wet grass scents dominat- clams. Drink now. Imported by Broadbent Selec- ing the nose. It’s well structured, with good flow- tions, Inc. Markus Molitor 2008 Zeltinger ery intensity in the mouth and a weighty, 92 Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese medium-to-long finish. Drink now. Imported by M a r ku s M o li t or 2 0 08 H au s (Mosel); $30. Truly stunning, this white starts Valckenberg International, Inc. 83 Klosterberg Dry Riesling (Mosel); out with subtle talcum powder and gravel notes, $16. While the scents are decadent—honey, gin- then adds intense perfume and peaches in the Prinz 2008 Hallgartner Jungfer ger and candied pineapple—the achingly dry mouth. There’s a finely tuned balance and good 89 Riesling Spätlese (Rheingau); palate makes a tart impression. Try with oysters. length. Exceptional harmony and intensity sug- $NA. Concentrated and balanced, with high Drink now. Imported by Weingut Markus Moli- gest it will improve for 15 years or more. residual sugar and lip-smacking acidity propping t o r. Imported by Weingut Markus Molitor. up elegant white flower notes. The long, clean,

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E finish shows pretty green apple inflections. Drink slate thread running through the exquisitely crisp meld with mineral flavors in a medium-bodied now or cellar two to three years. Imported by palate. Spring flowers and honey notes soften up frame. There’s a good amount of residual sugar Magellan Wine Imports. the finish. Try with Thai noodles. Imported by here and lovely grapefruit peel and stone fruit HB Wine Merchants. accents on the short-to-medium finish. Drink D r. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) now. Imported by Winebow. 88 2008 Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Bollig-Lehnert 2008 Piesporter Spätlese (Mosel); $NA. Elegant, though 87 Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese D r. Fischer 2008 Ockfener Bock- t h e r e ’s no shortage of density to these flavors. (Mosel); $22. Quite off-dry but balanced, with 85 stein Riesling Spätlese (Mosel- Membrillo, sour drops and apricot are the main pretty pear scents over a base of wet earth and S a a r-Ruwer); $24. T h e r e ’s admirable ripeness themes, set against a mineral undertow. The h o n e y. Medium, slightly funky finish. Ideal to and concentration here but the confected nature palate is crisp and balanced though quite off-dry, partner with a Malaysian seafood dish. Drink of the fruit is distracting. Finishes a bit past short, winding down to a long, subtle finish of stone now to 2012. Imported by Winesellers Ltd.. with a mixed berry note. Best served on its own. fruits. Great now, but will improve over the next Imported by Winesellers Ltd. few years. Imported by Valckenberg Interna- Mönchhof 2008 Mosel Slate Ries- tional, Inc. 87 ling Spätlese (Mosel-Saar- R u w e r ) ; Carl Graff 2008 Graacher Himmel- $25. P r e t t y, in a ballet dancer style, with an 83 reich Riesling Spätlese (Mosel- D r. Heyden 2008 Oppenheimer underlying strength that belies the apparent del- S a a r-Ruwer); $17. T h e r e ’s definitely Sackträger Riesling Spätlese 88 i c a c y. Classic, peachy and delicious. Imported by something funky going on though the nose is not (Rheinhessen); $18. H e r e ’s a good value in Rudi Wiest Selections. unappealing, with some nice apricot overtones. the world of Spätlese, with a clean, pretty nose of Crisp and lightweight, it turns a bit sharp at the talcum powder and baby’s breath. There’s nice Rheingraf 2008 Riesling Spätlese end. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. mineral intensity and an off-dry, mouth-pucker- 87 (Rheinhessen); $32. Subtle for the ing finish. This easy-to-like wine would be a good type, with delicate quince, apricot and moss choice to serve as an apéritif to a crowd. notes that lead to a lemony palate. Piquant acid- RIESLING KABINETT Imported by Winesellers Ltd.. ity binds it all together in a taut frame. Off-dry. Drink now. Imported by Valckenberg Interna- Johannishof 2008 G Riesling Kabi- Markus Molitor 2008 Ürziger tional, Inc. nett (Rheingau); $29. An expressive, Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 91 88 extroverted style that still communicates a sense (Mosel); $30. Very spicy, with candied orange Schmitges 2008 Erdener Tre p - of place. There’s loads of dried fruit character peel and sour drop notes undercut by a lower pchen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); 87 here, with apple, nectarine, rose and graham honey-botrytis element. Appealing, if lacking the $26. Rich and succulent, with pineapple and jas- flour flavors that build to a long-lasting finish. purity of the best from this hallowed vineyard. mine top notes and intense stone fruit in the Light-bodied, with a spice aftertaste. Drink now Drink now. Imported by Weingut Markus mouth. There’s no shortage of sweetness here but or hold five-plus years. Imported by Va l c k e n b e r g M o l i t o r. it’s well framed by a vibrant acid structure that International, Inc. carries the fruit through to the medium finish. Schloss Vollrads 2008 Riesling Really well done. Imported by Magellan Wi n e Dr. Loosen 2008 Bernkasteler Lay Spätlese (Rheingau); $30. G e n e r- Imports. 88 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $25. ous, with a distinct pine character and tangy pas- 90 Give this wine some air before you serve it in sion fruit flavors framing the medium-bodied Weingut Georg Albrecht Schnei- palate. Exotic, medium finish of curry leaf and 87 der 2008 Niersteiner Hipping order to appreciate the entire range of its dense lemon curd. Drink now. Imported by Schmitt- Riesling Spätlese (Rheinhessen); $19. aromatics, which flow from delicate tangerine, to Sohne Inc. Savory in aroma, with popcorn and toast flavors peach and on into the mineral end of the spec- punctuated by a spice thread. Noticeably off-dry, trum. The palate is juicy, with an energizing ten- St. Urbans-Hof 2008 Piesporter this subtle white winds up on a sweet peach note. sion between the nervy acidity and delicate 88 Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese Drink now. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. sweetness. Finishes long, with a slate undertow. (Mosel); $23. Like drinking a fruit cocktail. Try with cod in a miso sauce. Imported by This exceptionally pretty white is succulent and Bollig-Lehnert 2008 Dhroner Hof- Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. balanced, with good depth and penetrating 86 berger Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); flower notes. The broad, medium-length finish $19. Crisp, refreshing and light as a feather, with Johannishof 2008 V Riesling Kabi- is dominated by ripe cantaloupe and green apple lemon zest and honeysuckle scents that wind 90 nett (Rheingau); $23. Very impres- notes. Drink now or hold a few years. Imported down to a musk finish. There’s a lot of flavor here sive, with a mineral backdrop setting the stage by HB Wine Merchants. for a fair price; consider this one for your next big for a powerful expression of apricot and pear gathering. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. fruit. The mouthwatering acidity masks a fair St. Urbans-Hof 2008 Ockfener amount of residual sugar, resulting in a lingering 88 Bockstein Riesling Spätlese Seebrich 2008 Niersteiner Hip- finish that seems dry. Drink now or hold for sev- (Mosel); $20. A less fruity take, with mineral 86 ping Riesling Spätlese (Rhein- eral years for a more nuanced expression. and kerosene dominating the nose and a wet hessen); $20. Peach, lemon meringue and pear Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc.

W i n e M a g . c o m Maximin Grünhäuser 2008 Her- hold a few years for a richer texture. Imported by shortish finish of orange blossom. Drink now. 90 renberg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel- Winesellers Ltd. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. S a a r-Ruwer); $29. T h e r e ’s a lot going on here, with petroleum, musk, orange flower and clove D r . P a u l y B e r g w e i le r 2 0 0 8 Max Wagner 2008 Tr a b e n e r scents on the nose while the palate is as light as a 87 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling 83 Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett feather, with mouthwatering acidity and a zippy, Kabinett (Mosel); $26. Unusual, with pine, (Mosel); $19. Aromas are redolent of a candy cinnamon-infused finish. Drink now or hold sev- bread dough and fish seasoning scents under- store—cotton candy, watermelon sours and can- eral years for more complexity. Imported by Val- pinned by a note of lemon. There’s mandarin died apples. The palate is a sharp contrast, dry, ckenberg International, Inc. orange in the delicate mouth, and a medium fin- austere and a bit thin. A few years in the cellar ish shot through with smoky notes. Drink now to will help tame the piercing acidity. Imported by Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2008 2012. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. Maxhof Imports. 90 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabi- nett (Mosel); $31. A classic Mosel Kabinett Schloss Schönborn 2008 Erbach that displays the concentration and pure, expres- 87 M a r cobrunn Riesling Kabinett OTHER RIESLINGS sive fruit typical of the great 2008 vintage. (Rheingau); $26. Spice and baked fruit are the There’s loads of Asian spice, apple and gardenia dominant scents here while an intense flavor of Schloss Vollrads 2008 Riesling Qualitätswein (Rheingau); $18. on the nose, while a citrus top note come through mandarin orange characterizes the palate. It’s just 87 on the palate. Finishes long, with a lingering min- off-dry and quite crisp, a good choice for a Thai Zesty and fresh, with notes of green plums and eral edge. Will improve over the next decade or fish preparation. Drink now. Imported by Wine- grass leading to palate of lemon meringue and pineapple. Finishes sweet but well balanced, with more though it’s drinking well now. Imported by sellers Ltd. a nice stone fruit accent. A good crowd-pleaser at Valckenberg International, Inc. Editors’ Choice. Karl Joh. Molitor 2008 Hatten- a fair price. Imported by Schmitt-Sohne Inc. St. Urbans-Hof 2008 Piesporter heimer Riesling Kabinett (Rhein- 86 D r. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 89 Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett gau); $15. H e r e ’s a slightly drier style, with 2008 Riesling (Mosel); $23. L u x u r i - (Mosel); $23. Soft at first, but the density of white flower, pear and stone fruit notes inter- 86 ous and off-dry, with faded flower scents shot the pine, gardenia and spice flavors emerges as spersed with an austere mineral character. Short- through with gunflint. Roses and carnations the wine opens up while the lingering finish to-medium finish of Chinese spice box. Drink grace the palate, trailing off to a medium, per- shows excellent purity of fruit. Serve with sushi. now. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. fumed finish. Try with Thai noodles. Drink at its Drink now or hold three to four years for more peak now but will hold a few years. Imported by complexity. Imported by HB Wine Merchants. Louis Guntrum 2007 Niersteiner Valckenberg International, Inc. 86 B e r g k i r che Riesling Kabinett J osef R osc h 2008 L eiwener (Rheinhessen); $24. A decadent, extroverted D r. P a u l y B er g w e i l e r 2 0 0 8 Klostergarten Riesling Kabinett 88 style, with sweet flowers, overripe apricots and a 86 B e r nkasteler Badstube Riesling (Mosel); $20. On the subtle side for a Mosel honeysuckle character that is saved from being Kabinett (Mosel); $22. Lemon zest and Riesling, with shy aromas of melon and peach cloying by a shining streak of acidity. Try with exotic spices enliven the nose while the crisp and a stony character in the mouth. This one is Malaysian food. Drink now to 2014. Imported by palate is rounded out by notes of cooked pear. likely to be more expressive after a few years in Broadbent Selections, Inc. Despite a sweet attack, this Riesling finishes dry the cellar. Imported by Magellan Wine Imports. and chalky. Drink now to 2011. Imported by Schmitges 2008 Red Slate Riesling Winesellers Ltd. St. Urbans-Hof 2008 Ockfener 86 Kabinett (Mosel); $18. Opens in an 88 Bockstein Riesling Kabinett offbeat (in a good way) style, with cantaloupe, M ar ku s Mo l it o r 20 08 H a u s (Mosel); $24. This is a zippy little number, with orange, chamomile and newly mown hay scents 86 Klosterberg Riesling (Mosel); $16. scents of white cherries and citrus that float over a that give way to more classic flavors of wet stones Intriguing, with Indian spice and petroleum top bed of petroleum and fresia. The crisp, off-dry and apricot in the mouth. There’s quite a bit of notes followed by pomelo and lime fruit. There’s finish winds down to a lingering grapefruit note. residual sugar here but the crisp acidity results in density to the citrus fruit and an overall elegance. Drink now with cod in a miso sauce or stash away a fairly dry finish. Drink now to 2011. Imported It picks up more acidity on the finish, resulting in for a few years. Imported by HB Wine Mer- by Magellan Wine Imports. a refreshing impression. Nicely done. Imported chants. by Weingut Markus Molitor. Ve reinigte Hospitien 2008 Pies- D r. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller- 86 porter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Mönchhof 2008 Estate Riesling 87 Burggraef) 2008 Bern k a s t e l e r Kabinett (Mosel); $26. This wine starts out 86 ( M o s e l - S a a r-Ruwer); $17. T h i s Badstube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $21. with a serious ethyl acetate (nail polish remover) tangy white shows true Mosel character with A very classic style, with peach and floral notes problem but cleans up with aeration. Aromas scents of wet stone, apricot and lime in a delicate, upfront set against a mineral backdrop. There’s here are sweet and a bit candyish—sour apple, energetic frame. It’s crisp and slightly sweet but riveting acidity in the mouth and some slate char- spiced pear and watermelon flavors that lead to a refreshing throughout. Drink now to 2012. acter but it fades away a bit too quickly. Drink or pleasant, flowery palate. Quite off-dry, with a Imported by Rudi Wiest Selections.

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E Schloss Johannisberger 2008 Ries- Drink now. Imported by Valckenberg Interna- THE WINE ENTHUSIAST 86 ling Qualitätswein (Rheingau); tional, Inc. $NA. Ample and off-dry with spunky notes of BUYING GUIDE Schmitt Söhne 2008 Relax Riesling crushed flowers and fresh herbs. Finishes on a The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new charming note of baked apple. This likable wine 85 (Mosel); $10. Straightforward and releases and selected older wines evaluated by Wi n e c r e a m y, with lemon zest and white cherry accents Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. is a good choice for a big crowd. Imported by Va l- On a regular basis the Buying Guide includes reports on ckenberg International, Inc. and a lively, citrus palate that’s not too sweet. Fin- special tastings and the wines of specific producers. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Senior ishes dry, with a lingering wet stone note. Editor/Tasting Director Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Schmitt Söhne 2008 Anything Imported by Schmitt-Sohne Inc. Best Buy. Director Lauren Buzzeo, Senior Editor Susan Kostrzewa and Contributing Editor Michael Schachner in New York, 86 Goes Riesling (Mosel); $12. A whim- European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor sical name and a whimsical wine, with overt white Schumann-Nägler 2008 Riesling Monica Larner in Rome, Contributing Editor Steve (Rheingau); $14. Heimoff in Oakland and Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt f l o w e r, honeysuckle and melon scents that lead to 85 A cozy, likable wine, in Seattle. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that a softly textured palate, replete with perfume and with gardenia, honeycomb and grapefruit themes. taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers lychee flavors. Try with seafood in a citrus sauce. It’s just off-dry and has good weight and density and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all in the mouth, though it falls a bit short. A good tasters. Drink now. Imported by Schmitt-Sohne Inc. Each review contains a score, the full name of the wine, pick for warm weather sipping. Imported by its suggested national retail price, and a tasting note. If price Studert-Prüm 2008 Riesling Winebow. cannot be confirmed, $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. 86 (Mosel); $19. This is a thoroughly C l u s s e r a t h - Wei ler 2008 HC Fein- TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS enjoyable sipper with moderate intensity, pretty Tastings are conducted individually or in a group setting and herb Riesling (Mosel); $24. tiger lily and baby’s breath scents and a finish 84 A n performed blind or in accordance with accepted industry unusual nose for a Riesling, with yeast, brioche practices. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When pos- t h a t ’s all apricot fruit, but with a faint mineral sible, wines considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. and fresh eggs dominating. The dough-flavored note. Drink now. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. palate is harmonious, with just a touch of sweet- ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular wine. August Kesseler 2008 R Riesling ness balancing the crisp acidity. Drink now. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompa- Imported by Magellan Wine Imports. nying tasting note to learn about a wine’s special characteris- 85 (Rheingau); $18. Honest and clean, t i c s . with white flower charm and a mouthwatering D r. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller- Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. palate that shows nice honeysuckle and lily char- Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Burggraef) 2008 Classic Riesling Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. acter. Quince and beeswax come through on the 84 (Mosel); $19. Dry Mosel wines are rarely very Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. crisp but slightly sweet finish. Drink now or in Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; successful and this example is no exception. More often good value. 2011. Imported by Vineyard Brands. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- residual sugar, less acid or both would have been critical circumstances. an improvement. As is, it strikes a shrill note, D r. Pauly Bergweiler 2008 Noble Wines receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed. though the white flower aromatics are undoubt- House Riesling (Mosel); $13. A 85 edly appealing. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS charming wine at a fair price, with jump-out-of- Editors’ Choice wines are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a wine at any price the-glass potpourri scents backed up by lilies and Maximin Grünhäuser 2008 Ries- with unique qualities that merit special attention. a cut grass back note. It’s a bit monotone in the Cellar Selections are wines deemed highly collectible 84 ling (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); $24. and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cel- mouth and has no great density but the pretty There’s some mossy tones under the fresh pear lar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection note of faded flower petals hangs around just long designation does not mean that a wine must be stored to be fruit along with a slight spritz that keeps every- enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enough to make you forget all that. Drink up. thing lively. Pretty lemon and grapefruit notes enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring Imported by Winesellers Ltd. will be indicated. show through on the (slightly tart) finish. Drink Best Buys are wines that offer a high level of quality in n o w. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or for- Rudi Wiest 2007 Rhein River Ries- mulae for determining Best Buys, but they are generally priced at $15 or less. 85 ling (Rheinhessen); $10. A perky, S.A. Prüm 2008 Essence Riesling SUBMITTING WINES FOR REVIEW zesty wine, with appealing moss and honeysuckle 84 (Mosel); $13. Aromatic yet not overly Wines should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing scents followed by a grapefruit peel character in location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via complex, with apple, orange and tangerine scents winemag.com/contact. Inquiries should be addressed to the mouth. Feels soft and light on the palate but punctuated by faint minerality. The palate is Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo at 914.345.8463 finishes clean. Drink up. Imported by Rudi Wi e s t or email [email protected]. There is no charge nicely perfumed but a tad on the tart side. Drink for submitting wines. We make every effort to taste all wines Selections. Best Buy. up. Imported by Palm Bay International. submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all wines submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All wines must be accompanied by a submis- Schloss Saarstein 2008 Riesling St. Urbans-Hof 2008 Riesling sion form, which may be downloaded from our Web site. 85 ( M o s e l - S a a r-Ruwer); $16. Clearly in 84 (Mosel); $17. There’s more minerality LABELS the mineral camp, with aromas of wet stones and here than one has a right to expect from a Qual- Labels are paid promotions. Wineries and winery representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, gravel taking precedence over the peach fruit. itätswein, along with pretty peach and pear fruit, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes Some nice lanolin and kiwi flavors peek through all wrapped in an approachable (but not slack) and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 8 1 3 . 5 7 1 . 1 1 2 2; fax 8 6 6 . 8 9 6 . 8 7 8 6; or email in the mouth, set against a soft, light-bodied structure. Drink up. Imported by HB Wi n e d v a l e n z a@w i n e e n t h u s i a s t . n e t . structure. The mineral finish is on the short side. Merchants.

W i n e M a g . c o m P.J. Valckenberg 2008 V Riesling Castell 2008 Casteller Schlossberg fectionary notes here are a bit over-the-top, with 83 (Rheinhessen); $14. Simple but 84 Silvaner Trocken (Franken); $NA. bubblegum and candied pineapple leading into pleasant sipper, with understated aromas of tal- This Silvaner shows more aromatic sophistication candied ginger in the mouth. It’s crisp and light- cum powder, fresh grapes and quince. Finishes than most of its brethren; there’s baking spices, to-medium-bodied, with a short, apricot finish. light, peachy and clean. A good companion for white flowers and apples on the nose with a saf- Drink up. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. sushi. Drink now. Imported by Va l c k e n b e r g fron undertone. Crisp and earthy in the mouth, International, Inc. with good palate weight and a short to medium finish of lime peel. Drink up. Imported by Va l c k- RED WINES Schmitges 2008 Qualitätswein enberg International, Inc. Riesling (Mosel); $16. Baking scents 83 Franz Keller 2007 Franz Anton have the upper hand here, along with a sprin- Weingut Am Stein 2007 Ludwig Pinot Noir (Baden); $37. Crisp and kling of fresh citrus tones that glide through to 84 Knoll VINZ Alte Reben Silvaner 88 the finish on a slick of biting acidity. Try with Spätlese Trocken (Franken); $32. T h e r e ’s tightly wound, this Baden Pinot has lovely cherry chips & dip. Drink up. Imported by Magellan an unusual, but not unappealing, collection of pie and vanilla scents folding in to leather and Wine Imports. aromas here, from ginger and nutmeg to balsa mixed berry flavors on the palate. Long, slightly wood, talcum powder and petroleum. A bit can- tart finish of saddle leather. Drink now to 2013. died in the mouth, with a hit of cinnamon on the Imported by Schmitt-Sohne Inc. S I LVA N E R short finish. Drink up. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. Weinhaus Heger 2005 Estate Castell 2007 Casteller Schlossberg 88 ‘Sonett’ Pinot Noir (Baden); $25. GG Silvaner Trocken (Franken); Castell-Castell 2008 Silvaner 87 This wine overdelivers for its pale garnet color. $61. An exceptional example of what can be Trocken (Franken); $16. Light and 83 T h e r e ’s loads of sweet cherry fruit along with done with the humble Silvaner grape, this white pretty on the nose, with carnations, lemon and mocha and caramel character, all set in a bed of is fresh and highly nuanced, with exotic galangal just a hint of candied ginger in the background. A soft tannins. A long finish trails off to an extended and Asian pear scents that lead to a crisp palate tad watery in the mouth, with a short citrus peel with Guanabana flavor. Dry, medium finish. aftertaste. Drink up. Imported by Va l c k e n b e r g earth note. Try with leg of lamb. Fully mature, Drink now to 2011. Imported by Va l c k e n b e r g International, Inc. drink up in the next year or two. Imported by International, Inc. Rudi Wiest Selections. Juliusspital 2008 Würzburger Horst Sauer 2007 Eschern d o r f e r 83 Stein Silvaner Kabinett Tro c k e n Huber 2007 Hecklinger Schloss- 86 Lump Silvaner Spätlese Tro c k e n (Franken); $28. H o n e y, cream and watermelon 86 berg R Spätburgunder (Baden); (Franken); $36. A truly mouthwatering wine, notes make for a likable opening. The crisp, cit- $70. There’s sweet, ripe fruit here meshed with with lovely aromas of freesia, mineral and petro- rusy palate is straightforward, with just a hint of black earth notes but also a back note of rhubarb leum, backed up by grapefruit and apricot in the softness. Medium lime and fresia finish. Drink and green vegetables. Crisp, medium finish. A mouth. Finishes fresh and crisp with apple and now. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. few years in the cellar will help integrate a peach blossom character. Ideal for an apéritif. slightly disjointed vanilla note. Imported by Val- Drink now. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. Juliusspital 2008 Würzburger 82 Abtsleite Silvaner Kabinett ckenberg International, Inc. Castell 2008 Kugelspiel Silvaner Trocken (Franken); $25. A bit bland, with Huber 2007 Malterdinger Pinot 85 Trocken (Franken); $24. Opens with some maraschino cherry character along with a candied note, cut through with spice and apri- faint melon rind notes. There’s good acidity in 85 Noir (Baden); $47. Unusual aromatics cot scents. There’s good intensity and fresh acid- the mouth but the short finish of spiced pear are dominated by hints of zucchini and other ity in the mouth and an appealing final note of leaves behind a soft, slightly muddled impres- green vegetables. There’s a pleasant spice theme burnt orange peel. Serve as an apéritif. Drink sion. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. to the palate but also some very aggressive tan- n o w. Imported by Valckenberg International, nins. Rhubarb flavors show through on the Inc. Juliusspital 2008 Würzburg Sil- medium finish. Give the tannins a few years to 82 vaner Trocken (Franken); $18. T h i s round out. Imported by Valckenberg Interna- Wirsching 2007 Dry Silvaner white from the Franken region of Germany tional, Inc. 85 (Franken); $17. At just three years old, shows more aromatic intensity than your typical this bottle shows some developed petroleum Silvaner, but there’s a candied edge here that’s a Huber 2006 Trocken Spätburgun- notes that add interest to the often lackluster Sil- bit offputting. It’s crisp in the mouth, with good der (Baden); $37. Earthy and crisp, vaner grape. The mouth has an interesting body and some nice apple notes that linger. 84 with mixed berry and moss notes peaking pineapple element, carrying over to the medium Drink now. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. finish. This is a relaxed, food-oriented style that through a heavy layer of vanilla. Light-bodied, would go well with a Mediterranean fish prepara- Weingut Am Stein 2007 Ludwig caramel-flavored palate. Try with lamb chops. tion. Drink now. Imported by Rudi Wiest Selec- 82 Knoll Würzburger Stein Silvaner Will improve with a year or two in the cellar. tions. Kabinett Trocken (Franken); $22. The con- Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc.

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E farm-country theme, this earthy Shiraz from palate has a chiseled clarity to it that’s crisp and GREECE Hungary offers up pleasant mocha and coffee appreciated. A flavor profile of dry apple, citrus ground scents upfront and a crisp, medium- and dusty spice is good, and the finish is fresh WHITE WINE weight palate with tame tannins. Drink up. and lemony. Drink right away. Imported by Fine Imported by Blue Danube Wine Co. Estates From Spain. —M.S. My Big Fat Greek Wine 2009 Pri- 89 vate Label White Savatiano Pfneisl United Vi n e y a r ds 2007 Adegas Gran Vinum 2008 Mar de (Attica); $NA. This elegant, aromatic white 83 Ujra Együtt Kekfrankos (Sopron); 85 Viñas Albariño (Rías Baixas); $15. combines pear and flowers with a crisp, citrusy $15. The often underrated Kefrankos grape per- The name means “Sea of Vines,” and that’s what lift. Good minerality and depth with a slightly forms well here, with toffee and coffee ground you see in Rías Baixas. Here, we have a dry, crisp creamy mouthfeel. A unique, pretty white that is character interwoven with fresh strawberries. white with apple and apricot on the nose and a a standout as a solo sip or with lighter fare. T h e r e ’s a nice grip to the finish but the tawny bit of roundness, weight and chunkiness in the Imported by Hellas Import Limited. —S.K. hue suggests drinking sooner rather than later. mouth. Tastes of pithy apple and apricot, with Imported by Blue Danube Wine Co. mild bitterness on the finish. Drink now. HUNGARY Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S. LEBANON Pazo San Mauro 2008 Albariño RED WINES 85 (Rías Baixas); $18. Light, simple and RED WINES ready to drink. More acidic than some, with a Gere Attila 2006 Kopar (Villány); cleansing, almost sour flavor package of green 89 $60. This blend of Cabernet Franc and Heritage 2007 Grand Vin Bour- apple and lemon. Shows a lot of unabsorbed Merlot is rich, complex and brawny, with straw- 83 geois (Bekaa Valley); $25. T h i s acidity on the finish, which forces the wine berry on the nose, raspberry on the tongue, and a Rhône blend (Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache) toward being crisp and minimalist. Drink now. firm structure of fresh acidity and dense tannins. from Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley has sylvan aromas Imported by Steve Miles Selections. —M.S. Best after a few years in the cellar. Imported by on top of a base of plum and raspberry jam. It’s Blue Danube Wine Co. full bodied, with a bit of grip to the palate and some prune character showing through on the C A S T I L L A G e r e Attila 2007 Solus Merlot medium finish. Imported by Vidalco Interna- 89 ( V illány); $76. The Solus Merlot is tional, LLC. Storks’ Tower 2008 Cuesta Del unabashedly ambitious, with upfront vanilla from 85 A i r e Sauvignon Blanc-Ve r d e j o toasty new oak, a high level of extraction and a Heritage 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- ( V ino de la Tierra de Castilla y León); dense, black core of ripe fruit. It’s full bodied, 82 gnon (Bekaa Valley); $12. T h e r e ’s $15. Dry and not all that fruity up front, with a with steely tannins and a long finish of fig and an initial struck match note that floats away to blast of oak. The palate shows weight and bold char. Try with a pan-seared steak. Imported by reveal nice mixed berry and char notes, propped a c i d i t y, which pumps up the lemon, apple and Blue Danube Wine Co. up by a sinewy tannins. Full bodied and rich, pineapple flavors. A bit sour, scouring and sharp, with a final note of plum jam. Try with barbecue. but also cleansing and fresh. Blunt white wine. Gere Attila 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Drink now. Imported by Vidalco International, Imported by HAB North America. —M.S. 86 gnon (Villány); $25. A good intro- LLC. duction to the better reds of Hungary, this Storks’ Tower 2008 Tr í p t i c o Cabernet Sauvignon shows ripe berry character 85 Ve rdejo-Sauvignon Blanc (Vi n o on the nose and notes of plums and stewed fruit SPAIN de la Tierra de Castilla y León); $25. A in the mouth. What it lacks in freshness, it makes barrel-heavy blend of Sauvignon Blanc and up for in concentration and ambition. Try with WHITE WINES Verdejo? That’s what this is, so expect popcorn beef stew. Best now but will last a few years. and bland white fruit along with plenty of acidity. Imported by Blue Danube Wine Co. RÍAS BAIXAS On one hand, it’s an angular, sour wine that makes you wonder; on the other hand, it blends Gere Attila 2008 Portugieser (Vil- Viña Bade 2008 Albariño (Rías toast, butter, baked apple and lemon into a nutty 85 lány); $15. This red is appealing for its 88 Baixas); $15. Clean and vibrant, with whole that’s not bad. Has both merits and faults. h o n e s t y, with scents of fresh grapes and wet black citrus blossom and apple aromas. The palate is a Imported by HAB North America. —M.S. earth. It turns a bit perfumed in the mouth but bit neutral in flavor but shows good cut and a has a solid finish, supported by good acidity and cleansing feel along with tastes of spiced apple Dominio de Eguren 2008 Pro t o- gentle tannins. Drink now. Imported by Blue and white nectarine. Finishes clean and pure. 84 colo (Tierra de Castilla); $7. For $7 Danube Wine Co. Drink now. Imported by Vino Cava. —M.S. this white blend from central Spain does about as well as can be hoped for. Transparent in color, Pfneisl United Vi n e y a r ds 2005 La Cana 2008 Albariño (Rías with aromas of children’s vitamin and apple, it’s 83 S t e r l i n g ’ s F a v o r i t e S h i r a z 87 Baixas); $17. Opens with peach and nothing special but it is wet, drinkable and tasty. ( S o p ron) ; $20. A bit rustic, but charming in a apple aromas that are 100% normal, while the Flavors of green apple and citrus lead to a dry,

W i n e M a g . c o m quick finish. Imported by Fine Estates From René Barbier NV Mediterranean Viñas del Ve r o 2008 Clarión Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. 86 White (Catalunya); $6. Some Bar- 82 (Somontano); $20. Hard and oily bier wines, depending on when you catch them, smelling, with an acrid overtone. The palate is Storks’ Tower 2008 Sauvignon are fresh, pleasant and overdeliver. Others are grating and tastes of bitter, pithy citrus, while the 84 B l a n c - Ve rdejo (Vino de la Tierra dull and dead. This one falls into the first cate- finish is equally bitter, with grapefruit pith lasting de Castilla y León); $10. A bit jumbled early gory with its melon, apple and Asian pear aro- too long. Expensive for what you get. Imported on, and then more open and minerally. The mas and flavors. It’s lithe, light in body and clean. by San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. palate is chunky but hollow, with melon and Good as it gets for $6. Imported by Freixenet M a r qués de Alella 2008 Pansa green fruit flavors. Finishes with a touch of citrus USA. Best Buy. —M.S. Blanca (Alella); $12. Seems like it’s and a soft, quick fade. Bland but easy to drink. 80 Bodegas Fontana 2008 Mesta past its sell-by date. Smells musky and tastes Imported by HAB North America. —M.S. 85 Macabeo-Moscatel (Uclés); $7. sweet and gummy. Candied papaya and mango is Spanish Vines 2008 Sauvignon Neutral, clean, good white wine for the money. about all you get. Low-pulse stuff. Imported by The nose features green apple and lemon, and CIV/USA. —M.S. Blanc-Macabeo (Vino de la Tierra 83 the low-octane body shows brine, citrus fruit fla- de Castilla); $10. Same score as the prior year, vors and pithy notes. White grapefruit and and pretty much the same wine. It’s dusty and orange flavors carry the simple finish to a good ROSADO WINES slightly burnt in aromas and flavors, with banana, ending. Imported by Wi n e b o w. Best Buy. — peach and pithy bitterness extending onto the M.S. Recorba 2009 Rosado Te m p r a n i l l o finish. Mouthfeel is the best part; otherwise it 85 (Ribera del Duero); $10. For a Rib- struggles to make the cut. Imported by Spanish Dominio Buenavista 2008 Veleta era rosé, this gets it mostly right. The nose is neu- Vines, Inc. —M.S. 84 Vijiriega White Blend (Vino de la tral and standard, while the spunky palate sports Tierra Contraviesa Alpujarra); $9. R i p e good acidity and flavors of strawberry and rasp- apple and nutty aromas suggest some light oak, b e r r y. Wet and refreshing on the finish, and good N AVA R R A while the palate is wet at first and then more overall. Imported by Testa Wines Of The World. drawn and dry as it moves along. Flavors of apple Best Buy. —M.S. Vega Sindoa 2008 Navarra; $8. and spice are mildly alluring, while the finish is 85 Light, floral and almondy, with hints of chunky and broad. Made from the uncommon Casita Mami 2009 Rosado Gar- p e a r, apple and buttercup on the nose. More Vijiriega grape and hails from Granada. Imported 84 nacha (Navarra); $11. Vivid pink in creamy and soft than acidic, with pear and vanilla by JNJ International Inc. —M.S. c o l o r, with dusty, easygoing raspberry aromas. flavors. The finish holds steady for a while, and The palate is a bit soft and low in acidity, which overall the wine is likable. 75% Viura and 25% Paso a Paso 2008 Ve rdejo (La indicates that this is the year to drink the C h a r d o n n a y. Imported by Fine Estates From 84 Mancha); $10. I n i t i a l l y, lemony aro- wine...and as soon as possible. Flavors of cherry Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. mas and flower notes stir interest, while the and strawberry are regular, if a touch bitter palate has a medium-to-full feel and pumped-up toward the finish. Imported by Romero & Miller, No Time 2008 Viura-Chardonnay melon and floral flavors. But with time it grows LLC. —M.S. 82 (Navarra); $11. Aromas of mealy s o f t e r, more pithy and dull. Ultimately it lacks Prado Rey 2009 Rosado (Ribera melon, pineapple juice and warm radiator dust spine and purity of flavors, but how much can you expect from a $10 La Mancha white? del Duero); $13. Vanilla wafer aromas do nothing to distinguish this Viura-led white. 80 Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. leave this taster lost. The longer it airs out, the The palate is clipped and tangy, with citrus fla- more weird the wine gets. Milk chocolate, vanilla vors leading to a pithy, orange-peel finish. Quo 2008 Macabeo-Chard o n n a y and marshmallow dominate everything from aro- Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S. 83 (Campo de Borja); $10. Banana and mas to feel to flavor to finish. A barrel-fermented green herb aromas make for a challenging nose. rosé from Ribera Del Duero: why? Imported by OTHER WHITE WINES The palate has verve and acidity but its flavors of Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. dull white fruits, melon and peach are jumbled. A clumsy mishmash of a wine; 80% Macabeo Raimat 2008 Viña 24 Albariño (Viura) and 20% Chardonnay. Imported by The SPAIN (Costers del Segre); $10. With dusty 86 Artisan Collection. —M.S. apple cider aromas and tingling acidity, this RED WINES seems a lot like Galician Albariño even though it’s S u m a r r o c a 2 0 0 8 X a r e l - l o from Costers del Segre in Catalonia. Given its 82 (Penedès); $13. Simple to the point RIBERA DEL DUERO price, it boasts solid if pithy apple and gooseberry of being boring. Aromas of generic white fruits flavors, modest elegance and only a touch of bit- d o n ’t stand out, while the palate is soft and tastes Emilio Moro 2006 Malleolus de terness on a green fruit finish. Drink soon. vaguely of kiwi and nectarine. Finishes flat. Sim- 97 Va l d e r r a m i ro Tinto Fino (Ribera Imported by Bronco Wine Company. Best Buy. ilar to the 2007. Imported by Frontier Wi n e del Duero); $180. Beautifully composed, with —M.S. Imports. —M.S. power and just as much precision and pizzazz.

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E The nose offers lightly baked berry fruit notes, Duero); $50. A touch horsey at first, but with identity. Drink now through 2012. Imported by leather and spice, while the palate is loaded with time it settles on saddle leather and earthy fruit. Spanish Wine Imports, LLC. —M.S. tobacco, exotic spices and the finest natural berry The palate is chunky and beefy, with some funk, flavors Spain has to offer. Smooth, elegant, chocolate and herbal black fruit. Not super Bodegas Peñafiel 2006 Miro s finessed and potent, with integrated tannins and spunky and lively, but dense as a brick and inter- 88 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero ) ; bold acidity that will keep it going for at least a esting. Drink now through 2014. Imported by $19. A bit sweet and raisiny on the nose, but decade. Drink from 2012 through 2018. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. also dense and powerful. The palate runs rough Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. C e l l a r and tannic, but there’s enough richness and Selection. —M.S. Prado Rey 2004 Gran Reserva extract to allow for that. Flavors of cassis and 90 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero ) ; raspberry are dark but snappy, while the finish Emilio Moro 2006 Malleolus de $53. Bold, dark and handsome, albeit a touch has raisiny notes but also some edge. This one 96 Sanchomartin Tinto del Pais (Rib- herbal and earthy on the nose. The palate is thick may improve with time; drink now through 2013. era del Duero); $204. Talk about magnetic and statuesque, with herbal, rooty berry fruit, a Imported by Vino Cava. —M.S. aromas of bacon, tobacco and bold black fruit, spot of raisin, and cracked black pepper. Chewy, and then comes an oak-rich palate full of deep and ultimately dry on the finish. Drinkable Valdubón 2004 Reserva Te m - coconut, butter, chocolate and exotic berry fla- now; best in another couple of years. Imported 88 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $24. vor. Chocolate truffle and pastry work the finish, by Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. A touch gritty and baked on the nose, and that and overall this is a mile-deep beauty to drink ripe character persists throughout this semimod- from 2011 through 2017. Imported by Fine Viña Mayor 2006 Crianza Te m - ern Ribera wine. Along the route there’s raisiny Estates From Spain. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 90 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $16. notes, baked plum flavors and oak-driven vanilla Excellent Ribera crianza here. It has a smooth, and spice. On the finish, vanilla is the lasting fla- Viñedos y Bodegas Garcia Figuero appealing bouquet of candied berry fruit, which v o r. Solid and oaky, with some pushy coconut. 93 2006 Tinto Figuero Noble (Ribera is followed by a rich palate of cassis, black cherry, Imported by Freixenet USA. —M.S. del Duero); $131. A touch doughy on the prune, chocolate and coffee. For the price point nose, with prune and blackberry aromas that are this is right on the money; it’s ripe but also really Viña Mayor 2004 Reserva Te m - neither pushy nor aggressive. The palate is ripe, good and ready to drink. Imported by HAB 88 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $25. rich and just forward enough, with blackberry, North America. —M.S. Raspberry and plum aromas carry a mild floral, wild berry, coffee and fudge flavors. Settles nicely perfumed accent, while the palate is medium in on the finish, and overall this wine shows almost Pedrosa 2004 Gran Reserva (Rib- weight, with good flow due to lively acidity. Fla- all of what’s good about modern Ribera del 89 era del Duero); $NA. Earthy and vors of red fruits are equalized by oaky vanilla Duero wines. 250 cases made; drink now through crusty at first, with smoked meat, black fruit and and dry herbs, while the finish is lengthy and 2015. Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.S. dryness to the nose. The palate is well formed snappy due to aforementioned core acidity. and proper, with dry raspberry and mild choco- Imported by HAB North America. —M.S. Yllera 2004 Dominus Gran Selec- late flavors. Finishes peppery and solid, with the 91 ción Viñedos Viejos (Vino de la slightest herbal note. Very nice wine to drink now Bodegas Peñafiel 2003 Miros de Tierra de Castilla y León); $50. A genuinely through 2014. Imported by Michael Skurnik 87 Ribera Reserva Tempranillo (Rib- attractive, well-made old vines red with earthy, Wines. —M.S. era del Duero); $50. Dry, dusty and minty on minerally aromas along with violet petal and the nose, with cherry, cedar and sweet oak notes. blackberry. The palate has a fine feel to it, depth Viñedos y Bodegas Garcia Figuero The palate has a hard, clangy bite to it, while the and complexity, while flavors of dry berry and 89 2006 Tinto Figuero 12 Crianza flavors run toward herbal cherry and dried baking spices work wonders. Dry, pure and long (Ribera del Duero); $29. A bit heavy and tobacco. Some vanilla and cola along the way on the finish, and really quite excellent for a vino raisiny, but with that said there’s no denying the bring up the pleasure quotient. Drink now. de tierra. Drink now through 2014. Imported by wine’s richness and ripeness. Lush and dense in Imported by Vino Cava. —M.S. Grupo Yllera. —M.S. the mouth, with cocoa, roasted fruit and a mild syrupy lean to the flavor profile. Sweet but a little Condado de Oriza 2004 Reserva Alidis 2004 Reserva Te m p r a n i l l o short on the finish, and condensed. Drink now 87 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero ) ; 90 (Ribera del Duero); $36. A potent, through 2012. Imported by Quintessential $23. Coconut and vanilla aromas ride front and concentrated sort of wine with minerally, crusty Wines. —M.S. center on the oaky nose, although berry fruit aromas, smoked meat and black fruit. The palate rises up with time. The palate is bulky and satu- is deep and ripe, with pure, tasty, sweet flavors of Bodegas Fuentespina 2006 Selec- rated, almost what you’d call thick, while the fla- mildly baked blackberry. Generous late, with 88 ción Crianza Tempranillo (Ribera vors lean toward roasted berry, plum and mocha and toast on the finish. Best now through del Duero); $18. Solid if a bit soupy and woodspice. Vanilla and additional wood accents 2012. Imported by Hidalgo Imports, LLC. tomato-driven on the nose. In the mouth, there’s work the finish. Imported by Félix Solís Avantis. —M.S. a nice offset between herbal, red fruit character- —M.S. istics, tobacco and black fruit. Overall, it’s a gritty, Finca To r r emilanos 2005 To r r e tight, honest Ribera wine with a long, powerful Diaz Bayo 2006 Nuestro Te m - 90 Albéniz Reserva (Ribera del finish. Just ripe enough, with indviduality and 87 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $27.

W i n e M a g . c o m Opens with unique, abnormal aromas of spiced brown sugar. Drink now. Imported by Grape tart. In between the wine’s tang and zest, there’s fruit, cardamom and nutmeg. The palate is thick Expectations (CA). —M.S. moderate sweetness, vanilla and mild wood notes along the edges but lacks body in the middle, stemming from the five months it spent in barrel. while flavors of red berry fruit are chunky, mildly Viña Mayor 2007 Secreto Te m - Imported by Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. stewy and roasted. Earthy and funky wine, but 87 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $20. with good feel and overall good character. From Viña Mayor, this French-oak-aged wine is Pedrosa 2006 Reserva (Ribera del Imported by Ole Imports. —M.S. composed and dry, with good plum and berry 85 D u e ro); $NA. R o o t y, tough aromas are aromas that bring balanced oak as well. The b r a m b l y, while the palate is narrow in feel, drying Pago del Vostal 2006 Crianza palate sports proper weight and balance, solid and tastes of herbal raspberry and cherry. Quite 87 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero ) ; berry and plum flavors, and a warm, minty finish. snappy and a little sharp, with a quick finish of $24. Slightly more leafy, herbal and burnt on the Not mind blowing but good for a weak vintage. red fruit, tomato and zest. Could improve with nose than ideal, but there’s also tobacco, cherry Imported by HAB North America. —M.S. aging, but at this point the wine, while solid, and earth notes to keep it proper. The palate is seems lacking in stuffing. Imported by Michael smooth in feel, with good depth, while the flavor Viña Vilano 2004 Reserva Te m - Skurnik Wines. —M.S. profile has a salty side as well as black cherry and 87 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $40. molasses. Good wine with a few issues. —M.S. Comes across a bit baked, syrupy and sweet on Peña Roble 2004 Crianza Te m - the nose, with a hint of stalkiness and stem. The 85 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $28. Prado Rey 2006 Crianza Ve n d i m i a palate has a lush early feel, but further inspection A heavy, briary wine that opens with a full blast of 87 Seleccionada Finca Va l d e l a y e g u a unveils a hollow core. Flavors veer toward earthy earthy compost and burnt leaves. The palate fea- Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero); $19. r a s p b e r r y, while the finish is chunky and properly tures pointed berry fruit along with a wall of oaky reflects what came before it. —M.S. coconut and vanilla. Creamy on the finish, at Jumps out of the chute with baked, earthy, funky least in terms of flavor, with lasting vanilla. aromas that are more savory and spicy than out- P e d r osa 2006 La Navilla (Ribera Imported by F.B. McDonald Imports. —M.S. right fruity. The palate has a good but limited del Duero); $NA. An assault of oak, mouthfeel, while the flavors of raspberry are spicy 86 vanilla and cigar box is the opening salvo, while Resalte 2007 Vendimia Selec- and saucy. Good in a subtle, earthy, nonfruity way. wave two and three bring raisiny aromas and cionada Tempranillo (Ribera del Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. 85 finally lemon peel. Chunky and tough in the Duero); $19. Smells a bit cheesy and sour at —M.S. mouth, with vanilla and resin running ahead of first, and soon after oak and mild berry fruit take acidic raspberry fruit. Finishes with a mix of over. On the palate, it’s dry, peppery and grabby, Prado Rey 2006 Elite Ve n d i m i a sauciness, tang, wood notes and candy. Imported with solid but common plum and raspberry fla- Seleccionada Tinta Fina (Ribera 87 by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.S. vors. Tomato notes and herbal flavors come up del Duero); $29. Dark purple in color, with a on the finish, but all together it’s a good but reg- jammy nose of berry fruit and coconut. The Recorba 2008 Tinto Te m p r a n i l l o ular Ribera wine. Imported by F.B. McDonald palate is concentrated, a little narrow and sharp 86 (Ribera del Duero); $10. Nice, sim- Imports. —M.S. in the center, with snappy, pointed cherry and ple and fruity, with nothing but standard rasp- berry flavors. Fruity but sheer wine, with dashes berry fruit and good mouthfeel up its sleeve. The Viña Mayor 2008 Tinto Roble of nutmeg and cocoa powder on the finish. palate is narrow and juicy, while the flavor profile 85 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero ) ; Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. rests on one level: raspberry. Clean and quick on $12. A simple but pleasant Ribera red with —M.S. the finish. Perfectly respectable for a $10 Ribera berry-cherry aromas. The palate has a staunch, wine. Imported by Testa Wines Of The World. tannic grab to it as well as flavors of raspberry, Prado Rey 2004 Reserva Te m - Best Buy. —M.S. black plum and earth. A wine that has o.k. length 87 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $25. and solidity to the finish. Imported by HAB Round and generally attractive, with raisiny rich- Emilio Moro 2007 Finca Resalso North America. —M.S. ness that emerges with airing. The palate is more 85 Tinto Fino (Ribera del Duero ) ; snappy and acidic than the nose might suggest, $15. Emilio Moro’s first foray into the land of Viñedos y Bodegas Garcia Figuero with herbal raspberry flavors. That same acidity value-priced wine is good but nothing special. 85 2008 Tinto Figuero 4 Tempranillo lifts the finish, and overall the wine is fresh, racy The nose is brambly and dusty, like the inside of (Ribera del Duero); $15. Rubber and bacon and not that complex. Imported by Monsieur a Topps baseball card package. Meanwhile, the aromas announce that this wine has some size, Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. palate is tight and lean, with cherry flavors infil- depth and concentration along with oak shadings, trated by dry oak. Overall it’s typical of a solid while the palate is fruity, acidic and tangy, with Rento 2002 Tempranillo (Ribera but average red wine. Imported by Fine Estates generic berry flavors and an added dose of oak- 87 del Duero); $60. Slightly dry and leafy From Spain. —M.S. driven bacon and rubber. Solid at first and then on the nose, but with beef jerky, cola and mild thin on the finish. Imported by Quintessential raisin aromas. The palate is forward, with con- Paramo de Corcos 2007 Ribera del Wines. —M.S. trolled heat and tannin along with cola, berry and 85 D u e ro; $13. Dark in color but a bit hot mushroom flavors. Honest in a traditional way, and clunky on the nose, where oak-based vanilla Alidis 2008 Tinto 6 Meses en Bar- with a long finish that shows a touch of sweet helps mask its true identity, which is choppy and 84 rica Tempranillo (Ribera del

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E Duero); $20. Sweet, candied, oaky aromas get Gazur 2007 Ribera del Duero; $20. Bodegas Farina 2007 Gran Cole- it going, and the palate, while tannic and tough, is 82 Stemmy, pickled aromas send the fruit 86 giata Barrica Tinta de To ro (To ro ) ; thin in its midsection. Flavors of vanilla and component to second fiddle. Tastes, smells and $12. A touch minty and dry smelling, with sim- marshmallow lead the way, yet the finish falls off feels like a wine that didn’t get fully ripe; the fla- ple, solid, slightly underdeveloped flavors. All in fast. Decent wine but shows a forced, candied, vors are thin and light, with tea and dilute berry. all, it’s hard to find much brightness in this wine; oaky personality. Imported by Hidalgo Imports, Finishes same as above. Imported by Vi n t u s instead it’s subdued and chocolaty, and it never LLC. —M.S. LLC. —M.S. really crosses the Rubicon of ripeness. That said, it goes down easy and doesn’t burn like many Melior 2007 6 Meses en Barrica Peña Roble 2007 Cosecha Te m - Toro wines. Imported by Specialty Cellars. 84 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero ) ; 82 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $15. $12. Minty-grassy top aromas indicate that the —M.S. Quite dilute, with gaseous, chemical aromas that wine, while endowed with decent berry charac- subside with time but never really leave. The ter, has an herbal side as well. In the mouth, it’s Pagos del Rey 2008 Bajoz Te m - palate is dry, mulchy and briney, and dig as you hard, lean and compact, with tart cherry/plum might, there is never much fruit to latch onto. 85 pranillo (Toro); $10. With good fruit flavors and a quick finish. Basic with a touch of Too thin, even for a cool year like 2007. Imported and controlled aromas, it does what young Toro sourness. Imported by Grape Expectations (CA). by F.B. McDonald Imports. —M.S. should when done well. Tight in the mouth, with —M.S. bold black cherry flavors, it bites down with young, big tannins, but it doesn’t burn or grate. Pedrosa 2007 Crianza (Ribera del T O R O 84 Duero); $NA. By no means is this the Shades of mint and chocolate help it along. best wine from Pedrosa; it has decent red berry Imported by Luneau USA Inc. Best Buy. Teso La Monja 2007 Alabaster aromas, but what you really get is minty, forward —M.S. Tinta de To ro (To ro) ; $250. oak. The palate has an acidic tang to it that sug- 94 M a k e gests medium ripeness, while flavors of cherry room in the cellar for this heavyweight! Ta l k El Curato 2008 Old Vines Tinta de about a monster wine; but there’s also finesse, tomatoes, herbs, vanilla and mint take you only so 83 To ro (To r o); $15. Hard and earthy, character and style to it. Alabaster is the top wine far. More barrel than substance here. Imported with black fruit aromas that are big but closed. by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.S. from the Eguren family’s new Toro winery, and The palate is short, stocky and blocky, with mam- i t ’s big, tannic and loaded with spice, molasses moth but basic flavors that turn rubbery. Not Prado Rey 2008 Roble Te m - and syrupy black fruit flavors. Rich, long and much of a finish to speak of. Imported by Grapes 84 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $13. fierce on the finish, with tannins and heat to Chunky and bold smelling, with bulky berry aro- resolve. Best from 2012 through 2020. Imported of Spain. —M.S. mas that are o.k. but not alluring or elevated. The by Fine Estates From Spain. Cellar Selection. mouth and flavors are more of the same; there’s —M.S. Telmo Rodríguez 2008 Dehesa tight, dark, tannic berry flavors along with toast 83 Gago (To r o); $18. D i s a p p o i n t i n g and burnt rubber late. Finishes with mild heat Teso La Monja 2007 Vi c t o r i n o given Telmo Rodriguez’s overall track record. and oak-based coconut notes. Imported by Mon- 93 Tinta de To ro (To ro); $71. This is the Dehesa Gago 2008 is jumpy, sweaty and stemmy sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. tier-two wine from the Egurens’ new Toro pro- smelling, with weedy, burnt, acrid flavors. Green, ject, and it’s stellar. Intense aromas of black fruit, hard and bitter on the back end, with a candied P r otos 2007 Roble Te m p r a n i l l o char and mint start it out, and next up come cola, sweetness. Try as we might, we can’t find the (Ribera del Duero); $15. Not bad for 84 roasted black fruit, clove and cured-meat flavors. higher level in this Toro red. Imported by Vintus a mass-produced wine. The nose has a distinct Oak is forward now, but it should settle in a year sweet, candied character that’s like marshmallow, LLC. —M.S. or so. A dynamite Toro to drink from 2011 and there’s also some burnt stem and bramble through 2018. Imported by Fine Estates From thrown into the mix. Tastes mildly pickled, Liberalia 2008 Tres Te m p r a n i l l o Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. stemmy and burnt, with grabby tannins on the 82 ( To r o); $18. Hard, leathery aromas, finish. 200,000 cases made. Imported by RV Dis- with an intense but exceedingly tannic palate. Teso La Monja 2007 Almirez Tinta tributors. —M.S. Killer bite and raspy, with bitterness and heat. 92 de To ro (To ro); $22. Teso la Monja is Has decent black fruit flavor but still it’s tough Viña Mayor 2003 Secreto Reserva the new Toro winery from the Eguren family of and unrefined. Imported by Vino Cava. —M.S. 83 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero ) ; Rioja fame (former owners of Numanthia-Te r m e s $30. Saucy and jammy initially, and then a in Toro), and it’s proof that no beat has been Pagos del Rey 2008 Caño Te m - raisiny quality takes over. Plump and thick in the missed since they sold out to Moët Hennessy. p r a n i l l o - G a r nacha (To ro); $9. L a c k s mouth, but ultra jammy in terms of mouthfeel. Expect dark, intense black fruit aromas and fla- 81 Syrupy and raisiny flavors run the game, and in vors mixed with heat, tannin, cola and spice. freshness; pickled and leathery, with heavy, bruis- the end it weighs in as an overripe wine from one Some oak creeps out on the finish, but overall this ing tannins. Dull, pounding flavors of plum and of the hottest vintages on record. Imported by is a lovely, bullish Toro. Drink now through 2014. prune are short and fierce. Rough country wine. HAB North America. —M.S. Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. Imported by Luneau USA Inc. —M.S.

W i n e M a g . c o m Vallobera 2006 Finca Va l l o b e r a fresh and tastes of ripe cherry, berry, vanilla and R I O J A 90 (Rioja); $32. An easygoing but nicely cream. Offers good clarity, power and depth made Rioja that delivers purity, good fruit, body given its price point. Imported by Quintessential R e m í r ez de Ganuza 2004 Old and feel. The nose is all cherry and berry, and it’s Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. 93 Vines Unfiltered (Rioja); $89. N i c e , a clear step up from your everyday red wine. The brawny and integrated, with sexy aromas of wild palate is medium bodied, with tasty, spicy flavors Sierra Cantabria 2007 Te m p r a n i l l o berry, dark plum, leather and earth. The palate of cherry and raspberry. Lasting on the finish, 87 (Rioja); $12. Fairly generous for a bar- has the right weight and tannic grab, while the with proper texture throughout. Imported by gain-priced, everyday Rioja. There’s bacon, rub- flavors of black fruit, fine herbs, cola and coffee Axial Wines USA. —M.S. ber, leather and mild oak on the fruity bouquet, are measured yet generous. Finishes with driving while the palate is concentrated, jumpy and hosts chocolate and vanilla flavors. Drink now through Baron De Ley 2007 Finca Monas- honest red berry fruit flavors along with dry oak 2016. Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. 88 terio Tempranillo (Rioja); $45. and a spot of vanilla. Meets any reasonable Cellar Selection. —M.S. Dense and spicy on the nose, with tobacco, expectation of what $12 Rioja should be. baked fruit aromas and dry, woody notes. It’s a Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. B e s t Agrícola Labastida 2004 El Belis- fairly rich, slick and generous Rioja with lightly Buy. —M.S. 91 ario Tempranillo (Rioja); $80. Seri- baked berry fruit flavors, spice cake accents and ous, stately Rioja with key aromas of prune, limited complexity. Solid on the finish, with addi- Sierra Cantabria 2007 Finca El blackberry and leather. Snappy enough on the tional spice notes. Drink now through 2013. 87 Bosque Tempranillo (Rioja); $163. palate, with plenty of pop as well as pure berry Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Not even El Bosque could escape the difficulties flavors, smooth tannins, zest and dry vanilla. —M.S. of the cool, extended 2007 vintage. While typi- Some might call it a bit acidic and traditional, but cally dark and bulky on the nose, it’s also dull by with food it’ll do great. Drink now through 2016. El Coto 2006 Crianza Tempranillo Bosque standards, with oaky mocha and coffee Only 250 cases made. Imported by Elite Wines (Rioja); $12. An oaky, modern-style 88 stepping in as filler. The body is drawn and tan- Import. —M.S. wine with a staunch mocha and vanilla influence, nic, with oak, resin and dark berry flavors. Fin- but the fruit is ripe and rich enough to handle it. ishes resiny as well. By no means bad, but given R e m í rez de Ganuza 2004 Fincas Spicy and grainy on the nose, with vanilla and Bosque’s precedent it’s not stellar. Imported by de Ganuza Reserva (Rioja); $48. resin seeping through. The palate remains woody 91 Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. Round, stylish and wholesome on the nose, with but is full of berry flavors, while the omnipresent wild berry, smoke, spice and not too much obvi- barrel influence carries onto the rich, ripe finish. Baron De Ley 2004 Reserva Tem- ous oak. The palate is racy and forward, but also Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. pranillo (Rioja); $26. Opens with offers subtleties including dry fruit, spice, fresh Best Buy. —M.S. 86 e a r t h y, slightly raisiny aromas along with mint, tomato and wild herbs such as thyme and sage. fresh grass and clay. The palate feels clanky and Long and warm on the finish, with vanilla. Drink Palacios Remondo 2006 La Mon- tannic, while the flavors of strawberry and herbal now through 2015. Imported by Fine Estates 88 tesa (Rioja); $20. Opens with rich raspberry are good but bland. Shows its share of From Spain. —M.S. aromas of raisin, licorice, black plum and good components, but overall the wine struggles molasses that put it on the cusp of overripe. The to distinguish itself among Rioja’s top performers. Viñedos y Bodegas Garcia Figuero palate is rich and gritty, with deep berry and 91 2005 Vendimia Seleccionada Te m- molasses flavors. Generous for sure, but also Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $59. D e n s e slightly baked and sweet. Tastes like a warm-cli- —M.S. and heavy, and maybe a touch dull on the nose in mate, warm-vintage wine. Drink now. Imported El Circulo 2008 Te m p r a n i l l o terms of fruit aromas. But once it hits the palate by Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. the wine shines with intense black fruit, sugar 86 (Rioja); $10. Nothing over the top but beet and chocolate flavors. The finish is toasty P a l a c i o s R e m o n d o 2 0 0 7 well made and clean, with red fruit aromas that and warm, with saturation and texture. Almost 87 P r opiedad (Rioja); $40. R a i s i n y, d o n ’t overpower. Flavors of peppy plum and over the edge as far as ripeness, but not quite. sweet and baked, with plenty of oak coming on as berry flavors come across bright and zesty. A Drink now through 2012. Imported by Quintes- it airs out. This vintage is somewhat syrupy and comfortable everyday red with with good follow- sential Wines. —M.S. strained compared to prior years, with baked through and no off aromas, flavors or textures. black fruit flavors. Seems a little reduced on the Imported by Félix Solís Avantis. Best Buy. Solabal 2006 Crianza (Rioja); $19. finish, but overall it’s still good given this winery’s —M.S. 90 Dry and smooth, with balsam and cedar strong track record and how the wine compares aromas wrapped around controlled fruit scents to other 2007 Riojas. Imported by Folio Fine Pa la c i o s R e mo n d o 2 00 8 L a and toast. The wine is ripe and balanced, with Wine Partners. —M.S. 86 Vendimia (Rioja); $15. Light rasp- hickory flavors adding a barbecued angle to the berry and plum aromas feature a side note of cit- steady palate. Firm, structured and tasting of Rivarey 2006 Crianza Tempranillo rus peel, while the flavors are pure but clove and woodspice on the finish. Drink now 87 (Rioja); $8. Nice for a standard, no- rudimentary dark berry, plum and herb. Good through 2011. Imported by Fine Estates From frills type of Rioja. The cherry and raspberry aro- body and structure, but not complex or layered. Spain. —M.S. mas are sweet and clean, while the palate is juicy, Finishes peppery and a touch bitter, with short-

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E lasting fruit. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Part- or pleasantries. Imported by Ole Imports. F r anc es c Sanc he z Bas 2002 ners. —M.S. —M.S. 89 Montsalvat (Priorat); $79. O p e n s with rooty, mature aromas of tobacco, baked Solar de Randez 2008 Te m p r a n i l l o Telmo Rodríguez 2008 LZ (Rioja); berry and raisin, while the palate is full and 86 (Rioja); $12. Shows some meat and 85 $18. Smells earthy, leathery and a bit roasted, with sweet baked-plum and brown sugar heft on the nose along with leather, rubber and gaseous before you get to a broad palate of flavors. Mature and ready to go, with head-to-toe black fruit. Solid and generic across the palate, stretched berry flavors, vanilla and herbal notes. sweetness and molasses accents. Not a hard, tan- with black cherry and berry flavors that are good There are good points here but also gaps in the nic wine. Drink now through 2012. Imported by and steady. Finishes slightly short and bitter, but wine, including a tomatoey quality to the flavor Winebow. —M.S. overall it’s a good wine for basic drinking. profile. Improves a bit with airing but still it Imported by Bon Vivant Imports. —M.S. struggles to make the grade. Imported by Vintus L l i c o rella Vins 2005 Gran Nasard LLC. —M.S. 86 (Priorat); $39. Dry and mildly herbal Soto de Torres 2007 Ibéricos Cri- on the nose, with an aromatic base of raspberry 86 anza Tempranillo (Rioja); $16. S i m- B a ron De Ley 2001 Gran Reserva and cherry. At 60% Garnacha and 40% Carignan, ple, fruity Rioja with mildly candied red berry 84 Cosecha (Rioja); $46. Woody and this is a standard Priorat blend with good intensity aromas that turn sweeter and more syrupy with dried out, with oak-based spice and burnt ele- and a slightly reduced mouthfeel. Flavors of baked airing. The palate is all zing and zap, with jumpy, ments on the bouquet. The palate is gritty and berry fruit are regular, while chocolaty warmth, fig mid-weight red berry and herbal flavors. Ditto acidic, with tart, limited, earthy cherry flavors. Not paste and molasses work the finish. Drink now. on the finish, which has a peppery quality. a disaster, but for a $46 wine from a great vintage Imported by Table 31 Imports. —M.S. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. it isn’t offering many reasons to explore it. La Ninota 2005 Priorat; $15. For a Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Priorat red, this is lean and snappy, with Agrícola Labastida 2007 El Pri- —M.S. 85 85 mavera Tempranillo (Rioja); $14. hot, stemmy aromas and light-bodied, racy fruit flavors. It’s a blend of six different grapes, and A mildly baked wine with a touch of raisin, brine I l u r ce 2008 Solnia Te m p r a n i l l o overall it comes across just well enough to be and stem on the nose. The palate is grabby, with (Rioja); $9. Dark, bulky and fairly oaky 84 worth a go. That said, it is kind of short and firm tannins and core flavors of cherry, black- for a wine of modest DNA. The palate is forceful, scratchy given its domain. Imported by Spanish berry and dry oak. Beyond that, there isn’t a juicy and high in acidity, while the flavors of Vines, Inc. —M.S. whole lot else on offer, and the fruit breaks up on grape juice and black plum are semisour, with the transition from palate to finish. Imported by leftover oak and vanilla dominating the finish. An Elite Wines Import. —M.S. average wine on its best day. Imported by Fine CAMPO DE BORJA Estates From Spain. —M.S. Beronia 2007 Tempranillo (Rioja); C a m e r on Hughes 2007 Lot 129 $14. 85 Strawberry and raspberry aromas Garnacha (Campo de Borja); $15. are a little stalky and stemmy, while the palate is 90 P R I O R AT / M O N T S A N T This is nothing more than a few barrels of wine entirely regular in feel, weight and flavor. Speak- bottled by Hughes, a so-called “global vintner.” ing of flavors, things run a little tart and herbal, Scala Dei 2005 Cartoixa (Priorat); And like its Lot 128 brother, it is really good $52. Deep purple in color, with roasted, while the finish has an acidic yet fresh zestiness. 91 juice. Inky and floral, with blueberry and wild rubbery aromas of wild blackberry. Thick, lush Midlevel in every way. Imported by San Fran- raspberry flavors. It’s smooth, fresh, bold and fin- cisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. and rich in the mouth, with mellow tannins (for a ishes with mint and chocolate. Shows the posi- Priorat wine) and big, broad flavors of plum, tives of Campo de Borja’s Garnacha. Imported Darien 2008 Tempranillo (Rioja); blackberry and herbs. Smooth on the finish, with by Cameron Hughes Wine. Best Buy. —M.S. 85 $12. A tutti-frutti nose leans toward black tea notes and leftover oak. Has a lot going candied cherry and red plum, while the palate is for it; drink now through 2012. Imported by Av e- C a m e r on Hughes 2007 Lot 128 lean, a touch shrill and tastes of lightly herbal red niu Brands, Inc. —M.S. 90 Garnacha (Campo de Borja); $15. fruits. Nothing heavy or weighty here; it’s a sim- A fuller, more minty and deep Garnacha than ple, perfectly good everyday Rioja with a hint of Agricola Falset -Marc a 2005 Hughes’ Lot 129. This has standup, standout aro- oak. Imported by Signature Imports. —M.S. 90 Castell de Falset (Montsant); $40. mas followed by deep berry fruit flavors. It has Ripe and attractive, with deep red fruit aromas. plenty of body but keeps its balance, and the fin- Exopto 2007 Horizonte de Exopto The palate is intense and thorough, with solid ish is thick and strong. A little rugged but really 85 Tempranillo (Rioja); $37. C o n - tannins supporting ripe, natural flavors of baked good by regional standards. Imported by densed, syrupy cherry aromas are a little candied, berries, particularly blackberry and dark plum. Cameron Hughes Wine. Best Buy. —M.S. while the palate is acidic and angular, with juicy, Subtle and smooth on the finish, with length. The tomatoey cherry and plum flavors. Fairly tight blend is 50% Garnacha and 25% each Carignan C a m e r on Hughes 2007 Lot 98 and lean in the mouth, with just enough oak to and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 87 (Campo de Borja); $10. Solid, big create a mocha/cocoa accent on the finish. For 2013. Imported by North American Beverage and fruity, which is basically what a Campo de the price, there isn’t much body, variety of flavor Group. —M.S. Borja Garnacha should be. Sweet red fruits and

W i n e M a g . c o m robust kick define the palate, which is tannic but Cabernet Sauvignon (Navarra); $13. Bell and pushing tons of runaway flavor. Not for those not obtrusively so. Zesty and a bit of a one-noter, pepper, green bean, green tobacco, tomato and who like restrained red wines. Imported by but a nice one. Garnacha with 30% Syrah and herb aromas carry the nose toward an acid-dom- Grapes of Spain. —M.S. 10% Mourvèdre. Imported by Cameron Hughes inated palate of tomato sauce and herbal fruit. Wine. Best Buy. —M.S. Finishes dry and herbal, and a little bit sour. Wi t h 25% Cabernet, this is a small step up from RIBEIRA SACRA Quo 2007 Old Vines Gre n a c h e E a r t h ’s 100% Tempranillo. Imported by Romero 86 (Campo de Borja); $17. Starts with & Miller, LLC. —M.S. Abadía da Cova 2006 Barrica hard aromas akin to nail polish and rubber 85 (Ribeira Sacra); $23. A rough, raw gloves. More typical and fruity in the mouth, but Ochoa 2001 Reserva (Navarra); wine from Galicia that starts with a swirl of hard it remains kind of lean despite being expansive in 83 $25. Leafy, dry and mature, with baked fruit aromas, heat and chemical. The palate is the mouth. Tastes like raspberry, with some fruit and aromas of dried oregano and basil jacked up with berry fruit, tannic bite and power, c a n d y. Gets better as it airs out. Imported by The flakes. The palate has grating tannins, while the and the finish is chewy and rugged. Packed with Artisan Collection. —M.S. flavors are greenish and herbal, with hints of color and flavor but also aggression. Definitely stewed berries and burnt grass. Grabby and not for everyone. Imported by Classic Wi n e s , stalky; not sure why this old three-grape blend is Inc. —M.S. N AVA R R A still on the market Imported by Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. Rectoral de Amandi 2008 Mencía Castillo de Monjardin 2007 Tin- 85 (Ribeira Sacra); $17. Pop the cork 84 tico Tempranillo (Navarra); $9. E a r t h 3 .0 2 0 0 8 M a d e W it h and look for a bulky Mencía from the little- Opens with dusty dry-fruit aromas along with 82 Organic Grapes Te m p r a n i l l o known region of Ribeira Sacra in Galicia. The weight and rubbery notes. The mouth is juicy (Navarra); $13. Excessive green bean, green wine has rubber, bacon and plum aromas, and and tannic, with tough but respectable plum and tobacco and grass on the nose put this into the then an enamel-like palate of black cherry and cherry flavors accented by firm tannins and “challenged” category. The palate is tart and herbs. Tough stuff, but unique. Imported by Vi n o herbal notes. Dry, quick and herbal on the finish. t o m a t o e y, with herbal raspberry flavors and a Cava. —M.S. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. leafy, green finish. Barely registers on the plea- sure meter. Imported by Romero & Miller, LLC. Fuga 2008 Mencía (Ribeira Sacra); Saenz-Olazabal 2004 Bolanda Cri- —M.S. 84 $12. Candied fruit and punch bowl aro- 84 anza (Navarra); $18. The opening mas are not what you’d call sophisticated, and runs a bit sour, tomatoey and stemmy, while the N o Ti m e 2 0 0 8 Te m p r a n i l l o the mouth pretty much follows suit with tart, palate offers darkness and weight along with 82 (Navarra); $11. Stemmy and green, rubbery raspberry fruit that comes on a bit hot s a v o r y, herbal flavors that come across earthy and with herbal, earthy aromas. The palate doesn’t and raw. Tough but with full flavor; sort of like burnt. Tastes as much like tomato paste and offer much besides acid, stemmy flavors and chewing on a plum skin. Imported by Classic herbs as it does berry fruit. Drink now or let it herbal notes, and there’s a spot of green bitter- Wines, Inc. —M.S. pass. Imported by Bon Vivant Imports. —M.S. ness to the finish. Not a lot going on here; accept- able at best. Imported by Grapes of Spain. Vega Sindoa 2008 Te m p r a n i l l o —M.S. C A S T I L L A 84 (Navarra); $8. Straightforward and clean, with simple cherry and plum aromas. The Yllera 2002 Vendimia Selec- palate is tart, juicy and a touch citric, with light- B I E R Z O 87 cionada 24 Meses en Barrica Te m- weight cherry skin flavors and a cleansing, fresh, pranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y somewhat acidic finish. Tangy and sharp, but not Paixar 2006 Mencía (Bierzo); $90. León); $27. For an old wine from a weak vin- bad for the price. Imported by Fine Estates 88 Having really liked this wine a couple of tage, this has its positives. For starters, the nose From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. years ago, this vintage seems comparatively fierce offers a nice mix of dried fruit, tobacco, cedar and aggressive, which isn’t to say it isn’t hugely and fig paste, while the palate is properly acidic Bodega del Romero 2000 Señor flavorful and aromatic. On the down side, it’s and tastes of red plum, raspberry and oak-driven 83 d e C a s c a n t e G r a n R e s e r v a residue-heavy and tannic, with full extraction and vanilla. At its drinking peak now; with preserved (Navarra); $NA. Fairly green, a bit oxidized tannic berry fruit. Tough as nails; maybe it just juiciness and lots of kick. Imported by Grupo and old smelling. The palate is short and choppy, needs a couple of years to settle. Imported by Yllera. —M.S. with hard leftover tannins and dry, herbal fruit Grapes of Spain. —M.S. flavors that push up against vegetal. Sweetness Tem pra Tan tr um 20 08 Te m - re-enters the picture on the finish, but overall L una Beberide 2008 Mencía 86 pranillo-Shiraz (Vino de la Tierra this is too dried up and strained to rate higher. 86 (Bierzo); $17. Dark as night, with de Castilla); $10. This seems like the best bet —M.S. prune and rubber on the nose along with murk among the Tempra Tantrum lineup. The nose has and compost. It’s extracted to the max, leaving a vibrancy and good fruit content, while the palate E a r t h 3 . 0 2 0 0 8 M a d e W i t h rubbery feel to go with supercharged boysen- is sizable and shows solid balance. Flavors of 83 Organic Grapes Te m p r a n i l l o - berry flavors. Gritty and forceful on the finish, cherry and red plum are good, and the finish has

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E some length. Imported by Underdog Wine Mer- Castilla); $11. B r i a r y, herbal aromas bring hints Gonzalez Byass NV Noe Viejo - chants. Best Buy. —M.S. of tomato sauce and burnt leaves to the game, 93 P e d r o Ximénez (Jerez); $45/375 while the palate is fairly innocuous in feel. Fla- ml. A wonderfully balanced and giving wine with Dominio de Eguren 2007 Codice vors of herbal berry fruit and beets are sweet and sweet raisin and prune aromas and an overall 85 Tinto Fino (Vino de la Tierra de strained, while the finish hints at green herbs and richness akin to crude oil. Flavors of baked black Castilla); $10. Dark in color, with aromas of dried leaves. Imported by WI, Inc. —M.S. plum, brown sugar and molasses are both juicy bacon fat, blackberry candy and vanilla. The body and rich, and then toffee and mocha take over on is medium to full, with grabby tannins that sup- the finish. Sweet and thick for sure, but with dis- port mildly medicinal blackberry and cherry fla- OTHER RED WINES cernible fruit and vitality. Imported by San Fran- vors. Finishes clean and regular, with no nasty cisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. residue or forced oak. Imported by Fine Estates Bodega Virgen de la Sierra 2007 L a B r u j o R o b l e G a r n a c h a From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. 86 Williams & Humbert NV Don (Calatayud); $15. Full, savory and beefy on the Guido Aged 20 Years Rare Old Tempr a Tantr um 2008 Te m - nose, with a snappy, juicy palate that’s flavorful 92 Sweet Pedro Ximénez (Jerez); $50. R i c h pranillo-Merlot (Vino de la Tierra and offers pretty good feel. Size is no issue with 85 and pruney, with bold, reduced black fruit aro- de Castilla); $10. A touch stalky on the nose, this wine, which gives you all the basics of red mas along with chocolate and spice. Compact but after that it gets things mostly right. The fruit wine while never once hinting at being more than and delicious in the mouth, with caramel, black aromas and flavors are subdued, with jammy it is. Imported by Bon Vivant Imports. —M.S. coffee and other yummy, unctuous flavors. So raspberry notes leading the way. There’s no overt burn or grating feel, and that’s good with inex- Volver 2007 Tempranillo (La Man- thick it pours like motor oil, thus feel free to pensive, niche-filling concept wines like this. 85 cha); $16. Dark, fiery, forceful and drink it like a wine or pour it on vanilla ice cream Fine if you’re expectations are modest. Imported woody, with aromas of sawdust atop black fruit. as you might a syrup. Imported by Kindred Spir- by Underdog Wine Merchants. Best Buy. — The palate is zesty, lively and hard, with biting its, Inc. —M.S. M.S. tannins raising up flavors of blackberry and pep- per. Acidic, rough and tough, but with good fla- Gonzalez Byass NV Cristina Bodegas Navarro López 2008 vors and a decent amount of integrity. Imported 91 O l o roso Abacado (Jerez); $18. A 84 Rojo Granrojo Te m p r a n i l l o - C a b e r- by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. smooth and coaxing Sherry with almond and dried net Sauvignon (Tierra de Castilla); $9. fruit aromas that lead perfectly to toffee and Smells like red licorice nibs and stemmy, candied Bodegas Navarro López 2007 Old almond flavors. There’s more dryness than fruit fruit, while the palate is medium bodied, reason- 84 Vines Crianza Tempranillo (Va l d e- here, with peanut brittle accents and then a long, ably well balanced and juicy, with berry and plum peñas); $13. Lean, dry aromas of cherry skins smoky finish that doesn’t lose focus. Graceful flavors. It darkens a bit on the finish, where and citrus lead to a competent but basic palate of Oloroso, with a nice individual character. chocolate notes enter the picture. Good for what raspberry and cherry flavors. Everything about Imported by San Francisco Wine Exchange. — is a very regular wine. Imported by Quintessen- this wine screams “regular,” from the tart red M.S. tial Wines. —M.S. fruit core to the tough but fresh mouthfeel to the edgy finish. Imported by Quintessential Wines. Gonzalez Byass NV Nectar Dulce Tempr a Tantr um 2008 Te m - —M.S. 91 Pedro Ximénez (Jerez); $18. Rich, p r a n i l l o - C a b e r net Sauvignon 84 dense and syrupy, but also showing touches of ( Vino de la Tierra de Castilla); $10. C a t c h y mint and leather on the nose. Quite sticky in the name but the wine is basic. The nose is lightly SPAIN mouth, but with lovely toffee and mocha flavors candied with a bit of green and brine. That pick- that set up a finish that runs on and on. Impres- led character translates to the palate, where fla- F O RT I F I E D sive depth of flavor, nice overall balance and a vors of cherry and berry are mildly briney. mix of complexity and flat-out richness make this Finishes similarly, with some reedy heat. W I N E S PX a winner. Imported by San Francisco Wine Imported by Underdog Wine Merchants. —M.S. SWEET SHERRIES Exchange. —M.S. Bodegas Navarro López 2008 Rojo Granrojo Tempranillo (Tierra Gonzalez Byass NV Matusalem Gonzalez Byass NV Solera 1847 83 O l o ros o Dulce Sherry (Jerez); $18. de Castilla); $9. Opens with a blast of hot, 93 O l o r oso Dulce Viejo (Jere z ) ; 91 basic red fruit that’s fiery and a little pickled. The $45/375 ml. Outstanding Sherry with complex- Another impressive Oloroso from Gonzalez palate is lean and acidic but doesn’t burn, while ity, richness and character. The nose has a salinic Byass. This is a sweet, dark, brooding Sherry with the cherry and red plum flavors are elementary. zest to it, making it no wallflower, and of course prune and other sweet fruit aromas. The palate is Inoffensive, highly regular red wine. Imported t h e r e ’s raisin and prune. The palate is formed, rich but has good flow, while dark flavors of dulce by Quintessential Wines. —M.S. sculpted and balanced, with peanut M&M’s de leche and burnt brown sugar are wonderful. c a n d y, roasted fruit, chocolate ice cream and Sweet but balanced by mild coffee-like bitterness Little Chica 2007 Old Vine Te m- more. A beauty with power and poise. Imported on the finish. Imported by San Francisco Wine 83 p r a n i l l o - G a r nacha (Tierra de by San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. Exchange. —M.S.

W i n e M a g . c o m Williams & Humbert NV Drysack integrity along with a flavor profile that hints at D’Arenberg 2007 The High Trellis 90 S o l er a Es p ec i al S w e e t O l d vinegar but settles on cidery apple and kumquat. 88 C a b e r net Sauvignon (McLare n O l o r osso Aged 15 Years (Jerez); $25. Nicely done and different from the mass wines Vale); $19. A fruit-forward nose belies the When in doubt, you can always trust Dry Sack. Freixenet is known for. Imported by Freixenet chewy tannins and more serious leather tones As always, this is a powerful, rich Sherry with USA. —M.S. that come through in the mouth. Acidity stands burnt sugar and heavily toasted coffee and out on the medium finish. Give it a year or two caramel flavors. It’s no softie courtesy of heat and Vega Barcelona NV Brut Reserva for better integration, then try with a grilled a c i d i t y, and at all points it mixes its sweet side 88 (Cava); $15. D u s t y, creamy, powdered steak. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. with tough, roasted intensity. Great for cigar sugar aromas are nice and easygoing, while the smokers. Imported by Kindred Spirits, Inc.. palate has balance and a mouthfeel that caresses Hill of Content 2005 Cabern e t —M.S. solid apple, citrus and peach flavors. Crisp on the 88 Sauvignon (South Australia); $15. finish, with a decent amount of elegance for a Distinctive for its understated, honest expression, Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Esno- $15 wine. Hard to go wrong with this bubbly. the 2005 Hill of Content Cabernet Sauvignon 88 bista Moscatel Pasa (Jerez); $20. Imported by Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. offers up classic blackberry fruit accented with A super sweet, potent brew that takes no prison- green pepper notes. The palate shows laser-like ers as it hits with powerful toffee, caramel and Sabartés NV Brut Reserva (Cava); a c i d i t y, springy tannins and winds up with gener- $18. alcohol aromas. Good in the mouth because it’s 87 Sweet smelling, with a touch of ous sweet fruit. A solid, sophisticated wine. Try not gritty, but very sweet on the palate, with p a s t r y. Focused, lean and nice in the mouth, with grilled steak. Drinking well now but will h o n e y, brown sugar and cinnamon flavors. If showing dry apple and citrus peel flavors. Solid improve over the next several years. Imported by sweet is your thing, then add a point or two to Cava that brings a modicum of leesy, pithy rich- Kobrand. Editors’ Choice. our score. Imported by CIV/USA. —M.S. ness on the finish. Imported by North American Beverage Group. —M.S. Kangarilla Road 2007 Cabern e t P e d r o Romero NV Extra Rich 88 Sauvignon (McLaren Vale); $23. Pedro Ximenez (Jerez); $30. Starts Sabartés NV Brut Nature Gran 88 Starts out fresh and fruity, with loads of rasp- out a bit sweaty and leathery, but soon it turns Reserva (Cava); $16. A p p l e s a u c e 86 b e r r y, boysenberry and strawberry fruit but turns more smoky. As a whole it’s more bulky and barn- aromas are open and inoffensive, and the palate a bit jammy in the mouth. Finishes on a lingering yardy than most PX wines, with sweet prune and is wet and refreshing, with crisp, dry green apple note of mixed berry pie. Drink now. Imported raisin flavors that seem a bit generic. Thick on and generic white fruit flavors. As a brut nature, by Click Wine Group. the finish, with a gooey sweetness throughout. it makes sense that the finish would be wet, lean Imported by Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. and taste like lime-infused soda water. Imported Penley Estate 2007 Phoenix by North American Beverage Group. —M.S. 88 C a b e r net Sauvignon (Coon- awarra); $20. D RY SHERRY Font I Jordana NV Reserva Brut Toned-down aromas of black- berry and mocha lead to a palate with a firm 82 (Cava); $20. Very strange from the structure of well-defined acidity and gripping Gonz alez Byass NV Alfonso start. Odd stuff, with a candied, spice-like set of tannins. The medium finish winds down to a note 89 O l o roso Seco (Jerez); $18. A dry, aromas that go straight to sweet, dull gumdrop of mulling spices. Likely to improve with a year oily, piquant Oloroso that’s more peanutty than flavors. Feels o.k. on the palate but tastes and a l m o n d y. The palate is racy due to no shortage of smells weird. Imported by Bon Vivant Imports. or two in the cellar. Imported by Old Bridge Cel- a c i d i t y, and the flavor profile is led by a salty, —M.S. lars. briney almond and leather character. Sheer and Bleasdale 2007 Mulberry Tre e serious, with not a sugar cube in sight. Imported C a b e rnet Sauvignon (Langhorn e by San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. AUSTRALIA 87 C reek); $18. Expressive yet balanced, with pro- RED WINES nounced cedar and cigar box scents that fold into SPAIN a tight palate of toffee, raspberry and blueberry CABERNET SAUVIGNON pie. There’s a lingering boysenberry note on the SPARKLING mouthwatering finish. Great choice for game in a Hugh Hamilton 2007 The Vi l l a i n fruit sauce. Drinking well now but will keep sev- WINES 89 C a b e r net Sauvignon (McLare n eral years. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. Vale); $20. T h e r e ’s definitely some horsey notes C AVA on the nose, but the decadent palate, with its Ballast Stone Estate Wines 2006 intoxicating blend of raspberry, loganberry and 81 Steeple Jack Cabernet Sauvignon Freixenet NV Elyssia Gran Cuvee cranberry, all couched in a sophisticated vanilla (South Australia); $7. While this wine isn’t 88 Brut (Cava); $18. Radiator dust, and coffee framework, takes the day. Medium- lacking concentration, its aromas are of stewed baked apple and other familiar, semirich aromas to-long finish shows grippy tannins. Drink now or and overcooked fruit and it turns a bit sharp on grace the nose on this more elevated Cava. In cellar several years. Imported by Hugh Hamilton the finish. No improvement with age. Imported the mouth, there’s chunkiness, weight and Wines. by Shaw Family Vintners (USA) Inc.

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E The plummy palate finishes dense and black. short finish. Drink up. Imported by Pernod G R E N A C H E Ideal with barbecue. Drink now or hold a few Ricard. years for better integration. Imported by Yangarra Estate Vi n e y a rd 2007 Trinchero Family Estates. 89 Old Vine Grenache (McLare n T E M P R A N I L L O Vale); $25. A great representative of Australian Beelgara 2007 Estate Range Shi- Grenache, with flavors of black fruit, road tar and 85 raz (South Eastern Australia); $9. Tar & Roses 2007 Te m p r a n i l l o raspberry liqueur fading to a palate of brambly Peppery and exotic, with a nose of elderflower 88 (Heathcote); $30. Earthy and seduc- fruit, all of which is couched in mocha and vanilla and lavender that draws you in to the glass. tive, with strawberry and espresso up front, fol- tones from toasty French oak. There’s a bit of There’s good intensity on the palate and an irre- lowed by a mouthwatering palate of pomegranate raspberry jam and a faint grip on the medium sistible raspberry juiciness. The finish isn’t too and black cherry fruit. Good tannin and acid finish. Drink now. Imported by Yangarra Estate long, but leaves a nice impression of coffee and structure. Drink now to 2013. Imported by Click Vineyard. mocha from toasty French oak. Great choice for Wine Group. short ribs. Drink now. Imported by The Yancey D ’ A renberg 2007 The Custodian Marketing Group. Best Buy. Nashwauk 2006 Te m p r a n i l l o 88 G renache (McLaren Vale); $19. O n 87 (McLaren Vale); $31. At 15.5% this the quiet side for a Grenache, with reticent notes Kilda 2008 Shiraz (South Eastern Tempranillo transplant packs a wallop; still, of spice, sangria and cassis. There’s the faintest 84 Australia); $9. The raspberry- t h e r e ’s quite a bit of wine supporting all that alco- grip of tannin and a crisp, strawberry-inflected inflected nose shows some farm aromas of hol, with intense flavors of cigar, mocha, cran- finish. Drink now. Imported by Old Bridge Cel- manure and horse sweat. There’s mixed berry berries and sweet black fruit. Tannins are tame lars. nose in the mouth and no tannin to speak of but abundant. Try with wild duck. Imported by while the short, ashy finish has a slightly dis- Epicurean Wines. Ross Estate 2006 Single Vineyard jointed note of acidity. Drink up. Imported by Old Vine Grenache (Barossa Val- 87 The Country Vintner. West Cape Howe 2008 Te m - ley); $25. Ripe and pretty, with vanilla, tropical 86 pranillo (Western Australia); $20. nuts and black tar scents and flavors of mixed Wyndham Estate 2007 Bin 555 Complex nose of sour cherries, orange pekoe, berry jam that carry over to the crisp finish. Shiraz (South Eastern Australia); 84 vanilla and black earth fades to a simpler palate T h e r e ’s no tannin to speak of, making this a good $8. A solid little wine, with a smoky black rasp- of black cherries underlined by a gravel note. It’s choice for lean pork dishes. Drink now. Imported berry and plum jam nose leading to a palate of full-bodied, juicy and mouthwatering; a good by Southern Starz, Inc. mixed berry pie accented with violet top notes. choice for roast suckling pig. Drink over the next Medium-bodied, with tame tannins. Hard to do year or two. Imported by The Country Vintner. R e i l l y ’s 200 7 O ld B us hv in e better at this price. Great choice to accompany 84 G r enache (Clare Valley); $17. steak from a charcoal grill. Drink up. Imported T h e r e ’s nice raspberry and pomegranate fruit by Pernod Ricard. Best Buy. BLENDED RED WINES here, along with some attractive bramble but it’s held back by a slight funkiness and confected Jindalee 2008 Circle Collection Primo Estate 2006 Il Briccone notes in the mouth. Short, spirity finish. Drink Shiraz (South Eastern Australia); 83 ( M c L a ren Vale); $24. This unusual up. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. $10. Your basic South Eastern Australia Shiraz 90 blend of Shiraz and Sangiovese strikes an appeal- here, with raspberry and black cherry aromas Ya l u m b a 2 0 0 8 B u s h V i n e that give way to a smooth palate with medium ing, earthy chord. It’s got plenty of plum, water- 83 G r enache (Barossa); $17. T h e acidity. Short, earthy finish. Drink up. Imported melon and strawberry fruit on top of a woodsy emphasis here is on the primary fruit, which by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. underpinning. Long, irresistible finish of vanilla takes on Kool-Aid tones on the nose before set- and chocolate. Brawny tannins argue for a steak tling in to a boysenberry and tree bark expression Cockatoo Ridge 2007 Shiraz accompaniment. Best 2011–2013. Imported by in the mouth. Short-to-medium finish of Asian 82 (South Australia); $11. This would USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice. spice. Try with barbecued ribs. Drink now. have turned out better with more delicate han- Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. dling. The fruit seems to have some potential but D ’ A r enberg 2006 The Sticks & it is drowned by a thick layer of oak that sits on 89 Stones Te m p r a n i l l o - G re n a c h e - T i n- top of the wine. The short, crisp finish has a saw- tacao-Souzao (McLaren Vale); $35. T h e S H I R A Z dust character. Imported by Total Beverage Solu- blend in this wine is as whimsical as the name, tion. with Tempranillo and Grenache alongside Por- Angove’s 2008 Nine Vines Shiraz- t u g a l ’s Tinta Cão and Souzão grapes. The result is 86 Viognier (South Australia); $12. Jacob’s Creek 2007 Shiraz (South an aggressive, powerful wine with a broad palette Although the oak treatment here is heavy- 82 Eastern Australia); $8. Not the stel- of aromas and flavors, ranging from vanilla, forest handed, with a blanket of vanilla and coconut lar value of prior years, the 2007 Jacob’s Creek floor and animal sweat to cigar, flint, blackberry weighing down the fruit, there’s enough fruit for shows low, earthy tones and a stingy amount of jam and coffee. Big, bold tannins. Better after some cherry and cassis notes to come through. fruit, though a touch of cassis pops up on the 2011. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars.

W i n e M a g . c o m Lake Breeze 2006 Bernoota Shi- Coates 2006 Consonance Syrah- the palate has some nice coconut flavor that is 89 r a z - C a b e r net Sauvignon (Lang- 87 C a b e r net (McLaren Vale); $29. hemmed in a bit by a note of model glue. The h o r ne Creek); $25. Bold and oaky, this Plum, raspberry and prune aromas are set against spicy finish ends with a soft kiss of tannin. Best to Shiraz-Cab blend starts out with notes of saw- lower tones of campfire smoke and earth while drink now, after giving it some air. Imported by dust but quickly turns to guava and roses, backed the juicy palate is wrapped in a coat of silky tan- Southern Starz, Inc. up by earth and cigar. The muscular tannins and nins. The short-to-medium finish turns almost sinewy acidity could use two to three years cel- tart at the end. Better after 2010. Imported by G reen Point 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- laring to integrate better. Imported by American USA Wine West. 86 gnon-Shiraz (Victoria); $14. Fresh Estates Wines, Inc. and straightforward, with earthy raspberry fruit Kurtz Family 2007 Seven Sleepers and grass scents followed by intense herbal- Creed of Barossa 2006 The Pretty 87 (Barossa Valley); $18. Fruit-forward spiked cherry liqueur flavors on the palate. With 88 Miss Shiraz-Cabernet Franc-Viog- and rich in texture, with vibrant mixed berry, its well-managed tannins, this is a good choice coconut and lavender flavors that linger smartly for lighter beef dishes, like pot roast. Imported nier (Barossa); $20. With 75% Shiraz, 22% on the crisp, medium-length finish. Best now to by Moët Hennessy USA. Cabernet Franc and 3% Vi o g n i e r, this wine 2012. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. stands out in a crowd. We get your expected Hewitson 2007 Dry Grown & plum and pepper notes from the Shiraz, but Longview 2007 Red Bucket Shi- A n c i e n t M i s s H a r r y G - S - M there are also elegant notes of cherry juice, pipe 86 87 r a z - C a b e r net Sauvignon (South ( B a r ossa); $24. A down-to-earth, unoaked tobacco and tomato leaf along with a surprisingly Australia); $15. This blend of 66% Shiraz and option, with raspberry and tree bark aromas fol- firm acidity given the high level of ripeness. 34% Cabernet Sauvignon has an appealing green lowed by a lush palate of cherry cola and ash. Tame tannins and leather notes come through on pepper edge that provides a lift to the intense Fans out on the finish, winding up on a bramble the finish. Drink now to 2013. Imported by berry and toast notes that float on a soft carpet of note. Drink now to 2011. Imported by USA Wi n e International Spirits & Wines, LLC. tannins. Solid length and definition. Drink now West. or hold a few years for more complexity. Penfolds 2007 Bin 138 Grenache- Imported by The Country Vintner. Pauletts 2005 Polish Hill River 88 Mourvèdre-Shiraz (Barossa); $27. 86 C a b e r net-Merlot (Clare Va l l e y ) ; A seductive wine, with a colorful nose of violets, Yalumba 2007 Hand Picked t/g/v $12. T h e r e ’s just a bit of Merlot mixed with the lavender and herbes de Provence layered over 87 (Barossa); $30. This unique blend of Cabernet Sauvignon here (18%) that likely con- black fruit. The Mourvèdre component shows 88% Tempranillo, 7% Grenache and 5% Vi o g- tributes to the herbal, woodsy aspect of the through on the palate with notes of horse sweat nier is fragrant (as expected) and a bit Pinot-like nose. It’s juicy and crisp, with sweet fruit and and a profound spice note. Medium, tasty finish in its intense aroma of cherry pie filling. It’s ele- firm but ripe tannins in the mouth. A solid of raspberry and coconut. Drink now to 2012. gant in the mouth, with soft tannins and a persis- value. Drink now. Imported by International Imported by Foster’s Wine Estates Americas. tent strawberry note on the medium finish. Try Spirits & Wines, LLC. with a bold fish preparation. Drink now. Penfolds 2007 Bin 2 Shiraz- Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. D ’ A r enberg 2008 The Stump 88 M o u r v è d re (South Australia); $15. 85 Jump G-S-M (South Australia); This blend seems to combine the best of the pop- Aramis 2007 Shiraz-Cabern e t $11. This Grenache-dominant blend opens with Sauvignon (McLaren Vale); $15. ular, fruity Shiraz with the more exotic, animal 86 a less-than-pleasant scent of paint thinner hiding T h e r e ’s good berry juiciness here and a nice behind more usual tones of spiced plums and Mourvèdre grape. The palate shows only faint smattering of nutmeg and cumin spice layered candied cherries. There’s nice raspberry fruit on tannin and a few undertones of vanilla and over a bed of tropical nuts. Only the barest hint the finish, buoyed by a sharp whack of acidity. coconut that glide through to the finish on a of tannin comes through on the medium finish. Drink now. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. streak of acidity. An ideal choice for smoked Drink now. Imported by USA Wine West. meats. Drink now to 2012. Imported by Foster’s Wirra Wirra 2007 Church Block Wine Estates Americas. Bleasdale 2006 The Bro a d - S i d e 85 C a b e r net Sauvignon-Shiraz-Mer- S h i r a z - C a b e r net Sauvignon lot (McLaren Vale); $20. Though a tad simple Cape Barren 2007 Native Goose 86 (Langhorne Creek); $14. Really pleasant in in the mouth, the nose has more than enough G-S-M (McLaren Vale); $26. T h i s 87 an understated style, this wine charms with its going on, with black tar, raspberry, rubber and blend of 45% Grenache, 43% Shiraz and 12% potpourri and cranberry scents and well-man- earth notes, all sheathed in toasty American oak. Mourvèdre has an enchanting, exotic quality. nered tannins. Lovely aftertaste of boysenberry The tannins are ripe but noticeable. Best now to T h e r e ’s a lovely interplay on the nose between and applesauce. Drink now. Imported by South- 2011. Imported by International Vines, Inc. high-toned cranberry and strawberry fruit that ern Starz, Inc. contrast nicely with lower tones of cigar tobacco Yangarra Estate Vi n e y a rd 2007 and black earth. Finishes with dried fruit, seared Bleasdale 2007 Broadside Shiraz- 85 Cadenzia G-S-M (McLaren Va l e ) ; game and ash tones. Drink now or hold several 86 C a b e r net Sauvignon (Langhorn e $25. This year’s version seems dominated by years for even more complexity. Imported by C reek); $14. This Cabernet-Shiraz blend offers oak, with sawdust and coconut dumbing down Click Wine Group. up mocha, espresso and humus on the nose while the berry flavors. There’s a brush of tannin and

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E gripping acidity on the medium finish alongside refreshing ginger tinge. Drink up. Imported by L o n g v i e w 2 0 0 8 B l u e C o w just a touch of raspberry flavor. Give it a year or The Country Vintner. 88 C h a r donnay (Adelaide); $20. A two in the cellar for better integration. Imported b u t t e r y, tropical interpretation, with ripe nec- by Yangarra Estate Vineyard. tarine and pineapple tones that glide through to AUSTRALIA the finish on a bright streak of acidity. Good Beelgara 2007 The Vines Shiraz- palate length despite slightly warm alcohol. Best 84 C a b e r net Sauvignon-Merlot WHITE WINES now to 2012. Imported by The Country Vintner. (South Eastern Australia); $8. A p p r o a c h- able and open-knit, this wine begins with cherry C H A R D O N N AY Hay Shed Hill 2008 Chard o n n a y pie aromas underpinning an herbal top note. The 87 ( M a r g a ret River); $25. An elegant vivid palate unfolds a generous array of berry fla- J a c o b ’s Creek 2005 Reeves Point wine that is appealing for its pure mineral expres- vors that slide into a raspberry finish. Drink now 90 C h a r donnay (South Australia); sion. There’s papaya and lemon fruit here, with a with barbecued ribs. Imported by The Ya n c e y $28. A few years of age have turned this South sophisticated caramel undertone that carries over Marketing Group. Best Buy. Australia Chardonnay into a highly nuanced tip- to the medium finish. Drink now or hold a few ple. Kerosene, hay and coconut aromas play off years for more nuance. Imported by The Coun- Friday Monkey 2006 Cabern e t - fragrant blood orange scents while the palate try Vintner. 84 Merlot (South Eastern Australia); offers up toast and caramel in a tight, well-defined $10. Ripe and broad, with guava and vanilla structure. Try with grilled salmon or serve on its TLC 2008 Chardonnay (Limestone overtones to the basic red fruit flavors. Only a own. Drinking at its peak now but will last a few 87 Coast); $16. An intriguing mix of faint echo of tannin on the soft, short-to-medium more years. Imported by Pernod Ricard. finish. Imported by American Wine Distributors. beeswax, fresh grain, wet wool and tropical fruit is the forerunner to a weighty palate of wild nuts, Frankland Estate 2006 Isolation lime and grapefruit. There’s just enough acidity Penley Estate 2007 Condor Shi- Ridge Vi n e y a r d Chard o n n a y r a z - C a b e r net Sauvignon (Coon- 89 here and a refreshing hit of lemon on the finish. 84 (Frankland River); $24. T h e r e ’s weight, awarra); $20. With 75% Shiraz and 25% Drink now. Imported by Calcareous Vi n e y a r d power and butteriness here but this wine is light Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s the Shiraz that has the LLC. on its feet, with fresh lime cordial and grapefruit aromatic upper hand, with singed meat, black peel notes and an intense, palate that’s just shy of and white pepper and rubber aromas coming Schild Estate 2008 Unwooded full-bodied. Long, vanilla-inflected finish. Drink through. Although there’s some nice strawberry Chardonnay (Barossa); $15. Bright now or stash away for 3–4 years for more com- 86 flavor and velvety tannins, this wine ends on a and aromatic, with intense tropical fruit and a plexity. Imported by USA Wine West. stewed note. Unlikely to improve with age. markedly full body. The luxurious texture seems Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. Leeuwin Estate 2007 Pre l u d e to be just the right vehicle for the exotic expres- 89 Vi n e y a rds Chardonnay (Margare t sion of guava, kiwi and mango fruit that carry Schild Estate 2008 Old Bush Vine over to the flavorful (if short) finish. Try with River); $36. Exotic and intriguing, with an G r e n a c h e - M a t a r o - S h i r a z grilled salmon. Drink now. Imported by The Aus- 84 intense apple, pear and beeswax character that ( B a ross a); $18. Attractive nose, with bramb- gives over to vanilla and caramel from toasty new tralia-New Zealand Wine Connection. ley, youthful fruit touched up with raspberry and oak. Winds up with a unique malted milk note. blackberry highlights. The palate of black ash and Tamburlaine 2006 Mark Davidson Really well done and original. Drink now to fruitcake slides into a sweetish finish showing 86 Sanctuary Farm Chard o n n a y some clipped candy notes. Drink up. Imported 2012. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. (South Eastern Australia); $11. Fresh apple by The Australia-New Zealand Wine Connection. F o n t y ’s Pool 2007 Single Vi n e y a rd and hay scents set the stage for a refreshing expression of citrus fruit on the creamy palate. Andrew Peace 2008 Peace Family 88 C h a r donnay (Pemberton); $15. This wine’s got decent acidity and pistachio, wal- 83 Vi n e y a rd Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvi- Lavishly oaked but with enough fruit concentra- g n o n - G re n a c h e - M a t a r o (South Eastern tion to bring fresh lime zest and green apple aro- nut and sour candy flavors that combine harmo- niously on the finish. Very tasty. Drink now. Australia); $10. This Shiraz blend lacks the mas to the front. Full-bodied, with a citrus Imported by Guardian of The Grape Imports. jammy aromas of many of its brethren, offering juiciness that trails off to a mineral edge. Drink instead white pepper and brambly red fruit. now. Imported by American Wine Distributors. Best Buy. T h e r e ’s good strawberry flavor here and not a breath of tannin. Suitable for flavorful fish dishes, Heggies Vi n e y a rd 2006 Reserve Woolundry Rd 2008 Chardonnay like tuna in a putanesca sauce. Drink up. 88 C h a r donnay (Eden Valley); $30. 86 (South Australia); $13. A subtle Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. Nutty and fresh, with youthful citrus fruit expression, with quince scents gaining the upper enveloped in a dense layer of caramel and vanilla hand over lime, peach and lanolin. The palate Pikes 2007 The Red Mullet (Clare from toasty oak treatment. There’s good density turns to caramel, vanilla and Asian spice while 82 Valley); $15. A gummy and overly here and a long, flavorful finish that ends on a some hints of stone fruit pop up on the short-to- earthy nose is a bit off-putting, though there is cashew note. Better after 2011. Imported by medium finish. Try with swordfish. Drink now. some juicy cassis fruit on the palate and a Negociants USA, Inc. Imported by American Estates Wines, Inc.

W i n e M a g . c o m G r een Point 2006 Chard o n n a y Vasse River 2007 Chard o n n a y Nick Faldo 2008 Selection Sauvi- 85 ( Yarra Valley); $16. M i n e r a l l y, under- 85 ( M a r g a ret River); $21. This white 84 gnon Blanc (Coonawarra); $14. A stated style with a nose of hay and semolina fol- will benefit from decanting to let some dusky mineral-propelled style, with scents of wet stones lowed by vanilla and pear on the tongue. Citrus aromas blow off and bring lovely pine and grass couched in a bed of quince paste and brioche notes stay lively on the short finish. Serve with a scents to the fore. There’s some good intensity toast. This is bone-dry and elegant, with a fleet- subtle fish such as cod. Drink now. Imported by in the mouth and green apple flavors that trail ing finish redolent of brown sugar. Try with a raw Moët Hennessy USA. off to a shortish finish. Drink now. Imported by shellfish platter. Drink now. Imported by Freix- Negociants USA, Inc. enet USA. Hugo 2008 Unwooded Chard o n- 85 nay (McLaren Vale); $18. Fresh and Larry Cherubino 2008 Ad Lib Hen Yellow Tail NV Sauvignon Blanc honest, this unoaked Chard has got a zingy lemon 84 & Chicken Oaked Chard o n n a y 84 (Australia-New Zealand); $8. Z i p p y theme that permeates nose, palate and finish. (Pemberton); $17. A good choice for fans of a and zesty, with scents of fresh lime, cut grass and Medium-bodied and crisp, an excellent choice generously oaked style, this is a weighty white passionfruit, this is a nose that’s firing on all cylin- for flounder in a lemon sauce. Drink now. with complex notes of caramel and vanilla that ders. There could be more intensity in the Imported by American Estates Wines, Inc. pick up a papaya undertone on the finish. To o mouth, but you’ll be too distracted by the pretty Plantagenet 2007 Chard o n n a y powerful for most fish dishes but fine with pine and crisp lemon notes to notice. A great cheese. Drink now to 2012. Imported by Vi n t a g e 85 ( G reat Southern); $21. The attack choice with light shellfish. Drink up. Imported has some funky notes but they dissipate quickly New World. by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. Best Buy. in favor of appealing lemon and quince fruit set against notes of walnuts and raw grain. It’s P l a n t a g e n e t 2 0 0 8 O m r a h creamy in the mouth, and finishes on a some- 83 Unoaked Chardonnay (We s t e r n S E M I L L O N what heavy butter note that hangs around just Australia); $15. Creamy and fruity, with peach, long enough. Drink now to 2011. Imported by apricot and guava character. Medium-bodied, Allandale 2007 Semillon (Hunter Old Bridge Cellars. with a faint spritz and a lemon zest finish that 89 Valley); $15. A thoroughly attractive drops off abruptly. Drink up. Imported by Old and refreshing wine, with refined scents of lano- Spring Seed Wine Co. 2008 Four Bridge Cellars. lin, grapefruit peel and raw quince unfolding 85 O’Clock Chardonnay (McLare n into a tightly wound, linear palate that’s pep- Vale); $16. A tame nose of cream and toast pered with fresh ginger notes. It’s strikingly crisp leads to a fairly weighty palate of butter and SAUVIGNON BLANC and bone dry but low in alcohol—just begging to apples that’s punctuated by attractive guava be drunk at a raw bar. Open now for its youthful notes. The nutty finish is just this side of Ta l t a r ni 2008 Sauvignon Blanc fruit or hold five years for more complexity and medium. Drink up. Imported by Epicurean 87 ( V ictoria); $13. Lean and tightly- softness. Imported by Total Beverage Solution. Wines. wound with aromas of green beans, kiwi and Editors’ Choice. grapefruit, followed by flavors of white flowers, The Wishing Tree 2008 Unoaked cumin and lemon. Finishes clean and green. Try Kaesler 2007 Old Vine Semillon Chardonnay (Western Australia); 85 with shrimp. Drink now. Imported by Clos Du 87 ( B a rossa Valley); $22. Exotic and $11. Fresh and lively, with lemon, fig and tan- Val Wine/Goelet Wine Estates. quite Asian in its expression, with yuzu, lemon- gerine scents that take on a lemon tone on the grass and Thai spices upfront, followed by lanolin palate. Crisp, shortish finish. Try with tuna steaks. A n g o v e ’s 2008 Vi n e y a r d Select and wax flavors that carry over to the crisp finish. Drink up. Imported by USA Wine West. 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Adelaide Hills); A good complement for mussels. Drinking well $17. High-toned yet refreshing, offering up now but will hold several years. Imported by Epi- Vasse Felix 2008 Chard o n n a y petroleum, cat pee and mineral scents before curean Wines. ( M a r g a ret River); $19. Bright and 85 releasing gooseberry and lime flavors in the l i m e y, with butterscotch notes punctuating the mouth. Light-bodied, with a slightly clipped fin- citrus fruit. The crisp palate is light-to-medium- ish of quince. Drink now. Imported by Tr i n c h e r o bodied and winds up on a fleeting mineral note. V I O G N I E R Try with halibut. Best now to 2011. Imported by Family Estates. Four Sisters 2008 Viognier (Cen- Negociants USA, Inc. Larry Cherubino 2008 Ad Lib 88 tral Victoria); $13. The nose here is 86 Straw Man Sauvignon Blanc on the subtle side for a Viognier, with tones of FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS (Pemberton); $17. An interesting combination macadamia and vanilla wafers. Meanwhile, the AND REVIEWS of lean cut grass aromas and riper tones of can- palate is vibrant and refreshing, with orange died apple and watermelon. There’s good inten- flower and musk accents, winding down to a sity in the mouth and lingering notes of passion limoncello finish. The lush texture of this wine b u y i n g g u i d e. w i n e m a g. c o m fruit and citrus on the medium finish. Drink up. suggests serving as an apéritif. Drink now. Imported by Vintage New World. Imported by Epic Wines. Best Buy.

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E Tahbilk 2006 Viognier (Nagambie bodied and offers an intense note of honeysuckle Felton Road 2008 Calvert Pinot 87 Lakes); $14. Now in its maturity, the on the short-to-medium finish. Drink now. 91 Noir (Central Otago); $65. T h e r e ’s a 2006 Tahbilk Viognier shows developed notes of Imported by USA Wine West. slightly floral, stemmy note to this wine, which roses, herbal tea and grain while still evincing a accents its bold, almost sweetly fruity nature. Red youthful expression of fresh pine needles. It’s Beach Head 2008 Sauvignon and black cherries mix on the attack, becoming concentrated, broad and viscous with a medium, 85 Blanc-Semillon (Margaret River); more spicy and savory toward the back of the hay-flavored finish. Drink now. Imported by $15. This wine marches to its own tune, with palate. Tannins are silky, while the finish picks Total Beverage Solution. scents of hay and Brie cheese followed by a up hints of mocha. Drink now–2015. Imported palate of cut grass and parchment paper. Short- by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. A n g o v e ’s 2008 Nine Vines Vi o g- to-medium finish winds up with a hit of acidity. nier (South Australia); $12. Exotic 86 Drink now. Imported by Margaret River Wines. Felton Road 2008 Cornish Point and decadent, with violets, spice, anise, clove and 91 Pinot Noir (Central Otago); $65. vanilla scents making for a complex opening. The Plantagenet 2008 Hazard Hill Supple but structured, this is only the third vin- palate is accented by tangy orange peel tones that Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc (West- tage for Felton Road’s Cornish Point Pinot and it shape the finish. Drink now. Imported by 85 ern Australia); $13. Classic Sauvignon Blanc is really starting to hit its stride. Touches of hick- Trinchero Family Estates. aromas of cut grass and asparagus are set against ory smoke and mocha accent the dark plum and savory fruit, finishing long, spicy and with a note O x f o r d Landing 2008 Vi o g n i e r a faint mineral background. It’s a bit simpler on of brown-sugar sweetness. Imported by Wilson (South Australia); $9. the palate but finishes with an invigorating lemon 85 There’s twice Daniels Ltd. —J.C. as much going on in the nose of this wine than edge. Drink up. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. anyone has a right to expect at this price. The Saint Clair 2008 Pioneer Block 4 Oxford Landing 2008 Viognier unfolds with 91 Sawcut Pinot Noir (Marlboro u g h ) ; heady scents of gardenia, honeysuckle and hys- NEW ZEALAND $27. The best of this year’s crop of Saint Clair sop that give way to a luxuriously textured palate Pinots is the Pioneer Block 4, which boasts dark imbued with tones of ripe papayas. A good part- RED WINES and mysterious aromas of damp earth and ripe ner for Asian food. Drink up in 2010. Imported plums. It’s full bodied and creamy in texture, by Negociants USA, Inc. Best Buy. PINOT NOIR with hints of mocha emerging on the supple fin- ish. Drink now–2015. Imported by Winesellers Yalumba 2008 The Y Series Viog- Felton Road 2008 Block 3 Pinot Ltd. —J.C. 84 nier (South Australia); $9. Pineap- 93 Noir (Central Otago); $80. In 2008, ple, tangerine and apricot aromas are ripe and the Block 3 tannins are so silky and refined they Stonecrop 2008 Pinot Noir (Mart- round while the broad palate offers up convinc- give a soft, luscious character to the wine that’s i n b o rou gh); $24. A terrific Pinot Noir ing honeysuckle and peach flavor. The finish incredibly appealing. Spice, black cherry and cola 91 value, Stonecrop’s 2008 exhibits smoky, cedary shows complex perfume but is also a bit rasping. notes finish long and complex. Drink now–2015. aromas, but balances the oak with a solid founda- Drink now. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. tion of cherry fruit and savory, mushroomy com- plexity. It’s full bodied yet elegant, with a meaty Valli 2008 Bannockburn Vineyard finish. Drink now–2013. Imported by Fruit of BLENDED WHITE WINES Pinot Noir (Central Otago); $55. 92 the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. My favorite of Grant Ta y l o r ’s 2008s, the Ban- Rolling 2007 Sauvignon Blanc- nockburn bottling displays elegant lacings of Valli 2008 Waitaki Vineyard Pinot Semillon (Central Ranges); $10. A 87 vanilla and cinnamon over black cherries, then fabulous value in the under-appreciated Semil- 91 Noir (Central Otago); $55. Intrigu- adds subtle meaty and herbal nuances. It’s lon-Sauvignon Blanc category, this spicy white is ingly floral and savory upfront, this delicate wine medium bodied and supple in texture, with a lively, fresh and highly perfumed, with notes of then adds a deep base of ripe cherries that long, silky finish. Drink now–2015. Imported by tangerine and orchids that give way a medium- expand effortlessly across the palate, giving an RO Imports LLC. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. bodied palate redolent of orange flower. There’s impression of fullness without weight, suppleness well-defined acidity and citrus notes on the dry without being soft. Finishes long, with a great Dry River 2007 Pinot Noir (Mart- finish, suggesting a complement of lighter fish deal of complexity. Imported by RO Imports i n b o rough); $90. Dry River’s 2007 dishes. Drink up. Imported by Lion Nathan 91 LLC. —J.C. USA, Inc. Best Buy. Pinot Noir reveals a slight herbal tinge to its dark fruit aromas and flavors, but it’s a nuance that Valli 2008 Gibbston Vi n e y a r d Primo Estate 2008 La Biondina adds complexity and should develop into hints of 91 Pinot Noir (Central Otago); $55. 86 ( M c L a ren Vale); $19. This unusual tea and spice with additional bottle age. As Gibbston is the coolest of Central Otago’s subre- blend of Colombard and Sauvignon Blanc really always, it’s not overly big or richly textured, but it gions, and this wine reflects that in its delicate works. There’s well-defined acidity and an is concentrated and intense. Drink 2012–2020. floral and herbal notes, even a touch of rhubarb. intense tropical flower character that floats over a Imported by RO Imports LLC. Cellar Selec- But there’s also ample cherry fruit and a wonder- base of orange blossom and citrus fruit. It’s light- tion. —J.C. fully lacy, silky texture. Long and crisp on the fin-

W i n e M a g . c o m ish. Best from 2012–2018. Imported by RO Central Otago notes of plummy fruit mixed with ripe black cherries upfront and all the way Imports LLC. —J.C. hints of beets and beet greens. Shows plenty of through the long finish—the only thing this wine concentration and length on the mouthwatering really needs is more complexity. Pretty good Escarpment 2008 Pahi Single finish. Good value. Imported by South Pacific value. Imported by Goldschmidt Vineyards. 90 Vi n e y a rd Pinot Noir (Martinbor- Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. —J.C. ough); $55. One of the interesting things about Larry McKenna’s 2008 Pinots is that they show Escarpment 2008 Over the Edge Dashwood 2008 Pinot Noir (Marl- differently every time I taste them. So these 89 Pinot Noir (Martinborough); $15. 87 borough); $18. This is a pretty, deli- reviews are composites of the 2–3 times I’ve tried At less than one-third the price of Escarpment’s cately perfumed Pinot Noir, with elegantly each one. The Pahi shows big bold fruit but also single-vineyard wines, this is a great Pinot Noir intertwined cherry and herb notes. It’s light to touches of mineral, herb and subtle spice, while value. Ripe cherries and plums make a full medium in body, with a finish that shows just a the finish is long and savory. Imported by Mead- impression on the palate, and while the flavors touch of sinewy intensity. Drink it over the next owbank Estates. —J.C. could use a touch more complexity, the wine year or so. Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. offers a big mouthful of authentic Pinot Noir. —J.C. Felton Road 2008 Pinot Noir (Cen- Imported by Meadowbank Estates. E d i t o r s ’ 90 tral Otago); $55. Felton Road’s non- Choice. —J.C. Grove Mill 2008 Pinot Noir (Marl- designated Pinot boasts complex aromas of 87 borough); $22. Some slightly smoky, coffee, beetroot, vanilla, cinnamon, cherries and Escarpment 2008 Te Rehua Pinot barrel-char aromas are subtle enough to allow fresh herbs, delivered by a firmly structured, 89 Noir (Martinborough); $55. A n rose-petal notes to slip through, backed by rather muscular Pinot Noir that appears to need a intense, powerful Pinot, with dark coffee, cedar assertive flavors of cherries and toasty oak. This is couple of years to settle down. Try it from and plum notes balanced by hints of red raspber- a fairly full-bodied, spicy Pinot that pleases 2011–2018. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. ries. The texture is dense and plush, and the wine upfront before quickly slipping away. Imported —J.C. finishes warm and velvety, with a savory lick of oak by Palm Bay International. —J.C. spice. Imported by Meadowbank Estates. —J.C. Saint Clair 2008 Pioneer Block 16 Matua Valley 2008 Estate Series 90 Aw a t e r e Pinot Noir (Marlbor- Escarpment 2008 Kiwa Pinot Noir 87 Pinot Noir (Central Otago); $24. ough); $27. Despite a challenging season, Saint 89 ( M a r t i n b o rough ); $55. Big and pow- This medium-weight, supple Pinot Noir is a bit Clair’s 2008 Block 16 turned out just fine, with erful without going completely over the edge, the oak-driven, but still attractive. Fleshy dark dusty black cherries accented by earth and spice 2008 Kiwa is a dark-fruited wine with hints of cherry fruit is framed by scents of coffee and complexities. It’s medium bodied, with silky tan- dried fruit and Christmas spices. It’s full bodied, vanilla, finishing with more of the same. Drink nins and a supple finish. Drink it over the next rich and almost chewy in texture, yet finishes now–2011. Imported by Foster’s Wine Estates few years. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. E d i t o r s ’ fresh and long. Imported by Meadowbank Americas. —J.C. Choice. —J.C. Estates. —J.C. Mohua 2008 Pinot Noir (Central Te Kairanga 2008 Estate Pinot Spy Valley 2008 Pinot Noir (Marl- 87 Otago); $20. This is a pretty, elegant 90 Noir (Martinborough); $15. A 89 borough); $30. Spy Valley is turning rendition of Central Otago Pinot Noir, with deli- super value in Pinot Noir, just so long as you out consistently good wines across the range, and cate cherry and herbal notes on the nose and a d o n ’t expect a bright, berry-scented wine. This is the 2008 Pinot Noir is a notable achievement in palate that adds hints of coffee and chocolate to a dark, mysteriously earthy and herbal Pinot, the context of the vintage. It’s plump and silky in the mix. Finishes crisp and tangy. Drink over the with savory, spicy elements backed by dark fruit the mouth, with bright cherry fruit accented by next 6–12 months. Imported by Vineyard Brands. and a long, dusty finish. Drink it now and over subtle vanilla and spice. Drink it over the next —J.C. the next few years. Imported by Liquid Brands couple of years. Imported by Broadbent Selec- LLC. Best Buy. —J.C. tions, Inc. —J.C. Villa Maria 2008 Private Bin Pinot 87 Noir (Marlborough); $20. A very Alana Estate 2008 Single Vi n e - Nautilus 2003 Aw a t e r e River good Pinot Noir at a realistic price, Villa Maria’s 89 yard Pinot Noir (Martinborough); 88 Vi n e y a r d Pinot Noir (Marlbor- 2008 Private Bin offers solid cherry fruit and $50. The 2008 Alana Estate Pinot boasts a per- ough); $40. Full bodied but not lacking charm, touches of barrel char and beet root. The texture fumed bouquet that includes elements of rose this Pinot from the Awatere subsection of Marl- is silky, the finish reasonably long. Drink it over petals and sandalwood to accent savory and borough blends cherry fruit with earthy, mush- the next year or so. Imported by Ste. Michelle black-cherry notes. The silky texture is also spot roomy scents of black truffles. Seriously long on Wine Estates. —J.C. on; one just wishes for a little more flavor inten- the finish; drink now. Imported by Negociants sity and length. Drink it over the next few years. USA, Inc. —J.C. Jackson Estate 2008 Vintage Win- Imported by USA Wine West. —J.C. 86 dow Pinot Noir (Marlboro u g h ) ; Nick Goldschmidt 2008 Boulder $32. Production (and pricing) of this wine have C r own Range 2008 Pinot Noir 88 Bank Pinot Noir (Marlboro u g h ) ; moved up considerably since 2005, when it rep- 89 (Central Otago); $20. Round and $20. This is a medium- to full-bodied Pinot with resented a pretty good value at $23. The 2008 mouthfilling, this Pinot Noir delivers authentic plenty of concentration and ripeness. You get shows plenty of concentration, herbal overtones,

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E slightly jammy, berry-like fruit and lashings of Stoneleigh 2008 Pinot Noir (Marl- Dry River 2006 Lovat Vi n e y a r d coffee and chocolate. Drink it over the next 12 85 borough); $16. Not quite as enticing 89 Amaranth Syrah (Martinbor- months or so. Imported by Avanti Fine Wi n e as the 2007, Stoneleigh’s 2008 Pinot Noir offers ough); $75. NZ Syrahs are often called Rhône- Selections. —J.C. up some herbal, tomato-like aromas, combines like, but while this one does show some lovely them with roasted cherry-plum fruit, then fin- floral and hickory-smoke nuances, it also comes Staete Landt 2008 Map Maker ishes with a flourish of mocha oak. Drink now. across as slightly raisiny or jammy, with cassis 86 Pinot Noir (Central Otago); $30. Imported by Pernod Ricard. —J.C. notes that even lean toward being chocolaty. This wine starts off with bold fruit-driven aromas Whatever you think of the aromas and flavors, of plums and black cherries, but there’s just the Sherwood Estate 2008 Pinot Noir it’s a richly concentrated, velvety textured wine merest hint of dried fruit as well, and that con- 84 ( M a r l b o rough); $18. A light, fresh with plenty to recommend it. Imported by RO tinues on the palate. It’s ripe and round, but ulti- rendering of Pinot Noir, with modest pomegranate Imports LLC. —J.C. mately a bit bulky, ending with a touch of and button-mushroom aromas and flavors. Drink espresso. Imported by RO Imports LLC. —J.C. n o w. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C. Te Mata 2008 Bullnose Syrah 88 ( H a w k e ’s Bay); $NA. This bright, The Crossings 2008 Pinot Noir Saint Clair 2008 Vi c a r ’s Choice cherry-laden Syrah features a fairly strong pep- ( M a r l b o rou gh); $19. In contrast to 86 Pinot Noir (Marlborough); $16. pery component, but otherwise doesn’t show that previous vintages, The Crossing’s 2008 Pinot 80 Shows just how difficult 2008 was for Marlbor- much in the way of complexity. It’s endowed with Noir seems a little herbal and even tomato-like at ough Pinot Noir, with even this normally reliable soft tannins and a forward, round style that first, but then some delicate cherry fruit emerges makes it easy to drink over the near term. on the palate of this lightweight offering, finish- producer stumbling at the low end. Roasted —J.C. ing with lingering tartness. Imported by W. J . tomatoes and herbs finish tart and thin. Imported by Winesellers Ltd.. —J.C. Deutsch & Sons. —J.C. Mudbrick 2008 Reserve Syrah ( W aiheke Island); $NA. S m o k y, Wild Earth 2008 Pinot Noir (Cen- 87 cedary and, frankly, a bit dominated by oak. It’s tral Otago); $30. Pretty oaky stuff, S Y R A H 86 nice oak, and the fruit is rich in body and thick in with scents of freshly sawn cedar leading the way. texture, just slightly muted. Perhaps an additional There is a pleasant creaminess to the texture and Bilancia 2008 Syrah-Vi o g n i e r year or two of cellaring will see the oak integrate the cranberry fruit does come through on the fin- 90 (Hawke’s Bay); $NA. Bilancia is the more and the fruit come forward. —J.C. ish, so there are things to like besides the barrel private label of Warren Gibson, winemaker for treatment. Imported by San Francisco Wi n e Trinity Hill, and his partner, Lorraine Leheny. Coopers Creek 2008 SV Chalk Hill Exchange. —J.C. The 2008 Syrah-Viognier is a medium-bodied, Syrah (Hawke’s Bay); $NA. T h i s crisp but very pretty wine, featuring maraschino 85 wine features toasty, cedary elements over cherry Brancott 2008 Terraces T Pinot cherries and citrus blossoms, with just a fine fruit, with some distinctly earthy notes that pro- 85 Noir (Marlborough); $32. As Bran- thread of tannin on the finish. Imported by Vine vide depth and interest. —J.C. c o t t ’s top Pinot Noir offering, this is a bit of a dis- Street Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. appointment. The fruit is jammy and berry-like, framed by ample vanilla and caramel. It’s a satis- Church Road 2008 Reserve Syrah H AWKE’S BAY REDS fying, medium-bodied mouthful of oaked red, it 90 (Hawke’s Bay); $NA. New Zealand’s just doesn’t show the degree of savory complexity largest wine company is still capable of turning Te Mata 2007 Coleraine (Hawke’s expected at this level. Imported by Pernod out exciting, innovative wines from its boutique Bay); $NA. Ricard. —J.C. 93 Simply put, this is one of properties, like this example from Church Road. New Zealand’s flagship reds, and it is a shame it is Bold cherry and stone-fruit flavors are accented Staete Landt 2008 Estate Grown no longer being imported to the U.S. Lifted hints by just a touch of peppery spice, but there’s Pinot Noir (Marlborough); $55. of dried flowers and herbs impart great complex- 85 plenty of volume in the mouth and dark cherries Staete Landt’s Marlborough Pinot Noir stands ity to the aromas, and the wine’s cassis, cedar and on the silky finish. Drink now–2015. Not out for its leather, cedar and spice notes. Cinna- chocolate flavors come across as intense without imported. —J.C. mon, clove and vanilla accent modest cherry fruit being overbearing. This is firmly structured, with in this medium-bodied offering, ending with plentiful but fine tannins. Drink 2015–2025. C e l- Craggy Range 2008 Gimblett more cedar and vanilla. Imported by RO Imports lar Selection. —J.C. Gravels Vineyard Syrah (Hawke’s LLC. —J.C. 89 Bay); $NA. Le Sol’s little brother isn’t yet avail- Craggy Range 2007 Sophia Gim- able in the U.S., but it offers a decent introduc- 92 blett Gravels (Hawke’s Bay); $50. FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS tion to the Craggy Range style of Syrah. Brandied The bulkiness that characterized earlier vintages AND REVIEWS cherries, complete with cinnamon and nutmeg of this Merlot-based blend has been tamed in are big and extracted; muscular yet not overdone, this vintage, and the 2007 is a remarkably harmo- turning silky and mouthwatering on the finish. nious, elegant blend of ripe cherries, dried b u y i n g g u i d e. w i n e m a g. c o m Imported by Kobrand. —J.C. spices, chocolate and cedar. Supple tannins fade

W i n e M a g . c o m gracefully on the finish. Drink now–2018. Old Olive Block shows crisp plum fruit with Imported by Kobrand. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. chocolate and cedar overtones. Soft, dusty tan- NEW ZEALAND nins fade gracefully on the finish. Drink Ngatarawa 2007 Alwyn Merlot- WHITE WINES now–2017. Imported by Meadowbank Estates. 92 C a b e r net (Hawke’s Bay); $NA. T h e top wine from Ngatarawa isn’t available in the —J.C. G E W Ü R Z T R A M I N E R U.S., but it is a benchmark Bordeaux-styled blend from Hawkes Bay. The chocolate, cedar Matariki 2007 Reserve Cabern e t Dry River 2008 Lovat Vi n e y a r d and plum flavors are carried by a big, expansive 89 Sauvignon (Hawke’s Bay); $NA. 90 Gewürztraminer (Martinbor- ough); $45. mouthfeel, and the intensity and length are world Matariki’s Reserve Cab boasts true varietal notes This vintage of Dry River’s Gewürz class. Drink 2012–2020. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. is almost tropical in style, with mango and of mint and cassis upfront, then turns intense and pineapple elements accented by gingery spice Trinity Hill 2007 The Gimblett chocolaty on the palate. There’s a hint of cap- and a dash of white pepper. It’s off dry in style, 92 ( H a w k e ’s Bay); $NA. Lifted cherry sicum, but it’s largely hidden by bold lashings of with plenty of body without being at all blowsy. and floral aromatics carry with them a hint of oak. Could age decently, but there’s no real rea- Drink it over the next few years. Imported by barrel char in this medium-bodied, elegantly son to defer gratification. Imported by Pasternak RO Imports LLC. —J.C. styled blend of 51% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Wine Imports. —J.C. Sauvignon, 12% Petit Verdot, 11% Cabernet Spy Valley 2009 Gewürztraminer Franc and 9% Malbec. It’s admirably supple and ( M a r l b o r ough); $21. Buoyed by Dry River 2006 Te Awa Merlot 89 harmonious from start to finish. Drink assertive lychee and spice notes, this is a bold, now–2015. Imported by Via Pacifica Imports. 88 ( H a w k e ’s Bay); $45. From specific aromatic wine made in an off-dry style. It’s full Editors’ Choice. —J.C. rows of the Te Awa estate farmed to Dry River’s bodied on the palate, with a long, spice-driven exacting specifications, this is a concentrated finish. Drink over the next 6–9 months. Imported C h u rch Road 2007 Reserve Caber- Merlot that offers black cherry, mocha and by Broadbent Selections, Inc. —J.C. net-Merlot (Hawke’s Bay); $NA. 90 leather notes. The acids are crisp, the tannins Part of Pernod Ricard New Zealand, Church Spy Valley 2007 Envoy Gewürz- Road is a historic property dating back to the end firm, so give it a few years in the cellar to soften. 87 traminer (Marlborough); $NA. S p y of the 19th century, so it is a shame that the Imported by RO Imports LLC. —J.C. Va l l e y ’s 2007 Envoy Gewürztraminer is a lush, wines are not available in the U.S. The 2007 slightly sweet rendering of the variety, filled with Reserve Cabernet Merlot features delicate scents CJ Pask 2007 Declaration Merlot peach, melon and spice. Finishes soft, with a of dried herbs and tea leaves allied to bold cassis 87 ( H a w k e ’s Bay); $NA. A medium- touch of white pepper. Drink now. Imported by and cherry fruit. It’s firm and slightly drying on Broadbent Selections, Inc. —J.C. bodied Merlot with solid plum and mocha vari- the finish; give it until 2015 to come into its own. Cellar Selection. —J.C. etal characteristics, the 2007 CJ Pask Declaration Spy Valley 2007 Gewürztraminer is a firm, slightly crisp wine, with background 86 ( M a r l b o r ough); $21. This wine’s S a c r ed Hill 2007 Bro k e n s t o n e notes of clove and cinnamon. Imported by Indigo muted aromatics and lack of texture vividly illus- 90 Merlot (Hawke’s Bay); $NA. Yo u t h- Wine Group. —J.C. trate why the Spy Valley Gewürzes should be fully bold, fruit-forward and slightly jammy, consumed in their first flush of youth. It’s still a Sacred Hill’s flagship Merlot offers bright cher- Newton Forrest Estate 2007 Cor- solid offering, with pear-like fruit and a touch of ries, but avoids being a one-trick pony by folding spice, but nothing like the flamboyant 2009. nerstone Cabern e t - M e r l o t - M a l - in subtle tea-leaf complexities and wonderfully 87 Drink up. Imported by Broadbent Selections, silky tannins. Drink now–2017. —J.C. bec (Hawke’s Bay); $NA. Bright cherries lead Inc. —J.C. the way in this slightly coarse-textured wine that Villa Maria 2007 Reserve Caber- turns rather astringent on the finish. It’s meant to Lawson’s Dry Hills 2008 Gewürz- net Sauvignon-Merlot (Hawke’s traminer (Marlborough); $19. 90 be aged, and may come into better harmony by 84 A Bay); $NA. The lifted nose of herbs and tea disappointing effort from a usually reliable 2014 or so, because there is admirable concen- gives an extra shot of complexity to this concen- source of Marlborough Gewürztraminer, the trated wine. Intense cherry and cassis fruit ends tration. Imported by The Australia-New Zealand 2008 offers ample pineapple and lychee fruit, but in a long finish that blends drying tannins with Wine Connection. Cellar Selection. —J.C. lacks a bit of texture and length, finishing with mouthwatering acids. Best from 2014–2020. only modest spice. Imported by The Country Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Cellar Mission Estate 2007 Reserve Vintner. —J.C. Selection. —J.C. 85 C a b e r net Sauvignon (Hawke’s Bay); $NA. Seems like a window into earlier Clearview 2007 Old Olive Block PINOT GRIS days in Hawkes Bay, with pronounced green 89 ( H a w k e ’s Bay); $NA. Roughly half Cabernet Sauvignon, one-fourth Cab Franc and olive notes framed by lots of tobacco and hints of Dry River 2008 Pinot Gris (Martin- the rest a blend of Merlot and Malbec, the 2007 soy and cedar. Drink now–2015. —J.C. 90 b o r ough); $55. Dry River’s 2008

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E Pinot Gris is a lush, creamy-textured off-dry wine Nautilus 2008 Pinot Gris (Marl- melon and pear flavors that somehow never seem that pairs bold fruit elements of pear and melon 87 b o rough); $19. Virtually dry, the 2008 cloying, instead remaining harmonious through with hints of peach leaf and gingery spice. Long Nautilus Pinot Gris is also lighter and leaner than the finish. Drink now. Imported by San Fran- on the finish, with absolutely no trace of bitter- many of its competitors. Pineapple and melon cisco Wine Exchange. —J.C. ness. Drink now–2015. Imported by RO Imports aromas and flavors finish crisply, buoyed by a LLC. —J.C. dash of white pepper. Drink now–2011. Lobster Reef 2008 Pinot Gris Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. 84 ( M a r l b o rough) ; $10. This medium- Kawarau Estate 2008 Vi n e y a rd bodied Pinot Gris turns a bit skinny on the finish, 90 Res erve Pinot Gris (Central Omaka Springs 2009 Pinot Gris but offers a decent mouthful of apple, pear and ( M a r l b o r ough); $15. Otago); $18. A broad, richly textured wine 87 This off-dry citrus flavors. Drink now. Imported by Luxe Vi n- Pinot Gris starts off with a touch of passionfruit tages. —J.C. made in a dry style, this packs in the pear, nec- and spice on the nose, then adds honeyed melon tarine and melon flavors, then wraps them up and pear flavors on the palate. The finish lingers, Mohua 2009 Pinot Gris (Central with touches of spice on a harmonious, long fin- prolonged by pineapple-citrus notes. Drink now. Otago); $17. Some initial rubbery ish. Drink now. Imported by Station Imports Inc. 83 Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. —J.C. notes blow off to reveal pear and citrus fruit. This Editors’ Choice. —J.C. is an off-dry wine, balanced by really crisp acids Jules Taylor 2008 Pinot Gris (Marl- that seem a little metallic on the finish. Imported L a w s o n ’s Dry Hills 2008 Pinot Gris 86 borough); $15. This is a slightly sim- by Vineyard Brands. —J.C. ( M a r l b o rough); $19. With only 6.5 90 ple but clean and precise example of Pinot Gris, g/l of residual sugar, this weighty wine comes with melon and pear notes upfront, followed by a Escarpment 2007 Station Bush across as almost dry, allowing the emphasis to be touch of apple on the finish. Lots of fruit, finish- 81 Vi n e y a rd Pinot Gris (Martinbor- on the bold notes of melon, pear and citrus. It’s ing crisp and refreshing. Imported by Maritime ough); $NA. Although this wine has performed rich without being overtly sweet, then finishes Wine Trading Collective. —J.C. better in past vintages, the 2007 attempts to clean, adding a touch of white pepper to the mix. marry buttery notes with melon fruit and the Drink now–2012. Imported by The Country P e regrine 2008 Pinot Gris (Central result is not entirely pleasant. It does show Vintner. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 86 Otago); $22. The 2008 vintage in decent weight, concentration and length. Central Otago didn’t yield the power or concen- Imported by Meadowbank Estates. —J.C. Spy Valley 2009 Pinot Gris (Marl- tration of 2007, and this wine’s performance 89 borough); $26. Spy Valley is a pretty reflects that. It’s a slender, off-dry wine, with consistent Marlborough source for aromatic pineapple and pear fruit and a hint of coffee on R I E S L I N G whites, and this may be their best Pinot Gris to the finish. Imported by Vineyard Brands. —J.C. date. It starts off with spicy notes reminiscent of Spy Valley 2009 Riesling (Marl- ginger and white pepper, then delivers a broad, Waimea 2009 Pinot Gris (Nelson); 91 borough); $21. This is a medium-dry concentrated mouthfeel and a richly textured fin- 86 $24. Off-dry in style, with forward aro- Riesling with plenty of weight and richness, but ish. Drink now–2011. Imported by Broadbent mas of fresh pineapple and a touch of chalk dust, also wonderfully perfumed aromatics of citrus Selections, Inc. —J.C. this is a medium-bodied Pinot Gris with plenty of blossom. Lime and green apple fruit carries the ripe melon and red currant flavors balanced by a palate, and finishes long, with an almost tactile Spy Valley 2008 Envoy Pinot Gris touch of apple skin on the finish. Imported by sense of minerality. Imported by Broadbent 89 ( M a r l b o r ough); $NA. Spy Va l l e y ’s Via Pacifica Imports. —J.C. Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. upmarket Pinot Gris is vendange tardive in style, F reefall 2008 Pinot Gris (Wa i p a r a ) ; Dry River 2008 Riesling (Martin- made in an old oak oval with plenty of residual $18. Made in a soft, off-dry style, this b o rough); $45. Dry River’s Riesling is sugar (39 g/l) and a rich, unctuous texture. Bold 85 90 Pinot Gris features apple and pear flavors under- made in a dry style, with fragrant notes of lime, honey and melon notes are accented by hints of scored by modest citrusy notes and a bit of gin- orange blossom and a hint of tea leaves. It’s light ginger and white pepper, leading to a mouthwa- gery spice on the finish. Drink now. Imported by without being delicate, bolstered by a slightly tering finish. Drink now–2015. Imported by Station Imports Inc. —J.C. dusty texture and a long, intense finish redolent Broadbent Selections, Inc. —J.C. of herbal-leafy elements. Imported by RO Maude 2008 Pinot Gris (Central Imports LLC. —J.C. Aw a t e re River 2009 Pinot Gris 85 Otago); $23. A hint of flintiness adds a 88 (Marlborough); $22. There’s a slight touch of austerity to the nose, which otherwise Felton Road 2009 Riesling (Cen- coppery tinge to this wine’s hue, which can’t help features pineapple and quince. This off-dry wine 90 tral Otago); $31. Felton Road’s Ries- but influence perceptions of aroma and flavor. is on the tart side; citrus and melon notes pick up ling perfectly balances sugars and acids in a With 7 g/l of residual sugar, this is off-dry in style, a trace of bitterness on the finish. Imported by sweet, delicate style centered on limes, green with strawberry, apple and melon flavors. Like The Country Vintner. —J.C. apples and crushed stones. The finish is crisp and an alcohol-infused fruit cocktail with a sense of r a c y, leaving behind a lingering sensation of balance and proportion. Imported by RO Woollaston 2008 Pinot Gris (Nel- sweetness. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. Imports LLC. —J.C. 85 son); $18. Sweet and soft, with ripe Editors’ Choice. —J.C.

W i n e M a g . c o m Spy Valley 2007 Envoy Riesling dry (12 g/l residual sugar) Riesling, Paritua’s 2008 followed by a burst of earthy smoked meat, black- 89 ( M a r l b o r ough); $NA. Made in a displays some interesting, offbeat aromas of an berry and cherry flavors, give this wine a mascu- medium-sweet style with only 9% alcohol, this is almost salty, beefy nature to go along more tradi- line edge. Not overly complex but certainly an intensely flavored wine filled with green apple tional lime notes. Imported by Oceania Wi n e enticing, the wine is both rich and sensible, and and lime. There’s a touch of petrol on the nose, Group. —J.C. will pair well with BBQ, lamb and spiced meat and it reappears on the long, sweet-tart finish. dishes. Imported by Cape Classics. Best Buy. Imported by Broadbent Selections, Inc. —J.C. C H A R D O N N AY —S.K. Woollaston 2008 Riesling (Nel- Neil Ellis 2007 Shiraz (Elgin); $20. 89 son); $18. Although the aromas of this Dry River 2008 Chardonnay (Mar- 87 Classic and clean, the Neil Ellis Shiraz off-dry Riesling are marked by lime and floral 92 tinborough); $60. Dry River doesn’t speaks of its Elgin origins. Black cherry, mocha notes, there’s also an intriguing dark earthiness get a ton of press for its Chardonnay, but this is a and vanilla aromas and flavors are buoyed by that imparts gravity and complexity. As it moves terrific example of what Martinborough can do. good minerality, and tannins are soft and subtle. through the palate, it picks up hints of petrol on Restrained toast and oak-spice elements comple- A pretty wine with food-pairing potential. the slightly oily-textured finish. Imported by San ment fruits that range from melon to apple and Imported by Vineyard Brands. —S.K. Francisco Wine Exchange. —J.C. citrus. It’s medium in body, with a long, crisp, cit- rusy finish. Drink it over the next 5–6 years. Bradgate 2007 Syrah (Stellen- Craggy Range 2008 Fletcher Fam- Imported by RO Imports LLC. —J.C. 87 bosch); $10. Soft, unfolding and ily Vi n e y a rd Riesling (Marlbor- 88 approachable, this Syrah starts with aromas of ough); $20. Despite 13.5 g/l of residual sugar, cocoa, cinnamon and smoke, followed by red this wine’s crisp acids give it a dry impression that SOUTH AFRICA berries, pepper and cherry. A spicy finish gives it verges on austerity. Green apple and lime flavors extra flair. A versatile wine with good South end on a note of mouthdrying stone dust. RED WINES African character Imported by Vi n n o v a t i v e Imported by Kobrand. —J.C. S Y R A H / S H I R A Z Imports. Best Buy. —S.K. Waimea 2008 Classic Riesling 88 (Nelson); $17. Marked by intense Muratie 2007 Shiraz (Stellen- CABERNET SAUVIGNON petrol overtones and flavors concentrated to 92 bosch); $40. Assertive and intense almost the point of salinity, this makes a bold with a dark cocoa, black cherry and violet nose, Thelema 2007 The Mint Cabernet statement for Nelson as a Riesling-growing this wine is smooth, dark and mysterious. Black Sauvignon (Stellenbosch); $45. region. The sensation of briny minerality lingers fruit, warming spice and a touch of tobacco 90 Thelema’s trademark mintiness is a star here, as on the finish. Imported by Via Pacifica Imports. unfold on the palate, and the finish is lush and are the rich, savory flavors of black currant, cof- —J.C. lingering. An elegant, sultry wine with aging fee and spice on the palate. Poised but giving, potential. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Com- the wine has an ageable quality and will be deli- P e reg rine 2007 Riesling (Central pany. Editors’ Choice. —S.K. cious with roast lamb or beef. Imported by Cape 86 Otago); $19. A medium-bodied, off- Classics. —S.K. dry rendition of Riesling, Peregrine’s 2007 fea- Boschendal 2007 1685 Shiraz tures hints of peachy ripeness to go along with its (Coastal Region); $19. This Shiraz 89 Warwick 2007 The First Lady stricter lime notes. Finishes crisp, verging on speaks of its terroir, with its savory black pepper, C a b e r net Sauvignon (We s t e r n hard. Imported by Vineyard Brands. —J.C. plum and cassis nose and balanced black fruit, 90 Cape); $15. spice and cedar flavors. Full of ripe, rich fruit Aromas of black currant, violet and Mohua 2007 Riesling (Central and tied together with an elegant spicy backbone. pepper start this stylish Cabernet and Petit Ve r d o t 85 Otago); $15. This off-dry Riesling fea- Pair with grilled meat or go spicy and try Asian or red from Warwick. On the palate, smooth, round tures an alluring nose of petrichor (wet stones) Mexican alongside. Imported by Cape Wine Ve n- and full-bodied flavors of vanilla, black cherry and and balanced flavors of lime and apple with a tures. —S.K. cassis are complex but easy drinking. A delicious, hint of peach. Finishes with hard acids and a chewy spice finish ends the sip. Pair with hearty faintly bitter edge. Imported by Vineyard Brands. G r oot Constantia 2007 Shiraz cuisine like steaks, stews and roasted lamb. —J.C. 89 (Constantia); $20. Cassis, black pep- Imported by Broadbent Selections, Inc. —S.K. per and smoked meat start this stylish Shiraz Lobster Reef 2008 Riesling (Marl- from the venerable estate. A beautiful balance of Thelema 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- 84 b o rough); $10. A crisp, unyielding savory black fruit and spice layers on the palate, 89 g n o n ( S t e l l e n b o s c h ) ; $ 4 1 . Riesling, with aromas of wet stones, green apples followed by a lingering, vanilla spice finish. Age- Thelema’s trademark mintiness is a star here, as and limes, finishing dry and hinting at citrus pith. able and elegant. Imported by Indigo Wi n e are the rich, savory flavors of black currant, cof- Imported by Luxe Vintages. —J.C. Group. —S.K. fee and spice character on the palate. Poised but giving, the wine has an ageable quality and will Paritua 2008 Riesling (Central Excelsior 2007 Shiraz (Robertson); be delicious with roast lamb or beef. Imported by 84 Otago); $17. A medium-bodied, off- 87 $10. A nose of fennel, mocha and plum, Cape Classics. —S.K.

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E Deetlefs 2007 The Elements of e r a l i t y, and an overall easy-to-drink character rec- Solms-Delta 2006 Solms Wijn de 88 S t o n e c ross Cabernet Sauvignon ommend the blend. Pair with roasted meats, 88 Caab Hiervandaan (We s t e r n ( We s t e r n Cape); $9. Black cherry, mocha and stews. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. Cape); $30. This blend of Shiraz, Mourvèdre, cola on the nose, followed by a balanced, bright —S.K. Grenache, Carignan and Viognier offers savory, array of red and black berries give this wine a spiced meat and citrus aromas and rich, spicy fla- fun, easy-drinking character. Good overall struc- Solms-Delta 2007 Solms Astor vors of blackberry, pepper and cedar. Soft in ture and length, with a smoky finish. The wine is 90 Langarm Cape Blend (We s t e r n style, the wine is well suited to ripe, soft cheeses a great everyday red choice. Imported by The Cape); $20. Named after a popular Afrikaner and everything from game to poultry. Ve r s a t i l e Triton Collection. Best Buy. —S.K. country dance, “straight arm,” this Pinotage, and ageable. Imported by Worthwhile Wi n e Touriga Nacional, Tannat, Grenache, Cabernet Company. —S.K. Edgebaston 2007 Finlayson Fam- Sauvignon and Primitivo blend marries classic 88 ily Vi n e y a rds Cabernet Sauvignon European flavors with South African spice. Vrede en Lust 2007 Boet Erasmus (Stellenbosch); $23. Herbs, pepper, cedar and The nose offers blackberry, plum, cherry and 88 (Simonsberg-Paarl); $35. T h i s smoked sausage on the nose and palate give this pepper, and on the palate, like flavors are deliv- bright, mouthwatering red starts with cherry, Cabernet a rustic, inviting character. Flavors are ered in a structured, clean package that ends cocoa and cedar on the nose, followed by ripe delivered in a mouthfilling, layered way on the with a nutty, spicy spin. Imported by Wo r t h w h i l e berries, spice and pepper on the palate. Supple tongue, with lots of spice and cedar in the finish. Wine Company. —S.K. and expressive, the wine will pair well with stews, Good minerality and balance mean it’s not over- burgers and lamb. Imported by Wo r t h w h i l e powering for food. Imported by Southern Starz, Wine Company. —S.K. Inc. —S.K. Doolhof 2007 Cape Roan (We s t - Camberley 2006 Philosophers’ 89 ern Cape); $15. Spicy plum and black Deetlefs 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Stone (Stellenbosch); $19. R e d currant aromas lead this stylish red blend. On the 87 gnon (Breedekloof); $25. C e d a r, b e r r y, anise and spice on the nose and palate give 87 palate, savory black fruit and pepper flavors are smoked meat and peppery spice on the nose are this Cabernet, Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend poised and elegant, and not too big. Structured followed by currants, cigar box and cedar on the an easy drinking but distinctive character. A tannins and a spicy finish give it muscle, but over- palate. Somewhat restraned in the classic style, touch of smoke and a lingering, spicy finish add all it’s a mannered wine with a touch of mischief the wine has a food-friendly elegance and charm. to its appeal. Pair with smoked ribs, sharp at the end. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Com- Imported by The Triton Collection. —S.K. cheeses. Imported by Terry Seitz. —S.K. pany. —S.K. Nederburg 2007 Manor House Dornier 2007 Cocoa Hill (Western Haut Espoir 2006 Gentle Giant C a b e r net Sauvignon (We s t e r n Cape); $11. Dark and delicious, with 86 (Coastal Region); $25. This classic, 87 Cape); $20. Sumptuous blackberry, cassis and 89 aromas of cherry, blackberry and vanilla and an masculine red starts with aromas of cedar, coffee mocha aromas and flavors are delivered in a elegant array of cigarbox, cedar, spice and smoke and tobacco, followed by flavors of cigarbox, bal- smooth, lush wave in this sexy Cabernet. Bal- on the palate. Lively and structured, with a lin- samic and spice. Expressive but smooth, the wine anced, approachable and ending with a lively, gering finish of tobacco and berries. Pair with is one with which to unwind. Pair with duck, spicy finish, the wine is versatile and will pair well barbecue and ripe, soft cheeses. Imported by cheeses. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Com- with game, roast lamb. Imported by Dreyfus, Worthwhile Wine Company. Best Buy. —S.K. Ashby & Co. —S.K. pany. —S.K. Lammershoek 2007 Zinfandel- Spier 2006 Vintage Selection Mal- Syrah (Swartland); $35. This Swart- b e c - C a b e r net Franc-Petit Ve rd o t 87 BLENDED RED WINES 89 land red offers aromas of spice and red (Coastal Region); $18. Smoky, savory notes cherry/berry aromas, followed by vanilla, cherry D o r nier 2006 Donatus (Stellen- start this rich red blend from Spier. On the and pepper flavors. Soft and smooth, the wine is 90 bosch); $30. This alluring Cabernet palate, vanilla, black fruit and spice flavors are a good everyday red sip that will pair well with Franc-Cabernet Sauvignon blend starts with aro- delivered in a structured, layered package. Good myriad meat and game dishes. Imported by mas of black cherry, violets and black currant, weight and mouthfeel with a lingering cocoa and Worthwhile Wine Company. —S.K. leading into waves of black fruit and spice. Struc- tobacco finish. Imported by Indigo Wine Group. tured but smooth, it has a classic, ageable quality. —S.K. Good minerality gives it an upright character. BRAZIL Delicious now, but definitely can be held. M ulder bos ch 2006 Fait hf ul Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. —S.K. 88 Hound (Stellenbosch); $22. R i c h RED WINES aromas of coffee, cinnamon, cedar and black D e Wa a l / V iterwyk Estate 2007 berries lead into flavors of spice and savory berry Vinícola Miolo 2005 Lote 43 90 Signal Rock (Stellenbosch); $35. in this versatile South African red. Mulderbosch 85 C a b e r net Sauvignon-Merlot (Va l e Aromas of cigarbox, black fruit and spice are fol- is known for its quality and style, and this wine dos Vinhedos); $35. Taut, dense and ripe, this lowed by blackberry, plum and pepper on the does not disappoint. Pair with grilled ribs, steak 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot palate. Clean flavors, balanced tannins and min- or a burger. Imported by Cape Classics. —S.K. opens with aromas of chocolate-covered cherries

W i n e M a g . c o m and cherry cordial. The palate is dry and concen- and sweaty saddle are the opening acts here, fol- shows undeniable concentration and length. trated with medium acidity and a tannin struc- lowed by intense black earth in the mouth and Unfortunately, there’s also a slight funkiness and ture that calls for a knife and fork. Give it a few dense but ripe tannins. A lovely licorice note per- a note of sawdust that sits on top of the wine, years. Imported by Wonderful Ethnic Imports. fumes the medium finish. Give it a few years. dampening the fruit. Imported by S Selections. Imported by Bodegas Carrau USA. Vinícola Miolo 2005 Castas Por- Tanterra 2008 San Jose; $19. 84 t u gu es a s Q u in t a do Sei va l Establecimiento Juanico 2006 82 Straightforward and honest with aromas (Brazil); $29. Overly earthy, but ripe and con- 86 D o n P a s c u a l R o b l e Ta n n a t of Fernet Branca and bing cherries in a medium- centrated with flavors of vanilla and plum pud- (Juanico); $NA. This wine from 100% Tannat, bodied frame. Short, tannic finish. The tannins ding. The long, tannic finish is redolent of U r u g u a y ’s flagship grape variety, offers up an could use a few years in the cellar but the fruit is well-used leather. Imported by Wonderful Ethnic intriguing bouquet of salumeria. It’s honest and unlikely to last, so this is best consumed over the Imports. giving, with convincing flavors of roasted meat next year. Imported by Guardian of The Grape and blackberries set against a backdrop of vanilla. Imports. V in íc ola M iolo 20 05 Cuv ée Clean and modern in style. Very promising. 84 Giuseppe Cabernet Sauvignon- Imported by S Selections. Merlot (Vale dos Vinhedos); $11. A blend CALIFORNIA of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, the Tanterra 2008 Tannat (San Jose); Miolo Cuvée Giuseppe has a slightly sherried 83 $19. Not a polished wine, but appealing RED WINES nose along with flavors of baked cherries, humus for its cassis and fruiti di bosco nose and smoky and apple pie. Sinewy tannins and black raspber- palate of roast game. Try with barbecue. CABERNET FRANC ries characterize the medium finish. Imported by Imported by Guardian of The Grape Imports. Wonderful Ethnic Imports. Peju 2006 Reserve Estate Bottled 92 C a b e r net Franc (Rutherford); $95. Vinícola Miolo 2005 RAR Family OTHER RED WINES P e j u ’s regular Cab Franc, released a year ago, 83 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon- was immediately drinkable. This reserve, with a Merlot (Serra Gaúcha); $27. An earthy Establecimiento Juanico 2007 tiny case production, is denser and more tannic, blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with 84 D on Pasc ual Ta n n a t - M e r l o t but shows the same charm. It’s a fat, fleshy wine, flavors of raspberry cordial and rhubarb couched (Juanico); $NA. This blend of 50% Tannat and with luscious black cherry tart, cola and in burly, slightly drying tannins. Medium, char- 50% Merlot is appealing in a rustic sense, with caramelized oak flavors. Fine now, and should inflected finish. Imported by Wonderful Ethnic forest floor and woodsy scents layered over develop for 5–7 years. —S.H. Imports. strawberry and plum fruit. Tannins are grippy and dense. Better after 2010. Imported by S William Harrison 2006 Estate Bot- Vinícola Miolo 2008 Merlot (Vale Selections. 92 tled Cabernet Franc (Rutherford); 82 dos Vinhedos); $13. Simple but $45. A lovely wine that makes the case for bot- pleasing, with high-toned strawberry, tree bark Tanterra 2008 Tannat-Syrah (San tling Cab Franc on its own. Shows beautifully and cedar scents that wind down to a woodsy 84 Jose); $19. T h e r e ’s a disjointed layer ripe, fine Napa tannins with complex flavors of palate with plush tannins and a short, mixed- of vanilla hovering over the fruit here, but the red cherries, red currants, licorice, cola and berry finish. Drink up. Imported by Wonderful cherry cordial and raspberry flavors have an cedar. Think of it as a Cabernet Sauvignon that’s Ethnic Imports. undeniable charm. In the mouth, there’s fresh lighter in body and more elegant. E d i t o r s ’ acidity and sinewy tannins followed by a final Choice. —S.H. Vinícola Miolo 2008 Cabern e t note of char. Drink sooner rather than later. 81 Sauvignon (Vale dos Vi n h e d o s ) ; Imported by Guardian of The Grape Imports. Easton 2008 Monarch Mine Vine- $13. There’s some density here but also rustic 89 y a r d Cabernet Franc (Sierra scents on the nose and a liquor-like character to Bodegas Carrau 2008 Reserva Foothills); $20. Cab Franc has always been the palate. Drying tannins overwhelm the thin 82 Pinot Noir (Uruguay); $20. Judging one of the best potential wines in these Foothills, midpalate, resulting in an imbalanced impres- by this example, Uruguay might have some and now, veteran Easton tackles it with special sion. Imported by Wonderful Ethnic Imports. potential for the notoriously difficult Pinot Noir focus. This is a good, medium-bodied wine, with grape. There’s a good helping of rusticity here, pleasurable flavors of cherries, cola, bacon and but also some nice cherry fruit and an appealing sweet smoky oak. Has more elegance than you URUGUAY earthiness. Drink up. Imported by Vidalco Inter- might think at this price. Editors’ Choice. RED WINES national, LLC. —S.H. Establecimiento Juanico 2004 Pre- Coniglio 2005 Cabernet Franc TA N N AT 82 ludio Barrel Select Lote N° 77 86 (Napa Valley); $40. A decent wine, (Juanico); $NA. Here Tannat is paired with but pretty linear and with lots of divots. More Bodegas Carrau 2005 Amat Ta n - Bordeaux varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Caber- proof that Cab Franc on its own is very difficult 87 nat (Uruguay); $30. Cherry, leather net Franc, etc.) to produce an exotic blend that to make whole and complex. The wine is drily

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E tannic, with cherry and oak flavors and cherryskin B a r nett 2007 Rattlesnake Hill yet shows a density that suggests midterm age- tannins. Drink now. —S.H. 95 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvi- ability through 2015 or so. —S.H. gnon (Spring Mountain); $125. A tremen- Oakville Ranch 2005 Robert’s dous wine that easily merits being Barnett’s most Piña 2007 Buckeye Vi n e y a r d 86 Blend Cabernet Franc (Napa Val- expensive release. Shows the ripe blackberry and 95 C a b e r net Sauvignon (Howell ley); $90. A good wine, but incomplete, and black currant flavors and new oak that are so eas- Mountain); $85. Piña has a spectacular record shows why Cabernet Franc is a tough variety to ily achieved, with yet near perfect tannins and a with this wine, and indeed with all their Cabs bottle on its own. You get a blast of cherries and dryness unusual in a Cabernet this fruity. The from Howell Mountain. The ’07 is notable for its oak, with sturdy tannins, but the wine lacks depth combination of opposites makes this mountain superb structure. It has pristine tannins and a and complexity. —S.H. wine noteworthy, as well as ageable. Now–2017. good, dry mouthfeel, with very rich flavors of —S.H. blackberries, currants, chocolate and cedar that Yates Family Vi n e y a r d 2007 are grounded with notes of anise and sweet herbs. 86 Cheval Cabernet Franc (Mount F lora Spr ing s 2007 H ills ide Very fine and dramatic, this 100% Cab should develop for at least the next eight years. —S.H. Veeder); $40. Not as rich or satisfying as the 95 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ’06, probably a victim of the cool vintage. The (Rutherford); $100. An amazingly rich, com- Q u i n t e s s a 2 0 0 7 R e d W i n e wine makes an effort at lean elegance, and largely plex and ageworthy wine. Made from 100% (Rutherford); $140. A very fine Cab succeeds, except for a stubborn sharpness Cabernet grapes, it shows firm, plush flavors of 95 from the estate, which is in the north-central part throughout. Despite that you’ll find pleasant, blackberries and black currants, with a sour cherry candy tartness that’s clean and piquant in of the Rutherford appellation. Judging from the oak-inspired black cherry and currant flavors. tannins, it’s too youthful to drink now, with a the mouth. But the wine is also very tannic, giv- Drink now. —S.H. tight, astringent mouthfeel and fleshy, uninte- ing a dry astringency through the finish. Should grated oak. But the flavors are extraordinary. reward time in the cellar. Best 2012–2018. Cel- Sylv est er 200 6 L e V ign e d i They flood the mouth with the essence of Caber- lar Selection. —S.H. 84 Domenico Cabernet Franc (Paso net, with ripe blackberries, black currants, rasp- Robles); $30. A simple, one-dimensional wine F l or a S pr in g s 2 00 7 R e n n i e berries and mocha, and the spicy finish lasts for a that has the benefit of dryness, as well as a silky Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (St. full minute. Give it until 2013, and it should pro- mouthfeel. The flavors are rather thin, suggesting 95 vide great drinking through 2019, at least. C e l l a r Helena); $100. What a wonderful wine. So black cherries and herbs. Drink now. —S.H. Selection.—S.H. pure, so fine and so Bordeaux-esque, like a fine young Margaux that needs time. Made from Coniglio 2005 Cabernet Sauvi- 100% Cabernet grapes, it shows classic black- CABERNETS & BLENDS gnon (Diamond Mountain); $60. berry and black currant flavors, beautifully oaked, 94 Coniglio specializes in appellation-specific bot- with smooth, polished tannins and a fleshy Kendall-Jackson 2007 Highlands tlings from Napa Va l l e y. With this Cab, they have mouthfeel. A feminine wine, it has great charm Estates Trace Ridge Cabern e t captured the essence of Diamond Mountain. It’s 96 now, and should develop in the bottle for many Sauvignon (Knights Valley); $70. Superb, a sturdy, tannic, ageworthy wine, with the density years. —S.H. opulent, just wonderful. Hard to exaggerate the of flavors and complex structure that low-yielding mountain grapes give. Rich and appealing, it beauty of this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Fan- F r eemark Abbey 2005 Bosché should develop over the next decade. C e l l a r tastically ripe and rich in black cherries, currants, 95 C a b e r net Sauvignon (Ruther- sandalwood and spices, with a grounding streak Selection. —S.H. ford); $70. Drier and earthier than many Napa of herbs. Beyond the flavors is the near-perfect Cabs these days, this wine has subtle sage and F er ra ri-C aran o 20 06 Tre s o r structure, marked by smooth, complex tannins. sweet licorice that grounds its fruitier flavors of (Sonoma County); $58. This is Fer- Finishes sweet but completely dry, the paradox of 94 blackberries, cherries and raspberries. Very beau- r a r i - C a r a n o ’s most upscale wine, a blend com- a great wine. Drink now–2015. —S.H. tiful are the tannins, which are rich and pure, prised of all five of the famous Bordeaux suggesting perfect ripeness. The small Bosché varieties. It’s as lush and intricate as almost any- Kendall-Jackson 2005 Stature bottling has been a premier one for the winery thing out of Napa, with sumptuous blackberry, (Napa Valley); $120. Filled with 96 for many years, and this ’05 is one of the best in black currant and cedar flavors. The giveaway black and red berries and stone fruits that have a m e m o r y. Should age effortlessly for at least a that it’s Sonoma comes in the herbaceousness s m o k y, grilled edge, this dramatic Cabernet- dozen years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. and slightly greener tannins. Now–2013. —S.H. based Bordeaux blend hails from several great vineyards, mainly Stagecoach, which is up on Peju 2006 H.B. Vi n e y a rd Cabern e t Flora Springs 2007 Holy Smoke Atlas Peak. It drinks well now at the age of four- 95 Sauvignon (Rutherford); $225. 94 Vi n e y a r d Cabernet Sauvignon plus years, showing lush fruit that’s just begin- This is a very high-class Cabernet. You can tell (Napa Valley); $85. The vineyard is in ning to dry out and achieve bottle bouquet. Feels from the sumptuous tannins and the overall bal- Oakville, and the wine, which is 100% Cabernet, sweet and soft in the mouth. A compelling, com- ance and elegance. It’s soft and gentle enough to shows classically firm tannins and Oakville’s sig- plex and nuanced wine of great elegance and drink now, with voluptuous waves of blackber- nature blackberries and black currants. Oak adds allure. —S.H. ries, black currants, anise, chocolate and cedar, fleshy, smoky notes that are perfectly in keeping

W i n e M a g . c o m with the fruit. Very dry, this is a wine you want to Far Niente 2007 Estate Bottled The score reflects potential. Cellar Selection. c e l l a r. Best after 2012, and will develop in a good 93 C a b e r net Sauvignon (Oakville); —S.H. cellar for many years afterward. Cellar Selec- $115. This is one of the most tannic Cabs Far tion. —S.H. Niente has produced in quite a while. It’s really Markham 2006 The Altruist Calis- not drinkable now, despite very complex flavors 93 toga Estate Vi n e y a rd Cabern e t Flora Springs 2007 Out of Sight of blackberries, cherries, licorice, tobacco and Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $52. Has all the 94 Vi n e y a r d Cabernet Sauvignon plums, along with plenty of smoky new oak. hallmarks of a young, ageable Cabernet, and (Napa Valley); $85. The tannins are strong in Made with a few drops of Petit Verdot and should develop well due to the inherent balance this 100% Cab, giving it a tough astringency, but Cabernet Franc, which add perfume and flowers, and class. Right now, oak sticks out. But under- t h e r e ’s no denying the wealth of blackberries, i t ’s a wine that won’t come into its own for quite a neath are ripe blackberry, black currant and black currants, violets and cedar that flood the while. Hold until 2013, at least, and it should pro- chocolate flavors, wrapped into a very fine, classic mouth and last through a long, spicy finish. The vide interesting drinking for years after, in a structure. Better after 2012. Cellar Selection. vineyard is in the cooler southern part of the val- proper cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. —S.H. ley, on the east side of Oak Knoll. Give this wine time. 2012–2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Flora Springs 2007 Wild Boar Summers 2006 Reserve Cabernet 93 Vi n e y a r d Cabernet Sauvignon 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $56. L i e ff 2006 Auberge Road Vi n e - (Napa Valley); $85. Quite a fine wine, Very fine and high-toned, a Cabernet that shows y a r d C a b e r n e t S a u v i g n o n 94 although like Flora Springs’ other ’07 Cabs, it real class and pedigree. Entirely drinkable now (Rutherford); $60. Made from 100% Caber- needs time in the cellar to come around. Grown for its soft, lush tannins and elaborately detailed net Sauvignon, this wine was grown in the Vaca blackberry, black cherry, anise, carob and cedar in the Pope Valley section of eastern Napa, it Mountains above the Silverado Trail, within the flavors that last long through a spicy finish. shows ripe, flashy flavors of blackberries, cherries Rutherford AVA. It’s very dry and very tannic, Should age well through 2015. —S.H. and chocolate, but those tannins are tough and making it undrinkable now. Yet it has a potent hard. You can decant it now, but better to hold core of blackberries and black cherries, and is B a rne tt 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon until 2011 or so. —S.H. classically structured. Seems to have everything it 92 (Spring Mountain); $65. A big, bold Cellar Selec- needs for the cellar. 2012–2018. Kendall-Jackson 2007 Jackson and beautiful Cabernet. Will appeal to those who tion. —S.H. like the California style, although Bordeauxphiles H i l l s C a b e r n e t S a u v i g n o n 93 will find it too ripe and fruity. Brims with black- (Knights Valley); $40. From the steep Peju 2006 Estate Bottled Reserve berries, black cherries, currants, licorice and Sonoma slopes of Mount St. Helena comes this C a b e r net Sauvignon (Ruther- sweet toasted oak, wrapped into firm, mountain 94 tannic, concentrated young 100% Cabernet. Dra- ford); $105. A very good wine, rich and softly tannins. Now–2014. —S.H. matic in structure and flavor, with massively drinkable now, with voluptuous tannins. It’s extra- packed blackberries, dark chocolate and p a i n ordinarily ripe in blackberries, black cherries, Brion 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon g r i l l é. The wine was aged in 49% new oak, which anise, chocolate, spices and cedar. Doesn’t seem 92 (Napa Valley); $70. At the age of adds smoky, spice overtones. Drink now and all that much better than the winery’s regular ’06 f o u r-plus years, this Cab still tastes young and through 2013. —S.H. Cab, at less than half the price, but it’s quite opu- fresh, as though it were bottled yesterday. Brims lent and will develop for a decade. —S.H. with ripe blackberries, cherries, cocoa and cedar, Kendall-Jackson 2007 Highlands with a nice cut of acidity and ultrarefined tan- Estates Raptor Peak Cabern e t William Harrison 2006 Estate Bot- 93 nins. Not quite ready for prime time, so give it Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); $80. 94 tled Rutherford Red (Rutherford ) ; B e a u- 3–5 years to mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H. $80. This Cabernet-based Bordeaux blend is tifully soft and limpid. So pretty and polished very fine, and shows the classic structure of now, with ultrafine tannins framing ripe, dry fla- Chateau St. Jean 2006 Cinq Rutherford. The tannins are rich and dusty, and vors of black and red cherries, currants, choco- 92 Cépages Cabernet Sauvignon t h e r e ’s a sour candy taste to the red and black late, herbs and smoky sandalwood. Dramatic and (Sonoma County); $75. Showing the usual cherries, enriched with smoky oak. With a long, opulent, this 100% Cab was aged in 40% new balance and harmony of this bottling, which is richly spicy finish, it should easily negotiate the French oak. —S.H. made from the five Bordeaux varieties, the ’06 next 6–8 years in the cellar. —S.H. nonetheless lacks a bit of the richness of other Markham 2006 The Philanthro p i s t vintages. It’s beautifully clean and dry, with sound B a r nett 2007 Cyrus Ryan Vi n e - 93 Yountville Estate Vi n e y a rd Caber- currant, blackberry, herb tea and cedar flavors, 93 y a rd Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $52. Tastes but is missing a certain fatness in the middle. Valley); $95. Disconnected in its youth, with and feels like all the parts are very good. The tan- Best now–2012. —S.H. separate oak and fruit elements that need time to nins are polished, the fruit is ripe and complex, find each other and marry. The oak shows up as the oak is elaborate, and there’s a nice bite of Coniglio 2005 Cabernet Sauvi- caramel and butterscotch, while the fruit stands acidity in the background. The blackberry, black 92 gnon (Spring Mountain); $60. Ve r y aloof, in blackberry and black currant superiority. currant, carob and cedar flavors are enticing and rich and extracted, with massive flavors of black- Seems to have the inherent balance for aging. dry. But this wine is too young. It has a youthful berries, cherries and currants that taste like they Try after 2013. Cellar Selection. —S.H. rudeness that demands 5–7 years in the cellar. were baked into a pastry, and sprinkled with

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E cocoa, anise, vanilla and a touch of salt and black Coniglio 2005 Cabernet Sauvi- blackberry, currant and cedar flavors. The vine- pepper. Delicious and forward, and should hold 91 gnon (Oakville); $60. A rich, pol- yard is in the southerly Oak Knoll area. —S.H. steady over the next six years. —S.H. ished Cabernet. Doesn’t taste particularly Oakville-like, due to extreme ripeness, softness, Diamond Springs Vi n e y a rd 2007 F reemark Abbey 2005 Sycamore high alcohol and refined tannins that could come 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (El Dorado); 92 Vi n e y a r d Cabernet Sauvignon from anywhere, but it’s well crafted and delicious. $40. One of the more interesting Cabs to ( R u t h e r f o rd); $70. Marked by strong, dry tan- Offers waves of blackberries, black currants, emerge lately from the Foothills. Shows real nins now, which lock it down and make it astrin- chocolate and cedar. Now–2013. —S.H. class, with ripe flavors of blackberries and black gent through the finish. Yet beneath the currants, and fine, smooth, complex tannins. toughness is plenty of ripe fruit, with waves of Flora Springs 2007 Trilogy Red Could develop for 3–5 years. —S.H. blackberries and black currants. Oak shows up 91 Wine (Napa Valley); $65. M a d e D u c k h o r n 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- as toast, and also contributes to the tannins. from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Ver- gnon (Napa Valley); $65. An enjoy- Nowhere near ready, this wine should begin to dot, this is a good, smooth wine that shows its 90 able Cab for its lush mouthfeel and ample flavors come into its own after 2011. Cellar Selection. Napa origins in the ripeness of fruit and classy of blackberries, black currants, cherries, spices —S.H. tannins. Floods the mouth with blackberries and oak. There’s a certain sharpness that cuts through and smoky oak. Feels rich and savory all the way through. The tannins certainly are present, but Frog’s Leap 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- the richness and lasts through the finish, which they’re refined. Drink now–2015. —S.H. 92 gnon (Napa Valley); $42. G o o d may limit ageability, so drink soon.—S.H. Cabernet, dry and complex, showing classic Napa Kendall-Jackson 2007 Grand Edge 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon character. The tannin structure is near perfect, 91 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 90 (Napa Valley); $20. This is one of the while the flavors are ripe and juicy in blackber- best buys on the market now for a Cabernet of (Sonoma County); $30. Serious Cabernet, ries, cherries, currants and cedar. Polished now this quality at this price. It’s a wonderful wine, rich and complex and full bodied, made from and through 2013. —S.H. well structured and dry, with lush flavors of Knights Valley and Alexander Valley fruit, with a blackberries, currants, herbs and cedar that are few grapes from Atlas Peak and Mount Veeder. Kendall-Jackson 2007 Highlands wrapped into firm, ripe tannins. Should develop Dense and tannic now, but high toned, with 92 Estates Trace Ridge (Knights Val- additional complexity through 2014. E d i t o r s ’ waves of black currants, black cherries and oak. A ley); $75. Doesn’t have quite the sheer ravish- Choice. —S.H. good price for a Cabernet of this quality. Drink ing power of the winery’s Trace Ridge Cabernet, now–2012. —S.H. but this Cab-based Bordeaux blend is nuanced Sawyer 2006 Bradford Estate and possibly more complex and Bordeaux-like. Meritage (Rutherford); $44. H e r e ’s Martin Estate 2006 Collector’s 90 a balanced, young Cab-based Bordeaux blend. The flavors are of currants, blackberries, cher- Reserve Puerta Dorada Vineyard 91 It’s juicy in tutti-frutti Lifesaver candy flavors of ries, anise and cedar, aged in 78% new French Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford); $120. oak. Give it until 2011 to mellow. —S.H. blackberries, cherries and raspberries, yet is quite Tastes young and jammy now, with perky, tartly dry, and the acid-tannin structure gives it an ele- sweet flavors of blackberries, cherries and cur- William Harrison 2006 Estate Bot- gant framework. Seems best now for its youthful rants. Oak adds smoky complexities that bring to tled Cabernet Sauvignon (Ruther- pizzazz. —S.H. 92 mind mocha, vanilla and buttered toast, with a ford); $50. Harrison’s Cabernet is a bit hard in sprinkle of cinnamon. Somewhat lacking in Bartalotti 2005 Reserve Cabernet youth, marked by strong tannins that make for nuance, with plenty of flash, this Cab should Sauvignon (Stags Leap District); an astringent mouthfeel. It’s also somewhat linear 89 develop over the next 6–8 years. —S.H. $60. A lot of new oak on this wine, which is in varietal flavor, with ripe black currants and dominated by caramel and vanilla crème brûlée. blackberries and a certain minerality. Not drink- B Cellars 2006 To Kalon Cabernet The underlying 100% Cab is fine in blackberries, able now, but all indications are for a good future. 90 Sauvignon (Oakville); $125. A chal- black currants and chocolate, with those famous Better after 2012. Cellar Selection. —S.H. lenging wine, one whose future is hard to predict. rich, dense Stags Leap tannins. —S.H. The immediate impact is very rich and ripe, with Bella Vetta 2006 Ami’s Vi n e y a rd flavors of milk chocolate, blackberry jam and Coniglio 2005 Cabernet Sauvi- C a b e r net Sauvignon (Howell 91 caramelized oak. In the mouth it feels soft and gnon (Atlas Peak); $60. High alco- Mountain); $29. 89 Bella Ve t t a ’s 2005 was very yielding. Not entirely satisfactory now, so the hol, approaching 16%, compromises this wine. If good. This 2006 is easily on a par. It’s a ripe, score reflects potential beyond 2012. —S.H. you can get past the heat and superripeness, it plush wine, filled with blackberry, currant and defines one aspect of the modern style, in a sweet oak flavors with a savory tease of leather Darms Lane 2006 Bon Passe Vi n e- f l a s h y, Napa way. Offers massive waves of jammy that may be a touch of brett, but it acts as a spice. 90 y a rd Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa blackberries and mocha, and is probably best And look how modern techniques have tamed Valley); $60. A little ungainly now due to the now and for a couple of years. —S.H. those fierce Howell Mountain tannins. The tannins, which are hard and overpower the fruit. mouthfeel is sheer velvet. Editors’ Choice. — Not quite up there with the fine 2005, but still a G i r a r d 2007 Artistry (Napa Va l - S.H. very good Cabernet Sauvignon, with pleasant 89 ley); $40. Here’s a pleasant, fruity, rich

W i n e M a g . c o m Bordeaux blend that impresses for its sheer DeLorimier 2005 Smith Orc h a rd dimensional flavors of blackberries, cherries, cur- wealth of flavor. Floods the mouth with black- 88 Vi n e y a rd Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- rants and sandalwood. —S.H. berries, cherries, red and black currants and gnon (Dry Creek Valley); $50. Very ripe and sweet, smoky oak, with firm but finely ground j a m m y, a superfruity young Cab that could bene- Dutcher Crossing 2006 Ta y l o r tannins. Feels direct and simple now, but that fit from time in the cellar. Erupts in the mouth 87 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry could be a function of youth. Try holding for 4–6 with blackberries, cherries, licorice, currants and C reek Valley); $41. Strongly extracted and years and see where it goes. —S.H. cedar, wrapped into smooth tannins. Give it 2–3 oaky, this Cab isn’t showing much finesse now. It years to mellow. —S.H. has jammy, pie-filling blackberry and cherry fla- Langtry 2006 Old Soldier Road vors, liberally spiced and wrapped into chewy 89 Tephra Ridge Vi n e y a r d (Lake M a d o r om 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- tannins. Will age without developing complexity. gnon (Napa Valley); $70. This is a —S.H. County); $40. This Bordeaux blend is strong in 88 big, strong, fruity, oaky wine that’s not showing oak and primary fruit flavors. It bursts in the much subtlety now. It floods the mouth with Girard 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon mouth with an explosion of blackberry and blackberries, cherries, plums, spices and sweet, (Napa Valley); $28. This is a pretty cherry jam, caramel and buttered cinnamon 87 smoky oak, and the tannins are intricately soft good Cabernet, although it’s a little direct in its toast. Delicious now, but a little direct and obvi- and gentle. Will it develop in the bottle? No appeal. Flatters the palate with strong flavors of ous. Hard to say where it’s going. —S.H. guarantees. —S.H. blackberries, currants, dark chocolate and oak, with rich tannins and a long, fruity finish. Flam- Piña 2007 D’Adamo Vi n e y a r d Sawyer 2006 Estate Cabern e t boyant, if not particularly complex. Drink now. C a b e r net Sauvignon (Napa Va l - 89 Sauvignon (Rutherford); $48. A —S.H. ley); $75. 88 The vineyard is on the lower slopes of good, rich, supple Cabernet, nicely dry and silky, Atlas Peak. It’s a good wine, made from 100% with a pleasant, medium-bodied structure. It Kendall-Jackson 2007 Vi n t n e r ’s Cabernet, with finely ground tannins and strong shows layers of blackberries, cherries, cranber- 87 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon flavors of blackberries, currants, chocolate and ries and cedarwood, wrapped into dusty tannins. (Sonoma-Napa-Mendocino); $20. A solid lots of sweet new oak. One deficiency is high Very enjoyable for drinking soon. —S.H. Cabernet, dry and full bodied, that shows the alcohol, which gives the wine an unbalanced, structure and flavors of more expensive bottlings. glyceriney sweetness. —S.H. A. Faustini 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Rich in blackberries, currants and cedar, with 87 gnon (Napa Valley); $75. Made in hints of coffee and toffee and a touch of new oak. Beringer 2006 Private Reserve the modern cult style, this Cab is extremely ripe, —S.H. 88 C a b e r net Sauvignon (Napa Va l - softly forward and very oaky. It’s almost dessert- ley); $115. The 2006 vintage was not kind to sweet in the blackberry jam, black currant, dark Langtry 2006 Tephra Ridge Vine- B e r i n g e r ’s Cabernets, and this esteemed bottling chocolate and caramelized oak flavors, except 87 y a rd Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake is no exception. It’s tough and gritty, the kind of that it’s technically dry. —S.H. County); $40. A good, complex wine, but the wine that may have a future but whose present is oak currently sticks out, swamping the fruit with not particularly acceptable at this price. Extreme A. Faustini 2007 Secret Veil Caber- caramel. Makes you wonder why the winemaker tannins lock it down. Tastes almost old-fashioned. 87 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $50. thought all that wood was needed, for the under- But it does have a rich vein of blackberries and Soft, superripe, extracted and oaky, this Cabernet lying blackberry and black cherry fruit flavors are black currants, and who knows? It could come is like a melted dessert pastry. Floods the palate wonderful. Sometimes, less is more. —S.H. with sweet blackberry jam, cherry pie filling, around after many years. —S.H. caramel and vanilla flavors that dissolve on the M i r a f l o r es 2007 Meritage (El Dorado); $25. Clarbec 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- finish into smoky-buttery opulence. —S.H. 87 A dry, well structured Bordeaux blend. Speaks volumes for the winery’s gnon (Sonoma Valley); $35. A 88 Clarbec 2005 Glen Oaks Ranch efforts to wrest real complexity and style from very good Cabernet, rich and dry, but you’ll C a b e r net Sauvignon (Sonoma these rugged, hot Foothills. Shows proper black- want to decant it for a few hours to let it soften. 87 County); $35. Good, deep flavors in this dry berry, black currant and herb flavors, with a bal- Right out of the bottle it’s rough, giving a gritty Cabernet. They include well-developed black- anced touch of oak. Ready now. —S.H. feeling to the ripe blackberries and currants. berries, black currants, dark chocolate and Drink now–2012. —S.H. tobacco, with savory hints of licorice, black pep- Organic Vintners 2008 Cabern e t per and cinnamon toast, smeared with plum jam. 87 Sauvignon (Mendocino); $17. Coniglio 2005 Cabernet Sauvi- The texture could be a little smoother, as it’s Here’s a lovely, soft and gentle wine for drinking 88 gnon (Napa Valley); $40. Rich and somewhat gritty. —S.H. now. It has a pretty, polished, round mouthfeel decadent, this Cab is made in the ripe, flamboy- framing flavors of cherries, cola and spices. Easy ant style for which Napa is famous. It’s a full-bod- Domaine Degher 2007 Cabern e t to like for its overall appeal. —S.H. ied, dry wine, enormous in cherry jam, blueberry, 87 Sauvignon (Paso Robles); $34. chocolate, mushu plum sauce and oak flavors that Lusty and fleshy, a fat, opulently flavored young Phifer Pavitt 2006 Date Night are fortunately wrapped into firm, fine tannins. Cab offering huge amounts of ripe Paso fruit. 87 C a b e r net Sauvignon (Napa Va l - Best now and over the next 3–4 years. —S.H. Floods the mouth with soft, somewhat one- ley); $75. Strong and spicy, with ripe, leathery

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E flavors of black and red currants, cola and pep- net and Merlot, grown in Mendocino, Sonoma Main Street 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- p e r. More like a very good Zinfandel than a and Napa counties. Slightly rustic in tannic struc- 84 gnon (California); $10. A little green Cabernet, but despite that it’s quite a nice wine. ture, it has sleek flavors of berries, currants, and unripe around the edges, with minty, Grown in the Pope Valley district. —S.H. charred oak and spices. A pretty good value for stemmy flavors, but there’s enough blackberry this sweetly charming wine. —S.H. fruit to satisfy, and the finish is balanced and dry. Shannon Ridge 2006 Reserve —S.H. 87 C a b e r n e t S au vi g no n ( L a k e Shannon Ridge 2007 Home Ranch County); $30. Shows rich, extracted flavors of 86 C a b e r net Sauvignon (High Va l - Oso Libre 2007 Querida Cabern e t b l a c k b e r r y, blueberry and cherry jam, milk ley); $19. Ripe and jammy, with tons of black- Sauvignon (Paso Robles); $38. chocolate, black currants, licorice and smoky 84 berries, cherries, currants and chocolate, Good and ripe, offering a mouthburst of cherries, cedar wood. The fruit is nice and ripe, but the wrapped into smooth, drink-me-now tannins. blackberries and red currants, leading to a spicy wine is a little too soft and sweet. Drink now. Not a whole lot going on below the surface, but a —S.H. finish. But the texture is a little rugged, and pleasant, easy sipper. —S.H. t h e r e ’s some sharp imbalance in the tannins. Silver Oak 2005 Cabernet Sauvi- —S.H. Wellington 2006 Mohrhard t gnon (Napa Valley); $100. F e e l s 87 R idg e C ab er n et Sau vig no n old-fashioned in the dry, rugged tannins and 86 S ylves te r 2006 L e V ig ne di (Sonoma County); $25. The texture is herb-infused blackberry and currant flavors. 84 Domenico Cabernet Sauvignon smooth and polished on this Cabernet Sauvi- Good, but curiously one-dimensional, which (Paso Robles); $30. A bit overripe, with some gnon, which has a refined tannin structure. The leads to the question of ageability. Hard to tell. raisin and prune flavors, and a bit rugged in tex- flavors are somewhat compromised, with touches Try after 2012. —S.H. ture, with a raisinskin bitterness. Despite that it’s of green mint and peppercorn, but it’s rich not a bad wine, but a rustic one. —S.H. B Cellars 2006 Dr. Crane Cabern e t enough in blackberries to satisfy. Now–2012. 86 Sauvignon (St. Helena); $110. A —S.H. Sylvester 2007 Kiara Private very rich, extracted and oaky style of Cabernet. Reserve Sylvester Vi n e y a r d s Burgess 2006 Estate Vi n e y a r d s 83 You could almost call it a fruit bomb. Blasts in the Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles); $20. mouth with an explosion of cherries, blackber- C a b e r net Sauvignon (Napa Va l - 85 Oak sticks out, dominating with smoky caramel ries, plums, currants and carob. Lacks finesse. ley); $36. The oak stands out, offering buttered and vanilla toast aromas, and things are pretty Could develop, but it’s a risk. —S.H. toast, caramel and vanilla notes that swamp the much the same in the mouth. Under all that underlying wine, which has flavors of blackber- wood is a modest wine with thin blackberry fruit Bartalotti 2005 Cabernet Sauvi- ries and blueberries. Certainly has some fancy flavors. —S.H. 86 gnon (Rutherford); $48. Oaky, with tannins, but that woody overlay is unbalanced. massive vanilla cream, caramel and smoky —S.H. meringue aromas and flavors dominating every- Esser 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (California); $10. thing else. Under that is a fine wine, drily tannic Martin Estate 2006 Bacchanal 82 Too heavy and soft, and complex in blackberries and black currants. 85 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvi- like a melted mocha-raspberry sundae. Lacks —S.H. gnon (Rutherford); $48. Too ripe and fruity, structure, which makes it taste too sweet. —S.H. almost clumsy, with gigantic waves of blackber- Dutcher Crossing 2006 Nevins Monogamy 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- ries, cherries and chocolate. Too sharp, too, and Vi n e y a r d Cabernet Sauvignon gnon (North Coast); $12. 86 the oak is strong. Could resolve in the bottle over 82 This is a (Dry Creek Valley); $39. A bit overripe, with a the next few years, but it’s risky. —S.H. pretty good everyday Cab if you’re looking for chocolate-covered raisin edge to the blackberry, something full bodied, dry and fruity. There’s cola and oak flavors. Turns almost sweet on the Stuhlmuller Vi n e y a r ds 2007 some sharpness, but the blackberry, raisin and finish. More rusticity is added by the tannins, C a b e r net Sauvignon (Alexander chocolate flavors are nice. —S.H. which have a dry, herbal feeling. Drink now. 85 Valley); $36. Too sweet for balance. Tastes like —S.H. sugared blackberry and cherry jam, enriched Oso Libre 2007 Quixotic Cabern e t Sauvignon (Paso Robles); $42. Ferrari-Carano 2006 Cabern e t with caramelized oak. The tannin structure is 82 Sharp and disagreeable, with a cut of acidity Sauvignon (Alexander Va l l e y ) ; very fine, but the wine needs to be drier and less 86 t h a t ’s intrusive to the palate. Overripe, too, with a $34. A bit tough and chewy, with jagged tannins, obvious. —S.H. and the oak feels like it was imposed upon the taste of raisins and prunes. —S.H. wine. The black cherry, currant and chocolate fla- Wellington 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- vors are pleasant enough. Ready now. —S.H. 85 gnon (Sonoma Valley); $20. A little Toad Hollow 2005 Concinnity heavy and overly extracted. Shows lots of ripe 82 Cabernet Sauvignon (California); Kendall-Jackson 2007 Vi n t n e r ’s blackberries and black cherries, but fruit isn’t $14. Dry and harsh, with green, minty flavors 86 Reserve Alisium (California); $17. everything. It’s a wine that needs more levels of and sharp acidity. Clean, but not showing much A Meritage-style blend based mainly on Caber- complexity. —S.H. in the way of fruit. —S.H.

W i n e M a g . c o m Shows lots of lush complexity for the price. — berries, cherries, currants, mocha and spices. M E R L O T S.H. This is one to stock up on for parties. Production was 10,000 cases. Best Buy. —S.H. D u c k h o r n 2006 Three Palms Vi n e- F errari-Carano 2007 Merlot 93 y a r d Merlot (Napa Valley); $85. A n 87 (Sonoma County); $24. A good Sawyer 2006 Est at e Merlot extraordinarily rich, tannic and dry wine, which Merlot for food. Although it’s a bit gritty and 85 (Rutherford); $39. A little too sharp despite its big structure is relieved by potent fla- sharp, it’s dry and spicy, with a complex range of for comfort, with a prickly mouthfeel, like a rasp- vors of cherries, blackberries, plums and cedar, black cherry, blueberry, herb, violet and cedar berry mint sour candy. It’s bone dry and medium with savory touches of anise, sage and black pep- flavors. Drink now. —S.H. bodied. Not going anywhere, so drink up. —S.H. per. It’s a complex, well-crafted wine that should develop in the bottle at least through 2014. Cel- M. Autumn 2007 Merlot (Napa Organic Vintners 2008 Merlot lar Selection. —S.H. 87 Valley); $32. A very good Merlot, dry 84 (Mendocino); $17. A bit tough and and balanced, although it’s at its best now due to gritty in texture, with rough tannins, but it’s rich Langtry 2006 Tephra Ridge Vine- a certain directness. Shows ripe flavors of black- enough in berries, cherries and oak, and is a 93 y a rd Merlot (Lake County); $40. berries, cherries, cocoa, herbs and oak, wrapped good everyday wine to drink with burgers and Easily the best Merlot in memory from Lake into mellow tannins. —S.H. such. —S.H. C o u n t y, this one stands next to anything from Napa Valley, which is just over the hill from the Wellington 2006 Merlot (Sonoma De Tierra 2006 Estate Grown Mer- vineyard. Shows a gorgeous tannin structure, 87 Valley); $18. Ripe and balanced, a 83 lot (Monterey); $20. Simple and a with ripe, complex flavors of blackberries, cher- nice, clean Merlot to drink now with savory little unbalanced, this Merlot has Lifesaver candy ries, red currants, mocha, green olives and cedar. sausages. It’s dry and tannic, with flavors of black cherry flavors with a touch of vegetal greenness, Editors’ Choice. —S.H. cherries, black currants, cola and sandalwood, while oak adds needed richness. It’s very dry and and a dusty, mouthwatering coating of Asian soft. —S.H. M a d o rom 2006 Merlot (Napa Va l- spices. —S.H. 92 ley); $50. A beautiful Merlot, actually Sylves t er 2007 L e V i gne di one of the best ones out there now. Shows a bril- B a r nett 2007 Merlot (Spring 83 Domenico Merlot (Paso Robles); liant Napa structure, with refined tannins hous- 86 Mountain); $48. Superripe and fruity, $30. The ripeness on this Merlot is a bit uneven. ing red cherry, red currant, cola and cedar flavors with strong flavors of cherries, chocolate and new There are nice black cherry flavors, but also nicely grounded with a touch of fine herbs and oak. The mountain tannins are rich and polished. raisins and green flavors, resulting in a wild ride violets. A lovely, gentler alternative to Cabernet A good wine, but somewhat one-dimensional. that finishes with tannic bitterness. —S.H. with a fine steak. —S.H. Drink now. —S.H. Campus Oaks 2007 Merlot (Cali- Yates Family Vineyard 2007 Fleur Flora Springs 2007 Merlot (Napa 82 fornia); $9. Heavy and dull, with can- 92 d e Ve e d e r M e r l o t ( M o u n t 86 Valley); $24. A good Merlot, but tough died flavors of cherries, cola, currants and Veeder); $35. Shows the rich, concentrated and dry, made for drinking now. It’s clean and chocolate. Gets the job done. —S.H. tannins associated with Mount Veeder, as well as proper, with black cherry, coffee, dark unsweet- the rich, ripe fruit. Oak stands out, with toasty ened chocolate and cedar notes, wrapped into Toad Hollow 2006 Reserve Mer- caramel, as well as strong flavors of blackberries, hard tannins. —S.H. 80 lot (Russian River Valley); $14. cherries and currants. Yet the real star is the This is a lean, acidic and disagreeable wine. It’s mouthfeel. It’s fleshy and almost fatty and should Frog’s Leap 2007 Merlot (Ruther- unripe and minty, and even slightly vegetal, develop in the bottle through 2013. —S.H. 86 ford); $34. This Merlot is a little awk- although there’s just enough cherry-berry fruit ward in tannins, and also a bit too tutti-frutti for to squeeze by. —S.H. Kendall-Jackson 2007 Highands authentic elegance. It’s strongly flavored in black- 90 Estates Taylor Peak Merlot (Ben- berries, black cherries and currants. Doesn’t nett Valley); $41. Dark in color, with a black seem likely to improve. —S.H. PETIT VERDOT c e n t e r, this is a big, intense, broodingly tannic 100% Merlot. The ripeness shows in the concen- De Tierra 2005 Reserve Estate Langtry 2006 Tephra Ridge Vine- trated blackberry and black currant flavors that 85 G rown Merlot (Monterey); $32. 90 yard Petit Verdot (Lake County); finish with a dusting of red currants, licorice and Tough and gritty, lacking the opulent charm you $40. Dark, dry and tannic, this is one of the best exotic Indian spices. Very good quality. Drink want in a good Merlot. The flavors suggest briary Petit Verdots out there. It’s full bodied and pow- now–2012. —S.H. cherries, blackberries and spices, with an elabo- erful in pure, concentrated blackberries and rate coating of oak. Drink now. —S.H. black currants, with a touch of violets and cedar. F r eemark Abbey 2007 Merlot Now–2013. —S.H. 89 (Napa Valley); $25. A juicy, fruity Main Street 2006 Merlot (Mon- Merlot, packed with fresh flavors of blackberries, 85 t e rey County); $10. For the price Ballentine 2007 Estate Gro w n cherries, red currants, licorice and cedar, and you get a very nice, drinkable bottle of wine. It’s 86 Petit Ve rdot (St. Helena); $38. T h i s totally dry on the finish. The tannins are very fine. dry and full bodied, with proper flavors of is a jammy, fruity wine. Like an Aussie Shiraz, it

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E offers a mouthburst of tart cherries, blackberries, true barbecue companion, a big, powerful, full- Pinot Noir always is a big, rich fruity wine. The currants and spices. Finishes totally dry, with a bodied wine with blackberry and pepper flavors. 2007 is perhaps emblematic of the vineyard, crisp edge of acidity. Drink now. —S.H. Drink now and through 2012. —S.H. showing massive flavors of cherries, blueberries and wilder, foxier berries that have an exotic Wellington 2007 Petit Ve r d o t Shannon Ridge 2008 Petite Sirah note. The tannins are thick, and the wine is 86 (Sonoma Valley); $30. T h e r e ’s a rus- 84 (Lake County); $24. Tart and jammy- entirely dry. Very fine, a chef’s dream to pair with tic quality to the tannins, which are chewy and jellied, with blackberry, cherry, currant, dark perfectly matched food. Fine now, with a few stemmy and not quite ripe. They give a tough chocolate and spice flavors that finish very dry. hours of decanting, and should develop through mouthfeel to the black cherry, black currant and The tutti-fruitiness is like those Aussie Shirazes 2013, at least. —S.H. caramelized oak flavors. Decant before serving. that go so well with barbecue. —S.H. —S.H. Calicaro 2008 Liberty Bridge Split Sy lves ter 2 007 L e V ign e d i 93 R o c k V i n e y a r d P i n o t N o i r 83 Domenico Petite Sirah (Paso Rob- (Sonoma Coast); $45. Delicious and appeal- PETITE SIRAH les); $30. Tannicly hard and harshly dry, with ing, a palate-flattering wine that offers a gorgeous tobacco, black currant, herb and bitter dark- structure. Waves of black cherries, raspberries, Summers 2007 Petite Sirah (Napa chocolate flavors. Drink now. —S.H. cola, sweet rhubarb pie, persimmon and pome- 93 Valley); $28. When Petite Sirah is at granate flood the palate, and then a crisp gate of its best, and this one is, it offers incomparable acidity slams down on the finish, although the structure and flavors. Nothing quite like it any- PINOT NOIR spices get through and linger long. Best now for where, with its inky dark color, big, thick tannins sheer exuberance. —S.H. and ripe, exuberant flavors of berries, currants, Merry Edwards 2007 Mere d i t h mocha, leather, tobacco, cedar and peppery 97 Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River Donum Estate 2007 West Slope spices. What’s especially nice about this bottling Valley); $54. A splendid, near-perfect Pinot, 93 E s t a t e G r o w n P i n o t N o i r is the dryness and moderate alcohol. A superior although it’s very young and will benefit from ( C a r n e ros) ; $70. Despite a burst of tannins wine that should age for the better part of a time in the bottle. Few Pinots offer richer, more and acidity that make this wine somewhat aggres- decade. —S.H. massive flavors. Just explodes on the palate with sive, it’s absolutely delicious, and should reward raspberries, cherries, persimmons, Dr. Pepper 3–5 years in the cellar. The flavors are massive, Tres Sabores 2006 Petite Sirah cola, mocha and cinnamon spices, yet the tan- suggesting rich black cherry pie filling, cola and 91 (Napa Valley); $45. Typical of a nin-acid structure keeps it all balanced. A joy to c e d a r, with a tantalizing edge of chocolate and young, fine Petite Sirah, this bottle is too tannic drink as it warms and changes in the glass. roasted almonds. It’s quite a good wine. Decant if and unintegrated to drink now. But it has a gigan- Now–2014. —S.H. you drink now. Cellar Selection. —S.H. tic heart of blackberries, currants, chocolate, anise, leather and cedar, and should have no Failla 2008 Pearlessence Pinot Merry Edwards 2007 Tobias Glen problem developing in the bottle over the next 95 Noir (Sonoma Coast); $40. A ter- 93 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); decade. Hold until after 2011. Cellar Selection. rific Pinot Noir that’s so delicious, you can’t stop $54. Drinkable now, but has the structure for —S.H. drinking it, and also shows a wonderful, classic the cellar. Grown in a Forestville vineyard from coastal complexity. With tangy acidity and ultrar- modern Dijon clones, it’s very fruity, offering L a n g t r y 2 0 0 6 S e r p e n t i n e efined tannins, it gives the essence of wild rasp- clean, pure flavors of cherries, raspberries, blue- 90 Meadow Petite Sirah (Guenoc berries and cherries. There’s a feral quality to the berries and spices. The cool climate contributes Valley); $40. A fine Petite Sirah, dark, full bod- fruit; you can detect notes of mountain eucalyp- fresh, zesty acidity, but the tannins are consider- ied and dry, with ripe flavors of blackberries, tus, fennel and lavender. Oak adds the perfect able. Beautiful now with decanting, and should mocha, leather, herbs and spices. Feels good and touch of smoke. Just lovely, now and through develop through 2013. —S.H. clean in the mouth, with chewy tannins and a 2014. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. long, rich finish. —S.H. Morgan 2007 Hat Trick Double L Donum Estate 2007 Estate Gro w n 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Guenoc 2007 Petite Sirah (Lake 94 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); Highlands); $85. H e r e ’s a big, thick, ripe Pinot 87 County); $15. A good, dry, full-bodied $65. This is a restaurant wine. It’s really fancy, Noir. It’s not clearly a whole lot better than Mor- Petite Sirah to enjoy with hearty fare, such as really good and really food-friendly. Although it’s g a n ’s regular Double L Pinot, which costs far pizza or short ribs of beef. It shows a classically rich in fruit and oak, it possesses an underlying less. But it is more powerful in the intensity of tannic structure, with flavors of dark berries, tension, with acidity and tannins all vying for cen- blackberries and cherries, as well as oak. If power licorice, tobacco and spices, although it does not ter stage. You’re always looking for the center of in California Pinot Noir is your thing, go for it. possess the ability to age. —S.H. gravity. In other words, a wine of great complex- Should age well for up to eight years. —S.H. ity and interest. Now–2013. —S.H. Hawley 2007 Ponzo Vi n e y a r d Landmark 2008 Kanzler Vineyard 87 Petite Sirah (Sonoma County); Merry Edwards 2007 Klopp Ranch 92 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $65. $32. Brawny, briary, rustic, tannic, fruity, these 94 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); With Pinot Noir, texture is everything, and this are just a few words to describe this wine. It’s a $57. Dense and intricately constructed, this lovely wine is pure silk and satin. That makes it

W i n e M a g . c o m drinkable now, with its pretty flavors of raspber- anced, elegant Pinot Noir from a great appella- this otherwise rich Pinot Noir. It’s very dry, with a ries, cherries, cola, cinnamon butter and sandal- tion that’s ready to drink now. It’s dry and firm in firmly tannic structure, while the cherry, cola, wood. But it’s also tannicly tough, with a a c i d i t y, with complex flavors of cherries and rasp- licorice and sandalwood flavors are delicious. sandpapery scour. Seems like it should mellow berries, although to overemphasize the fruit gives Brief cellaring is warranted, but that sharpness is over the next 3–4 years, although not much the wrong impression. Also prominent are min- a warning that the long term may be a gamble. beyond that. —S.H. erals, flowers and herbs. —S.H. —S.H.

Merry Edwards 2007 Cooper- Donum Estate 2007 Estate Gro w n Hawley 2007 Reserve Bottling 92 smith Pinot Noir (Russian River 90 Pinot Noir (Carneros); $65. This is 89 Pinot Noir (Green Valley); $52. A Valley); $54. Tough and chewy now, with a quite a good Pinot Noir, although despite the tan- bit tough and gritty now, with a chewy texture, fibrous, tannic mouthfeel like a bite of beef jerky. nin-acid tightness it’s not likely to improve like bacon or beef jerky. That’s in addition to the Similar flavors, too, of teriaki beef, but the under- beyond 2011. It’s dry and silky and delicious in cherry, cola, anise and sandalwood flavors. Give lying fruit is massive, offering waves of cherries, c h e r r y, cola, spice and sandalwood flavors, and this wine a good decant before serving. —S.H. black raspberries, currants and cola. This is a very there’s even a touch of chocolate. —S.H. fine wine, but an immature one. Give it 4–6 years Twin Oaks 2007 La Encantada in the cellar, if you can keep your hands off. Cel- Hook & Ladder 2008 Estate Bot- 89 Vi n e y a r d Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita lar Selection. —S.H. 90 tled Pinot Noir (Russian River Va l- Hills); $42. Made in an immediately accessible ley); $25. A nice example of the ’08 Pinots, just style, this is a softly gentle, silky Pinot Noir with Merry Edwards 2007 Flax Vi n e - coming out, and the price is fair for a wine of this lots of delicious flavor. Brims with cherry pie fill- y a r d Pinot Noir (Russian River 92 quality. Dry and silky, it shows good varietal fla- ing, cola, anise, cinnamon and smoky, spicy san- Valley); $54. New oak dominates this young vors of cherries, cola, chocolate, sweet pome- dalwood. Charming now, and complex enough wine, with vanilla-accented buttered toast and granates and smoky oak, with a long, rich finish. for fine grills and roasts. —S.H. smoky aromas. Underneath the wood are strong, Drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. complex flavors of raspberries, cherries, licorice, Twin Oaks 2007 Sleepy Hollow Morris Ranch 2007 Pinot Noir cola and Asian spices. With fine tannins and acid- Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia ity, it seems to be a natural for the cellar. Hold (Sonoma Coast); $42. The grapes are 89 90 Highlands); $42. Crisp acidity gives this Pinot until after 2011. Cellar Selection. —S.H. from the newish region just west of Petaluma, a a tart bite, but it’s rich enough to take that sharp- c h i l l y, windy area. The climate shows in the brisk ness. Shows very ripe, focused flavors of cher- C a l i c a r o 2008 Poinsett Hayley a c i d i t y, while the excellence of the vintage gives ries, raspberries, currants, gingersnap cookies Vi n e y a r d Pinot Noir (Anderson savory flavors of cherries, anise and cola. Oak 91 and cedar. Drink now–2012. —S.H. Valley); $45. Not an ager, but lovely and adds a fine touch of toast. Drink now–2013. vibrant now. With crisp acidity and an elegantly —S.H. B a r nett 2008 Savoy Vi n e y a r d sleek mouthfeel, it offers ripe flavors of cherries, Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $55. raspberries, pomegranates and cola, enriched Vergari 2006 Van der Kamp Vine- 88 Ripe, soft and oaky. Although the flavors are with smoky oak. Gets better as it warms in the 90 y a rd Pinot Noir (Sonoma Moun- absolutely delicious, you find yourself wishing glass. —S.H. tain); $45. Silky smooth, dry and classy, this there were greater structure. Offers waves of Pinot shows great coastal personality in its tan- B a r nett 2008 Tina Marie Vi n e y a rd nins, crisp acidity and ripe flavors of cherries, raspberries, cherries, chocolate, cinnamon, 90 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); cola, raspberries, pomegranates, orange zest and vanilla and butterscotch, with a dry, spicy finish. $42. A fruity Pinot Noir, with delicious flavors of sweet rhubarb. That acidity is fresh and tart. —S.H. raspberry tart, Cocoa Puffs and vanilla cream. D o e s n ’t seem likely to improve, so decant. Feels a little too soft and melted for the cellar, Should be nice with roast salmon, lamb chops or B a rnett 2008 Viento Valle Pinot but it’s a sophisticated, dry wine that will pair a great grilled steak. —S.H. 88 Noir (Anderson Valley); $45. Very nicely with steak. —S.H. full bodied and rich, almost too much for a vari- A de la id a 20 07 H M R E s t at e ety that wants some nuance. Floods the mouth C a l i c a r o 2008 Paris Mountain 89 Reserve Pinot Noir (Paso Robles); with flavors of cherries, raspberries, cola and 90 Lone Oak Vi n e y a r d Pinot Noir $50. Easy to see why they picked this for the sweet, caramelized oak, wrapped into silky, (Santa Lucia Highlands); $45. Direct and reserve. It’s considerably more dense and com- refined tannins. Could pick up bottle complexity appealing now, like a cola drink infused with plex than the winery’s regular ’07 Pinot, with with 4–6 years in the cellar. —S.H. cherry and raspberry essence, with the multitiered flavors of cherries, raspberries, cola, caramelized, brown butter sauce complexities currants, bacon, red licorice, peppery spices and Talley 2007 Rincon Vi n e y a r d from oak barrel aging. That’s pretty delicious, and oak. Could use greater structural depth, though, 88 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Arroyo the finish is dry and crisp, but this is not a wine to and probably at its best now–2013. —S.H. Grande Valley); $58. This is a very big, full- age. —S.H. bodied Pinot Noir that’s not particularly delicate Demetria 2007 Cuvée Sandra or elegant in youth. It could almost be a Demetria 2007 Pinot Noir (Sta. 89 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $55. A Grenache, it’s so dense, with cherry, cola, anise, 90 Rita Hills); $40. A beautifully bal- bit sharp now, which is the most glaring feature of pepper and oak flavors. Yet it’s bone dry, and has

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E everything it needs for the cellar. Give it until Tr u c h a r d 2 0 0 7 P i n o t N o i r properly dry. Oak is the strongest flavor, domi- 2012. —S.H. 87 (Carneros); $35. This is a pretty, pol- nating the modest cherries and cola. —S.H. ished and supple Pinot Noir for drinking now and Adelaida 2007 HMR Estate Pinot over the short range. It’s dry and crisp, with herb- Talley 2007 Pinot Noir (Edna Val- 87 Noir (Paso Robles); $30. Good and tinged flavors of cherries and cola. —S.H. 86 ley); $32. Tart and brittle, marked by dry, with slightly earthy flavors of cherries, cola, scoury acidity and not-quite-ripe flavors of cher- red currants and smoky oak, in a velvety texture. Vergari 2006 Pinot Noir (Marin ries, mint and caramel corn. Elegantly con- Would benefit from greater crispness and bright- 87 County); $36. Tight and crisp in acid- structed, this Pinot is at its best now and for the ness, but a nice sipper for now. —S.H. i t y, with a tart, citrus fruit bite, like grapefruit. next few years. —S.H. But the raspberry and cherry pie filling flavors Calicaro 2008 Poinsett La Encan- are very rich, and the finish is dry. So will it mel- Talley 2007 Stone Corral Vi n e y a rd 87 tada Vi n e y a r d Pinot Noir (Sta. low with age? Probably not. Drink now. —S.H. 86 P r oprietor Grown Pinot Noir Rita Hills); $45. Tough and chewy. Nonetheless (Edna Valley); $50. Feels heavy and inert, t h e r e ’s a wealth of rich cherry pie, red currant Esser 2008 Pinot Noir (Californ i a ) ; with strong tannins and a peculiar softness that and cedar flavor, and the mouthfeel is pure silk. 86 $16. Pinots at this price are usually limits liveliness. The berry-cherry flavors have a A curiosity. May develop in the bottle, but prob- pretty awful, but this bucks the trend and offers hint of currants. A curious wine and something of ably best before 2013. —S.H. real value. It shows the silky texture, dryness and a disappointment from this fine producer. —S.H. rich cherry-cola flavors you want in the variety, Easton 2008 Duarte-Georgetown with an added touch of barrel age. The result is Dutcher Crossing 2008 Maboro s h i 87 Vi n e y a r d Pinot Noir (Sierra welcome. Production was 4,000 cases. —S.H. 85 Vi n e y a r d Pinot Noir (Russian Foothills); $25. This is the first Easton Pinot River Valley); $42. A bit raw and scoury in the Noir ever reviewed in this magazine, and it’s a Frank Family 2008 Pinot Noir mouth, with some green, minty sharpness to the promising start for the winery, which is known for 86 (Carneros); $35. This is a nice, fruity cherry, spice and smoky oak flavors. The palate Zinfandel. Shows Pinot’s dryness and silky texture, Pinot Noir of some charm and subtlety. Thor- wants to like this wine, but that sharpness keeps and proper flavors of raspberries, red currants, oughly dry, with good acidity, it shows slightly on intruding on the pleasure. —S.H. cola, spices and cedar. The next step, if Easton is herbal flavors of cherries, mint and cedar. At its ambitious, is to build in complexity. —S.H. best now and for a year or so. —S.H. Eric K. James 2007 Pinot Noir 85 ( C a r n e ros ); $28. A bit inert, with a E l k h o r n Peak 2007 Estate Pinot Keefer Ranch 2007 Pinot Noir watery aroma and flavor. Beyond that, it’s a pleas- 87 Noir (Napa Valley); $34. Pleasantly 86 ( G reen Valley); $42. Although the antly dry wine, with modest cherry, cola and dry and silky, a nice Pinot Noir for drinking now. vineyard is source to some very great bottlings spice flavors. —S.H. It has a soft, gentle mouthfeel framing earthy fla- by others, this one has a sharpness throughout vors of cherries, cola, sage and cedar. —S.H. that detracts. The green mint taste suggests Gatos Locos 2007 Pinot Noir unripe tannins to the red cherries and pome- 85 (Santa Cruz Mountains); $20. A Krutz 2007 Pinot Noir (Anderson granates. Unlikely to age, so drink now. —S.H. decent, everyday Pinot Noir. Shows balanced 87 Valley); $35. A bit lean, although it’s tannins and acids, with pleasant, varietal flavors very clean and elegant. Marked by acidity, and Laetitia 2008 Estate Pinot Noir of cherries, cola, mint and cedar. Rough in tex- with a silky texture, it shows flavors of cherries, 86 ( A r r oyo Grande Valley); $25. ture, though. —S.H. raspberries, cola, herbs, golden tobacco and san- Tough and weedy, this is Laetitia’s least Pinot dalwood. Drink now. —S.H. N o i r, although it does show fine Central Coast Talley 2007 Pinot Noir (Arro y o firmness and dryness. Satisfies for its cherry and 85 Grande Valley); $36. Raw in mouth- M. Autumn 2006 Pinot Noir licorice flavors, enhanced with smoky sandal- watering acidity, this Pinot is rich enough in black 87 (Sonoma Coast); $32. Shows the wood. Drink now. —S.H. cherries, currants, plums and oak, but the harsh, dryness and crispness you want in a fine coastal tart texture is a turnoff. Has a prickly, peppery Pinot Noir, with good flavors of cherries, cola, Rodney Strong 2008 Estate Vine- feeling of sandpaper that’s not likely to age away. pomegranate juice and sandalwood. Feels a bit 86 y a r ds Pinot Noir (Russian River —S.H. ragged in the mouth, with some sharpness, and Valley); $20. Tastes sharp and jammy, a very probably won’t age, so drink now. —S.H. young wine with fresh flavors of cherries and Toad Hollow 2007 Goldie’s Vines black raspberries. Gets the Pinot job done at a 85 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); t rout street wines 2008 Split Rock decent price, and could mellow in the bottle $15. A little one-dimensional, but otherwise a 87 Vi n e y a r d Pinot Noir (Sonoma through 2011. —S.H. nice, everyday Pinot Noir with good varietal char- Coast); $48. Lots of acidity in this very dry, a c t e r. With a silky texture, it has dry, clean flavors somewhat austere young Pinot Noir. That sharp Talley 2007 Rosemary’s Vineyard of cherries, cola, spices and oak. —S.H. bite is relieved by fruity flavors of raspberries, 86 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Arroyo cherries and cola, not to mention sweet oak. Give Grande Valley); $70. Tough and lean. This Valley of the Moon 2008 Pinot it a good decant, but it’s always going to be tart. was a difficult vintage for Talley, who did their 85 Noir (Carn e r os); $20. Fruity and —S.H. best, but the wine is lacking in fruit, although it’s s i l k y, with a pop cola taste of black cherries,

W i n e M a g . c o m licorice and spices. This is a clean, fundamentally Affaire de Coeur 2008 Lone Oak Sylvester 2007 Kiara Private simple wine that’s ready to drink now. —S.H. 83 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia 80 Reserve Syrah (Paso Robles); $20. Highlands); $45. A bit soft and dull, with flat, Fruity and soft, a cloying wine with medicinal V il la M t . Ed e n 20 06 G r a n d uninspiring flavors of cherries, cola and oak. cherry flavors. —S.H. 85 Reserve Bien Nacido Vi n e y a r d Feels inert, lifeless, although all the parts are Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley); $25. This there for a fine wine. —S.H. Pinot is not a great representative of this fine Z I N FA N D E L vineyard. The wine tastes overcropped, with Truscott 2008 Pinot Noir (Mendo- Sanctuary 2006 Mariah Vineyard leafy, tannic flavors of cherry tea, cola and oak. 82 cino County); $16. The price is right, But it has a nice silky texture and is finely dry. Zinfandel (Mendocino Ridge); but the wine is pretty ordinary. It’s dry and tart, 93 —S.H. $25. This is a Zin for the cellar. It’s fine now in with less-than-ripe cherry candy and mint flavors rich fruit, but fairly tannic, and there’s some ten- and dry, green tannins. —S.H. De Tierra 2006 Tondre Grapefield sion of parts that 3–4 years should resolve. Shows Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- very pure, focused black currant and cedar fla- 84 V il la M t . E de n 2 00 7 G r an d lands); $28. Dry and sharp in acidity, with a vors, liberally dusted with peppery spices. The Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian River tart mouthfeel, this Pinot also has some overripe 82 challenge with these big Zins is balance, which Valley); $25. Tastes bitter and raisiny, and the flavors of raisins and bitter, tannic raisinskins. S a n c t u a r y ’s ’06 achieves. Cellar Selection. cola and cherry flavors are thin. Doesn’t offer Seems like a problem at the sorting table. —S.H. Decent, but not going anywhere. —S.H. much richness. —S.H. Hobo 2008 Branham Rockpile Landmark 2008 Grand Detour S Y R A H 92 Vi n e y a r d Zinfandel (Rockpile); 84 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $40. $30. A beautiful Zin, dry and spicy. Shows lush, Acidic and gritty. Despite some good raspberry- intricate flavors of blackberries, black raspber- cherry flavors and sweet oak, this Pinot is hard to Dutton-Goldfield 2007 Dutton ries, anise, pepper, cola and cedar. A very fine like, lacking richness and opulence. Drink now. 92 Ranch Cherry Ridge Vi n e y a r d interpretation of a dusty Sonoma Zinfandel. —S.H. Syrah (Russian River Valley); $35. D r a- —S.H. matic in depth and structure, a cool-climate Main Street 2008 Pinot Noir (Napa Syrah that will benefit from some time in the cel- Hobo 2008 Tre b o rce Vi n e y a rd Zin- 84 Valley); $13. Pretty tough and chewy lar. Deeply saturated in color, bone dry and full 92 fandel (Dry Creek Valley); $30. for a Pinot Noir, with a full body and chunky tan- bodied, it offers ripe flavors of blackberries and Hobo’s Zins are almost always among the most nins. Yet there’s a pleasant silkiness, and some black currants, with plenty of black pepper and balanced and elegant out there, while preserving nice flavors of cherries, cola and woodspice. sweet, chewy leather. Now, with decanting, and the variety’s spicy, briary personality. This lovely —S.H. through 2013. —S.H. single-vineyard bottling is dry and refined, show- ing complex flavors of blackberries, cherries, Sunbox Eleven 2008 The Sales- Terlato 2006 Block 9 Syrah (Dry raspberries, blueberries and spices. Drink now. 84 man La Encantada Vi n e y a rd Pinot 86 Creek Valley); $50. The aroma is all —S.H. Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $55. The vineyard is a caramelized wood and the dominant flavor is but- Ballentine 2007 Old Vines Estate great one, but this wine has some stubborn prob- tered toast and caramel. Wood tannins also come G rown Zinfandel (Napa Va l l e y ) ; lems. It’s dry and somewhat unbalanced, with into play, adding to the grape tannins to make for 90 awkward tannins and an unripe, green streak $20. This is a big, powerfully fruity Zinfandel. It a tough mouthfeel. Somewhere in there is a right down the middle. Tart acidity compounds captures the grape’s wild berry character, with pretty good Syrah with blackberry flavors. the bitterness. —S.H. savory flavors of freshly picked blackberries, Decanting helps a little, but the oak may never cherries and peppery spices. The balance is just integrate. —S.H. Toad Hollow 2006 Rod’s Pride fine, with thick tannins and crisp acidity. E d i t o r s ’ Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); Choice. —S.H. 84 Terlato 2006 Syrah (Dry Creek Va l- $30. Good, but overly soft and simple, with a ley); $35. Spicy and exuberant, if not taste of melted cherry pie, cola and licorice. 86 M i r a f l o res 2007 Herbert Vi n e y a rd particularly subtle, a big, juicy wine to drink with Needs greater structure and liveliness. —S.H. 90 Zinfandel (El Dorado); $24. Ve r y steaks and roasts. Bone dry, and pretty tough in aromatic, with an elusive note of violets that adds tannins, it has flavors of blackberries, leather, to the attractions of the blackberries, briary wild cola, coffee and pepper. Ready now. —S.H. cherries, licorice and black pepper. Full bodied FOR MORE WINE RATINGS, and dry, this Zin is charmingly sweet in fruit and VISIT OUR WEB SITE AT Eric K. James 2006 Frank Vi n e y a rd brown butter on the finish. —S.H. 85 Syrah (Sonoma Valley); $24. H e r e ’s b u y i n g g u i d e. w i n e m a g. c o m a dry, spicy, rustic Syrah for drinking now with DeLorimier 2007 Stone Ranch Zin- hearty fare. It’s pretty tannic, with blackberry and 89 fandel (Alexander Valley); $28. beef teriaki flavors. —S.H. What a nice Zin. Shows all the Dry Creek charac-

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E ter you could ask for, with briary, brambly flavors front and center, while the wine is notable for its Truett Hurst 2008 Rattler Rock of wild forest berries, peppery spices and choco- long finish. Nothing shy here. —S.H. 86 Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry Cre e k late-covered mints. Savory and delicious, a fine Valley); $29. Shows Zin’s wild, briary personal- wine to drink now with barbecue. Alcohol is very Mazzocco 2007 Briar Zinfandel ity, with spicy flavors of ripe summer berries. An high, but somehow the wine doesn’t taste hot. 87 (Dry Creek Valley); $29. A nice Zin exuberant wine that wants barbecue and mari- —S.H. made in Mazzocco’s bold, ripe style, and since nara-sauced pasta dishes to set it off. Don’t forget it’s as good as their more expensive Zins, a com- the grated cheese. —S.H. Hobo 2008 Zinfandel (Dry Cre e k parative value. Shows massive flavors of black- 89 Valley); $22. A little hot and peppery, berries, cherries, currants, licorice and cola, Truscott 2007 Old Vine Zinfandel but it’s Sonoma Zin, and a chunk of grilled beef leading to a dry, somewhat hot finish. —S.H. 86 (Mendocino County); $13. Brawny will be a great match to the heat and tannins. just begins to describe this Zin. It’s dry, tannic This drily robust wine has flavors of wild berries, Mazzocco 2007 Reserve West Dry and full bodied, with powerful wild berry, cur- cherries, bacon and Asian spices. Drink now. 87 C reek Zinfandel (Dry Creek Va l - rant, tobacco and spice flavors that finish in a —S.H. ley); $50. Zins hardly get much bigger or bolder reprise of tannic bitterness. Nothing shy about than this one. With very high alcohol, it’s dry and this born companion to barbecued ribs. —S.H. Wilson 2007 Ken’s Reserve Zin- full bodied, with a glyceriney mouthfeel to the Fetzer 2008 Valley Oaks Zinfandel 88 fandel (Dry Creek Valley); $44. blackberries, cola, mocha and peppery spices. ( C a l i f o r nia); $9. The first thing to know about this Zinfandel is its Drink now. —S.H. 85 A light, unidimen- extraordinarily high alcohol. The official reading sional Zin showing easy flavors of berries, cola is 16%. It’s almost Port, except that it’s bone dry. Rock Wall 2007 Reserve Zinfandel and spices. Clean and dry, it’s a good everyday sipper, at a fair price. Best Buy. —S.H. The tannins are hard, and the flavors are of ripe 87 (Sonoma County); $35. Pushes Zin- blackberries. Yet it’s a good example of its type fandel to the limit of balance. The alcohol is Wellington 2006 Meeks Hilltop and deserves a good score. —S.H. nearly 16%. The tannins are hard. The black- Ranch Zinfandel (Sonoma Va l l e y ) ; berry and currant flavors wander into raisins. Ye t 85 $25. Good spicy flavors in this briary, brambly Wilson 2007 Sawyer Reserve Zin- on the plus side is extreme dryness and a certain wine. Tastes like freshly picked wild berries in fandel (Dry Creek Valley); $44. complexity and curiosity value. —S.H. 88 the forest, with notes of pine, anise and pepper. This is Zinfandel on steroids, which is the Wi l s o n Could be sturdier in texture, though, as it’s a bit house style. The wine is dry, full bodied and very R o c k W a l l 2 0 0 7 Z i n f a n d e l soft and melted. —S.H. high in alcohol, approaching 16%. Yet it’s zesty 87 (Sonoma County); $25. Even for and exuberant, with a wealth of blackberry, cur- Zinfandel, this is a pretty big wine. It’s just enor- Campus Oaks 2007 Old Vine Zin- rant and pepper flavors. Distinctly Californian mous in tannins and briary fruit, flooding the fandel (Lodi); $10. Peppery and and Dry Creek Valley, it’s a fine example of its mouth with blackberries, black currants, anise, 84 s t e m m y, with a wintergreen tartness that suggests type. —S.H. bacon, carob and pepper. It’s also very high in unevenly ripened grapes. The berry-cherry fla- alcohol, although it wears it well. —S.H. vors are diluted. Still, it’s a clean, dry wine at a Wilson 2007 To r i ’s Reserve Zin- decent price. —S.H. 88 fandel (Dry Creek Valley); $44. A Toad Hollow 2007 Cacophony big, heavy, full-bodied and ripe Zinfandel that 87 Zinfandel (Paso Robles); $14. J u i c y Shannon Ridge 2007 Home Ranch needs rich, greasy meats and cheeses to tame it. in tutti-frutti blackberries, cherries, plums, rasp- 84 Two Bud Block Zinfandel (High The blackberry, currant and dry chocolate flavors berries and milk chocolate, this soft, smooth Zin Valley); $24. Soft and rustic, with a flavor of are huge, and the tannins are even bigger, giving is also very peppery. It’s a somewhat rustic wine cherry pie filling sprinkled with cinnamon, cocoa this extremely dry wine an astringent finish. — to wash down with barbecue. —S.H. and pepper. It’s technically dry, but tastes honey S.H. sweet in the fruity finish. Drink now with BBQ, Armida 2007 Tina’s Block Maple simple pastas, enchiladas. —S.H. Ancient Peaks 2007 Zinfandel 86 Vi n e y a rds Zinfandel (Dry Cre e k 87 (Paso Robles); $16. H e r e ’s a softly Valley); $48. Here’s a big, bold, ripe and high Tr u c h a r d 2 0 0 7 Z i n f a n d e l luscious Zin. It doesn’t have great structure, alcohol Zinfandel. It explodes in blackberries, 84 ( C a r n e r os ) ; $2 5. Too big and being too simple in acidity, but the flavors are chocolate, licorice and pepper. Not for the faint- extracted for balance. Hits the mouth like an exuberant, suggesting ripe cherries, raspberries, hearted. —S.H. explosion in a jelly factory, smothering the palate mocha, currants, licorice and sweet old leather. in jammy blackberries and cherries. Pretty good, Drink now. —S.H. M i r a f l o r es 2007 Zinfandel (El but lacks restraint, especially at this price. —S.H. 86 Dorado); $24. Very ripe and robust. Bella Vetta 2007 Jack’s Cabin Shows explosive flavors of melted milk chocolate, Truett Hurst 2008 Red Rooster 87 Vi n e y a r d Zinfandel (Rockpile); blended into the purées of blackberries and rasp- 84 Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry Cre e k $24. Shows the high alcohol potency and huge, berries, then sprinkled with cinnamon and pep- Valley); $29. The problem with this wine is briary power of this mountain appellation. Zin- per. Turns a bit sweet and raisiny on the finish. excessive alcohol. Officially, it’s 16.5%, which is fandel’s wild berry, cola and pepper flavors stand Drink now. —S.H. almost Port. However, this Zin is dry. Yet it can’t

W i n e M a g . c o m outrun the taste of overripe raisins. Not for and cherries, with a sweet oak overlay that brings everyone, but a decent example of its style. OTHER RED WINES notes of toast and woodspice. —S.H. —S.H. Demetria 2007 Cuvée Constan- Robert Hall 2007 Rhone de Robles Wilson 2007 Carl’s Reserve Zin- 92 tine (Santa Ynez Valley); $40. 86 (Central Coast); $20. This Rhône- 84 fandel (Dry Creek Valley); $44. Interesting flavors in this dry Rhône-style blend style blend is drinkable now for its immediately This high octane Zin has 15.6% alcohol, which of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. They range accessible fruit flavors of cherries and raspber- makes it strong and hot. But it’s very dry, with from cherries, red currants and raspberries to ries, along with spicy, leathery notes. It’s clean b l a c k b e r r y, currant and raisin flavors. It’s also teriaki beef, bacon, cola and buttered cinnamon and dry and balanced. —S.H. very tannic, with some bitterness. —S.H. toast, with all sorts of exotic Asian spices. It’s quite a tannic wine, and very dry. Shows a certain Trios 2006 Sonoma Valley; $30. Armida 2008 Maple Vi n e y a r d s n o b i l i t y, but you’ll want to decant it, even 86 Made from indeterminate varieties, this 83 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $39. overnight, to let it breathe. —S.H. is a tannic, jammy wine whose blackberries, cher- ries, currants and chocolate taste like they were Awkward, with sweet, glyceriney flavors aug- baked into a pie. It’s dry and tannic, without any mented with blackberry jam and toast. High alco- Demetria 2006 North Slope Estate (Santa Ynez Valley); $35. particular subtlety. Drink now. —S.H. hol creates some heat. —S.H. 92 M a i n l y Syrah, with a splash of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Wellington 2007 Estate Gre n a c h e Latcham 2007 Estate Special Viognier, this polished wine is marked by things 86 (Sonoma County); $25. Cherries are 83 Reserve Zinfandel (Fair Play); $30. that are red: red cherries, red currants and red licorice. It’s dry, full bodied and tannic. When the name of the game here, from beginning to An acidic, drily harsh, peppery wine. Even for a end. Red cherries, black cherries, cherry jam, you swallow, astrigency remains behind, with the Foothills Zinfandel, it’s pretty rustic, with an old- cherry pie, cherry liqueur. The texture is smooth, aftertaste of crushed red pepper. Lovely and fashioned toughness that requires plenty of olive and the finish is dry. This is a nice, fairly complex complex, it’s a wine to decant. —S.H. oil, mozzarella and rich beef to mellow. —S.H. wine that will elevate a great cheeseburger. —S.H. O s o L i b r e 2 0 0 7 B e n d i c i o n Oso Libre 2007 Nativo Zinfandel Waterstone 2006 Study in Blue M o u r v è d r e (Paso Robles); $40. (Paso Robles); $40. This is a stan- 92 (Napa Valley); $45. This Bordeaux- 83 This is one of the best Mourvèdres in recent 85 dard, everyday Zinfandel that’s rugged and needs Rhône blend is tannic and hard in the mouth. It’s m e m o r y. It has the silky texture of Pinot Noir, meats and cheeses to tame it. It’s rough in tan- like chewing on leather, with a beef jerky tough- yet is full bodied in fruity tannins, and most nins and dry, with a strange acidity accompanying ness to the blackberry and cherry flavors. The importantly feels clean and vibrant throughout. ripe to overripe flavors of blackberries, currants idea seems to be ageability, but the future of this Shows exciting flavors of cherries and raspber- and pepper. —S.H. wine is far from certain. —S.H. ries, with a meaty note of grilled beef splashed with soy sauce. Lovely now with a great grilled Shannon Ridge 2008 Zinfandel Domaine Degher 2007 Red Zone steak. —S.H. 83 (Lake County); $19. A bit sharp and 84 (Paso Robles); $28. Dry, tannic and rustic, this is a chewy wine with very ripe fruit raw and rugged, even for Zinfandel. Has a scoury, Buoncristiani 2006 O.P.C. (Napa and a touch of oak. The blackberry, cherry and peppery mouthfeel that gives the blackberry and 88 Valley); $40. Surprisingly tannic, con- blueberry fruit a bite. Drink now. —S.H. cocoa flavors have an edge of beef jerky and siderably more so than the wonderful ’05. There’s black pepper. Drink now. —S.H. a sting of astringency that shuts down the palate Armida 2008 Poizin Zinfandel and emphasizes the dryness. Underneath are the Latcham 2007 Special Reserve (Sonoma County); $25. Sweet and 82 blackberries, black currants and grilled meat of a Barbera (Sierra Foothills); $30. r a i s i n y, a Zin that simply got too ripe. Shows 84 fine red wine. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Old-fashioned Barbera, and seems pricey for a some bitter raisin skin tannins, too. —S.H. Syrah, Merlot and Malbec. Now–2012. —S.H. wine this dry, tannic and acidic. The coffee and black currant flavors are very tart. Needs super- Norman 2007 The Monster Zin- Liberty School 2007 Cuvee (Cen- rich meats and cheeses to soften it. —S.H. 81 fandel (Paso Robles); $25. Ta s t e s 87 tral Coast); $12. H e r e ’s a Rhône blend almost as sweet as a dessert wine, with a glycer- t h a t ’s full of life and zest. It’s a clean, muscular sip- Armida 2007 Il Campo Estate iney, sugary edge to the blackberries and choco- per that completely satisfies with tannicly inspired 82 Field Blend (Dry Creek Va l l e y ) ; late. Too soft, too. The result is unbalanced. flavors of blackberries, black currants, dark choco- $39. A little too sharp and chocolaty for a dry —S.H. late and pepper. A fine country-style wine with table wine. Shows big, ripe flavors of cocoa, elements of elegance. Best Buy. —S.H. blackberries, cherries and currants, with a sugary Candor NV Lot 2 Zinfandel (Cali- finish. —S.H. 80 f o rnia); $18. A difficult wine to praise. M a d o r om 2007 Camouflage I t ’s tough in tannins, with green, stalky flavors 87 (Napa Valley); $38. A good, rich, dry Shannon Ridge 2007 Reserve and quite a bit of vegetal unripeness. It’s drink- wine with fancy Napa tannins and enough fruity 82 G r enache (Lake County); $24. able at a big party. —S.H. flavor to please. It’s a bit jammy in blackberries C l u m s y, with a sharp feeling throughout, and

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E semisweet, candied flavors of cherries, cola and A r t e s a 2 0 0 8 C h a r d o n n a y B a r nett 2008 Sangiacomo Vi n e - chocolate. —S.H. 90 ( C a rn e ros); $20. A beautifully elegant, 87 y a rd Chardonnay (Carn e ros); $32. refined Chardonnay. Because it’s not overloaded Enormously rich in pineapple jam, crème brûlée, Sylvester 2007 Kiara Private with oak, it displays the basic finesse of the buttercream, toast and cinnamon spice flavors, 82 Reserve Sylvester Vineyards San- grapes from this cool-climate vineyard. Crisp and this wine’s richness is balanced with crisp, citrusy giovese (Paso Robles); $20. This is an acidic, dry, it’s rich and complex in citrus, tropical fruit, acidity. It offers direct appeal now. —S.H. sharp wine, in the manner of many California peach, mineral and honeysuckle flavors, at a fair Sangioveses. It’s severely dry and tannic, with price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Flora Springs 2008 Barrel Fer- only modest flavors of cherries. —S.H. 87 mented Chardonnay (Napa Va l - Laetitia 2008 Estate Chard o n n a y ley); $30. Ripeness of fruit characterizes this Domaine Degher 2006 Mojo 89 ( A r royo Grande Valley); $18. G o o d Chardonnay. It brims with pineapple tart, green 81 S y r a h - C a b e r net (Paso Robles); price for a firm, steely Chardonnay that’s elegant apple, vanilla, meringue, buttercream and cinna- $39. A lean, unbalanced, hot wine, whose black- and dry through the finish. Minerals and citrus mon flavors, with a good cut of acidity. —S.H. berry flavors have an edge of vegetables. —S.H. fruits mark it, with a Meyer lemon tartness given added richness from 25% new oak fermentation. In Re 2008 Chardonnay (Russian Oso Libre NV Por Vida (Paso Rob- Ready now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 87 River Valley); $29. A bit heavy on the 81 les); $36. Rustically rugged and bitterly oak, with vanilla, caramel and buttered toast aro- sharp in the mouth, this blend of Cabernet, Artesa 2008 Es tate Reserve mas and flavors. But the pineapple and apple Mourvèdre and Zinfandel is awfully hard to like. 88 Chardonnay (Carneros); $25. Oak fruit is nice and ripe, and the finish is rich in spicy honey. —S.H. —S.H. sticks out on this Chardonnay, with the aroma and flavor of buttered white toast dominating. Langtry 2008 Genevieve Vi n e y a rd Tres Sabores 2007 Por que No? But there comes an immediate rush of pineap- C h a rdonnay (Guenoc Valley); $30. 80 (Napa Valley); $25. Why not? ples, limes and peaches, giving the wine a good 87 Strong and ripe and oaky. Not showing much Because the wine smells like soap, and tastes balance of wood and fruit, and it’s very dry and subtlety, but a very good example of the modern chemically. Something went south with this Zin- crisp. At its best now, but don’t serve too cold. California style. It’s a clean, vibrant Chardonnay based blend. —S.H. —S.H. starring massive flavors of pineapple tart, Meyer lemon custard and tangerines, brightened with B a r nett 2008 Savoy Vi n e y a r d zesty acidity. —S.H. CALIFORNIA 88 C h a r donnay (Anderson Va l l e y ) ; $35. Made in the modern, ripe California style Toad Hollow 2008 Francine’s of exceptionally ripe fruit, accented with strong WHITE WINES Selection Unoaked Chard o n n a y oak. Not especially subtle, but flattering to the 87 (Mendocino County); $13. No oak to inter- C H A R D O N N AY palate, with opulent flavors of pineapple crème fere with the ripe, opulent flavors of pineapples, brûlée, peaches, cream, buttered toast, vanilla lemons, limes and tangerines, which are bright- Failla 2008 Estate Chard o n n a y bean and honeysuckle. —S.H. ened and heightened by crisp acidity. The price is (Sonoma Coast); $42. From the 97 right on this balanced, savory Chardonnay. Edi- wildest, most remote and exotic stretch of the Demetria 2007 Eighteen Chard o n- tors’ Choice. —S.H. Sonoma Coast: you can taste the salt of the sea in 88 nay (Sta. Rita Hills); $45. All the this wine, as you can in a Manzanilla Sherry. It buttered toast, vanilla bean, apricot jam and Tr u c h a r d 20 08 C hard o n n a y gives a tang to the lemondrop, pear and honey- pineapple crème brûlée you could want is here, 87 ( C a r n e ros); $30. Shows the dry earth- suckle flavors, with their lick of cold granite. So but this lovely Chardonnay is lifted above the iness that often marks Carneros Chardonnay, pure and vibrant, so savory, so compelling. Grows ordinary by a minerality that gives it a refreshing with an herb and tobacco grounding to the riper more fascinating with every minute in the glass. tang. Crisp acidity also helps to provide structure pineapples and peaches. Oak, of course, adds Editors’ Choice. —S.H. to the richness. Will have a short life as evi- sweet notes of vanilla and buttercream. There’s denced by some overripeness on the finish, so also a cut of acidity. —S.H. Morgan 2007 Hat Trick Double L enjoy now. —S.H. 92 Vi n e y a r d Chardonnay (Santa A de la id a 20 08 H M R E s t at e Lucia Highlands); $65. Marked by a lean min- Artesa 2008 Limited Release 86 Chardonnay (Paso Robles); $32. A erality, this Chablis-style wine is not one of those 87 C h a r donnay (Carn e r os); $40. little too soft and sweet for balance, with flavors fat, opulent Chards that dazzles with sheer rich- Pretty oaky, with a flood of caramel and buttered like the melted filling of pineapple tart, lemon ness. It’s more subtle than that, and more acidic. toast, and you have to wonder why they plastered meringue pie and vanilla custard. Alcohol adds a Structure, in fact, is the name of the game here, so much barrel influence, because the underlying nice, balancing burn. —S.H. with its lemon and lime flavors that barely break wine is pretty good. Buried under the wood is a into green apples. Fine now, if not served too d r y, crisp Chardonnay with pineapple, pear, floral Athair 2008 Chardonnay (Russian cold, and for the next 2–4 years. Beyond that, and mineral flavors. Give it a good decant and 86 River Valley); $32. Fruity and oaky, wines of this kind go quickly downhill. —S.H. don’t serve too cold. —S.H. this Chardonnay is made in the modern Califor-

W i n e M a g . c o m nia style of immediate palate appeal. It’s not Stuhlmuller Vi n e y a r ds 2008 Flatters with pineapple and Meyer lemon flavors especially complex or ageworthy, but has crowd- 84 Estate Chardonnay (Alexander that are ultraclean and racy. —S.H. pleasing flavors of pineapple tart, crème brûlée Valley); $24. Oaky and dull, with flavors of and vanilla cookies. —S.H. sweetened pineapple juice that are heavily plas- Langtry 2008 Lillie Vi n e y a r d tered with caramel and buttered popcorn. Needs 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Guenoc Va l l e y ) ; E l k h o r n Peak 2007 Chard o n n a y greater restraint and subtlety. —S.H. $20. Good and dry, with crisp acidity and a rich 86 (Napa Valley); $28. A lean, crisp, streak of citrus fruits suggesting pineapples and herbal Chardonnay. Lacks richness, but the Amphora 2007 Peters Vi n e y a rd limes. Floral notes of honeysuckle add to the structure is dry and elegant. Shows tobacco, sage, 83 C h a r donnay (Russian River Va l - impression of richness. The wine also is fairly cedar and citrus fruit flavors. —S.H. ley); $30. A decent, everyday Chardonnay. strong in gooseberries, with that tart, pungent, Tastes dryish, with pineapple and caramel flavors. earthy taste. —S.H. Guenoc 2008 Chardonnay (Lake —S.H. 86 County); $14. Ripe and fruity, this is a L i e ff 2008 Rutherford Cro s s ro a d Chardonnay that will appeal to fans of the mod- Esser 2008 Chardonnay (Califor- 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford ) ; ern style. Brims with pineapples, lemons, limes 83 nia); $10. Sweet and oaky, in the mod- $25. This area of central Rutherford is far better and green apples, with a touch of vanilla cream. ern style, with oodles of buttered toast, caramel known for Cabernet. Sauvignon Blanc is rare. —S.H. corn, vanilla cream and pineapple jam flavors. This is a pretty good one. Not great, because it’s —S.H. compromised by some unripe, green, stalky fla- Oakville Ranch 2007 Chardonnay vors. But it’s very dry and crisp, and you’ll find 86 (Napa Valley); $40. Tastes very oaky, Albeno Munari 2007 Chard o n n a y enough lemons and limes to satisfy. —S.H. with vanilla and caramel flavors dominating the 82 (Calaveras County); $15. Dull and earthy pineapples and green apples. That earthi- w a t e r y. Not much going on beyond the alcohol, Main Street 2008 Sauvignon ness shows up in the form of sage-like herbs. although you’ll find very modest citrus flavors. 85 Blanc (Monterey County); $10. A Ready now. —S.H. —S.H. nice Sauvignon Blanc that’s likeable for its extreme dryness, and that savory, Monterey acid- Summers 2008 Stuhlmuller Vine- De Tierra 2007 Coast View Vine- ity that leaves the finish so clean. Shows fine fla- 86 y a r ds Re s er ve Ch ard o n n a y 82 y a r d Chardonnay (Montere y ) ; vors of lemons and limes, with a touch of smoky (Alexander Valley); $32. Dryness and herba $25. Vegetal, and the richer pineapple and vanilla. Best Buy. —S.H. notes mark this wine. Despite some rich oak vanilla cream flavors do nothing to make it go influences, it comes down on the mineral and a w a y. Through the dry, acidic mouthfeel, that Sawyer 2008 Sauvignon Blanc sage side, only vaguely suggesting fruitier notes taste of asparagus comes through. —S.H. 85 ( R u t h e r f o rd); $19. Front-loaded with of pineapples and peaches. —S.H. lemon, lime, grapefruit, gooseberry and honey- Norman 2008 Reserve Chard o n- suckle flavors, this friendly Sauv Blanc is basi- F ree mark Abbey 2008 Chard o n - 82 nay (Edna Valley); $20. Not much cally dry. It turns racy with acidity toward the 85 nay (Napa Valley); $22. The palate reserve going on with this soft, boring Chardon- finish. A nice, versatile white wine for drinking impression is of oak, lees and acidity, which give n a y. It’s dry and heavy in pineapple and lime pulp anytime. —S.H. tart vanilla, buttered toast and sour cream flavors flavors. —S.H. to an otherwise simple wine. When the palate Campus Oaks 2008 Sauvignon searches for fruit, it finds modest pineapples, Robert Renzoni 2008 Barile 84 Blanc (Lodi); $9. Gets the job done peaches and green apples. —S.H. 82 C h a r donnay (Temecula Va l l e y ) ; with dryness, crispness and savory flavors of $26. Simple and very dry, with herb-infused lemons and limes. Nothing complicated here, just Frank Family 2008 Chard o n n a y pineapple flavors and unnatural acidity. —S.H. a good, affordable wine to drink with everything 84 (Napa Valley); $33. Ripe, oaky and from cocktails to chicken and Chinese food. somewhat common. Shows all the bells and whis- Hayman & Hill 2008 Reserve —S.H. tles of a Burgundian-style Chardonnay, with 80 Selection Chardonnay (Russian vanilla cream, pineapple tart and buttered toast River Valley); $15. Has extracted pineapple flavors. But it’s too soft for balance, and lacks jam flavors and an oaky blanket that doesn’t taste V I O G N I E R complexity. —S.H. natural. —S.H. Failla 2008 Alban Vineyard Viog- Main Street 2008 Chard o n n a y 94 nier (Edna Valley); $39. Pristine is 84 (Santa Barbara County); $10. A bit SAUVIGNON BLANC the word that comes to mind. Also pure, trans- obvious in ripe fruit and oak, with easy flavors of parent, lucid. It’s bone dry and crisp and elusively pineapples, apricots, vanilla cream and smoky Hanna 2009 Sauvignon Blanc complex in citrus, pear, mineral and floral aro- caramel. But the price is right, and this wine, 86 (Russian River Valley); $19. C r i s p mas and flavors, subtlely enhanced with oak. whose production was 20,000 cases, will please and citrusy. Treads predictable grounds for Cali- Only 45 cases were produced, but it’s worth the lots of people. —S.H. fornia Sauvignon Blanc, but in a superior way. search. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E Hawley 2008 Viognier (Sonoma Demetria 2007 Cuvée Papou ple crème brûlée and vanilla custard flavors. 87 County); $23. A rich, fruity Viognier 88 (Santa Ynez Valley); $28. A blend of Utterly delicious. —S.H. that shows its sunny, warm origins in the ripe Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and array of tropical fruits, wildflowers, honey, vanilla Viognier. It’s bone dry and zesty in acidity, show- M i r a f l o r es 2006 Botricelli Sémil- and spices, and also in the softness. Easy to drink ing an austerity of flavor that emphasizes miner- 92 lon-Sauvignon Blanc (California); and quite enjoyable, especially as a cocktail wine. als over fruit. There’s enough Meyer lemon and $40. This is a late-harvest dessert wine blend of —S.H. lime zest to satisfy. Sleek and elegant. —S.H. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. It’s very rich and very sweet and very easy to like. Backed up with Oso Libre 2008 Volado Vi o g n i e r Shannon Ridge 2008 Morine firm acidity, it shows extraordinarily ripe flavors 85 (Paso Robles); $32. Too ripe and sim- 88 Ranch Roussanne (High Va l l e y ) ; of pineapples, apricots, oranges, honey, crème ple in jammy pineapples, tangerines and apricots $24. A stylish Roussanne, built along the lines of brûlée, vanilla bean, buttered toast and cinna- to stimulate interest, and although it’s dry, the a nice, rich Chardonnay. Feels full and creamy in acidity tastes unnatural. Shows the difficulties of the mouth, with interesting, complex flavors of mon spices. —S.H. crafting a fine white wine in Paso Robles. —S.H. peaches, apricots, sweet Meyer lemon, honey- suckle and oak. Crisp acidity is notable in the E l k h o r n Peak NV Dessert Wine Demetria 2008 Viognier (Santa tart, clean finish. —S.H. 88 ( C a l i f o r nia); $20/375 ml. Very sweet 83 Ynez Valley); $28. A bit too ripe, with and honeyed, which makes it easy to drink apricot and pineapple flavors. Although it’s bone Ballentine 2009 Estate Gro w n despite a certain lack of body. Shows rich, exotic dry, it feels cloying and acidic. Needs freshness 87 Chenin Blanc (Napa Valley); $15. flavors of orange tart, tropical fruits, honey, and balance in the future. —S.H. Ballentine consistently makes one of the best vanilla, crème brûlée and candied ginger. A Chenins in California, and while this 2009 seems Shannon Ridge 2008 Morine blend of Muscat and Verdelho. —S.H. rushed to market, it’s a good alternative to Sauvi- Ranch Viognier (High Valley); $24. 82 gnon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. Shows bright, zesty Has the sweet-and-sour taste of a Chinese restau- acidity framing citrus, green bean and wildflower rant pineapple sauce, with crisp acidity. Tu r n s S PARKLING WINES flavors, and the finish is totally dry. —S.H. cloying after a sip or two. —S.H. B a l l a t o re NV Gran Spumante (Cal- Clarbec 2008 Clarbec Vi n e y a r d 85 i f o r nia); $10. Two things to know Pinot Gris (Sonoma Valley); $14. OTHER WHITE WINES 85 about this bubbly. It’s slightly sweet, and it’s O f f - d r y, with sugary flavors of pineapples, rather rough in texture. Those bubbles are big lemons, limes and honeysuckle flowers. Good S i g n o rello 2008 SETA Semillon- and scoury. They almost make you sneeze. The acidity keeps the finish clean. —S.H. 92 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Va l l e y ) ; lemon tart flavors are tasty. Best Buy. —S.H. $32. A very fine wine that strikes just the right Road i White NV Mendocino balance in a white Bordeaux-style wine. It’s fruity County; $10. This is a wine to serve at B a l l a t o r e N V R o s s o R e d in the California style, with ripe citrus, apple and 84 big parties where everyone’s having fun and 85 Spumante (California); $10. D e e p l y peach flavors. The richness is balanced with zesty colored for a rosé sparkling wine, and full bodied, a c i d i t y, and there’s a dry, steely minerality that nobody’s fussy except that wine snob in the cor- makes it particularly savory. —S.H. ner. It’s dryish, with ultracrisp acidity and sleek with raspberry and cherry jam, vanilla wafer and flavors of green apples, pineapples and peaches. yeasty, baked dough flavors. Slightly sweet, too. Ballentine 2009 Betty’s Vi n e y a rd —S.H. Champagne fans won’t like it, but millions of 89 Estate Grown Malvasia Bianca ordinary consumers will. Best Buy. —S.H. (St. Helena); $24. A very nice white wine to Albeno Munari 2007 Marsanne- drink as a versatile apéritif. Dry and crisp, it 82 Roussanne (Calaveras County); shows vibrant flavors of Mandarin oranges, $15. Simple and oaky, with woody, caramelized ROSÉ/BLUSH WINES Meyer lemons, honeysuckle flowers and vanilla, flavors masking a thin wine. Dry and acidic, its finished with peppery spices. Try it as an inter- watery flavors barely suggest tangerines. —S.H. E l k h o r n Peak 2008 Pinot Noir esting and exotic alternative to Sauvignon Blanc. 82 Rosé (Napa Valley); $20. Too dark Editors’ Choice. —S.H. D E S S E RT WINES and heavy for a blush wine, with jammy flavors of cherries, vanilla and spices. Lacks lightness and Banyan 2009 Gewürztraminer intricacy. —S.H. 89 ( M o n t e rey County); $12. With quite Martin Estate 2007 Select Late low alcohol (12.7%), this Gewürz has a little 94 H arves t Gold (Ru therford ) ; Campus Oaks 2009 Single Vi n e - residual sugar, giving it a rich edge of honey. $65/375 ml. A brilliant dessert wine. It costs a That’s the perfect counterpoint to the pineapple, lot of money to pick a wine like this, which is 81 y a r d Reserve White Zinfandel peach, lychee and Indian spice flavors that are carefully selected on an almost cluster- b y - c l u s t e r (Lodi); $6. Simple and sweet, this blush wine so savory and crisp. Great buy in this exotic vari- basis, but the results speak for themselves. Very has sugary flavors of citrus fruits and vanilla. ety. Best Buy. —S.H. sweet and pure, with honey, apricot jam, pineap- —S.H.

W i n e M a g . c o m sourced from a vineyard now almost 30 years old. coats the palate with bright cherry candy flavors. OREGON Evening Land is among the wineries who sense But this is more than a fruit bomb; the acidity an opportunity to make refined, elegant wines and ripe tannins balance it out as it runs into a RED WINES from the terroir of this little-known region. clean, lengthy finish. —P.G. Lovely aromas, complex scents and flavors, pine PINOT NOIR and herb, cranberry and raspberry, earth and Brittan Vi n e y a r ds 2006 Basalt seafoam—lots of nuances here. Editors’ Choice. 92 Block Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- Chehalem 2006 Statement Pinot —P.G. ley); $45. The private project of veteran wine- 95 Noir (Ribbon Ridge); $99. This one- maker Robert Brittan, the limited-production of-a-kind offering from Chehalem celebrates Kelley Fox 2008 Maresh Vi n e y a rd wines under his own label are treasures. This is what they are calling a “great” vintage. The wine 93 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $50. T h i s his inaugural release. Both fruit ripeness and is dark, supple and immensely rich and dense, has pure fruit – strawberry especially – creating meaty depth are here in abundance, with a com- yet retains a lightness that captures the elegance an elegant, light, delicate, complex, though still plex mix of tree fruits and stone fruits, streaks of of the Pinot Noir grape while propelling it to rar- quite young wine. Some caraway seed flavors earth and a fine layering of chocolate. This is a ified heights. The mix of red and purple fruits, come into play, and bolder black cherry fruit. wine you excavate as much as drink; it’s full of herb, spice and earth all come together in a — P.G. surprises. —P.G. smooth and seductive wine that drinks like a dream. Cellar Selection. —P.G. L o n g p la y 2 0 0 8 J o r y B e n c h Ken Wright 2008 Abbott Claim 93 Reserve Lia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir Vi n e y a rd Pinot Noir (Ya m h i l l - C a r l- Scott Paul 2008 Audrey Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains); $30. 92 L o n g p l a y ’s ton District); $50. The 2008 Pinots from Ken (Dundee Hills); $65. All Maresh vine- 2008 reserve is quite different from its non- 95 Wright display their individual terroirs quite suc- yard grapes are behind this gorgeous and femi- reserve stablemate. The aromas include more cinctly, with little evidence of the (roughly) 30% nine Pinot, with soft and evocative scents of earthy barnyard scents, the color has a hint of new oak they receive. The Abbott Claim has a truffle, chocolate and raspberry. Brilliant wine- maturity, and no new oak was used. As a result, bit more of a chocolaty flavor, with full, spicy making that takes all the elements of great Ore- this wine could pass for one with a few more cherry fruit at its core. In fact there is so much gon fruit and puts them into unique focus, with years under its belt; its flavors more suggestive of fruit, spicy and candied, that it is a bit like fruit- winemaker Kelley Fox’s trademark blend of bio- fruit pastry, figs and plums, leather and compost. cake, in a good way. —P.G. dynamic e arthy/fung al flavors , e legant Complex and detailed, it’s a lovely effort. —P.G. berry/cherry fruit, and just a touch of milk choco- Ken Wright 2008 McCrone Vine- late. The alcohol just reaches 13%. —P.G. Scott Paul 2007 La Paulée Pinot y a rd Pinot Noir (Ya m h i l l - C a r l t o n Noir (Willamette Valley); $30. F o u r 92 93 District); $50. Still quite young, but showing Kelley Fox 2007 Maresh Vineyard vineyards – Ribbon Ridge, Momtazi, Maresh and real depth and layering, the McCrone vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $50. Shea – are included here. Soft and seductive, this 94 designate offers pomegranate and raspberry fruit, This has a surprising amount of vanilla cream in wine caresses the palate with silky fruit. Aromat- dusted with baking spices, and finished with a the flavors, plus soft, seductive raspberry fruit. ically it weaves together red fruits, truffles and tasty vein of mocha. This is a wine to enjoy in the The fruit comes from the oldest part of the clean, earthy scents. It reaches just over 13% full bloom of its youth. —P.G. Maresh vineyard—38-year-old self-rooted vines. alcohol; truly Burgundian yet with an Oregon The wine is a pale rose, yet substantial in the flair to the fruit flavors. It puts the lie to any Soléna 2007 Hyland Vi n e y a r d style of a classic Pinot from Eyrie. After some notion that this was a poor vintage. Challenging Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $45. hours breathing it opens up with elegant, seduc- to be sure, but great wines were made in 2007, 92 tive aromas and some caramel streaks, delicate and this is one of them. —P.G. Laurent and Danielle Montalieu acquired this and perfectly proportioned. —P.G. high-profile vineyard in 2007; this is the first A delsheim 2008 Eliz abeth’s Hyland release under their Soléna label. It’s a Ken Wright 2008 Canary Hill 92 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette beautiful Pinot, with the elegance of Burgundy 94 Vi n e y a rd Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Valley); $48. This barrel selection from the best and the freshness of New World grapes. Fer- Hills); $50. The top wine from Ken Wright in estate vineyards is given just 10 months aging in mentation in rotary barrels (for color extraction 2008, this beautifully elegant wine clocks in at 30% new oak. The fruit is exceptional – a mix of and tannin management) yields a silky, per- just 13.3% alcohol, yet delivers a mouthful of red berries with tasteful threads of caramel sneak- fumed, feminine wine that penetrates subtly and delicious flavors. A lovely mix of cranberry, ing into the finish. Let it breathe—it’s a baby— lingers gracefully. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. pomegranate and wild raspberry is annotated but very nicely proportioned and showing layers with dusty herb. Excellent midpalate concentra- of detail throughout a lingering finish. —P.G. Anne Amie 2007 Estate Pinot Noir tion and length. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 91 ( Yamhill-Carlton District); $50. A Anne Amie 2006 L’iris Pinot Noir welcome trend in Oregon is making Pinot Noir at Evening Land Vi n e y a r ds 2007 92 (Willamette Valley); $75. Drinking moderate alcohol levels—here it’s 13.5%. This 93 Seven Springs Vi n e y a rd La Sourc e very nicely, this wine bursts from the glass with enhances the wine’s details, beginning with the Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $67. rich aromas of cherry, chocolate, truffle and aromas. Cola and clove, licorice and toffee scents Dominique Lafon consults on these wines, loam. The fruit factor is ramped up, delicious and promise a tasty bottle that turns out to be burst-

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E ing with black berries, black cherries, black cur- of mushroom, seaweed and organic funk set this Domaine Serene 2006 Evenstad rant and even black tea flavors. —P.G. apart from the other Ken Wright vineyard desig- 90 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette nates. There’s plenty of tart, tangy cherry fruit Valley); $58. As with most of Oregon’s 2006 Brittan Vi n e y a r ds 2007 Gestalt also, though it seems to hit a wall, perhaps due to Pinots, this shows more grip and fullness than 91 Block Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- the recent bottling. This is a wine that could the winery’s ’07. There’s a strong smoky charac- ley); $45. Tart, tangy, and herbal, this juicy wine score even higher with additional bottle age. t e r, presumably from barrel toast, and a thick and mixes cranberry and strawberry fruit with tomato —P.G. chewy midpalate of mixed berries and tart cherry leaf, herb and peppery spice. If new oak barrels fruit. The acids stick out a bit, but the dominant were used, they are not showing themselves at Longplay 2008 Lia’s Vi n e y a r d flavor is cherry, with a spicy herbal edge. —P.G. the moment. But the balance, length and detail 91 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Moun- are delightful. —P.G. tains); $24. This is a delight—a supple, pol- H a m ac h e r 2 0 0 7 P i n o t N o i r ished, ripe and full-throttle Pinot Noir offered at (Willamette Valley); $45. E r i c Chehalem 2008 Corral Creek Pinot a mid-1990s price. Winemaker Aron Hess keeps 90 91 Noir (Chehalem Mountains); $44. the alcohol at 13.5%, the oak a moderate 20% Hamacher has done a fine job with this wine. At The balance and brightness are immediately new, and the earthy underpinnings gracefully in 13.6% alcohol it is in fine balance, with a precise apparent, with sweet raspberry and red cherry check. Lush purple and blue fruits are lightly mix of strawberry, pie cherry, root beer and herb fruit against some lightly earthy tannins. All in licked with chocolate; the result is a very satisfy- flavors. It’s medium bodied, open and accessible, proportion, yet with a bit of extra depth that sug- ing mouthful of wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. but not too simple. There is no reason to wait, gests some ageworthiness. Everything is ripe, but but it could be cellared for up to six years. —P.G. not too ripe, and the acidity feels natural and pro- Soléna 2006 Willakia Vi n e y a r d portionate. —P.G. 91 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $35. J.K. Carrière 2007 Pinot Noir The vineyard name is a combination of the two 90 (Willamette Valley); $36. A fine- Domaine Serene 2006 Jerusalem prevalent soil types, Nekia and Wi l l a K e n z i e . tuned, fragrant, low (13%) alcohol Pinot Noir, 91 Hill Pinot Noir (Willamette Va l - Along with sweet cherry fruit comes a defining this wine offers fruit flavors of strawberry and ley); $75. This opens with a very pretty nose— minerality—a streak of iron running through the raspberry, fresh and juicy, but with a steely spine scents of clay, mineral, blueberry, cassis and a heart of the wine. Balanced nicely, with gentle and enough tannin to feel sturdy and cellarwor- whiff of rather high-toned volatility. In the mouth acidity and sculpted tannins. In the finish you t h y. There is more than a trace of leaf and herb in the barrel flavors bring dusty cocoa and choco- pick up an elegant streak of green tea. —P.G. the finish. —P.G. late. A full-bodied wine, still young, sharp and edgy. Best to give it a few more years in the cel- Brittan Vi n e y a r ds 2007 Basalt Ken Wright 2008 Savoya Vi n e - lar, to smooth out some of the rawness. —P.G. Block Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- 90 y a rd Pinot Noir (Ya m h i l l - C a r l t o n ley); $45. Tasted alongside the winemaker’s 90 District); $50. Evening Land Vi n e y a r ds 2007 2006 from the same fruit, this shows both vin- The Savoya Pinot Noir displays 91 Seven Springs Vi n e y a r d Pinot tage variation and consistent terroir—the marks excellent concentration and grip and its rasp- Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $45. P o w e r f u l of a real professional. The complexity and vitality berry/cherry fruit gives it a tart, racy flair. There’s vanilla scents rise from the glass, but the fruit, of the wine remain comparable to the riper 2006. an herbal edge to the tannins, but overall this is even in this difficult vintage, comes out immedi- Tart fruits, leaf, herb and streaks of earth make very well crafted, balanced and built for medium- a t e l y. It’s tart and sharp, with a strong herbal for a lively, interesting palate-pleaser. —P.G. term cellaring. —P.G. component, and the wine snaps into focus quickly with fruit, acid, tannin, herb and vanilla Chehalem 2008 Wind Ridge Pinot Ken Wright 2008 Nysa Vi n e y a rd in equal proportion. Firm and tight, still quite 90 Noir (Ribbon Ridge); $32. N i c e 90 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $50. young, this wine needs decanting and/or further cherry fruit right up front brings some sweetness Tart and speckled with pepper, this shows lean bottle age to show its best. —P.G. to this wine. Young as it is, the components are but polished fruit. It’s truly Burgundian in style, still knitting together, but there is much to enjoy with well-defined highlights of leaf and bark, and Kelley Fox 2007 Momtazi Vi n e- a l r e a d y. Lovely grapey/cherry flavors are just a hint of tomato. A chocolaty afterglow sets y a r d Pinot Noir (McMinnville); wrapped in light herb, and accented with almost 91 in long after the last swallow. —P.G. $40. Though it seems quite light on first impres- salty sea flavors. —P.G. sion, that is a bit deceptive. The biodynamic King Estate 2008 Signature Col- grapes show a muted earthiness, while over time lection Pinot Noir (Oregon); $27. the cranberry and raspberry flavors gain focus 90 Just released, young and tight, this widely avail- and concentration in the mouth. A graceful, able (25,000 case) Oregon Pinot shows the nicely proportioned wine, with some stem and FOR MORE WINE RATINGS, grip to the tannins. —P.G. strengths of the 2008 vintage. The cranberry and VISIT OUR WEB SITE AT raspberry fruit has plenty of supporting acidity, K en Wr ig ht 200 8 M ere d i t h while the barrel regimen—a mix of new, one-, 91 Mitchell Vi n e y a r d Pinot Noir b u y i n g g u i d e. w i n e m a g. c o m two- and three-year-old French oak—brings in (McMinnville); $50. Bold and striking aromas cedar, smoke and caramel highlights. —P.G.

W i n e M a g . c o m Soléna 2007 Domaine Danielle Domaine Serene 2006 Mark Brad- gance that characterize the pricier Evening Land 90 Laurent Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carl- 89 f o rd Vi n e y a rd Pinot Noir (Dundee Oregon Pinots. Tart, assertive, spicy and unre- ton District); $45. Blackberry and black cherry Hills); $90. This was presented from a bottle pentantly herbal, it’s a delightful wine for near- flavors are right up front, the fruit is definitely that had been open for a day. The scents and fla- term enjoyment. —P.G. the star here. Light suggestions of dried leaf and vors were a bit muted, with plump plum and moist earth add complexity, though in this lighter blueberry fruit, a whiff of animal and herb. The Ken Wright 2008 Freedom Hill vintage it does not have the power of previous acidity has a strong citrus character that juts out, 88 Vi n e y a rd Pinot Noir (Willamette bottlings. This is a graceful, perfectly balanced even after so much time to breathe. —P.G. Valley); $50. This is a different style than past wine, whose subtle pleasures will reward those vintages of Freedom Hill, with less tannin and J.K. Carrière 2007 Pro v o c a t e u r who pay close attention. —P.G. alcohol. Cranberry fruit flavors are augmented Pinot Noir (Willamette Va l l e y ) ; 89 with some pretty whiffs of incense, but it feels a Willamette Valley Vi n e y a rds 2007 $24. Very pretty, delicate, rose-colored, with bit simple in the mouth, and turns slightly chalky Hannah Vi n e y a r d Pinot Noir cranberries and pomegranate taking the lead 90 through the finish. —P.G. (Willamette Valley); $45. In this cooler vin- among the fruit flavors. With just a hint of malted tage the wine is finished at under 13% alcohol— milk and pine needles in the back of the mouth, Methven Family Vi n e y a rds 2007 a rarity these days. It is a lovely wine, spiced with this is drinking very nicely. —P.G. Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir (Eola- pine needle accents over cranberry and raspberry 88 Amity Hills); $35. One of the last 2007 Pinots fruit. Acids are full but not biting, and the tannins Ken Wright 2008 Carter Vineyard to be released, this still seems as if a bit more proportionate. The return of elegance. —P.G. 89 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $50. This distinctive bottling, which includes a per- time in bottle is in order. It’s still sharp, aggres- A del sh eim 2008 P inot N oir centage of juice from 25-year-old vines, leans sive, herbal, yet nicely detailed. Cranberry fruit, 89 (Willamette Valley); $30. This for- toward the spicy/herbal side of Oregon Pinot sour cherry, dark chocolate, black licorice, moist ward, light, elegant wine sports bright raspberry Noir. Whiffs of herb and leaf fade into light, lin- earth—interesting, well-made wine. —P.G. fruit flavors first and foremost. Young and fresh, it gering pale red fruits—watermelon and straw- drinks like a good cru Beaujolais, but with a little berry. —P.G. Willamette Valley Vi n e y a rds 2007 bottle age could reveal more inner stuffing. 88 Tualatin Estate Vi n e y a r d Pinot — P.G. Soléna 2007 Grande Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $45. Light and 89 Noir (Willamette Valley); $25. An tannic, tart and tasting of just-ripe cranberry and Anne Amie 2007 Pinot Noir appealing mix of fruit and forest floor aromas mountain strawberries. There is some pretty 89 (Willamette Valley); $35. A pretty waft from the glass, leading you into a tart, spicy spice in the nose, and this wine is ready for food. nose suggests cherry candy, sandalwood and a and earthy wine with well-balanced red fruits, It has the tannins and acids to complement wild whiff of maple syrup. Those pie cherry and bak- white pepper, bark and graphite flavors. Modest poultry especially. Bring on the duck. —P.G. ing spice aromas continue in the mouth, with a in scale, beautifully balanced, and perfect for hint of truffle. Beautifully balanced and near-term enjoyment —P.G. Winter’s Hill Vineyard 2006 Pinot blended—nine vineyards contributed. —P.G. 88 Noir (Dundee Hills); $29. The aro- W i n t e r ’s Hill Vi n e y a rd 2006 Cuvée mas that greet you from the glass bring flowers, Chehalem 2008 3 Vineyard Pinot 89 du Vigneron Pinot Noir (Dundee cherries, hints of cured meat and more. The wine Noir (Willamette Valley); $32. Hills); $39. 89 A This estate reserve has more grip is already drinking nicely, with an elegant mix of feminine, almost soft Pinot Noir, this opens and tannin than the other 2006 Pinot from Win- pie cherries and fruit pastry flavors. —P.G. nicely with scents of roses, red fruits, and pine ter’s Hill. It has been in bottle for two years now, forest. Despite its light color, it has plenty of grip so you are buying a well cellared wine with sig- Domaine Serene 2007 Ya m h i l l and density in the mouth, even bringing some nificant flavor development. The fruit is first rate, Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Va l- streaks of light milk chocolate into the finish. and the wine is structured with plenty of acid and 87 ley); $42. The alcohol comes in just under 14%, —P.G. light barrel flavors of nougat and mocha. —P.G. but the wine tastes a little harsh and the tannins Elk Cove 2008 Five Mountain hint at green tea flavors. The fruit is subdued, 88 Pinot Noir (Willamette Va l l e y ) ; dark, a little smoky, peppery and very herbal. $48. This is a tasty, fruity, appealing bottle of This definitely needs to be decanted. —P.G. Pinot Noir. Strawberries and cherries rule the midpalate; the tannins are ripe and the barrels Kason 2007 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $28. FOR MORE WINE RATINGS, bring in some chocolate through the finish. It’s 87 T h i s not the most complex of Elk Cove’s offerings, but reserve is the best of Kason’s 2007 releases, with VISIT OUR WEB SITE AT a nice bottle for near-term enjoyment. —P.G. cranberry fruit, minty spice, moderate tannins and overall balance. The thinness of the vintage b u y i n g g u i d e. w i n e m a g. c o m Evening Land Vi n e y a r ds 2008 shows through, and this will need to be drunk 88 Pinot Noir (Oregon); $25. This cap- n o w, rather than cellared. Aging in 80% new tures the sense of place and commitment to ele- French oak puts some toast into the finish. —P.G.

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E Methven Family Vi n e y a rds 2007 rough edges and would be a fine picnic wine. Del Rio Vi n e y a r ds 2007 Syrah 87 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette — P.G. 80 (Rogue Valley); $35. Thin, herbal, Valley); $55. For a reserve, this seems surpris- and tannic, this does not show much in the way ingly light, attenuated and acidic. The cran- Kason 2007 Black Label Pinot Noir of either varietal character or ripeness. —P.G. berry/strawberry fruit, of modest weight and 85 (Willamette Valley); $20. D i s t i n c- depth, offers barely a hint of the 100% new tive, with a strong flavor of cherry—much French oak—just a faint flavor of hazelnuts and beyond the usual cherry found in many red OTHER RED WINES milk chocolate. —P.G. wines. The fruit is backed with stiff tannins, slightly herbal, and a streak of vanilla/caramel. Sineann 2008 Red Table Wine RouteStock Cellars 2007 Pinot The finish is incomplete; the fruit drops off and 90 (Oregon); $16. This is the bottle you 87 Noir (Willamette Valley); $20. the wine turns gluey. —P.G. want on your table if the night is calling for burg- Sturdy and clean, this is a good, near-term, go-to ers, flank steak, tri-tip, Mexican, Southwest—in Pinot Noir. It’s got light berry and pomegranate Kathken Vi n e y a rds 2008 Reserve other words, food that is hearty, spicy and satisfy- fruit, tart acids, spicy herb highlights and firm 85 S i g n a t u re Pinot Noir (Willamette ing. The 2007 blend included old vine Zin, Reso- tannins. All the fruit flavor is front-loaded. —P.G. Valley); $27. Though lacking the weight and nance Pinot Noir, Baby Poux Cabernet and complexity generally associated with reserve more. Peter Rosback isn’t saying what’s in this Verve 2007 Stoller Vi n e y a rd Pinot wines, this delicate little Pinot offers pale red 2008, but you won’t care once you slug down the 87 Noir (Willamette Valley); $30. A fruits, tart acids and moderate tannins. Much like first glass. It’s just pure deliciousness, cherries whiff of leather to open, followed by plenty of a simple Bourgogne from a modest vintage. and chocolate galore. —P.G. cranberry and cherry fruit, balanced and medium — P.G. G r i ffin Creek 2007 Cabernet Franc bodied. Mocha and cola streaks run into ripe tan- Verve 2007 Momtazi Vi n e y a r d (Rogue Valley); $38. With its sharp nins. —P.G. 89 85 Pinot Noir (Willamette Va l l e y ) ; edges and muscular mouthfeel, this Cabernet $33. Westland 2008 Citizen’s Cuvée A chewy style, with lots of earthy, organic Franc has the power to stand up to a variety of Pinot Noir (Willamette Va l l e y ) ; flavors, but not much in the way of sweet fruit. roasted or toasted foods. The fruit is ripe and 87 Truffles, dried leaves and a bit of tomato can be supple, with lots of purple berries, plums and $22. Westland is the second label of Methven found, then it thins out quickly. —P.G. cassis. But what is best is the full-bodied finish, Family Vineyards. This seems sure to be a popu- whose tannins impart a distinctly varietal green lar wine—broadly fruity, lightly chocolaty, firmly tea character. —P.G. tannic, yet clearly varietal. The fruit brings cher- M E R L O T ries and berries, rounded out nicely with choco- WillaKenzie Estate 2007 Gamay late and coconut flavors. The wine shows some Griffin Creek 2007 Merlot (Rogue Noir (Willamette Valley); $25. A astringent tannins and finishing earthiness. 88 Valley); $30. The scents explode with delightful bottle, this fruit-packed Gamay has —P.G. 90 both dark fruit and dark chocolate, and flavors more stuffing and sweetness than most of the f o l l o w, all wrapped in stiff tannins. A serious Oregon Pinots from 2007. Plums, cherries and Cloudline 2008 Pinot Noir (Ore- effort, this spent 18 months in French oak. It’s a black currants ramble through the mouth, run- gon); $21. Cloudline wines are a pro- 86 muscular, deep, dark wine, substantial in every ning into some fairly stiff, chewy tannins. This is a ject of importer Dreyfus Ashby, vinified with way—fruit, tannin and alcohol. —P.G. s t u r d y, immediately drinkable, thoroughly enjoy- guidance from DDO’s Veronique Drouhin. It’s a able quaffer. —P.G. professional product, clean and straightforward, Del Rio Vi n e y a r ds 2007 Merlot with tart red fruits and striking acidity. The tan- 84 (Rogue Valley); $28. This is pure Chehalem 2008 Cerise (Ribbon nins, ripe and firm, provide some finishing heft. Merlot from southern Oregon, a style quite dis- 87 Ridge); $24. Cerise is Chehalem’s ver- —P.G. tinct from either Washington or California. It’s sion of a Passetoutgrains—80% Gamay Noir, tight, sharp and somewhat spindly, with cran- 20% Pinot Noir. Youthful, tasting of berries and Kason 2007 Barrel Select Pinot berry, wild strawberry and earthy flavors of bark spice, it hints at leafy herbs also. It’s a picnic 86 Noir (Willamette Valley); $24. T h i s and pepper. —P.G. wine—tangy and light, with cherries and rasp- is cool-climate Pinot Noir, with the attendant berries, and finished at just 12.7% alcohol. herbal flavors that bring in forest floor, pine nee- —P.G. dle, tomato leaf and bark. It’s spicy and sharp, S Y R A H focused and tannic, with a toasty finish from Del Rio Vi n e y a r ds 2007 Clare t aging in 60% new French oak barrels. —P.G. Griffin Creek 2007 Syrah (Rogue 82 (Rogue Valley); $35. This Claret 88 Valley); $38. Quite tart for a grape that combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec Del Rio Vi n e y a rds 2008 Pinot Noir usually is not known for its acidity, this sharp, and Cabernet Franc into a sturdy, tannic, slightly 85 (Rogue Valley); $28. A simple, pleas- spicy Syrah is loaded with concentrated cran- sweaty wine with only the barest hints of black ant Pinot Noir with suggestions of strawberries berry and raspberry fruit. It would be a fine com- fruits. The flavors seem focused on leaf and stem, and chocolate wafers. Light as a feather, it seems panion to roasted poultry, or pork with some sort especially the tannins, which do not taste quite almost weightless in the mouth, but it has no of red fruit sauce. —P.G. ripe. —P.G.

W i n e M a g . c o m talieu. Once again the fruit is crystal clear, setting is Pinot Gris that tastes quite a bit like Sauvignon OREGON up fresh pear, green apple and pink grapefruit Blanc: grassy and herbaceous, but with a little flavors against crisp, juicy acidity. The finish is more flesh, less acidity. Match it with shellfish WHITE WINES lively and spicy. —P.G. and light seafoods and it will do the trick; it’s fresh and bracing. —P.G. C H A R D O N N AY Chehalem 2008 Reserve Pinot 90 Gris (Willamette Valley); $24. This Evening Land Vi n e y a r ds 2007 is fermented in neutral barrels, so it is a rounder, PINOT BLANC 92 Summum Chardonnay (Eola- more open style than Pinot Gris done in stainless Amity Hills); $100. Pure and detailed, this steel. It is therefore more approachable at a Adelsheim 2008 Bryan Cre e k lovely Chardonnay carves its way through the young age, and also tastes leesy and creamy—a 90 Vi n e y a rd Pinot Blanc (Chehalem palate with layers of pear tart, apple crisp, treat for the palate. The fruit is lean and fresh, Mountains); $22. From estate vines planted in brioche and almond paste. It is an elegant wine, and a bracing minerality infuses the finish. 1993, this deeply fruity wine has a flavorful blend light and penetrating, with a finish that seems to —P.G. of banana and other tropical fruits with citrus and linger forever. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. citrus rind highlights. Full bodied, almost fleshy Methven Family Vi n e y a rds 2008 for a Pinot Blanc, its mouth-cleansing acidity Adelsheim 2008 Caitlin’s Reserve 89 Pinot Gris (Willamette Va l l e y ) ; leaves a fresh, lemony flavor on the tongue, ready 91 C h a rdon nay (Willamette Va l l e y ) ; $18. Tightly wound and spicy, this elegant wine for another sip or a bit of pasta, seafood or poul- $40. Still quite young yet unmistakably lush, this captures the varietal character with crisp pear try. —P.G. bottling immediately shows fresh apples, white fruit, annotated with minty anise. It’s tangy, sleek, peach and plenty of new oak from 100% barrel fine-boned and tart, fading gracefully as it winds Winter’s Hill Vineyard 2007 Pinot fermentation. The lip-smacking acidity keeps into a clean finish. —P.G. 85 Blanc (Dundee Hills); $18. Very light fruit and oak in balance; all that is needed is a bit fruit flavors of citrus and yellow apple. The wine more bottle age. Decant it if you plan to drink it B r an db or g 200 8 Pin ot G r is was done entirely in stainless steel, with no barrel immediately. —P.G. 88 (Umpqua Valley); $16. A bit of a aging, yet somehow a vanilla streak has snuck fruit salad of a Pinot Gris, with pineapple, into the finish. It’s yeasty and crisp, with a resid- Hamacher 2007 Cuvée Forêts banana, mango, white peach and jicama all in the ual flavor of wet steel. —P.G. 91 Diverses Chardonnay (Willamette mix. There is an underlying, bracing minerality Valley); $35. This soft and seductive wine is that keeps the wine focused and firm, and leads reminiscent of a good Chassagne-Montrachet into suggestions of toasted almond in the finish. R I E S L I N G from a relatively warm year. It has the same ripe, Delicious, yet quite different from most other lightly tropical fruit, inflected with citrus and Oregon versions. —P.G. Tr i s a e t u m 2 0 0 8 R i e s l i n g buoyed by firm acidity. The use of oak is 94 (Willamette Valley); $24. O r e g o n restrained, the balance perfect, and the finish Del Rio Vineyards 2008 Pinot Gris has always made great Rieslings, yet few of the long and satisfying. —P.G. 87 (Rogue Valley); $16. Clean and state’s winemakers have ever made it a priority. fresh, this food-friendly wine tastes of pear, Tr i s a e t u m ’s James Frey is out to change that, and Domaine Serene 2007 Clos du jicama and celery. It’s light and balanced, and is off to a great start. This 2008, like its predeces- 87 Soleil Chardonnay (Dundee Hills); would make a fine accompaniment to a spring- s o r, captures the complexity, grace and com- $45. This feels just a little bit thin, with a time salad or a simple fish course. —P.G. pelling charm of the grape. Dense and still light, yeasty/beery character. Highlights of lemon oil it brings honey, tea, lemon, nectarine, jasmine, and orange peel ripple through, into a finish with Ross Andrew 2008 Celilo Vi n e - lime, caramel and sweet nut flavors together, a a suggestion of heat. Further bottle age might 87 y a rd Pinot Gris (Columbia Gorge); riotous jumble that is beyond delicious. But wait; improve the score. —P.G. $16. Very tart and acidic, this is a wine that cries it will improve with cellaring. Editors’ Choice. out for oysters. The lemony fruit is highlighted —P.G. Del Rio Vineyards 2008 Chardon- with notes of ginger, celery and a broad mineral 85 nay (Rogue Valley); $20. T h e r e ’s streak. Nice complexity for such a low-alcohol Tr i s a e t u m 2 0 0 7 R i e s l i n g plenty of acid in this tart, sleek Chardonnay, and (12.4%), high-acid bottle. —P.G. 93 (Willamette Valley); $24. Done in a no obvious flavors from barrel aging or even mal- spätlese style, this off-dry wine is elegance per- olactic fermentation. It’s simple, crisp, and tastes Cloudline 2008 Pinot Gris (Ore- sonified. Complex flavors weave through the of green apples with a hint of cinnamon. —P.G. 85 gon); $15. This is an acid-lover’s Pinot palate—sweet hay, honey, citrus and stone fruits, Gris, quite tart and lemony. The lightly ripened breakfast tea, chamomile, jasmine. It just keeps fruit hints at green apples and pears, with nicely on going, while retaining a lightness and trans- PINOT GRIS managed phenolics that put an edge on the fin- parency that rivets your attention. E d i t o r s ’ ish. —P.G. Choice. —P.G. Soléna 2008 Pinot Gris (Oregon); 91 $20. As classy a bottle as you might Kathken Vi n e y a r ds 2008 Pinot Chehalem 2008 Corral Creek Ries- expect from veteran winemaker Laurent Mon- 84 Gris (Willamette Valley); $14. This 92 ling (Chehalem Mountains); $24.

W I N E S R E V I E W E D F O R T H E J U N E 2 0 1 0 I S S U E Very consistent in style with previous vintages, fresh, zesty flavor. Whole cluster pressed, stain- Anne Amie 2008 Cuvée A Amrita this textural, lemony, racy Riesling seems bone less steel fermentation, and 13% alcohol, it’s a 88 White Wine (Willamette Va l l e y ) ; d r y, though it is noted as having 1% residual wine to gulp down by the glass. Pure pleasure. $16. Young and yeasty, this six-variety blend cap- sugar. Along with rich flavors of grapefruit and —P.G. tures the floral spice of Gewürztraminer, and citrus, there are nectarine and pear fruit high- mixes in some grassy herb, gooseberry and melon lights and a sharp minerality. Cellar Selection. Argyle 2008 Riesling (Eola-Amity as well. An interesting, light, dry white wine per- —P.G. 87 Hills); $25. Though picked at 23.6 brix, fect for spring. —P.G. this Riesling reaches 14% alcohol and 1% resid- Amity Vi n e y a rds 2008 Dry Ries- ual sugar, an interesting combination of data. It’s Anne Amie 2008 Cuvée A Müller- 91 ling (Willamette Valley); $20. P o w- plenty concentrated, with a flavor mix of flower, 87 Thurgau (Willamette Valley); $14. erful scents mix dried herb, wet grass and sugar, honey and peach. A mouthful to be sure, Green melon and green apple fruit is lightly petrol—it could be mistaken for Sauvignon Blanc substantial and packed with flavor, though a little scented with aromas of white flowers and talc. in a blind tasting, and it has that much density heavy through the finish. —P.G. The big fruit, low alcohol, tart and tangy charac- and extract. The label says dry, and it is certainly ter of Müller-Thurgau is nicely showcased, with that, much in the Australian style. Big, concen- Elk Cove 2008 Late Harvest Ries- just a touch of residual sugar. —P.G. trated, high acid and quite cellarworthy. —P.G. 86 ling (Willamette Valley); $20. Though labeled late harvest, it’s really almost dry, Tuala tin Es t ate 2009 Sem i- B r a n d b o r g 2 0 0 8 R i e s l i n g with just enough sweetness to tickle the tongue. 85 Sparkling Muscat (Willamette 90 (Umpqua Valley); $16. A bracing, This is a straightforward, slightly sugary Riesling Valley); $15. Mildly spritzy, sweet and orange tart Riesling, quite dry and still under 13% alco- with a little honey and tea in the flavors. The fruit flavored, this low-alcohol, frizzanté-style bubbly hol, this mixes green apples, fresh citrus, pineap- is simple citrus, and there is a suggestion of is a very pleasant springtime quaffer. Serve it ple and unusual suggestions of clove and spice. toasted grain in the finish. —P.G. quite cold, and it can open or close a picnic in I t ’s a fine follow-up to the winery’s excellent 2007 style. —P.G. bottling, though perhaps not quite as concen- trated. —P.G. OTHER WHITE WINES

B r ooks 2008 Sweet P Riesling Brandborg 2008 Gewürztraminer 88 (Willamette Valley); $22. Lots of 92 (Umpqua Valley); $16. Fragrant, fas- honey is the first impression; this is under 10% cinating and flat-out delicious, this is one of the alcohol and over 5% residual sugar. Nicely bal- top offerings of Gewürztraminer from anywhere anced, it still has enough acidity to put a little in Oregon. Scents of rose petals, citrus oil, pine tartness in the midpalate. The fruit is pretty and needle and lime skin pour forth; the flavors are the honeyed flavors seductive; it’s not quite sweet crisply defined, elegant, lingering and in perfect enough for most desserts, but a fine apéritif. balance. Technically off-dry, this has the acidity —P.G. and focus to be most flexible with a wide variety of Asian foods. —P.G. Elk Cove 2008 Estate Riesling 88 (Willamette Valley); $19. There is a Ross Andrew 2008 Meadow (Ore- sharpness to the aroma, a pungent mix of pineap- 90 gon); $16. Mostly Pinot Blanc, this is ple and pine needle, that leads into a fairly light an excellent bottle, succulent and juicy, just palate with lemon oil, citrus fruit and a hint of 12.6% alcohol, which puts it in the European orange hard candy. Residual sugar near 2% helps camp. Mouthfilling citrus mixing lime, lemon, balance out the acidity. The wine tastes a bit like pineapple, orange and a bit of candied apricot all a Vouvray—the same sweet/sour tension. —P.G. contribute to this tasty wine. —P.G.

E v e r g reen Vi n e y a rds 2008 Spruce 88 Goose Riesling (Willamette Va l- ley); $20. Laurent Montalieu is the winemaker behind the Spruce Goose wines. This young L O VE GREAT W I N E , G R E AT FOOD AND GOOD T I M E S ? Riesling is a snappy, palate-awakening wine with Toast of the Town season (aka Spring) lemon-lime fruit, a hint of mint, fine length and a persistent, fresh finish. —P.G. is around the corner. San Francisco • Chicago • New York • Washington D. C . Ponzi 2008 Riesling (Willamette 88 Valley); $17. Ponzi makes very little w w w . w i n e e n t h u s i a s t . c o m / t o a s t / Riesling, which is a shame, because this is a big, full-bodied, leesy, mineral-soaked mouthful of

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