SYLHET DIVISION You Meethere

SYLHET DIVISION you meethere. thisloveof culturalbackground andspiritualityiswhatshinesthroughinallthepeople symbolises humanspirituality,whileKrishnaistheembodimentof divine love. Regardless dance, whichtells thestoryof Krishna’slove affairwiththefemale cowherd Radha. She mainstream Bangladeshilife. The best-known feature oftheirculture isthetribe’sclassical major tribalgroupofthearea are theMonipuri(Manipuri),muchmore integrated into Pangou (orKhasi), with theshyKhashia andTripura peopleisanexcitingnotion.Another friends hills, istriballandandfortheadventurous tomake anthropologist theopportunity on thefledglingBangladeshtouristmap. ing cuppathathasputthefriendlytownofSrimangal,insouthdivision,firmly to visitatea estate andlearnsomethingabouttheprocessesthatculminate inyourmorn- of tea annually,withmore than150tea estates spread over 40,000hectares. It’sthechance around thenumerousrivers andfruitplantations. intheforests forentertainment thatweave andlakes atapestry find endlessopportunities religious contentment, thisisastate outwiththenaturalistinmind.Suchpeoplewill kitted country. Aside fromtheregional capital,Sylhet,whichisatownofworldlyambitionand crowned inluridgreen tea plantations,isoneofthemore ofthe scenicallyattractive parts Damp andgreen Sylhet division,aplaceofmyriadwaterways hills andgentlebumplike Division Sylhet 146 © LonelyPlanetPublications The borderofthisdiverse area region, alongthenorthern atthefootofKhasi-Jaintia It istea, oflife though,thatisthereal here. heart Sylhetdivisionproducesover 55millionkg

HIGHLIGHTS Ticking pochardsandbee- offruddycrakes, Swinging throughthetrees ofthedensely Feeding blackmagicians withfishfoodat Learning thesecrets ofyourmorningcuppa Sunamganj eaters onthe vegetated a 14th-centurySufimysticinSylhet the Srimangal in themontageoftea estates surrounding in searchoftheelusive gibbons Shrine of Hazrat Shah Jalal Shrine ofHazratShah Lowacherra NationalPark ( p152) (p151) haors (wetlands)near (opposite ), (p154) Sunamganj Srimangal Shrine ofHazrat Shah Jalal Lowacherra National Park SYLHET DIVISION , . 147 Rama Raja’s Tilla Osmani Museum , a 14th-century Sufi 14th-century , a 10.30am-5.30pm Sat-Wed, 3-8pm Fri h The pond in front of the shrine complex The pond in front of Nearby, on a hillock named The complex is thronging with people The complex is thronging with people slightly less interesting than an algebra lesson. than an algebra slightly interesting less It contains thrilling articles as a ‘chair’ such (and that is exactly what it is). Electricity is a lucky you’ll hit-and-miss affair and if you’re around with an oil a man following you get for you. the displays lamp to illuminate disabled people asking for alms, so if you disabled for alms, so if you people asking small change bring plenty of wish to donate with you. views of blocked some partially you can get that the city. Legend has it a Hindu temple was destroyed by an earth- once stood here Jalal. Shah by instigated quake, MUSEUM OSMANI town and of near the centre In Nur Manzil, Noya Sarok Rd, is the east of (admission free; This small, colonial-era house to is dedicated in the Liberation figure General a key Osmani, tourist sights in the few it’s one of As War. town, you should visit, but be warned – it’s visit the shrine, though it seems to be OK suitably solemn and well dressed. if you are not allowed definitely Women, however, are the tomb. up to by fed catfish that are is filled with sacred meta- according to legend, pilgrims and are, the Hindu raja morphosed black magicians of Jalal by Shah was defeated who Gour Govinda, in 1303. Nearby is a deep, dark well contain- What exactly that ing something mysterious. a little uncertain – if our translation is remains it’s a giant goldfish with ‘Allah’ was correct, again it might but then on its forehead, written monster! Ness the Loch be just as likely day and night, and including many beggars Sights Sights JALAL SHAH OF HAZRAT SHRINE Airport Rd, is the off the city, of In the north Shrine Shah of Hazrat Jalal pil- the biggest saint. shrine is one of The country and a fascinating in the sites grimage Beingplace to visit. near the saint buried is sword Jalal’s Shah honour. a great considered preserved new are the large within and robes The tomb is on display. mosque, but aren’t brocade, and at night the with rich covered with candles. space around it is illuminated It’s never magical. is quite The atmosphere clear whether non-Muslims can entirely Apr-Sep, 9.30am-4. 30pm Sat-Wed, 3-8pm Fri30pm Sat-Wed, Oct-Mar) Apr-Sep, 9.30am-4.

(Airport Rd)

). ‘assistants’ are paid ‘assistants’ are Ahana Net & Cyber Café SYLHET DIVISION •• Sylhet 9am-8pm; per hr Tk 20 9am-8pm; per hr Tk Standard Chartered Bank h

0821 There are only a couple of internet cafés internet only a couple of are There Zinda Bazar Rd is littered with restaurants with restaurants Zinda Bazar Rd is littered

There is a There

Jaintiapur Rd; SYLHET SYLHET ity of British Bangladeshis are from the city from Bangladeshis are British ity of in town and none offer fast connections. fast connections. in town and none offer The most central one is and shopping centres, as is the intersection of of as is the intersection centres, and shopping Rds. Taltala and Telihaor Tk 2 for their service. is almost a This bridge sight in its own right – only a subcontinental humanity. bridge could contain so much seething seething could contain so much bridge rickshaw-pushers; theserickshaw-pushers; bombers during the Liberation War. In mak- during the Liberation War. bombers aided by are rickshaw-pullers ing the crossing, paired after being damaged by Pakistani by Pakistani being damaged after paired ( On the south side of the Surma River you’ll the Surma River On the south side of find the train and bus stations, but not much by two bridges. is traversed The river more. one, was re- central the more Bridge, Kean Orientation & Information Orientation & Information an almost essential stop for anyone who wants this country. of something to understand won’t fail to notice the dozens of adverts and adverts won’t fail to notice the dozens of life billboards promising easy visas to a better in the US, UK and other European countries. These Sylhet startling contrasts help to make than others) than anywhere else in the country. than anywhere than others) for Bangladesh, you also depressingly More people here speaking with a strong Brummie speaking with people here genuine or East more London accent (some you’re almost certainly going to meet more almost certainly going to meet more you’re to the city as a whole and that Sylhet is actu- to the city as a whole and with shoes too than a village ally little more the one of this, it remains big for it. Despite most cosmopolitan towns in Bangladesh and but a façade of half-emptybut a façade of sari shops. It doesn’t façade extends that this long to realise take money have taken over the centre, but on en- the centre, over taken money have nothing that they’re one you discover tering Western-style shopping malls built on their shopping malls Western-style into the local economy and this has helped economy and this has into the local city centres surreal the most one of to create flashy apparently in Bangladesh. A string of or its environs and are likely to wax lyrical likely and are or its environs ties to Those the place. with stronger over back continue to pour money the homeland % lonelyplanet.com Sylhet is a strange kind of place. The major- place. kind of is a strange Sylhet with an ATM opposite Darga Gate, and oth- Gate, Darga opposite with an ATM and the Surma Asia below both the Hotel ers Rest House. Valley SYLHET DIVISION 148 Sunamganj (50km) Chhatak (25km); Bus Station(3km); To Sunamganj SYLHET

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Shagorika Restaurant...... New GreenRestaurant...... Mia FazilRestaurant...... Jamania Restaurant...... Hamadan Restaurant...... Famous Restaurant...... (see19) Burger King...... Shrine ofHazratShahJalal...... aaRj' il...... B3 Rama Raja'sTilla...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION United...... (see 21) Greenline BusCompany...... GMG Airlines...... Agra Hotel&Restaurant...... Surma ValleyRestHouse...... Hotel HolySide...... Hotel Hilltown...... Hotel Gulshan...... Hotel FortuneGarden...... Hotel EastEnd...... Hotel Asia...... Ramakrishna Mission...... Osmani Museum...... Standard CharteredBank...... Standard CharteredBank...... (see7) Standard CharteredBank...... (see13) Ahana Net&CyberCafé......

a l Bazar Mira 5 To Madhabkunda Waterfall (60km) lonelyplanet.com Bus Station(2.5km); Khadim Bazar(9km) Shahparan (7km); To Jaintiapur 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B4 B3 B3 A4 A4 B4 A4 B4 B4 B4 B4 A3 A5 B4 C4 A4 B4 B3 C4 C4 B3 SYLHET DIVISION 149 The meals Tk , which , which ( Shagorika , 712 671; Shah Jalal 715 590; www.hotel 715 590; (meals Tk 50) Sylhet’s top-dog Sylhet’s top-dog ) (Zinda Bazar Rd; meals (Zinda Bazar Rd; meals % 812 872; 4th fl, Al-Hamra (

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and the unmistakably % ( (Zinda Bazar Rd; meals Tk 60)

(meals Tk 40-50) ai Famous Restaurant Famous This sparkling and central This sparkling and central ) a (Zinda Bazar Rd; meals Tk 50-100)

(meals Tk 40-50) Jamania Restaurant As full of character as it is full of as it is full of character full of As

Hamadan Restaurant Agra Hotel & Restaurant Burger King Mia Restaurant Fazil Hotel Fortune Garden RestSurma Valley House ), which is on the same road. is on the ), which Shopping Centre, Zinda Bazar Rd; dishes from Tk 150-200) Shopping Centre, This is Sylhet’s special-occasion restaurant from the heat and it’s certainly a nice break the food, Unfortunately and crush outside. is mainly Chinesewhich and Thai, is hardly salads had tomato the fuss – we’ve worthy of One of tonnes of identical Bengali tonnes of restau- One of rants. This one reserves a warm welcome for room for you, no and always makes foreigners how busy (and it normally is). Look for matter Bengali sign. the yellow around Tk 60) tucked this popular restaurant, characters, privacy you much away in a corner, won’t give you but will give with its cramped quarters, great food. name might but nothing else ring a bell about burg- will. Its greasy restaurant this 2nd-floor a welcome break will provide and kebabs ers from all that healthy rice (don’t worry, it’s the heart). good for huge, the space is nicely used and full of little the space is nicely used and full of huge, In fact the only minus point homely touches. to a is its proximity we could come up with that 5am prayer call noisy mosque, but surely on you! will grow Eating you’ll area, staying in the Telihaor If you’re including the friendly choices, lots of have New Green Restaurant Restaurant turquoise For from travellers. reviews rave receives posher, and we mean something marginally try the marginally, with air-con from Tk 1400; with air-con from Rd; r from Tk 1450; and certainly home about is one to write hotel in Bangladesh. hotels the better-value one of comfortable enough to mean that Rooms are will be an effort,leaving and though not fortunegarden.com; d Tk 700/1000, Bongobir Rd; s/d 29A hotel is sterile to the core and offers no hint no hint and offers core to the is sterile hotel being in Bangladesh, but it does ex- of offer for takaceptional value know a de- and you cent night’s kip is guaranteed. staff The are entertainingly disorganised. 60 Ramakrishna SYLHET •• Sylhet DIVISION A long-time favourite A long-time favourite ) This friendly hotel with This friendly hotel ) 716 077; Telihaor Rd; s with/with- 716 077; Telihaor Do yourself a favour and Do yourself a favour 722 278; Dorga Rd; s/d from Tk ) 717 263; Taltala Rd; s/d Tk 300/500, 717 263; Taltala 719 210; Telihaor Rd; s/d Tk 150/300, Rd; s/d Tk 150/300, 719 210; Telihaor a a % % a ( 711 278; Bandar Bazar; s/d Tk 100/300, 711 278; Bandar %

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A very good value midrange/top- A very ) , where Hindu melas are often held. often melas are Hindu , where a

The range of rooms on offer at this old rooms on offer of The range ) Hotel Gulshan Hotel Hilltown Hotel Asia

Hotel East End A block to the northeast is the is the to the northeast A block posite the maidan, which ensures something ensures the maidan, which posite is always taking place right outsideinteresting room rates. Add an extra 15% tax to the door. eardrums take a battering), invitingly soft beds invitingly soft a battering), eardrums take sloshy in. It’s op- and clean bathtubs to get Hotel Holy Side 650/950; MIDRANGE & TOP END MIDRANGE & TOP END All rooms are clean and some have sit-down clean and some have All rooms are toilets and TV, the most expensive but only doesn’t The restaurant hot water. ones have partaking in. worth an atmosphere have as Bangladesh and much better managed. managed. better as Bangladesh and much d with air-con Tk 800; to Sylhet and easily the best in with visitors is almost as big its class, this enormous hotel of travel agencies situated just outside and situated agencies travel of too. site on a good restaurant there’s standard air-con doubles are better than most. better doubles are standard air-con from the handful car hire You can arrange Rooms are tiled and clean but lack character, tiled and clean but lack character, Rooms are can be a bit long and lonely. The and corridors stand-by fills an entire A4 sheet, which means which A4 sheet, fills an entire stand-by almost everyone can find something suitable. more more hygienic. tiled floors which just make everything much everything much just make which tiled floors bang for your buck. The rooms are im- The rooms are bang for your buck. the non– clean, though strangely maculately deal, thanks to the better rooms are air-con d with air-con Tk 1000; without stains Go for one without and mess. value. better as they are air-con a colourful neighbourhood. The rooms are are The rooms a colourful neighbourhood. that come treats plain and honest budget d with air-con Tk 800; in the heart of at this hotel grab a bargain

A number of budget hotels are in the centre in the centre are hotels budget A number of Rd, and in along Taltala town, in Taltala, of area. Telihaor the adjoining Sleeping Sleeping BUDGET Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Mission end establishment. This welcoming place has Hazrat to the shrine of proximity the bonus of (thoughclose it’s not so that your Jalal Shah a out air-con Tk 255/850, d with/without air-con Tk 350/1000; easy English-speaking staff represents good staffeasy English-speaking represents