© Lonely Planet Publications 146 Sylhet Division Damp and green Sylhet division, a place of myriad waterways and gentle bumplike hills crowned in lurid green tea plantations, is one of the more scenically attractive parts of the country. Aside from the regional capital, Sylhet, which is a town of worldly ambition and religious contentment, this is a state kitted out with the naturalist in mind. Such people will find endless opportunities for entertainment in the forests and lakes that weave a tapestry around the numerous rivers and fruit plantations. It is tea, though, that is the real heart of life here. Sylhet division produces over 55 million kg SYLHET DIVISION of tea annually, with more than 150 tea estates spread over 40,000 hectares. It’s the chance to visit a tea estate and learn something about the processes that culminate in your morn- ing cuppa that has put the friendly town of Srimangal, in the south of the division, firmly on the fledgling Bangladesh tourist map. The area along the northern border of this diverse region, at the foot of the Khasi-Jaintia hills, is tribal land and for the adventurous anthropologist the opportunity to make friends with the shy Khashia (or Khasi), Pangou and Tripura people is an exciting notion. Another major tribal group of the area are the Monipuri (Manipuri), much more integrated into mainstream Bangladeshi life. The best-known feature of their culture is the tribe’s classical dance, which tells the story of Krishna’s love affair with the female cowherd Radha. She symbolises human spirituality, while Krishna is the embodiment of divine love. Regardless of cultural background this love and spirituality is what shines through in all the people you meet here. HIGHLIGHTS Learning the secrets of your morning cuppa in the montage of tea estates surrounding Srimangal ( p152 ) Sunamganj Feeding black magicians with fish food at the Shrine of Hazrat Shah Jalal ( opposite ), Shrine of Hazrat a 14th-century Sufi mystic in Sylhet Shah Jalal Swinging through the trees of the densely vegetated Lowacherra National Park ( p154 ) Lowacherra in search of the elusive gibbons National Park Ticking off ruddy crakes, pochards and bee- Srimangal eaters on the haors (wetlands) near Sunamganj ( p151 ) lonelyplanet.com SYLHET DIVISION •• Sylhet 147 SYLHET Sights %0821 SHRINE OF HAZRAT SHAH JALAL Sylhet is a strange kind of place. The major- In the north of the city, off Airport Rd, is the ity of British Bangladeshis are from the city Shrine of Hazrat Shah Jalal, a 14th-century Sufi or its environs and are likely to wax lyrical saint. The shrine is one of the biggest pil- over the place. Those with stronger ties to grimage sites in the country and a fascinating the homeland continue to pour money back place to visit. Being buried near the saint is into the local economy and this has helped considered a great honour. Shah Jalal’s sword to create one of the most surreal city centres and robes are preserved within the large new in Bangladesh. A string of apparently flashy mosque, but aren’t on display. The tomb is Western-style shopping malls built on their covered with rich brocade, and at night the SYLHET DIVISION money have taken over the centre, but on en- space around it is illuminated with candles. tering one you discover that they’re nothing The atmosphere is quite magical. It’s never but a façade of half-empty sari shops. It doesn’t entirely clear whether non-Muslims can take long to realise that this façade extends visit the shrine, though it seems to be OK to the city as a whole and that Sylhet is actu- if you are suitably solemn and well dressed. ally little more than a village with shoes too Women, however, are definitely not allowed big for it. Despite this, it remains one of the up to the tomb. most cosmopolitan towns in Bangladesh and The pond in front of the shrine complex you’re almost certainly going to meet more is filled with sacred catfish that are fed by people here speaking with a strong Brummie pilgrims and are, according to legend, meta- or East London accent (some more genuine morphosed black magicians of the Hindu raja than others) than anywhere else in the country. Gour Govinda, who was defeated by Shah Jalal More depressingly for Bangladesh, you also in 1303. Nearby is a deep, dark well contain- won’t fail to notice the dozens of adverts and ing something mysterious. What exactly that billboards promising easy visas to a better life is remains a little uncertain – if our translation in the US, UK and other European countries. was correct, it’s a giant goldfish with ‘Allah’ These startling contrasts help to make Sylhet written on its forehead, but then again it might an almost essential stop for anyone who wants just as likely be the Loch Ness monster! to understand something of this country. The complex is thronging with people day and night, including many beggars and Orientation & Information disabled people asking for alms, so if you On the south side of the Surma River you’ll wish to donate bring plenty of small change find the train and bus stations, but not much with you. more. The river is traversed by two bridges. Nearby, on a hillock named Rama Raja’s Tilla, Kean Bridge, the more central one, was re- you can get some partially blocked views of paired after being damaged by Pakistani the city. Legend has it a Hindu temple that bombers during the Liberation War. In mak- once stood here was destroyed by an earth- ing the crossing, rickshaw-pullers are aided by quake, instigated by Shah Jalal. rickshaw-pushers; these ‘assistants’ are paid Tk 2 for their service. This bridge is almost a OSMANI MUSEUM sight in its own right – only a subcontinental In Nur Manzil, near the centre of town and bridge could contain so much seething east of Noya Sarok Rd, is the Osmani Museum humanity. (admission free; h10.30am-5.30pm Sat-Wed, 3-8pm Fri Zinda Bazar Rd is littered with restaurants Apr-Sep, 9.30am-4. 30pm Sat-Wed, 3-8pm Fri Oct-Mar). and shopping centres, as is the intersection of This small, colonial-era house is dedicated to Telihaor and Taltala Rds. General Osmani, a key figure in the Liberation There are only a couple of internet cafés War. As it’s one of the few tourist sights in in town and none offer fast connections. town, you should visit, but be warned – it’s The most central one is Ahana Net & Cyber Café slightly less interesting than an algebra lesson. (Jaintiapur Rd; h9am-8pm; per hr Tk 20). It contains such thrilling articles as a ‘chair’ There is a Standard Chartered Bank (Airport Rd) (and that is exactly what it is). Electricity is a with an ATM opposite Darga Gate, and oth- hit-and-miss affair and if you’re lucky you’ll ers below both the Hotel Asia and the Surma get a man following you around with an oil Valley Rest House. lamp to illuminate the displays for you. 148 SYLHET DIVISION •• Sylhet lonelyplanet.com 0 1 km SYLHET 0 0.5 miles To Laakatoorah & Malnicherra INFORMATION Tea Estates(4km); Ahana Net & Cyber Café...............1 B4 Airport (6km) Standard Chartered Bank...........(see 13) Standard Chartered Bank.............(see 7) Standard Chartered Bank................2 B3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Osmani Museum...........................3 C4 Rama Raja's Tilla.............................4 B3 Ramakrishna Mission.....................5 C4 Shrine of Hazrat Shah Jalal.............6 B3 To Sunamganj Bus Station (3km); SLEEPING Chhatak (25km); Sunamganj (50km) Hotel Asia.......................................7 B4 Hotel East End................................8 A4 Hotel Fortune Garden....................9 C4 Hotel Gulshan..............................10 B4 Hotel Hilltown..............................11 A5 Hotel Holy Side............................12 A3 A mbe rhkana Rd Surma Valley Rest House..............13 B4 EATING SYLHET DIVISION Agra Hotel & Restaurant..............14 B4 Burger King..................................15 B4 Famous Restaurant....................(see 19) Hamadan Restaurant....................16 B4 d R Noorjahan Jamania Restaurant......................17 A4 t 6 22 r o Hospital Mia Fazil Restaurant.....................18 B4 p Darga r i 2 New Green Restaurant.................19 A4 A d Gate Shagorika Restaurant...................20 A4 R Manru a Maidan g Shopping 12 r o City 4 TRANSPORT D GMG Airlines................................21 B3 21 d d anikpur R Hospital Rd R M Greenline Bus Company...............22 B3 r a United........................................(see 21) z Chowhatta Stadium a Intersection B Hospital a d n To Jaintiapur i Z Bus Station (2.5km); 14 Shahparan (7km); d 16 Aarong Mira Khadim Bazar (9km) R Hospital t Bazar a Wahid View h Shopping Jain 9 G Cyber tiap Complex ur Rd 5 h Point k i 1 a h 15 Zinda 3 S Sylhet Nur Bazar Manzil 18 Plaza N Taltala 7 oy a Sarok Rd 10 Bandar Bazar 17 8 2019 l Rd Kastag T Jala har Rd alta ah la Rd Sh 13Town Tel d ihaor R S Hall 11 w i Telihaor m a R d Kean S Bridge urm a R iver d R t e h l y Dhaka S - Bus a k Terminal a d h S ta R D t ion Train Shah Jalal Station Bridge Za k i g d a R n j j R n a d g u h c n e F To Srimangal (80km); To Madhabkunda Dhaka (350km) Waterfall (60km) Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels SYLHET DIVISION •• Sylhet 149 A block to the northeast is the Ramakrishna Hotel Fortune Garden (%715 590; www.hotel Mission, where Hindu melas are often held.