Travel information from A to Z

The Way of St. James through Navarre

The Camino Francés: through Rioja

through Castile/León

through Galicia

The Way to Finisterre, Index

(rg) Heading to Boadilla del Camino (ss) Volume 23e Outdoor Guidebook Raimund Joos

Camino de Santiago St. Jean - Santiago - Finisterre Camino de Santiago

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All information, written and drawn, was assembled and audited to the best of the author’s knowledge. It was correct at the time of research. A guarantee for the content’s current accuracy (e.g. the exact current correctness of prices, addresses, telephone and fax numbers, as well as internet addresses, times, and other specifications) naturally cannot be given by the publisher or the author and, therefore, product liability cannot be assumed.

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This Outdoor Guidebook has 288 pages, 109 color pictures, 71 color map extracts, 52 color elevation profiles, and 1 color general map. It was printed on non-chlorinated bleached paper, climate-neutrally produced and transported in Germany, and due to its greater durability, bound with PUR glue.

This book is available in bookstores and many outdoor stores, and can be ordered online or directly from the publisher. 5

Outdoor Guidebook from the series “The Way is the Goal”, Volume 23e

ISBN 978-3-86686-517-4 1st Edition 2016

© BASIC KNOWLEDGE FOR OUTDOORS, THE WAY IS THE GOAL, AND WANDERLUST BOOKS ARE COPYRIGHTED NAMES OF BOOK SERIES’ FROM CONRAD STEIN PUBLISHING

Also available as an e-book (ISBN 978-3-86920-011-8).

This Outdoor guidebook was planned and editorially created by Conrad Stein Publishing GmbH, Kiefernstraße 6, 59514 Welver, Germany t 00 49 (0)23 84/96 39 12, f 00 49 (0)23 84/96 39 13, E-Mail:  [email protected], Internet:  http://www.conrad-stein-verlag.de

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Text: Raimund Joos Pictures: Raimund Joos (rj), Silvia Schubert (ss), Christian Stadler (cs), Ingeborg Käthner (ik), Stefan Vossemer (sv), Donald Walter (dw), Gerhard Treiber (gt), Reinhold Großelohmann (rg) Maps: Heide Schwinn Translation: Anke Weinandy, Rip Dylan Editor: Angela Sánchez-Martín Layout: Amrei Risse Production: Werbedruck GmbH Horst Schreckhase

Cover picture: Bridge of Puente la Reina (© Jean F. Walhain) Content

About the Author, the Translators and Editors 11

Prefaces 12 Important Preliminary Observations / For the Use of this Outdoor Guide! 15

Introduction 18 History and Presence: The Compostelas and Different The Pilgrimage to Santiago 20 Pilgrims’ Performance Certificates 24 Reasons for a Pilgrimage 21 The Pilgrim’s Staff 27 The Scallop 23 The Holy Year 27 The Catholic Pilgrims Credential 24

Travel Information from A to Z 28 Accommodation 30 Language 43 Calling and Internet 34 Medical Supply 43 Climate and Travel Time 34 Money 44 Cyclists 35 Mail 44 Dogs 37 Shopping 44 Drinking Water 37 Signposts and Way Directions 45 Emergency Hotline 38 Stages 46 Equipment 38 St. James Associations First Aid 41 (Pilgrims’ Associations) 46 Food and Drinks 42 Up-to-date information / new edition 47 Holidays 43

The Way of St. James through Navarre 48 The Camino Aragonés 50 Travel to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 808.6 50 Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port - Huntto 5.4 km 803.2 54 Huntto - Orisson 2.3 km 800.9 56 Orisson - Roncesvalles 18.9 km 782.0 57 (Bicycle-)Alternative: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port - Roncesvalles 28.7 km 59 Roncesvalles - Espinal 7.0 km 775.0 61 Espinal - Viscarret (4,9 km) - Zubiri 15.7 km 759.3 62 Zubiri - Larrasoaña 5.6 km 753.7 65 Larrasoaña - Zabaldika 7.2 km 746.5 66 7

Zabaldika - Arre/Villava 3.7 km 742.8 67 Villava - Pamplona 3.8 km 739.0 68 Pamplona - Cizur Menor 5.1 km 733.9 74 Cizur Menor - Zariquiegui 6.5 km 727.4 74 Zariquiegui - Uterga 6.0 km 721.4 75 Uterga - Muruzábal - Eunate - Obanos 7.1 km 714.3 76 Obanos - Puente la Reina 3.1 km 711.2 78 Puente la Reina - Mañeru 4.3 km 706.9 81 Mañeru - Cirauqui 2.8 km 704.1 81 Cirauqui - Lorca 6.1 km 698.0 82 Lorca - Villatuerta 4.8 km 693.2 83 Villatuerta - Estella/Ayegui 5.6 km 687.6 84 Estella/Ayegui - Villamayor de Monjardín 8.1 km 679.5 86 Villamayor de Monjardín - Los Arcos 12.5 km 667.0 87 Los Arcos - Sansol/Torres del Río 8.0 km 659.0 89 Torres del Río - Viana 11.0 km 648.0 90 Viana - Logroño 10.0 km 638.0 92

The Camino Francés through Rioja 94 Logroño - Navarrete 12.4 km 625.6 97 Navarrete - Ventosa 7.0 km 618.6 99 Ventosa - Nájera 10.3 km 608.3 100 Nájera - Azofra 6.4 km 601.9 103 Azofra - Cirueña (Town Entrance) 9.1 km 592.8 104 Cirueña - Santo Domingo de la Calzada 7.3 km 585.5 104 Santo Domingo de la Calzada - Grañón 6.8 km 578.7 108 Grañón - Redecilla del Camino 4.0 km 574.7 109

The Camino Francés through Castile/León 110 Redecilla del Camino - Viloria 3.8 km 570.9 111 Viloria - Villamayor 3.2 km 567.7 112 Villamayor - Belorado 5.4 km 562.3 112 Belorado - Tosantos 4.7 km 557.6 114 Tosantos - Espinosa del Camino - Villafranca Montes de Oca 7,6 km 550.0 115 Villafranca Montes de Oca - San Juan de Ortega 12.5 km 537.5 117 San Juan de Ortega - Agés 3.7 km 533.8 119 8 Inhalt

Agés - Atapuerca 2.6 km 531.2 119 Atapuerca - Orbaneja de Ríopico (Highway Crossing) 9.6 km 521.6 121 Orbaneja de Ríopico (Highway Crossing) - Burgos 11.0 km 510.6 123 Burgos - Tardajos 11.1 km 499.5 130 Tardajos - Rabé de las Calzadas 2.4 km 497.1 131 Rabé de las Calzadas - Hornillos del Camino 7.9 km 489.2 132 Hornillos del Camino - Hontanas 11.0 km 478.2 133 Hontanas - San Antón - Castrojeriz 9.8 km 468.4 135 Castrojeriz - San Nicolás 9.5 km - Itero de la Vega 11.5 km 456.9 137 Itero de la Vega - Boadilla del Camino 8.8 km 448.1 139 Boadilla del Camino - Frómista 5.9 km 442.2 140 Frómista - Población de Campos 3.5 km 438.7 142 Recommended side route: Población de Campos - Villalcázar de Sirga 11.5 km 427.2 143 Población de Campos - Villarmentero 6.1 km 144 Villarmentero - Villalcázar de Sirga 4.6 km 145 Villalcázar de Sirga - Carrión de los Condes 5.5 km 421.7 145 Carrión de los Condes - Calzadilla de la Cueza 18.0 km 403.7 147 Calzadilla de la Cueza - Ledigos 6.6 km 397.1 150 Ledigos - Terradillos de los Templarios 3.5 km 393.6 150 Terradillos de los Templarios - Moratinos 3.4 km 390.2 151 Moratinos - San Nicolás 2.7 km 387.5 151 San Nicolás - Sahagún 7.4 km 380.1 152 Sahagún - Split-off to 4.3 km 375.8 153 Recommended Side Route (Calzada Romana) Part 1: Split-off to Calzada del Coto - Calzadilla de los Hermanillos 9.2 km 154 Recommended Side Route (Calzada Romana) Part 2: Calzadilla de los Hermanillos - Reliegos 18.5 km 156 Main Way Part 1: Split-off to Calzada del Coto - Bercianos del Real Camino 6.2 km 369.6 158 Main Way Part 2: Bercianos del Real Camino - 7.8 km 361.8 158 Main Way Part 3: El Burgo Ranero - Reliegos 12.5 km 349.3 159 Reliegos - 6.6 km 342.7 160 Mansilla de las Mulas - Puente Villarente 6.2 km 336.5 160 Puente Villarente - Arcahueja 4.3 km 332.2 162 Arcahueja - León (Cathedral) 8.1 km 324.1 162 León (Cathedral) - La Virgen del Camino (Refuge/Junction) 7.9 km 316.2 169 Inhalt 9

Way Alternative  - Part 1: Junction La Virgen del Camino - Villar de Mazarife 13.8 km 302.4 170 Way Alternative  - Part 2: Villar de Mazarife - Villavante 9.9 km 292.5 172 Way Alternative  - Part 3: Villavante - Hospital de Órbigo 5.0 km 287.5 172 Way Alternative : Junction La Virgen del Camino - Hospital de Órbigo 25.3 km 173 Hospital de Órbigo - Villares de Órbigo 2.6 km 284.9 176 Villares de Órbigo - Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias 2.6 km 282.3 177 Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias - Astorga 12.8 km 269.5 177 Astorga - Murias de Rechivaldo 4.5 km 265.0 179 Murias de Rechivaldo - Santa Catalina de Somoza 4.4 km 260.6 180 Santa Catalina de Somoza - El Ganso 4.6 km 256.0 182 El Ganso - Rabanal del Camino 7.2 km 248.8 183 Rabanal del Camino - Foncebadón 5.9 km 242.9 184 Foncebadón - Manjarín - El Acebo 11.1 km 231.8 186 El Acebo - Riego de Ambrós 3.0 km 228.8 188 Riego de Ambrós - (Town Exit) 5.5 km 223.3 189 Molinaseca (Town Exit) - 6.9 km 216.4 191 Ponferrada - Columbrianos 5.0 km 211.4 194 Columbrianos - 5.1 km 206.3 194 Camponaraya - /Pieros 7.7 km 198.6 195 Cacabelos/Pieros - 7.4 km 191.2 197 Recommended Side Route: “Camino Duro” Villafranca del Bierzo - 11.9 km 201 Main Way: Villafranca del Bierzo - Pereje 5.3 km 185.9 203 Pereje - Trabadelo 4.7 km 181.2 204 Trabadelo - Portela/Ambasmestas 5.4 km 175.8 204 Ambasmestas - 1.7 km 174.1 205 Vega de Valcarce - Ruitelán 2.2 km 171.9 206 Ruitelán - Herrerías 1.4 km 170.5 207 Herrerías - La Faba 4.4 km 166.1 207 La Faba - Laguna de Castilla 2.3 km 163.8 208 Laguna de Castilla - O Cebreiro 2.7 km 161.1 208

The Camino Francés through Galicia 211 O Cebreiro - Hospital da Condesa 5.5 km 155.6 213 Hospital da Condesa - Alto do Poio 3.2 km 152.4 214 Alto do Poio - Fonfría 3.5 km 148.9 214 Fonfría - Filloval 5.7 km 143.2 215 10 Inhalt

Filloval - Triacastela 4.1 km 139.1 216 Way Alternative  Part 1: Triacastela - Calvor - San Mamede 14.7 km 124.4 218 Way Alternative  Part 2: San Mamede - Sarria 4.5 km 119.9 220 Way Alternative  Part 1: Triacastela - San Cristovo do Real/Lusío 4.4 km 222 Way Alternative  Part 2: San Cristovo do Real/Lusío - Samos 5.8 km 223 Way Alternative  Part 3: Samos – San Mamede 10.8 km 224 Sarria - Barbadelo 4.3 km 115.6 225 Barbadelo - Marzán -Morgade - Ferreiros 9.8 km 105.8 226 Ferreiros - Mercadoiro 3.6 km 102.2 228 Mercadoiro - Portomarin 5.6 km 96.6 228 Portomarín - Gonzar 8.1 km 88.5 231 Gonzar - Hospital da Cruz 3.8 km 84.7 232 Hospital da Cruz - Ventas de Narón 1.5 km 83.2 233 Ventas de Narón - Ligonde/Airexe 4.3 km 78.9 234 Airexe - Palas de Rei 8.0 km 70.9 234 Palas de Rei - San Xulián/Ponte Campaña/Casanova 5.8 km 65.1 237 Casanova - Melide 9.6 km 55.5 238 Melide - Boente 5.7 km 49.8 240 Boente - Ribadiso (Town Exit) 6.5 km 43.3 242 Ribadiso - Arzúa (Town Exit) 2.5 km 40.8 242 Arzúa (Town Exit) - Salceda 11.5 km 29.3 244 Salceda - Santa Irene 5.0 km 24.3 246 Santa Irene - Junction Pedrouzo - Pedrouzo (Community Arca) 3.1 km 21.2 247 Junction Pedrouzo - Monte do Gozo 16.5 km 4.7 249 Monte do Gozo - Santiago de Compostela 4.7 km 0.0 251 Return Travel 263

The Way to Finisterre 93.5 264 Santiago de Compostela - Negreira 23.0 km 70.5 267 Negreira - Vilaserío 13.3 km 57.2 270 Vilaserío - Santa Mariña 8.6 km 48.6 272 Santa Mariña - Ponte Olveira - Olveiroa 12.4 km 36.2 272 Olveiroa - Logoso 3.8 km 32.4 274 Logoso - Cée (Town Exit) 16.9 km 15.5 274 Cée - Corcubión 2.2 km 13.3 277 Corcubión - Fisterra 9.8 km 3.5 278 Fisterra - Cape Finisterre 3.5 km 0.0 282

Index 284 30 Travel Information from A to Z Accommodation Hotels, Boarding Houses and Guest houses On the Way you will find many hotels, hostels, (smaller hotels) and boarding houses. A detailed description of all the possibilities would burst the seams of this pilgrims’ guide. Under the symbol H you will find hints where you can inquire for accommo- dation, and approximately how high the price is. However, the prices can change very quickly and drastically, depending on the season. In general, the tourist information offices are always the appropriate place to consult. The costs normally start at € 20 per person, and occasionally slightly less. The Web page www.gronze.com, so far only in Spanish, offers in addition to the description of refuges the addresses and prices of boarding houses and hotels on the Way to internet affined pilgrims. The link www.booking.com also leads you to their descriptions but with different language options on the upper menu bar. Here you get an (airbrushed) insight into the accommodation, and can book it.  www.gronze.com  www.booking.com

Pilgrims’ Refuges – the albergues The typical pilgrim’s accommodations are the pilgrims’ refuges, of which there are about 260 just on the main route alone. They are marked in this pilgrim guide with J; emergency accommodations, on the other hand, are marked with q. Information on pilgrims’ refuges is essential for St. James pilgrims and accordingly takes con - siderable space in this pilgrims’ guide.  Should you wish to get in contact with them via e-Mail or visit their website (when available), the following sites can be very helpful:  www.gronze.com and  www.caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergues. However, you should not place too much credence on the information presented there as the source of the description also leads back to the owners, who show their property at its best. Meanwhile, some boarding houses now call themselves “pilgrim refuges”. As well, listing of the “mini-” and “pseudo-refuges” would be too numerous for this book which is why, regretfully, a choice had to be made on standard criteria for inclusion in this guide reflecting general consensus on the Way. Refuges, listed in this guide, are legally recognized accommodations which can daily host a minimum of 10 pilgrims for a regular accommodation rate of no more than € 13, and which are located a maximum 500 m distance from the Way. Exceptions are made for locations in France and on routes with- out many refuges, as well as for special reason. The upper limit of € 13 per pilgrim per night is the standard price cap. Consider, as well, that at different locations of the Way you can get a single room in a boarding Travel Information from A to Z 31

Refuge of the monastery San Julián in Samos (rg) house for merely € 15. Additional criteria for the listing of a refuge in this guide include transparent pricing as well as accessibility. Openness of the refuge to every pilgrim as well as the author’s (preferably) surprise research visits are important factors. The pilgrim refuges can be roughly divided into three groups.

Public Refuges Public refuges (sp: albergue municipal/albergue público), listed in this book are often named “community refuges” or “city refuges”. You can only stay for the night if you have a pilgrim’s credential and you walked the whole way from the last town you stayed at, carrying your own backpack. You can usually only stay for one night unless you are ill, in which case they may allow a few more nights. The beds are issued at arrival of pilgrims. Some public refuges are run like parish refuges (> below), based on donations. Most, however, ask for a contribution of about € 6. Especially Galicia has a multitude of public refuges (sp: albergue Xunta de Galicia) which are described in greater detail on page 214. Many public refuges are relatively simply-equipped, as reflected in their price, but this does not mean that they cannot provide good shelter to a modest pilgrim. 32 Travel Information from A to Z Parish Refuges and Other Parish Facilities The parish refuges (sp: albergue parroquial) generally follow the concept of the above- described public refuge; however, are usually financed through donations of pilgrims, which should correspond to the value offered. Some, however, do ask for a firm amount for the overnight stay. They are naturally also open for non-Christian pilgrims. Many parish refuges can veritably honor the claim of true charity; and they are, in my opinion, an indispensable heart of the Way, whose early Christian principles must be fostered and vigilantly protected (> p. 109). This is especially pertinent to my con- cern that on the Way of St. James an increasing number of parish facilities are clever- ly used in various ways under religious guise; ultimately to realize financial interests and gain power. Some parish refuges are under the leadership of hospitaleros who are linked to the controversial, and in wide-spread, Opus Dei. Private Refuges By far, most refuges nowadays are in private hands and if nothing else is declared in the particular refuge description, it is generally a private one. Refuges of this kind (sp: albergue privado) are (also) declaredly based on a commercial concept. Except for a few black sheep, these refuges are usually relatively well-equipped and frequently offer quite an authentic pilgrims’ atmosphere at that. They are usually a little more expensive. In addition to the overnight stay in the dorm, an increasing number of private pilgrim refuges also offer individual rooms at very good rates (from € 13 per person). The price for a simple overnight stay in a dorm normally runs between € 5 and 10. In very rare cases, and especially at the beginning and end stages of the Way, an overnight stay can cost more. e Quite often, a simple breakfast and/or a dinner menu is offered at the private refuges starting at € 8, that is in rare cases also vegetarian (< p. 42). Although one cannot judge in general, it has to be mentioned that the choice and quality of food often cannot be compared with that of restaurants. A growing number of private refuges, in the true sense of spiritual and life-practic- ing openness and broadening horizons of the pilgrimage, pursue innovative spiritual and/or ecological concepts and are guided by, among others, Eastern religions and philosophies. Refuge Rules, Equipment and Reservation In general, refuges close between 10 pm and 11 pm to ensure restorative rest during the night. In the morning, pilgrims usually must have left the refuge between 7:30 am and 9 am. The seasonal opening hours differ. Some refuges are open year-round while others only from Easter to the end of October, or only during summer months. If you travel in winter, be sure to check, based on information in this guide and by asking at the last-visited refuge about which refuges are open further along the Way. Travel Information from A to Z 33

Many refuges are led by volunteers, the so-called hospitaleros voluntarios, who themselves have experience on the Way of St. James and have been trained in the care of pilgrims. Often you get to encounter exceptionally interesting personalities among them. Hot showers are nowadays normal; and it will be separately pointed out, should that not be the case. Many pilgrim refuges have kitchens that can be used to prepare food and where you often find plates and simple condiments such as salt, spices etc. Unfortunately, there are rarely plates in kitchens of Galician refuges. Often in refuges there is the opportunity to eat together. It is not rare to see menus offered in private refuges. In public and especially in parish refuges there is often group cooking, pray- ing and eating under the guidance of the hospitalero. This often happens on a donation basis. In many refuges there are j T washing machines as well as dryers. In most cases, the cost per use is € 3. Increasing numbers of refuges also offerlockers.  The @ internet can today (unfortunately) be found in nearly all refuges. The C computer with an internet connection can be used for a fee, donation, or free. Quite often, the use of Wi-Fi (WLAN) is possible and, with few exceptions, free. When choosing your refuge, though, consider that especially unlimited WLAN often affects the pilgrims’ atmosphere very negatively since there is much less direct communication taking place among the pilgrims. Some alternative refuges already rid themselves of their WLAN because of this reason. Consider carefully if you would like to inten - tionally renounce the use of your cellphone or at least your smartphone during the time on the Way of St. James. Also, the option of silencing your smartphone by set- ting it on flight-mode is not too bad. By doing so, you can bravely test whether you still can live without your digital data binky respectively the internet, or are already addicted to it. The Way of St. James actually offers an ideal opportunity to renounce technology and instead experience and once again enjoy the difference between a virtual and real tangible existence (> p. 22). Reservation of beds is generally only possible in private refuges as well as in youth hostels (rarely described in this guide), student homes, and boarding houses. On the other hand, public refuges often described as “urban” or “municipal” refuges, as well as parish refuges, basically do not allow reservations. Only in rare cases when the refuge does not follow that rule, will it be explicitly marked with the sign E. Whether the refuges will actually honor the reservations and which exact seasonal and deadline conditions apply, unfortunately cannot be further detailed in the individual refuge description due to space limitations in the book. 34 Travel Information from A to Z Camping Because a tent greatly increases the weight of luggage, the refuge is the typical accom- modation for St. James pilgrims. Besides that, the touristy campgrounds are located too far from the Way, and there are only a few “pilgrim-suitable” or “pilgrim-friendly” campgrounds. A few of the suitable ones are attached to pilgrim refuges and therefore mentioned. Those who prefer camping should consider buying a campground guide. Camping in non-designated campsites is officially forbidden in Spain.

Calling and Internet On the Iberian Peninsula smartphones, and also the internet, are widely-used. Thanks to the cheaper roaming costs within Europe (active since 2014), costs for calling inside and outside the country have dropped dramatically, so that buying a Spanish SIM card is barely worthwhile. For those who want to intentionally skip on smartphones (> p. 33) on the Way of St. James, you can sometimes find the good old-fashioned coin-operated phones at different locations (e.g. bars), where you can make quite affordable calls as well as receive calls (with cheap prefix numbers). And, for the real emergency you will always find more than enough helpful smartphone users on the Way. Landlines in Spain always begin with the number 9. Even if you are in the same town, you must use that town’s prefix when dialing local numbers. Cell numbers always begin with the number 6.

Climate and Travel Time The best time to travel is from April to October. In April, May, and October, how ever, it can become cold, and even rain or snow in the Pyrenees. A wet climate dominates Galicia and downpours are regularly distributed over the year, even though it rains a bit less during the summer. In July and August it can become very hot in South Navarra, Rioja, and Castille; therefore you should consider using the early morning hours for hiking. But also, because of the inner country’s high elevation, the evening hours are cool and very comfortable for hiking. A Castilian proverb says: “Nueve meses de invierno y tres meses de infierno” (“Nine months of winter and three months of hell”), which means that it is cold for a long period of time and the summer is very hot. That saying is surely somewhat exaggerated, but the winter lasts from December to February with day- and night tem- peratures which can hover around the freezing point. It is similar in Navarra and La The Way of St. James through Navarre

Junior pilgrim during the crossing of the Pyrenees past Orisson (ss)

Zariquiegui - Uterga 75

Zariquiegui - Uterga 6 km Cross the village and the Way continues along for 700 m on a narrow road. At a road junction, you change halfway-left onto a path (* During inclement weather and as a cyclist R avoid the steep part by remaining on the narrow road for a while longer until you reach the Way.) The path initially increases steeply and will then widen, reaching a pilgrims’ fountain 2 (which does not always offer water) after 1.6 km, and, after another 200 m, you reach the pass summit Puerto del Perdón + 734 m (km 2.5).

Brazilian pilgrims on the Puerto del Perdón (rj)

 Pilgrims’ Fountain. Legend has it that here a pilgrim was tempted by the devil with the promise of water if he would blaspheme against St. James and God. Natural- ly, the staunch catholic resisted the temptation and was later given water by the holy St. James himself.  Wind Park (parque eólico). Across the mountain ridge “Where the Way of the winds meets the Way of the stars”, 40 giant wind turbines are located for the production of electricity. 76 Uterga - Muruzábal - Eunate - Obanos On the pass summit, you cross a country road and it continues mostly downhill for 3.5 km on initially stony paths ( There have been some falls over here), to Uterga He(km 6) where close to the end of town the J pilgrims’ refuges Baztan (right) and Camino del Perdón (left) are located on the left side. Je Baztan. 2015 opened private refuge in a renovated party rustic house. 24 spots in a dorm, garden, chapelle, H one dbl with breakfast € 45, sgl € 30. Menu without wine € 8, C free, @ j T. t 948 344 528 or 691 840 408, 7 year-round, 10 am to 10 pm, over- night stay with breakfast € 10 JHe Camino del Perdón. Private refuge with 16 cots in a clean, well-maintained dorm with room dividers, terrace, double € 50, menu € 12, @ j T . t 948 344 661, 7 Mar to Oct, €10

Uterga - Muruzábal (2 km) - Eunate - Obanos 3.9/7.1 km From the pilgrims’ refuge, the way continues on beautiful trails 1.6 km further to the town entrance of Muruzábal Hk Q J where the Jrefuge is also located and 400 m further near the town center. JHe Small private refuge (El Jardín) in a remodeled residential house. 14 spots in a simple maintained dorm with room dividers, simple nice dbls with breakfast from € 40, common area with cooking possibility on the ground floor. Convenience food for sale, large lawn for sunbathing with lounger chairs, in the summer " pool free, breakfast € 4, menu  € 11, @ j T. t 696 688 399, 7 Easter to Oct, 12:30 pm to 10 pm, € 10 o The Way across Eunate. For those who do not have time-pressure imposed on their vacation, the small detour of 3.2 km to the small church Santa Maria de Eunate + 395 m is a must. For this purpose, you turn left in front of the city hall – a house with flags with a bus shelter located nearby – and will reach this gem after 2.5 km (km 4.5). The Way then leads you from Eunate, directly 2.6 km further into the village center of Obanos JHseQB+412 m (> below), where you again reach the Way alternatives at the local church (km 7.1). Uterga - Muruzábal - Eunate - Obanos 77  In Eunate or, at the latest, in Obanos, the two most important Ways of St. James merge: the Aragonese, and the Navarrese. The city Puente la Reina carries the fame of being the meeting point of the most important Ways of St. James. É Church Eunate. Harmonic Romanesque chapel whose origin is unclear. Its octagonal form and other evidence suggest a holy sepulcher. 7 Year-round daily from 10:30 am to 1:30 pm, additionally Nov, Jan, Feb, Sat and Sun 4 pm to 6 pm, Mar to Oct 5:30 pm to 8 pm, entrance free o Circuit. In enjoy- able silence, walk bare- foot two- or three times on the brick path which surrounds the small church. It is said that you will better feel the mysterious spiritual energy which surrounds this magical place. Even the Sunset is a special event here. You will get from Eunate to Obanos by heading West past the service building. A well- marked Way will then take you for 2.3 km mostly on gravel road, past vineyards, across country roads, and at last over a steep incline up to the village, where after 300 m both Ways meet near the church. * The shortcut leads you from the above-mentioned turn in Muruzábal, after 1.9 km, to the charming main square in Obanos JHsQ+412 m, where the two routes merge close by, next to the church (km 3.9).

Obanos + 412 m JHseQB  On this square, the Misterio de San Guillén y Santa Felicia is performed, which is the only Spanish medieval musical play (auto sacramental) still in existence. It is based on medieval lore, where Wilhelm (Guillén), duke of Aquitaine, stabbed his sister Felicia based on anger, because after her pilgrimage to Santiago, she did not Index

Finisterre (sv)

A Arzúa 243 A Balsa 218 Astorga 178 A Brea 235 Atapuerca 119 A Calzada 245 Augapesada 268 A Parrocha 228 Ayegui 84 A Pena 270 Azofra 103 Accommodation 30 Agés 119 B Aguiada 225 Backpack 40 Aguíada 219 Barbadelo 225 Airexe 234 Barca 269 Alto do Mar de Ovellas 268 Barreiro 241 Alto do Poio 214 Belorado 113 Amarela 278 Bercianos del Real Camino 158 Ambasmestas 204 Boadilla del Camino 139 Amenal 249 Boavista 245 Arcahueja 162 Boente 241 Index 285

Brea 227 Corcubión 277 Burgos 127 Cornado 272 Burgueiros 268 Credencial 24 Cruz de Ferro 186 C Cyclists 35 Cacabelos 196 Calle 245 D Calling 34 Dogs 37 Calvor 219 Drinking Water 37 Calzada del Coto 154 Calzada Romana 156 E Calzadilla de la Cueza 149 El Acebo 187 Calzadilla de los Hermanillos 155 El Burgo Ranero 158 Camino Aragonés 50 El Castro 207 Camiño Real 270 El Ganso 182 Camping 34 Emergency Hotline 38 Campo 191 Empalme 246 Camponaraya 195 Equipment 38 Cape Finisterre 283 Espinal 61 Carballal 268 Espinosa del Camino 116 Carballo 268 Estella 84 Cardeñuela de Ríopico 121 Estorde 278 Carrión de los Condes 146 Eunate 76 Castañares 123 Castañeda 242 F Castildelgado 111 Ferreiros 227 Castrillo de los Polvozares 180 Filloval 215 Castrojeriz 136 First Aid 41 Castromaior 232 Fisterra 279 Cée 276 Fisterrana 282 Chancela 269 Foncebadón 184 Cirauqui 81 Fonfría 214 Cirueña 104 Fontearcuda 218 Cizur Menor 74 Food 42 Climate 34 Freituxe 223 Columbrianos 194 Fresno del Camino 170 286 Index

Frómista 141 Las Lamas 207 Fuente El Piojo 138 Lastres 223 Fuentesnuevas 194 Lavandeira 227 Furela 219 Ledigos 150 León 164 G Lestedo 235 Galicia 212 Liñares 213 Gonzar 231 Lingonde 234 Grañón 108 Logoso 274 Gueima 272 Logroño 95 Lorca 82 H Los Arcos 88 Herrerías 207 Hiking Boots 41 M History 20 Mail 44 Holidays 43 Mañeru 81 Holy Year 27 Manjarín 186 Hontanas 133 Mansilla de las Mulas 160 Hornillos del Camino 133 Medical Supply 43 Hospital da Condesa 213 Melide 239 Hospital da Cruz 232 Mercado 226 Hospital de Órbigo 172, 174 Mercadoiro 228 Huntto 56 Meseta 132 Molinaseca 189 I Money 44 Iglesia 270 Montán 218 Internet 34 Monte do Gozo 250 Itero de la Vega 138 Montes de Oca 117 Moratinos 151 L Morgade 227 La Faba 207 Moutras 228 Labacolla 249 Murias de Rechivaldo 180 Laguna de Castilla 208 Muruzábal 76 Language 43 Muxía 266 Larrasoaña 66 Index 287

N Preguntoño 244 Nájera 102 Puente la Reina 78 Navarrete 98 Puente Villarente 161 Negreira 269 Puerto del Perdón 75

O Q O Carbarallal 241 Queimada 212 O Cebreiro 208 Quintans 268 Obanos 77 Olveiroa 273 R Oncina de la Valdoncina 170 Rabanal del Camino 183 Orbaneja de Ríopico 122 Rabé de las Calzadas 131 Orisson 57 Rapote 270 Os Lameiros 234 Redecilla del Camino 109 Refuges 30, 111 P Reino 268 Padornelo 214 Reliegos 157, 160 Palas de Rei 236 Renche 223 Pamplona 69 Rente 226 Pascais 225 Return Travel 263 Pedrafita do Cebreiro 207 Revenga 144 Pedrouzo 248 Ribadiso 242 Pereje 203 Riego de Ambrós 188 Pieros 196 Roncesvalles 60 Pilgrim’s Staff 27 Rosario 235 Pintín 219 Rúa 247 Población de Campos 142 Ruitelán 206 Ponferrada 192 Ponte Campaña 237 S Ponte Maceira 268 Sahagún 152 Ponte Olveira 272 Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 51 Portela 204 Salceda 245 Portomarín 229 Samos 223 Portos 234 San Antón 135, 249 Pradela 201 San Bol 133 288 Index

San Cristovo do Real 222 U/V San Juan de Ortega 118 Uterga 76 177 Valtuille de Arriba 197 San Mamede 219, 225 Valverde de la Virgen 173 San Martín del Camino 174 Vega de Valcarce 205 San Martiño 223 Ventas de Narón 233 San Nicolás 151 Ventosa 100, 268 San Paio 249 Viana 91 San Xulián 237 Viduedo 215 Sansol 89 Vilacha 228 Santa Cata lina de Somoza 182 Vilaserío 271 Santa Catalina de Somoza 180 Villadangos del Páramo 173 Santa Irene 246 Villafranca del Bierzo 199 Santa Mariña 272 Villafranca Montes de Oca 116 Santiago de Compostela 252 Villalcázar de Sirga 145 Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias 177 Villalval 121 Santo Domingo de la Calzada 106 Villamayor 112 Sardiñeiro 278 Villamayor de Monjardín 87 Sarria 220 Villambistia 115 Shopping 44 Villamoros 160 Signposts 45 Villar de Mazarife 171 St. James Associations 46 Villares de Órbigo 176 Stages 46 Villarmentero 143, 144 Villatuerta 83 T Villava 67 Tabernavella 244 Villavante 172 Tardajos 131 Viloria 111 Terradillos de los Templarios 150 Virgen del Camino 169 Tierra de Campos 139 Viscarret 63 Torres del Río 90 Tosantos 115 Z Trabadelo 202, 204 Zabaldika 66 Trasmonte 268 Zariquiegui 74 Travel Time 34 Zas 270 Triacastela 216 Zubiri 64 Trinidad de Arre 67