JAGGERMEN’S ON TRAILS

enchanting , near , .

On a cold February morning Wycoller‟s curious looking, crooked, double-arched packhorse spanning with the ruinous to the rear. February 2010.

© Christine McEwen Collection.

The charming East Lancashire village of aries were established for the breeding of oxen. Wycoller with its architecturally renowned eight- These powerful, sturdy animals were the main eenth century stone houses and its ruinous, beasts of burden for centuries. Each village reputedly haunted, Wycoller Hall, straddles required eight oxen to pull the plough, and it was Wycoller Beck that meanders down the beautiful the Wycoller vaccaries that provided the oxen. Pennine valley, Wycoller Dene to drain the high The unusual looking, enigmatic vaccary moorland to the east that extends over to walls, built of massive, weirdly-shaped gritstone in West . slabs are a striking feature of the fields around Anyone approaching Wycoller could not Wycoller. Their existence alongside the ancient help but notice the wild silhouettes of gnarled, trackways where they stand up like giant jagged wind-bent ancient Oaks, Alders, Ash and Birches teeth against the sky, are a testament to the men against the sky. Wycoller received it name from who erected them centuries ago. These walls of the Anglo-Saxon: - ‘wic-air’ – which translates gritstone slabs were built to act as enclosures for into, ‘the dairy farm amongst the Alders’. Middle the safeguarding of the farm’s oxen, cattle and Stone Age man lived and hunted on the encircling sheep, and were probably erected during the mid- high moorland that dominates Wycoller. thirteenth century when many new vaccaries Early records mention – (circa 1196) – were established in nearby Pendle Forest, there were two cattle rearing farms, known as Rossendale Forest and elsewhere in Pennine ‘vaccaries’ in Wycoller. It is probable that vac- Lancashire. 121

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„A row of giant jagged teeth against the sky‟. A section of vaccary walling on the fell side above Wycoller Dene. February 2010.

© Christine McEwen Collection.

By 1527, the two Wycoller vaccaries had typical flash of bright plumage as a kingfisher developed into a hamlet. Between the Tudors and races above the surface of the busy, chattering the stirrings of the Industrial Revolution, Wycoller Wycoller Beck searching for a meal. Alan also developed into a locally important, handloom enjoys a passion for wild flowers, so in spring we weaving village, which by this period lay astride often take a most delightful stroll along Wycoller the packhorse trackway from nearby Colne to Beck where we are rewarded with seeing hosts of Keighley on the other side of the Pennines in the bluebells, wood sorrel, celandines, and those West Riding of Yorkshire. unusually looking plants, butterburs. In summer, Wycoller village, together with the verdant, the edges of the steeply sloping meadows are leafy Wycoller Dene with its beautiful , has awash with the colour of tall foxgloves, dog violets for over forty years been a favourite place to visit and germander speedwell. A truly delightful, for my husband Alan, and also for myself ever enchanting and serene haven for wildlife and for since I became lovingly acquainted with its Man. charms in 2002. The area abounds with wildlife; and we have frequently observed kestrels WYCOLLER‟S FAMOUS UNIQUE BRIDGES hovering above the village in search of mice, rats, Wycoller straddles one of the earliest stoats, weasels and young rabbits. In Wycoller important packhorse trackways across the Beck, we have been regularly delighted in seeing Pennines between Colne, once an important heron gracefully standing in the beck fishing for cloth-making town, and over into the West Riding the abundant brown trout. On a number of other of Yorkshire, Keighley and Bradford in the Aire occasions I have been thrilled on seeing the Valley.

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Wycoller is renowned for its seven stone builders covering this striking, ancient packhorse bridges that span Wycoller Beck, three being bridge with so hideous a material as concrete! unique specimens of the bridge builders art. On Gladly they did not do so. entering Wycoller the first of these three bridges, The is affectionately the packhorse bridge can be seen spanning the known hereabouts as Sally’s Bridge. So who was beck a cockstride downstream of a cobble stone- Sally? Local tradition has it way back in the mists bottomed ford. of time, a local lass named Sally influenced the construction of this amazing bridge. A one time THE PACKHORSE BRIDGE resident of Wycoller Hall, Squire Henry Cunliffe The famous packhorse bridge is a had a favourite niece, Sally Scargill, who fascinating specimen of a double-arched bridge. evidently delighted in spending time at the hall, Some say it dates back to the thirteenth century, which she had enjoyed ever since being a wee whilst other say the fifteenth century. However, I lass. This Sally, probably was a young well-born am sure its true age will never be revealed but the woman, Sarah Scargill, who was locally known as ancient structure has withstood the constant Sally. She eventually married into the prominent passage of Jaggermen and his strings of Cunliffe family, thereafter being known as Sally for centuries. Owen Cunliffe. Later, she gave birth to a boy, The whole bridge is built from the local Henry Owen Cunliffe, who in time became the Millstone Grit. The voussoirs: the stones that last Squire of Wycoller Hall. comprise the double arches actually extend the When I have viewed this fascinating, full width of the bridge and display evidence that double-arched, old stone bridge from its upstream in the distant past the arch stones themselves side, the crooked left-hand arch referred to were the actual paving. Also due to the bridge’s above, appears to be most strange. Never- foundation stones being laid in an uneven theless, the quirky, malformed configuration, fashion, the whole structure, and in particular the whether intentionally built in, or the result of an ‘village side’ arch looks to be in a precarious state early partial collapse of the structure, actually of health. How long the bridge has been in this accentuates the overall attractiveness and appeal predicament nobody seems to know, but in 1948 of this stunning pre-industrial packhorse bridge the Ministry of Works issued a fascinating which countless visitors to Wycoller take pleasure condition report on the bridge which, I feel is in photographing. worth adding in full: The ‘crooked’ arch has a span of around fourteen feet. The ‘main’ arch leaps from the “At first glance this appears to be in a centre stone pillar, a distance of around twelve precarious state but it is considered mainly an feet to the bank. The overall span of the bridge optical effect due to the extra ordinary method across Wycoller Beck amounts to around twenty employed in springing the arch – (entirely six feet. The centre stone pillar rising from the built of long stones) – direct from the rock middle of the beck acts as cutwaters on both without any attempt to level it first; the upstream and downstream sides. distortion of the arch does not appear to be a The twenty six inch wide trackway over recent fault and in fact may never have been the bridge consists of severely worn cobbles and true. The bridge is not falling over as flagstones. The random stone parapets are appearance suggests. Mortar in the joints is approximately ten inches high. These were mainly lacking and they should be thoroughly probably rebuilt by the Ministry of Works around consolidated. Original path surface and low 1948. parapets are missing and the backs of the Two or three yards upstream is an arch stones now form the surface. When this attractive stony-bottomed ford, and several is washed out and consolidated, it would . Both ford and stepping stones perhaps. Be as well to lay a layer of concrete originally would have been used by herdsmen over the whole bridge, within the parapets of whilst leading cattle and sheep across the beck. course, to form a saddle and provide a proper When in full spate, the beck would no doubt be surface, care, however, would be necessary to difficult to cross, and particularly so for provide a pleasing surface ...... ” packhorses with their heavily loaded panniers, perhaps containing oats, corn, wheat, woollens, When I read this document, I was truly cotton – which had to be kept dry, this is probably horrified at the prospect of the Ministry of Work’s the reason the packhorse bridge was constructed.

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On a beautiful April morning I took this picture of Wycoller‟s ancient crossing the beck near the front of Wycoller Hall. April 2005.

© Christine McEwen Collection.

THE CLAPPER BRIDGE several centuries of village handloom weavers This superb specimen of a clapper bridge who crossed the bridge with their ‘pieces’ – spans the beck in the shadow of the broken down sheets of coarse woollens to hang out to dry in walls of enigmatic Wycoller Hall. Hereabouts, the the Tenter field then located at the rear of the beck was too wide to be spanned by a single-slab Hall. Local legend spins that in the Dark Ages, bridge, such as the clam bridge located about a local Druid priests carried out human sacrifices in half a mile upstream. Although somewhat an amphitheatre located on the side of the beck primitive looking, clapper bridges of these where the Hall was later constructed. Evidently, proportions in Northern are a profound these ancient Druid rites are now recalled in the rarity, and the age of this bridge is the subject of clapper bridge’s thought-inspiring name. much head-scratching amongst historians. It is Currently, the clapper bridge consists of safe to say, however, that Wycoller’s clapper three massive gritstone slabs resting on two bridge is among the rarest of its type to be found supporting pillars. However, local legend says anywhere in Britain. In , in the village of that early in the nineteenth century there were Postbridge there is a similarly striking clapper only two slabs, until the slab on the Wycoller Hall bridge, but the date of its construction is side of the beck was broken in half due to a unknown. falling, heavy tree. This resulted in the two broken The clapper bridge is also quite unusual, sections of the slab being subsequently repaired, as it is known hereabouts by three different and being supported from the bed of the beck by names: Th’Hall Bridge; Weavers’ Bridge and a stout, Oak log. Later, the log was replaced by Druids’ Bridge. Its colourful, varying names derive the current concrete pillar. from the centuries old traditions that surround the ancient structure. It is known as Th’Hall Bridge because it crosses the beck right in front of Wycoller Hall; Weavers’ Bridge, no doubt, recalls

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So this is the reason why the bridge now Although not specifically mentioned as a comprises of three huge slabs of local Millstone packhorse bridge, I believe this broad-topped Grit to span this wide section of Wycoller Beck. clapper bridge pre-dates the packhorse bridge The slabs have an average width of thirty eight and therefore, would be regularly used by the inches by eleven inches in thickness. Jaggermen’s heavily ladened packhorses, as well In the middle of the beck there is a as farmers driving their cattle and sheep across massive arrowhead-shaped gritstone boulder, the beck. seven feet, six inches long by three feet high which tapers at the downstream side from thirty CLAM BRIDGE eight inches down to six inches. This boulder, an Located about a third of a mile upstream Ice Age erratic, together with two squarish lumps from the clapper bridge is an excellent specimen of stone stacked on top acts as the main support of a stone beam or clam bridge, which comprises pillar; on the upstream side the arrowhead acts a massive, single slab of Millstone Grit which is as a cutwater. laid resembling a huge tree trunk across the The main slab which even for a large beck. This clam bridge is the most primitive- section of Millstone Grit is, at fourteen feet, eight looking of Wycoller’s bridges, its design harking inches a considerable length. One end of this back to earlier times when man would use large huge slab on the ‘village’ side of the beck rests on tree trunks for crossing . crudely built abutments constructed from huge, In the mountainous regions of Northern roughly-squared, natural pieces of stone. The England, where there was an abundance of other end sits mid-way on the supporting stone stone, for example, the Millstone Grit areas of the pillar. Between this natural stone pillar and the , large slabs hewn from gritstone ‘hall’ side of the beck, acting as an additional and other suitable sandstones were considerably support pillar, is the most unappealing, commonplace. incongruous, concrete support. The middle slab, The massive, natural-looking slab used in some seven feet in length is supported by the the Wycoller clam bridge originally may have huge stone column and the concrete pillar. The been discovered among the numerous piles of third slab measures around seven feet, four erratic boulders left scattered about Wycoller inches and is also supported at one end by the Dene during the last Ice Age; for there is no concrete pillar and the other end by large pieces distinct evidence in the form of mason’s tool of stone let into the bank of the beck. marks to be seen anywhere on the stone. The present top surface of the clapper The quarrying of such a large slab, and bridge is relatively smooth. Most modern footwear particularly so in the pre-Medieval Period would is not iron-tipped like the handloom weavers’ have been a significant undertaking. The clogs of old, or the heavy leather boots once worn transportation of the slab, due to the rocky terrain by farmers, and therefore, do not cause grooves of the dene, unless sourced from nearby would to be worn into the stone. However, past also have been virtually impossible; and the final generations of foot traffic did indeed, over time, lifting into place of the slab, would be a most wear extremely deep troughs along the centre of hazardous and practically challenging task. the upper surface of the stone slabs. Regarding the age of the clam bridge, These ever-deepening grooves, obviously some historians suggest it was built in ancient made walking across the bridge increasingly times, - (between 1000 and 3000 years) - while difficult, particularly at night when it would be others say it is relatively modern, probably late pitch-black, or during bad weather when the eighteenth or early nineteenth century. conditions could be hazardous. Local legend Just like dating many of these enigmatic spins that the grooves were in fact chiselled flat bridges – who knows? I have only added the by a Wycoller farmer following the tragic death of Wycoller clam bridge into the book – because it is his daughter who evidently drowned in the one of the well-known ‘Wycoller three bridges’, flooded beck resulting from her missing her and because I just find the old clam bridge footing in the deep grooves and falling into the absolutely fascinating. raging torrent.

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The author and granddaughter Emily precariously standing upon Wycoller‟s Clam Bridge. In the foreground is an ancient ford with some large vaccary stones embedded in the beck. April 2005.

© Christine McEwen Collection.

The overall length of this huge slab of down to around twelve inches. There are two Millstone Grit, the main component of the bridge, square holes measuring approximately two is a massive fifteen feet and the width varies inches square which have been cut into the top, between thirty two and twenty eight inches. The presumably, for securing an iron handrail, now thickness of the slab ranges from fifteen inches long gone.

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Rather precariously, the slab spans across either the Packhorse Bridge or the Wycoller Beck with just around three or four Clapper Bridge, the mist swirling around you, to inches of purchase on top of a large, irregular- then enter the roofless old Hall and to stand close shaped rock embedded in the bank by the road to the huge stone fireplace. Even for the stoutest side. The other end of the slab sits on a crudely heart naturally, this would be a fearsome place constructed abutment of large, rough blocks of because a number of ghostly happenings have gritstone built into the side of the beck. occurred hereabouts. Wycoller’s ghost stories are Almost unbelievably, on the 19th of May well documented and more than one involve two 1989, a tremendous, powerful wall of flood water of the historic bridges. thundering down the beck, ripped the giant slab from its position and washed it several yards „THE SPECTRE HORSEMAN‟ downstream, resulting in it being cracked across The legendary Spectre Horseman is in two different places. The bridge owners, undoubtedly the most well documented, famous Lancashire County Council, successfully re- Wycoller ghost. From back in the mists of time, covered the slab, and subsequent to carrying out local tradition says that the ghost appears on just specialised repairs involving pinning and bonding one night each year, and only then when the the cracks together with special mortar, it was re- night is as black as a grave, the wind howling sited, where it had withstood many a ferocious down from the high, bleak moorland and rain Pennine storm for countless years. barrelling down in torrents. On nights such as this Immediately downstream of the clam when there is no moon to light up the secluded, bridge is the remains of a ford and embedded in dark and foggy lanes, the village folk of Wycoller the bed of the beck are a number of large would not stir from their hearths. ‘vaccary’ stones which must have been removed The haunting of the Packhorse Bridge by from one of the local field walls. the Spectre Horseman is dramatically recorded in Having many times visited these three Harland and Wilkinson’s, ‘Lancashire Legends’ fascinating old bridges, and marvelled at their dated 1882: construction, I have found myself becoming more and more appreciative of how they enhance the “He is attired in the costume of the enchanting atmosphere of beautiful Wycoller early Stuart Period and the trappings of his Dene, and I just wonder when and by whom horse are one of the most uncouth these historic stone bridges were built. description. When the wind howls, the loudest horseman can be heard dashing up the road WYCOLLER‟S GHOSTS at full speed, and after crossing the narrow Legends of ghostly visitations embrace bridge, he suddenly stops at the door of the ancient Wycoller as they cling to perhaps just a Hall. The rider then dismounts and makes his few other secluded Pennine villages. But it isn’t way up the broad open stairs into one of the surprising, for the tiny hamlet of Wycoller lies in rooms of the Hall. Dreadful screams, as from seclusion in its bowl-like valley encircled with high a woman, are then heard, which soon altitude, misty moorland; surely the perfect spot subsides into groans. The horseman then for ghostly hauntings, boggarts and worst, terrible makes his appearance at the door –--- at once Guytrash Padfoot. mounts his steed –--- and gallops off the road During the summer days, Wycoller with its he came. His body can be seen through by beautiful stream flowing peacefully between those who may be chance to be present; his banks of colourful, perfumed wild flowers is a horse appears to be wild with rage and its charming and peaceful location. But during those nostrils steam with fire.” pitch black, moonless, late autumn nights, with swirling blankets of mist rising above the beck, it This tale, records one of the Cunliffe would be easy to let your imagination dwell on the family members murdering his wife in one of the local legends of ghostly happenings that for Hall’s upstairs bedrooms. The ghostly apparition, centuries have haunted the village, and in - the Spectre Horseman - is the ghost of Cunliffe, particular the broken down ruins of Wycoller Hall. the wife-killer who is doomed forever to re-enact Just imagine, in the dead of night, walking the terrible, bloody scene of the heinous crime.

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There is an even more dramatic telling of the hounds‟ teeth were already in the fox, and the same story in Halliwell Sutcliffe’s ‘Mistress the music of the hunt was deafening --- and Barbara Cunliffe’, who dates the murder during Simon Cunliffe swore a great oath, and cursed the reign of Charles II. her chicken-heartedness, and raised his hunting-crop as if to strike her. That and the “Well, he went a-hunting once on a day fright together killed her, so they say, and all ---- it was in Charles the Second‟s time, we‟re in haste the Squire drove out the hounds, lest told ---- and the fox led them a five-mile chase they should turn upon his fallen lady.” across the moors until he came to Wycoller Dene. He crossed the stream between the The ghost in this tale is supposedly Squire straight bridge and the double-arched, and Simon Cunliffe – who in fact was a fictitious would have turned down the village; but the character invented by the author Halliwell hounds headed him, and he ran straight as a Sutcliffe. Nevertheless, it is a most disturbing die through the open main door of the Hall, ghostly tale. and up the stair here: the hounds followed, Alan and I have visited the ruins of and after them the old Squire spurred his Wycoller Hall in the wee small hours of a dark horse right up the stair, and into his wife‟s winter night, and notwithstanding the creepiness room, where she had been busy with her of the ruins, alas, we went back home to bed tiring maid until the entry of the fox disturbed without seeing or hearing any ghostly them. The wife screamed aloud in terror for happenings. Alan was really disappointed!

The ruins of Wycoller Hall, the haunt of the ghostly „Spectre Horseman‟. February 2010.

© Christine McEwen Collection.

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