N Red Rock Beauty N Salt Lake City N Outdoor Adventure N Dinosaurs

n Red Rock Beauty n Salt Lake City n Outdoor Adventure n Dinosaurs

Plus: Arts, Winter Sports, Golf

A SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT TO THE JANUARY 2009 ISSUE OF When you come to Utah, visit TEMPLE SQUARE In the heart of Salt Lake City many venues to choose from... All are Free

Brigham Young Historic Park Church Office Building

State Street Conference Center

Relief Society Building Main Street

Lion House and Beehive House

North Temple Street Salt Lake Temple Joseph Smith Memorial Building

West Temple Street

North Visitors' Center Tabernacle South Temple Street South Visitors' Center

Museum of Church History and Art Assembly Hall

Family History Library

Hear the world-famous Mormon See the magnificent spires of the Find your roots in the world’s Tabernacle Choir. Salt Lake Temple. largest collection of genealogical information.

Enjoy the imposing 11-foot marble Christus statue at the North Visitors' Center.

For information, go to visittemplesquare.com, lds.org/placestovisit, or call 1-800-537-9703 For information about The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, visit mormon.org

Utah 4 Life Elevated

Northern Utah 8 Salt Lake, Dinosaurland & Everything Inbetween

Central Utah 14 Nordic Traditions & Outdoor Wilderness

Southwestern Utah 16 National Parks, Western History & Rugged Beauty

Southeastern Utah 22 Dinosaurs, Swells & Desert Beauty

UTAH – A SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT TO THE JANUARY 2009 ISSUE OF CANADIAN TRAVELLER

Published 12 times a year by

27 Canadian Traveller • January 2009 • UTAH 3 Utah Life Elevated

Sublime scenery that invites contemplation; vast tracts of wilderness that invite exploration; vibrant cities that invite you to stay and enjoy theatre, nightlife and contemporary cuisine – this is Utah. Journey through this land and discover its secrets, and some of your own.

One of the best ways to see Utah is to drive the state’s collection of And then there are the National Monuments (seven), National Rec- scenic byways. There are seven U.S. Scenic Byways and 19 State reation Areas (two), National Historic Sites (one) and National Forests Scenic Byways that wind through every part of the state, offering (six). Oh yeah, there are also 42 State Parks that offer boating, water interpretive lookouts, panoramic vistas and the chance to explore sports, swimming, fishing, river running, biking, hiking, off-roading and natural and human history. horseback riding in summer and a host of winter sports, too. Bikers come to Utah looking for the ultimate terrain to tackle and Parks Plus are never disappointed. Moab’s Slickrock Trail is arguably the most The Great Outdoors are truly great here and have a profound influ- poplar mountain bike trail in the world, while Brian Head Resort was ence on all that goes on in the state. There are five, count ’em five, voted “one of the best, unique and most unusual mountain bike vaca- national parks: Arches National Park; Bryce Canyon National Park; tion resorts” by Mountain Bike Action magazine. The fact is, every Canyonlands National Park; Capitol Reef National Park; and Zion Na- community in the state offers all levels of riders the chance to pedal UTAH tional Park. From the world’s largest concentration of natural arches, through amazing scenery. to haunting hoodoos, from extraordinary solitude to soul-satisfying There are also literally thousands of miles of OHV and snow- Monument vistas, each has its own unique attractions. mobile trails for motorized off-road adventure. The Paiute ATV Trail Valley.

4 UTAH • January 2009 • Canadian Traveller 28 was rated one of the best 15 trails in the U.S. so were outlaws, like Butch Cassidy, Billy The by Dirt Wheels magazine; Skyline Drive/Arapeen Kid and the Rough Riders. For western enter- Trail offers 560 kilometres of alpine off-road ad- tainment, you can head out to Ruby’s Inn, Utah venture; and Burr Trail area, connecting Grand Trails Resort, Bar M Chuckwagon and the Sun- Staircase-Escalante National Monument with down Ranch Chuckwagon Dinner and Wild West Lake Powell was the last area in the lower 48 Show. Book yourself into a states to be mapped. dude or guest ranch to live Birders flock to Utah for the number of the cowboy life. Or, head to species (430) that have been spotted and the The American West Heritage amazing range of habitat that attracts our feath- Center or Red Rock Ranch

ered friends. From sub-alpine mountains, forest T ou rism/ F rank Jensen ah Offi c e o f and Outfitters to watch and sage-steppe, to upland, lake, wetland and U t someone else live it. Lake Powell. high elevation desert, there is a place for every bird, and every birder. The Great Salt Lake is a Western Hemisphere And Indians Shorebird Reserve network site and Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge Utah was home to not one, but two ancient Native is one of the best-known birding sites in the country. American cultures – the Anasazi and Fremont, both of which left the area about 700 years ago. Utah Office of Tourism/Lori Adamski-Peek Cowboys… Evidence of their lives can be seen at a multitude Yes, indeed, Utah has a rich cowboy tradition. Law-abiding ranchers of rock art sites throughout the state. Petroglyphs, and farmers were attracted to the state’s wide open spaces. And images chipped into the stone, and pictographs,

Heber Valley CVB Top: Park City Mountain Resort.

Bottom: Homestesd Resort. f T ou rism/ F rank Jensen ah Offi c e o f U t

29 Canadian Traveller • January 2009 • UTAH 5 painted on the stones, leave a haunting, and indecipherable, record of their beliefs and everyday lives. You can also visit countless ruins of their communities and learn more at Utah’s numerous museums.

Diggin’ It Before the Ancient Ones, however, there were the dinosaurs. Ev- erywhere it seems. Utah is home to more dinosaur species than any other state; the world’s largest collection of mounted dinosaur skeletons; and the world’s most famous dinosaur quarry at Dinosaur National Monument. Visit museums, parks, and digs in any corner of the state and you’ll come face-to-face with the past – the very distant past.

Fore Golfers delight in the wide range of scenery and conditions, ranging from high elevation tacks to challenging desert conditions, presented

by Utah golf courses. The Salt Lake Valley alone is home to more Tou rism/ F rank M end o n c a than 40 courses, with 30 less than an hour’s drive from downtown. Can’t decide? Follow the Red Rock Golf Trail, a collection of nine

courses, all within a 24-kilometre radius in southern Utah that offer h Offi c e o f Uta redrock desert scenery and world-class amenities. Golf Wasatch offers the state’s only mountain golf destination advance reservation system on five fine Heber Valley courses.

The Greatest Snow On Earth®

UTAH It really is. And Utah has 13 world-class ski resorts that offer 10,500 hectares of skiable terrain that boast an average of 1,250 centi-

metres of light, dry powder every year. Downhill/boarding areas T ou rism/ F rank Jensen ah Offi c e o f U t include Beaver Mountain, Powder Mountain, Snow Basin and Wolf Top: Off-roading, Moab Rim. Mountain in Logan and Ogden Canyons; Park City Mountain Resort, Bottom: Biking Canyonlands National Park. The Canyons and Deer Valley Resort in the Park City area; Solitude Mountain Resort, Brighton, Alta and Snowbird in Salt Lake Canyons; Cross-country and Nordic skiers head to resorts like Sherwood Utah Sundance in Provo/Orem; and Brian Head Resort in southern Utah. Hills, White Pine Touring Center, The Viking Yurt, Solitude Nordic Cen- Olympic ter, Alta Nordi Center, Soldier Hollow, The Homestead Cross-Country Park. Ski Center, Sundance Nordic Center, Best Western Ruby’s Inn, Brian Head Resort and Duck Creek Village, as well as National Forest Ski Areas, La Sal Mountain area and Wasatch Mountain State Park. Olympic Glory For 16 days in February 2002, Utah welcomed the world to the XIX Olympic Winter Games. The Games legacy lives on in the facilities that hosted the Olympic events, and you can experience the thrill of competition at many of the Olympic Venues that are open to the public. At Olympic Cauldron Park you can relive the Games experience at a multi-sensory exhibit in the Visitors Center and Theater; Energy Solutions Arena hosted figure skating and short-track speed skating; The Ice Sheet housed curling; and the Utah Olympic Oval was the site of speed skating. Ice hockey was played at the E Center Arena and the Peaks Ice Arena. Utah Olympic Park held ski jumping, bobsled, skeleton and luge events, while Park City Mountain Resort hosted half-pipe and snowboarding events. Deer Valley Resort, Snowbasin Ski Resort and Soldier Hollow were where the downhill and Nordic skiing F rank Jensen events took place. F

6 UTAH • January 2009 • Canadian Traveller 30 Must See Utah

With so much to offer it is tough to pick THE best places in Utah. Based solely on visitation numbers, here are the top 15 favourites: 1. Temple Square and the surrounding 10. Cedar Breaks National Monument is Salt Lake City attractions include a state- an amphitheatre on of-the-art Conference Center, the world’s the western edge largest genealogical library and the of the Markagunt Joseph Smith Memorial Building housing Plateau filled with Family History Center and large-screen pillars, columns and theatre showing films related to Church hoodoos surrounded of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (Mor- by Dixie National mon) history and religious concepts. Forest. The Museum of Church History and Art houses historic displays as well as works 11. This Is The Place of modern L.D.S. and two visitor centres Heritage Park fea- interpret L.D.S. history and faith. tures the Heritage Village Living His- Tou rism/ F rank M end o n c a f T ou rism/ F rank Jensen ah Offi c e o f

2. Zion National Park, features soaring tory Experience, U t monoliths, an interpretive centre, hiking where you will find and the Virgin River. 40 original and

h Offi c e o f Uta replica homes and 3. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area businesses featur- includes Lake Powell, which boasts nearly ing period villages 3,200 kilometres of shoreline with hun- demonstrating dreds of side canyons, inlets and coves. crafts, trades and home-making skills 4. Flaming Gorge National Recreation typical of 19th- Area, features fishing, hiking, mountain century Utah and biking, wildlife watching and access to the This Is The Place the neighbouring Ashley National Forest. Monuments with its

sweeping panoramic T ou rism/ F rank Jensen ah Offi c e o f 5. Bryce Canyon National Park, is a series U t view of the Salt Lake of amphitheatres and bowls filled with Valley. Top: massive and delicate pillars of stone Petroglyphs, eroded into bizarre shapes called hoodoos. 12. Canyonlands National Park is divided Dry Fork into distinct districts: The River; Island in Canyon. 6. Wasatch Mountain State Park, has two the Sky; The Needles; and The Maze. excellent 36-hole golf courses, and Sol- Bottom: dier Hollow, 2002 Olympic Winter Games 13. Monument Valley Navajo Tribal George venue, is open year-round. Winter activi- Park’s Goulding’s Trading Post and S. Eccles ties include cross-country skiing, tubing Museum recreate life in the 1920s and Dinosaur Park. and snowshoeing. document the roles of Monument Valley’s formations in movies and television 7. Arches National Park features hundreds through several decades. of sandstone arch spans, including Utah icon Delicate Arch, and more than 2,000 14. Snow Canyon State Park is known for its significant eroded formations. enjoyable hiking through acres of vibrant red Navajo sandstone capped by an over- 8. Grand Staircase-Escalante National lay of black lava rock. Monument is divided into three areas: the canyons of the Escalante River, the Grand 15. Antelope Island State Park is the Staircase and the Kaiparowits Plateau. largest island in the Great Salt Lake and offers the most stunning views 9. Capitol Reef National Park features available of the Wasatch Mountain Waterpocket Fold, a massive uplift which range. It’s also home to free-roaming created huge dome-like formations and bison, bighorn sheep, deer, pronghorn historic sites that range from evidence of antelope and many varieties of shore the ancient Fremont Culture to orchards and wading birds. planted by settlers in the mid-1800s.

31 Canadian Traveller • January 2009 • UTAH 7 Northern Utah Salt Lake, Dinosaurland & Everything In-Between

The “Top of Utah” is the place to find adventure serenity and history all rolled into one scenic destination. Drive through canyons, take in the ballet or symphony, enjoy professional basketball and soccer and college football. Hike, ski, horseback ride, fish, climb. Indulge in fine dining and excellent shopping.

Explore the heritage of northern Utah cities along with their charming architecture and eclectic shops. Park City’s Historic Main Street is a 19th-century thoroughfare transformed into a premier shopping area and Odgen’s Historic 25th Street and Union Station has evolved from a 19th-century train station, to a 21st-century street lined with antique, boutique, and exclusive shops. Salt Lake City Salt Lake City is Utah’s capital and reflects a remarkable combina-

tion of history, culture and recreation. Settled in 1847 by pioneers SL CV B / E ri c Sch ramm seeking an escape from persecution, the city is the worldwide Antelope Island, Great Salt Lake. centre of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints, also known as the Mormons. of various faiths and the Utah State Capitol building. Salt Lake

UTAH In the winter, locals and visitors alike flock to nearby desti- City is also where seven canyons meet. Drive, hike, bike them in nation resorts to ski and snowboard on “The Greatest Snow on spring, summer and fall. Earth®”. In the summer, the same resorts offer outdoor dining, And then there is the Great Salt Lake itself. One of the most fields lush with wild flowers and more hiking and mountain biking asked-about tourist destinations in Utah, the Great Salt Lake and its than you could imagine. islands provide outstanding scenery and recreational opportunities. But Salt Lake is about more than snow and winter outdoor adventures. You’ll find accommodation to suit every budget, endless shopping, wonderful dining, symphony, opera, ballet, museums, Top Things To Do professional sports teams and the University of Utah. 10 Temple Square, the symbolic heart of the Church of Jesus in Salt Lake City Christ of Latter-Day Saints (Mormons) is Salt Lake’s biggest 1. Historic Temple Square: Three blocks with tourist attraction. Free concerts of the Mormon Tabernacle Choir nearly 20 attractions related to Mormon and beautifully landscaped grounds make this four-hectare block history. an impressive site. Other city-based attractions include the larg- 2. Skiing and Snowboarding: Area resorts aver- est genealogical library in the world, Clark Planetarium, restored age 500 inches of dry powder snow every year. 3. Salt Lake Historic Sites: Churches, gov- pioneer homes, Hogle Zoo, galleries, a collection of churches ernment buildings and pioneer sites. 4. Great Salt Lake: The largest lake between the Great Lakes and Pacific Ocean. 5. Geneaology/Family History Center: Largest genealogical library in the world. 6. Utah Jazz Basketball: NBA basketball action. 7. Bonneville Salt Flats: World famous racing course and unique habitat. 8. Theatre: Dozens of venues house live performances from opera to dinner theatre. 9. Kennecott Copper Mine: World’s largest man-made excavation. Strawberry 10. Miller Motorsports Park: State-of-the-art road racing facility in Tooele. Reservoir, Utah State Div. Parks & Recreation Heber Valley.

8 UTAH • January 2009 • Canadian Traveller 32 The Homestead with its landmark hot springs crater, boasts lodging, 18-hole golf course, scuba diving, cross-country skiing and winter sleigh rides. There are also three state parks in the Heber area. Wasatch Mountain State Park is a year-round adventure centre, offering golf, horseback riding, hiking, camping, snowmobiling, cross country skiing and other activities. Top 10 Attractions t his Jordanelle and Deer Creek In Heber Valley state parks have reservoirs that are top choices for boating, 1. Golf: Five world-class courses. S LCVB/Jas o n M a SL CV B / E ri c Sch ramm fishing, skiing and other water 2. Soldier Hollow: Longest tubing sports. lanes in Utah, plus cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and biking. Temple Square, Salt Lake City. One of the most relaxing 3. Skiing: Deer Valley, The Canyons ways to see the Heber Valley is and Park City Mountain Resort. The lake’s turquoise waters attract sailors, its white sand beaches to wander down one of three 4. Uinta Mountains: More than are popular with swimmers and sunbathers, and craggy outcrop- designated scenic backways 1,000 natural lakes in designated pings on Antelope Island and some shoreline areas draw hikers and and byways. The Alpine Loop roadless wilderness. 5. Strawberry Reservoir: Utah’s mountain bikers. Antelope Island State Park is the largest of the Scenic Backway circles around premier trout fishery. Great Salt Lake’s 10 islands. It is also home to a variety of flora and the east side of Mount Timpa- 6. Jordanelle Reservoir: Boating fauna and a great place to view wildlife. nogos; Mirror Lake Scenic By- and fishing at Hailstone West of Salt Lake City, the Bonneville Salt Flats, home to the way ascends the western Uinta Recreation Site. “World of Speed” races, attracts speed freaks from around the Mountains; while Provo Canyon 7. Area Resorts: World-class skiing and spas. world to the Miller Motorsports Park. Scenic Byway follows the Provo 8. Heber Valley Railroad: River between Heber City and 25-kilometre trip on vintage Heber Valley the city of Provo. railcars. The simple beauty of the snow peaked mountains and rich ag- Or you can hop aboard the 9. Scenic Byways: Alpine Loop ricultural land has earned Heber Valley, in Wasatch County, Heber Valley Historic Railroad. Scenic Backway, Mirror Lake Scenic Byway, Provo Canyon the title “Little Switzerland.” From the pristine mountains, to Vintage engines and coaches Scenic Byway. shopping, to the quiet streams, visitors can easily find relaxation travel through the Heber Valley 10. Provo River: Trophy trout fishing. and adventure. into Provo Canyon. The two main communities are Heber City and Midway, both Check out the local legends offering world-class resorts and spas close to all the recreation at Timpanogos Cave National Monument along with three natural Utah State University, options offered by the Wasatch and Uinta mountains including limestone caverns connected by man-made tunnels. Logan. golf, fly fishing, boating and water sports, plus skiing and other winter sports. Utah Valley And it really is all about the outdoor recreation here. The Heber Nestled at the base of the Wasatch Range of the Valley is home to Soldier Hollow, a 25-kilometre, world-class trail Rocky Mountains just 40 minutes south of Salt Lake system for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing enthusiasts. City, is Utah County, a favourite for outdoor recre- Other popular Heber-based activities include snowmobiling, troll- ation. Hiking, camping, fishing, horseback riding, ing and fly-fishing, golfing, and mountain biking. Annual events mountain biking, golfing, and water sports of all kinds include horse shows, cutter races, rodeos, antique auto shows, are popular summer pastimes, while hunting, snow- and experimental aircraft fly-in. The city of Midway celebrates an- mobiling, ice climbing, downhill and cross-country

nual “Swiss Days” with races, parades, food, and a flower show. skiing satisfy winter adventurers CV B Valley Ca ch e

33 Canadian Traveller • January 2009 • UTAH 9 At the centre of all this activity are the sister communities of by man made tunnels; and Provo and Orem, which together form the second-largest metro- the Provo River for premier politan area of Utah and are regularly cited in surveys as among trout fishing, just minutes the best places to live in the U.S. out of town. Area attractions include Seven Peaks, a water theme park with One of the best ways to more than 40 ways to soak, slide, surf, or swim; Sundance Village, discover the area’s attrac- Robert Redford’s retreat up Provo Canyon that offers skiing, dining, tions and wild beauty is summer theatre, hiking, fishing, art workshops and concerts; and to travel the scenic back- Thanksgiving Point with Thanksgiving Point Gardens, Children’s Dis- ways and byways. The covery Garden and North American Museum of Ancient Life. Alpine Loop Scenic Back- f T ou rism/ F rank Jensen ah Offi c e o f At the Springville Museum of Art, in Utah’s “Art City,” you can way, Nebo Loop Scenic U t see the state’s oldest and most beautiful museum for the visual Byway, Provo Canyon Na- Mt. Timpanogos, Utah Valley. fine arts, noted for its collection of Utah art. tional Scenic Byway and Brigham Young University is one of the largest privately-owned Nebo Loop Byway wind through local mountains and canyons. universities in the United States. Take a tour of the campus and see the Museum of Art and its family interactive centre; the Monte Cache Valley L. Bean Life Science Museum that houses an extensive collection Logan is located in beautiful Cache Valley, north of Salt Lake of biological specimens and exhibits; the BYU Museum of Peoples City. Whether you stroll the streets of historic downtown, pass and Cultures and its collections of artifacts of prehistoric Utah, the hot summer days on the shores of Bear Lake, drive along the American Southwest, Mesoamerica, and Polynesia dating back colour-drenched Logan Canyon Scenic Byway in autumn, or join 50,000 years; and the BYU Earth Science Museum and one of the locals sledding down Main Street – this is the place to remember nation’s most extensive fossil collections. simpler times. Outdoors you can head to Bridal Veil Falls, a double cataract Local attractions include Utah State University, founded in 1888; waterfall in Provo Canyon; Timpanogos Cave National Monument the Logan L.D.S. Temple and neighbouring tabernacle; Willow Park to explore the beauty of three natural limestone caverns connected Zoo; and Ellen Eccles Theater.

UTAH 801-534-4900 www.visitsaltlake.com

Salt Lake’s Premiere Four Diamond Hotel

With its prime location just minutes from the world-class ski resorts of Park City, UT, the hotel offers the kind of warm hospitality, E xperience A lta inviting atmosphere and top-notch services Known as the Utah Alps, sure to make it your home away from home. the Alta Skiing experience is Full Breakfast is included in the winter rates. 2nd to none, across the USA Salt Lake CityStay in a luxurious condo or home with spectacular views, most with hot tubs, many ski-in/ski-out to www.parkcitypeaks.com Alta and Snowbird Resorts. Choose from five premier locations with over 40 units that sleep 4 to 16 guests in two to seven bedroom comfort! All amenities - cozy, 22 Years of 4 Diamond Distinction The spacious rooms and suites at the Park well-appointed interiors, full kitchens, fireplaces, City Peaks feature wonderful amenities. • Excellent Accommodations washer/dryers linens, housekeeping, and, of course, When it's time to relax, guests at the hotel great access to the slopes! Receive a 10% discount • Superior Service can enjoy a heated indoor/outdoor swimming when you mention this ad. • e Largest Rooms in Its Class pool, whirlpools and dry sauna. Guests can Call Toll Free: 1-800-562-2888-code CT also enjoy our full service restaurant the Call 800.453.9450 for Reservations E-Mail: [email protected] Rustic Creek Grille. If guests are looking Web Site: www.canyonservices.com for a place to unwind our Upper Deck Sports Bar and Grille is the perfect place. Canyon Services Luxury Condos & Homes Call toll free 1-800-649-5012 in Little  S M S • SLC, UT  or 435-649-5000 Cottonwood Canyon .. • ./

10 UTAH • January 2009 • Canadian Traveller 34 Top 10 Things To Do in Utah Valley 1. Brigham Young University: One of the largest private universities in the world. 2. Sundance Resort: Skiing, mountain biking, horseback riding and hiking, musical and cultural programs. 3. Thanksgiving Point: The North American Museum of Ancient Life, impressive gardens, golf course, theatres, shops and restaurants. 4. Provo River: Blue-ribbon trout stream famous for large brown trout. 5. Mt. Timpanogos & Timp Cave: Imposing mountain offers great hiking; Timpanogos Cave is one of the best in the region. ad/Jeff Terry ll ey H is to ri c R ai l r o ad/Jeff Va H e b er 6. Alpine Loop Scenic Byway: Climbs the back side of Mt Timpanogos, past Sundance Resort and down American Fork Canyon. 7. Bridal Veil Falls: Impressive, two-tiered waterfall along the Provo River. 8. Springville Art Museum: Utah’s Art City is home to one of the best fine arts museums in the region. f T ou rism/ F rank Jensen ah Offi c e o f

U t 9. Utah Lake State Park: Boaters, anglers, campers and nature lovers enjoy this developed state park. 10. Deer Creek Reservoir State Park: Offers fishing, water skiing, jet skiing and camping. f T ou rism/ F rank Jensen ah Offi c e o f U t Cache Valley also hosts several large events: the Top of Utah National Historic Site, where the Union Pacific joined the Central Top: Heber Marathon, Cache Valley Cruise-In Car Show, the Utah Festival Opera Pacific to create the first transcontinental railroad, to historic hotels Valley Historic Company and the Festival of the American West. One of Cache and restaurants, pioneer trails, Chesterfield ghost town, and the nearby Railroad. Valley’s main attractions is the American West Heritage Center, mining town of Soda Springs, Idaho. Step back in time at the National Bottom: North where you can relive 100 years of the American West. Oregon/California Trail Center. American The wider area of Bear River Basin, on the Utah-Idaho Hardware Ranch Elk Refuge is where more than 600 Rocky Museum border, has an interesting heritage: ancestral home of the Mountain elk winter. The ranch is a trailhead for many ATV trails. of Ancient Life, Thanksgiving Shoshone; stomping grounds of mountain men; and home to Other activities in the area include fishing in Blacksmith Fork River, Point. Mormon pioneers. Heritage sites range from the Golden Spike Curtis Creek, Logan River and Rock Creek; snowmobiling at the

35 Canadian Traveller • January 2009 • UTAH 11 Top 10 Things In Logan Bridgerland snowmobile complex; skiing at Beaver Mountain; and 1. American West Heritage Center: Living his- watersports on Bear Lake, in Bear Lake State Park. tory site celebrates a century of the old west. 2. Bear Lake Area: Often referred to as the Northeast Utah Caribbean of the Rockies. 3. Logan Canyon National Scenic Byway: Rich in western lore, Northeast Utah was home to mountain men, Abundant wildlife viewing, hiking, biking, pioneers, outlaws, and Native Americans. Scenic Byways and Back- birding and fishing. ways take visitors through towering mountain peaks and beautiful 4. Utah State University Campus and Aggie scenery. Stop in Vernal and visit the largest Jurassic Dinosaur Quarry Ice Cream: Historic buildings, beautiful in the world, along with many other dinosaur exhibits and activities. landscaping and Aggie ice cream. See elaborate costumes, and taste authentic Native American food 5. Utah Festival Opera Company: World-class at the Ute Tribe PowWow in Roosevelt. Strap on your spurs and opera in the heart of spectacular mountain buckle your chaps for the PRCA Dinosaur Roundup Rodeo in Vernal. scenery. And then there are the dinosaurs. 6. Hardware Ranch Elk Refuge: Take a sleigh The Utah Field House of Natural History State Park Museum or wagon ride to view the herd of Rocky boasts exhibits and displays inside and out. Vivid murals and tile Mountain elk. 7. Cache Valley Food Tour: Visit local food floors help visitors connect geological time to real places in Ver- factories to taste a sample of coffee, cheese, nal. Life-size replicas of dinosaurs peer into the Museum windows honey, chocolates, ice cream and cookies. from the Dinosaur Gardens. At Dinosaur National Monument you 8. Beaver Mountain Ski Resort: Family-owned can see replica fossils, a video about paleontologists at work resort boasts Utah’s famous powder snow. and the fossil wall. 9. Fish Area Streams and Lakes: The Logan The Flaming Gorge-Uintas National Scenic Byway 191 is a and Blacksmith Fork rivers rank among stunning drive through the Ashley National Forest and Flaming Utah’s best trout streams, Bear Lake and Hyrum Reservoirs. 10. Golf: Four top-rated courses. Top 5 Things In Vernal/ Flaming Gorge Gorge National Recreation Area that features 15 Interpretive Way- 1. Dinosaur National Monument: Dinosaur quarry with UTAH side Pullouts and four self-guided Nature Trails associated with hundreds of fossils and paleontologists at work. its signature theme “Wildlife through the ages.” Diversions along 2. Utah Field House of Natural History Museum: Dino- Byway 191 include Red Fleet State Park (with 200 million-year- saur replicas, complete skeletons, and fossils. 3. Flaming Gorge: Great place for boating, water toys and old dinosaur tracks), Flaming Gorge Dam (with guided tours), Red trophy fishing. Canyon Overlook, and Sheep Creek Canyon Geologic area. 4. Drive through the Ages: Spectacular drive along Scenic At the Dry Fork Petroglyphs, on the McConkie Ranch north Byway US 191. of Vernal, view panels from the Fremont culture all along the 5. Sheep Creek – Spirit Lake Scenic Backway: Drive 60-metre-high cliffs of the Navajo Formation. F through the forests of the Uinta Mountains. T ill Tou rism/ To m Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area. h Offi c e o f Uta

12 UTAH • January 2009 • Canadian Traveller 36 AD_CanadianTraveler_TA4782_A1C4.indd 1 12/5/08 12:14:38 PM Central Utah Nordic Traditions & Outdoor Wilderness

The Central Utah region is a goldmine of Utah heritage and outdoor recreation. The influence of Scandinavian pioneers sent by Brigham Young to settle this area can be seen in the artwork, traditions, and lifestyle of the people today. Many customs of the pioneers are reflected in old buildings, schools, and local bed and break- fasts. During Ephraim’s Scandinavian Heritage Festival, held over Memorial Day weekend, visitors can enjoy story telling, historical tours, entertainment, buy hand-made quilts, saddles, pottery and pine furniture.

Manti, a town of just 5,500 people, takes on 20,000 visitors during rated the trail as one of the best 15 trails in the U.S., while ATV the Mormon Miracle Pageant in June. This event begins at dusk Illustrated ranks it in the top five. From the main Paiute Trail there and performances are free. For a great rodeo adventure, catch are numerous side trips leading to spectacular scenery, fishing, or the Ute Stampede Rodeo in Nephi. Every July, this traditional cel- surrounding towns for supplies, lodging, or fuel. ebration features parades, carnival rides, golf tournaments, rodeo Little Sahara Recreation Area has become one of Utah’s greatest events, and car shows. Take a drive along the mountain ridge of sandy playgrounds, boasting more than 24,200 hectares of natural Skyline Drive, or fish the mountain lakes. sand for dune buggy, sand rail, ATV, and dirt bike enthusiasts to Adrenalin junkies head to the Paiute ATV Trail, a 370-kilometre explore. The Little Sahara also has two of the word’s largest sand- loop crossing rugged canyons, deserts, and three mountain ranges boxes, fenced play areas for kids that each cover several hectares. designed for recreational ATV riding. Dirt Wheels magazine has Rock climbers head to Maple Canyon; and river runners float

UTAH down the Sevier River. Rock hounds come to Central Utah for trilobites, gem quality topaz and red beryl. In winter, snowmobilers and snowkiters come to the area for the excellent conditions. For a leisurely driving tour through the area, travel U.S. Highway 89, the “Heritage Highway”, past countryside still deeply rooted in the farming and ranching lifestyle of Mormon pioneers. Not far below the surface, you can catch a glimpse of famous outlaws, Native American cultures, mining barons, Spanish priests and rugged trappers. The Highway is divided into five main regions: Little Denmark, named because of the influence of Scandinavian pioneers; Sevier Valley Area, where farmers and ranchers follow the ancient Native American tradition of living off the land; the Headwaters Area, where communities like Marysvale, Junction, Kingston, Circleville, Panguitch, Panguitch Lake and Hatch are tied together by their common dependence on the Sevier River; Boulder Loop which provides access to Capitol Reef and Bryce Canyon national parks; and Under the Rim, named for its location beneath the redrock rims of the Colorado plateau and where Gunsmoke was filmed for decades. Skyline Drive is the crown jewel of the Manti-La Sal National Forest. Sometimes described as the “Highway to Heaven”, it wanders along the spine of the Wasatch Plateau and offers up breathtaking views of mile-deep canyons, lake-filled basins, the Sanpete Valley, and alpine meadows and forests. During the winter, the Skyline Drive Snowkiting Complex is open to snowkiting and kiteboarding. Mount Nebo Loop Scenic Byway travels through mountain for- Skyline Drive, Manti-La Sal National Forest. ests, past miniature waterfalls, fishing, and beautiful fiery colours Utah Office of Tourism/Mel Lewis

14 UTAH • January 2009 • Canadian Traveller 38 Utah Office of Tourism/Tom Till

Slot canyon waterfall, Manti-La Sal National Forest.

in the fall. A short easy, paved hiking trail leads to Devils Kitchen, a tiny replica of Bryce Canyon carved into the Wasatch Mountains. Utah’s oldest existing governmental building is the Territorial Statehouse in Fillmore. Built in anticipation of Utah’s statehood, the Statehouse is the south wing of a large domed capitol building in the form of a Roman cross, commissioned by Brigham Young and designed by Truman O. Angell. It is the only portion of the planned structure that was built and was finished in time for the December 1855 meeting of the Territorial Legislature, which was the only full session held in the old statehouse. Today it is a museum and houses an excellent collection of Mormon pioneer artifacts. Below: The Old Capitol Arts Festival is held at the Statehouse every Mountain biking in the September. The theme is “The Pioneering Spirit” and this mountains festival features fine arts and crafts booths, pioneer demon- of Central strations and live entertainment. Utah. For more than 20 years Cove Fort was a way station for travellers along the “Mormon Corridor”, a string of settlements Bottom: Maple Lake, stretching from Idaho to Nevada connected by a network of roads, Nebo Loop telegraph lines, and postal routes. Built in 1867 out of volcanic Road. rock and limestone quarried nearby, the fort contains 12 rooms, six on the north and six on the south, and each has been restored to its look and feel from the 1867 to 1877 period. The rooms contain authentic furnishings and artifacts. F

Top 10 Things To Do in Central Utah

1. Paiute ATV Trail: Rated as one of the best in the world, travels through incredible Utah Office of Tourism/Frank Jensen scenery and past historic spots. 2. Little Sahara Sand Dunes: Ride ATVs or dune buggies over the hills. 3. Fremont Indian State Park: Extensive rock art left by the ancient Fremont people. 4. Fish Lake: Fish, camp and boat at this beautiful, high mountain lake. 5. Bullion Canyon and Marysvale: Old mining boomtown, pan for gold. 6. West Desert: Remote and rugged backcountry with wide variety of semi-precious gems, minerals and fossils. 7. Otter Creek State Park: Fishing and camping are big draws at this state park. 8. Big Rock Candy Mountain: Minerals have coloured this distinctive landmark green, tan, brown, orange, yellow and gray. 9. Skyline Drive: The 560-kilometre Arapeen Off-Highway Vehicle Trail System includes the Skyline Drive and trails branching from it. In winter, this country offers great snowmobile and snowkite play areas. 10. Palisade State Park: Fish, camp and golf at this park, located in the mountains Utah Office of Tourism/Mel Lewis east of the town of Stirling. 11. Tracking Butch Cassidy: Okay, there are actually 11 things to do. Discover the boy- hood stomping grounds of Butch Cassidy, where he was born, raised, and worked as a ranch hand.

39 Canadian Traveller • January 2009 • UTAH 15 Southwestern Utah National Parks, Western History & Rugged Beauty

St. George Area CVB Red rock cliffs against a deep blue sky, snow-capped mountains in the distance – southwestern Utah will take your breath away. From leisurely drives among inspiring views of wind-carved sandstone, washed out canyons, and massive sculpted cliffs, to mountain biking, hiking, and rock climbing among the same scenery, there is plenty to discover here.

St. George/Zion Area The St. George area is a historical gold mine, full of 19th- In 1861 Brigham Young, the Mormon prophet-colonizer, gazed century homes, buildings and old dirt roads leading to fascinat- northward up a desperately barren valley. Waving his hand to in- ing ghost towns and prehistoric dinosaur footprints. Interesting clude the entire setting, he said, “There will yet be built between Mormon historic sites include the town of Pine Valley, where you those volcanic ridges a city with spires, towers...and homes with can see one of the oldest surviving Mormon chapels. At Jacob many inhabitants.” And so St. George came to be. Hamblin’s home in Santa Clara, you can experience rustic, pioneer Centrally located in some of nature’s finest scenery, St. George living. Brigham Young’s winter home in St. George is also open for has become a winter resort for snowbirds, as well as a key gate- tours. Several pioneer-era homes, including some built by promi-

Top: DinosaurUTAH way to the greatest concentration of national parks and natural nent citizens, can be seen at Green Gate Village. Discover wonders on earth. Within easy driving distances are such world- The St. George L.D.S. Temple and the St. George Tabernacle Museum, are great monuments to the determined efforts of the early pio- St. George. renowned destinations as Zion, Bryce and Grand Canyon National Parks; Cedar Breaks and Pipe Springs National Monuments, Snow neers who were sent to settle the area. A fun walking tour guide Below: Canyon State Park, the Virgin River Gorge, Kolob Canyons, Lake is available at the visitor’s centre housed in the old St. George Amphitheatre, Powell and Lake Mead. Courthouse. Other historic sites in the area include Grafton, an Bryce Canyon. old ghost town that served as a backdrop for the movie Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. An- other ghost town is Silver Reef, where the Wells Fargo building and the ruins of silver mines tell the story of a boomtown that swelled to 1,500 people between 1878 and 1882. But more than anything, St. George has become a fine place to relax and enjoy year-round leisure time. The area boasts 12 great golf courses, with others nearby. The tennis college at Green Valley offers everything the tennis en- thusiast could ask for. St. George is the gateway to Zion National Park. Whether you walk among the towering overhangs, hike through the narrow canyons or scale the sandstone cliffs, Zion is an awe-inspiring experience. A variety of trails allow people of all ages and skill levels to experience the gran- deur of Zion Canyon. Stop by the visitor centres, museum and bookstores in the park to learn more about the park’s history and features. The Kolob Canyons area, the western portion of the park, offers stunning views of Zion’s Garfield County CVB/Janet Reffert

16 UTAH • January 2009 • Canadian Traveller 40 Top 15 Attractions In The St. George/Zion Area 1. National Parks: Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef and Zion National Parks. 2. Golf: 12 courses offer year-round play. 4. Events: Major events include the St. George Marathon, a qualifier for the Boston Mara- Lake Powell. thon; Easter Arts Festival and Antique Car Utah office of tourism/nick driggs Show; Zion Canyon Arts and Flute Festival; Huntsman World Senior Games; and Dickens’ Christmas Festival. 5. Tuacahn: Natural amphitheatre that hosts “Broadway in the Desert” theatre productions. 6. Dinosaur Walkway: Some of the oldest and best-preserved tracks in the world. 7. Pine Valley Mountains: Hiking, biking, horseback riding in high forested mountains. 8. Historic Sites: Pioneer history in downtown buildings and surrounding ghost towns. 9. Kolob Canyons: Western-most section of Zion NP, with stunning views of cliffs and canyons. 10. Kolob Terrace: Central section of Zion boasts Subway slot canyon. 11. Hike/Canyoneer: Wide range of hiking and extreme hiking experiences, with some lower trails wheelchair accessible. 12. Mountain Bike: Pedal the Scenic Drive, and other roads; Pa’rus Trail is the only biking trail in the park. 13. Springdale: Haven for artists with wide choice of recreational activities. Cedar City 14. Scenic Byways: Zion Park Scenic Byway, To the north, Cedar City is less a city than a sophisticated small Heritage 89, Smithsonian Butte National town. It has no towering buildings, no traffic jams and no evening Back Country Byway. rush hour. One of the things it does have is a splendid location in 15. Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park: Picturesque dunes open to ATVs and off-road the peaceful foothills of scenic southwestern Utah. William Shake- vehicles. speare would find himself at home in Cedar City, home of the Tony Award-winning Utah Shakespearean Festival that attracts fans from around the world every summer. trademark cliffs and canyons, while the Kolob Terrace area has a Cedar City’s Historic Downtown area features quaint shops, paved road that offers a scenic drive into the mountains, through art galleries, local restaurants, three coffee houses, a very unique lush forest, with classic Zion scenery all along the way. music store, several live music venues, an old time soda fountain, antique stores, and regional arts and crafts shops, along with

St. George Area CVB/Clint Crawley Golf, St. George.

41 Canadian Traveller • January 2009 • UTAH 17 the Cedar City Heritage The- Bryce Canyon Country atre, which hosts a variety of Technicolour cliffs reach skyward, isolated canyons beckon hikers theatrical and musical events and miles and miles of shoreline attract water sport enthusiasts – throughout the year. this is Bryce Canyon Country. A rea CVB/Bre tt J o r g ensen The Iron Mission State Park Bryce Canyon National Park is filled with incredible red rock Museum chronicles local his- formations, from brilliant red sandstone hoodoos and mazes to

. Ge o r g e . Off-road action. St tory, when Brigham Young sent open amphitheaters and lush green forests, The wonder of Bryce Mormon missionaries to the can be experienced by horseback ride, guided tour or a solitary area to mine iron in the 1850s. Displays include horse-drawn ve- hike. The amazing “hoodoos” stand guard over the landscape for hicles and a collection of Native American and pioneer artifacts. miles. Watch the scenery come to life as it changes colour with the Just east of Cedar City, Brian Head Resort offers 200 skiable sun. Learn the history of the park with the award-winning video at hectares, 53 runs and plenty of backcountry and a lift-assisted the visitor centre. A 59-kilometre round-trip drive through the park tubing park. In summer the area is a renowned destination for has numerous viewpoints. mountain biking, offering great trails through mountain forests. Bryce Canyon also has some of the darkest, starriest night You’ll also find great snowmobiling terrain nearby, along with ex- skies in the U.S. Ranger staff offer several night programs includ- cellent hiking trails and fishing waters. Skiing usually runs from ing telescope viewing, constellation tours, full moon hikes and late November to mid-April, and biking trails can be ridden from astronomy talks. late June or early July through October. Historic Panguitch offers up a fascinating look at the area’s Native Americans called Cedar Breaks National Monument the Mormon pioneer past, while the Anasazi State Park Museum offers “Circle of Painted Cliffs.” This amazing concentration of limestone an introduction to this ancient culture. formations created by uplift and erosion in a five-kilometre wide Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument is divided into amphitheatre features brilliant colours and, deep within the coli- three sections – The Grand Staircase, the Kaiparowits Plateau and seum, limestone spires, columns, pinnacles, arches and canyons the Canyons of the Escalante – that all share three qualities: great of red, yellow, and purple. A 9.5-kilometre scenic drive passes four distances; difficult terrain; and an unequaled remoteness. From overlooks, each offering a different perspective. the south, the land of the Grand Staircase section rises in great terraces of vermilion, white gray and pink. The Canyons of the Escalante offer some of the best

UTAH hiking, ATV and mountain biking in the world. Escalante Petrified Forest State Park has a small lake and features colourful deposits of mineralized wood and dinosaur bones, while Ko- dachrome Basin is a spectacle of sandstone chimneys that change colour with the day’s moods. One of the best ways to see this country is to travel All-American Highway 12, between Torrey

Anasazi Village State Park. T ou rism/ F rank Jensen ah Offi c e o f U t

18 UTAH • January 2009 • Canadian Traveller 42 Top 10 Things To Do In Cedar City

1. Utah Shakespearean Festival: Acclaimed Shakespearean and contemporary productions. 2. Cedar Breaks: National Monument, with multi-coloured rock formations. 3. Brian Head: In winter, ski or snowboard; in summer, challenge one of the area’s rugged bike trails. 4. Kolob Canyons: Section of Zion National Park with scenic drive and great hiking trails. 5. Iron Mission State Park: Museum displays a great collection of Indian and pioneer artifacts. 6. Parowan Gap: Fantastic ancient Indian rock art. 7. Scenic Highways 14 & 148: Hwy 14 heads through the lush forest on Cedar Moun- tain and past scenic Navajo Lake; Hwy 148 continues up to Cedar Breaks and Brian Utah Head. Shakespearean 8. Snowmobile: Play with snow and machine at the Cedar Mountain/East Fork Snowmobile Complex. Festival, 9. Southern Utah University: Hosts cultural, artistic, educational and sporting events. Cedar City. 10. Cedar City Historic Downtown Shopping District: Unique “Mom & Pop” establishments include shops, galleries and restaurants. and Escalante as it passes through Red Canyon, Bryce Canyon North Rim just 90 minutes away. The North Rim offers a quieter, National Park, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, more personal view of the Canyon, with its pine, spruce and and over Boulder Mountain in the Dixie National Forest, ending fir forest. Bright Angel Point, at the end of the main road, is a near the entrance of Capitol Reef National Park. Car & Driver short, easy walk from the parking area and offers a classic view Magazine has called it “the most scenic drive in America”. of the Canyon. To the south, both Grand Canyon North Rim and Lake Powell Kane County is known as “Utah’s Little Hollywood” because attract visitors. One of the seven Natural Wonders of the World, of all the movies shot in the area. More Westerns were produced Grand Canyon National Park is just south of Kanab, with the here than anywhere outside of California. Every August, Kanab

Client: Cedar City & Brian Head Tourism Bureau43 Canadian Traveller • January 2009 • UTAH 19 Issue Date: July / American issue Ad Size: 1/2 Page Horizontal Top 20 Things To Do In Bryce Canyon Country 1. Bryce Canyon National Park: View thousands of delicate spires, pinnacles, and mazes carved out of brilliant pink cliffs. 2. All American Highway 12: The “most scenic drive in America.” 3. Historic Panguitch City: This community is full of beautiful old pioneer homes. 4. ATV Trail System: Ride miles of ATV trails over moun- nATIOnAL PARK tains and through canyons, with spectacular views of pines and red rock. 5. Kodachrome Basin: Massive sandstone chimneys, ever- changing from gray and white to shades of red. 6. Boulder Mountain: Drive the mountain’s rugged 4X4 roads. 7. Wildlife: Photograph, watch or hunt trophy big game animals. 8. Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument: Deep, narrow slot canyons, rugged 4X4 roads and magnificent natural arches. 9. Anasazi State Park Museum: Restored ancient Indian village. 10. Escalante State Park: A petrified forest, fossilized dinosaur bones and a reservoir for boating and fishing. 11. Grand Canyon North Rim: Some people say this is the most spectacular view of the Grand Canyon. 12. Little Hollywood: More than 70 western films were made in Kanab. Take the “walk of fame” of great western stars. 13. Buckskin Gulch: Hike the world’s longest slot canyon. 14. Best Friends Animal Sanctuary: The largest sanctuary for companion animals in the U.S.

UTAH Two hours north and a million miles 15. Scenic Byway 89: Drive by the panoramic views of the away from Las Vegas, this National towers of Zion National Park and the pink cliffs of Red Park favorite will amaze and inspire! Canyon. 16. Houseboat: Stay on Lake Powell in style (air condition- ing, microwave, TV), sleeping in soft beds. 17. Rainbow Bridge: The largest natural bridge in the world. EveryThing from A To Zion 18. John Wesley Powell Museum: Learn about Glen Can- yon, before and after the lake, and about the early exploration of this area. 19. Watersports on Lake Powell: Ski, wake board, fishing, kayaking. 20. Boat Tours: Tour Lake Powell on half-day or full-day excursions.

Broadway In celebrates its fame with the Western Legends Round-Up and Western Film Festival. The Desert, St. George. There are Western vendors and exhibits, entertainment and concerts, cowboy poetry, even autograph sessions. At Moqui Cave, you can see the largest collection of dinosaur tracks in southern Utah, as well as a huge display of Native American artifacts, a large collection of pre-Columbian artifacts from Mexico and ceramics and tools form the early lives of the Anasazi and Navajo peoples. Lake Powell is part of the Glen Canyon Na- tional Recreation Area. Spend a day, or spend a week. In addition to the views and sights, boat- A year round golf destination that has ing, water-skiing, cliff diving, hiking, and other lots of options for every golfer’s skill activities will keep you coming back for more. level, schedule and pocketbook! Houseboats and other types of watercraft can be rented at local marinas. www.AToZion.com National Park Service F

20 UTAH • January 2009 • Canadian Traveller 44 800-869-6635 www.AtoZion.com

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45 Canadian Traveller • January 2009 • UTAH 21 Southeastern Utah Dinosaurs, Swells & Desert Beauty

Stark stone arches silhouetted against the hot, blue sky, deep canyons, entire galleries of petroglyphs, haunting desert and adrenaline pumping sports – this is southeastern Utah. It’s also dinosaur quarries, rich pioneer heritage and funky towns and artists’ colonies.

Moab As intimate as Arches N.P. can feel, Canyonlands is a vast Moab is truly where adventure begins in Utah. The state’s self- tract of staggering diversity. The largest national park in Utah, styled adventure capital, the city boasts access to two national Canyonlands is divided into three districts by the Green and Colo- parks, Arches National Park and Canyonlands National Park, rado rivers. The Island in the Sky sits atop a 450-metre mesa Manti-La Sal National Forest and Dead Horse Point State Park, offering 160-kilometre views of Canyon Country. A 16-kilometre as well as all the wild water recreation of the Colorado River and scenic drive through the Needles district passes sandstone spires, off-roading excitement of the Slickrock Trail. arches and beautiful sculpted rock formations. The Maze district, Arches National Park is a red rock wonderland of inspiring a 78-square kilometre puzzle in sandstone, is considered one of landscapes and the world’s largest concentration of natural the most remote and inaccessible sections in the U.S. sandstone arches. You can catch a glimpse of its wonders on a Dead Horse Point State Park is one of the state’s most spec- driving tour, or explore its geographic formations on hiking and tacular parks with lookouts 600 metres above the Colorado camping excursions. River as it snakes its way through the Canyonlands. The La Sal UTAH

Rainbow Bridge National Monument.

Utah Office of Tourism/Tom Till

22 UTAH • January 2009 • Canadian Traveller 46 St. George Area CVB/Fairways Media

Mountains, east of the city are part of Manti-La Sal National Forest frogs, otters and desert wildife and offer cool summer hiking, fishing and camping and excellent like mule deer. cross-country skiing in winter. Back in the desert, the The Colorado Riverway Recreation Area is a well-used area Slickrock Bike Trail in Sand along the river that attracts hikers, bikers, rock-climbers, off- Flats Recreation Area attracts road enthusiasts and visitors out for a leisurely drive along Utah’s more than 100,000 visitors Scenic Byways. every year. The word “slick- And then there are the river-runners. The Colorado offers some rock” was derived from early Biking in of the most exhilarating rafting adventures in the U.S. Divided into settlers whose metal-shod horses found the stretch of barren Canyonlands four sections, the river passes red rock canyons, waterfalls and rock slick to cross. Mountain bikers find just the opposite because National Anasazi ruins. Westwater Canyon, northeast of Moab is a 27-kilo- the sandstone is as “slick” as coarse sandpaper, and they can Park. metre stretch of water dubbed the “Little Grand” in comparison manoeuver their bikes in unusual positions. to the Grand Canyon itself. Fisher Towers, also northeast of town, Art lovers and history buffs can view excellent ancient Native is an excellent whitewater rafting trip for first-timers and families. American rock art on numerous rock panels in the Moab area. Some Cataract Canyon, southwest of Moab, is considered by experienced date back many thousands of years. Many panels are easy to find, whitewater rafters to be among the best whitewater rafting in the like the one in Arches National Park near the Wolfe Ranch Trailhead U.S. Then there is the Grand Canyon itself, with trips that cover the for the Delicate Arch Hike. Several can be seen from Potash Road. entire canyon, or just portions of it. Moab guides and outfitters can The Moab Visitors Center has a great printed guide to area rock offer all manner of trips to suit all levels of adventure. art sites. It includes a map, descriptions of the sites, and detailed Birders flock to the Matheson Wetlands Preserve, instructions to help you find them. a critical stepping-stone for migrating waterfowl, rap- Speaking of art, Moab may have more tors and shorebirds. More than 175 species have been artists-per-capita than any other town in Utah. spotted in the 350-hectare preserve, along with beavers, Painters, potters, poets, photographers, writers, dancers, actors, musicians and mimes, jewelers, sculptors and playwrights have all been drawn to the city’s incredible landscapes and scenic Top 10 Things In Moab beauty. The monthly Moab Art Walk includes 1. Arches National Park: World’s largest con- featured artists and receptions. Other art events centration of natural stone arches. include the Moab Music Festival, the Moab Folk 2. Canyonlands National Park: Canyons and Festival and the Moab Arts Festival. plateaus carved by the Colorado and the Fans of western history can explore Moab’s past Green rivers. at the Dan O’Laurie Museum of Moab. Photos and 3. Moab City: Resort town, known as Utah’s artifacts chronicle pioneer life that centred around adventure capital.

ranching and mining. There are also displays of T ou rism/ F rank Jensen ah Offi c e o f

4. Mountain Bike – Slickrock: The trail that U t launched the fat tire craze. prehistoric tools, textiles, pottery and jewelry and a Capitol 5. Major Events: From cowboy poetry to the hands-on testing area in the Paleontology and Mineralogy. Dome, Moab Arts Festival. In the 1940s, John Ford discovered the beauty of Moab’s Can- Captiol 6. Whitewater Rafting: Some of the best yonlands and filmed many movies here, with some of the biggest Reef whitewater river rafting in the world. stars of the day. The museum houses memorabilia from the early National Park. 7. Hiking – Delicate Arch: The most recogniz- films to recently filmed productions and the Moab Area Travel Coun- able arch in Arches National Park. cil has developed three movie location tours that take you right to 8. Dead Horse Point: Overlook is 600 metres the actual film sites. above the Colorado River. 9. Off Road – Poison Spider: Featured trail at the Easter Jeep Safari. Castle Country 10. Scenic Byways: Four roads with incredible Home to the San Rafael Swell, Nine Mile Canyon, Goblin Valley, views and access to major recreation spots. Scofield, Green River, Huntington, and Millsite State Parks, and a section of the Manti-La Sal National Forest, Utah’s Castle Country

47 Canadian Traveller • January 2009 • UTAH 23 Top 10 Things To Do in is a land as diverse as its people. Outdoor action includes hiking, Castle Country biking, off-roading, river-running, camping, fishing, and hunting in mountains and deserts. Less strenuous attractions feature dinosaur 1. Nine Mile Canyon: Utah’s best display of Fremont rock art. sites, museums, ancient Native American rock art, railroad and min- 2. San Rafael Swell: Vast deserts, yawning ing history, ghost towns, winter activities and year round events. canyons, rock art, sheer cliffs and breathtak- The area was settled in the 1800s by Mormon pioneers, but ing views. it was the discovery of coal in the area in the late 1870s, and the 3. Wedge Overlook & Buckhorn Draw: Pic- arrival of miners from around the world, that allowed this part of tograph panels and Utah’s “Little Grand Canyon.” Utah to become one of the most ethnically and religiously diverse 4. Goblin Valley: Sandstone goblins that seem areas of the state. You find Catholic and Greek Orthodox churches to come to life on a moon-lit night. alongside the Mormon chapels. 5. Huntington/Eccles Canyon Scenic Byway: Price sits at the top of the San Rafael Swell, which is home to High elevation lakes, diverse vegetation, vast deserts, yawning canyons, and fascinating rock formations. cliffs and escarpments. 6. River Running on the Green: Rolling Native American petroglyphs and Indian writing at Nine Mile Can- rapids through deep canyons carved by the yon are only a part of the many attractions in the area. Green River. The area is rich in dinosaur history. The College of Eastern 7. Museums of Discovery: CEU Prehistoric Utah’s Prehistoric Museum holds many treasures, including an Museum, Western Mining & Railroad Allosaurus in the Hall of Dinosaurs and the Utahraptor, discovered Museum, John Wesley Powell Museum, Museum of San Rafael, Emery Pioneer in 1991. Museum, and Cleveland Lloyd Dinosaur Just south of town, the Cleveland-Lloyd Dinosaur Quarry is Quarry. one of the world’s leading dinosaur fossil sources, with more than 8. Skyline Drive: Rugged alpine mountain ter- 12,000 individual bones and one dinosaur egg coming from this rain for off road vehicle or snowmobile. fossil bed. The newly renovated quarry has upper and lower obser- 9. Butch Cassidy Tracking: Castle Gate is the site of the Wild Bunch’s only Utah robbery; vation platforms that allow visitors to see new views of the densest Robbers’ Roost is a major hideout along the concentration of Jurassic-aged dinosaur bones in the world. Outlaw Trail. Historic Helper City was once the railroad hub of Utah. Now it 10. Golf Castle Country: Millsite Course near is an artist’s colony. Historic Main Street boasts art galleries and Ferron, Green River State Park Course, and the Carbon County Course between Helper

UTAH studios, antique malls, cafes and brew pubs. Its historic district and Price. boasts 100 buildings. The Western Mining and Railroad Museum exhibits chronicle local mining, railroad and immigration history between the late 1870s and 1950. are left only to your imagination. This expansive area includes a San Rafael Swell is an uplifted area of layered rocks and a rare outdoor museum of geology, archeology, and modern-day fantastic “playground” with mesas, cliffs, buttes, springs and slot history. For years visitors have found this priceless piece of public canyons. Most of this area is open to the public, and adventures land ideal for exploring, camping, ATV-riding, hiking, horseback Anasazi riding and more. ruins, Along with the San Rafael Swell, Nine Mile Canyon offers one Canyonlands of the world’s largest collections of ancient Native American petro- National glyphs and pictographs. Filled with more than 1,000 sites of rock- Park. art, granaries, and ruins, this canyon gives a view of the Fremont Inset: Rock and Ute Indian cultures. Large panels of rock art can be found just art, Nine Mile a few feet from the road. Many guides and outfitters in the area can Canyon. show visitors the most popular sites. Once the stomping grounds of Butch Cassidy and his Wild Bunch, T ill Green River is located at the corner of three national parks, national sites and many state parks. The Tou rism/ To m surrounding valley offers golfing, whitewater rafting, canoeing, hiking, backpacking, hunting and h Offi c e o f Uta off-roading. It is also home to the John Wesley Powell River History Museum, which tells the story of the men who explored and charted the Green and Colorado rivers. Up in Emery County, Castle Dale boasts both the Museum of the San Rafael, that reveals the secrets of the mysterious San f T ou rism/ F rank Jensen ah Offi c e o f

U t Rafael Desert, and the Emery County Pioneer Museum, where

24 UTAH • January 2009 • Canadian Traveller 48 Explore the Four Corners From Bluff! Mileage From the Center of Everything! Arches National Park 105 Miles Canyonlands National Park 75 Miles Four Corners National Monument 45 Miles Monument Valley Tribal Park 45 Miles Mesa Verde National Park 90 Miles

Come See Why Canadians Love to Visit Bluff, Utah Middle of Nowhere, Center of Everything! Bluff is a small desert town situated in San Juan County along the lush San Juan River valley. Bluff is centrally-located between six major international and regional airports. Many visitors to Bluff prefer to spend several days here as Bluff is one to two hours away from six National Parks. Mesa Verde, Four Corners, Canyonlands, Arches, and Monument Valley are just a few destinations that make Bluff an ideal place to leave your suitcase unpacked. Citizens from all over the world make Bluff their outpost for exploration! ,I\RXDUHORRNLQJIRUKRVSLWDOLW\ORRNQRIXUWKHU%OXIILVKRPHWRWKH¿QHVWPRWHOVDQGKRWHOV UHVWDXUDQWVRXW¿WWHUVDQGWUDGLQJSRVWVLQWKH:HVW2XUDULGFOLPDWHSULVWLQHDLUDQGDEXQGDQWVFHQHU\ enhance ample outdoor activities. Take a guided hiking tour of the archaeology that abounds on Cedar Mesa or Comb Ridge. Head for the trails with a llama to carry your gear. Venture into Southeast Utah’s VORWFDQ\RQVDQGJRFDQ\RQHHULQJZLWKDORFDOH[SHUW2UWDNHDQRXW¿WWHGULYHUWULSWRVHHWKHDEXQGDQW geological and archaeological gems that dot the San Juan River. So much to do, so little time… (YHQWV 11th Annual Bluff International Balloon Festival January 16th-18th, 2009 20th Annual Utah Navajo Fair and Rodeo September 11th-13th, 2009 FLQGRXWDERXWRXUÀQH 21st Annual Sand Island Bluegrass Festival EXVLQHVVHVHYHQWVKLNLQJ September 18th-20th, 2009 5th Annual Bluff Arts Festival ERDWLQJDQGPRUHRQWKH November 13th-15th, 2009 ZHE www.bluffutah.org antiques lovers and history buffs view pioneer relics and hear pioneer stories.

One of the best ways to see Castle Country is along the “Energy v el C ou n c il Loop” that winds through the T ra Manti-La Sal National Forest A rea

on State Routes 31, 264, and Mo ab 96. A rich history of industrial Running the Colorado River. development including coal- Left: Landscape Arch, Arches National Park. mining operations, coal fired power plants, historic mining crust called the Waterpocket Fold, this inviting wil- towns, mining camps, and derness offers an assortment of activities including a historic cemetery can be hiking, biking, off-roading and horseback riding.

explored along the way. Moab Area Travel Council Dixie National Forest and Fishlake National Forest both offer hiking, nature trails, and spectacular scenery. Capitol Reef Country In Goblin Valley State Park wind and water have carved fantastic Just south of Castle Country is Capitol Reef Country and Wayne County, and unique goblin-like sculptures out of rock, creating an outdoor once the hide-away for Butch Cassidy and the Wild Bunch. Capitol Reef playground that offers unlimited walking, exploring, and hiking oppor- National Park offers marvelous scenery, hiking trails, historic sites, includ- tunities. Along the way, there are fine views of the San Rafael Reef ing a deserted pioneer town, and unique geology and plant life. You can and the Henry Mountains. The park is a photographer’s paradise. also find amazing rock art from the ancient Fremont Indian culture. Near the park area, history buffs can discover rock art left by ancient Designated a national monument in 1937 and a national park Indians and ruins left by early prospectors, miners, and ranchers. in 1971, the majesty of Capitol Reef has been intriguing visitors Other local attractions include Horseshoe Canyon, with its great with its twisting canyons, massive domes, monoliths and spires of hike to ancient rock art, and the Anasazi State Park Museum, the ruins sandstone for the past century. Characterized by sandstone for- of one of the largest Ancestral Pueblo communities west of the Colorado mations, cliffs, canyons and a 160-kilometre bulge in the earth’s River, believed to have been inhabited between 1050 and 1200 A.D. UTAH

26 UTAH • January 2009 • Canadian Traveller 50 Quiet adventure...... just below the surface!

Utah’s Canyon Country! San Juan County 800-574-4386 www.utahscanyoncountry.com

Top 10 Things To Do in Capitol Reef Country Car & Driver Magazine has called Utah’s Highway 12 from Capi- tol Reef National Park to Bryce Canyon National Park “the most 1. Capitol Reef National Park: See the cliffs, scenic drive in America”, with panoramas of vast slickrock, and canyons and domes, old orchards and historic buildings. scenic canyons cut by the Escalante River as it winds through the 2. All American Hwy 12: Spectacular views Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. overlooking Capitol Reef along the edge of Boulder Mountain. Monument Valley 3. Hiking Trails: Explore trails like Grand Wash, Hickman Bridge, Halls Creek Nar- Over the years, Monument Valley has been the setting for more West- rows and Brimhall Double Arch. ern movies than any other site in the United States. Unique sandstone 4. Burr Trail: Scenic road through Capitol formations, the Navajo Indian Nation and the Four Corners Monument Reef between Lake Powell and Boulder. define this vast, open desert region. Some of the land in this region High mountain lake with good 5. Fish Lake: is part of the Navajo Nation; where you have a great opportunity to fishing, excellent campgrounds, lodges and summer home sites. learn about Native American culture and history. 6. Petroglyphs: Study the rock art along Monument Valley extends across the Navajo Indian Reservation. Hwy 24. Colourful red buttes and spires rise hundreds of feet in the air, 7. Cathedral Valley: Remote and less visited providing a quintessential landscape of the American West. Located area of the park. nearby is the small town of Goulding, established in 1923 as a trad- 8. Goblin Valley: Valley filled with rocks shaped like goblins, animals, monsters and ing post. Today amenities include stage coach dining, earth spirit phantoms. show, guided tours, Native American arts and crafts, a museum 9. Boulder Mountain & Thousand Lake and trading post, a gift shop, and a clean modern campgound. Mountain: High mountain areas west of Four Corners Monument is part of the Navajo Reservation, too, Cathedral Valley. and the only place in the United States where four states intersect 10. Torrey & Hanksville: Gateways to the national park. at one point: Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico and Utah. In the Dem- onstration Center, Navajo vendors sell handmade jewelry, crafts and traditional foods. Rainbow Bridge National Monument is one of the world’s natural wonders and also within the Navajo Reservation. The Paiute and Navajo tribes consider the bridge a sacred place and named it Nonnezoshe

UTAH which means “rainbow turned to stone.” Bluff City was established in 1880 by a group of Mormon pioneers called to colonize the San Juan River area of southeastern Utah. After an an arduous five-month winter trek, the Bluff settlers laid the town out in the same pattern as other early Mormon towns – in large square blocks. The historic district encompasses most of the original 1880 town site, cemetery hill, and the bluffs north of town. Most of the remaining historic homes were built between 1890 and 1905, and they are of the Victorian eclectic or vernacular architectural style. The cemetery is located on a prominent hill directly north of town at the base of the cliffs. Most of the graves are outlined with cobblestones; there is no landscaping. The winding drive, grave markers of significant artistic and cultural merit, and the panoramic view make this a fascinating place to visit. The Bluff Ballroom is also an interesting place to visit. A large natural alcove in the sandstone, the Ballroom has been used for dances and other social gatherings since the late 1800s. At Goosenecks State Park, off Utah Highway 261 near Mexican Hat, you can look into a 300-metre- deep chasm carved by the silt-laden San Juan River. The river meanders back and forth, flowing

Dead Horse Point State Park.

Utah Office of Tourism/Frank Jensen

28 UTAH • January 2009 • Canadian Traveller 52 Utah’s Castle Country 435-636-3701 www.castlecountry.com

MAKE TRACKS TO

Where you can see ours...

Or make your own!

UTAH’S CASTLE COUNTRY! 81 North 200 East - Price, Utah 84501 800-842-0789 or 435-636-3701 castlecountry.com [email protected] Upon arrival, visit the Castle Country Regional Information Center located in the CEU Prehistoric Museum lobby - 155 East Main Street

53 Canadian Traveller • January 2009 • UTAH 29 30 UTAH 2009• Canadian •January Traveller 54 D 435-259-5261 See the most talked about tour tour about talked most the See 800-635-6622 on the Colorado River. Colorado on the BOAT INNER and learn about the Ancestral Puebloan culture. culture. Puebloan Ancestral the about learn and residence and ceremonial in kiva, view the artifacts museum’s unique “visible storage” the toward mile Powell. linear Lake and one River only Colorado progressing while kilometres eight than more for 9. 8. 7. 6. 5. 4. 3. 2. 1. Top 10. At Edge of the Cedars State Park & Museum, you can enter an ancestral ancestral an enter can you Museum, & Park State Cedars the of Edge At UTAH CRUISE

Ancients.” theof gorgesalongforms “Trail red the magnificent and land Byway: “Moonscape-like” Ancients Scenic the of Trail one time. Monument: four in Stand Four Corners different states at villages. Hovenweep National Monument: Five well-preserved ruin Juan River:water lively San and the Meandering on Rivercurrents. running San the of overlooks scenic and ruins Juan River. Anasazi ancient of display Extraordinary Gulch: Grand Muley Park State and Point: of One entrenched the largest Goosenecks river meanders the world. in ruins. Indian Anasazi see and National Monument:Naturalof Bridges world’s the Walk under three stone bridges natural largest structures. architectural withits unique Village Pueblo Indian of Ancestral Ruins:Remains &Anasazi Art Rock Powell: at Lake World’s Bridge Rainbow stone natural largest bridge. Monument Valley Navajo Park: Buttes, Tribal canyons, mesas, formations. rock standing free and & 10

Things To Do in Monument Valley Voice Mail& Wi-ﬁ Pool &HotTub Tennis Courts Exercise Room Hiking Bikes, Rafts, Riding Horseback Catering Weddings &Reunions Conventions & Retreats Restaurant &Bar Private Patios River-front rooms New River-frontCabins For [email protected] 435-259-2002 • 866-812-2002 • 435-259-2002 www.redcliffslodge.com Mile 14 onHwy.Mile 14 128 Moab, Utah 84532 Moab, Utah F Castle Creek WINERY Wine tasting, Wine tasting, tours &sales

www.discovermoab.com -

The Moah Adventure Moah The Riding bikes and lovin’ life! Goblin ValleyGoblin StatePark. Contact Contact Allan or Patricia anytime at 1.800.940.8292 MOUNTAIN BIKE TOURS AND CLINICS AND TOURS BIKE MOUNTAIN our scenic, world class rides have something for have rides something class world our scenic, TOURS. BIKE MOUNTAIN SOLFUN Whether you’rerider, a or novice advanced Whether or send us an email at [email protected]. at email an us send or Do right! it MOAB’S PREMIER CUSTOM We’ll make happen! it Call. TellCall. us youwhat want. Going Mountain Biking? Mountain Going Ask us to be creative. be to us Ask Do it in in it Do www.solfun.com you. Book your tour with tour your Book Moab !

Utah Travel Council

Plan to stay along the way N U,     A’   

Idaho Falls 20 Julie Hollist Julie Julie Hollist Julie

Capitol Arches Reef Canyonlands Bryce Canyon Zion Grand Canyon UUttaahh –– mmoorree tthha ann jjuusstt rreedd rroocckk

Bear st Heritage Center Lake erican We Am Golden Spik e ival Opera Logan Canyon Utah Fest 199 North Main St., Logan 1-800-882-4433 www.topofutah.org