TRAILWALKER

The Friends of the SPRING 2019 Issue 153 FREE

Wading Through Canyons National Parks of Southwest USA

We Can’t Stop Here! The Heysen Trail Beyond Parachilna? PLUS • The Camino Inglés • Cleaning Gore-Tex Jackets • Botanic Thoughts on Mt Remarkable PRINT POST APPROVED 100002147 Building friendships, confidence & camaraderie among women as we explore the world together.

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0 8 2 Friends of the Heysen Trail members receive a 10% discount Published by the Friends of the Heysen Trail & Contents Other Walking Trails Magazine of the Friends of the Heysen Trail Issue 153 Spring 2019 Suite 212, Epworth Building 33 Pirie St, SA 5000 Phone (08) 8212 6299 Web heysentrail.asn.au 5 Email [email protected] 20 Facebook facebook.com/HeysenTrail President’s Report How to Care for Twitter twitter.com/HeysenTrail Melanie Sjoberg YouTube youtube.com/HeysenTrail ______Gore-Tex Pinterest pinterest.com/HeysenTrail Tracey Evans gives good 7 advice on Mid North Branch cleaning your Phone (08) 8841 3450 Black Jack Cabin Gore-Tex jacket. Email [email protected] Paul Bond demonstrates what 300 hours of voluntary labour ______MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION can achieve. Single $25 per year Family $40 per year ______21 & 22 Schools & Organisations $60 per year Membership is valid for 12 months from We Can’t Stop the date of payment 11 & 12 TRAILWALKER MAGAZINE Here! Restoring Mayo Jim McLean investigates Deadline for the next issue (Summer 2019-2020): extending the Heysen Trail from Hut Parachilna to Mount Hopeless. Friday 1 November 2019 Paul Nicholas Views expressed in contributed articles explains how ______are those of the authors, and not necessarily those of the Friends of the he supervised Heysen Trail. a team of 25 & 26 The Trailwalker magazine is unemployed and homeless men available by subscription or online at in restoring Mayo Hut in 1988. Wading Through heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker ______The Trailwalker magazine is published Canyons quarterly: Izabela Buick • Autumn (March) 13 recommends • Winter (June) the national • Spring (September) First Aid Kits parks of the • Summer (December) Judy McAdam Southwest USA. The Trailwalker magazine has a itemises ______distribution of 1500, and an estimated what should readership of approximately twice that be in your number. personalised first 27 Articles, reports and other submissions aid kit. by members and other interested The Camino Inglés parties are welcome and should be ______Kevin Liddiard emailed to the Trailwalker Editor at takes the six-day [email protected] ‘English Way’ The submission deadline is usually the first Friday of the month prior to the 15 pilgrimage from month of publication. Volunteer Profile Ferrol to Santiago Dean Mortimer is our next de Compostela. ADVERTISING RATES (Ex. GST) volunteer to be profiled for this 1/8 page vertical $55 per issue ______1/4 page $80 per issue regular feature. 1/2 page $135 per issue ______Full Page $200 per issue Flyer (supplied for insertion) 29 & 30 $240 per issue 17 Tasmania’s Mt Field A commitment for 12 months advertising (four issues) would attract 10% saving Botanical Thoughts National Park Advertising specifications and Mike Joyce describes a one-day on Mt Remarkable walk with everything from article submission guidelines are Mary Lane continues her series available upon request or by visiting remnant snow to rainforest. heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker on native plants along the Trail.

TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 3 About the Friends of the Heysen Trail Patron His Excellency the Honourable Honorary Members Hieu Van Le AC Sadie Leupold Jack Marcelis Thelma Anderson OAM Julian Monfries Council Members 2018/19 Kath Palyga Terry & Frances Gasson Melanie Sjoberg President The Friends of the Heysen Trail Richard Schmitz Simon Cameron Suzanne Matthews Vice President & Other Walking Trails Arthur Smith David Rattray OAM Julian Monfries Secretary Colin Edwards Hermann Schmidt OFFICE Stephen Salib-Brown Treasurer Hugh Greenhill Robert Alcock Suite 212, 33 Pirie Street, Robert Alcock John Newland Glen Dow Liz O’Shea Adelaide SA 5000 Greg Boundy Neil Nosworthy Barry Finn John Potter Phone (08) 8212 6299 Colin Edwards Robyn Quinn Dean Killmier Kevin Liddiard Web heysentrail.asn.au Dom Henschke John Wilson John Wilson Email [email protected] Carol Homewood David Beaton Honorary Members (Deceased) Open Monday to Friday Council Meeting Dates Terry Lavender OAM Doug Leane 10.30am – 2.30pm Wednesday 18 September 2019 Wednesday 16 October 2019 Jim Crinion Fred Brooks Neville Southgate Jamie Shephard VOLUNTEERS Wednesday 20 November 2019 Mondays Sub-Committee Chairs Trailwalker Editor Greg Martin Graham Loveday Colin Edwards Trail Development Neil Nosworthy Peter Larsson Walking Editorial Sub-Committee David Rattray OAM Office Elizabeth Rogers Robert Alcock Judy McAdam Helen Morgante Marketing & Philip Bell Liz Rogers Tuesdays Membership Robyn Coburn Julie Stapleton Valerie Boundy Julian Monfries Honorary Colin Edwards Chris Caspar Membership Tammy Main Judy McAdam Warren Bonython Chris Porter r Heysen Trail Foundation Website Edito David Rattray OAM Jeremy Carter Neville Haar Chairman Wednesdays Neil Nosworthy Secretary Membership Secretary Robin Bodycomb Vicki Cahalan Mid North Branch David Rattray OAM Gilbert Downs Garry Fieldhouse President Office Manager Jack Marcelis Kate Greenhill Vice President Dom Henschke Sally Fieldhouse Secretary Thursdays Hugh Greenhill Section 13 Leader Bookkeepers Eve Buckley Sam Nichols & Publicity Officers John Wilson Erica Gordon Garry Fieldhouse Maria Newland Julian Monfries Nimer Kaur Judy Szekeres Maintenance Section Leaders Tina Behnke Albert Schmidke Section 1 Fridays Roger Dunn 2A Cathy Bowditch John Newland 2B Erika Guess Hermann Schmidt 3&4 Julia McLachlan (Wandergruppe Bushwalkers) Suzanne Mausolf John Babister 5 Relief Staff Richard Webb 6 Graham Loveday 7 Eve Buckley Ian Harding (WEA Ramblers) 8 Colin Edwards Jerry & Michelle Foster 9 Dom Henschke Wayne Turner, Kevin Crawshaw, Graham Loveday Peter Deacon 10 Jack Marcelis COVER PHOTOS: Dom Henschke, Colin Rozman, Robyn Quinn The amazing Rick Price 11 Dom Henschke 12 Antelope Canyon Hugh Greenhill (Mid North Branch) 13 by Izabela Buick, Daniel Jardine 14 and the view from Ron Capel (ARPA), Don McDonald 15 Patawarta Hill by Julie Starkey, Gary Wright 16 Jim McLean. Michael Kerin, Neil Finlay 17A Trailwalker welcomes submissions from Simon Cameron 17B readers of photos suitable for the cover of David Henery (Alpana Station), the magazine Gavin Campbell 18

4 TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 President’s Report Heysen Trail Funding Boost from the State Government

hat good news for the Friends of the Heysen Trail and Friends Heysen Trail! Many of Parks groups around Deep Creek to Friends have expressed outline the key elements of his plans. He their enthusiasm for gave a commitment that there would be Wan announcement in the June State close collaboration with the Friends as Budget that $6m will be allocated for important stakeholders in the project. enhancements to the Heysen Trail and Members will be kept informed as Deep Creek Conservation Park over the details and timeframes are developed next three to four years. through the consultation process. We know the Heysen Trail is an It is encouraging to hear that the adventurous bushwalk recognised Minister is genuinely engaged with around the country, and among overseas promoting parks and trails. This outcome long distance walkers. Now this funding indicates he is prepared to support boost has the potential to build on that ideas from Friends’ groups and local record and attract new walkers to the communities. region and the Trail. The Friends follow in the footsteps of Representatives from the Friends have conservation activists and visionaries Melanie Sjoberg worked closely with Yankalilla Council, who have long advocated for the Deep Creek Rangers and some local preservation of natural spaces for businesses for close to three years, bushwalkers, birders, flora and fauna consulting with the local community observers, or those who may just wish and walking groups. We developed a to sit among trees. We understand that proposal to highlight the exceptional dedication to nature-based projects walking experience along that wild is not just good for the environment; south coast research increasingly shows that being section of the in nature is critical to strong physical The Best of the Yorke Heysen Trail and and mental wellbeing. Importantly, this generated ideas project affirms years of dedicated work to connect with by hundreds of Friends’ volunteers accommodation, walking, publicising and keeping the food and Trail alive. transport aiming to attract greater Our Council, committees and volunteers numbers to will work closely with other Friends’ the Fleurieu groups, the community and DEW Peninsula. The to bring this vision to fruition and, vision includes hopefully, this becomes a potential a ‘stand-out’ model for development along other key entrance at sections of the Heysen Trail. , walker-specific campsites, improved access roads and day Friends of the Heysen Trail visitor areas, and Walk the Best of the Yorke an accessible trail along 26th April – 2nd May 2020 Goondooloo “We acknowledge the Aboriginal Bus from Adelaide Ridge. people as the Traditional Owners of the beautiful land that we walk Seven days walking. Walk leader: Simon Cameron The Minister for on. We appreciate their continuous $400 pp the Environment spiritual connection to this country over Further Information and bookings & Water (DEW) thousands of years and we pay our via online Walk Calendar (heysentrail.asn.au) David Speirs respects to their Elders, past, present met with the and future.” TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 5 Friends’ News End-to-End Minus 2. It’s all downhill from here Julian Monfries alerts us that bookings open soon for only the second Friends’ Minus End-to-End, as it starts rather than ends at Parachilna Gorge in the Flinders. f you’ve walked the Heysen Trail – no rest day – based at Willow from south to north, then this Springs, just north of Wilpena. The Iis for you. A new End-to-End accommodation has been pre- Tony Brosnan took this photo last year -2 will start in 2020 and over three booked by the Friends and there with End-to-End 10 on the Hallett to EE years we will walk the whole trail. will be a lot of sharing. George Quarry section of the Trail Three walking weeks per year for Week 2 Moralana Drive to Warren three years, and it’s downhill all the way! Gorge: Saturday June 13th to Wowie! It’s Well, that’s the plan! Sunday Jun 21st; 6 days based at Hawker for 4 days and transferring To join us on this reverse traverse, on our rest day (Thursday 18th) to ‘owie’ country you must be a member of the Quorn. You will need to organise Tracey Evans noticed in Friends and have completed a your own accommodation. south-north walk with one of the the traditional lands of the End-to-End groups. Week 3 Warren Gorge to Melrose: Ngadjuri people that many Friday 24th July to Sunday place names end with ‘owie’. Numbers will be limited as August 2nd; 7 days walking, accommodation is sparse. based at Quorn until 29th July, hilst walking north of The leadership team come from then transferring to Melrose. You Burra with End-to-End End-to-End 1, 3 and 5, and Minus 1, will need to organise your own 10 in 2018, I noticed and, collectively, have walked the accommodation. W numerous towns ending with ‘owie’. Heysen Trail ten times. Bookings will open about two weeks I was intrigued to understand the The first year (2020) dates are: - after this edition of TrailWalker is significance of this suffix, so did distributed. Week 1 Parachilna Gorge to a bit of research, and learned Moralana Drive: Saturday May 16th Start planning now if you want to be that ‘owie’ is an Aboriginal word to Friday May 22nd; 5-days walking part of this downhill adventure! meaning ‘water’. Look out for these places and see Walk Leaders Training Night if the meaning of their name is th still reflected in the surrounding Tuesday 8 October countryside. Booborowie: round waterhole Caltowie: waterhole belonging to the sleepy lizard Coobowie: wildfowl on the water Canowie: stony waterhole Tarcowie: torrential waters Terowie: hidden waterhole PHOTO: Julian Monfries Willowie: green tree water Yarcowie: wide water. Discounts ave you ever thought you may like to lead walks for the Friends of to Members the Heysen Trail? Well, here’s your chance. In a low-key evening you’ll get to see what goes on – on and off the trail – as we run Discounts are available to H members at retail outlets that through the basics of being a walk leader. With the Friends membership now over 1200 people and this year’s walks booking out weeks in advance, support the Friends of the Heysen we need more leaders as we look at putting more walks on the calendar in Trail. 2020. For the full list of discounts go to: So if you’re interested we’d love to see you there. Please see the Walks https://heysentrail.asn.au/friends/ Calendar on the Friends’ website (heysentrail.asn.au) for further details. discounts-available-to-members

6 TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 BLACK JACK CABIN Paul Bond describes how 300 volunteer hours and only $5,000 can transform an unwanted cabin into a well-equipped hiking shelter near Burra.

lack Jack campsite, which had been installed next situated northeast from to the old shelter. Burra, can be most B During July, the installation inhospitable whenever the weather turns wet and windy, had been completed, as it often does during the including a trial of solar walking season. Walkers can lighting with capacity for now seek comfort in a newly recharging mobile phones. placed cabin and redeveloped It will be interesting to see site. how effective this relatively inexpensive item proves itself In October 2018, a cabin at to be. Urrbrae Wetlands became surplus to requirements Overall, Black Jack is now following the development a well-equipped site, with of new infrastructure and was the newly placed cabin, donated to the Friends of the camp platform and fire pit Heysen Trail. A contractor was complementing the old engaged to dismantle the roof shelter, rainwater tank and and take it to the Friends shed toilet. Future work will see a at Cobbler Creek. City Crane rainwater tank installed and Trucks were then contracted to plumbed to serve the sink move the shell of the cabin to inside the cabin. Cobbler Creek, with all work This was achieved through completed in November 2018. some 300 volunteer hours From January to May 2019 and the expenditure of the regular shed maintenance about $5,000 raised from crew renovated the cabin. This membership and walk fees. included window replacement, ACKNOWLEDGEMENT: The general repairs, painting inside following have contributed and out, and six bunks fitted. volunteer hours to the During that time, there was renovation and relocation much consideration given to of the cabin: Colin Edwards, where on the Trail the cabin Tai Lim, Neil Rivett, Rick should be located, taking into Price, Colin Rozman, Julian consideration accessibility by Monfries, Daniel Jardine, truck, appropriate spacing Paul Bond, Daniel, Peter and from other huts on the trail and Andrew Fosdike, and Dom visibility from public roads or Henschke. Hermann Schmidt picnic areas to mitigate risk of and Arnulf Mollenhauer vandalism. displayed great craftsmanship in constructing the bunks. It was determined that Black Jack was the site that best fitted these criteria. FROM TOP: The cabin as it In May, a small team installed looked at Cobbler Creek; concrete footings for the cabin footings installed at the Black and in late June City Crane Jack site; the cabin being Trucks transported the cabin craned onto footings at and craned it onto the footings. Black Jack; and the cabin in Over the next two days, a position with its roof maintenance crew re-erected being installed the roof and entry steps and relocated the camp platform, PHOTOS: Paul Bond End-to-End Walks This version released 27 December 2018 2019 Walk Season Programme heysentrail.asn.au

1st Weekend 2nd Weekend 3rd Weekend 4th Weekend 5th Weekend

Sat May 4 – Sun May 5 End-to-End 10 Mt Zion - Wirrabara Forest - Sat May 25 - Sun May 26 Sun May 19 Block 9 Rd Sun May 12 Sat May 4 – Sun May 5 End-to-End 11 End-to-End 13 End-to-End 12 End-to-End 11 May Wandallah - to Worlds End-Burra-Wandallah Mt Compass to Kyeema Newikie Creek - Nugget Rd Sun May 5 Dares Hill Summit Rd End-to-End 14 Cape Jervis to Cobbler Hill

Sat June 1 - Sun June 2 Sun June 30 End-to-End 10 End-to-End 12 Sun June 16 Sat June 22 - Sun June 23 Block 9 Rd - Murraytown - Sun June 9 Mt Crawford to Melrose Pewsey Vale End-to-End 13 End-to-End 12 End-to-End 11

Nugget Rd to Dares Hill Summit Rd to June Kyeema to Sun June 30 Sun June 2 Mt Crawford Hallett to Dashwood Gully EE George Quarry End-to-End 13 End-to-End 14 Dashwood Gully Cobbler Hill to Tapanappa to Mylor

Sat July 6 – Sun July 14 Sun July 21 End-to-End 9 End-to-End 12 Sat July 27 - Sun July 28 Sat July 6 – Sun July 7 Pewsey Vale to Tanunda End-to-End 10 Warren Gorge End-to-End 11 Melrose - Alligator Gorge Rd to - Horrocks Pass

July EE George Quarry Moralana Drive Sun July 21 Sun July 7 to Spalding Rd End-to-End 13 to the Chlorinator End-to-End 14 Mylor to Cleland Tapanappa to Balquhidder

Sun Aug 11 – Sun Aug 18 Sat Aug 3 - Sun Aug 4 2019 Walks Programme End-to-End 9 End-to-End 10 Moralana Drive to Parachilna Trailhead Sat Aug 24 - Sun Aug 25 Sat Aug 31 – Sun Sept 1 Horrocks Pass to Broadview End-to-End 11 End-to-End 10 to WoolshedEnd-to-End Flat Walks This version released 27 December 2018 Sun Aug 11 2019 Walk Season ProgrammeSun Aug 18 The Chlorinator heysentrail.asn.auWoolshed Flat August End-to-End 13 to Curnows Hut to Quorn Sun Aug 4 End-to-End 12 Cleland to to Raeville to Dutchmans Stern End-to-End 14 Tanunda to Kapunda Montacute Heights Balquhidder1st Weekend to Waitpinga 2nd Weekend 3rd Weekend 4th Weekend 5th Weekend

Sat Sept 21 - Sun Sept 22 Sat May 4 – Sun May 5 Sat Sept 14 - Sun Sept 15 TrailStarter & TrailWalker WalksEnd-to-End 11 End-to-End 10 End-to-End 12 This version released 19 August 2019 Mt Zion - Wirrabara Forest - Raeville Sat Sept 28 – Sun Sept 29 2019 Walk Season ProgrammeKapunda to Hamilton Sat May 25 - Sun May 26 heysentrail.asn.au SunBlock Sept 9 Rd 1 Sun May 19 to Locks Ruin Sun May 12 to Peters Hill to Bowman Park End-to-End 10 Sat May 4 – Sun May 5 End-to-End 11 End-to-End 14 End-to-EndSun Sept 8 13 End-to-End 12 End-to-End 11 May 1st Weekend 2nd Wee kend 3rd Weekend 4thWandallah Week end- 5thDutchmans Wee kSternend Worlds End-Burra-Wandallah CudleeSun Sept Creek 15 to Sun Sept 22 Waitpinga to Tugwell Rd Mt Compass to Kyeema Newikie Creek - to Eyre Depot End-to-EndNugget Rd 13 End-to-End 14

September Sun May 5 Dares Hill Summit Rd to Buckaringa Sun June 2 Sun June 9 MontacuteSun June Heights 16 SatTugwell June Rd22 Sun June 30 End-to-EndTrailStarter 14 TrailStarter toT CudleerailStar Creekter toT InmanrailWal Valleyker TrailStarter CapeSherphe Jervis to rCobblerds Hill Hill Ambers Gully Athelstone Willunga Basin Mack Creek Helen Morgante Trail Kevin Liddiard Sat OctKe vin19 -Liddia Sun Octrd 20 Jardine/Sjoberg Mary Cartland Sun Oct 13 Sun June 30 Sat June 1 - Sun June 2 End-to-End 11 Sun June 2 End-to-End 13 Sun June 23 June End-to-End 10 Sun June 9 BowmanSun June Park 16 End-to-EndSun June 30 12 TrailWalker Cudlee Creek Sun June 16 Sat June 22 - Sun June 23 Block 9 Rd - Murraytown - SunTrail WJunealker 9 to MtT rZionailW (Millsalker Rd) TrailWalker MtT rCrawfordailwalker to Black Hill to Nugget Rd Melrose Mt Crawford Kersbrook Ashbourne MountPewsey Misery Vale Michael Joyce End-to-Endto Wirabarra 12 End-to-End 11 Sun Oct 6 End-to-EndJon Holbrook 13 Judith Ellis DeanSun MortimerOct 27 Peter Clark

Sat OctNugget 19 - Sun Rd to Oct 20 Dares Hill Summit Rd to June Sun Oct 13 Sun June 30 Kyeema to End-to-End 12 Hallett to October SunSun June July 72 Sun July 14 SunMt Crawford July 21 Sat July 27 End-to-EndDashwood Gully 14 Peters Hill EE George Quarry End-to-End 13 End-to-EndTrailStarter 14 InmanTrailS tValleyarter Trailstarter TrailWalker Ansteys Hill to Gerkie Gap Dashwood Gully Cobbler Hill to Tapanappa to Myponga Kaiser Stuhl CP Willunga Basin Trail to Webb Gap to Mylor y Judith Ellis Kevin Liddiard Dom Henschke Jardine/Sjoberg Sun July 28 Sun July 28 Ju l Sun JulSaty 7 July 6 – Sun JulySun 14 July 14 Sun JuJulyly 2121 Walk Grades End-to-End 9 Walk Registration WalkTrailS Cancellationstarter TrailWalker Further Information TrailWalkYouer can joinTrail anyWalker walk on End-to-EndthisTrailW alEnd-to-Endker 12 Ladys Choi programme.ce Kyeema/ There are fiveMon differenttacu tgradese When it isT ungkilnot walk lseason,o Loop RegisterSea for a twalko Summit either online or End-to-End walks are not subject Details about each walk, the hot Pewsey Vale SatK T urnerJuly 27 & - SunKuitpo July 28 of walkSat on JulyP theeSimplyt erFriends6 –Dea Sun ofcon theJuly select7 generallyAdam/Suzanne duringa hike the summer Matth you Fireews wouldover the phone.Alan like Davis to jointo a weatherand forecast register temperature online.weather policy, what to wear and Heysen Trail walk programme. Ban Season, a fifth walk grade, to Tanunda limit, J howeverWenzel the walkJ Holbleaderr ook what to bring, walk grades or to print End-to-End 10 Warren Gorge Register online at End-to-End 11 FourMelrose of these - Alligatoroperate during Gorge the Rd Summer Twilight Walks, operate. heysentrail.asn.au, or by phoning may decide to cancel or amend off a colour copy of the programme, walk season, generally from April to the event if weather is deemed to visit heysentrail.asn.auSat Aug 31 -Sun Horrocks Augu Passst 4 Details ofSun each Augu walk gradest 11 are the officeSun on 8212 Augu 6299.st 18 Wed Sun August 25 July to NovemberTr whenailSt itar ist noter Fire provided on the website: presentEE a high George risk.TrailS Quarrytarter Cape Jervis to Ban Season: MoralanaTrailSt Drivearter Walks closeSunT betweenrailS Julytar Tuesday t21er and Aug

t heysentrail.asn.au/walks If unforseento circumstancesSpalding Rd arise November Onkaparinga Brownhill Ck/Belair Kuitpo Anstey Hill Cobbler Hill Sun JulyTrailStarter 7 & TrailWalkerFriday priorEnd-to-End to the walk, closing 13 Walks 21 • Trail StarterRobyn Quinn Valerie Boundy dates Rosemaryand times are Haywalisted on reachd and youto are the no longerChlorinatorJulie able T etos ti This version released 15 February 2019 • Trail WalkerEnd-to-End 14 participate in the walk, please A & S Matthews walk eventMylor page toon Clelandthe website. Black • Trail Rambler 2019 Walk Season Programme notify the office as soon as heysentrail.asn.au Tapanappa to Balquhidder Hill • End-to-EndSat August 4 Sun August 11 Sun August 18 possible, or leaveSun a message Augus ont 25 the Augu s TrailWalker TrailWalker TrailWalker answeringPeter machineTr afterailW thisalk time.er Sturt Gorge SandersonSun Tr ailAug 11 – Sun Aug 18 Sat Aug 3 - Sun Aug 4 Sleeps Hill Viaduct Larsson Morialta 1st PhilipWeekend Bell 2ndAdam Weekend MatthewsEnd-to-End3rd 9 Alan Weekend Davis 4th WeekendAdam Matthews 5th Weekend End-to-End 10 Moralana Drive to Parachilna Trailhead Sat Aug 24 - Sun Aug 25 Sat Aug 31 – Sun Sept 1 e2e_2019_v1.indd 1 Horrocks Pass 27-Dec-18 2:39:58 PM toSun Broadview Sept 1 Sun Sept 8 Sun Sept 15 Wed Sun Sept 22 Sun Sept 29 Trailwalker TrailStarter TrailStarter End-to-EndSat April 27 11 End-to-End 10 to Woolshed Flat Sunday April 14 Sept TTrailWalkerrailStarter TrailStarter Mount George Kersbrook Anderson Loop 18 Sturt Gorge Jenkins Scrub/Mt Crawford Sun Aug 11 Willunga Basin Trail Greg Boundy KSpecialevin Liddia Eventrd KevinApril LiddiardSun 20 Aug - April 18 21 The Philip Chlorinator Bell MaryWoolshed Cartland Flat August Jardine/Sjoberg Sun Aug 4 End-to-End 13 Mt to Curnows Hut to Quorn ember End-to-End 12 Cleland to Lofty to Raeville to Dutchmans Stern End-to-EndSun Sept 1 14 OpeningSun Sept of the8 SunTanunda SeptEASTER 15 to Kapunda Sun Sept 22 Sun Sept 29 Montacute Heights April BalquhidderTrailW toal Waitpingaker WalkTrail WSeasonalker TrailWalker SunTrail AprilWalk er28 TrailWalker no walks Peter TrailStarter

Sep t Deep Creek Morialta Deep Creek TBA Larsson Onkaparinga Adam Matthews Peter Larsson Peter Larsson MysteryPeter Clark Walk Jon Holbrook Sat Sept 21 - Sun Sept 22 Sat Sept 14 - Sun Sept 15 Julie Testi End-to-End 11 End-to-End 12 Sat Oct 5 Wed Sun Oct 20 SatRaeville Oct 26 Sat Sept 28 – Sun Sept 29 Kapunda to Hamilton TrailWalker TSunSunrail WSeptMayalk er 51 Sun May 12 Oct Sun MayTrailS 19tar ter toSat Locks May Ruin 25 Willunga Basin Trail Sunday Oct 13 to PetersOnkaparinga Hill Willunga Basin Trail TrailStarter TrailStarter 16 TrailStarter to TrailWalkerBowman Park End-to-End 10 Jardine/Sjoberg Piccadilly MichaelTBA Middelton Jardine/Sjoberg End-to-EndMylor 14 SpecialSun Sept Event 8 Sturt Willunga Basin Trail ober Rosemary Hayward Paul Gill GorgeSun TBASept 15 Jardine/SjobergSun Sept 22 Dutchmans Stern Sun Oct 6 Walking SA Sun Oct 20 Sun Oct 27 Sun Oct 27 WaitpingaTrailS tot arTugwellter Rd End-to-End 13 End-to-End 14 to Eyre Depot Oc t John TrailWalker TSunrailRambler May 26 TSunrail WMayalk 26er May September to Buckaringa Sir MarkSat OliphantMay 5 CP WalktoberSun May 12 MontacuteSunHo Mayr snellHeights 19 Gul ly TrailStarterOrchidsTugwell RdCleland TrailWalker Babister TrailWalker JohnTrailWalker Babister toTrailWalker CudleePeter Creek Larsson Mt Philip Pleasantto Bell Inman CarrickValleyPaul Gill Hill Para Wirra Summertown TBA Mary Paul Saxby Judith Ellis TBA Caroline Sun Sept 25 Sat Oct 19 - Sun Oct 20 CartlandSun Oct Prescott7 Sun Oct 14 WalksW alkGrade. GSunrades Sept 24 Sun Oct 13 Walk Regisclosetration between WTuesdayalk Can andcellations Friday priorF tourther the walk. Information Closing TrailStarter End-to-End 11 TrailStarter TrailWalker TheT rFailSriendstar oft theer H- eStysenreet Trail Art When it isEnd-to-End not walk season, 13 Register for a walk either online or TrailStarter and TrailWalker walks The walks shown above are correct at Sun June 2 MarysSun June Gul l9y BowmanSun datesJune Park 16 and time are listed JenkinsSat Juneon Scrubeach 22 event page onSunMt the June Lofty website. 30 Therewalk are p rfiveogCBDramme -different Vicki offers Cfiveo x gradesgene of ralwalksly duringCudlee on the Creekthe summer Friends Fire ovofer the the phone. will be cancelled in the forecast the published date. Changes do occur TrailStarter ArrienneTrailStarter Wynen to MtTrailStarter Zion (Mills Rd) MaryTrailWalker Cartland WTrailStarteralking SA Heysendiff eTrailrent g rwalkades of programme.walks. 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June James Wenzel End-to-End Sun June 914 Sun June 16 notify the ofSunfice asJune soon 23as visit heysentrail.asn.au/walks • TrailStarter • TrailWalker Neil Rivett walk, or earlierPeters if the Hill walk capacity Sun June 30 • T rail RambTrailWalkerler InmanTrailWalker Valley TrailWalkerIf unforseen circumstancespossible, orTrailWalker leave aarise message and on theyou are no longer able • End-to-End is reached.to Gerkie Gap Trailwalker • Trail Rambler Black Hill • End-to-EndMtto CrawfordMyponga Kersbrookto participate inans thewering3 Parkswalk, machine pleasePanorama after this notify time. the officeMount as Miserysoon as Michael Joyce to Webb Gap Details of each walk grade are providedJon onHolbrook the website Judithpossible, Ellis or leave a messageDean Mortimer on the answering Petermachine. Clark heysentrail.asn.au/walks Walk GradesSun July 7 Sun July 14 Walk RegistrationSunFurther July 21 Information.Walk CancellationsSat July 27 Further Information WalksThere Registration. are fiveTrailStarter different grades When it is notTrailStarter walk season, Register forTrailstarter a walk either online or End-to-EndTrailWalker walks are not subject Details about each walk, the hot of walk onKuitpo the Friends Forest of the generally duringAnsteys the summer Hill Fire over the phone. to a weather forecast temperature weather policy, what to wear and Heysen Trail walk programme. Ban Season, a fifth walk grade, KaiserDetails Stuhl CP about eachlimit,Willunga however walk, thethe Basin walk hot leader Trail weather what policy, to bring, what walk grades to wear or to print Judith Ellis Kevin Liddiard RegisterDom online Henschkeat Jardine/Sjoberg RegisterFour offor these a walk operate either during the online Summer or over Twilight the Walks, phone; operate. onlineheysentrail.asn.au, at and or bywhat phoning to bring,may decide walk to gradescancel or amend or to printoff aoff colour a colour copy of the copy programme, of walk season, generally from April Details of each walk grade are the office on 8212 6299. the event if weather is deemed to visit heysentrail.asn.au heysentrail.asn.auto November when itor is notphone Fire the office on 8212 6299. Walks the programme,presentSun visit July a heysentrail.asn.auhigh 28 risk. Sun July 28 July Sun July 7 provided onSun the website: July 14 Walks closeSun between July Tuesday 21 and Ban Season: heysentrail.asn.au/walks If unforseen circumstances arise November TrailStarter TrailWalker TrailWalker Friday priorTrailWalker to the walk, closing • Trail Starter TrailWalker andLadys you are Choice no longer Kyeema/able to 8 TRAILWALKERMontacute SPRINGTungkillo 2019 Loop dates andSea times to are Summit listed on each • Trail Walker walk event page on the website. participate K Turner in the & walk, pleaseKuitpo • Trail RamblerPeter Deacon Adam/Suzanne Matthews Alan Davis notify the office as soon as • End-to-End possible, J Wenzel or leave a messageJ Holbrook on the answering machine after this time. Sun August 4 Sun August 11 Sun August 18 Sun August 25 TrailStarter TrailStarter TrailStarter TrailStarter Onkaparinga Brownhill Ck/Belair Kuitpo Onkaparinga e2e_2019_v1.indd 1 Robyn Quinn Valerie Boundy Rosemary Hayward Philip Bell 27-Dec-18 2:39:58 PM

Sun August 4 Sun August 11 Sun August 18 Sun August 25

August TrailWalker TrailWalker TrailWalker TrailWalker TBA Sanderson Trail Sleeps Hill Viaduct Waitpinga Clifftops Julie Testi Adam Matthews Alan Davis Caroline Prescott

Sun Sept 1 Sun Sept 8 Sun Sept 15 Sun Sept 22 Sun Sept 29 Trailwalker TrailStarter TrailStarter TrailStarter TrailStarter Hale CP Kersbrook Wittunga Gardens Sturt Gorge Jenkins Scrub/Mt Crawford Robyn Quinn Kevin Liddiard Helen Morgante Philip Bell Mary Cartland

Sun Sept 1 Sun Sept 8 Sun Sept 15 Sun Sept 22 Sun Sept 29 TrailWalker TrailWalker TrailWalker TrailWalker TrailWalker Cleland September Deep Creek Kersbrook/Mt Crawford TBA Onkaparinga Adam Matthews John Babister Caroline Prescott TBA Jon Holbrook

Sat Oct 5 Sat Oct 26 TrailWalker TrailWalker Willunga Basin Trail Sunday Oct 13 Willunga Basin Trail Jardine/Sjoberg Jardine/Sjoberg Special Event Sun Oct 6 Walktober Sun Oct 20 TrailStarter October TrailWalker Sir Mark Oliphant CP Horsnell Gully John Babister Simon Cameron

Sun Sept 25 Sun Oct 7 Sun Oct 14 Walk GradesSun Sept 24 Walk Registration Walk Cancellations Further Information Street Art TrailStarter TrailStarter TrailWalker ThereTrailStarter are five different - grades When it is Marysnot walk season,Gully Register for a walk either online or TrailStarter Jenkins and TrailWalker Scrub walks Details aboutMt each Lofty walk, the hot of walk onCBD the Friends- of the generally during the summer Fire over the phone. will be cancelled in the forecast weather policy, what to wear and Vicki Cox Arrienne Wynen Mary Cartland Walking SA Heysen Trail walk programme. Ban Season, a fifth walk grade, Register online at temperature for Adelaide is equal what to bring, walk grades or to print Four of these operate during the Summer Twilight Walks, operate. heysentrail.asn.au, or by phoning or higher than 32ºC. off a colour copy of the programme, walk season, generally from April Details of eachSun walk Sept grade 25 are the office on 8212 6299. If unforseen circumstances arise visit heysentrail.asn.au to NovemberSun when Sept it is 24not Fire provided onTrailWalker the website: Walks close between Tuesday and and you are no longer able to BanTrailWalker Season: - Black Hill - heysentrail.asn.au/walks participate in the walk, please November Chambers Gully James Wenzel Friday prior to the walk, closing • Trail Starter Neil Rivett dates and times are listed on each notify the office as soon as • Trail Walker walk event page on the website. possible, or leave a message on the • Trail Rambler answering machine after this time. • End-to-End Friends’ News Help us monitor water on the Trail eysen walkers, especially list on the Friends’ website. By If you see maintenance work that through-walkers, are conducting a ‘Water tank’ and needs attention, you also can report Hreminded that in some ‘Water only location’ search on that that to our Trail Development team. locations on the Trail the supply page, you will find the water points Post a comment and we will get the and quality of water can’t be along your intended route. problem assessed and fixed as soon guaranteed. as possible. Read any comments that have been While we endeavour to have up- made by other walkers about the to-date information on water levels tanks and campsites. You will find Expressions of Interest in all our tanks, due to the remote them at the bottom of each page location of some, this isn’t always of the campsite and tank location he Friends of the Heysen Trail possible. description. As the Trail heads into are exploring the prospects the more remote and arid areas in of organising a week’s walk the north, the water supply is less T Be prepared in 2020 from Cape Jervis to Victor Plan for your walk by checking the reliable. Read what other walkers Harbor. This has arisen from walkers location of tanks along the Trail. have posted recently and, as a back living in the Mid North and other up, carry enough water to last into regional areas of SA who find it There are approximately 70 publicly the next day if you’re unsure. unappealing to drive to the South accessible water tanks and supply Coast to join an End-to-End group points along the Trail, not including You can help other walkers and our office volunteers keep a track of for one Sunday’s walk. If you’re additional sources in the towns the interested in joining such a group Trail passes. Generally, you will pass water supplies by sending us reports on the condition of tanks, campsites next year please phone (8212 6299) at least one water point a day. heysentrail@heysentrail. and the Trail. Tell us about tank or email ( asn.au You can find a list of these water water levels and their quality in the ) the Friends’ office with your sources in the Accommodation ‘Leave a Reply’ section. expression of interest. End-to-End Keeping track of End-to-End groups Awards Congratulations E2E9 who have N ongratulations to the following reached Parachilna RANGES walkers who recently completed Parachilna Gorge C and completed their Blinman Parachilna the Heysen Trail and have received six-year odyssey.

End to End awards: Les Tucker E2E10 are at Dutch- Martin Davey mans Stern and will FLINDERS Hawker Cheryl Greaves reach Buckaringa by Mt.Arden Don Galvin Heysen Trail the end of the year. Port Quorn Paul Adamson Augusta 1,200km Mt.Brown Don Andrews Wilmington adventure hike Robert Browne E2E11 are heading Iron Knob Melrose from Bowman Park Peter Cram Wirrabara Peterborough Whyalla David George to Wirrabara. Jamestown SOUTH Port Pirie Mt.Bryan Carl Greenstreet Hallett Crystal Eleanor Garnett Spencer Brook Spalding AUSTRALIA E2E12 are walking Burra Walkers who completed the Trail Gulf from Peters Hill Clare Wallaroo with the End-to-End 9 group led Kadina to Webb Gap via Morgan Moonta Port by Peter Clark will be included Gerkie Gap. Wakefield

in the Summer 2019-20 issue of Maitland Kapunda RANGES Mallala Blanchetown Nurioopta Trailwalker Tanunda Angaston . Swan Reach E2E13 are on their Gulf Gawler way from Cudlee If you’ve completed the Trail St LOFTY Mannum Creek to Nugget ADELAIDE Mt. Lofty and haven’t applied for your Hahndorf Vincent Mylor Murray Bridge complimentary certificate and cloth Road. Mt Barker Aldinga Beach MOUNT Mt. Magnificent badge, please contact the Office. Mount Compass Cape Yankalilla

E2E14 are through Jervis Goolwa You can also complete an online Inman Valley and Kingscote Victor Harbor Parndana Penneshaw application form. You will find a link about to reach to the form on the Friends’ website Myponga. Southern Ocean https://heysentrail.asn.au/ Bo a TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 9 Books on Walking

‘Today, you can live a life in a car How Walking Makes Us and behind a screen, and never see Healthier, Happier and Brainier the people who live around you. It’s dangerous. If politicians walked In Praise of Walking by Shane O’Mara instead of arriving in their nice cars Bodley Head (2019) 224pp $35.00 or flying in by helicopter, perhaps they’d make decisions that are more alking In Praise of Walking encourages its relevant to the people.’ Kagge also upright readers to exchange their gym gear points out that most revolutions on two for a pair of walking boots and get begin with walking – and that sitting W down makes us easier to control. feet is a uniquely walking. human skill. In Walking for Kagge is a natural Praise of Walking, accompaniment to creativity: the neuroscientist Walking: One of the Most occasion for the unspoken dialogue Shane O’Mara explains how Radical Things We Can Do of thinking. Walking is among the walking is good for our muscles most radical things we can do. and posture, helps to protect and Walking: One Step repair organs, and can slow or turn at a Time by Erling back the ageing of our brains. While Kagge, Pantheon moving we think more creatively, (2019) 192pp HEYSEN our mood improves and stress levels $25.00 fall. The book is a cautionary tale as we allow our lives to become more HIGHLIGHTS sedentary. ‘There are all sorts of rhythms happening in the brain as a f there is an authority on the topic Simon Cameron’s personal result of engaging in [walking] and of walking it has to be Erling perspective, gathered over Kagge, a Norwegian explorer they’re absent when you’re sitting,’ I nearly 20 years of walking O’Mara writes. who was the first person to walk alone to the South Pole, as well the Heysen Trail. The author urges us to start walking as walking the North Pole and again, whether it’s up a mountain, summiting Mount Everest. His book The perfect down to the park, or simply to is a beautiful and wise meditation companion school and work. He cites a 2018 on the joys of walking. While for walking study that tracked participants’ Kagge would agree with O’Mara the Heysen activity levels and personality traits that walking boosts the brain, he over 20 years, and found that those is more interested in showing us Trail who moved the least scored lower how walking slows us down and in the positive traits: openness, encourages us to see more of $39.95 plus postage extraversion and agreeableness. our world. He writes that seeing Order on the ‘There is substantial data showing a place on foot is the best way to Friends’ website that walkers have lower rates of get up close, not only to the trees heysentrail.asn.au/shop depression.’ and buildings, but to the people.

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10 TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 Restoring Mayo Hut and the Lives of Seven Homeless Men

Paul Nicholas on how he supervised a team of seven unemployed and homeless men in restoring Mayo Hut in the Flinders Ranges as a special Bicentennial project in 1988.

he ancient Biblical prophet and the walls came tumbling down. It was Easter 1988 and Eric and Isaiah once said that if you William Mayo had used only a very I with our wives and teenage share your food with the weak mud mortar with little lime to daughters pitched our tents on hungry and provide the poor build his hut in 1899. the McInnis property where Peter, Twanderer with shelter your people Marion and their family hosted us will be called ‘Repairer of broken for a few days camping. Peter’s walls’ and ‘Restorer of streets to teenage sons were more than dwell in’. (Isaiah 58) excited to show us around. If you are hiking on the Heysen As we explored the vast property we Trail with 15 college students, its came across this ruin called Mayo raining and darkness is closing in Hut. Its walls were only half of their fast, there is nothing better than original size and the rocks from the to come across Mayo Hut with walls lay waiting on the pioneer the fire burning in this cosy rebuilt cottage floor. Thorn bushes grew in (Top from left) Pauline Nicholas, Eric ruin. That’s exactly what happened the ruins. The stamp of despair and Felgate with Leon, Maurice & Chris, in the hut in 1988 when we were heartbreak filled the air. and (above) Chris amid the ruins of putting the finishing touches to the Mayo Hut in 1988 This was a hard and hostile land first overnight shelter built on the on which to make a living. William Heysen Trail. “Thorn bushes Mayo cut sleepers from the river They may have been ‘rich college grew in the ruins. gums along the creek and towed kids from the city’ but that night them to the railway line with a they were ‘poor wanderers’ in The stamp of despair and bullock team. The demand for desperate need of shelter and a sleepers dried up and, after several place to dry out their clothes. We all heartbreak filled the air.” crippling droughts in 1913 and found space that night on the bunks, 1914, the family could no longer At the time I was camping with on the mezzanine floor and by the sustain themselves. my boss Eric Felgate and his fire to lay out our sleeping bags and family on Wonoka Station near But as I stood among the rocks of get some sleep. Hawker. We both worked for the the ruin I began to get a rush of But when we first discovered Mayo Adelaide Central Mission and I was excitement. I could see these walls Hut, on the banks of Wonoka Creek, responsible for running a day shelter easily rebuilt and restored. it was in ruin. After the Mayo family for the homeless in Adelaide where All the rocks were still there. abandoned the property in 1914, we saw 180 people every day. They Because the hut was so isolated someone had taken the iron from came there to have a shower, do nobody came to claim them for the roof and the walls were exposed their laundry and get a cuppa from landscaping, etc. And the rocks, to the weather. In 1955 there was a friendly welcoming staff in a safe huge flood that rose over the ruin place. Continued next page ... TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 11 Restoring Mayo Hut (cont.) PHOTOS: Paul Nicholas

beautiful rectangular shapes with flat For the men involved faces, were perfect for building. (See this was an experience the photo right of the underground of a lifetime. They cellar.) were trusted to work again; given their I had previously built a two-story dignity back; and stone home at Sevenhill, in the learnt new skills to kick (now home to Jeanneret start them for future Wines), so I had the skills to rebuild employment the ruin and loved doing that type of work. Little did we know we were starting Then we noticed a red and white something new for Heysen Trail marker nearby and bushwalkers on the it struck me. We could get a Heysen Trail. government grant to rebuild this ruin so that it could be a After Mayo Hut was bushwalker’s shelter on the Heysen completed, Terry Trail, similar to other walking trails Lavender for the worldwide. Department found several more ruins We could take homeless men from for us to rebuild as the city to the Flinders and teach bushwalkers’ huts. The ruined underground cellar, and them building skills as we restored We built huts at Georgetown, Paul and Pauline Nicholas on their the hut. Wlliamstown, Jamestown, Riverton, return to Mayo Hut earlier this year. My boss Eric Felgate caught the Marshall’s Hut near Peters Hill and vision immediately and we returned many other projects including a to the city where Eric began work bridge in the and a Reporting on on seeking the necessary funds. stone walkway under the railway line By August that same year we had near the Bridgewater Mill. the condition of the funding of $7,000 from the After my work was completed with the Heysen Trail Department of Sport & Recreation. the Adelaide Central Mission I went The Friends of the Heysen Trail So we chose a team and went to on to make a miniature village at work on Wonoka Station. is a volunteer organisation Victor Harbor and a miniature stone dedicated to the promotion and model of Mayo Hut that is now in All the workers were paid award maintenance of the Heysen Trail. the post office at Hawker. wages and many other homeless As such we depend on walkers men were pleading to get a job on for information and comment on the project. the condition of the Trail, and Taking river sand from the nearby any safety concerns. creek and mixing it with real cement and lime, we slowly but Please email reports on trail surely rebuilt the old ruins while we Paul Nicholas and Eric Felgate will conditions to heysentrail@ camped in tents and trapped rabbits be guest speakers at the Friends’ heysentrail.asn.au or phone the for our evening tucker. AGM in March 2020. Friends’ office on8212 6299.

aralee Accommodation in the T Wirrabara Forest, rchards Southern Flinders Ranges O Close to the Heysen Trail and the Mawson Trail Self contained accommodation for up to 8 people Phone: 0428 827 774 Email: [email protected] Web: www.taralee.com.au

12 TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 Be Prepared with the Appropriate First Aid Kit Judy McAdam provides advice on being prepared for any emergency on the Trail by carrying a personalised first aid kit. Be Prepared hen we set out on a hiking adventure – be or knots used to fashion slings it for a few hours, a to immobilise upper limbs; and W women’s sanitary products to day or a week – accidents are not really on our minds, but it is stem bleeding. The scope is only something we should think about. as wide as your imagination. Robert Baden-Powell, the Dealing with an emergency founder of the Scout movement, kay, now we have a first had a motto ‘Be Prepared’. The aid kit in our pack, but meaning of the motto is that a do we know how to deal scout must prepare him or herself O with an accident or emergency? by thinking and practising how to Having a first aid kit and not act in any accident or emergency knowing how to use it isn’t so that they are never taken by much use. It is rather risky to surprise. As hikers we are well rely on there being somebody advised to take this approach to it your group with a medical our safety and wellbeing when- • Tweezers background. ever we venture out on the Trail. • Safety pins • Triangular bandage So having current first aid training is The first step is to plan well to • Wide compression bandage and the third step in being prepared. reduce the risk of accidents. But no clips (can be used for snake bite) matter how well we plan, accidents There are many first aid training • Saline solution providers around offering training do happen and how we deal with • Sterile needle them could make a difference. courses. To do a course usually • Sterile gloves only takes a couple of hours of pre- • Paracetamol or Panadol – for course online preparation and a day, First Aid Kits inflammation/pain relief he second step in being every three years, to keep it up to • Face shield for resuscitation date. Costs vary so shop around. prepared is everyone should • Thermal blanket (space blanket) carry their own first aid kit. Many providers offer after hours or T • Note pad and pencil. weekend courses for those working Don’t turn to the walk leader or Other items that your kit could full time. your mates when there’s an issue. include: The Friends use Equip First Aid kits • Hand sanitizer Another important factor in dealing which are recommended, although • Bite gel such as Stingose® with an emergency is don’t put more expensive. At the very least a • Electrolyte replacement powders yourself in danger just to help a walker should be able to cope with or gels fellow hiker. Anybody who has done personal medical conditions, plus • Matches or cigarette lighter a first aid course will know that strains, sprains and blisters, cuts and • Butterfly closure strips. checking for danger is the first thing bites, including snake bite. On longer trips include: you do before rendering assistance So what do you need to meet these • Treatments for diarrhoea and in an emergency. So stand back, challenges? The following is not by constipation take a deep breath and assess the any means prescriptive, simply a • Cold tablets. situation before rushing in. guide. Remember you need to keep Make sure you have a charged • Personal medications, e.g. checking your first aid kit to make mobile phone and have the EpiPen, asthma medications, sure products have not expired, and Emergency+ app. It is a free app diabetes management kit, heart tapes and Band-Aids still stick. developed by Australia’s emergency medication, etc. services and their government and • Blister kit Learn to improvise industry partners. The app uses GPS • Band-Aids of varying sizes n an emergency we probably functionality built into smart phones • Non-stick wound dressings won’t have everything we need, to help a 000 caller provide critical • Adhesive tape so what can we use to improvise? location details. If you are walking in I more remote areas, a Sat phone or • Scissors Hiking poles can be used as splints; • Antiseptic or Alcohol wipes for scarves as a substitute for triangular PLB (Personal Location Beacon) cleaning wounds bandages; clothing, safety pins is recommended. TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 13 Welcome New Members he President and the Council would like to extend a warm welcome to the following 74 members who have joined the Friends since the last edition of Trailwalker, and urge them to become involved in the voluntary, Twalking and social aspects of the organisation. Carol Baker Rudy Farrugia Carolyn Kollosche Ronnie Parle Paul Baker Amy Finedon Pat Kubiak Ellen Paull Anne Barnet Kate Fleming Mervyn Leaker Blair Pellegrino Bev Boag Marie Freeman Vivien Leaker Sarah Penny Rose Boucaut Wendy Gower John Liddle Carolyn Pickering Robert Browne Vicki Green Valerie Liddle Genny Richards Lillian Camphausen Baden Greer David Lovering Lindsay Roesler Celeste Chamberlain Patricia Griffith-Williams Hayley MacKay Michael Douglas Saunders Rita Clayton Kathy Harbison Julia Manning Judith Scott Veronica Clayton Wendy Heath Hannah March Christopher Smerdon Karen Davies Michelle Henery Jane Materne Jane Smerdon Ben Dawson Glenys Hunt Helen McCann Lynn Steele Mareeta Dolling Tamara Illman Peter McLeod Nyoman Nadia Suartika Divya Desilva Marcia Jackson Kay Millard Christina Tassell Margaret Eichlrt Yves Charles Jacquier Wayne Miller Steven Taylor Mick Ellis Sue Jarvis Lou Morris Bronwyn Tonkin Victoria Ellis Karen Johnston Wayne Morris Annabel Walker Michelle Etheridge Adrian Jones Katrina Pape Pamela Wood Donald Farrow Julie Jones

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How long have you been The third deer scrambled involved with the Friends? ahead of us, repeatedly I joined in April 2007. and unsuccessfully charging the fence for about 50 Why did you initially get metres. I thought this really involved with the Friends? was going to end badly. On I wanted to improve my the sixth attempt the deer fitness in preparation scrambled under the fence for a walking holiday and immediately started a on the west coast of cartoon-like, four-footed the USA in July 2007. I skip across the fire trail with started with a TrailStarter its little tail twirling like a and immediately helicopter blade as if to say sought something more ‘HaHa, you can’t catch me challenging: Richard now!’ before heading into Milosh’s Mt Misery the forest. TrailWalker! In June, What’s your favourite when nothing on the walk Michael Middleton decided to help town/location along the Heysen calendar appealed to me, a member the ladies with their crossing by and why? of the office staff suggested I join in dropping a large ‘stepping-stone’ with End-to-End 3 who were walking in the stream splashing David The town would be Quorn. A very Kyeema to Dashwood Gully Road with a heavy spray of water. This nice, eco-friendly caravan park; the the coming weekend. I did and I got earned the Morris Minus award for Pichi-Richi Railway; ‘Mrs Brown’ hooked. ‘meritorious, notorious or hilarious at the Austral Hotel; Emily’s Bistro and the Quandong Café; and What are some activities in which conduct’ at the following day’s walk briefing. The original event the Weinel-fest. Not to mention you’ve volunteered with the Mount Brown, Devils Peak and the Friends? was funny enough in itself, but the incident was recreated next morning Dutchmans Stern. Location would Walk leader with E2E3, E2E4, for those who had missed it. David be the old homestead ruins at now E2E13 and soon with E2E-2; set up his chair and I passed Michael Aroona. How amazing would it be and Walk Coordinator for E2E-1. a rock from the side of the road. to live on that spit of land with its I have assisted the Greening Michael then dropped the rock own spring and waking up each Committee with tree planting on near David’s feet. Out of the crowd morning with that view down the occasions. I was a member of the steps Michael Brennan (THE Father Aroona Valley – magic! Trail Development Committee Michael Brennan) with his water for a short time and continue bottle and promptly ‘anoints’ David. to participate in some of their A New Trailwalker ROTGL* - my jaws are still aching! scheduled trail maintenance. Also Editor Needed End-to-End Coordinator on the Walk Is there something you’d never be Committee. (Now that I’ve written it without when you’re walking? e still are seeking someone to fill the down, I think I am trying to do too I wouldn’t be without my Mum. Oh voluntary position of much.) no, I mean a water bottle. W Trailwalker editor. The Trailwalker What’s your favourite walk on the What’s the most memorable event/ magazine is produced quarterly Heysen? day for you on the Trail? by the editor, with assistance Newikie Creek to Dares Hill Summit There are many. Short answer is from an Editorial Sub-Committee Road: it’s diversity, scenery and E2E-1. Long answer would be a tie and members of the Marketing remoteness really appeals to me. for first place: E2E-1’s Stony Creek & Membership Committee. The when all my walkers followed me editor’s role customarily has been What’s a favourite walk other than to assemble and edit editorial and on the Heysen Trail? through eight crossings of a raging, swollen Stony Creek on a horribly photos, and layout the publication The Half Dome, Yosemite National wet weekend based in Melrose. using Adobe InDesign. However, Park in California. Then the equally memorable there’s no reason why the roles of editorial and design cannot be What’s the funniest moment on the summiting of Mount Bryan in a separated and shared with two or Trail? blizzard. Third place would be surprising three deer as E2E4 more volunteers. Hands-on help is The re-enactment on the morning available from the current editor. after of the stepping-stone were walking towards The Bluff at incident at Boat Harbour Beach Wirrabara Forest. The deer charged If you are interested, please discuss with E2E-1. David Meredith had a fence but only two got through. with the current editor Greg Martin on [email protected] set up his inflatable armchair *ROTGL – Rolling On The Ground for lunch just across the stream; Laughing or phone 0450 366 773. TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 15 CAMPAIGN TO STOP ECOTOURISM PROJECT IN NATIONAL PARK

Friends of the Heysen Trail continue to support Friends of Park groups on Kangaroo Island with their ongoing campaign to stop proposed luxury accommodation in the Flinders Chase National Park. Here’s the latest news on that campaign.

co Action KI and the Parks not Playgrounds legal challenge to not Playgrounds group the proposed developments are: have employed a lawyer • not being legal under the SA and a QC to challenge the National Parks and Wildlife Act Edevelopment in the Supreme Court. 1972; This follows the decision in July • not according with the groups have suspended their of the Native Vegetation Council management plan for Flinders activities in parks in protest at the to approve the Australian Walking Chase National Park and the Kelly proposed development. Company’s plans to build luxury Hill Conservation Park adopted in accommodation on two coastal September 1993 and amended Interestingly, the development headlands of Flinders Chase 2017; process started under the former National Park, along with kilometres Labor government in January 2017 • proceeding without appropriate of roads and tracks, plus the when expressions of interest were community consultation; and commercialisation of the three Cape called to develop accommodation du Couedic lighthouse keepers • proceeding without a legitimate and services for the Kangaroo Island cottages. environmental assessment of the Wilderness Trail. The Australian potential impacts on nationally Walking Company has received a This followed approval received threatened species and referral $832,889 government grant from from the State Commission under the Commonwealth the Future Job Funds Grant to Assessment Panel. Environment Protection and provide the equivalent of 30 full Only one more step remains in the Biodiversity Conservation Act time jobs when operating at full approval process. The Australian 1999. capacity. Walking Company will now seek The groups on If you woud like to help or have any development approval from the KI have expressed their anger at questions, comments or suggestions Kangaroo Island Council. the approval process. Since the on the campaign, please contact The basis of Eco Action KI and Parks beginning of the year Friends [email protected] MT BROWN ACCOMMODATION Indulge yourself on the trail... Stay at ‘The Carriage’ at Catninga

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16 TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 PHOTOS: Julie Stapleton Some Botanical Thoughts on the Mt Remarkable Summit Trail Mary Lane continues her regular feature on plants commonly found along the Heysen Trail. This time she explores the Mt Remarkable Summit Trail.

t Remarkable is a significant feature of the landscape of Mthe lower Flinders, looming up as you head north. The Summit Trail, and the Heysen Trail, zig zags up the mountain from a height of 390 metres at the monument overlooking Melrose, to 960 metres at the top. As you ascend across the scree slopes and dense native vegetation, the first thing you notice is the stunning views over the Willochra Plains to the east. The second thing I noticed was the detail of the vegetation. With a rainfall similar to Adelaide, the trees are tall and dense, with a variety of eucalypts growing according to the altitude. Beneath is a diverse understorey of shrubs, ground covers and grasses. This is in contrast to the dry Willochra Plains to the east of Goyders Line and in the rain shadow. However, what the perceptive walker will notice is that the understorey varies according to the direction in which the mountainside faces. When the slope faces north you notice that the plants have to adapt to much harsher and drier conditions – often called schlerophyll adaptation. Sun lovers such as native heaths and grass trees thrive. However, when the path turns onto a south facing slope it is interesting to see far more delicate plants such as ferns, mosses and greenhood orchids tucked into the shady, damper corners. Micro climates indeed! So next time you are huffing and puffing up that path make the excuse to stop and marvel at (From top) The flowering spike of the Xanthorrhoea (Yacca or grass tree); nature’s clever adaptation to climate and the purple flowers of Solanum petrophilum, also known as Rock or and aspect. Prickly Nightshade TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 17 Heysen Trail recipes Scroggin and Muesli Bars Here are two nutritious and tempting snacks provided by Friends that should give you a boost and a reward on the trail.

croggin is a mixture of Guide by Karen Tempest (1995) nuts, dried fruit, sweets Wild Publications. Courtesy of Colin and chocolate. You can Edwards. add almost anything you hese energy-boosting and Slike to a scroggin mix. The sweets tin with baking paper. lightweight muesli bars have and chocolate will give you a less sugar and taste better quick hit of sugar, the dried fruit Put the butter, sugar and honey in a than most store-bought has slower release sugars, while small saucepan and stir over a low bars. And you don’t have all the the nuts provide protein. Scroggin T heat for five minutes or until the wrapping that comes with most pickers – who fish out the choice butter has melted and the sugar commercial versions that you need nibbles (usually the chocolate and dissolved. to carry out of the trail and then jelly beans) leaving a bag full of nuts puzzle over whether it’s recyclable Mix the remaining dry ingredients – are the bane of any bushwalking or not. together in a bowl. Make a well group. in the centre and pour in the 250g butter melted butter mixture. Stir well. The best thing about this recipe is 100g castor sugar Press mixture into the tin. Bake it’s so easy to make. 2 tablespoons honey for 45 minutes or until golden. 250g rolled oats Mix together nuts (peanuts, Cool completely in the tin before 65g desiccated coconut almonds, cashews), dried fruit refrigerating for two hours to make 30g cornflakes, lightly crushed (pawpaw, apricots, apples, sultanas, it firm before cutting into bars. currants), chopped dates, Smarties 50g flaked almonds or M&Ms, honeycomb, squares of 1 teaspoon mixed spice From Slices, Bay Books (2008), dark and milk chocolate, liquorice 90g dried apricots, finely chopped although Greg Martin, TW editor, bullets, jelly-babies or jelly beans. 185g dried fruit has modified the recipe by reducing Preheat oven to a warm 160°C. Line the amount of castor sugar; ‘there’s From Cooking for the Bush; A Wild a lightly greased 20x30cm shallow enough sweetness in the dried fruit’.

Travelling to Blinman? Alpana Sta�on Transport Service & Accommoda�on

David and Sally Henery of Alpana Sta�on Blinman offer a friendly, flexible and accredited transport service to the BEST (!) end of the Heysen Trail: Wilpena, Blinman, Parachilna Gorge Heysen Trailhead, for walkers (individuals or groups). Also transport to the Mawson Trail and further afield if required. Based just 5 km from Blinman in the Flinders Ranges, Alpana Sta�on offers: • Quality Selfcontained accommoda�on: Alpana shearers quarters for up to 14 people & Nungawur�na Hut bush retreat for up to 6 people • Powered sites with ensuite bathroom facili�es for caravans/campers • Scenic bush camping areas. Bookings Essen�al Contact David and Sally Henery Email: alpanasta�[email protected] Phone 08 8648 4626 Web: www.alpanasta�on.com PO Box 11, Blinman SA 5730

18 TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 Favourite Short Walks Do you have a favourite short walk? Why not share it with others. Trailwalker is encouraging its readers to submit their favourite short walks, whether they be part of the Heysen Trail or not. To start things off here’s one of the editor Greg Martin’s favourite short walks. Waterfall Gully to Mt Lofty Summit open at 8:30am Monday to Friday, Heysen Trail Hike, you can walk up to the Summit and 10am other days. It closes Mt Lofty Loop and take in the views – there are at 4pm Monday to Friday, 5pm toilets and a cafe – or continue weekends and public holidays he best feature of this along the trail past the summit turn (6pm on weekends during daylight 7.5km walk is that it’s a off to return to the entrance and the saving). If the botanic gardens were loop walk, while still using start of the hike. closed there would be no way to part of the Heysen Trail, complete this section of the hike. Tand is accessible from Adelaide by Opening and Closing Times pubic transport. The car park at Mt Lofty Summit Public Transport The walk includes the summit of Mt can be closed at times, but the trail The walk is accessed by public Lofty, views across Piccadilly Valley, is still easily accessible, with some transport: at bus stop 25 Summit a walk through the Mt Lofty Botanic parking available on Summit Road. Road, or stop 26 at Mt Lofty Summit, on the 823 bus service. Gardens, and the stringybark forests The Botanic Gardens of Cleland Conservation Park. Directions New Member Promo Winner The walk starts in the Mt Lofty Summit car park. Walk east downhill along Eurilla Track, following the Heysen Trail markers for about one kilometre until you reach Sprigg Road. Follow the bitumen road for 800m until Sprigg Road reaches a T-junction with Lambert Road. Turn right along Lambert Road and enter the Mt Lofty Botanic Gardens. Follow the Heysen Trail markers through the car park and across the dam. The trail here is shared with the BankSA Nature Trail, which heads uphill through the forest. Stick with the Heysen Trail markers until you exit the gardens Contratulations to Cherry Bailey, a child care worker and keen bushwalker, through the main gates. Follow the who was successful in the Friends’ New Member promotion. Cherry’s bitumen road up to Summit Road. membership application was randomly selected from 95 new members who Turn right down Summer Hill Drive joined FoHT between 1st March and 31st May 2019. Cherry wins a two-day and follow the Heysen Trail up to guided walk along the Heysen Trail and luxury overnight accommodation for Mt Lofty Summit through Cleland two adults at Heysen Rest at Myponga. The accommodation is generously Conservation Park. At the top of the donated by Jayne & Greg Jacques, hosts at Heysen Rest B&B.

Accommodation Nunn Road, Myponga along the Heysen Trail 2 self contained cabins with queen bed and single sofa ~ Reverse cycle air-conditioning Complimentary beer and wine upon arrival ~ Provisions for a cooked breakfast BBQ & outdoor setting ~ Mention this ad and get 10% discount New to Heysen’s Rest 4 brand new single rooms on the Heysen’s Trail Rooms include Ensuite, TV, fridge, king single bed, reverse cycle air condtioning and tea and coffee provided

TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 19

How To Care For Your Valuable Gore-Tex Jacket Tracey Evans provides some hints on caring for garments with Gore-Tex.

ore-Tex is designed to repel care label before proceeding. liquid water while allowing water vapour to pass Prepare jacket for washing by doing G up all zips, fasten flaps and straps, through – the idea being that rain can’t get in, but perspiration can get and loosen elastics. out. Machine wash on a warm cycle DWR (Durable Water Repellent) is a (40°C) using a small amount of liquid coating on the exterior of the jacket detergent. Rinse twice to remove to make water bead up and roll off. all residue and minimise spinning to This coating can be damaged due reduce creasing. Don’t use powder to abrasion and washing. detergents, fabric softeners, stain If you can’t tumble dry to reactivate removers or bleach. the DWR, iron the dried garment It is important to know how to on a gentle warm setting (warm, no wash a Gore-Text jacket properly to There are some products specifically steam) by placing a towel or cloth ensure maximum performance and formulated for washing technical between the garment and the iron. increase longevity. fabrics (e.g., Grangers Performance Wash). Water repellent treatment Washing Tips If washing and drying can no longer Gore-Tex needs be washed when Drying instructions reactivate water repellency, you’ll water ceases to bead and fall off, or Line dry or tumble dry on a warm, need to reapply a Durable Water when dirt or sweat contamination gentle cycle. Once it’s dry, tumble Repellent. Be sure to follow the is present. Always read the dry the garment for 20 minutes to manufacturer’s instructions for manufacturer’s instructions on the reactivate the DWR treatment on the outer fabric. reapplication.

Gary Pearce Solicitor

Take the Plunge Specialising in wills and estates including: · estate planning · powers of attorney · advance care directives · estate litigation · land transactions

61 Carrington Street Adelaide South Australia 5000 T 08 8237 0572 F 08 8237 0508 E [email protected] Image: Maggie Moy

20 TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 We Can’t Stop Here! Jim McLean, in previous issues of Trailwalker, has proposed starting the Heysen Trail from Kangaroo Island. Here he investigates continuing the trail from Parachilna to Mount Hopeless, in the northernmost Flinders Ranges.

n May 2012, I gloriously climbed walks and one or two overnighters. We (Above) View from Patawarta the stile in Parachilna Gorge to thought Freeling Heights difficult but Hill ... should be Patawarta complete the 1200kms of the unavoidable. You wouldn’t want to leave Mountain! And (below) Heysen Trail independently over 22 it out anyway. Blinman Hut and the promising Iyears. My companions and I looked at but failed Nuccaleena Mine As luck would have it there each other and said, ‘We shouldn’t stop was an immediate spark of here. Look what’s over the road!’ interest from my brother In the 1960s, Warren Bonython walked Andrew – a serious four- all the way to Mount Hopeless, the wheel driver and not so unofficial northern extent of the Flinders serious walker – offering Ranges*. We should do the same! transport and support for Robert Koehne, John Fuller Plenty of groups have done it, we and myself. thought, as we eyed the remote and mysterious country beyond. The base for an initial Such expeditions are not for the trip was Blinman Hut, the inexperienced, unskilled or faint-hearted. initiative of Keith and Lisa We did not fit any of these categories, Slade of Moolooloo Station, but we were getting on a bit. We were built and fitted out for past carrying 20kg packs on our backs. nomads like us. All country So this story is an attempt at a solution in this region is privately for everyone, including our valued senior leased. Developing respect citizens. and good relationships is fairly straightforward but Spreading the maps over the table essential. If you wish to revealed a possibility that, unfortunately, deviate from the publicly- did not include the spectacular accessible roads in the area interior of the Gammon Ranges. We you need permission from were thinking of bases in the sheep the landholders. station country between Parachilna, the Gammons and Arkaroola. From Setting off in June 2018, we there with the aid of 4WDs we could quickly discovered driving PHOTOS: Jim McLean do the route in bits and pieces: day to Moolooloo, chatting with Keith, and on to Blinman Hut, that it would take us *Walking The Flinders Ranges by C. Warren Bonython, 1971 Continued next page ... TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 21 We Can’t Stop Here! (cont.)

longer than expected for drop- PHOTOS: John Fuller and Jim McLean The main business of our offs and pick-ups. Certainly our visit – following the Oratunga, plan to get to Arkaroola this Molkegna and Narrina creek time round might have to be lines, with some vehicular track modified. on the connecting flats – was no less rewarding. It was the most Blinman Hut was the perfect pleasant ‘get-away-from-it-all’ stay. Bore and rain water were country anyone could imagine. on tap, the wood-fired stove warmed us in the evenings, and We made it from the Trailhead we had warm showers when we at Parachilna Gorge to Narrina stoked up the elevated boiler Homestead in four ‘day walks’. outside. Andrew’s 4WD provided But by then we were spending refrigerated storage and lighting so much time in drop-offs and inside the hut. We also were pick-ups that we knew if we went equipped with spacious tents for any further we would have no sleeping. time for walking. A few planned warm-up Next time we will possibly have excursions proved to be bases at Grindell’s Hut and engaging and sobering. The Arkaroola, pushing on to the promising but failed Nuccaleena closest vehicular access below Mine must have been exciting Freeling Heights. After that in its short life span. A lot of we would make our own base investment money was lost when camps. The valley after Freeling it prematurely ran out of ore. sounds, from Bonython’s book, inviting and well worth aiming We searched without success for on the way to Mount for the Aboriginal rock art on Hopeless. Tam O’Shanter Hill, but got a great view from the top. We I have an 18-day plan in spread- secured permission from the sheet format and a set of maps owner of Narrina Station to climb of a route from Parachilna Gorge Patawarta and visit the historic to Mount Hopeless that I would Artimore sheep station. Like be willing to share. Contact me many features in the northern via email on jamclean57@icloud. Flinders Ranges, Patawarta Hill com if you are interested. is inappropriately and tritely named. (Bonython spends some time in his book on this point, citing examples like Dick’s Knob.) Patawarta Hill should (From top) Andrew McLean (left) be Patawarta Mountain! From the and Jim McLean enjoying the north it was not a difficult climb; a view from atop Tam O’Shanter Jim McLean was a member of the most rewarding walk and the best of Hill; Narrina Creek and the historic Friends’ Council until he stood panoramic views from the top. Artimore sheep station down at the AGM in March this year.

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22 TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 We Can’t Stop Here! This Debate has Legs Andrew Eastick presented a paper to the South Australian Recreation Institute in April 1989 proposing the Heysen Trail be extended north of Parachilna Gorge to possibly Mount Hopeless. Clearly, the paper attracted some criticism. In a Letter to the Editor in the June 1990 Trailwalker newsletter Andrew defended his proposal. Here is an abridged version of that letter. PHOTO: Anne Kirk re-affirm my previously in remote walking areas the world expressed view that the over. Heysen Trail should be completed in the form of a To the purist the only satisfactory Icontinuous trail the full length of the result of this debate is for the Mount Lofty and Flinders Ranges Heysen Trail to stop at Parachilna as originally proposed by Warren Gorge. The purist argues that Bonython in 1968. people should join walking groups to enable access to the remote My paper proposed a range of northern Flinders Ranges. This options that this final section view devalues the challenge and could take. Unfortunately, many romance of walking the Heysen of the people and organisations Trail stretching the full length of the who responded inferred that I had Mount Lofty and Flinders Ranges. advocated that the Trail continue north in a form similar to that used Walking clubs generally do not in the south. This was not so. I cater for the concept of the deliberately structured the paper continuous long-distance walker, to consider the range of options evidenced by an increasing number while well established in many available, and deliberately refrained of people who have walked all walking areas throughout the world, from expressing a personal view. marked sections of the trail in is largely untried in South Australia. recent years. The original concept Since preparing the paper, and Namely, using walking guides in and extent of the Heysen Trail is its subsequent publication, I have remote areas. important in attracting people to it made several extended walks and this should not be under-rated. The northern section of the Heysen into part of the area in question, Trail could be opened up for walkers namely the Gammon Ranges and The proposal for a guided service by way of a guide service. Although the Mawson Plateau. My walking for the proposed northern section people cannot and should not be companions and I had time to of the Trail acknowledges the strong restricted from walking in the area, reflect further on the issues relating view that the area should be treated access to the Heysen Trail north of to the extension of the trail. as a ‘’wilderness area’ and should Parachilna Gorge would be by the be free of any structures or form Out of these discussions a new hire of an accredited guide, just relating to the trail, but provide a option has emerged. A concept, as guides provide similar services safe access to those attracted by the original concept of the Heysen Trail. Win a FREE 2020 Calendar It is clear there will be Submit your photos to the Friends strong opposition to the of the Heysen Trail 2020 Calendar Heysen Trail extension. However, I believe this for a chance to win a free copy. compromise will be seen If we use one of your photos, you’ll by many to be reasonable, and result in access to win a calendar. the area in a way safe to Maximum of four photos per person. the walker and safe to the Photos need to be landscape and environment. PHOTOS: Simon Cameron & Philip Bell meet the minimum specifications; [Editor: This is an abridged generally, a 7-mega pixel camera will version of Andrew Eastick’s suffice if on the highest image quality Letter to the Editor. To setting. read the full version see Email your photos to heysentrail@ Trailwalker June 1990 gmail.com by Friday 20th September. on the Friends’ website (Emails to this address can be as large heysentrail.asn.au/ ] as 25MB.) trailwalker

TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 23 PHOTO: Warren Bonython Foundation

Greening the Trail Neil Nosworthy Neil Nosworthy reports on recent greening activities of the Warren Bonython Foundation. he Warren Bonython tree guards erected a Heysen Trail Foundation couple of years ago was established as the to protect the earlier fundraising arm of the plantings from the Friends of the Heysen Trail in order ravages of sheep and

T PHOTO: to assist with the development of kangaroos have been the Heysen Trail and other walking re-used. A recent trails in South Australia. The inspection revealed Foundation is a registered charity that the new trees are Robert Alcock with tax-deductible donations being thriving. directed towards improving the environment around the Trail. Replacement trees The Foundation acknowledges the at Robinson Hill. receipt of generous donations from Last year, a small Michael Fogarty and Anna Molan, planting was Neil Beverly, Cea Cea Moller and undertaken at Tim Bright, Robert Surnam, and Robinson Hill in an Susan Coldbeck. effort to provide a screen for the toilet. Neville Haar (left) with Neil and Ann The Foundation also thanks new Unfortunately, most of the planting Nosworthy with the new plaque at members Jane Mathews, Niels did not weather the extended Spalding; and volunteers planting Gebauer, Rosalind Miles and summer. So replacement trees trees at Newland Head Andrew Rutherford. have been planted and a more 19th and 20th October and 7th and Make a tax-deductible diligent care arrangement will be 8th December 2019. Interested donation through our website implemented. wbheysentrailfoundation.org.au volunteers should contact Carolyn Supporting local Schultz on carolyn.schultz165@ In addition, lifetime membership environmental groups. gmail.com of the Foundation can be obtained The Foundation has recently Friends of Newland Head with a payment of $25.00 on the implemented a strategy of assisting website. environmental groups working in Conservation Park. Three representatives of the Warren Greening activities areas along the Heysen Trail. This is seen as a good way to facilitate Bonython Heysen Trail Foundation Plaques at planting sites. environmental improvements in recently attended a tree planting day at Newland Head to assist ecently, plaques were erected these areas. the Friends of Newland Head at Worlds End, Spalding Cape Jervis Coastal Conservation Park. They were and Hiskeys Hut where trees R Community Group (CJCCG). among 74 volunteers who put in have been planted over the last over 1100 plants to help restore few years along the Trail. The For several years CJCCG has been habitat for the western pygmy plaques acknowledge efforts of the working on the revegetation of possum, a vulnerable species. The volunteers from the Friends of the land – including controlling weeds Foundation aims to support further Heysen Trail with assistance from the – adjacent to the Heysen Trail acitivites of the Friends of Newland Foundation. As an aside, it is worth trailhead at Cape Jervis. Recently, Head. The group has working reporting that all of the plantings volunteers from the Friends assisted bees weekly on Friday mornings are developing, particularly at the group with some new planting and on the second Saturday of the Spalding which is becoming a on the site. month from 9.00am until midday. forest, although those at Worlds End The CJCCG holds bi-monthly Interested volunteers should contact continue to make slow progress. working bees on the site and welcomes all volunteers. The next Simon Swan on simonandlee01@ gmail.com More trees at Hiskeys Hut. working bees are scheduled for In May, about 60 more trees were The Warren Bonython Heysen Trail Foundation was established planted on the southern and to honour the late Warren Bonython AO, founder of the Heysen western sides of the hut, aiming Trail. The Foundation aims to raise funds to support and undertake to provide a windbreak from the environmental initiatives associated with the Heysen Trail and prevailing winds. The wire netting other significant walking trails or environmental areas in SA.

24 TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 Wading Through Canyons Izabela Buick recommends spending time in the national parks of the Southwest of the United States. he Southwest of the proceeded to The Narrows, the United States is a wild second famous hike in this area. and adventurous part The Narrows is on many people’s of what the USA has to bucket list. It’s a 16km round trip Toffer. You could easily spend a few hike along the Virgin River in a weeks visiting the national parks gorge with 300m walls. We only of Nevada, Utah, Arizona and walked for about 10kms. Most of the California. Sadly, my family and I route required walking in the river, only had six days. Nevertheless, we but there are some sandy, rocky managed to get a good taste of paths on the side of the river that some of the most well-known and offer a short respite from the water. stunning national parks in Southwest The water is very cold, although USA. the canyon can be hiked in rented We started our Southwest journey waterproof shoes and neoprene with a three-hour drive from Las socks, plus long poking sticks that Vegas to Springdale in Utah, the come in handy when the current is gateway to Zion Canyon, which is a very strong. This hike was perfect in vast national park that offers trails, the hot afternoon sun, and the way Izabela Buick in Utah’s Bryce Canyon climbing, camping and much more. back was made more pleasant with ... ‘a spectacular trip with tunnels, us floating with the current in the gorgeous red rocks and distinctive Like all the parks in this area, Zion is deeper sections. very organised and developed for geological features’ tourism. There is a shuttle bus that The next stop on our Southwest runs through Springdale that picks – 21 in total – that allows the trail American journey was Bryce up people and drops them at the to climb the canyon wall before National Park, also in Utah. entrance of the park. You must pay reaching the ridge at Scout Lookout. Bryce Canyon is a 2.5-hour drive an entrance fee for every national Here the views are amazing. We from Zion, a spectacular trip with park in the US. We were planning paused for the views and to play tunnels, gorgeous red rocks and on visiting more than one national with the cliff chipmunks. From distinctive geological features park, so a local recommended we here on the hike is nothing but such as Checkerboard Mesa. The purchase an Annual Pass for $US80 exhilarating, with many exposed canyon is the perfect example of that covered us for all the parks. sections, plenty of chains, guardrails how erosion affects landscapes. It’s Since we only had a full day in Zion, and huge drop offs on either side famous for its phantom-like rock we decided to do the most famous of the path. As this hike is very spires also known as ‘hoodoos’ that and iconic hikes: Angel’s Landing exposed, it is a good idea to do dot the landscape for miles. There and The Narrows. it early in the morning, allowing for about four hours hiking time. are many hiking trails throughout Angel’s Landing is a steep straight- We finished around 11 o’clock, the park with varying degrees of up trail, with lots of switchbacks had lunch and a bit of a rest, and difficulty. It’s a big park and, like Continued next page ... Canyons (cont.)

Zion, there is a free shuttle that drops people off at the main points of attraction. We allocated only one day in this park and decided to do a shorter hike called the Navajo Loop Trail, a spectacular two-hour trail that starts from the rim of the Angels Landing (left) and The Canyon and descends along a Narrows, both in Zion National Park; series of long and short switchbacks and (below) the stunning Antelope down to the canyon floor. Here two Canyon in Arizona towering Douglas Firs have been growing for more than 750 years. this place so unforgettable. There are many viewing points that can be reached in one day’s drive. Finally, the Grand Canyon But to truly experience this canyon in Arizona, probably the I would highly recommend doing at most iconic of all the US least one hike. Combine the Navajo national parks. It’s like a Loop Trail with the Queens Garden right of passage to visit this Loop to witness some of the best park, the largest canyon in scenery in the park. The unique the world, with its 446km landscape of Bryce Canyon is one length, 29km width and a not to be missed. depth of 1857 metres. No journey to this area is complete There are two sides of without a trip to famous Antelope the Grand Canyon, the Canyon. North Rim and the South Rim. They are four hours Arizona’s Antelope Canyon is away from each other by famous for the world’s most car, so doing both in the same day PHOTOS: Izabela Buick expensive photograph. is not recommended. We went to at the Lookout Studio in the Grand the South Rim, the most popular, Called Phantom, the photo was Canyon Village at sunset, one of the and the one that offers the most shot in a subterranean cavern in the most scenic spots in the world. breathtaking views. There are canyon by Australian photographer numerous viewing points all around The US Southwest is a very unique Peter Lik and in 2014 sold for a the park. There are a few options on and stunning part of the United record-setting $6.5 million. reaching them: by car, with the free States. So if you are heading to Los Because of the canyon’s popularity it shuttle bus, or you can stroll the Rim Angeles for the famed Disneyland is very important to book a tour well Trail. We were a bit short of time, or the bright lights of Las Vegas, in advance. I recommend booking so we decided to only take in the make sure you include the one-week the 10 or 11 o’clock time slot, as view from a few points, such as the road trip through the neighbouring these times get you closer to the Mather Point, Grandview Point and National Parks of Nevada, Utah and light beams shining through the the Watchtower. I will cherish forever Arizona to witness some of the most openings in the caverns that make the experience of eating sandwiches breathtaking scenery in the world.

• Location: 5kms from Bundaleer Reservior in Mid North SA. Close to Heysen & Mawson Trails • Comfortable accommodation in the Farm Homestead, includes continental breakfast • Evening meals available – pre booking required Your Hosts: Harry & Sandy Osborn • Cater for walkers – transfers available by prior arrangement 1029 Pipeline Rd, Gulnare • Powered & non powered sites for self contained caravans [email protected] ; 0417 813 095 • Tent sites www.ossiesfarmstay.com

26 TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 The English Way of Camino de Santiago Kevin Liddiard describes the English Way: six days from the Spanish port city of Ferrol to Santiago de Compostela.

ravelling on business which went up and down until to the US and Europe I mastered the controls. At some in April, I decided to accommodations evening meals take time off to walk the were arranged at a local café, Camino de Santiago. For which was rather challenging Tthose unfamiliar with the tradition, guessing the Spanish menu. No the Camino, also called the Way of problem with red wine. Oh, and Saint James, is a network of walks evening meals start after 8.00pm. taken by pilgrims to the shrine of the apostle Saint James in the I enjoyed the Camino and the Cathedral Santiago de Compostela spiritual implication of walking in Galicia, northwest Spain. this historic path. As expected, there were not many walkers The most popular is the French this early in the season; those Way, walking westward towards doing so typically greeting with Santiago. Being an Anglo-Australian the Spanish ‘hola’, or simply ‘El and seeking a quieter experience, Camino!’. If I stopped to rest, I I chose the English Way, Camino was asked if I needed help. Do Inglés, walking six days from Ferrol I really look that old? Which southwards to Santiago. This is the brings me to the last day. historic way of pilgrims travelling from the British Isles. The walk is I missed a waymark and two accepted for awarding the official young ladies from Portugal and Compostela pilgrim certificate. Belgium pointed the direction and stayed with me, looking back I walked solo with UTracks, to ensure I was not carrying a daypack between lost. We arrived accommodations. Walking solo together, by this was a personal choice, but also time as a team, the tradition of the early pilgrims. celebrated our The walk was on paved footpaths, walk, obtaining our narrow alleys in towns, fields and pilgrim certificates, forests, passing through the towns and then escorting of Pontedeume, Betanzos and me to my hotel Sigueiro. Galicia is a mountainous with hugs and region, so there are some steep kisses. Such are climbs. the blessings of a solo octogenarian To gain a pilgrim certification walking the at least two stamps per day are Camino. required in the pilgrim’s passport, obtained at accommodation, For more details on churches and cafes. Some walkers the English Camino simply went into the many cafes to refer The Camino get a stamp. I felt it incumbent to Ingles at www. at least spend some euros; a quiet caminoways.com rest, a snack and a glass of vino. I reported to my family that I had (From top) Kevin mastered the Spanish for everyday with ‘two young greetings, courtesies and red wine. ladies from Portugal and Belgium’ Walking solo I opted for an outside the accommodation upgrade. All Cathedral Santiago venues were excellent; some de Compostela; rather eccentric. At Pontedeume and the English I communicated via smartphone Way through typical language translator, and in the Galician forests and morning my breakfast was delivered villages to my upstairs room by dumbwaiter, PHOTOS: Kevin Liddiard Photos on the trail Trailwalker Photo Competition PHOTO: Philip Bell

Paddy Melon Philip and Leanne Bell took this photo of themselves reading Trailwalker at Nature’s Window in WA’s Kalbarri Bocce? National Park. We invite readers to submit similar photos Julie Stapleton of themselves or others reading Trailwalker in interesting submitted these photos or unusual sites. (Please no shots of reading the from a recent End-to magazine on camp loos as we’re a family publication.) End 10 walk near The best submissions will win the distinction of having Melrose. Her fellow their photograph published in Trailwalker. walkers found a novel way of entertaining Trailwalker is keen to publish any amusing or unique themselves with an photos taken on the trail. Please submit your high- impromtu game of resolution shots, with an explanation, to The Editor on

Paddy Melon Bocce. [email protected]

Fli nders & Beyond Camel Treks Unique Burra Accommodation

2020 Walking Treks

Beyond Heysen: 22nd June – 8th July

7th July – 23rd July

The Stables • A unique experience meters from the Trail • Log fire and wood oven Join us in 2020 on a trek comple�ng the Heysen trail remote sec�on ‘Beyond Heysen’. Explore hidden treasures of the Flinders Ranges with • Lit by oil lamps and candles camels carrying your supplies. Trek through gum lined creek beds, • Cast iron hip bath towering gorges, rare geological forma�ons and sparkling dry lakes. • Bunks and Hayloft/sleeps 6 See na�ve flora and fauna in its natural habitat and enjoy the night sky • Minimal power laser show with astronomer Ryan. • Short walk to pub, shops and market Walking treks fully catered, swags and transfers included. No roads, no vehicles, no mobile recep�on; detach from hec�c Cost $27p.p. - linen extra everyday life and enjoy this unforge�able experience that will create Part of Olive Grove Retreat Accomodation memories to last a life �me. For more informa�on contact: Email [email protected] Phone: (08) 8648 3713 Ph. 08 88922679 Email: info@flindersandbeyondcamels.com.au Mob.0447 445 506

28 TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 Tarn Shelf Circuit via Lake Newdegate, Twilight Tarn and Lake Webster Mike Joyce describes a demanding 16km walk in Tasmania’s Mt Field National Park that had everything from remnants of snow to rainforest. PHOTOS: Mike Joyce n December 2018 a group – including native orchids – and of End-to-End 6 walkers birds. converged on Tasmania. The main purpose of the trip Now, back to our hike. After only Iwas to walk the 3 Capes Walk. a short walk beside Lake Dobson However, if you travel to Tassie it we veered left towards the alpine makes a lot of sense to check out area. It is no surprise that as a few more walks in this beautiful the hill climb starts so does the state. spectacular views across mountain ranges, valleys and Lake Seal. Eight of us booked huts in Mount These views provide a welcome Field National Park and treated excuse to stop, suck in some fresh ourselves to a number of walks in air and enjoy the scenery. the area. This walk was a beauty. Outside our accommodation near Once we reached the alpine terrain Described by Adam Matthews as Lake Dobson with (from left) Adam, we left the rocky pathway for a the best day’s walk he had ever Leanne, Mark (our organiser), Robin, boardwalk that is in place to protect done, it included steep climbs, Lyn and Cathy rocky terrain, boggy sections, the delicate alpine terrain and board walk and a variety of terrain plants. We soon came to Rodway from alpine areas with remnants Hut, an emergency shelter, and of snow to rain forest. There were the sight of the first three of lakes, tarns, emergency shelters many alpine lakes: Robert Tarn, and spectacular views. All of this MacKenzie Tarn and Johnston was included in a demanding walk Tarn. The tarns are particularly that was only 16kms. beautiful as they are calm with amazing reflections. A great place The walk starts at Lake Dobson. to pause for morning tea. We actually spotted trout peacefully gliding by. There are From there we continued along also rumours that platypus inhabit the tarn shelf below Rodway the lake, but an evening stroll Range. We progressed towards around the lake did not result in a We clamber up the rocky track and Lake Newdegate, past numerous sighting. However, a three-kilometre (below) the reward for our climbing tarns and lots of dead trees with walk around the lake did provide is amazing views over Lake Seal and silver trunks looking quite beautiful sightings of some beautiful plants beyond. The tarns also come into in the sunshine. Eventually we view to the left of the photograph Continued next page ...

TRAILWALKER SPRING 2019 29 Boardwalk in the alpine areas protects the delicate plants Twilight Hut is beside Twilight Tarn. A perfect place for lunch with the Tasmanian Waratah in full bloom Tarn Shelf Circuit (cont.) hard to get used to lakes being on top came to Twilight Tarn and stopped of hills, it just doesn’t at the Twilight Hut for lunch. The seem right. hut contained lots of interesting memorabilia – photos, old skis and However, we made ski poles, etc. However, the snake it back to Lake that greeted Robin on his way to the Dobson, shed toilet was not appreciated. our footwear and soothed our feet in Somehow we had the feeling the cool, platypus- that the rest of the walk would be free water. All gently downhill, but we were sadly agreed that it was a disappointed. We had descended great walk of variety further than we thought. Strange and spectacular how the descents go unnoticed. scenery. A perfect The track past Lake Webster back to warm-up for the This little stream flowed from Lake Dobson. A perfect Lake Dobson was definitely UP. It is 3 Capes Walk. place to cool the feet.

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Help care for our bushland Discover and help protect some of our state’s most threatened species and habitats. Spend time outdoors with others and connect with nature. Adopt your own Bush For Life site, attend a workshop or join a Bush Action Team.

To get involved call 08 8406 0500 or email [email protected]