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Flying the An-2 in Guatemala and El Salvador, 2005 and Throwing in Alaska and the Iditarod® Trail Sled Dog Race Just for Fun

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Flying the An-2 in Guatemala and El Salvador, 2005 and Throwing in Alaska and the Iditarod® Trail Sled Dog Race Just for Fun Flying the An-2 in Guatemala and El Salvador, 2005 and throwing in Alaska and The Iditarod® Trail Sled Dog Race just for fun by Matthew A. Nelson Guatemala, El Salvador, & Iditarod Matthew A. Nelson Flying the An-2 in Guatemala and El Salvador, 2005 and throwing in Alaska and The Iditarod® Trail Sled Dog Race just for fun by Matthew A. Nelson PRELUDE From: Catherine Chandler Hamilton (September, 2003) Subject: Antonov friendship circle Dear Matt, What a nice surprise to receive your mail with fond reminders of the Antonov visit to Fairbanks. Now, 3 weeks after the fact, our little airpark here still seems forlorn with the collective absence of that grand airplane and its wonderful cast and crew. It is pretty tough to top an act like that. It is really neat that you are writing about this adventure - one chapter of many in the life of N87AN but one of a very few, I'm quite sure, that ever makes it to paper. Perhaps they should take you along on all of their trips as their historian.... Those of you that recognize the preceding e-mail from Catherine Chandler Hamilton will probably remember that I used these words in the final pages of my story, “Flying The Antonov An-2 In Alaska, 2003”. As much as I would like to be the historian for this airplane, at this time I can only add one more chapter in the life of N87AN, but hopefully, will add many more in the future. About a year-and-a-half had passed since I had last seen Neal Oppen, Douglas Fulton, and his wife Jeanne Passin after our little adventure of flying the An-2 around in Alaska. In September, 2003, they flew their plane to California. Later, they took the Antonov to Central America, flying and camping around Mexico, Belize, Costa Rica, Panama, Guatemala, and El Salvador. Perhaps they went to other countries, but I don’t know for sure. I was invited to join them on that trip, but didn’t. They left the plane at the Guatemala City airport in March, 2004 and went back to Valdez, Alaska for the Summer. We kept in touch, and by Thanksgiving time, I had bought an airline ticket to Guatemala, with an “open- jaw” return from El Salvador. In the past few years there has been an air show in El Salvador during the last weekend of January, so our intentions were to fly the Antonov to the air show, and then after the show I would leave El Salvador to come back to Houston. Things pretty much worked out that way, except there was no air show in El Salvador. So what does the trip in the An-2 have to do with the Iditarod® Trail Sled Dog Race? Really not much, except the race came up while I was writing the story about flying in the An-2 in Guatemala and El Salvador, so I just decided to combine the stories, much like I did last year when I wrote the story, “West 1 Guatemala, El Salvador, & Iditarod Matthew A. Nelson Texas, Steinway Pianos, & The Explorers Club”. Somehow there just has to be a connection about flying in Central America in a plane with “Alaska” painted on its tail and going to Alaska to watch the Iditarod! Besides, the first day in Guatemala I met Nancy Johnson, the sister of Douglas, and I ate dinner at her house the last night in Alaska, so the connection isn’t too far-fetched. EA-3B at Ft. Meade, Maryland on July 13, 2004. Center, left to right: Craig Loe, Jack Clodfelter, & Matthew Nelson New Subject: In July of last year, I attended the dedication of an aircraft, the Navy EA-3B, at Ft. Meade, Maryland. By now, people familiar with my stories will probably recognize that I flew on a similar airplane in 1968. Lt. Col. (Ret) Elton Loe and SFC Jackson Clodfelter, two men whom I served under, were with me at the dedication at Ft. Meade, along with Jack’s friend (now my friend) Gary Auerswald. On January 18th of this year, my friend Jackson passed away. He always wanted to hear about my travels and we became pretty good friends over the past several months. Although over the years I have lost many good friends and relatives, for some reason it just seemed like the natural thing to do of giving him the title of my “Guardian Angel”. In July of this year, I plan on flying my 1947 Stinson to Alaska. As I told Gary and Jack’s wife Louise, when I make that flight, I want to think that Jackson will be flying with me as my Guardian Angel. But just as I don’t want to go flying off to Alaska without having more flights in my airplane between now and then, Jackson needs to transition into his new role gradually; therefore, I used the these trips to Guatemala, El Salvador, and Alaska to let him learn the ropes of what it’s like being a Guardian Angel for a traveler like Matt Nelson. This story is dedicated to the memory of my friend, SFC Jackson Clodfelter. 2 Guatemala, El Salvador, & Iditarod Matthew A. Nelson Part 1 – Guatemala and El Salvador Wednesday, January 26th A few minutes after takeoff from Houston’s George Bush Intercontinental Airport, the Continental Airlines Boeing 737 crossed over Galveston Island and then the deep blue waters of the Gulf of Mexico came into view. Occasionally, I saw a freighter. As we approached the Yucatan Peninsula, the color of the water became more of a greenish-blue. As we flew over Mexico, I could see the many small farms and villages, where people are just trying to make a living. Gradually, the farms disappeared into the green foliage of a jungle. Off to the West I could see several volcanoes. Some had the classic conic shape, while others now look tired after millions of years of surrendering to the forces of nature and gravity and erosion. In their younger years, they too had proudly once roared like dragons, with their breath of rotten eggs and their mouths spitting molten fire. Now they are like old drunken men, collapsed, sunken, wrapped with blankets of trees and rocks to keep warm as they bask in the sun, because they long ago spewed their fiery innards from deep within the earth, as I did once spewed my fiery innards from deep within after a bottle of rum. They called me the Volcan Mateo! Had I been sitting on the left side of the 737 during the landing, I would have seen the An-2 when we taxied to the terminal building. Momentary glancing at my passport, the immigration official smiled and waved me through; likewise, the customs official just collected my form and welcomed me to Guatemala. Douglas told me to meet him on the second floor of the terminal building; as I headed up the stairs he was walking down. I converted some US dollars to Quetzales; we grabbed a bite to eat and walked to the airplane. We walked through a security check point, shortly thereafter turned right, and there it was, parked so that it faced the hangars and in such a position that it could see me when I came into view, almost as if it was waiting for me to show up. Antonov An-2, tail number N87AN, looked majestic as it welcomed me back. Was that my imagination, or did it really smile when it saw me? I know I smiled when I saw it. It is of Russian design, built in Poland, and now owned by a couple of Americans. I never did like the Russian politics and the bad things they did to people and their rotten Commie philosophy, but I have to admit they know how to build a good airplane. I spent my military years in the Sixties silently fighting the Cold War, so I have it ingrained in my system. I even feel somewhat guilty about wanting to fly on a Russian airplane, but not any more than I did while visiting the Soviet launch complex in Baikonur in 1992 to see the launch of the Soyuz TM-15 spacecraft. NASA is now in partnership with the Russians on the International Space Station. My cameras are made in Japan and have German designed lenses; I drove my parents Volkswagen to the New York World’s Fair in 1964; Karoline drives a Honda Pilot. Times change, and old adversaries now have mutual business dealings, even if the trust between each other is not so mutual. 3 Guatemala, El Salvador, & Iditarod Matthew A. Nelson So, while my loyalties are very strongly American, I appreciate good engineering, and the chance to have another good adventure flying in such a well built plane like the An-2. For three or four hours Douglas and I worked to make the plane ready to fly. I transferred oil from quart bottles into gallon jugs. I wiped up oil off the plane. I transferred oil from the plane and the gallon jugs to the shirt and jeans and boots and Mountain Lakes Seaplane Training hat that I wore. We stayed busy, and I know I did more things than transfer oil, but now I don’t remember what they were, nor do I remember much of what Douglas did. Airplanes with names on their sides, such as United, Delta, Continental, COPA, TACA, and DHL, taxied by us. DHL uses older 727s that have ear-shattering jet engines.
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