SIP PHOTO: RANDY CAPAROSO

CERTIFIEDTHE STATEWIDE CERTIFICATION PROGRAM IS CREATING A SUSTAINABLE QUALITY REVOLUTION IN CALIFORNIA BY RANDY CAPAROSO

The best , it’s always been said, are made in the . That doesn’t make winemakers superfluous, because they, too, make decisions that determine how grapes are grown. But if really is made in the vineyard, then most of the reason why California wines have attained such high levels of critical success over the past ten, fifteen years is because of improved performance in the field. Because of farmers, if you will—not winemakers, who often reap most of the glory. In the Central Coast wine region—stretching from San Francisco County all the way down to Santa Barbara County, accounting for some 90,300 acres of planted wine grapes (15% of California’s total)—there is a common thread running through the most presti- gious vineyards. The commonality? They are all farmed according SIP Certified standards, the statewide certification that is generally considered the country’s strictest program of sustainable grape growing. As of 2016, over 40,000 acres of California vineyards have been SIP Certified—reflecting dramatic growth since SIP’s inception in 2008, when 3,700 acres were first certified. What makes SIP—an acronym for Sustainability in Practice—significant for the wine trade? That is, what is it about SIP Certified that makes a direct impact on the quality of the wines we buy and sell in the market?

Harvest at Ancient Peaks in Paso Robles. PHOTO COURTESY OF ANCIENT PEAKS SIP Certified means that employees are offered competitive wages, benefits and training.

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Somm Journal Aug/Sept_102-148.indd 104 7/27/16 2:46 PM PHOTO: RANDY CAPAROSO A Look at Some SIP Certified Vineyards and Their Wines

Our conversations with winemakers and growers on how SIP Certified directly impacts their business, and ultimately the quality of wines that come to the wine trade. Halter Ranch Tucked among the coastal mountain slopes of Paso Robles’ Adelaida District AVA is a 2,000-acre estate called Halter Ranch. Only 281 acres of the property have been planted to grapes, and there are zero plans to plant more. “Halter Ranch,” says Winemaker Kevin Sass, “has always been a conservation project. Our owner, Hansjörg Wyss, bought the property 15 years ago specifically

to preserve it. We’re actually one PHOTO: RANDY CAPAROSO of his smaller projects. The Wyss Foundation has spent over $175 CERTIFIED A sign in the Santa Lucia Highlands million to preserve and protect denotes a SIP Certified vineyard. some 14 million acres in various other parts of the U.S.” How Sustainability Correlates By adhering to SIP Certified with Quality protocols, Halter Ranch was When you see a SIP Certified/ recently recognized for its sus- Sustainability in Practice seal on a bottle, tainable program with a 2016 it is indeed a re-assurance that grapes California Green Medal Award going into the wine have been certified presented by the Wine Institute Winemaker Kevin Sass in a head-trained Grenache to meet a full range of meaningful stan- and several other grower asso- block at Halter Ranch dards, including: ciations. Says Sass, who formerly made wine for Justin Vineyards before joining Halter Ranch six years ago, “I’ve worked Social Responsibility: Employees offered with a lot of vineyards in Paso Robles, but there’s something about a healthier vine- competitive wages, benefits and training. yard when you walk through them. The ground is not rock hard, there’s more energy Water Conservation: Soils, plants, in the soil, air and plants. You can feel the difference.” weather monitored regularly; vines irri- Adds Sass, “It starts with the basic premise that healthy vines produce better grapes, gated as needed. leading to wines with a stronger sense of place. Even before I joined Halter Ranch, it was producing tons of its own compost and had completely eliminated chemicals like Clean Water: Grasses are grown to preemergents (herbicides) that can get into the ground and hinder build-up of micro- reduce erosion and filter storm runoff. organisms that help create biomass. All the things we do—dry farming, establishing Safe Pest Management: Introduction of gardens of native species, planting vines around oak trees which serve as habitats for beneficial insects, raptors and cover crops raptors and other birds, moving armies of chickens around in a mobile coop to help adding organic matter to soil, leading to with pest control, even moving away from so-called soft herbicides like glyphosate healthy vines. [aka Roundup] by going to under-vine Clemens tillers—all these things help us meet Energy Efficiency:Tractor use minimized the goals ingrained in Mr. Wyss’s basic philosophy of leaving properties in better shape to reduce carbon footprint, and use of than how we found them.” alternative fuels and energy sources such as solar and wind. Halter Ranch 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Adelaida District–Paso Robles 13% Malbec, 9% Petit Verdot Habitat: Establishment of wildlife cor- ridors giving animals access to traditional Possessing all the qualities that have distinguished the best Paso Robles watering holes and food, and land usage Cabernet Sauvignons in recent years: lavish concentration of floral, cassis- contributing biodiversity. like fruit and velvety, musclebound finesse, finishing in a blaze of PHOTO COURTESY OF ANCIENT PEAKS soy-glazed, roasted/charred meatiness. Third Party Audit: Third party verifica- tion of SIP standards through documen- Halter Ranch 2013 , Adelaida District–Paso Robles tation and on-site inspections. 5% Improvement: Annual updates and peer Extravagant, floral violet/raspberry perfume; tightly wound, full, layered reviews to incorporate latest science, feel; the flowery fruit lit up by palate-ringing natural acidity and filled technology and research. out by moderately grippy tannin. v

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According to Mike Sinor, Director of benefit of oury employees and long term Winemaking at Ancient Peaks in Paso success of your business.” Robles, “Unquestionably, sustainable Another Paso Robles winemaker, Kevin grape growing results in grapes that are Sass of Halter Ranch, explains the “people” not just more expressive in fruit charac- element of SIP Certified in these terms: ter, but also with stronger sense of place, “You can’t over-emphasize the social equity or typicity. For Ancient Peaks, this means aspect of SIP. We have ten tractor drivers we can compete by offering wines with who get paid vacations and benefits like their own unique structure and flavor— 401(k)s, the same way as admin and wine- differences our customers can grasp and making staff. For seasonal workers, we offer appreciate. It’s no secret—more vivid quality housing, car pools, etc. SIP awards wine equals increased sales. That’s the points and bonus points for all of this, and entire purpose of sustainability—to make in the long run we benefit from the skill a long lasting impact on your environ- level. As much as the grapes in the field, The SIP Certified seal on a Halter Ranch v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v vment v and qualityv ofv your product,v v to the v or vhow wev conserve v power v through v skyv- Syrahv bottle. v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v Bien Nacido Vineyards PHOTO: RANDY CAPAROSO Along the eastern slopes of Santa Maria Valley, where Santa Barbara County winegrowing first began in the mid-1960s, Bien Nacido’s Vineyard Manager Chris Hammell put down his guitar long enough to talk about SIP Certified’s impact on this iconic vineyard: “You can be Romanée-Conti, and be blessed with the perfect vintage, but you’d still fail if you’re missing the right people—they’re the ones who make sure your vineyard is not inundated with mildew, oidium, botrytis, etc. You need people to make the right decisions about when and how to prune, drop fruit, pull leaves, cultivate healthy soil necessary for quality grapes. One of the unique things about SIP is the way it’s written, where people are just as important as the other two major concerns: planet and profitability. “That’s why Bien Nacido was committed to sustainable practices even before I got here 15 years ago. In the beginning there were guidelines with fewer specifics, but SIP has helped establish best Vineyard Manager Chris Hammell at Bien Nacido Vineyards. operating procedures down to every last detail—little things that I might often miss, because there’s always so much to think about. You can ask yourself the basic question: If we go through all this trouble, soil and leach into the water that our kids and neighbors drink, are stop looking for easy ways out with pesticides or herbicides, does never a good thing. Damn right, SIP is important!” this actually make better wines? But if you want to be SIP Certified, the question is moot. Shortcuts are never an option—and there’s Bien Nacido Vineyards 2013 value in that kind of discipline.” , Santa Maria Valley Nicholas Miller, fifth-generation owner of Bien Nacido and nearby Crafted from Bien Nacido’s oldest, Solomon Hills Vineyards, adds, “Our family has always strived to own-rooted plantings (Wente Clone make sustainable decisions for future generations. SIP has become 04, planted in 1973); citrus flower and a tangible vehicle for us to communicate that—particularly to our lemon drop nose with the thinnest veil winery/clients, nearly 70 of them buying from the 160 planted acres of creamy oak; sleek, silky, elongated, in our two estates.” snappy-edged medium body, finishing “Great wines and winemakers have always been associated with with mineral and citrus sensations. Bien Nacido,” says Hammell. “SIP doesn’t let us take anything for granted. I’m a big SIP guy because our values fall right in line with Bien Nacido Vineyards 2013 Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley theirs. We don’t cut corners because Bien Nacido is not known Plummy, raspberry perfume with an herbal core, deepened by for that. But it’s also a matter of fundamental values—because we sweet-spiced French oak; proportionate, medium weight, bright- know that things like employing harsh fertilizers, which sterilize the ened by fresh, natural tasting acidity. v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v106 v{ THE SOMMv JOURNALv v } A UGUST/SEPv vTEMBER v 2016 v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v Somm Journal Aug/Sept_102-148.indd 106 7/27/16 2:46 PM lights or night cooling units, this contributes Adds Vukmanic Lopez, “SIP was and most likely better wines. Newer, more directly to wine quality and sales.” designed to set a higher bar of sustain- efficient approaches to controlling weeds ability. There is a list of prohibited, do-not- or retaining labor are all part of sustain- SIP Sense and Sensibility use materials, of high-risk pesticides and ing the profitability of a company and its Program Manager Beth Vukmanic Lopez herbicides, but we find that SIP managers employees. Conserving native landscapes started with SIP Certified in 2009, one year are even more motivated by the idea that for wildlife can be essential to pest con- after the introduction of SIP’s pilot program. this is the right thing to do, despite the trol while contributing to relations with She tells us, “The foundation of the organi- time and effort it takes to fill out a 100- surrounding communities—all the things zation goes back to 1994 with the forma- page check-list, subject to inspection. For necessary to sustain a wine grape grow- tion of the Vineyard Team, a 501c3 non- instance, tracking water usage or check- ing business in the longer term. profit umbrella group of farmers who were ing well pump efficiency is simply good “The hallmark of SIP is how it goes interested in learning more about farming business practice. Pro-active mildew and beyond organic programs to include things sustainably. The group completed their first disease management results in healthy like biodiversity, quality of life, and latest self-assessment book, based upon a 1,000- grapes of higher quality, which earn you technology. And this year we are adding SIP v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v pointv system, v which v proved v very v popular.” v vpoints vand maybev higherv vgrape vprices, vCertified v certificationv v for v winery vfacilities.” v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v Ancient Peaks PHOTO COURTESY OF ANCIENT PEAKS

Ancient Peaks co-owner Doug Filipponi and Director of Winemaking Mike Sinor shared the story of their 800-acre Margarita Vineyard, located in the southernmost and coolest pocket of Paso Robles (the Santa Margarita AVA), just 14 miles from the coast. The prop- erty, committed to biodiversity, actually totals 14,000 acres—well over 13,000 of the acreage set aside for cattle grazing, hay cropping and conservation of native flora and fauna. Filipponi began by saying, “When my partners [the Rossi and Wittstrom families] and I bought this ranch in 1999, Robert Mondavi Winery was also bidding for it. And so instead, the Mondavis leased the land from us and planted grapes. We expected it to be a 35-year relationship, but it lasted only until 2004. Subsequently, we bought back the lease from Constellation Brands, and we have been farming and producing wine from it ever since.” Ancient Peaks team: Owner Doug Filipponi, VP of Operations Adds Sinor, “From the beginning, the Mondavis planned the Amanda Wittstrom Higgins, Owner Karl Wittstrom, Director of entire Margarita Vineyard for sustainability because they saw that Winemaking Mike Sinor and Owner Rob Rossi. this place—with its amazing range of raised ancient seabed, shale, granitic, rocky alluvium as well as volcanic soils—was special, and Ancient Peaks 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Margarita needed to be kept that way. There was to be no removal of living Ranch–Paso Robles—Deep, dark purplish ruby; compact blackcur- oak trees, no rerouting of waterways, no plowing up or reshaping rant/berry aroma with a dollop of black cherry, tinged with star anise- of entire hills. There would be preservation of indigenous plants, like Asian spice and chalky mineral notes; medium-full, velvety and and re-seeding of native grasses, to complement what row crops fluid with rounded tannin; the dense fruit fleshed out with a chalky and owl boxes usually do, to harbor beneficial insects, birds and mineral feel, and a shake of bitter chocolate/cocoa power. other wildlife. “In the early 2000s, new thoughts on the usage or complete Ancient Peaks 2013 Oyster Ridge, Santa Margarita avoidance of soft chemistries were being tried out. In Margarita, Ranch–Paso Robles vineyard blocks were designed around separations and setbacks 75% Cabernet Sauvignon/15% Syrah/5% Petite Sirah/5% from creeks, with four distinctive wildlife corridors so that natu- Malbec ral wildlife—lions, deer, bears, etc.—can continue on foot-paths From the Margarita Vineyard’s section of uplifted unobstructed. Make no mistake, though, this approach to vineyard ancient seabed—a highly calcareous, visibly white oyster planning originated as part of the Mondavis’ overall quality initiative. shell outcropping—yielding a vivid, concentrated multi- The goal was to grow special wines. But the key part of it was faceted profile (raspberry, blueberry, violet, mineral), sustainability, which has become a way of life throughout much of the defty sculpted into svelte, layered, thick and seamlessly Central Coast.” knit sensations on the palate. v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v{ SOMvM journal.comv v } 107 v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v Somm Journal Aug/Sept_102-148.indd 107 7/27/16 2:46 PM Niven Family Estates Chamisal Vineyards

In Edna Valley’s Niven Family Estates we boarded Vineyard Manager Chamisal Vineyards Winemaker Fintan du Fresne tells us Scott William’s truck with proprietor John Niven to drive through frankly, “SIP practices do not sharpen specific sensory aspects the sloping blocks of their Paragon Vineyard. With a total of 1,700 of our wines, but we’re a little different from other Edna Valley

acres to manage, they talked PHOTO COURTESY OF NIVEN FAMILY ESTATES estates in that we use only native yeast and native ML in our

about how SIP Certified has estate wines. That’s why it’s PHOTO: RANDY CAPAROSO enabled them to meet their critical to farm the way we dual objectives of farming do, with no herbicides or responsibly and increasing synthetic fertilizers. It’s our grape and wine quality. terroir—the fact that Edna “Sustainability can be Valley has the longest and sexy,” says Niven, “especially coolest growing season on in San Luis Obispo, which the coast—as well as things I would estimate to be at like choice of rootstock least 90% SIP Certified.Niven Family Vineyard Manager and vine management that Chamisal Vineyards Assistant What we like about SIP is Scott Williams. give our wines the intensity Winemaker Mike Callahan with that it is extremely progres- and brightness typifying Chardonnay. sive in lending itself to the latest tools helping us to become more Edna Valley, but SIP practices help us get there.” sustainable.” Chamisal Assistant Winemaker Mike Callahan adds, Some of the details proffered by Williams: “Over the past two “Sustainability has become integrated into our core values. It’s years we have been ridding ourselves completely of soft herbicides an ‘efficiency’ thing—don’t do unnecessary things, don’t use like Roundup, which compromises soil quality. Hand-tilling is not the water you don’t have, turn off the lights when you leave a answer, since we don’t have the people for that. So now we make barrel room, recycle 100% of your waste-water. A lot of these use of a small fleet of Clemens tractors to do mechanical tilling things, you do because it’s the right thing. under the vines, which also contributes organic matter to the soil. “But while sustainable practices go hand in hand with a “Water is another big issue in San Luis Obispo. Use of Tule moni- hands-off approach to and winemaking, it can also tors [sensor devices installed atop trellises] to track evapotranspira- contribute to quality in an indirect way. By dropping the use tion lets you physically measure water usage and needs of each vine of herbicides and going to a Clemens hoe-plow, for instance, in every block, giving you a more precise idea of when to irrigate, or we steadily build healthier organic material into the soil. As the when to stress. You conserve water, but by implementing stress you result, the soil pH in certain blocks has steadily fallen, which can also better control fruit sizing—higher skin-to-juice ratios, which translates to higher acid in the grapes. This enhances the hands- directly effects flavor, phenolics, acidity, etc. The impact on quality is off approach in the winery—with more balanced grapes, it is tremendous.” easier to produce wine without having to adjust acid or add “Another factor is choice of grapes,” says Niven. “We recently nutrients. You get healthier spontaneous fermentations and, in increased our plantings of Albariño to 50 acres, which seems tailor- the end, wines closer to our style. made for SLO’s cool coastal climate.” Williams adds: “Albariño does not require a lot of manipulation. Its canopy and fruit seem to want Chamisal 2013 Chamise Chardonnay, Edna Valley to naturally grow in optimal balance—unlike Syrah and Grüner Named for chamise, the woody, sage-like wild chaparral Veltliner, which require aggressive thinning, leafing, more hedging and growing on the hillsides around the Chamisal estate. A densely passes. Neither does Albariño require as much water—by compari- textured yet admirably restrained style of the that son, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, in the same soil, consume twice as eschews the tropical fruitiness of typical California Chardonnay much water. If sustainability means having the right grape in the right (including those of Edna Valley); instead, a nose of freshly risen place, Albariño is as sustainable as it gets.” dough filled with anglaise, a tangerine/citrus and sage-like minerality; packed onto a moderate frame (13.5% alcohol) Tangent 2014 Sauvignon Blanc, Paragon Vineyard, Edna fashioned with a feel of silk, viscosity, and white meat of Valley game bird. From 42-year-old heritage vines—a bracingly tart yet meaty, sleek, contemporary take on the varietal; pungent Chamisal 2013 Morrito Pinot Noir, Edna Valley with citrus, mineral, honeyed melon and leafy pyrazine. Single-vineyard bottling from the estate’s higher slope, with shallow, rocky, calcareous Chamise Shaley Loam, Tangent 2014 Albariño, Paragon Vineyard, Edna making a huge impact on the wine—deep, dark, dense Valley and plummy, yet velvety with brightly perfumed cran- Steely-tart while bursting at the seams with lavish white berry/cherry fruit supported by moderate tannin and peach, lychee, white pepper and palate scrubbing mineral, natural, freshening acidity. almost briny sensations. v

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Joshua Klapper—a former sommelier who founded his La “How do I define sustainability?” asks Sabrine Rodems, Winemaker of Fenêtre and Timbre brands with his partner Alex Katz eleven Santa Lucia Highlands’ Wrath Wines. “Like the Prime Directive in Star Trek: years ago—brings a very specific agenda to his winemak- Don’t mess with anything, but don’t lose track of it. SIP is different from

ing: picking grapes at the lowest sugars possible to produce organic programs in that its approach is PHOTOCOURTESYOF WRATH WINES

moderate alcohol PHOTO: RANDY CAPAROSO holistic. We never make wine in a vacuum wines with maximum anyway—everything we do affects the food compatibility. outcome, especially in the vineyard. Steve Standing in a block McIntyre does our farming for us, and I in Santa Maria Valley’s agree with his approach of minimizing Presqu’ile Vineyard, passes and not tilling at all. To do that, you Klapper told us, “It’s might make use of organic herbicides or not so much a phi- pyrethrins for pest control, but the ideal losophy of lower alco- of Prime Directive is to not utilize any- hol; it’s also because I Joshua Klapper of TimbreWinery thing that messes with the soil. The more really think wines like and La Fenêtre with Presqu’ile you allow it to remain in its natural state, this tend to express Vineyards Pinot Noir. the more you allow grapes to express more terroir. We first themselves naturally.” Sabrine Rodems is Winemaker became interested in SIP Certified when we started work- McIntyre—who farms Wrath’s estate at Wrath Wines. ing with Hilliard Bruce Vineyard a few years ago. We’d also planting, San Saba Vineyard, while also been working with Presq’ile as well as Bien Nacido, both SIP widely respected for his own McIntyre Vineyard—elaborates on this Certified, and it became apparent that there is a correlation less-is-more approach to sustainable farming: “Our non-till permanent between sustainably farmed vines and terroir-expressive cover crop system is an important component to our terroir, which I fruit, and SIP has set the industry standard for that. define as everything we can’t control. It provides a permanent home for “So now, by focusing on SIP Certified vineyards, we feel our mycrorrhyzal fungi and beneficial bacteria, which facilitate the uptake we’re more likely to get the kind of wine we’re shooting of important minerals and micronutrients.” Speaking of how permanent for—lower alcohol, higher acid, food friendliness—at the cover cropping also helps to meet the challenge of Santa Lucia Highlands’ lower sugars we want. In Bien Nacido, for instance, we find extreme winds, which frequently shut down vines half-way through sum- an Old World charm, some funk and even weirdness, with mer days, McIntyre adds, “Permanent covers also increases ambient air floral, spicy or herbaceous qualities, sometimes so nuanced temperatures in the vine row during spring, which accelerates the growth that the uniqueness can be lost on a lot of Pinot Noir lovers. of the vines early in the season.” “Then when we get into Santa Maria vineyards on the west Rodem talks more about her Prime Directive: “We source from eight side—Presqu’ile, Dierberg or Solomon Hills—we get slightly vineyards to produce 26 different wines. Six of those vineyards are SIP denser qualities, darker fruit, more weight, often deeper spice Certified because it makes sense in this environment. The goal of our complexity. When you bring in fruit with those enhanced winemaking is always to let the vineyards to the talking. I wouldn’t describe qualities, this allow you to do a little more whole cluster fer- our approach as minimalist, but sustainability tends to take you there. The mentation, which adds more power or grip to our style, which end-result is that our San Saba Pinot Noir tastes like a San Saba Pinot otherwise would have a tendency to be very understated.” Noir—dark, structured, spicy. Whereas our Boekenoogen Vineyard Pinot Noir, coming from a less wind-stressed site a good 500 feet higher in Timbre 2013 The Headliner Pinot Noir, Presqu’ile elevation in shallower, rockier soil, has more of a floral, luscious, Popsicle- Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley stick fruit, which is what we like about Boekenoogen.” While a little fuller than the typical house style (13.9% alcohol), still fashioned with a svelte, fluid, finesseful Wrath 2013 Pinot Noir, Boekenoogen Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands feel, notable crispness and moderate tannin perme- Pinots like this remind you why Santa Lucia Highlands wines are ated with mildly earthy, plummy/raspberry per- such show-stoppers: “Opulence” is an appropriate word, and so is fumed fruit—subdued by apparent design—with “explosion” of fruit falling on the dark side, while the feel on the herby/leafy underpinnings and a touch of boot palate is full, phenolic, yet balanced, fresh, vibrant with natural acidity. leather coming out in the palate. Wrath 2013 Pinot Noir, San Saba Vineyard, Monterey Timbre 2013 Lead Vocals Old Vines Pinot Noir, Also a lavish, voluminous style of dark berry and splash of black Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley cherry, toasty spice and sprigs of leafy greens; the multiple sensa- Transparently pigmented, slender, feminine tions couched in a luxurious texture sharpened by heightened frame, with understated yet bright clarity of acidity, adding levity to the palate despite a voluminous (14.7% cherry/berry perfume tinged with faintly herby, alcohol) feel. sweet kitchen herb spices. v

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