worldnomads.com Welcome Food, Music Music Food, & Culture Discoveries

Venture beyond the & Nature beaches to explore Wildlife volcanoes, swim with whale sharks, dance at a 400-year-old festival, and taste your way Adventure around the islands. to Know Need

CARIBBEAN Safety Travel Where Nomads Go

2 1 worldnomads.com

World Nomads’ purpose is to challenge Contents you to harness your curiosity, be brave WELCOME WELCOME 3 enough to find your own journey, and to Getty Images / Galen Rowell Essential Caribbean 4 gain a richer understanding of yourself, Putting together this guide starts with defining exactly what the others, and the world. Caribbean is. Some would classify it as the islands and nations FOOD, MUSIC & CULTURE 6 surrounded by or bordering the Caribbean Sea. We chose a Tasting My Way Around the Caribbean 8 worldnomads.com broader definition, including places such as The Bahamas, Beyond Reggae: The that aren’t technically in the Caribbean, but share its culture Welcome Caribbean’s New Grooves 12 and character. Indo-Caribbean Culture However you demarcate it, the Caribbean can’t be easily in Trinidad and Tobago 16 summed up. With influences from around the world and Native Boat Regattas topography that ranges from frosty mountain peaks to dense Food, Music Music Food, in The Bahamas 20 rainforest, it’s much more multifaceted than its picture-postcard & Culture 3 Museums Worth a Special Trip 22 reputation might suggest. We can’t possibly cover it all in a A Nomad’s Story: Meeting My handful of pages, and we aren’t going to try. Past at Bermuda Cup Match 26 Think of this guide as a series of windows into a Caribbean you Respect & Renewal: Curaçao’s Art 30 never knew existed – from Curaçao’s contemporary art scene, to Discoveries DISCOVERIES 32 an effervescent coral reef in Dominica, to a Hindu festival of lights Sint Maarten on a Shoestring 34 in Trinidad and Tobago. Saba, an Island Packed We’ve also included a useful Travel Safety Guide to help With Character(s) 36 you navigate the region safely and bravely. So, discover the Barbuda’s Road to Recovery 40 Caribbean, World Nomads style! & Nature Wildlife Wildlife WILDLIFE & NATURE 42 The Hidden Dominican Republic 44

St. Maarten Hog Heaven in Honduras 48 Virgin Islands Antigua & Barbuda ADVENTURE 52 Nevis Adventure

Keeping the America’s Cup Spirit Montserrat Guadeloupe Alive on Sint Maarten 54 Frigate birds, Barbuda The Bahamas La Soufrière: Hiking Dominica St. Vincent’s Volcano 56 Turks & The Nature Island: 4 Eco- TRAVEL SAFETY 74 Caicos Martinique Cuba Adventures On Dominica 60 to Know Passports, Visas & Currency 75 Dominican St. Lucia Need Republic Plymouth, the Caribbean 10 Travel Safety Tips 76 Capital Closed to the Public 62 St. Vincent Travel Cons to Avoid 79 Barbados Jamaica Haiti Puerto Law & Crime 80 Rico NEED TO KNOW 66 Grenada Climate & Weather 67 Health & Hygiene 83 Honduras Safety Travel Responsible Travel 68 Essential Insurance Tips 84 Nicaragua Curaçao Sea Turtle Conservation Tips 70 Bonaire

Getting Around 71 Our Contributors 86 Trinidad & Tobago Festival Calendar 72 Get a Quote 88 Panama 2 3 worldnomads.com

SEEK EXPERIENCES Getty Images / Adam Filipowicz

ESSENTIAL Welcome CARIBBEAN Don’t miss out on these one-of-a-kind destinations, Food, Music Music Food,

experiences, and adventures. & Culture

Plant coral in Bonaire Discoveries

Join revelers at Trinidad’s exuberant Holi festival

Race America’s Cup Swim with whale sharks & Nature

Getty Images / Teacherdad48 in Honduras

yachts in St. Maarten Wildlife

Climb an active volcano on St. Enrique A Sanabria / Flickr

Vincent Foden Getty Images / Stephanie

Adventure Reef Renewal Foundation Bonaire / RRFB Renewal Reef

Sample local specialties Learn to bomba dance

everywhere in Puerto Rico Grandadam Harding / Sylvain Robert Friscione Getty Images / Rodrigo

Watch a regatta of to Know

hand-built boats in Need The Bahamas

Getty Images / Derek Galon Travel Safety Travel

Explore a Rappel down modern-day a waterfall in Pompeii in Alexandre Lefebvre / Flickr Creative Commons Lefebvre Alexandre Getty Images / Michael Melford Dominica Getty Images / rustyl3599

Montserrat Minimalists / Flickr Creative Commons Venture

4 5 worldnomads.com Sandor Weisz / Flickr Creative Commons Sandor Weisz Welcome Food, Music Music Food, & Culture Discoveries & Nature Wildlife Wildlife Adventure

Undisturbed by outsiders until the 15th century, the Caribbean has been indelibly marked by European to Know

colonists, the African slave Need FOOD, MUSIC trade, and the importation of migrant workers from Asia and Indonesia. There’s no denying

the darkness of some parts of Safety Travel & CULTURE its history, but what’s emerged is a crossroads of cultures as rich, diverse, and vibrant as Bomba and drums anywhere on earth.

6 7 worldnomads.com

SEEK EXPERIENCES

Tasting My Way Flickr / Creative Commons Meng He Around the Caribbean

Food here is as varied as the region itself, combining local Welcome produce, spices, and seafood with influences from around the world. Audrey Gillan visits three islands, discovering three very different food cultures. Food, Music Music Food, & Culture

Barbados deftly fries fish and fires them onto buns, Through a window hatch at the front of topping each with salad. The fish is soft, a brightly painted wooden shack, Cuz sweet, and so moreish I get back in line hands me a fish cutter, his face breaking for seconds.

into a giant smile. I’ve been waiting here, Eating out in Barbados can be expensive Discoveries near Pebbles Beach in Barbados, the – the west coast of the island is dotted easternmost island of the Lesser Antilles, with wallet-busting fine-dining restaurants for one of its most famous sandwiches – – but when you seek out the local fare, cutters – a salt-bread roll filled with fried you’ll find gems like Cuz’s. Food stalls and fish seasoned with Bajan spices. These vans serving hot lunches out of their back are typically allspice, onion powder, doors cluster in beach car parks and “pon & Nature chilies, thyme, parsley, nutmeg, clove, de roadside”: fried chicken or baked fish, Wildlife and black pepper. accompanied by macaroni pie – known Castries Market, Cuz’s father, Cuz senior, began the as just “pie”; it’s made with long tubes of St. Lucia business almost seven decades ago, and macaroni, mixed with cheese, evaporated the family still sells around 500 cutters a milk, Bajan spices, and hot sauce, all of it

day. Pointing to a stack of rolls, Cuz says, baked until crisp. These are cooked daily Adventure “When they’re done, I’m done; I pack up in homes across the island, loaded into a long queue at Uncle George Fish Net St. Lucia and go.” Inside, a radio blares and two silver chafing dishes, and driven out to Grill, where the eponymous Uncle George, There’s nutmeg and cinnamon, soursop, Improve your writing, large pans keep the oil sizzling as Cuz meet demand. tongs in one hand, spatula in the other, sugar apples, limes, plantains – even photography, Stop by the wet markets in Bridgetown, flips tuna, swordfish, lobster, shrimp, and cow’s milk in recycled glass bottles, and videos Oistins, or Speightstown to see the “dolphin” (mahi mahi). all piled on top of wooden stalls. It’s a with Create abundant varieties of fish caught not far Or take your own, self-guided local food Saturday morning at Castries Market in St.

The stallholder to Know

from shore: marlin, mahi mahi, and the tour by hopping on one of the souped-up Lucia, about 110mi (180km) northwest of Need ubiquitous flying fish, which shimmer when is trying to vans (ZR buses) that pump out reggae Barbados, and chef Craig Jones – a big,

they swim in shoals and break the surface tempt the big, music and beep their horns at potential white, Welsh Rastafarian – and I are picking of the water. Upstairs at bustling Cheapside white, Welsh passengers on the sidewalk. Costing $1 US our way around large, muddy puddles vegetable market you’ll discover tiny, a ride, they’re an ideal way to skip from rum amidst a cacophony of cries and Creole hole-in-the-wall food stalls that fry doughy Rastafarian shop to rum shop, sipping rum punch while sales pitches. Safety Travel fish cakes made from salt fish, flour, herbs, cook: “Look at you try Barbados’ national dish: flying fish I point quizzically to a large root and spices. these dasheen, and cou cou ­(cornmeal and okra). vegetable, but before Jones can answer, On a Friday night, head to Oistin’s Friday In Barbados, “having a lime” is to party the stallholder is trying to tempt him: “Look Mangoes at Night Fish Fry for seafood, rum, beer, Ras, beautiful and have a good time, and zipping around at these dasheen, Ras, beautiful dasheen”. Castries Market Heather Cowper / Flickr Creative Commons dominoes, and dancing. There’s always dasheen”. on “reggae buses” is just that. I am still puzzled, so Jones – who has been

8 9 worldnomads.com

SEEK EXPERIENCES

On the tables at Sunshine’s restaurant Ocean Lab on Pinney’s Beach are bottles of Nevis Hot Craft Beer Ocean Lab Pepper Sauce. I discover they’re made by Llewellyn Clarke, an English chef who returned to his family’s Nevis roots to cook in a hotel, and set up a sideline making

what I believe to be one of the finest hot Welcome Heather Cowper / Flickr Creative Commons sauces in the Caribbean. In his kitchen in Rawlins Village, known as the island’s breadbasket because of its abundance of fruit and fresh produce, the smell of sweet but punchy Scotch bonnet Food, Music Music Food,

chilis fills the air as he boils the fiery red & Culture peppers down with vinegar, salt, sugar, UNFORGETTABLE thyme and garlic. “My bottles are filled with love and sunshine. I don’t do the final Connecting Through bottling until I think the sauce has matured Castries Market, Castries Market, enough – I am always tasting it, it is just Craft Beer St. Lucia

St. Lucia Heather Cowper / Flickr Creative Commons like making wine. There’s a point in your Before visiting in 2019, I hadn’t visited Puerto Rico (PR) in 14 Discoveries memory where you know what something years, before the term “craft beer” entered the lexicon of anyone should taste like,” he explains. outside the savviest of mainland American connoisseurs. True, I’d cooking on St. Lucia for two decades now – cow heel soup, thick in texture from split The national dish of Nevis is fried fish snuck the occasional sip of Cuba Libre during my family’s annual explains, “Dasheen is like a dry potato, and peas and okra – loved across the island, it and johnny cakes, originally derived from vacations, taken to nurture friendships forged in 1950, when my Caucasian grandparents began bringing their children down it becomes sticky when you cook it.” All often has dasheen or green fig added in. the word “journey”, possibly because the every year for a winter escape. But in 2005, I had yet to imagine around us is the sweet smell of mangoes, The cooks offer me a rum punch to wash balls of slightly sweet, crisp-fried dough are I’d become a professional beer writer, and options for local & Nature Wildlife Wildlife laid in vast piles, all different shapes, sizes, down my meal. I take a big gulp – realizing easily portable. Often, johnny cakes will be cerveza consisted of little more than mass-produced Medalla. and hues. “There are 30 to 40 different too late it’s more firewater than cocktail; served at breakfast with stewed saltfish, varieties of mangoes,” Jones tells me. it leaves me choking and laughing. My St. tomatoes, lettuce, and hard-boiled eggs. When a work trip called me to return, I sought out several of PR’s dozen-or-so artisanal breweries, plus bar owners and “There’s mango Austin, which is great, but Lucian friend Ulrich Augustin snorts: “It is Also beloved is goat water – more like a homebrewers. I learned that independent breweries like Ocean mango Julie is the sweetest and has the more of a sipping drink”. cross between a soup and a stew – with Lab, Pura Vida, FOK, and REBL are blossoming from the beaches

best texture and taste.” hints of clove, black pepper, thyme, and to the mountains. In San Juan, publicans are pouring them all. Adventure But the most prolific fruit in St. Lucia Nevis Scotch bonnet in the sauce, cooked low is the banana. Like almost everything Sunshine is holding two spiny lobsters in and slow until the goat is meltingly soft. The geographic penetration surprised me. But true shock came grown on this island – it’s a similar story both hands and asking if I’d like one – of After only a few mouthfuls, I need a bottle from witnessing the prevalence of craft brewers I’ve devoted my career to writing about. across almost all of the Caribbean – it was course I would. Freshly caught in the of Carib beer, because goat water, like so imported during colonialist slave-owning waters just off Nevis, a small island near many things in Nevis, has a bit of a kick. One afternoon, stopping for lunch in what used to be barely times, replacing sugar cane as the cash the northern end of the Lesser Antilles, passable jungle, I literally gasped when I spotted a coffee shop

I take a to Know

crop. It features in the confusingly named the lobster is grilled and served with covered in decorative signs for breweries like Bell’s, Cigar City, Need national dish, green fig and saltfish: green big gulp – butter and hot sauce. I must have it with and North Coast. Two decades ago, I doubt this area had running water. Now it has American craft beer. fig is really just green banana. Full of iron, realizing too his famous Killer Bee, says Sunshine (real it’s boiled to make it more digestible and late it’s more name Llewellyn Caines: “My grandmother And at La Taberna Boricua in San Juan, a keg poured Founders served with saltfish (salted white fish, called me Sunshine from the day I was Canadian Breakfast Stout, a Michigan beer so rare I’ve never seen often cod). firewater born, because I smiled and didn’t stop”). it on draught. Words evaded me when the bartender poured me Safety Travel It’s at roadside pitstop Red Truck that I than cocktail; It’s a rum-based, spicy cocktail with some an entire pint. find true St. Lucian cooking: stewed pork kicks so secret he’d have to “kill me” if he it leaves me I’ve carried a lot of guilt about neglecting my life-long Puerto cooked in its own juices (no water), cloves, told me what they were. He boasts, “It’s so choking and Fresh fish Rican friends, especially after Hurricane Maria. But with this new onion, chives, and seasonal peppers. good, people come over from St. Kitts just market in community joining my present with my past, I feel my sentimental

Barbados Getty Images / Cultura/Lindsay Upson There’s black pudding and a deep-flavored laughing to drink it.” homeland has embraced me anew. Tara Nurin

10 11 worldnomads.com Trumpet player, Havana SEEK EXPERIENCES Getty Images / Bim

BEYOND REGGAE:

THE Welcome Food, Music Music Food, CARIBBEAN’S & Culture NEW GROOVES

The region may be famous for calypso and reggae, but the music scene Discoveries doesn’t stop there. Talia Wooldridge shares how the islands have put their own spin on jazz, electronic music, and dancehall beats.

he islands of the Caribbean have draws since their inception. But starting & Nature proudly claimed ownership of their in the 1980s, jazz, electronic music, and Wildlife Tnative styles of music, flavored with Jamaican gospel dancehall have also North American and European influences. entered into the Caribbean music circuit. Jamaican ska, reggae and dancehall, Trinidadian calypso and soca, as well as Caribbean jazz

French-Caribbean’s cadence and zouk, In 2006, I was working at my aunt’s Adventure have all been major exports and festival restaurant in Nevis. I had just graduated But I must have been onto something. exposed to jazz music when his son from music school, and was keen to utilize Less than a decade later, the Nevis Blues attended university in North America. my new skills and contacts. While getting to Festival debuted in April 2015 and lasted Apparently Tappin’s Barbadian manager, know the local bar and restaurant owners, two years, until another hurricane hit in Scofield Pilgrim, then introduced many it struck me that the island was ripe for a 2018. Now, blues and jazz performances Trinidadians to jazz when he lived in Port blues and jazz festival, as it attracted a are scattered throughout the island at of Spain, Trinidad. And in turn, Trinidadian to Know

traveler demographic I felt would enjoy various resorts and hotels. Gene Lawrence later became chairman of Need world-renowned artists in a tropical But as early as the 1980s, jazz music St. Lucia’s jazz society.

setting. Many scoffed at my youthful idea, started to gain popularity throughout In 1986, Aruba’s Jazz and Latin Music As early as reminding me that St. Lucia already had the Caribbean. The softening of intra- Festival debuted, running until 2001. It was the 1980s, a world-renowned jazz festival, but some Caribbean musical barriers allowed an the Caribbean’s inaugural jazz festival. jazz music encouraged me to pursue it. influx of musical styles to infiltrate the St. Lucia’s Jazz Festival followed in 1992. Safety Travel started to gain Sadly, Nevis was hit by a hurricane in region through global radio stations, Paxton Baker, a young American who popularity 2008, knocking out the Four Seasons, one visitors, and youth who attended college would go on to become a philanthropist, Jazz pianist Monty of the main hotels on the small island and a abroad and brought new styles of music organized and booked award-winning Alexander at the 2014 Saint throughout major draw for tourist dollars. I shelved my back home. Such is the case with Arturo international talent for both festivals,

Lucia Jazz & Arts Festival Getty Images / Earl Gib son III/WireImage the Caribbean idea and pursued work in North America. Tappin, a Barbadian saxophonist first as well as Trinidad’s Pan Jazz Festival,

12 13 worldnomads.com

SEEK EXPERIENCES

a dream), Prodigal Son, Lt. Stichie, and Kevin Smith are a few of the artists to emerge.

Getty Images / Gary Miller Electronic music in the Caribbean Getty Images / Shelby Soblick Given the French and Dutch Caribbean ties

to the European club scene, and Rihanna Welcome hailing from Barbados, it was only a matter of time before the Caribbean became the new host for various underground electronic dance music (EDM) festivals, featuring DJs performing long before the Food, Music Music Food,

genre caught hold. & Culture EDM festivals in the Caribbean started with Aruba’s long-running Love Festival. Its demise in 2014 paved the way for SXM Festival, a boutique music festival featuring international DJs such as Dubfire

and Nina Kravitz that debuted in 2016 Discoveries across the Dutch-French island of St. Martin-Sint Maarten. Given the Dutch ties KAABOO Cayman Festival, to club culture, Sint Maarten already had Cayman Islands a thriving techno scene and nightlife. The festival brought new, international DJs to these clubs. & Nature celebrating the rising popularity of this beautiful outdoor concert with delicious I was fortunate enough to attend the Wildlife Caribbean music genre, which features jerk food, smiling kids, and live music. festival during its first two years. Dreamy jazzy arrangements of popular tunes on When local singer Kevin Smith took the music by DJs Behrouz, Chaim, and the steelpan. mic and began to sing the gospel over The Doctors flowed all afternoon from Lady Saw, Reggae Sumfest, Montego Bay, Jamaica The success of these early jazz festivals dancehall riddims, I did a triple-take; I had a treetop booth, overlooking infinity

inspired 30 more annual festivals never heard dancehall praise God before! pools hugged by the thumping dance Adventure throughout the Caribbean by the mid- Gospel dancehall emerged in the early floor. Festival goers splashed about 90s, along with an influx of jazz clubs 1990s, around the time the original down in sunglasses and on unicorn floaties. growing Tmrw.Tday Festival, featuring a scattered throughout the islands. Many an’ dutty dancehall was making a global The intimate setting was pure bliss, blend of electronic music and a Saturday festivals eventually merged to soul, pop, impact in music. With a similar reaction refreshingly free of bros, muscle t-shirts, night reggae showcase that brings out R&B, and reggae headliners, including to the “rude boys” of early reggae music, and obnoxious attitudes. many locals. Traditionally, electronic the late Amy Winehouse. But strictly many church-going Jamaicans could not In April 2018, Vujaday Festival arrived in music in Jamaica has been heard in its

Given the to Know

jazz-programmed festivals are still running embrace dancehall’s explicit lyrics and Barbados with a sunrise party, featuring native genres: dancehall and dub music. Need in Haiti, Barbados, Havana (Cuba), and raunchy dance moves. headliner Moses, over the breathtaking Lee “Scratch” Perry was an innovator and popularity of gospel Bermuda; the latter two run every two Given the popularity of gospel pop cliff of Bathsheba Beach, and YookO’s pioneer in dub music due to his remixing, years. Year-round, Havana hosts amazing music in Jamaica since the 1980s, gospel album release aboard the pirate ship, The studio techniques, and production style. pop music jazz at various hotspots around the city, dancehall was a natural evolution as a Jolly Roger, where partiers swung out on Dub, in turn, inspired electronic music in Jamaica Travel Safety Travel including Jazz Club, La Zorra y el Cuervo, Find cleaner, family-friendly (and Christian) spin a rope into the Caribbean waters over genre dubstep. since the and Miramar Jazz. inspiration on an otherwise popular dance genre. lush electronic music beats. When the To some purists, Jamaica rivals Germany 1980s, gospel for your next Gospel reggae would quickly become festival isn’t running, electronic music fans for creating new synthesized genres. In adventure dancehall Gospel dancehall with Explore interchangeable with the genre. Lady Saw, flock to the sultry Nikki Beach bar, with its any case, the Caribbean influence on When I visited Kingston in 2010, the Papa San, Goddy Goddy, DJ Nicholas signature orange lounges and splash pool. these music styles can’t be denied – and was a natural Jamaica Family Festival was on. It was a (who converted to singing the gospel after Jamaica also started the small but the music world is much richer as a result. evolution

14 15 worldnomads.com

LEARN SOMETHING NEW

INDO-CARIBBEAN CULTURE: TRINIDAD Welcome Food, Music Music Food, & TOBAGO & Culture Migrants from India are a major portion of T&T’s population – and a huge and colorful influence on its food, festivals, and daily life.

Trinidad native Vernon Ramesar shares his experiences. Discoveries

hen I travel and tell people I’m Historical legacy from Trinidad and Tobago, it When slavery here ended in the early W often results in blank stares. 19th century, the British turned to India as Sometimes people are genuinely unaware a ready-made source of cheap labor for & Nature Phagwa celebrations, Wildlife the island nation exists. Another reason, the sugar and cocoa plantations. About Tunapuna, Trinidad though rarely voiced, is probably because 150,000 indentured laborers arrived in Getty Images / Sean Drakes/LatinContent I’m obviously of South Asian rather than Trinidad from India between 1845 and African descent. 1917. Most chose to stay on after their My Indo-Caribbean background isn’t at indentureship period was over, and that hear on the evening television news. A Trinis enjoy an astonishing choice of

all unusual. About 40% of the population decision has shaped Trinidad ever since. glance at the news will also show that T&T foods – often on the same plate – and Adventure of Trinidad and Tobago is of Indian Trinidad and Tobago is a two-island state still votes mainly along racial lines, with Indian food plays a prominent role. descent, which may come as a surprise to just 7mi (11km) off the coast of Venezuela, While one party drawing its main support from “Doubles” is something of a national those unfamiliar with the country’s British at the southernmost tip of the Caribbean politics can Indo-Trinidadians and the other from obsession; a street food that can be colonial past. archipelago. Locals usually refer to it sometimes Afro-Trinidadians. either a quick snack or a hearty breakfast as “T&T”, and to themselves as “Trinis”. divide depending on how many you consume. Though the two islands are definitely one Food Curried chickpeas are sandwiched Trinidadians, to Know

country, they couldn’t be more different. While politics can sometimes divide between two flat pieces of fried dough Need Trinidad is the larger of the two islands food always Trinidadians, food always unites them. called baras (thus the name “doubles”)

and home to more than 90% of the unites them. There’s a Trinidad expression “better belly and served on a piece of paper with country’s population. It’s where almost all There’s a buss than good food waste”, meaning it’s whatever savory sauces are on offer. of the Indian migrants, including my great- Trinidad better to eat till your stomach explodes Popular doubles vendors have a throng of Travel Safety Travel Getty Images / Vince Talotta/Toronto Star Getty Images / Vince Talotta/Toronto great-grandfather, settled. expression than leave delicious food behind. Though customers standing around their cart. The historical legacy of Indo-Trinidadians I have no evidence of ruptured stomachs As with most things, there are always can be seen in place names such as “better belly as a result of this advice, I can attest to the attempts to improve on perfection. In Barrackpore, Fyzabad, Patna Village, and buss than Trinidadian love of food. We sing songs recent years, some restaurants have Calcutta Settlement. It’s in the faces that good food about it, post memes about it, and most of dreamt up “chicken doubles” and “shrimp Melo's Kitchen, Trinidad you see on the street and the names you waste” all we eat it... lots of it. doubles”. Like most locals, I view such

16 17 worldnomads.com

LEARN SOMETHING NEW

Guests sit at communal tables with a large leaf as a plate, and are served a delicious variety of vegetarian dishes. You eat with your hands, and seconds are actively encouraged. Getty Images / StanislavBeloglazov

Festivals Welcome UNFORGETTABLE The Trinidadian love of food is almost matched by our love of a celebration. Though Carnival is the preeminent festival, Maypole Festival Indian celebrations are also an important Every May in Bluefields, a small town on part of the national calendar. Divali, the Nicaragua’s Caribbean coast, the streets Food, Music Music Food,

Hindu festival of lights dedicated to the explode into a month-long celebration & Culture goddess Lakshmi, is by far the most that traces its lineage back 400 years – prominent. Hindus beautify their homes not to Spain, but to Great Britain. and offer pujas in preparation for the night British pirates first touched these shores of Divali. Starting on Divali evening, small in the 17th century, where they met the clay lamps called deyas, filled with coconut indigenous Miskitos. Over the years, former

oil, are lit and placed in and around Hindu African slaves, European settlers, and Discoveries homes throughout the country. Caribbean immigrants formed Nicaragua’s On Divali night, I usually drive through English-speaking Creole people. One of them was my great-grandmother. the villages of Central Trinidad towards the coastal village of Felicity, which is famous On my first night in Bluefields, my cousins Divali festival for its ostentatious Divali lighting displays. took me to a neighborhood block party. The air everywhere along the route is There was a greasy-pole climb, an & Nature abominations with scorn. Real doubles are filled with the sounds of bhajans (hymns). ultra-local beauty pageant, and a dance Wildlife always vegetarian and never fancy. Thousands of twinkling deyas, like fields of competition around the Maypole, a tree hung with streamers and real fruit. Curry is another Indo-Trinidadian staple fallen stars, punctuate the route and create that has become part of the mainstream. a special sort of magic. It’s deeply moving, The Maypole dance was an ancient fertility Trinidad curries have a simpler flavor and a beautiful expression of a faith passed rite in England, but the people of Bluefields have made it all their own. The dizzying profile than their Indian cousins but are down unchanged through the generations. Adventure no less tasty. Curried meat dishes are While Divali is a festival of quiet rhythms are unmistakably African, and it’s sung in English, Miskito, and Spanish. To available throughout the country, often reflection, Phagwa (also called Holi) is a dance Maypole, you have to surrender and accompanied by a wide selection of raucous and fun affair. It’s the Hindu spring let your hips bounce of their own volition. vegetarian sides and usually served with celebration, held at recreation grounds roti (a soft flatbread). When they’re on throughout the country. Participants By day, each neighborhood comparsa, the go, many locals opt for a “wrap roti”: throw colored dye (abir or abeer) in both or troupe, dances in a town-wide parade Thousands to live drummers. On the final night, we to Know

roti, curry, and vegetables folded into the powdered and liquid form at each other, Need gathered for the “tulululu”, wiggling our perfect handheld meal. of twinkling accompanied by traditional chowtal music way in pairs down a tunnel of joined hands.

Like many Indian families, mine converted deyas, like and much laughter. I’ve learned not to try to Christianity more than 100 years ago, fields of to dodge the dye, as it’s futile, and getting But my unforgettable Maypole moment but that doesn’t stop me from accepting fallen stars, messy is the whole point. was at a small party thrown by a family invitations to pujas (Hindu prayers). When it punctuate In 1994, Indian Arrival Day was made a friend. Her granddaughters, four and six, Safety Travel comes to food, all religious lines in Trinidad public holiday in Trinidad and Tobago, to took the floor. Effortlessly, they shook their hips to the Maypole rhythm – a good sign are permanently blurred. Hospitality is an the route commemorate the arrival of the first Indian and create a that this very old festival will have a very integral part of every puja, and the food immigrants in 1845. But in many ways, long life. Lauren Schenckman provided after the ritual is some of the special sort of every day in Trinidad is testament to their Lauren Schenkman Lauren best home cooking available on the island. magic lasting legacy. The Maypole Festival is held throughout May.

18 19 worldnomads.com

CONNECT LOCALLY TRIP NOTES There’s no better way to experience the breathtaking beauty of these semi-tropical waters, no better way of meeting the Bahamian Out Islanders and of Native Boat getting to know their unique, seafaring culture than the regatta. Many will watch from the shore. Others will arrive early, get to know the regatta officials and Venture Minimalists / Flickr Creative Commons Venture the sailors – and perhaps get a spot on one of the Regattas fleet of official boats stationed on the start line. This is the best vantage point.

Luckier still will be those cruising the Bahamas in Welcome in The their own boats. Regatta officials often allow the visitor fleet to moor near the start line, in the very midst of the action. This is the single best way to enjoy the regatta. The event is a visual feast, a Bahamas photographer's dream, and a rare opportunity to experience a centuries-old tradition that is alive and well Food, Music Music Food,

There’s no better way to GETTING THERE & Culture experience the unique culture of Nassau, The Bahamas is served by major US airlines feeding into Florida and leaving from two major The Bahamas than at its annual hubs, Miami and Ft. Lauderdale. Airlines and smaller regatta, where the Out Islanders charter services fly directly into Exuma International Airport from these hubs for approximately US display their seafaring skills in $600 round trip. Schedules run throughout the locally made boats. Jack Reec week. In addition, ferry services and charter boats Discoveries travel from Potters Cay in Nassau direct to Exuma, takes us aboard. 35mi (56km) south of New Providence. The air- conditioned ferry service costs as little as US $50. Charter flights cost around US $200 round trip. BEING THERE n The Bahamas, the sea surrounds and The 635 Cays of the Exumas offer a wide variety of modern, quality accommodations, at least 20 nurtures each gem-like island. There are

with excellent reviews. Most are centered around & Nature Wildlife Wildlife times when it tests a person’s mettle, tries Marsh Harbor. I Sloops at the starting line their soul, and tempers both to produce a hardy breed of sailors who take pride in their power to live in harmony with the powers of the wind and waves. They are There are many characters among the Before the regatta, I gently raised the Family Island Regatta. The annual event

the Out Islanders. Here, seamanship is the Each island boatmen, notably Mark Knowles on Long topic with the regulars at McPhee's Diner. began in 1954 with the intention of keeping Adventure measure of a person. They set out to sea community Island. Mark is the man to beat on the one Contestants gathered in this ramshackle Bahamian boat building and sailing in locally built boats of horseflesh (a strong day above all others that is paramount in collection of huts to eat, drink, and traditions alive. The event has done its local wood ideal for inner boat timbers), takes pride the demonstration of prowess under sail measure up the competition. I was directed job. Mark Knowles learned boatbuilding and heart pine. The tradition was born soon in its own – Race Day. They say he builds the fastest to a man who slept on the settlement from his grandfather and father. He’s typical after The Bahamas were settled. unique craft. sloops in The Bahamas. beach. He had but one arm and one leg. The annual of others who represent generations of I witnessed my first Race Day many years I found him late in the afternoon under a local knowledge. They range event began to Know History of the regatta ago off Mangrove Cay, Andros Island. I casuarina tree and we talked well into night More important still, many younger Need The boatbuilding traditions here are strong. from Bimini loved sailing, but I was more fascinated over a bottle of Mount Gay rum. From him I in 1954 with Bahamians are taking an active interest in

Each island community takes pride in its “bonefishers” by an undercurrent that ran through the learned that there had indeed been some the intention the tradition, indicating that the future is own unique craft. They range from Bimini to Abaco regatta. It was rumored that the islander's “spell casting” in the weeks prior to the of keeping pretty well assured. “bonefishers” to Abaco dinghies to single- knowledge of the winds and waters came race. I was told exactly which sloop would In August 2019, the impact of Hurricane masted sloops and twin-masted schooners. dinghies to to them from an ancient and magical win by using an offshore wind that would Bahamian Dorian on the Abacos, especially Marsh Safety Travel There are few plans for these vessels – the single-masted connection upwelling from their African arise exactly at 3pm. The prediction was boat building Harbor, where boat building was centered construction and hull forms are passed sloops and roots. They called it Scratch. Elsewhere eerily and absolutely accurate. and sailing for many years, put the viability of this down through many generations. In the in the Caribbean it is called Obeah or tradition in question. But the storm has early days the boats shared much with twin-masted Santeria, and its roots are in Nigeria’s The sailors traditions proven to be no match for the ongoing the boat-building traditions of West Africa. schooners Voodoo traditions. Race Day is officially known as the National alive spirit of the regatta.

20 21 worldnomads.com

LEARN SOMETHING NEW

3 MUSEUMS Welcome Food, Music Music Food, WORTH A & Culture SPECIAL TRIP From celebrating the richness of Caribbean culture to reckoning with the Discoveries past, these institutions offer unique takes on the region’s complex heritage.

Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue Together, they’re the heart and soul and Jewish Museum, Curaçao of the island’s small-but-active Jewish Memorial ACTe Museum & Nature Courtesy Memorial ACTe and G. Aricique Courtesy Memorial ACTe A Dutch territory 40mi (65km) north of community. The sandy floor and simple- Wildlife Venezuela, Curaçao’s appeal to Jewish but-elegant baroque interiors serve as travelers is that of a fabulous island escape constant reminders of how a small group of with substance – a rich Jewish history Sephardic-Portuguese Jewish merchants artifacts providing a general overview Memorial ACTe Museum, dating to 1651. That history is readily escaped the Spanish and Portuguese of Jewish life, traditions, and holidays. Guadeloupe

brought to life within Mikve Israel-Emanuel Inquisition in the 16th and 17th centuries Nearly a decade later, it’s been extensively Every now and again, you go somewhere Adventure Synagogue, the oldest continuously and contributed to Curaçao’s cultural and refurbished. A detailed timeline at its that changes you and your world view. The operating congregation in the Western economic growth. entrance puts the island’s Jewish history Memorial ACTe museum in Pointe-a-Pitre, Hemisphere, and adjoining Curaçao On my first trip, in 2010, I arrived just in in context with general world history, while Guadeloupe, is such a place. Long after Jewish Museum. time for Friday night Shabbat services. artifacts from long-established Sephardic my visit, the memory is as fresh as the day Afterwards, the rabbi introduced my and Ashkenazi families humanize the I visited. group to the welcoming, multicultural Jewish role in Curaçao society. It’s the largest museum on the planet to Know

congregants. He dispelled the popular On my second visit, in 2019, my close dedicated to the history of the African Need

Elyse Glickman myth about the temple’s sand-covered friend Renee said that she felt at home slave trade and slavery from the early A detailed 2 floor, chuckling at the romantic notion here in a way she hasn’t in other Jewish 17th century to the present. The 77,000ft of having sand brought in from the Sinai timeline at its communities. When sharing family names (7,154m2) complex, which opened in 2015 The black box Desert. Its actual purpose was to muffle entrance puts and stories from her Sephardic-Caribbean on the site of the former Darboussier housing the footsteps and praying to avoid detection the island’s family tree, the congregants responded sugar factory, is an architectural wonder. permanent Safety Travel from Spanish invaders or pirates – a Jewish history in kind with details of their mixed Jewish The black box housing the permanent legitimate concern when the synagogue heritages. Conversations like these, over exhibition is a treasure trove of exhibition is was consecrated in 1732. in context with challah and coffee, say as much about knowledge. The tiny quartz specks in a treasure In 2010, the museum had a modest but general world Curaçao’s collective pride and Jewish the black granite honor millions of trove of Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue nicely arranged assortment of Jewish history culture as the museum does. Elyse Glickman victims of the slave trade and slavery. knowledge

22 23 worldnomads.com

LEARN SOMETHING NEW UNFORGETTABLE Playing Jouvert at The silver latticework symbolizes new, intertwined beginnings. Trinidad Carnival You could spend days in this museum, Burning sunshine, booming soca music, which was awarded the 2017 Museum and blinged-out parades may be most Prize by the Council of Europe for its major people’s image of a Caribbean carnival, contribution to the knowledge of European but for me, it’s the untamed intensity of

cultural history. It’s part of UNESCO’s “dirty mas”(masquerade): joining a city Welcome Slave Route Project, the global initiative to full of revelers to dance through moonlit promote the healing and harmony of people streets under a coating of mud, body through the shared legacy of slavery. paint, oil, and even melted chocolate. This As fascinating as the façade is, the works orgy of pure, unadulterated bacchanalia is Jouvert, a loose translation of the French inside are powerful and soul-stirring. I jour ouvert (opening of the day), and the Food, Music Music Food,

saw the replica of a slave ship stuffed official start of the Caribbean's biggest & Culture with hundreds of people side by side. I and best Carnival. lifted a chain – once around someone’s neck – that was so heavy it pulled my This pre-dawn ritual begins with a 2am alarm, hot coffee, the first of many rum hand downward. It made my heart sink, shots, and the briefest of outfits, pearly- and brought tears to my eyes. As I walked white and ready for adornment. Outside, around the exhibits, reflecting years of the air crackles with misrule as we meet Discoveries oppression, I felt uncomfortable and our band and receive the Jouvert baptism, Clamencia Alexander, Heritage disturbed. I had never reacted to a museum Museum of Carriacou covering each other top-to-toe with smooth, this way. However, the emotions I felt were Bruce N Meyer purified mud until faces and features cleansing; when truth is acknowledged, disappear in glorious anonymity. there is peace. Sheryl Nance-Nash The music truck growls into action as we he realized it was a canoe made from a

shuffle onto the road, moving together in & Nature Heritage Museum gum tree from the Orinoco River Basin in the chip, chip, chip rhythm of the Jouvert Wildlife of Carriacou, Grenada Venezuela. The interior had been burned Amidst the walk. Arcs of paint fly: red, yellow, blue, The beautiful island of Carriacou, one of and carved with a stone axe. No one knows disarray, and purple splattering me, the tarmac, the seven that makes up the nation of Grenada, who made it or how long it had been buried you can street signs in Pollock-esque style, and polka-dotting the roadside dancers who takes some effort to get to. But it’s worth in the sand. appreciate the leave smudged imprints of a back or bottom

the 90-minute ferry ride from the capital, Upstairs, we found a collection of folk Adventure colorful music, against a pristine white wall. St. George’s, when you discover gems such art by Canute Caliste, a self-taught artist as the Heritage Museum of Carriacou. whose works are in museums around the clothing, and Dawn streaks into the sky as we reach We stumbled upon this museum world, including the Smithsonian. history of the the hallowed, grassy Savannah. We’re the one afternoon while poking around in Caliste, who died in 2005, was also people of first. As we cross the stage, dancing for ourselves to the empty stands, the rising Hillsborough, Carriacou’s tiny main town. a master fiddler and boat builder who Carriacou sun reveals a kaleidoscope of humanity: Located in what we were told is the world's fathered 22 children. One of those is ochre mud, technicolor paint, rich brown to Know

second-oldest cotton gin, it's a cluttered Clamencia Alexander, who manages the chocolate, slick black oil: bodies moving Need little museum, but amidst the disarray, you museum. Each month, she showcases a with snake-hipped intensity, friends

can appreciate the colorful music, clothing, fresh selection of her father’s work from her hugging, everyone laughing and loving the and history of the people of Carriacou. personal collection, which is the world’s sheer pleasure of being alive. While angling for a closer look at a largest of Caliste’s work. And three hours later, scrubbed up and clad Travel Safety Travel big drum used in the Maroon Festival, My husband, an art major, loved Caliste’s in feathered, beaded glory, we’re back on celebrating the island’s indigenous culture, colorful simplicity in capturing the spirit the road in the hot-hot sun for the first day of I literally stumbled on what, at first, looks of Carriacou, and we thanked our good the main Carnival parades. like an old log. Some years earlier, a local fortune to happen upon this charming little Polly Thomas man found this “log” buried in the sand on museum in this out-of-the-way destination. Trinidad’s Carnival is celebrated the Monday and Mount Pleasant Beach. As he dug it up, Diana Lambdin Meyer Getty Images / Blacqbook Tuesday before Ash Wednesday every year.

24 25 worldnomads.com

SHARE STORIES Meeting My Past at Bermuda Cup Match Visiting her father’s homeland for the first time,

Trene Todd finds herself exactly where she belongs. Welcome

ll my life, I’ve longed to stand tall in It’s centered around a heated cricket match journey bread, which my ancestors ate my culture. It was only in 2018 that I between two island rivals, St. George’s when they had a long day ahead of them. could finally say that I did. Growing (on the east end) and Somerset (on the As I bit into it, I knew I was exactly where A Music Food,

up, I resonated more with my mom’s rich west end). I belonged. & Culture heritage, knowing that we have Native Alongside the friendly competition, which At Harbor Nights, the longest-running American, Mexican, and African-American goes on for two days, Cup Match also falls street festival in Bermuda, and the largest,

ancestry. But my dad was born in Bermuda, on Emancipation Day, commemorating the we watched the famous Gombey dancers Authority.com Bermuda Tourism a British territory in the North Atlantic that’s end of slavery on Bermuda. Bermudians fill Front Street with their lively music and not technically Caribbean by geography, gather to celebrate with beach parties, rhythmic drumming. An iconic symbol of

but definitely Caribbean in culture. He left food, and drink. Family members I’ve never Bermuda, these acrobatic performers of soca music filled the air as dozens of Discoveries the island at age seven, moving to the US. met before welcomed me with open arms base their routine on African, American people chased each other with neon paint Knowing the The only aspect of Bermuda that I received and made me feel at home. Indian, Biblical, British, and West Indian and powder. Locals did dance moves at significance from him was my grandmother, who spoke Tasty, inviting smells of fresh-baked lore and traditions. the DJ’s command. “Pick up something, with a deep Bermudian accent – a mix of breads and sweets filled my cousin’s house Finally, Cup Match day arrived. Everyone anything!” he’d yell, and the male party of my last British, Southern American, and Caribbean as she baked various Bermudian treats showed up to show off in their best goers would lift up the closest female and name – but never talked about our family history. for us, such as johnny bread. I felt another outfits, wearing red and blue for team put her on their shoulders. By the time I left & Nature

inspired Wildlife It wasn’t until I spent more time with connection to my heritage when I learned Somerset (as we were), or light blue and the event, my clothes were soaked in paint. my auntie, who lived across the US from this sweet bread was formerly known as navy blue for team St. Georges. Although I’ll never forget dancing and jumping with me to walk me while I was growing up, that I became it’s a competition – which some locals, countless locals and visitors, or the pride with greater more curious about my culture. She had especially the elders, take very seriously I felt when I saw Bermudian flags raised in purpose. I lived in Bermuda longer than my Dad and – for me, it was more like a family reunion. the air. In those moments we were united, left Bermuda I felt another had more knowledge and experience of My auntie pulled me over to meet a cousin connected, and aligned. Adventure connection to the island than him. The first time I visited here and an old family friend there. Roving I was also proud to see how much my feeling her, in Virginia, she prepared a Bermudian with a band of cousins my own age, we last name meant on the island. Because my heritage stronger, brunch – cod fish and potatoes, served drank rum swizzles and tried our hands at the island is so small, a family name is wiser, when I learned with banana, avocado, and tomato chutney. Crown and Anchor, a Bermudian game of important. I carry my grandmother’s maiden this sweet I was honored to know that we have our chance and a Cup Match tradition. name, Todd. Her mother Evie Todd was the and more own traditional breakfast. Ordinarily I never gamble, but on this day backbone of the family, raising not only her confident in bread was to Know Shortly afterwards, she showed me a I joined in the fun, all of us screaming every children and her grandchildren, but also who I am Need formerly picture of my great-grandmother. I almost time the dealer would roll the dice that traveling the world, while her mother Kate

known as shed a tear, seeing how much my Dad matched our bet. Todd was an activist on the island. journey bread, resembled her. From that moment, I had With each passing day, I could feel my Knowing the significance of my last name to know more about my Dad’s side of the Bermudian blood flowing through my inspired me to walk with greater purpose. which my family. When my auntie told me she was veins. For the first time in my life, I felt like I left Bermuda feeling stronger, wiser, and Safety Travel ancestors ate planning a visit to Bermuda in July 2018, I was a part of a culture. One of the purest more confident in who I am. From now on, Feel more I let her know I was interested in going moments, which I’ll always hold dear to my I’ll always visit Bermuda during Cup Match. when you when they travel, with with her. heart, was the Bacchanal Run. I was under I’ll always be able to connect with my had a long day Stories We traveled to Bermuda in time for one Todd Trene the assumption that this event was an family, embrace my Caribbean culture, and ahead of them of the island’s biggest events, Cup Match. actual race, but I was wrong. The sounds carry on our family tradition.

26 27 worldnomads.com

UNFORGETTABLE

Bomba Workshop Welcome in Puerto Rico “Maraca, cuá, buleador, subidor!”

We repeat the instructor’s words as she stands

on stage, pointing at various instruments – a Music Food,

rattle, a pair of wooden sticks, low-pitch and & Culture high-pitch drums. Before I can memorize them, more words follow: “seis corridos, sicá” – names of distinct beats that the drummer demonstrates for us. Learning bomba, Puerto Rico’s earliest musical genre created

by enslaved Africans, feels like learning a Discoveries new language.

I might have missed this bomba workshop, held at Corporación Piñones se Integra’s (COPI) community center in Loíza – the heart of Afro Puerto-Rican culture – if I hadn’t contacted Local Guest. A community-focused tour & Nature

enterprise, Local Guest connects visitors with Wildlife immersive experiences around Puerto Rico. They’d arranged my visit with COPI’s founder, Maricruz Rivera, who shared the history of Puerto Rico’s African heritage and the decades of marginalization of Black boricuas (Puerto Ricans) in this Piñones region. In 2001, Adventure the center began reviving bomba music to preserve Afro-Puerto Rican identity and culture for future generations.

That same week, Rivera invited me back to COPI – a 15-minute drive east of Old San Juan – to join a group of US students and teachers

for a bomba class. to Know Need It’s time to dance and demonstrate what we’ve

learned together. The women are handed green, red, or yellow skirts, used to express bomba’s signature movements. We shake

our hips while moving backwards, our hands Safety Travel holding our skirts out wide; we stop and sway side to side, while snapping our skirts open. With each move we make, slow or fast, the drummer beats a corresponding rhythm. Learning bomba, it turns out, isn’t about words. Robert Harding / Sylvian Grandadam Harding / Sylvian Robert It’s about unity. Lily Girma

28 29 worldnomads.com

LEARN SOMETHING NEW Jay Galvin TRIP NOTES GETTING THERE American Airlines, jetBlue, Air Canada, and KLM offer direct flights to Curaçao from Miami, Caracas, RESPECT AND RENEWAL: Amsterdam, and Newark. From Curaçao International Airport, it’s a quick 15- to 20-minute taxi ride Welcome over to the Pietermaai District (around US THE ART $35). COSTS Curaçao is fairly affordable, compared Food, Music Music Food,

to its better-known & Culture sister island Aruba. For OF CURAÇAO meals, local plates start This small south Caribbean island has earned a big reputation for contemporary at US $6, but travelers

art that’s as sustainable as it is meaningful. Kaila Yu offers her insights. Chichi® Doll Jay Galvin 2nd Life can spend as much as US $20-$60 for a meal at the upscale resorts and restaurants. Keep Discoveries an eye out for local, lthough I’ve been a musician for most city to raise awareness of the environmental heads to Serena’s Art Factory. Many visitors of “The Recycled Pirate” aka Andy Kirchner. seasonal food such of my life, I’ve always felt less than and cultural issues the island is facing, such to Curaçao will recognize the Chichi® Upcycling is the lifeblood of Kirchner’s as Dutch pancakes or gifted in the arts. Put anything other as the ongoing recovery from colonialism. Upcycling is doll souvenir, a curvaceous, black plaster work, and he’s most known for his “love Balchi di piska (fried A the lifeblood fish cakes). than a mic in my hands, especially a paint He stops in front of one of his most sculpture of a woman created by the lights” – lanterns made from cans that There are several brush, and I become a klutz, making art in renowned works, called Ami Ta Kòrsou (I of Kirchner's sprightly, energetic Serena Janet Israel – a weren’t being recycled, as recycling bins options for getting general something I both admire and fear. Am Curaçao), which features a partawal, 48-year-old German immigrant who has were only placed around the island as of around Curaçao. Bus

work, and & Nature But on a trip to the island of Curaçao, in a local white-tailed hawk that serves as a lived in Curaçao for more than 20 years. 2016, thanks to the TUI Care Foundation. rides often cost no Wildlife he's most more than US $1 a trip. the Leeward Antilles about 40mi (65km) symbol of guardianship. Next to it, a poem Each Chichi® doll is hand-molded by Israel Kirchner, a ruggedly handsome man known for his Taxis are convenient, north of Venezuela, I discover something proclaims the emancipation and healing and hand-painted by a local artist to create with a salt-and-pepper beard, walks with starting at about US $8 among its rich, world-renowned community of the city in artistic lettering inspired by “love lights” – a one-of-a-kind original, rather than a a slight limp and a cane because of a tragic a fare. Rental cars are lanterns made steeper, ranging US of artists, many of whom infuse their work indigenous cave paintings and California mass-produced trinket. Sustainably extends scuba-diving accident seven years ago $30-80 a day.

with principles of sustainability – the Cholo lettering – a gothic-style graffiti used from cans to the mold itself, which can be reused that cost his girlfriend her life. Out of his Adventure healing spirit evident in the name of the by Mexican gangs. hundreds of times. “Our Chichi® stand for pain came the inspiration to create 2nd island, derived from the Portuguese word decency and respect,” Israel declares. Life Curaçao, which is not only focused on for heart (coração). Serena Janet Israel I’m invited to paint my own design on a sustainability but is dedicated to giving a On a day-long tour of the works of With my art appetite whetted, the brigade Chichi® doll, but am doubtful of my abilities. second life to the injured and disabled. We three leading artists, I find inspiration However, once I cradle the Chichi® doll in each take home a hand-hammered lantern everywhere. my hand, I give my full concentration to the of a heart, which now sits on my counter, to Know

project. I don’t seem to exhale until the last, reminding me to love and appreciate Need Garrick Marchena painstakingly detailed red brush stroke, Mother Earth, and myself.

I’m in Curaçao’s capital, Willemstad, a city and realize that I’ve been in a meditative No trip to Curaçao is complete without that embraces upcycling by converting state during the entire two-hour session, a swim in the warm Caribbean waters. As I countless, deteriorating colonial buildings leaving me energized and focused, yet float lazily on my back, after a day fueled by Travel Safety Travel into dazzling new hotels and businesses. completely at peace. Who knew painting art and human connection, I feel resolved Learn how Leading our tuk-tuk brigade down the could be so healing? to bring my new principles home with me, to Travel narrow back alleys of the pastel-colored along with my cherished Chichi® doll, to Responsibly on your Pietermaai district is street artist Garrick Andy Kirchner remind me of the artist within. During my next trip Marchena. The 53-year-old native paints We end our day at 2nd Life Curaçao, an art short time on this island, I was cured of my

Ami Ta Kòrsou (I Am Curaçao) courtesy Garrick Marchena strategically placed murals throughout the studio and collective located at the home own limiting beliefs in my artistic skills.

30 31 worldnomads.com Sint Maarten Welcome Food, Music Music Food, & Culture Discoveries & Nature Wildlife Wildlife Adventure

There’s a lot of buried treasure in the Caribbean – and not all of it was left behind by pirates. to Know

Follow our nomads as Need they uncover the region’s surprisingly affordable side, meet the locals on Saba, a rocky pinnacle of Safety Travel DISCOVERIES an island that abounds with personality, and witness the reemergence of a paradise Getty Images / Danita Delimont devastated by a hurricane.

32 33 worldnomads.com

SEEK EXPERIENCES Getty Images / Bob Krist

ON A SHOESTRING: SINT MAARTEN Welcome Travel in the Caribbean is notoriously expensive – especially on islands known as jetset getaways. proves it’s possible for a

Gary Meenaghan Music Food, family to stay, and enjoy, for a month without breaking the bank. & Culture Jay Galvin lmost as soon as I paid for the US $445 a night. Eventually, after digging flights, I realized my mistake. While a with all the determination of our toddler Amonth in Cambodia or Colombia can daughter and her bucket and spade, we Discoveries be enjoyed on a meager budget, no matter happened across a yacht support center how cheap your tickets to the Caribbean on the French side of the island. are, 30 days of family accommodation will Such centers are designed to offer The "Old Street" almost certainly turn an economical escape assistance to crew members temporarily Shopping Arcade, Philipsburg into an exorbitant one. Add on island taxis, forced ashore. We had stayed in similar in imported food, and daily entertainment, Antigua, and found them both excellent & Nature and such a trip threatens to not only break and economical. Our St. Martin lodgings Wildlife the bank but also your nomadic spirit. included a laundromat, engine repair shop, spontaneous stop opposite the Our Lady of We avoided the beachfront cafes that After a small panic, I reasoned: we and no-frills waterfront cabins for US $30 Perpetual Help Church, where a temporary unashamedly charge US $15 for a simple were not visiting Sint Maarten for its per night. We fell asleep each evening to roadside barbecue sold US $10 lobster omelette, and headed to Dish D’Lish, mega-resorts nor its rib-eye steaks. The the calming sound of the sea and used the lunches. In Sint Maarten, it meant lying a family restaurant in the Simpson Bay

attraction was the unique 34mi2 (87km2) free Wi-Fi while we sipped our morning under incoming airplanes on Maho Beach, neighborhood not far from Princess Juliana Adventure isle, part of the Leeward Islands in the coffee. Its location was not ideal, but but also visiting various others, such as airport, where we heaped our plates with Northeast Caribbean. Divided in half and with a car it was no problem. And in the Orient Bay, Cupecoy, and Mullet Bay. On seafood pasta at the US $10 gourmet buffet. governed by two different countries – Sint Caribbean, it’s almost always best to rent the way, we stopped at a local market and Maarten by the Netherlands, and St. Martin a car. filled a small thermal bag with drinks, rather Entertainment by France – its fine-as-flour beaches and than splurging at the beachside bars. November, when we were there, is at the crystalline waters are complemented by Transport tail end of hurricane season, meaning Sometimes it to Know arguably the world’s most famous landing All around the Caribbean, island taxis Food low-season rates for high-season weather, Need strip. Given all three can be enjoyed for seems if you cater almost exclusively to visitors, and the Sometimes it seems if you want to eat but you should expect at least a couple of

free, Sint Maarten on a shoestring should want to eat prices reflect that. Arriving at Sint Maarten’s cheap in the Caribbean, you’re stuck with tropical downpours. In Sint Maarten, you’ll be possible… right? Princess Juliana Airport, we were quoted fast food. Thankfully, that's an illusion – you find casino flyers everywhere that include cheap in the TRIP NOTES Caribbean, US $30 for an 11-minute drive to our digs. just need to eat like a local. Visiting The US $5 or $10 vouchers – no purchase Accommodation Instead, we got a free shuttle to a nearby Bahamas a year earlier, we discovered necessary. We spent a rainy evening The official currency of Safety Travel you’re stuck St. Martin is Euros, and A cursory search online highlighted the rental car office and booked a Hyundai i20 if you eat under the bustling bridge at taking turns playing 50 cent blackjack the official currency hazards of long stays in the West Indies. with fast food. for US $25 a day. Potter’s Cay, rather than at the tourist- with free money. Whoever said the house of Sint Maarten is All-inclusive was out of the question, but Thankfully, The other obvious benefit of a car is that haven of Arawak, you can save more than always wins probably also believes Antillean guilders, but US dollars are even two-star hotels were charging US that's an it opens up the entire island. In the town 50% on your conch salad or jerk chicken. it’s impossible to do Sint Maarten on a accepted on both $3,000 for the month. Airbnb averaged illusion of Swetes on Antigua, that had meant a In Sint Maarten, it’s a similar story. shoestring. They’re wrong. sides of the island.

34 35 worldnomads.com Saba CONNECT LOCALLY Saba, an Island Packed With Character(s)

A volcanic peak pierces the clouds, while striking pinnacles Welcome lie below the sea. With one tiny road and one tiny runway, this one tiny island makes a big impression on Sascha Zuger. Food, Music Music Food,

etting to Saba, a Dutch island in the A memorable Saban welcome & Culture inner arc of the Lesser Antilles, is The island hopper to Saba might be pricier Ga two-part process. After landing than the ferry, but soaring over the islands, at Princess Juliana International Airport in dotting the sea with their crayon-box array Sint Maarten, about 30mi (48km) away, I of blues and light greens, is an excursion stroll to the adjacent Sunset Beach Bar to in itself. A fellow passenger, the island’s

await my next flight. A plane approaches head-turning young doctor, points down at Discoveries and the beach (famous for its extraordinary a little peninsula as we near. proximity to low-flying aircraft about to “First visit? We’ll be landing there,” he land at the adjacent runway) comes to life. says. I nod, eyes widening. “But the runway Loungers leap to their feet to line up below doesn’t look straight...” I say. “That’s the the entrance to the runway, unconsciously road,” he says, then points down on his raising their arms in worship to the side of the plane, “That’s the runway.” I lean & Nature massive, roaring craft skimming above over and laugh in disbelief. A short, flat Wildlife their heads. Little did I know that would platform sits atop the sea – very short. I’ve be the second-most impressive airport parked my car closer at the grocery store. Getty Images / John Hancock Photography experience of the day. The little rooftop is not a fishing shack, but Juancho E. Yrausquin Airport. We’ll

be landing with less distance than one say. “How did you know my driver?” I ask. becoming sailors, the women became Adventure lap around a jogging track. It’s the only “Donna is the cab,” says Glenn, “Though strong and independent in their absence, Travel time in all my travels I consider applauding she doesn’t drive at night.” My mouth must running farms, maintaining the island, and smart with a landing. have dropped, as the doctor offers, “But we creating necessities and textiles such as the our Safety just got an Uber! He does drive at night.” famous Saban lace. advice Getty Images / Michael Runkel An instant family Donna invites me to join her daughter The doctor notices Glenn, the island’s Cottage life and the “ladies who lace” at their weekly to Know

Director of Tourism, waiting at the terminal Donna, my cab driver, cheerfully offers a sewing circle at Kakona Saba, a local Need to pick someone up. He introduces us – my The hills are guided tour as we wind our way along the initiative in Windwardside. Women ranging

induction into the family of Saba. Everyone dotted with island’s sole cliff road to my accommodation. in age from 14 to 92 gather to share lace Getty Images / bddigitalimages here runs into everyone else multiple times charming The volcanic island has a tumultuous past patterns and the latest gossip. a day. By choosing to share the island’s – fights between shipwrecked Englishmen, The hills are dotted with charming white beauty, travelers insert themselves into white Dutchmen, native Amerindians, and famous cottages with gingerbread trim and red Safety Travel the population of 1,800, and will be waved cottages with pirates such as Henry Morgan mark its tile roofs. Flowers spill from yards onto to, called by name, and welcomed as a gingerbread history, though trouble is now as dormant the roadside, spiking the air with a heady member of the clan. as the island’s eruptions. The “Unspoiled scent. Donna pulls into Compass Cottage, Glenn offers me a ride, but I have a cab trim and red Queen” even scared away Columbus with my airy and inviting home for the week. It’s Traditional houses in Windwardside coming. “Donna’s outside,” both men tile roofs its jagged coast. With most of the men Dutch perfection, precisely efficient, with

36 37 worldnomads.com

CONNECT LOCALLY Ashley Winchester Getty Images / Oliver Benn Welcome UNFORGETTABLE Guavaberries, a Caribbean Food, Music Music Food,

Christmas Carol & Culture

For me, it’s not the holidays without a healthy dose of guavaberry liqueur. I’ve celebrated Christmas nearly every year Saba village Diving Saba with family on St. John in the US Virgin Getty Images / Brandi Mueller Islands, and this Yuletide beverage is as traditional as Santa’s milk and cookies. Discoveries

a wraparound porch and swaying palms lieu of beach time, landlubbers can trek to The sweet, but strong, rum-based brew is the product of a centuries-old eastern on the pool deck overlooking the sea and the Kingdom of the Netherlands’ highest Caribbean tradition steeped in song, the distant island of St. Eustatius. It’s utter point, accompanied by famous local guide celebration, and secrecy. Groves of serenity, broken only by the soft bleating of TRIP NOTES Crocodile James, who happily machetes guavaberries, which appear year to year, baby miniature goats rustling through the GETTING THERE his way up Mt. Scenery, sharing info on are as transient as Scrooge’s generosity, & Nature hillside jungle. The Edge, a high-speed botanicals and inappropriate island tales in and are closely guarded family secrets. Wildlife Mark, my temporary landlord, stops in ferry, travels from equal measure.) Sint Maarten to Saba Our go-to source is Lucia Henley’s with coffee, cheese, and wine. As many I opt for Sea Saba, a PADI Resort and Wednesday, Friday, and stand, off Highway 32 in the East End here do, he pairs this multi-generational Sunday. The morning Reef Environmental Education Foundation of St. Thomas, another of the US Virgin family business with his true passion as an route to Saba (9am) (REEF) Field Station. Co-founder Lynn also returns in the afternoon Islands. Henley is among the most prolific

upscale jewelry designer who travels the (3:30pm) to allow for started, with Johanna of Juliana’s, the purveyors of the homemade drink, and Adventure world during the rainy season collecting daytrips. Rates: US annual Sea & Learn on Saba program. visitors can find her stand well-stocked rare gems and stones – and occasionally $100 (adults) and $60 Lynn organizes breathtaking dives to key from November through December with (children) roundtrip, US guavaberry liqueur, jams, and pies. handsome partners – to inspire his next $65/$38 one way. sites including Eye of the Needle, Third collection. (His exquisite pieces are Encounter (named one of Sport Diver’s The Dawn II ferry A song, “Good mornin’, good mornin’, on show at historical Jewel Cottage in travels from Saba to Top 10 Dive Sites), Outer Limits, and Tent ah come for me guavaberry…” speaks to Windwardside.) Sint Maarten Tuesdays, Reef Wall. Horseshoe-shaped underwater the island custom of caroling house to Thursdays, and to Know

On Donna’s advice, I stroll up the hill to mountains, deep-blue needle pinnacles, house in exchange for a sample of that Need Saturdays. The morning family’s stash, and Henley always sings Jobean Chamber’s glass-blowing and bead route to Sint Maarten and plateaus rich with soft corals and a few lines of the tune as she offers me a

shop for a workshop in the meditative art. (7am) returns in the sponges invite snappers, butterfly and taste of her concoction. It’s special, like I find myself sneaking off to the studio to afternoon (4:30pm). damselfish to linger. Rates: US $110 (adults) a fine brandy, and is traditionally passed chat and for mesmerizing sessions behind and $55 (children) But even the free-swimming chain of between carolers and revelers in the same Travel Safety Travel melting Venetian glass throughout my stay. roundtrip, US $55/$35 moray eels are trumped by sleeping way as wassail – the mulled wine drink of one way. nurse sharks, massive grouper, and a brief Medieval Christmastime. Our favorite way Diving into activities Winair offers four or glimpse of a passing manta ray. During a to imbibe is after caroling and Christmas While parking poolside with a book is more daily flights. safety stop, a curious Caribbean reef shark Eve events on St. John, following Santa’s Fares depend on date visit – by boat – in downtown Cruz Bay. tempting, I’m more enticed by Saba’s and availability (USD offers a quick hello, yet another Saban legendary pinnacles and wall diving. (In $83-$132). resident ensuring we feel at home. Ashley Winchester

38 39 worldnomads.com

CONNECT LOCALLY

snorkeled with schools of tropical fish, and Barbuda’s Road with a bit more luck, would have been able

to spot sea turtles, barracuda, rays, and a Moiola / Sysaworld Getty Images / Roberto variety of other marine creatures. to Recovery Back on land and alone for as far as the eye can see, it’s easy to pretend you’re

In 2017, Hurricane Irma unleashed widespread destruction on this island shipwrecked on an uninhabited island. Welcome Condé Nast Traveler named Pink Sand paradise. Traveling there in 2018, Gary Meenaghan found signs of the Beach the 14th most beautiful in the world, storm all around. Here’s why he feels Barbuda is still well worth a visit. while at the lagoon close to Codrington, Barbuda’s largest town, you can find the largest frigate breeding and nesting Food, Music Music Food,

arbuda, with its pink-shell beaches Gradual recovery colony outside the Galápagos, with & Culture and picture-perfect palm trees, was The island and its people are rising again, around 2,500 birds. BPrincess Diana’s East Caribbean but it has been a slow process. When I escape whenever she sought to lose the visited with my young family in November Boosting the economy paparazzi. Now, two years since Hurricane 2018, officials estimated 75% of the Happily, it’s not only the birds who are Irma, it’s an island trying to repair its recent population had returned. Yet as we arrived flocking back. As of September 2019,

past and recover a paradise lost. for a day trip, no other travelers were on half of the island’s 1,200 properties have Discoveries Part of the Lesser Antilles, and located on the catamaran that shuttles passengers been rebuilt, according to Prime Minister the outer arc of the West Indies, Barbuda between Barbuda and its sister isle Browne. Accommodation options remain was directly in the path of the Category 5 Antigua. Instead, we bounced up and down limited, but they were never abundant. storm. When Irma visited in the early hours alongside only sleepy-eyed laborers and Beach bungalows have reopened, there’s of September 6, 2017, Barbuda suffered smartly dressed NGO workers. TRIP NOTES a handful of homestay and Airbnb options, 95% devastation. Winds of up to 185mph It was a sharp contrast to bustling GETTING THERE and a luxury resort located at the northern & Nature

The Barbuda Express Wildlife (298kph) decimated everything from Antigua, 39mi (63km) south, which avoided – catchphrase: “A to B end of 11 Mile Beach has reopened to homes and hotels, to schools, the airport, severe damage by Irma. Much of Barbuda by Sea” – leaves from rapturous international reviews. Princess and the community’s only hospital. Neither still felt barren and broken. Flooded dirt Antigua’s Heritage Diana Beach has started hosting idyllic Quay six days a week running water nor electricity survived, roads forced our driver to weave between at 7am, takes 90 weddings again, and popular steel-band and the island’s steel phone tower folded potholes, uprooted trees, boulders, minutes, and returns music nights and Caribbean cooking at 4:30pm. A round in two as if it were made of chicken wire. and wild donkeys. Fences lay flattened. classes have even returned to Adventure The Prime Minister, Gaston Browne, called Abandoned beachside cottages featured trip costs US $55. It’s the island. often possible, and the island “uninhabitable” and ordered its thick cracks running across their interior sometimes cheaper, If in doubt that even a basic day trip can 1,500 residents be evacuated. walls like varicose veins. A grandiose hotel to charter a 15-minute help a community get back on to its feet, close to Pink Sand Beach sat empty, save flight from Antigua for consider this: as we headed to the wharf up to six people. for a chandelier made of shells. to catch the catamaran back to Antigua, Frigate bird DAY TOURS As of September our driver stopped at his house to drop to Know

Unrivaled natural beauty 2019, day tours can off some construction materials. Exiting Need Yet, despite all this, it’s possible to enjoy be organized for US his black pick-up, he motioned towards $145 per person and

Barbuda's unrivaled beauty – and in doing the empty shell of a suburban bungalow; include the ferry, a so, pump a little money into an economy lobster lunch on Pink its roof just a series of exposed wooden in desperate need of exactly that. About Sand Beach, and rafters. “That’s home,” he said. “But until 4.5mi (7km) south of the ferry terminal, on visits to the Frigate I can afford to finish the repairs, I sleep Safety Travel Bird Sanctuary, deserted Princess Diana Beach – so named Princess Diana Beach, there…” We followed his gaze to the right in 2011 to mark what would have been the and various caves of the house, where a white, UN-provided late royal’s 50th birthday – we sipped from with petroglyphs tent stood erect in the garden. and stalactites. See coconuts hand-picked by our driver and Barbudaful.net for These are the people our tourism dollars Antigua and Barbuda Tourism Authority Antigua and Barbuda Tourism Pink Beach, Barbuda swam in the crystalline Caribbean Sea. We more details. can help.

40 41 worldnomads.com Hawksbill turtle Getty Images / Brandi Mueller Welcome Food, Music Music Food, & Culture Discoveries & Nature Wildlife Wildlife Adventure The tropical and subtropical climate of the Caribbean makes it a thriving habitat for birds and rainforest animals, while its warm waters are ideal to Know

breeding grounds for coral. Need WILDLIFE Join our travelers as they visit remote mountaintops and bird sanctuaries in the Dominican Republic, and discover Safety Travel & NATURE the rich marine life of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, the world’s second-largest barrier reef system.

42 43 worldnomads.com

SEEK EXPERIENCES Getty Images / Fernando Bandini

THE HIDDEN Welcome DOMINICAN Food, Music Music Food, REPUBLIC & Culture From a homestay in a small coastal town to birding on remote cays and holing up in a cabin at 7,000ft (2,130m) above sea Discoveries level, Lily Girma finds a side of the country few know exists.

hen I was writing a guide book fields and roadside fruit vendors, until Barahona on the Dominican Republic (DR), we enter bustling Barahona. The second located between Cuba and Puerto chicken-bus ride takes my breath away as & Nature W Wildlife Rico in the Greater Antilles, I traveled around it winds down a narrow, coastal highway the country for a year. My mission was to flanked by green hills and an iridescent At sunset, La Ciénaga’s tiny waterfront a massive canyon. I gasp looking at a unearth immersive experiences, away from blue sea. fills with residents. Fishermen canoes are secluded turquoise pool a few feet below. the DR’s resort towns. Over the months Aurelino and two of the cooperative’s parked on the beach, and families swim Aurelino smiles ear to ear and leaps into that followed, exploring the country south women – including my host for the night, or play basketball. Aurelino takes me on a the water, screaming: “¡Paraíso!” Paradise!

to north and center, I stumbled on a world Dona Paulina, and her daughter – welcome quick boat ride along La Ciénaga’s scenic Adventure of locally run accommodations, community me off the bus. coastline under an orange sky. Offshore escape to a wildlife refuge tours, and breathtaking island scenery. “The house isn’t far, we can walk there,” The next morning, over breakfast, Dona My journey continues to the DR’s Paulina’s daughter says. We descend a Paulina and I talk about the cooperative northwestern edge – past cactus-lined A rural adventure in Barahona small hill into a neighborhood. I spot a yard life, and the sustainable income they’ve roads, salt ponds, and goats grazing off the My explorations lead me to Cooperativa filled with plastic chairs and children running generated for the community from the highway. I know I’ve reached Monte Cristi para el Desarollo de la Ciénaga in the around screaming, balloons in hands. restaurant, homestays, a marmalade- when I spot El Morro – the town’s 700ft to Know

southwestern province of Barahona. “It’s my goddaughter’s birthday. We’ll making venture, and the selling of (213m) limestone mesa overlooking the Need Aurelino, the cooperative’s tour guide, stop by for a few minutes,” says Dona adventure tours. Atlantic Ocean. Locals flock there at sunset I can't take gives me specific instructions to reach their Paulina. At 9am, Aurelino picks me up to begin for its golden, sand-and-pebble beach at community center: catch a Caribe Tours Directly across is her single-story house, my eyes off our adventure to Balneario La Plaza – a the base of the mesa. I do the same, before bus from Santo Domingo to Barahona town, where I leave my bags. At the birthday the water: it's three-hour hike along the Bahoruco River. I make my way back to the waterfront area then transfer to a guagua or local bus. I’m bash, Latin tunes blast while the kids show a crystalline A bumpy safari truck takes us into a thick, where roadside bars blast music and serve Safety Travel to tell the driver to drop me off “donde la off their moves. Strangers kiss me hello turquoise humid forest to the river entry point. I can’t cold beer, while kids swim off the dock. cooperativa de La Ciénaga,” another hour on the cheek, and I’m handed a plate of take my eyes off the water: it’s a crystalline In the morning, Soraya y Santo Tours, a east. food. I don’t understand their rapid-fire more striking turquoise more striking than the Caribbean husband-and-wife team native to Monte The first three-hour ride takes me into the Dominican Spanish, but I feel as welcome than the Sea. Climbing over rocks, and cooling in Cristi, take me on a boat trip to the Cayos campo, or countryside, past vast plantain as a neighbor. Caribbean Sea freshwater pools, we eventually reach Siete Hermanos (Seven Brother Cays), 1.5

44 45 worldnomads.com

SEEK EXPERIENCES Robert Harding / Donald Nausbaum Robert KC Cratt KC Getty Images / photofxs68 Welcome Food, Music Music Food,

UNFORGETTABLE & Culture Feria de Río Tigre Held on Isla Tigre, in the north of Panama’s Guna Yala archipelago, is Feria de Río Tigre, a four-day craft fair. As one of the last indigenous tribes Discoveries of the Caribbean, the Guna gained independence from Panama in the Valle Nuevo National Park 1925 revolution. They became the first autonomous indigenous group in Latin America, which has allowed them to retain their enchanting culture. hours off the shores of Monte Cristi, near by dense pine forests, the warmest & Nature the border with Haiti. daytime temperatures hover at 70°F Drawing Guna from their remote islands, Wildlife As the boat's captain explains, shouting (21°C). Evenings drop into the 50s and can the fair has an inclusive, community feel over the motor, the major draw is Cayo Tuna. reach below freezing in December. For as they teach each other and visitors Every year from June to August, migratory naturalists, Valle Nuevo is a paradise of the crafts of pottery, sewing molas – colorful appliqué clothing unique to the birds nest in this wildlife refuge area – three plants and wildlife, including more than 70 Guna – and geometric, beaded bracelets species of seabirds known as the Brown bird species. called chaquiras. Adventure Noddy, Sooty Tern, and Least Tern. TRIP NOTES I spend the day hiking with Seïor Anchored off Cayo Tuna, wading onto GETTING THERE Guzmán, whose family has owned this I’m treated to a magical Nogagope Fly into Santo Domingo, shore, my ears fill with piercing sounds. property for generations. A short trail performance, an intimate, spiritual dance Puerto Plata, or Santiago between couples to bamboo flutes and Thousands upon thousands of birds are international airports behind the lodge leads us through a maracas. Dedicated to Mother Earth, the perched on leafy bushes covering most to make your way maze of giant criollo pine trees, ferns, ritualistic dance is intended to keep evil of the isle – my sole companions on this to Barahona, Monte and bromeliads in a cloud forest. I feel Cristi, and Valle Nuevo, spirits away. The couples line up to face to Know

deserted, white sand circle in the middle respectively. Major car transported into another universe, when each other, slowly hopping back and forth Need of the Atlantic. rental offices are available my host tells me to stop. diagonally to the rhythm. Dressed in molas, on site; highways

“You hear that alarm sound? It’s the the women begin to spin, with their flowing, are modern and well dark hair echoing the sensual moment of Overnight in a cloud forest indicated, but watch jilguero.” The Rufous-throated Solitaire, a Warming up by my cabin chimney, I chuckle for speeding drivers. tropical bird native to the region. the dance. that I’m experiencing cold weather in the Regional bus service is A bowl of fresh sancocho – a hearty meat Safety Travel available on Caribe Tours The day wraps up with a feast of enormous, Caribbean. I’m at Villa Pajón, a Dominican to Barahona and Monte -and-root-vegetable stew – warms us up meaty lobster and delicate, sweet crab family-owned lodge tucked inside Valle Cristi, with scheduled over lunch at the lodge. Walking back to followed by fresh coconuts. No frills, just Nuevo National Park. daily departures listed my cabin for a nap by the chimney, I realize locally foraged foods as I discuss Guna online. Valle Nuevo in traditions with my new friends. Lucy Pierce Perched on a plateau at 7,000ft (2,130m), Constanza requires a four- that I’ve succeeded – I had found the near the center of the DR, and surrounded wheel drive. Dominican Republic I want others to see. Feria de Río Tigre is held in mid-October.

46 47 worldnomads.com

SEEK EXPERIENCES

boats) head our way, one with a makeshift Hog Heaven in Honduras sail to harness the sea breeze. Smiling locals offer goods for sale – hand-rolled PADI Divemaster Sascha Zuger is enticed by the Bay Islands not because of cigars, carefully wrapped, fresh coconut bread – and an invitation to visit their village. their beaches or coconut-cocktail bars, but because they're home to the world’s The Cayos archipelago doesn’t have any second-largest reef system and the idyllic, little-known Cayos Cochinos.

cars, roads, or bikes and is home to 100 Welcome inhabitants, most Garifuna (descendants of Carib Indians and Africans) who live simply s recently as 20 years ago, visitors to deep-blue fathoms, and ridges covered in without running water or electricity. Roatan would have enjoyed deserted pink sea fans and coral nooks. TRIP NOTES We land on the beach and hike through a white sand beaches and pristine Streams of violet-blue creole wrasse swirl DAY TRIPS: jungle that’s home to the world’s only pink A 2 2 Note, sea conditions must Music Food,

reefs. Today, the 10mi (50km ) island, off around a coral pillar as we move toward boa constrictors. Although we don’t spot the & Culture the coast of Honduras, is one of the busiest the shallows below the snorkelers. Their be ideal/near flat for most rare creatures, from the summit lighthouse boats to comfortably cruise ship destinations in the world, exclamations echo down as they point make the trip. we can clearly see Cayo Menor across the ushering in more than a million passengers at a sea turtle popping up for a breath. A variety of operators in bay, where a research center, supported a year. I quickly realize my dreams of the Nosing over the edge of the ridge, a Roatan offer sailing and by non-profits including the renowned untouched Meso-American Barrier Reef will docile, inquisitive nurse shark greets us as powerboat tours, with Smithsonian Institute and World Wildlife activities including scuba Discoveries require a day trip to Cayos Cochinos, aka we reluctantly return to the sailboat and diving, snorkeling, fishing, Fund, offers a base for visiting scientists. the Hog Islands. We set sail for our 25mi continue on to the Hog Islands. and visits to Chachahuate We wander over to Cayo Chachahuate (40km) journey accompanied by a pod village. Trips average for a bite and a chat with the islanders. This of frolicking spinner dolphins – surely an 8.5 hours and typically sand-spit village of palm-thatched roof huts Cayo Grande include lunch, drinks, and auspicious start. Soon, Cayo Grande comes into view, the snacks. Prices range from and hammocks offers some of the only largest of the two main islands (plus 13 tiny US $135-180. overnight accommodations on Cayos. We Seamounts of Cayos Cochinos coral islets). Lush greenery covers a large hill sip Salva Vida beers as our hand-line caught & Nature It’s a real treat to stop enroute for a snorkel, edged by golden beach. As our boat nears, snappers and plantains are fried to order. Wildlife or advanced dive, seemingly in the middle several cayucos (hand-carved wooden of the ocean – 45 minutes by power boat A very big surprise in store or a few hours by leisurely sail from Roatan. After a dive off Cayos Grande – where Meso-American Barrier Reef Seamounts are underwater mountains, we spot sea turtles, lobsters, eagle rays,

jutting up more than 3,280ft (1,000m) from soft corals, and century-old purple barrel Adventure the ocean floor, stopping just short of sponge – we head back to Roatan. As breaking the surface and earning the title of we’re dozing in the salt spray and sun, the “island”. The topography creates currents boat slows. The captain motions to the awash with plankton, attracting open- crew – a straight hand to his forehead, then Swimming with a seafaring creatures including rays, sharks, arms as wide as his smile. They rush for whale shark and sportfish, as well as a protected habitat confirmation and hustle us into our fins and Kiefer 2 Getty Images / Ken to Know

so remote that many species are endemic, masks. We’ve happened upon the world’s Need existing only in this microcosm. largest fish, the whale shark, tipping the

We tie up to a mooring line to protect scales at 41,000lbs (6,350kg), and up to spooking it into a dive, its steady gaze and the fragile system, and back-roll from the 60ft (19m) long. striking spots and stripes seared into our boat into paradise. Dropping to 100ft (30m) As the captain positions us in the shark’s memory. The sheer enormity of the creature, we’re rewarded with schools of horse eye path, we slip into the water, equally thrilled after a day already filled with otherworldly Safety Travel jack and barracuda feasting on shimmering that we have encountered the rare, gentle adventures, leaves us in awe as we quietly silversides. Nearby, dinner-plate sized giant and that, as a filter-feeding shark, we reboard the boat. The captain offers to drop Atlantic spadefish flash their zebra stripes as are entirely off its menu. The slow-moving in lines to fish on the final stretch home, but they feed on plankton in the water column. creature glides along beside us. We keep we decline. The sea has already given us The mountain’s pinnacle drops off into Getty Images / Joe Dovala a 9ft (3m) distance and stay calm to avoid more than we could ever want.

48 49 worldnomads.com

UNFORGETTABLE Restoring a Coral Reef in Bonaire Welcome Weighed down by scuba gear and floating just above the sandy ocean floor, I carefully tie a string, dangling a coral fragment, to the

branch of a “tree” in a coral nursery. The tree Music Food,

is made of thin, metal cross bars attached to & Culture a thicker post – coral fragments hang from each bar like Christmas ornaments. Around me, divers gently brush juvenile coral to remove algae and predators, while others clip, restring, and rehang fragments – which

grow an inch a month – on the trees. The Discoveries corals are clipped every few months, so they produce new coral as they grow.

These coordinated efforts are all part of a Discover Reef Renewal Dive with Reef Renewal Foundation Bonaire. We’re helping to restore the coral that surrounds the island and & Nature

provides habitats to myriad marine life. After Wildlife all, the reefs are what draw divers from around the world to this small, Dutch Caribbean island around 50mi (80km) north of Venezuela.

Reef Renewal Foundation Bonaire was founded in 2012 with a mission to protect and restore the coral reefs within the Bonaire Adventure National Marine Park, which was established in 1979 and surrounds the island entirely. Currently, some 13,000 individual corals are grown in Reef Renewal Foundation Bonaire’s eight nurseries, and more than 24,000 corals have been outplanted back to the reefs.

The foundation invites certified scuba to Know divers who are interested in volunteering Need to complete a training course and assist with

the nursery, maintenance, and outplanting corals to restoration sites around Bonaire and Klein Bonaire. Travel Safety Travel As someone who’s been passionate about marine life since learning to snorkel in Hawaii as a little girl, I was thrilled to participate in a Discover Reef Renewal Dive and do my part to

help preserve Bonaire’s coral reefs for future Dirscherl Getty Images / Reinhard generations. Susan Barnes

50 51 worldnomads.com Getyy Images / Flavio Vallenari Welcome Food, Music Music Food, & Culture Discoveries & Nature Wildlife Wildlife Adventure

Diving isn’t the only worthwhile activity in these parts. Our to Know

nomads will lure you off Need the beach to snorkel at an effervescent reef and rappel down a waterfall. They’ll take you racing on an America’s Safety Travel ADVENTURE Cup yacht, climbing to the peak of an active volcano, or exploring the eerie remains of Vermont Nature Trail, St. Vincent a town engulfed by one.

52 53 worldnomads.com

SEEK EXPERIENCES TRIP NOTES The St. Maarten 12-Metre Regatta is

St Maarten 12 Metre Regatta St based on the main pier Keeping the at Philipsburg, near Bobby’s Marina, and at www.12metre.com. Races begin at America’s Cup 8:30am most days, and continue through

the day with up Welcome Spirit Alive to four additional races, depending on demand, at 10am, 11:30am, 1pm, and on Sint Maarten 2pm. The cost is US $90 for

adults, and US $65 Music Food,

Sailing a retired racing boat in the & Culture for children nine and 12 Metre Regatta, Tim Harper finds himself in older. Reservations a tense competition with arguably the most through the website are recommended, but famous racing yacht in history. walkups on the pier will be accommodated if there’s room.

The yachts have Discoveries t’s a good day for sailing off Sint Maarten, undergone minor renovations for safety, one of the Leeward Islands in the but not comfort. There northeast Caribbean – sunny and 80°F F-Stars & Stripes is no head (bathroom) & Canada II I on board. People (26°C), with a fresh breeze. I join the crowd with disabilities of travelers on the main pier at the capital should inquire about city, Philipsburg. accessibility. & Nature Wildlife Wildlife I have sailed a bit, but most of us are is named timekeeper – and we realize it’s outfitters and brought to the Caribbean to more work,” he warns us grinders. The typical race non-sailors who’ve heard about the St. up to us to sail this very fast boat. do what they were built to do: race. The next 10 minutes are a mix of experiences takes Maarten 12 Metre Regatta – essentially a Which is no easy job. The 12-metre yachts, After more than an hour, we ragtag concentration and perspiration as True two to two-and-a-half hours, not counting a mini-version of the America’s Cup races that historically “the greyhounds of the sea,” are visitors feel like a real crew. It’s time to race North IV sweeps back and forth. In a complimentary rum have long captivated an audience beyond beautifully sleek but finicky vessels built the other 12, which has been zig-zagging decisive move, the yachts appear to be punch afterwards in the 12 Metre Regatta’s

hardcore sailors. The 12 Metre has won for speed, not comfort, nearly 70ft (21m) across the harbor, training its crew, too. The headed toward the same spot on the water Adventure club house. many awards for being one of the best “soft long with an 86ft (26m) mast, weighing 35 course is five legs of about 1mi (1.6km) each, from sharply opposing angles. adventures” in the Caribbean. But it wasn’t tons (31,750kg) and flying 1,700ft2 (158m2) compared with the typical 22m (35km) Heeling at 15°, salt spray in our faces, our so soft for some of us. of sail. (The “12 metre” classification comes America’s Cup race. boat moving so fast we can hear the bow A handful of 12 Metre staffers work the After more not from the yacht’s length, but from an As the yachts maneuver toward the start slicing through the waves, we cut in front of crowd, dividing us into two crews of 15, with than an hour, equation based on several measurements, line, the other 12 comes close enough for us Stars & Stripes at a right angle, almost close comparable numbers of young adults, older including the distance from deck to water.) to glimpse its name. enough to reach out and touch its bow.

we ragtag to Know

people, and children. Each crew boards a The 12s were the official boat of the Astonished, I look at the captain. “Is The good-natured jeers from Stars & Need launch and is ferried to its yacht. My group visitors feel America’s Cup until 1987, when the sports that…?” I ask. Stripes fade as we move away. Another Sailing can be a dangerous sport.

steps onto True North IV. world was riveted by the dramatic races “Yeah,” he says. “That’s Stars & Stripes.” quick tack, and we glide across the finish like a real Wear your safety The yacht’s tanned young captain spots crew. It’s time off Fremantle, Australia that resulted in a We help our timekeeper count down, and line, half a length ahead. equipment including my triathlon t-shirt and assigns me the most victory by the New York Yacht Club’s entry, swoosh across the start line seconds ahead “We did it,” the skipper exults. “A slam a life vest, don’t mix

to race the sailing with alcohol or Safety Travel physically demanding job on the boat, one Stars & Stripes, arguably the most famous of Stars & Stripes. dunk.” Our shipmates raise a round of drugs, and stay aware of four “grinders,” furiously cranking lines in other 12, which racing yacht in history. For the 1988 Cup, After one tack (turn into the wind) about cheers for us grinders. I close my eyes, at all times of your and out on big spools as the sails are re-set. the specifications were changed, and the 30 minutes into the race, our captain frowns. savoring the sea and sun. When I open surrounds and the has been zig- changing weather. Two other professional crew, equally future of the 12-metre yachts dimmed. “We’re behind,” he says. “They’ve positioned them, the young skipper is smiling at me. Check your travel young and tanned, give orders to the rest of zagging across Ivy, as our crew calls our boat, was one themselves to take our wind.” We can catch “Hey,” he says quietly. “We just beat Stars insurance policy for more details. us. Everyone has a task – one elderly lady the harbor of five 12s rescued by the St. Maarten up only with a series of sharp tacks. “It’s a lot & Stripes.”

54 55 worldnomads.com

SEEK EXPERIENCES La Soufrière: Hiking St. Vincent’s Volcano / Flickr Creative Commons Alexandre Lefebvre

High above the island’s idyllic white-sand beaches Welcome looms the still-active volcano that created it. Bill Fink braves the windswept climb to its peak. Food, Music Music Food,

t feels like the end of the earth – or the calmed and the island is covered in tropical & Culture beginning. Billowing fog obscures my As I ponder greenery from peaks to craters. Isight, whipping winds rattle my rain La Soufrière’s La Soufrière’s eruptions continued jacket, and mud coats my shoes as they periodically, including the 1902 disaster crunch on black lava rock. Bright green destructive that killed more than 1,500 people. grasses cling to the trail beside me on power, the Tracking stations now monitor the volcano, knife-edge cliffs, looming above the crater mists part safely enabling evacuations well before the Discoveries of the still-active La Soufrière volcano on most recent eruptions in the 1970s. After the island of St. Vincent. to reveal the its 40 years of relative dormancy, I can’t majesty of La even smell La Soufrière’s eponymous sulfur Sulphurous Soufrière Soufrière’s fumes while standing right above the crater. The scene atop La Soufrière is as it could As I ponder La Soufrière’s destructive have been hundreds of thousands of years creation power, the mists part to reveal the majesty & Nature ago, when it belched forth mountains of lava of La Soufrière’s creation. The island of St. Wildlife to birth the island from the depths of the Vincent spreads 360° around me, a tropical Caribbean Sea. The lava was accompanied paradise of flowering trees, soft green by vast, sulphurous clouds of gas, for hills, clear mountain streams, and majestic which the now 4,049ft (1,234m) mountain waterfalls, ringed by white and black sand

was named. Eons later, the volcano has beaches, lapped by the calm blue waters of Adventure the Caribbean. Looking into the crater, I survey a primeval setting of waterfalls tumbling down black rock cliffs, multi-hued lakes, and a towering jungle straight out of Jurassic Park. I half-expect a T-Rex to burst to Know Getty Images / Walter Bibikow Getty Images / Walter

from the banana trees and chase skittering Need herds of prey. It is a spectacular, other-

worldly setting that makes the challenging hike to the top well worth the effort.

Climbing the volcano Safety Travel My trip started in the capital of Kingstown, about an hour’s drive to the base of La Soufrière. I had booked a guided hike with Sailors Wilderness Tours. While the trails St. Vincent La Soufrière up La Soufrière are fairly well marked, a

56 57 worldnomads.com

SEEK EXPERIENCES Getty Images / Gary Moss

Bill Fink TRIP NOTES The trailhead to La Soufrière is about an hour’s drive from the capital city of Kingstown. From there, it’s about a two-hour

climb to the crater rim. Welcome The trail is often wet and crosses streams, as well as rough, rocky patches, so wear sturdy, water-resistant footwear, and bring a walking stick and UNFORGETTABLE Food, Music Music Food,

plenty of water. While & Culture the trail begins in hot, Conch Festival humid jungle, the weather on top can be Put a shell up to your ear, and you’ll hear very windy and chilly, the sea. Listen to Triton’s Trumpet, and so it’s wise to bring a you’ll hear the Caribbean. Crater's edge at La Soufrière light rain jacket.

Hikers must comply Every November, the British Overseas Discoveries with all rules and Territory of Turks and Caicos, some guidelines set out by 575mi (925km) south of Miami, Florida, licensed guide is not only required for divided by gently flowing streams. The the Government of celebrates its edible trumpets. Visitors and visitors, but beneficial to ensure you stay on hot, humid climate requires multiple water St. Vincent and the “belongers” (locals) conch it up at the Conch the best path, and to provide an education breaks at basic, covered rest stops. Grenadines’ National Festival, held at Blue Hills on the island of Parks: no glass bottles, about the volcano and St. Vincent along As we progress, the temperature cools, alcohol, smoking, or Providenciales. Festivities include a conch the way. and we enter the Cloud Forest zone of the loud music is permitted fritter-eating contest, a conch-knocking & Nature Our hike begins at the trailhead partway mountain, bathed in near perpetual mist, on the trails, and it contest, a conch-peeling competition, and Wildlife is required for non- a conch-blowing tournament. The winner up on the windward side of the island providing a serene setting, but making residents to hike with of this last, prestigious event must produce (there’s a longer and steeper trail on the the trail a bit slippery. Our guide collects a certified guide. I was a recognizable tune. When I entered, I happy with Sailors’ leeward side). We walk alongside a banana walking sticks for us, helping our balance produced a plumbing anomaly. I left the plantation, to see bunches of bananas and making us feel like intrepid explorers. Wilderness Tours (US $95 for the six- cooking to the experts.

wrapped in bug-proof, blue netting that We ascend the steeper, rocky upper zone hour trip and lunch, Adventure makes them look like Christmas gifts for of the mountain in clouds of fog, glad for our including transport), The conch is known as Triton’s Trumpet after the Greek god of the sea. It's favored monkeys. We stroll along a wide, clear experienced guide. The wind and misting and other local options are available. For more by merpeople – ­maids and men. When path, slowly ascending on small foothills rain increases, as if La Soufrière is actively information, see the Columbus discovered conch on Turks and trying to keep us from her summit. Poking National Parks website Caicos in 1492, he described the shells as with sticks, shuffling our boots, huffing and (http://nationalparks. “the size of a calf head”. Along with the gov.vc) or the national puffing, we make it to the crater rim, where tourism website at spiny lobster and the flamingo, the conch is featured prominently on the islands’ coat to Know the spirit of La Soufrière blows a few final discoversvg.com. Need powerful gusts, then relents to part the of arms. It must be the world’s only heraldic mollusc. Conch is a cult.

clouds and reveal her natural majesty.

Getty Images / Simon Dannhauer Reluctantly descending from the peak, Having eaten conch (Strombus) in its fried, we reflect on the rewards of leaving smoked, frittered, and pecan-encrusted the beaches to explore the wild side form, I soon developed many of the famous Safety Travel of St. Vincent. We now have a deeper attributes of the Caribbean marine snail. understanding of the nature of the island, After conching it up, you don’t move very far. Or very quickly. Kevin Pilley as well as a good excuse to enjoy a well- Sulpher Springs, deserved rum cocktail back at the La Soufrière The Turks and Caicos Conch Festival is held on the beach bar. last weekend of November.

58 59 worldnomads.com

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL Getty Images / by Mike Lyvers Getty Images / by Mike THE “NATURE ISLAND”: Welcome TRIP NOTES 4 ECO- GETTING THERE Several local airlines fly to Dominica from other Caribbean islands. There are occasional Food, Music Music Food,

ferries from Martinique, & Culture ADVENTURES Guadeloupe, and St. Lucia. Hire a car with a driver to get around Dominica. HOT SPRINGS Wotten Waven is 15

ON DOMINICA minutes from Roseau. Discoveries With its diverse sea life, 365 rivers, and nine active volcanoes, Entrance for visitors is US $10. You can store Dominica is rich in natural wonders – and sustainable ways to your belongings at the Rainforest waterfall enjoy it all. Lola Mendez makes the most of them. covered benches by each pool. SNORKELING AT CHAMPAGNE BEACH his 29mi (47km) long, 16mi (26km) wide an unpretentious outdoor spa in the middle rare phenomena of small gas bubbles rising rock slides gets us down the face of six Snorkel tours are & Nature island, one of the Lesser Antilles in the of the jungle, but only a 15-minute drive from from the volcanic seafloor. The venting waterfalls and into cool natural pools. It’s US $30 a person Wildlife Eastern Caribbean, was dubbed with the capital, Roseau. I’m the only foreigner A series of attracts a slew of sea creatures and I see a intimidating and adrenaline-inducing at including equipment, T Marine Park fees, the Latin word for Sunday by Christopher here, but am warmly welcomed by locals. thrilling jumps, school of squid for the first time, and catch times – especially during a hair-raising, 25ft and a trained guide. Columbus in 1493. Roseau is its major port After soaking in the hot water pools, I dash rappels, and a glimpse of an octopus, scorpionfish, and a (8m) jump off a waterfall. Guided kayak snorkel and capital city. Environmental sustainability into freezing freshwater, streaming out of an sea turtle near the Scott’s Head Peninsula. tours are US $50 per rock slides person. Groups of four

is inherent here. It was the first nation to industrial pipe to form a shower. Indigenous Adventure gets us down Foraging for food with a local chef or more can be picked be certified by the Green Globe program flowers scent the air as I settle in for a long, Lessons in rappelling down I’m vegan, and foraging is one of my favorite up in Roseau for an for sustainable development in 2005. This warm soak in the rustic, outdoor copper the face of a waterfall travel experiences – to me, one of the best additional US $25 per person. adoration of nature has made the island a tub, with the cascading waterfall in the six waterfalls There are more than 12 officially named ways to discover a destination is through its phenomenal place for eco-adventures. background as my soundtrack. and into cool waterfalls in Dominica, and it’s possible food. I meet Grant Lynott, executive chef of RAPPELLING WATERFALLS natural pools to rappel down the cascades. I join a Zing Zing restaurant at the Secret Bay eco- A half-day tour Visiting the hot springs Snorkeling at Champagne Reef beginner’s course with Extreme Dominica, resort, on a backyard-to-table nature walk, starts at US $159 per person and includes to Know

Dominica has one of the world’s highest I have heard about Dominica’s Champagne and after gearing up, we receive training on harvesting ingredients for a meal straight Need equipment, a local concentrations of dormant volcanoes, which Reef, one of the few places on earth where how to rappel across a canyon, starting with from the source. guide, and pick up

lend themselves to epic hikes such as the it’s possible to snorkel above a volcano. I’m It’s important to check an 8ft (2.5m) ledge, which helps take the Armed with a wicker basket and a pair of in Roseau. No prior famous Boiling Lake trek, an 8-hour round with the responsible tour operator Nature you’ve purchased the edge off my reasonable fear of jumping from gardening shears, we peruse the resort’s experience is required. Bring swimwear and trip with an elevation of 2,600 ft (790m). Island Dive, and I’m not sure what to expect, right level of travel taller heights. organic food gardens. We pluck hibiscus insurance cover and closed footwear. Travel Safety Travel After exploring Dominica’s mountainous but am hoping to see the effervescence have the appropriate The terrain is easy to traverse – just a flowers and wild herbs for seasoning, FORAGING qualifications for your terrain, I’m eager to soothe my body in the caused by geothermal activity. moderate fitness level is needed, and including moringa, sorrel, and bay leaves. The foraging chosen adventure sport experience is US $182 natural, hot sulfur springs the island is known Our expert snorkeling guide, Dizzy, picks before you leave home. there’s an 11-year-old on our tour. We hike I'm surprised to discover there are plants I for. I stroll between heated dipping pools, up her speed and fins towards a scene Still not sure if you’re through the verdant jungle into a canyon had no idea were edible, including papaya per group (two to four people) and must be mud oozing between my toes, at the locally straight out of a nature film. Nature herself covered? Check your and make our way along a mossy gorge. seeds, which can be used to make pepper, policy for more details. booked in advance owned Ti Kwen Glo Cho in Wotten Waven, is tickling me, as I joyfully swim through the A series of thrilling jumps, rappels, and and love trying their unique flavors. at https://secretbay.dm.

60 61 worldnomads.com Plymouth SEEK EXPERIENCES remains Plymouth,

the Caribbean Images / Richard Roscoe Getty Images / Stocktrek

Capital Closed Welcome to the Public Food, Music Music Food,

In 1997, a volcanic eruption buried two-thirds of & Culture Montserrat under a layer of ash and lava. Gary Meenaghan takes us into the “exclusion zones.”

ontserrat is a yin-yang of an island. Discoveries The hospitable north features Mlush tropical foliage, black-sand beaches, and wonderful tranquility; the soulless south offers a modern-day Pompeii, complete with abandoned churches, a hotel-turned-horror-film-set, & Nature and a clock tower poking its head out of Wildlife the ashen earth like a mole in spring. I’m here to experience both. Located 30mi (48km) southwest of Antigua, in the Lesser Antilles, this tiny engulfed almost two-thirds of the island rich coffee shop, while his son Sunny runs mingle with the likes of The Rolling Stones

British Overseas Territory changed forever in an avalanche of ash. Like something customized, guided tours. As expected and Sir Paul McCartney, both of whom Adventure in the ’90s, when the Soufrière Hills volcano out of an apocalyptic novel, much of the on an islet measuring 40mi2 (100km2), the recorded albums at the nearby AIR Studios. awoke after centuries of dormancy and south now falls within “exclusion zones” too Leas are well known, and Sunny is able to But the music stopped in September, 1989 dangerous to explore on foot. obtain the necessary permissions to take us when Hurricane Hugo devastated the studio into the exclusion zones. As we drive past and severely damaged the hotel. Not long Much of the A family legacy forged in lava various warning signs, the greenery fades after reopening, another uninvited guest building On June 25, 1997, American expat David to gray, and I feel excited and intrigued, made itself known, as smoke and groans

hides under to Know

Lea captured astonishing footage of the but never unsafe, courtesy of Sunny’s emanated from Soufrière Hills. Authorities Need volcano’s most violent eruption. Debris professionalism, prodigious knowledge, evacuated 6,000 Monserratians from the a thick carpet

blasted 8mi (13km) into the air, and rocks and passion for the island. southern region before it was eviscerated. of volcanic the size of houses were thrown down the I’m standing by the hotel swimming pool, debris, hillside. A superheated tsunami of ash and The ruins of a resort but I wouldn’t recommend diving in unless Getty Images / Stocktrek Images / Richard Roscoe Getty Images / Stocktrek lava swamped the capital city of Plymouth Back in the 1980s, Montserrat was a you wish to disappear into a tangle of forcing me Safety Travel within minutes, melting everything from hotspot for celebrities, and the lavish undergrowth. Much of the building hides to stoop as asphalt to glass to roof tiles. David’s Montserrat Springs Hotel was its jewel. under a thick carpet of volcanic debris, I pass from footage is exhibited at the Montserrat Located 2mi (3km) north of Plymouth, the forcing me to stoop as I pass from room room to Plymouth Courthouse Building Volcano Observatory. resort offered its guests fashion shows, to room. A shower curtain hangs on its Now, 22 years on, he runs a memorabilia- opulent brunches, and the chance to rail, the bathtub buried beneath my feet. room

62 63 worldnomads.com

SEEK EXPERIENCES

TRIP NOTES GETTING THERE Getty Images / John Seaton Callahan We paid US $55 (EC $150) each way for

Getty Images / Derek Galon the 90-minute ferry UNFORGETTABLE from Heritage Quay in Antigua to Little Bay in

Montserrat. Under-12s Surf Trippin’ Welcome pay less, and free WiFi is available onboard. in Panama SPECIFIC COSTS On a particularly hot, humid, and surf-less Montserrat charges January day on the Pacific Coast of Costa a departure tax of Rica, I get a text message from a friend US $9.25 (EC $25),

and Antigua US $28 promising a swell in the Caribbean. Music Food, (EC$75) for stays & Culture exceeding 24 hours A day later, I cross the Panamanian border on either island. Both to Changuinola, and catch a one-hour customs offices only speedboat bound for Isla Colon in Bocas del accept cash, but Toro province. Plymouth remains Montserrat will stamp your passport with a After our first surf at a punchy wave called green shamrock – a Paunch, we replenish at a signless roast Discoveries hat-tip to the island’s chicken joint behind a chain-link fence. Ice- proud Irish roots. Administrative documents – including one prayer that once acted as a refuge shelter cold Balboa cervezas accompany the salty TOURS chicken and neon-orange habanero sauce. for hurricane insurance – lie strewn across are being slowly swallowed by jungle. Only a handful of an office desk. Either staff expected the tour companies exist The next day, the entire town of Bocas in Montserrat, and evacuation to be temporary, or they left in More than a disaster zone gathers in the plaza as the President of excursions start a panic. Back on the bright side of the border, Panama arrives by helicopter. Running down from around US $50 & Nature Wildlife Wildlife there’s more to Montserrat than its (EC $135). Visitors in the nick of time, we are able to shake The half-buried remains of Plymouth notorious mountain. Intrepid travelers can intending to enter the hand of Ricardo Martinelli as he works Out in the garden, Sunny points towards experience the Caribbean as it used to Plymouth should the crowd. ensure their guide can the horizon. To the right lies the be: free of cruise ships, mega resorts, and obtain the necessary Meanwhile, we’ve heard about a secret wave aquamarine ocean, to the left, the active overpriced seafood. The local population permits, which cost on Isla Bastimentos that you can only access US $100 (EC $270) per volcano capped with an ominous, sulfurous fell from 13,000 in 1994 to as little as 1,200 by hiking to it. Adventure person. For a list of cloud. Between them is the lifeless space three years later; now it’s back up to a operators, go to www. After more than an hour of trudging through where Plymouth used to be. Through healthy 5,000. VisitMontserrat.com. the jungle in sticky, sandal-snapping mud, binoculars, I can see what appears to be a Staring out at this undeveloped we find a surf spot. We know it's the one, wigwam, which Sunny tells me is in fact the landscape, the luxuriant jungle and smoking because the secret is out: six other surfers steeple of a church. The way it protrudes volcano seem prehistoric – but instead of sit waiting for a wave. We paddle out and say from the sea of cinders makes me think of dinosaurs, goats graze, and chameleons hello. Within minutes, one of the other surfers to Know

an ashen iceberg. hide in plain sight. Go in September and shouts, “BULL SHARK!” Need It’s possible to visit Plymouth and the you might even spot turtles nesting at Lime I nearly walk on water as I paddle to the

base of the volcano, which last erupted Kiln Bay, a calm, black-sand cove. shore, grab my broken Havaianas, and sprint in 2013, but I’m traveling with my toddler On the way back to our homestay, back to the docks. daughter and Sunny is uneasy about Sunny stops the car by a freshwater spring getting too close in case we need to marked Runaway Ghaut. A sign above the That night, we celebrate our misadventures Safety Travel make a quick evacuation. We head back fount reads: “If you drink at this burn, to at the local bars. Since I’ve already lost one pair of thongs and know of a swim-up northwards, noting the change in landscape Montserrat you will return.” My time on this cantina, I put a protective layer of duct-tape as the wasteland gradually cedes to enchanting isle is nearing its end. I put my on my feet in lieu of shoes. Going shoeless vegetation clearly thriving in the mineral- mouth to the water and gulp down as much pays off when we have to swim, fully clothed, rich soil. Abandoned homes and a house of as I can. to the last boat back to Isla Colon. Audrey Hills

64 65 worldnomads.com Climate & Weather Getty Images / Stefan Auth Getty Images / Stefan

Getty Images / Patrice Coppee Getty Images / Patrice Featuring mountains, deserts, and rainforests, the vast Caribbean region is more than

just palm-fringed beaches. Welcome

From Jamaica’s steamy mangrove swamps to the occasionally snowy top of Pico Duarte in the Dominican Republic, Food, Music Music Food,

the Caribbean’s weather is as diverse as & Culture its natural environment. The entire region benefits from its proximity to the equator – from about 1,700mi (2,735km) in the northern Caribbean to around 621mi (1,000km) on

Panama’s Caribbean coast – leading to Discoveries warm temperatures, usually between 25- Getty Images / Westend61 33°C (77-90°F). That being said, there’s marked variation in climate across the thousands of islands and the surrounding The Caribbean experiences a period TRAVEL SMARTER mainland nations. of dry, warm weather from December to A huge variety of wildlife inhabits April, and a wet season, that stretches & Nature Climate & Weather 67 the rainforests and reefs that abound from May to November, with the highest Wildlife Responsible Travel 68 throughout the Caribbean, which is risk of hurricanes and tropical storms Sea Turtle Conservation Tips 70 considered a biodiversity hotspot. occurring between June and November. Finding activities that help you explore Transport options, including flight or ferry NEED Getting Around 71 the environment is easy, and can provide schedules, can be affected by inclement

Festival Calendar 72 valuable information regarding local weather, so it’s important to stay updated Adventure conservation efforts and projects aimed and trust the decisions made by local TO KNOW at safeguarding the region’s natural operators. Ready to explore your boundaries and plan your capital for future generations. The Caution is always warranted when own Caribbean adventure? First, check out our Many islands and mainland nations, Caribbean booking holidays during the wet season, expert tips to help you travel smarter and more such as Puerto Rico, in the eastern experiences but remember that the region is vast, and Caribbean, and Costa Rica and Belize, that a severe weather event occurring responsibly. What’s the best way to get around? a period of to Know in Central America, feature warm, humid somewhere in the area is not always Need When’s the best time to go? How can you help tropical weather. Meanwhile, the southern dry, warm likely to affect your own destination.

protect the local environment and support the Caribbean islands of Aruba, Bonaire, weather from Responsible travelers should monitor local economy? Learn all that and more. and Curaçao tend to have a drier tropical December to reports from the Global Disaster and climate, evident in their savannah-like April, and a Coordination System (GDACS) and Travel Safety Travel landscapes and broadleaf forest. More wet season, other official sources. But refrain from temperate climates can be found on the instantly cancelling your vacations when elevated terrain of mountainous islands that stretches a hurricane hits the news, and instead such as Dominican Republic, Haiti, from May to contact your hotels and listen to local or Jamaica. November authorities and advice. James Ellsmoor

66 67 worldnomads.com

Making responsible choices reminder of the problems facing the Responsible Helping to preserve beautiful landscapes various nations that make up the region, and rich biodiversity doesn’t have to be but these events are rare and should not left to scientists and politicians – as a put off potential visitors. Travel in the traveler, you can contribute by making Sensational headlines tend to be rife responsible choices. on those occasions that severe weather Caribbean Air travel has been put under the does occur, so ensure that any information A sustainability expert offers his spotlight as a major source of carbon you heed comes from local sources that

tips for minimizing your impact, emissions, but there are solutions for the are aware of the current conditions at Welcome eco-conscious traveler. Buying carbon your destination. Tourism makes a vital encouraging ecotourism, and helping offsets for flights is one popular option, contribution to the region’s economy, the local economy. as it enables you to donate to various so it’s important to make informed projects based in the region, ensuring decisions, as your choice to cancel does From conservation success stories your contribution stays local. not just affect you, but can have serious Food, Music Music Food,

to unprecedented environmental If you’re looking for an experience that local repercussions and cause further & Culture degradation, tourism can be a double- you won’t find within the all-inclusive economic damage. edged sword, but more and more resorts that dot the beachfront, there The tourism industry and the travelers are embracing responsible forms are many alternative forms of retreat As an environmental sector haven't always of travel. In the Caribbean, that often that blend tourism and sustainability. ecotourist, the been on the same page, but they are means looking beyond the typical cruises Evident in Guyana becoming the world’s responsibility intertwined. Ecotourism protects both and all-inclusive resorts and exploring top ecotourism location, and Aruba to protect the the local environment and the economy, Discoveries the region’s unique cultures and pioneering agroforestry-based tourism, environment by ensuring that future generations can incredible landscapes. Getty Images / Jupiterimages the region is adding an environmental flair is shared enjoy the same natural beauty that has A global biodiversity hotspot, home to its breathtaking panoramas and rich long defined the Caribbean. Responsible to many endemic species, Caribbean impact on the Caribbean’s sustainability. cultural history. between you tourists are driving the sustainable ecosystems are admired by scientists, From coral bleaching to plastic waste As an ecotourist, the responsibility and your host development of the region, one vacation locals, and visitors alike. Sustainable and large deposits of sargassum algae to protect the environment is shared community at a time. James Ellsmoor & Nature tourism is a growing industry in the washing ashore, the Caribbean has been between you and your host community. Wildlife region, and it contributes to both the first to witness the detrimental impact By choosing environmentally friendly economic development and successful of climate change on the environment. resorts, joining local conservation efforts conservation efforts. But the region is also taking action, such as The Sea Turtle Conservancy, When traveling throughout the taking the lead in environmental efforts and learning about the region’s ecology,

Caribbean, you’ll notice that the region such as cleaning up the oceans. Most of you not only expand your knowledge of Adventure is slowly emerging as a leader in the islands have already taken the step sustainable practices, you help to drive Getty Images / Jochem D Wijnands sustainability, through efforts such as to preserve their local environment by conservation efforts. adopting renewable energy and banning banning plastics. As Cheryl Carter, the single-use plastic. It offers countless When UK Director of the Barbados Tourism Supporting the regional economy opportunities to actively participate in traveling Marketing Inc., explains: “Banning single- As a result of the increasing popularity responsible tourism and help drive the use plastics goes some way to ensuring of ecotourism in the Caribbean, more throughout to Know environmental movement. the protection of our pristine beaches and more eco-conscious travelers have Need the Caribbean and crystal-clear waters that we are visited the region. However, a 2017 report

Ecotourism vs overtourism nations, you’ll famous for. As a destination, however, by the World Travel & Tourism Council The Caribbean has been a victim of its notice that we realize that our sustainability efforts notes that despite the region’s popularity, own success in attracting sun, sand, cannot stop there, and we are proud to misconceptions regarding the severity

the region Safety Travel and sea vacationers. In 2016, 46.7 is slowly say we are embracing many conservation and location of storms in the Caribbean million people experienced the islands’ projects and methods across the island, have discouraged tourists from traveling lush rainforests and coral reefs, but emerging as from driving electric cars to biodynamic to the area. The destruction caused by overtourism, a polluting cruise industry, a leader in farming. We are excited for a more Hurricane Dorian and Tropical Storm and climate change have had a negative sustainability sustainable future.” Humberto in 2019 serves as a stark

68 69 worldnomads.com Sea Turtle Getting Conservation Around With large expanses of water Tips separating many Caribbean Wanting to help these amazing destinations, getting around

creatures thrive is commendable – can be a challenge. Welcome but it’s important to go about it the right way. While all-inclusive package holidays are ubiquitous in the Caribbean, travelers Around the Caribbean, many beachfront who want to explore their own way will Getty Images / Richard Cummins Food, Music Music Food,

hotels offer guests the opportunity to get to experience the region from a totally & Culture participate in sea turtle conservation different perspective. Backpackers are Island transport programs. While this sounds like a helpful still infrequent, but for the adventurous Transport within the islands tends to be activity, it can be misleading. traveler with an open mind, it can be a relatively easy, but can sometimes be It’s important to ensure the program highly rewarding opportunity. expensive. Taxis are usually a safe option is properly managed and not harmful but require the same common sense that

to the turtles. Here’s how to find sea Flights you would employ at home. Local buses Discoveries turtle-friendly hotels and conservation Getty Images / pidjoe Many flights to the region transit through on many islands provide an affordable experiences. Miami/Fort Lauderdale or Panama, but alternative, but you may have to ask beachfront properties that emit bright, there are direct flights from various US, around to work out the schedules and Conscientious hatchling releases disorienting lights. Turtle-friendly lighting Canadian, and European cities to some routes. In Jamaica, the Knutsford Express Many hotels operate turtle hatcheries directs light down to the ground, shields islands. Traveling between islands can provides a reliable, comfortable option and allow visitors to participate in the the light source from being visible from be surprisingly difficult and expensive, with air conditioning and Wi-Fi, and serves & Nature release of hatchlings. But hatcheries are the beach, and is outfitted with a red or meaning any multi-island trip requires most major towns on the island. Wildlife controversial and strongly discouraged, amber LED light bulb. advance planning. The regional carrier except as a last resort to protect nests LIAT links many destinations in the Ferries from erosion, predation, or poaching by Removing beach furniture Eastern Caribbean, but you’ll often hear Despite its beautiful waters and the short humans. Resorts that allow visitors to Furniture left on the beach overnight the joke that the acronym stands for distances between islands, the Caribbean

release hatchlings often do so in ways can pose a great danger for nesting “Leave Island Any Time”, serving as a lacks an extensive ferry network. Fort Adventure that are detrimental. When hatchlings sea turtles that become entangled, or playful warning to travelers. Lauderdale, Florida to Freeport, Grand emerge naturally from a nest, they almost are prevented from reaching a suitable Bahama is the only regular ferry link always do so at night, and for good habitat. Hotels truly committed to between the region and the United States, reason – they are less visible to predators. protecting nesting sites will remove beach and services departing from South or Despite its Unfortunately, many turtle releases for furniture at night, or at least stack it out Hotels truly Central America are available from only a beautiful visitors occur in daytime. Opt for a night- of the way. handful of ports to nearby islands. committed waters and to Know time, guided turtle walk instead, or insist Domestic ferry links are common within Need that hatchlings are released at night and Straws or other single-use plastics to protecting countries to their smaller islands, such the short

in large groups so they stand a better About 80% of the plastic debris in the nesting sites as from Trinidad to Tobago, Grenada to distances chance of survival. ocean comes from land. Oceanfront will remove Carriacou, St. Vincent to the Grenadines, between properties have to be especially mindful and within the Bahamas archipelago. One

beach islands, the Safety Travel Turtle-friendly hotel lighting of their plastic use because items can furniture at of the best options for an international Caribbean It was once easy for hatchlings to find the easily fly away from the beach and end island trip is with the L'Express des Îles ocean, because the brightest horizon on up in the stomachs of sea turtles. Hotels night, or at ferries running frequently to connect lacks an a natural beach is in the direction of the should provide paper straws, or offer least stack it the islands of Dominica, Guadeloupe, extensive Getty Images / Katja Heinemann Getty Images / Katja water. Now, many coasts are lined with plastic only on request. Lexie Beach out of the way Martinique, and St. Lucia. James Ellsmoor ferry network

70 71 worldnomads.com

a cricket match, but also features parades, Festival Calendar dancing, and gambling (in the form of the dice game Crown and Anchor). Honoring traditions both local and those Alternates every year between St. George’s and brought here from around the world, Caribbean Getty Images / isitsharp Somerset parishes festivals are a memorable way to discover the region’s food, music, and diverse culture. October Feria de Río Tigre

Members of the Guna tribe, one of the last Welcome indigenous tribes of the Caribbean, gather Carnival from around the Guna Yala archipelago Originally a pre-Lenten celebration, this for a four-day craft fair, feasts, games, and boisterous street parade takes place at This vibrant traditional dancing. other times of the year on some islands. Hindu festival Isla Tigre, Guna Yala, Panama Food, Music Music Food,

Events typically feature elaborate is observed & Culture costumes and floats. The biggest, by the whole October/November oldest, and most famous Carnival in the community in Divali Caribbean is held in the two days before Trinidad and The Hindu festival of lights, dedicated to Ash Wednesday in Port of Spain, Trinidad. the goddess Lakshmi, is by far the most Tobago prominent of the East Indian celebrations

March on Trinidad and Tobago – in fact, it’s a Discoveries Holi national holiday, observed by people of Celebrating the first day of spring, this all denominations. Deyas (clay lamps) vibrant Hindu festival is observed by are lit by the millions, and free public the whole community in Trinidad and performances of music, theater, and Barbados Crop Over festival Tobago. The festival’s highlight involves dance are held around the country. celebrants – clad in white for maximum Trinidad and Tobago (also other countries with large & Nature effect – throwing brightly colored powder Late April East Indian populations) Wildlife and liquid on each other. National Family Island Regatta island would hold a festival entirely Trinidad and Tobago (also other countries with large This annual event began in 1954 with dedicated to this fruit. The four-day event Last weekend of November East Indian populations) the intention of keeping Bahamian boat features culinary competitions, cooking Turks and Caicos Conch Festival building and sailing traditions alive. Boats classes, and demonstrations. The islands celebrate their cult-like

must be designed, built, owned, and Island-wide regard for this giant mollusc with a conch Adventure Divali sailed by Bahamians. fritter-eating contest, a conch-knocking Great Exuma, The Bahamas July/August The entire contest, a conch-peeling competition, and Crop Over island shuts a conch-blowing tournament. May Founded in the 1780s, this festival down for Providenciales Maypole Festival traditionally marked the end of the sugar this two-day A traditionally English event with a very harvest. It’s now a massive, five-week Dec 26 and Jan 1 event, which to Know Caribbean spin, this month-long festival event that includes folk concerts, carnival Junkanoo Need consists of rotating neighborhood shows, masquerade parades, flower is centered According to some sources, this iconic

block parties, Maypole dances, beauty festivals, and all kinds of other live around Bahamian masquerade began in the 18th pageants, and street parades. entertainment. a cricket century as a holiday granted to slaves by Bluefields, Nicaragua Bridgetown, Barbados their owners. A celebration of Bahamian

match, but Safety Travel also features culture, with elements of social commentary, Early July Early August it features imaginatively costumed dancers Nevis Mango & Food Festival Bermuda Cup Match parades, accompanied by goatskin drums, whistles, More than 40 varieties of mango are The entire island shuts down for this dancing, and bugles, and cowbells. Gaetty Images / Jeneil S grown on Nevis, so it makes sense the two-day event, which is centered around gambling The Bahamas

72 73 worldnomads.com Passports,

Visas & Getty Images / MCCAIG Getty Images / Stefan Auth Getty Images / Stefan Getty Images / Didier Marti Currency So you've planned your trip,

but have you got your visa? It's Welcome arguably the most important thing to do before you go. Here are a few tips to make the visa application process easy. Getty Images / fanjianhua Food, Music Music Food, & Culture

Before you go Passport protection Travelers from many countries can If you’re staying in accommodation on visit the Caribbean without a visa, but an island, avoid carrying your passport Even if you’re agreements between countries vary. around with you. Lock it in the hotel safe only visiting

Trinidad and Tobago, for example, has if possible – leaving it on the beach an island for Discoveries agreements in place for visa-free travel while you take a dip creates an easy a day trip, it’s for citizens of many countries around the opportunity for thieves. It’s also wise to Taxi in Havana still a good world – but not all. While residents of the leave a copy of your passport back at idea to have European Union, the US, UK, and many the hotel (ideally in the lining or locked, TRAVEL SMARTER other countries can travel without a visa, zippered section of your suitcase), and a visa pre- Australians and New Zealanders need to email an additional copy to someone you arranged & Nature Passports, Visas & Currency 75 secure a visa on arrival, while travelers trust before you leave home. for all Wildlife 10 Travel Safety Tips 76 from other countries need to arrange one If you do have to carry your passport, destinations Travel Cons to Avoid 79 before they leave home. conceal it under your clothes in a that require Even if you’re only visiting an island for waterproof cover. Sweat, humidity, and TRAVEL Law & Crime 80 a day trip, it’s still a good idea to have a water can damage the pages to the point them

Health & Hygiene 83 visa pre-arranged for all destinations that your passport no longer passes muster. Adventure Essential Insurance Tips 84 require them. Fingers crossed this doesn’t SAFETY happen to you, but a serious health issue Currency Idyllic and beautiful though it may be, the requiring urgent medical attention or an Visa, Amex, and MasterCard are accepted issue with your transportation may mean in well-visited areas, and US dollars are Caribbean region poses its share of risks you need to spend more time in a place accepted throughout the Caribbean, but for travelers, from crime and corruption to than you anticipated. Already having a if you venture beyond the major tourist to Know

natural hazards. Nomad Joanna Tovia shares visa can make life easier during an already areas, local currency is handy to have. Need her commonsense tips to keep you safe and stressful time. Avoid keeping all your cash together, and

informed, so you can bravely explore. If you’re traveling to the Caribbean via whatever you do, don’t advertise that you the USA, from a country that qualifies for have it by opening your wallet, purse, or an ESTA visa waiver (UK, Australia, and money pouch in a crowd. New Zealand among them), keep in mind Travelers from beyond the US should Safety Travel that the time you spend in the Caribbean change some money into US dollars before may count towards the 90 days you’re they leave home, as exchanging some allowed to spend in the US. The Bahamas currencies for local or US dollars won’t be is one such example. possible once you’re in the Caribbean.

74 75 worldnomads.com

Two years earlier, two Category 5 However, in 2010 a 7.0 earthquake 10 Travel hurricanes swept through the eastern Mudslides, struck Haiti, causing widespread Caribbean, wreaking havoc on Barbuda, devastation. And a recent earthquake Dominica, Puerto Rico, and many other flooding, high (October 2019) measuring an unusual Safety Tips Caribbean islands. seas, and 5.0 on the Richter scale affected the From hurricanes and tropical storms Mudslides, flooding, high seas, and tsunamis can British Virgin Islands, Dominica, Antigua to road safety, LGBTQ+ travel, and tsunamis can accompany severe tropical accompany and Barbuda, Anguilla, and several other storms, which can change direction islands. But the chances of your holiday adventure activities, here are some severe tropical

with little warning. Familiarize yourself destination being affected are slim, when Welcome key issues to keep in mind. with your accommodation’s evacuation storms you consider the number of harmless plan, even when the skies are clear, and earthquakes occurring throughout the monitor media reports during your travels. Caribbean on any given day. Take a look Keeping money and valuables safe If a hurricane is approaching, find out at Earthquake Track for a glimpse into the You can withdraw local currency from early if and where evacuation shelters are past 24 hours. Food, Music Music Food,

ATMs, but take care to cover your PIN. being set up. Be aware that flights out may & Culture There have been reports of foreign be suspended until winds subside enough Transport safety visitors being robbed after withdrawing for safe takeoffs. If airports and ferry ports Driving: The easygoing island vibe is money. A travel companion who can act sustain damage, your “getaway” may be one reason travelers love coming to the as a look-out while you’re focused on the longer than you anticipated. Caribbean, but this laidback attitude ATM is advisable. Rising sea levels and higher comes with a few dangers, especially Getty Images / Bloomberg Creative If you’ve hired a car, avoid locking temperatures resulting from climate on the roads. Even if there are speed Discoveries valuables such as cameras and mobile change mean hurricanes in the Caribbean limits, they may not be enforced, driving devices inside. Car break-ins are common the local stigma around homosexuality. As are becoming more intense. That doesn’t under the influence of alcohol or drugs and locals can often identify hire cars a result, few locals feel safe revealing their mean you should avoid the area, but is commonplace, and road rules such as by their license plates, alerting them to sexual orientation. traveling during peak hurricane season signaling to turn or change lanes are a potential goldmine inside. Conceal More welcoming are LGBTQ+-friendly is not advised. The risk of hurricanes is often disregarded. anything you don’t want stolen in the islands such as Puerto Rico, St. Barts, St. lowest between December and April, with If you’re venturing out of town, road & Nature glovebox or under a seat. Martin, and St. Croix. the added benefit of lower rainfall and conditions may not be what you’re used to Wildlife While resorts throughout the Caribbean less humid weather. (think potholes, sketchy road markings, and are typically accepting of all sexual Some islands are more susceptible to unsealed stretches) and can be subject to LGBTQ+ travel orientations, if you’re traveling beyond hurricanes than others. Aruba, Barbados, flooding during tropical downpours. Even where same-sex relationships such accommodation on the more Curaçao, and Grenada lie just south of the If you’re visiting more than one island,

are legal, attitudes are still on the conservative islands, it may pay to hurricane belt and rarely get hit head-on. keep in mind that on some driving is on Adventure conservative side in some Caribbean be discreet. Rarely doesn’t mean never, of course, so the left and on others driving is on the countries. if you do get caught in a hurricane or Homosexual relations are illegal in Natural disasters severe storm, stay inside, away from these eastern Caribbean countries Hurricanes: These are an unfortunate Hurricane windows and doors, to protect yourself and territories (sometimes for males reality in the region, particularly between Dorian, which from flying debris. only): Antigua and Barbuda, Barbados, June and November. The Global Disaster and Coordination struck in to Know

Dominica, Grenada, Guyana, Jamaica, Hurricane Dorian, which struck in System (GDACS) is the travel companion Need Saint Lucia, Saint Kitts and Nevis, and September 2019, was the most intense September you need in case of a hurricane or

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines. tropical cyclone on record to strike 2019, was the earthquake. The site provides satellite Holding hands or kissing a same-sex The Bahamas, and the worst natural most intense imagery, advisory information, and alerts. partner in public may attract negative disaster the country has endured. Grand tropical Earthquakes: The Caribbean is an active Travel Safety Travel attention. Criminal prosecutions of Bahama and Abacos bore the brunt of cyclone on seismic zone but, although tremors are travelers are rare, but prison sentences the Category 5 hurricane, but many of common, earthquakes rarely exceed a range from five years to life. And the the 700 islands in The Bahamas escaped record to magnitude of 3.0. Knowing this should existence of gross indecency laws in unscathed, and tourism is already strike The provide some peace of mind if the earth these countries does nothing to curtail bouncing back. Bahamas begins to shudder beneath you. Getty Images / Jeff Greenberg

76 77 worldnomads.com

right – usually as a legacy of its colonial how to identify reputable taxis). history. In Barbados and Jamaica, for Before you set off, be sure to agree on a Travel Cons to Avoid example, you’ll be driving on the left, but Don’t be price with the taxi driver, check accepted on the right in Honduras and Puerto Rico. surprised if payment methods, and test that the Even in paradise, criminals are adept at coming up Complicating matters is the fact that your bus or seatbelts work. If you’re hiring a scooter with novel ways to fleece the unsuspecting visitor. the steering wheel is usually on the left taxi driver or bicycle to get around, be sure to wear Here are 10 common scams to watch out for: regardless of which side of the road you’re navigates the a helmet. required to drive on, simply because cars roads with

are typically imported from the US. Adventure safety Police scams: imposters posing as police Clever sales people can push you into Welcome Public transport: Getting around using cell phone in Parasailing, scuba diving, horse riding on officers, security, or military personnel that signing up, but if you change your mind, public transport may seem wiser than hand – new the beach – if all goes well, vacationing in signal cars to pull over and ask drivers for be sure to back out within five days. It Common driving, but this option also has risks legislation is the Caribbean can be non-stop fun. Being a “donation”. A scruffy uniform is a dead can be time-consuming and expensive to Scams in worth knowing about. Buses may be making this smart about it can minimize the chance of giveaway, but take care, because they cancel after that. The Bahamas poorly maintained, drivers may have accidents, keeping in mind that services may be armed. Request identification, Unregulated jet ski

illegal on hire operators in The Music Food,

varying levels of training, and buses are may not be as organized or efficient as and if they try to give you a fine and Overcharging taxi drivers: agree on a & Culture some islands, Bahamas are known subject to the same hazards on the roads you’d expect back home. expect you to pay it on the spot, ask for price for the trip before you get in. to overcharge or call as cars and taxis. but laws may The first step is to check whether the a ticket instead. you back before your Don’t be surprised if your bus or taxi not be strictly activities you have in mind are covered Phony friends: relationships that are time is complete, and may not follow proper driver navigates the roads with cell phone enforced under your travel insurance policy, and Hidden fees: “all-inclusive” tours that fail more about money than love. Locals can safety procedures. in hand – new legislation is making this what the conditions of that cover might be. to mention all the extras you’ll have to pay seem genuine in forming a relationship, Be sure to rent from

illegal on some islands, but laws may not Next, check on the operator’s safety for on the day. Entry fees into attractions, but it soon becomes obvious that their a reputable operator Discoveries recommended by be strictly enforced. and communications equipment before equipment hire, lunch, or drinks may not affections come at a price when money or your hotel or the Reckless driving and a lack of sidewalks booking, and find out if the company is be included, so bring some local currency gifts are requested. tourist office. mean pedestrian accidents are common, registered. Boating and water sports or US dollars just in case. Better yet, Vendors at so take care walking along roadsides operators are poorly regulated on many confirm exactly what’s covered at the time Fake charities: scammers who pretend marketplaces where and crossing the road, especially if you’re of the islands, and if they aren't operating of booking. they are raising money for a good cause prices are negotiated, such as Nassau's Straw used to cars driving on the opposite legally, it could affect your cover. – hurricane recovery/relief, for example.

Market, sometimes & Nature side. Catch registered or clearly marked It’s tempting to throw caution to the wind No free rides: an apparently friendly offer Check that crowdfunding campaigns and hike their prices when Wildlife taxis if you can, rather than ridesharing in when you’re in vacation mode, but using to give you a ride in a moped or canoe charities are the real deal before parting dealing with visitors. Use your bargaining private vehicles or accepting a ride from all available safety equipment, such as to a local attraction for a fee can turn with your cash. Facebook profiles have skills – a general rule someone you just met (your hotel should life jackets, just makes good sense (and if sour when it comes to the return journey. also been impersonated and friends of thumb is to slash be able to book a taxi for you or advise on required by law, must be used). Use another Despite agreeing to the contrary, your contacted for donations. the price in half to start your negotiations.

operator if safety equipment isn’t provided, host is likely to insist you only paid to Adventure and ask for extra training on watercraft if get there – not back – and demand Bogus package deals: too-good-to-be- Getting your hair braided (aka cornrows) you’re unsure how to safely operate it. extra payment. true vacation packages that evaporate is a popular way to Novice horseback riders (or those after you’ve paid for them. If the hotel appreciate Afro- who haven’t ridden for a while) should Lottery scam: you may not even have to isn’t revealed before booking, avoid it. Caribbean culture. Unfortunately, visitors also take care – you may like the idea of leave home for this one. The Jamaican If an association with a resort group is are sometimes tricked galloping along the beach, hair blowing in lottery scam brings at least $100 mentioned, make a phone call to check on into paying exorbitant prices. A fee will be set to Know the wind, but it’s far wiser to don a helmet million into Jamaica each year when the legitimacy of partnerships. Need at the beginning, then and slow down. Falling off a horse can unsuspecting people receive a phone call when the hairstyle

quickly put an end to your vacation fun. informing them they’ve won the lottery. Change rip-offs: paying for meals or is done, the visitor is Your hotel or resort may help you book All they need to do is send money to goods in US dollars and getting local told the fee must be a tour or activity, but they don’t share cover the taxes and fees first. Sounds currency as change presents a prime drastically increased because of the time Travel Safety Travel liability with the operator if an accident legit, right? opportunity for locals to rip off travelers taken or the length of occurs. The operators are independent – mental currency conversions are a your hair. Negotiate a and may not have liability insurance, so Timeshares: promises of riches and challenge for most people on vacation, so price upfront and verify time and hair length you may want to try to find a reputable free holidays that are in fact expensive they may not realize they’ve been given is being considered. Getty Images / South China Morning Post one who does before signing up. investments that deliver little in returns. less change than they deserve. Diedre McLeod

78 79 worldnomads.com Law & Crime The Caribbean may have a laid-back reputation, but it's

not wise to let your guard down Machado Noa Getty Images / Roberto completely. Here's what you can do to help avoid trouble. Welcome

Corruption BANNED It’s no secret that corruption is rife ACTIVITIES Food, Music Music Food,

on many Caribbean islands. Open a CAMOUFLAGE & Culture newspaper and you’re likely to read Military fatigues may be a fashion statement about a case of government or police or serve as everyday corruption serious enough to make wear where you’re headlines. That’s not to say efforts aren’t from, but on several being made to counter corruption, but Caribbean islands they are illegal. deeply entrenched practices aren’t easy Barbados, Jamaica, Discoveries to stamp out. Grenada, Dominica, Travelers are unlikely to be impacted, St. Lucia, and St. Vincent have a zero- Getty Images / Rafa Elias Getty Images / Rafa but rumors of police bribery are tolerance attitude to undoubtedly founded in fact, and camouflage being can leave travelers in trouble feeling Crime further violations. Watch drinks being around bars at night, so try to avoid going worn by anyone who isn’t in the military, powerless. Caribbean islands have varying crime poured, refuse drinks from strangers, and solo, and dress fairly modestly.

whether it’s a hat, bag, & Nature By all means, Wildlife In the Dominican Republic, for example, levels, with murder rates some of the mind your alcohol intake. Both men and women may be wallet, or clothing. kick back with finding yourself involved in a no-fault highest in the world. Most violent crimes approached by prostitutes hustling for DRUGS car accident that results in serious injury are associated with gang warfare a drink or two Harassment paid sex. Some travelers are attracted to Drugs are illegal (and or death will land you in custody for at and drugs, but travelers are definite Impoverished islanders who rely solely on the Caribbean because of its sex tourism dangerously potent) at a beach bar in the Caribbean, least two days. Frustratingly, two days targets when it comes to theft, scams, or nightclub, holidaymakers to earn money can resort industry, but all visitors are potential so it is advisable can stretch into weeks or months. The and assault. but keep an to aggressive tactics to make a sale. An clients in the minds of local sex workers to steer well clear. Adventure Dominican Republic has one of the worst assertive “no” is necessary to ward off as a result. A firm “no” will be called for if Don’t be surprised eye (or hand) if you’re offered rates of auto fatalities in the world, and Drink spiking pushy vendors. this isn’t for you. “ganja” (cannabis) about 80% of those being held in prisons By all means, kick back with a drink or two on your drink Avoid eye contact and keep walking Those who do engage in sexual by a local during as a result have yet to be sentenced. at a beach bar or nightclub, but keep an at all times when vendors or taxi drivers call out encounters should take precautions and your stay. Despite its obvious influence on Corruption can also impact travelers eye (or hand) on your drink at all times. If to you as you’re walking past. If you’re be aware of the risks – the Caribbean is Rastafarian culture in when drug dealers and police work you need to use the restroom or want to pursued, be firm but polite in your refusal second only to Africa in the prevalence Jamaica and beyond, the drug is illegal. If to Know together to trap them into paying bribes. hit the dance floor sans beverage, hand and keep walking. of HIV. Need you’re caught with Travelers who accept an offer to buy it to someone you know and trust, rather Child beggars can pull at your heart marijuana, heroin,

drugs may find themselves having to pay than leaving it on the bar. strings, but their requests for money can Theft cocaine, or any other a substantial sum of money to the police Drink spiking with “date-rape” drugs border on harassment, and giving them Cash, mobile devices, cameras, illegal drug, arrest and officer, who appears out of nowhere to such as GHB and Rohypnol is a known money may encourage them to continue passports, and jewelry are all hot imprisonment is likely. Prison conditions Travel Safety Travel arrest them after making the transaction. problem on many of the islands – begging instead of going to school. commodities in the Caribbean, with theft are crowded and Avoid buying or using any illegal Jamaica, Honduras, and The Bahamas Young women are likely to encounter the most likely crime to affect travelers. unpleasant and substances, and if you do get into strife, among them. After losing consciousness, cat calls and sexual advances from local Resorts often have their own security the justice system questionable. contact your embassy or consulate victims are robbed, assaulted, and then men. Persuasive and even forceful pick-up officers patrolling the entrance and Consider yourself for assistance. abandoned, leaving them vulnerable to strategies are used, particularly in and grounds as a result, but remember to forewarned.

80 81 worldnomads.com

officer, for example). at local restaurants. They’re usually fine, If you hire a car, keep the windows and Health & Hygiene too, but if there are signs it isn’t clean, doors locked. Carjackings happen and avoid it. There are countless cases of food thieves have been known to stop cars by Mosquito-borne diseases, food safety, and water poisoning on the islands each year, often

Getty Images / Juice throwing rocks at them, before robbing Getty Images / Juice contamination are some of the risks to be aware of. caused by improper handling of seafood. drivers at gunpoint. Checking with your accommodation before eating out is a smart move. If Violent crime and sexual assault Water quality you’re dining out on an island where

The Bahamas has one of the highest Safety Tips Drinking-water quality varies throughout you’re concerned about water quality, Welcome rates of rape in the world, with attacks for Solo the Caribbean. If water quality is in avoid unpeeled fresh fruits and uncooked occuring at all times of day. Assaults are Women question, play it safe by drinking bottled vegetables. concentrated near hotels, casinos, and Travelers in water (making sure seals are intact), and nightclubs, as well as beaches after dark. avoid ice cubes in drinks. Or to be more Diseases and vaccinations Jamaica Excess alcohol consumption increases environmentally friendly, treat or boil The World Health Organization (WHO) has

Dress like a local – no Music Food,

the risk of attack, but daytime joggers and water or use water bottles with filters that given most countries in the Caribbean a & Culture “Jamaica” branded young girls have also been targeted. t-shirts and clothing, eliminate harmful bacteria. Category 1 classification when it comes Take the same care no matter which and no fanny packs. Water quality is likely to be affected if to the Zika virus – it is prevalent. Zika island you’re visiting – sexual assaults can They’re one of the a hurricane or serious tropical storm has is particularly dangerous for pregnant quickest ways to and do occur throughout the Caribbean. signal you’re a visitor recently passed through. Swimming off women because of the deformities it can Ask front desk staff about no-go areas and make you a target the coast can also be hazardous after cause fetuses in-utero. The virus spreads

if you want to go out exploring. Jamaica for theft. extended heavy rain and storms, which primarily via mosquito bites, but can also Discoveries declared a state of emergency in parts of Limit all public can cause contaminants to wash into be sexually transmitted. Montego Bay and Nigril this year, imposing displays of affection, the ocean. Check with your hotel before Pregnant women should avoid the regardless of your curfews and dramatically increasing police sexual orientation. taking a dip. Caribbean entirely to avoid exposure to presence to reduce escalating murder Jamaica is a Zika. Travelers should apply mosquito keep the doors and windows of your room rates. Unwittingly wandering into these conservative place Pollution repellant throughout their trip to protect when it comes to this. locked and make use of the safe for any areas can be disastrous. Water and air pollution are unlikely to themselves from not only Zika, but also There are & Nature Don't give detailed Wildlife valuables – or better yet, leave them In Trinidad and Tobago, violent crime be apparent to travelers enjoying the malaria, Dengue fever, Chikungunya virus, information about your countless at home. is on the rise, with travelers advised to itinerary or departure crystal-clear waters and blue skies of Chagas' disease and leishmaniasis – and Theft from rental cars is a concern, and avoid downtown Port of Spain at night date. Many crimes the Caribbean. Action is being taken to cases of food harmless but itchy bites. rental cars and boats themselves are – travelers have become victims of against visitors occur counter the mountains of plastic waste poisoning on Hepatitis A is a viral infection of the liver the night before they susceptible to being stolen for joyriding or robberies and assaults at gunpoint there. leave the island. Give that end up in the region’s oceans, with the islands contracted by consuming contaminated

stripping for parts. Muggings are a potential problem the wrong dates if bans or near-bans on single-use plastic each year, water, food, or ice, and occurs throughout Adventure Motorcycle and moped riders are throughout the Caribbean. Robberies you feel pressured for bags and Styrofoam products. Supporting the islands of the Caribbean. Fortunately, information often caused known to snatch handbags, cell phones, can quickly turn violent if travelers resist businesses that are making an effort to the vaccine for Hepatitis A is safe and Hire drivers from by improper and backpacks slung over one shoulder handing over cash or valuables – losing reputable tour curb emissions and waste is one way to effective. from travelers as they zip past. Valuables them is better than being left with the companies or with protect the local environment. handling of HIV/AIDS is prevalent in the Caribbean, left on the beach while you swim are also trauma and potential injury that come with chartered (registered) seafood particularly The Bahamas, Jamaica, fair game. an assault. taxis. Avoid taking Food safety Trinidad and Tobago, and the Dominican

“route-taxis” that are to Know

Dressing like a local can minimize your filled with only male Hygiene practices at major resorts are Republic. Heterosexual sex, often involving Need chances of standing out as a potential Crowd safety passengers. generally of a high standard, minimizing sex workers, is the most common way HIV

target, no matter your skin color. Avoid Festivals, street celebrations, holidays, To meet local women, the chance you’ll suffer the dreaded is spread in most countries, but in Puerto wearing souvenir t-shirts that identify you and peak times such as Spring Break consider the Jamaica diarrhea that can come with international Rico and Bermuda, HIV infections almost Tourist Board’s “Meet as a foreigner, and pay attention to your draw the crowds, but an increase in visitor the People” program travel. Dysentery and hepatitis, caused by always arise from intravenous drug use. surroundings – if you notice you’re being numbers inevitably leads to a spike in where foreigners consuming contaminated food and water, Practicing safe sex and avoiding drug Safety Travel followed or your belongings are being petty theft. Leave valuables in your hotel are matched with are also unlikely if you’re eating primarily injection is, of course, the way to protect Jamaicans for a scoped out, you’re more likely to have the room safe, and take extra care. Nothing more intimate look at at resorts. yourself. Victims of violent crimes, time to take preventative action (changing kills the festive mood like becoming a Jamaican life. But you’ll be missing out on a lot of especially rape, should seek immediate course, or approaching the nearest police victim of theft. Diedre McLeod delicious food and culture if you don’t eat Calvert Getty Images / Rosemary medical assistance.

82 83 worldnomads.com

responsible behavior. So, best to refrain Browse our guides, Essential Travel Insurance Tips from anything that would be likely to get you in trouble. Also, be sure to check your phrasebooks and The Caribbean islands aren’t always paradise. That’s why there’s policy for exclusions, such as unguided travel insurance. Here are a few situations that you could encounter, dives or search-and-rescue missions. storytelling masterclasses and tips on how you can get the most out of your coverage. Medical emergencies Surfing accidents, sunburn and

Severe weather dehydration, food poisoning, or – heaven Welcome Hurricanes and tropical storms are forbid – an act of violence. Major and among the biggest threats of your trip minor occurrences can happen in the turning upside down. If your flight has Caribbean, and believe us, they do…no been canceled or your hotel is unable matter how careful or prepared you think to accept visitors, you may qualify for noraes / flickr creative commons you are. Food, Music Music Food,

trip cancellation or interruption benefits, The first thing to remember is to contact & Culture depending on your country of residence. the 24/7 Emergency Assistance team, Timing is key here: You need to have who will need to approve your surgical bought your plan before the storm was procedures, medical treatment, or announced. You also won’t be eligible for evacuation before you go forward with coverage if you cancel because of a few them. Otherwise your coverage may be

knocked-down trees or the forecast is reduced or invalidated. Discoveries cloudy and gray. Remember: deductibles may apply; any emergencies due to pre-existing Street crime conditions aren’t included unless Street crime and petty theft, such specified in your policy; and your plan as pickpocketing and mugging, are Whatever the activity, it’s important only covers emergencies, not routine unfortunate realities in the Caribbean. to choose the right level of coverage. or preventative care, such as eyeglass & Nature Should that happen to you, get to safety Read the policy wording, browse the Whatever prescriptions. Wildlife first and go to the local authorities to World Nomads’ Help Center, or contact activity you report the incident (don’t forget to get a our customer service team to see if plan to do, it’s copy of the report). World Nomads’ 24/7 what you’re planning to do is covered All of the information we provide about travel important to insurance is a brief summary only. It does not Emergency Assistance team can give under your plan. You may have to pay choose the include all terms, conditions, limitations, exclusions

you a hand with whatever you need in a an additional premium for an adventure and termination provisions of the travel insurance Your journey starts here. Get off the beaten Adventure crisis, such as helping to locate health sports upgrade or purchase the Explorer right level of plans described. Coverage may not be available track and experience destinations like a local coverage for residents of all countries, states or provinces. with our free travel guides. care facilities or consular services and plan instead of a Standard. Please carefully read your policy wording for a full contacting family members. Certain adventures may also have description of coverage. www.worldnomads.com/explore/guides If your personal belongings get swiped special requirements which, if you don’t under your supervision, besides reporting comply, could affect your coverage. These the incident, you’ll also need the original could be getting certification for your WorldNomads.com Pty Limited (ABN 62 127 485 198 AR 343027) at Governor Macquarie Tower, Level 18, 1 Farrer Place, Sydney, NSW, 2000, Australia is an Authorised to Know receipts for the items. Your policy may have activity or booking the excursion with Need Representative of nib Travel Services (Australia) Pty Ltd (ABN 81 115 932 173 AFSL 308461) (formerly known as Cerberus Special Risks), and is underwritten in Australia per-item and maximum limits and exclude a qualified, licensed operator. It could by XL Insurance Company SE, Australia branch (ABN 36 083 570 441) and in New Zealand by certain underwriters at Lloyd's. World Nomads Travel Lifestyle (Europe) Limited (CN 601852) markets and promotes travel insurance products of nib Travel Services Europe Limited trading as nib Travel Services (CN 601851), First Floor, City

coverage of high-value items or cash. also be as simple as abiding by safety Quarter, Lapps Quay, Cork, Ireland, and underwritten by XL Insurance Company SE and XL Catlin Insurance Company UK Limited. nib Travel Services Europe Limited practices, whether or not they’re required trading as nib Travel Services is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. WorldNomads.com Pty Limited markets and promotes travel insurance products of nib Travel by local law. Services Limited (License No.1446874) (formerly known as Nomadic Insurance Limited), at PO Box 1051, Grand Cayman KY1-1102, Cayman Islands. World Nomads Inc. Adventure Get our (1585422), at 520 3rd Street, Suite 201, Oakland, CA 94607, plans are administered by Trip Mate Inc. (in CA & UT, dba, Trip Mate Insurance Agency) at 9225 Ward Parkway, Travel Safety Travel The Caribbean often feels like a It’s never a good idea to guzzle multiple smart, flexible Suite 200, Kansas City, MO, 64114, USA, with 24-hour and Assistance Services provided by One Call Worldwide Travel Services Network, Inc. and plans underwritten by non-stop adventure, from snorkeling frozen daiquiris before scuba diving, or go Travel Nationwide Mutual Insurance Company and affiliated companies, Columbus, OH. World Nomads (Canada) Ltd (BC: 0700178; Business No: 001 85379 7942 RC0001) is a Insurance licensed agent sponsored by AIG Insurance Company of Canada at 120 Bremner Boulevard, Suite 2200, Toronto, Ontario, M5J 0A8, Canada. World Experiences Seguros in crystal-clear water and trekking hiking solo when you’re just a beginner De Viagem Brasil Ltda (CNPJ: 21.346.969/0001-99) at Rua Padre João Manuel, 755, 16º andar, São Paulo – SP, Brazil is an Authorized Partner (Representante) of Zurich here Minas Brasil Seguros S.A. (CNPJ: 17.197.385/0001-21) at Av. Getúlio Vargas, 1420, 5th floor, Funcionários, Belo Horizonte, State of Minas Gerais through the SUSEP Process amid cloud forests to swimming under and have a poor sense of direction. 15414.901107/2015-77. All World Nomads entities listed above, including nib Travel Services Europe, nib Travel Services Limited and nib Travel Services (Australia) Pty Ltd, cascading waterfalls. Your coverage is contingent upon your are subsidiaries of nib holdings limited (ABN 51 125 633 856).

84 85 worldnomads.com Meet Our Contributors Our writers are world travelers bound by the desire to truly understand the countries they visit. Some are Caribbean locals, some are regional experts, some are seekers of Susan Barnes Lexie Beach James Ellsmoor Getty Images / Simon Dannhauer UNITED STATES UNITED STATES UNITED KINGDOM adventure – but all are nomads at heart. Susan B. Barnes is a As the Communications A digital nomad, James Florida-based travel Coordinator for the has worked and traveled writer, editor, and Sea Turtle Conservancy, in 50+ countries and Welcome photographer. As a Lexie is responsible for consults on topics travlin’ girl, her passport’s all of its communication related to sustainable in hand, ready for her and outreach activities. development and next adventure. entrepreneurship. Food, Music Music Food, & Culture

Bill Fink Audrey Gillan Lebawit Lily Girma Elyse Glickman Audrey Hills Timothy Harper Diedre McLeod UNITED STATES UNITED KINGDOM ETHIOPIA UNITED STATES UNITED STATES UNITED STATES JAMAICA Bill is an award-winning A former Foreign Lily is an award-winning Elyse is Chicago-born, Audrey is a Californian Timothy is an award- Born and raised in travel writer based in Correspondent of travel journalist, L.A.-based, and raised freelance writer winning journalist, Jamaica, Diedre is

California, specializing the Year, Audrey has photographer, and to be curious about who now resides in author, and editor who on a mission to bring Discoveries in adventure travel. He's eschewed war zones guide book author who everywhere. Her Australia. You can has written 12 books, the world closer to tackled hikes in dozens and swapped boil-in- encourages sustainable interests have brought usually find her surfing, and many articles for Caribbean women via of countries across six the-bag rations for the tourism as a vehicle for her to 60 countries and cooking, camping, and leading publications her travel adventures. continents. joy of truly great food. social impact. counting. adventuring. around the world. & Nature Wildlife Wildlife

Diana Lambdin Lola Mendez Gary Meenaghan Sheryl Nance-Nash Tara Nurin Lucy Pierce Kevin Pilley Meyer UNITED STATES UNITED KINGDOM UNITED STATES UNITED STATES UNITED KINGDOM UNITED KINGDOM UNITED STATES Lola Méndez is a Gary is a freelance Sheryl is a freelance A certified beer judge, Lucy is a travel writer A former professional Based in Kansas City, Uruguayan/American journalist with a writer specializing in Tara is the beer/ who has lived in France, cricketer and ex-chief Missouri, travel writer

travel writer and full-time penchant for passport travel, personal finance, spirits contributor to Italy, and Chile. Learning staff writer of Punch Adventure Diana and her husband/ globetrotter who shares stamps. He’s visited and business. Travel Forbes and a writer languages has helped magazine, Kevin's photographer Bruce her adventures on Miss more than 90 countries writing credits include for publications like her connect with travel, humor, lifestyle, have made a habit of Filatelista. and filed stories from AFAR, CNTraveler, and Food & Wine and Wine locals and travel more and food & drink work exploring Caribbean more than 40 of them. Newsweek. Enthusiast. consciously. appears worldwide. islands. to Know Need

Vernon Ramesar Jack Reec Lauren Schenkman Trene Todd Joanna Tovia Polly Thomas Ashley Winchester Talia Wooldridge Kaila Yu Sascha Zuger TRINIDAD UNITED STATES UNITED STATES UNITED STATES AUSTRALIA UNITED KINGDOM UNITED STATES CANADA UNITED STATES UNITED STATES Vernon is a writer and Jack is a journalist and Lauren is a freelance Trene is a food and Joanna is a freelance Freelance editor, travel Ashley is a writer and Talia is a freelance writer Kaila is a travel and Sascha is a travel broadcaster who divides travel writer based in journalist and fiction travel writer based in Los travel writer and writer, and author of editor whose personal and ethnomusicologist food writer based in Los writer, novelist, and his time between the Augusta, Georgia. His writer covering travel, Angeles. A former on- photographer. When multiple guidebooks, motto is “never stop passionate about Angeles. She is the co- PADI Divemaster. After Safety Travel Caribbean and Canada. work has appeared science and technology, camera entertainment not exploring far-flung Polly has been writing learning”. Her work has sustainable music travel, author of the best-selling exploring more than 50 He’s been a news in newspapers and and culture. She lives reporter, she now lands, she’s writing for about the Caribbean appeared in The New hiking, and cycling book 30-Day Travel countries, she’s focusing producer in Trinidad & magazines from Europe between Spain and creates digital food and companies doing good since the 90s. York Times and BBC adventures. Challenge. on writing about her Tobago for 20+ years. to North America. Morocco. travel content. in the world. Travel, among others. adventures.

86 87 worldnomads.com Getty Images / Cavan Thousands of islands, countless adventures; make sure you’re covered. Welcome

Get a Quote Food, Music Music Food, & Culture Discoveries & Nature Wildlife Wildlife Adventure to Know Need

Travel Safety Travel

Trusted by:

88 89