WHERE to LIVE Lot-Et-Garonne Step Back In

WHERE TO LIVE Lot-et-Garonne Step back in

Popular destination Lot-et-Garonne, in south-west France, is packed with plum orchards, pretty villages and a rich medieval history, as Paola Westbeek discovers

timet’s easy to fall in love with Lot-et- Built in a characteristic grid pattern Garonne. The charming rural gem, with an arcaded main square where intersected by the two rivers that commercial activities took place, these give the department its name, ‘new towns’ (villes nouvelles) were boasts gently rolling landscapes established by French and English rulers characterisedI by vineyards, plum orchards between 1152 and 1453 in order to assert and vast fields of towering sunflowers. authority, bring structure to the expanding A welcoming part of France where population and encourage trade. English is almost the second language, Lot-et-Garonne has the largest number the department is a favourite holiday of bastides in Nouvelle-Aquitaine (42 in destination and a popular area for retirees total) and Monflanquin is definitely one or those looking to invest in a second with plenty to offer. Not to be missed is home. Immerse yourself in its rich the annual Médiévales de Monflanquin, a medieval history, taste your way through dynamic two-day festival in mid-August a gastronomic paradise of deeply-rooted that brings the past to life through street culinary traditions and wander through theatre and parades with locals dressed in pretty villages that invite you to stop for a medieval costume, live music, banquets, local wine or a citron-pressé. daring fire performance and much more. One of the quieter bastides in Lot- DISCOVER THE BASTIDES et-Garonne is Miramont-de-Guyenne, Lot-et-Garonne As you walk uphill through the narrow founded by English King Edward I in backstreets that lead to Monflanquin’s 1278. Though there aren’t many major authentically preserved Place des Arcades, attractions, it’s a joy to stroll through the At a it feels as though you’re being transported town’s sleepy streets, stopping along the back in time. On Thursdays, market day, way to admire its two churches: the 13th- glance the main square still buzzes with activity century Église de Beffrey and the Église as it did when the village was founded by Sainte-Marie dating to 1860. Case study Alphonse de Poitiers (brother of Louis IX) At midi, grab a table at Bistrot du 26 An expat tells her story in 1256. Commerce, situated directly in front of Tempting displays of local produce the mairie on Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, and Ask the Agent vie for your attention while cosy terraces experience what a French two-hour lunch 28 Expert property advice under the stone arches seem like the break really is. This friendly bistro serves a ultimate spot to sit back and watch the consistently delicious three-course menu On the market

hustle and bustle. Monflanquin, one of Les which is a hit with local office workers A round-up of homes for sale es 30 g ma

Plus Beaux Villages de France, is a typical who will not hesitate to start their meal I example of a bastide and a village replete with an apéritif or wash it down with a Fact file Getty / with palpable history. glass of wine! Useful info and contacts

31 ose R Chris © 20 Living France May 2019 completefrance.com completefrance.com May 2019 Living France 21 Photo WHERE TO LIVE Lot-et-Garonne

VILLAGE LIFE the hard work the community Approximately 20km to the north-west of puts into promoting our village going green in Miramont is Duras, an endearing village through numerous events like the overlooking the Dropt valley and known night market (marché nocturne) lot-et-garonne for its imposing 12th-century château. and wine festival.” The department of Lot-et- Duras attracts wine lovers with an Nérac, in the south of Lot-et- Garonne is committed to the appellation that has produced exceptional Garonne, also holds a night market, development of green tourism and quality (and very affordable) wines since one of the most popular events is doing its bit for the environment. the 12th century. in the summer months where you Enjoy the local tipple at the Duras wine festival Keen to encourage residents and Stretching out over 1,524 hectares, the can make new friends, sample the visitors alike to travel around in Côtes de Duras is part of the Bergerac wine produits du terroir and even dance an environmentally-friendly way, region and counts some 200 dedicated to live music. It was while visiting the voie verte, an 87km-long cycle winemakers who make everything from the weekly Saturday morning market, route running along the canal de bold reds to sweet dessert wines. however, that Canadian elementary school Garonne, was officially opened in It is not unusual to hear English in teacher and food writer Mardi Michels July 2007. the centre-ville as Duras is very popular (eatlivetravelwrite.com) first fell in love The path provides a safe place with British expats. Estate agent Louise with the town. for cyclists to explore the area by Sergenton of Immorama Aquitaine She says: “Nérac may not be the most bike, or for those who prefer to (duras-immobilier.com), a company that well-known of tourist destinations yet, but travel on two feet rather than two has been selling everything from building if you’re into a slower pace of life, good wheels it’s the perfect incentive to plots to castles for more than 30 years, food and wine, sunshine and conviviality, enjoy a leisurely stroll as the boats explains: “Duras has a strong and growing this is a place you need to discover.” pass by on the water. reputation thanks to our château, the Mardi, who published her first Canadian teacher and food writer Mardi cookbook, In the French Kitchen with Kids author Marguerite Duras (her father lived Michels fell in love with the town of Nérac in Duras, inspiring her pen name) and all in 2018, is especially enthusiastic

Did you about the town’s gourmet appeal. on the third weekend of July. The large “Local specialities include armagnac, The Lot-et- beefsteak tomatoes are very fragrant know? Buzet wines and foie gras,” she says. and sweet. They’re wonderful in tarts, The Romans planted the “Nérac is also home to the chocolate Garonnais know chutneys or stuffed and baked, but first varieties of plum in shop that is said to have inspired the book nothing beats eating them sliced, drizzled the historical region of and film Chocolat (Chocolaterie Artisanale all too well that with olive oil and seasoned with just a Gaul, near Agen La Cigale).” dash of salt and pepper. good food need not The Lot-et-Garonnais know all CULINARY TREASURE too well that good food need not be Much like in the rest of south-west France, be complicated complicated and one of the best places the cuisine of Lot-et-Garonne is centred to witness culinary simplicity is at around bold, hearty flavours that reflect its Soumensac’s marché des producteurs. peasant traditions. Duck is an emblematic however, is the humble plum. Dried into On Sundays in summer, this tiny village speciality and enjoyed in myriad ways: glossy, wrinkly pruneaux d’Agen, the with a population of about 200, hosts buttery foie gras is slathered on toasted prunes have been part of France’s culinary an enticing market on an idyllic hilltop Above: Plums are dried into glossy pruneaux d’Agen brioche and seasoned with flakes of fleur history since the 12th century and are even overlooking the vineyards. Locals and Below: Marmande tomatoes are de sel; thick, juicy magrets (duck breasts) honoured with a spectacular festival in tourists come together to enjoy a picnic celebrated with an annual festival are beautifully grilled over prunings from Agen every year at the end of August. with food prepared on the spot by regional the vigne; and robust legs are preserved You will often see pruneaux preserved producers – everything from plates of duck

s in balls of their own fat, which is then in jars of armagnac, eau-de-vie or wine. charcuterie to desserts made with the used to fry crisp, garlicky potatoes. Gésiers They are popular as sweets, coated with department’s sunny fruits. Image y (gizzards) are added to rustic salads along dark chocolate and stuffed with sweet ett

t / G with pretty much all the aforementioned pastes, or as savoury bites for the apéro, A PLACE TO CALL HOME preparations of duck, and pizzas are even wrapped in bacon and stuffed with goat’s According to Immorama Aquitaine, hrisA C

s; s; topped with thin slices of magret fumé. cheese. Pruneaux d’Agen pair exceptionally property in Lot-et-Garonne is affordable, el With an exceptional variety of sun- well with rabbit or pork dishes and are with an average price of €170,000.

rdi Mich drenched fruit, the department is often delightful skewered between chunks of Mardi and her husband Neil Phillip

; ; M a called France’s largest orchard. It is the magret sprinkled with generous amounts purchased Maison de La Fontaine eek b

t country’s leading strawberry producer and of sea salt and rosemary. (neracvacationrental.com), a second home s e in 2009, three varieties of strawberries Marmande tomatoes are another and holiday rental bungalow in Nérac ns W ns

Ha were granted Label Rouge certification: the regional culinary treasure celebrated with in 2014, and she advises those who are A charming rural gem, Lot-et-Garonne os © boasts gently rolling landscapes t Charlotte, Gariguette and Ciflorette. an annual festival, the Tomato Fiesta, thinking of buying property to also spend

Pho By far the most celebrated fruit, which takes place in their hometown time there outside the warmer months.

22 Living France May 2019 completefrance.com completefrance.com May 2019 Living France 23 WHERE TO LIVE Lot-et-Garonne

The marché des producteurs at Soumensac Did you She says: “You might know? through Bordeaux’s love the area in the summer Marguerite Donnadieu, better wide boulevards when it’s bustling and known as Marguerite Duras, was while admiring happening, but you might a French writer and film director the city’s stunning be less enamoured with it in whose works include The Neoclassical the winter.” Lover and Hiroshima architecture, or ogling Though she speaks French mon amour the sumptuous stalls and found the property herself at Marché Victor Hugo rather than initially enlisting the in Toulouse, one of France’s help of an estate agent, Mardi believes that best covered markets. working with an English-speaking notaire Bergerac, known for its excellent made things a lot easier. wines, and situated a little closer in the “Property vocabulary is definitely not neighbouring Dordogne department to the your everyday language and it can be a north, is also worth a visit. long process,” she explains. After cruising through the river on a “Not necessarily difficult, but different. gabarre (flat-bottomed boat), you can stop Above: The landscape has vast fields of Even if you are fluent, you’ll need for a drink on Place Pélissière, the largest towering sunflowers someone who can explain the process to and liveliest square, easily recognisable by Below: Duras is known for its 12th-century you in plain English.” the many tourists taking turns snapping château, classed as a monument historique There are many reasons to consider pictures under Cyrano de Bergerac’s either a permanent move or investing in a famous long nose. second home that can also be rented out Ultimately, what makes Lot-et-Garonne to holidaymakers or those in the process of so appealing goes beyond its landscape, relocating. One of them, of course, is the fascinating history, excellent food and pleasant weather with distinct seasons. great climate. It’s that quintessentially Lot-et-Garonne’s oceanic climate means French joie de vivre woven into its culture early springs and endless summers, perfect and numerous cherished traditions that for all kinds of outdoor activities in its will make you lose your heart and yearn to tranquil countryside. You can sail through call it home. 200km of waterways or hike, cycle and ride horses along 4,500km of trails. eek b

Another advantage is the proximity to t s e the major cities of Bordeaux and Toulouse. Turn over ns W ns

If you’re craving more urban surroundings, For an expat’s story of converting a Ha

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24 Living France May 2019 completefrance.com