Tales from the Riverbank, Wapping Walk 5

5 WWW.TOWERHAMLETS.GOV.UK THE COMMUNITY NEWSPAPER FOR TOWER HAMLETS PRODUCED BY YOUR COUNCIL In this month’s walk, Graham Barker discovers the spirit of old riverside London among the cobbled streets of Wapping. Photos by Mike Askew. Tales from the riverbank

NEW Year’s ‘get healthy’ resolu­ Follow the dockside as it curves to the right prayers and quiet reflection. Inside, you’ll tions can be hard to sustain. Yet a – signed to the Dickens Inn – but before see ornate stained glass windows and dec­ brisk walk can be a great way to you reach the inn, turn right at a red phone orative brickwork. incorporate a mini workout into box to join the red brick roadway of St Back out on Wapping Lane, cross over your weekend. So put on your win­ Katharine’s Way. Follow this road all the and continue right, past Raine Street and ter woollies and head out to way round to the left, past old warehouses Reardon Street until you reach the explore the garrisons and gardens, and a silver arch at Tower Bridge Wharf, Wapping Wood Canal. Turn left down a docks and canals of Wapping. and you’ll soon join Wapping High Street. few steps to join the canal, and follow it Before you set out from Tower Hill Take the Thames Path through the towards St Katharine’s Docks as it snakes Underground station, make a brief visit to Hermitage Riverside Memorial Garden (5) first to the left, and then to the right. the giant sundial (1) on the mound above. on your right. It’s dominated by Wendy En route you should spot a bust of civil There’s a good view of the Tower of London Taylor’s cut­out dove commemorating east engineer John Rennie (10) across the water and a circular London timeline around the London civilians who died in World War II. above the old dock wall. As the canal makes sundial’s base. Stick with the Thames path, as it leaves the its final twist left, passing under a small Now head down the large flight of steps garden and passes another of Taylor’s road bridge, look out for the inscribed beside the main Tube entrance. On the left sculptures – Voyager, a sliced and twisted Roman numerals marking the water depth there are glimpses of Roman London (2) – bronze ring based on a ship’s propeller – of the old Western Dock, up to XXIV (24) an impressive section of the former city and soon it brings you back onto Wapping feet deep. Go up the steps ahead, towards a wall and a bronze statue of Emperor High Street. coiled rope sculpture and emerge in Trajan. Head right and you’ll arrive at Wapping Hermitage Basin (11). Continue through the underpass, where Pierhead (6) – two facing terraces of impos­ Stay on the level but walk back on your­ fiery murals depict the colourful history of ing Georgian houses built for dock officials. self slightly, to reach the road bridge. Then the Tower, its jewels, ravens and monarchs. The Town of Ramsgate pub is just beyond. follow the blue signs to St Katharine’s As you emerge to face the Tower (3), follow Squeeze down the adjacent Wapping Old Docks: firstly to the left, then left again into the path to the right, keeping on the lower Stairs – one of several old river landings on Stockholm Way, right into Thomas More level and skirting round to the entrance this stretch – and if the tide is out, you can Street and, at the end of the first block, left gate. Along the way, can you spot the metal even step down to the shore. along Mews Street. archers poised within the Tower’s turrets? Opposite the pub, cross over and head As you reach the dockside, follow the At the bottom of the sloping cobbled piaz­ through St John’s graveyard towards the path round to the right, circling anti­clock­ za you’ll find plaques giving historical Turk’s Head Café – a popular stopping wise. There’s plenty to see here including notes. place if you’re in need of refreshment. expensive yachts, chunky black capstans Beside the gate, you might browse in the As you stroll, look across to the figures of and waterfowl in the dock. At the mini Tower shop or have your photo taken with two children recessed into the façade of the roundabout by Ivory House (12) continue a friendly Beefeater. And Tower Hamlets old parish school (7). straight ahead, following the wooden residents get a very special deal: entrance Beside the Turk’s Head, walk on down boardwalk beside Commodity Quay. If is only £1 (normally £17 for adults) if you Green Bank and turn left into Wapping you’re feeling peckish, you might fancy a present your Idea Store card. Gardens. Follow the main tarmac track snack at one of the restaurants by the dock Follow the cobbled roadway along the through the park, heading for the opposite corner. Otherwise, return to Tower Hill by riverside. There are fine views of Tower gate. You emerge into Watts Street, facing a following the path right, beside a glass­ Bridge and on your left is Traitor’s Gate – high wall. Turn right and on the next cor­ fronted office block, then left through a the river entrance for the soon­to­be­ ner read the board on Turner’s Old Star pub white lit tunnel, back to the underpass and beheaded. Continue through the arch (8) – the romantic landscape painter JMW steps up to the Tube. under Tower Bridge and immediately turn Turner is rumoured to have bought it for Thanks to John Wills and Hildi right, past Dead Man’s Hole – where Sophia Booth, one of his several mistresses. Kappelhoff for trialling this walk. corpses once washed up – and back to the Circle around the green and heading for riverside. the bus stop. Then continue left up To find out more about Walk Tower Head for the Girl with a Dolphin foun­ Wapping Lane and cross over to St Peter’s Hamlets programmes and routes, visit tain and continue on to a giant silver sun­ London Docks (9), a little­known East End www.towerhamlets.gov.uk/walking or dial. Here you cross the wooden footbridge delight. Go through the courtyard and call Rachel Maile on 7364 6940 or email towards the Dockmaster’s House (4). inside the church – it’s open daily for [email protected] The Girl with a Dolphin sculpture by David Wynne, gives the The view across the river from St Katharine’s Dock illusion of the figures flying unsupported

Wapping Pierhead, Georgian houses built for dock officials The facade of an old parish school