Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

Statement of Significance: What Makes the Levels Special?

A Unique Hand-Crafted Cultural Landscape

Within the study area, the Gwent Levels is the finest The national importance of the Gwent Levels as an example in of a coastal landscape exploited, outstanding example of a landscape ‘hand-crafted’ modified and transformed by the communities by people, preserving clear evidence of distinctive that have lived here since its reclamation from the patterns of settlement, enclosure and drainage in Roman times. The cycle of land systems, is recognised by its inclusion in 1998 on reclamation and inundation over thousands of years the Register of Landscapes, Parks and Gardens of is recorded in this landscape as palaeochannels, Outstanding Historic Interest in Wales as a Historic which together with a rich legacy of buried Landscape of Outstanding Historic Interest (see archaeological deposits and earthworks, contributes Figure 1). significantly to the historic character of the Gwent Levels. This story of how humans used their skills The Register describes the Levels as a landscape and ingenuity to adapt and use the landscape of extraordinarily diverse environmental and for food and shelter has been revealed by recent archaeological potential. Although they are an research by landscape historians. important wetland resource in their own right, archaeologically the area contains a variety of The unique, hand-crafted landscape of the Gwent landscapes of diferent dates, and nowhere else Levels lies largely below the high water mark, is it possible to make the period distinctions so demonstrating the amazing eforts of humans in easily. People’s past activities in the area have drainage engineering, executed here on a grand scale: been governed by the vast tidal range within the with its abundant reens, sluices and banks, the whole Severn Estuary, which has seen major and minor Gwent Levels landscape is in many ways a monument fluctuations in the heights and range of tides since to civil engineering. The initial reclamation of diferent the last glaciation, caused by variations in both parts of the Levels often incorporated the natural the land and sea level. The Levels reflect people’s drainage channels which were complemented by evolving and often precarious relationship with these artificial ditches called reens. Some natural channels circumstances over the last ten thousand years. were unused and can show as palaeochannels The survival of historic maps such as the 1830s on aerial photographs. Human intervention in Commissioners of Sewers survey maps provides a management of the landscape is as vital today as it unique insight into the development of the traditional was when the Gwent Levels as we largely know it management of the area’s drainage system. The water were created. management system in its essence still functions as was intended, and reflects the unique and strategic role it has played and is still playing in the drainage of land and in flood prevention: the landscape’s historic drainage features prevent a significant part of Wales’ valuable agricultural land and properties in and

Living Levels 96 Living LevelsLiving Levels 97 97 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

Image Credit: Image Credit: Jeremy Bolwell Nigel Pugh

around the Levels, from flooding. Culture and nature are deeply Ŕ Reens – large artificial It is the traditional management of entwined across the Gwent Levels ditches which need regular the drainage system that creates landscape. The intricate network of maintenance to ensure the the range of habitats which makes reed-fringed drainage ditches and free flow of water. Their height the Levels so important for wildlife. reens criss-cross the Levels like can be controlled by weirs or arteries, carrying water from the stanks. Reen water is discharged The landscape we see today was uplands safely out to sea to protect through the gouts. significantly shaped by the Marcher the reclaimed land from flooding, lords and the monks of Goldclif and sustaining remarkably Ŕ Field ditches – these surround Priory who were responsible for ecologically rich wetland habitats every field and provide reclaiming the Levels. They also of national special scientific distinctive patterns in diferent let the ranks of fishtraps set out interest. It is these living waterways parts of the Levels. These in huge wooden ranks on the that set the Gwent Levels apart, ditches are maintained on foreshore, which used basket making them both culturally and longer cycles than the reens traps traditionally made from ecologically unique. and are the responsibility of hazel rods and willow plait known the landowners and drain into as “putts” and later “putchers” to The present landscape the reens. catch salmon, eels and lampreys identity is rooted in a number of on the rising and falling tides. The integrated features: Ŕ Grips – rectangular patterns distinctive remains of the putcher of shallow ditches on the field fishtraps ranks can be seen along Ŕ Sea walls – forming continuous surface to speed the drainage of the coast. barriers between the major tidal rain water. They discharge into rivers. The present line may date the field ditches. from the 16th century but they have constantly been improved Ŕ Transport network – within and strengthened. Some the Levels is a transport system abandoned sea banks survive of linear commons, roads, inland. causeways and bridges which originally allowed for the Ŕ Major rivers (known in the past movement of livestock but now as pills) – natural watercourses provides the network of roads, canalised across the Levels bridleways and footpaths. to stop them flooding the farmland. They discharge through the seawalls by tidal flaps or gouts into tidal channels now called pills.

Living Levels 98 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

Image Credit: Nigel Pugh

Ŕ Orchards - historically, orchards Ŕ Churches – the church clergy were a distinctive feature of the were important in shaping the landscape found alongside most way the Levels were managed farms and the Gwent Levels and the church spires are orchards produced their own important vertical landscape specific apple and pear varieties. features today. There are three They are now limited to a few grade one listed churches (St sites in the vicinity of Goldclif, Mary, Caldicot, St Mary, Redwick and Magor on Caldicot and St Thomas, Redwick) and Level, plus a small number on three grade two listed churches the Level. within the LLLP boundary (St Mary’s Church, , St Mary, Ŕ Heritage Estates - examples , St Bridgets, Wentloog) within the study area include historic estates such as and Llanwern Park, and historic monuments such as Caldicot and Castles.

Ŕ Cemeteries and Churchyard - examples within the study area include urban cemeteries, churchyards associated with small rural parish churches (such as those at Wentlooge, Nash, Whiston and Redwick), and cemeteries and churchyards on the edge of larger conurbations such as Rogiet and Portskewett.

Living Levels 99 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

A Wildlife Oasis

The Living Levels study area is a complex landscape. Reclaimed from the sea, its reliance on and relationship with people is precarious, intricate and yet enduring. Nature, for its part, has exploited the opportunity and created a unique ecosystem – an ‘accidental’ oasis supported by the special way the Levels has been created and managed. Precisely because of these gradual changes followed by centuries of stable maintenance of the watercourses, Image Credit: the Gwent Levels now has one of Nigel Pugh the best assemblages of aquatic invertebrates in the country. smallest flowering plant and nature conservation bodies, such The grips, ditches, reens and unique in Wales to this location); as the Nature main rivers provides a myriad of aquatic invertebrates; water voles Reserve (NRW and RSPB Cymru) opportunities for diferent species. and otters; and the only breeding and the Magor Marsh Nature population of bearded tit in Reserve (GWT). The Gwent Levels is home to a rich Wales. The network of designated assemblage of rare wildlife. The sites and nature reserves form Together, the wetlands, ditches Severn Estuary provides a valuable a core area in the ecological and inter-tidal habitats have a and internationally significant network of wetland habitats that highly significant and essential wildlife resource for wildfowl and is so crucial for the survival of role to play in delivering a range of wading birds. many rare and endangered flora ecosystem services for the Gwent and fauna species. Levels as a whole. Conservation Its conservation importance initiatives ofer opportunities is acknowledged through Land primarily managed for for public access, outreach designations including Ramsar, nature conservation is also a and education environmental Special Area of Conservation (SAC), notable land use within the Levels. programmes to inspire the next Special Protection Area (SPA) and Conservation initiatives that seek generation to care for the future Site of Special Scientific Interest to secure the future ecological conservation of wildlife on the (SSSI). Behind the Sea wall, much value of the Gwent Levels through Levels. In 2016, a breeding pair of of the Levels are designated as engagement with farmers to common crane reintroduced onto a SSSI largely due to the nature promote environmentally sensitive the Levels across the conservation value of the land management and drainage Severn Estuary by the Great Crane ditches and reens which support practices have helped maintain Project successfully raised a fully- significant concentrations of rare and create habitats upon which fledged chick on the Gwent Levels and protected wetland species; many of these species depend. – the first for 400 years whereas the rootless duckweed (the world’s Parts of the area are managed by their presence was once prolific

Living Levels 100 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

some 7,600 years ago, restoring once again the historic link between these charismatic species and the Gwent Levels landscape.

It is evident that the natural heritage is valued dearly by the local population. The importance of wildlife and ecology was picked up as a theme 75 times during the Good Levels/Bad Levels exercise and as this selection of comments below suggest, conservation is a key concern of the communities engaged.

Theme: Wildlife/Ecology/Conservation

Positive Negative

Number of 60 15 Comments Collected

What People Said What People Said

Incredible we have nature on the doorstep Legal underpinning of the SSSls needs to be Use our natural environment as an asset - secured ‘asset information’ Rats in the Sea Wall Love the wildlife-go to Goldclif, Porten, the Decline in Herons - used to be loads-bats Wetlands - grew up with it have gone Good selection of birdlife - especially Used to be Heron - see more Egret now Goldclif waders and Cetis warbler Concerned about the birds The murmurations at the Wetlands What legislation will there be to ensure what Cardif end - industry has ‘protected’ the we invest will be protected? wildlife on the foreshore Otter taking carp in Redwick Peterstone has recovered its bat population! Trees being taken down during nesting time Wildflower planting-more like in Newport Used to be Lapwing in the rushes (there’s more in bit) Reed maintenance at the Wetlands-can’t see Pretty flowers and birds the birds-is there an argument for ‘Public Wildlife - very good! areas’ - good for appreciation

Living Levels 101 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

‘They always say the best way to see the Gwent Levels is with a microscope or a helicopter. You’ve either got to get right in and go, look, this is amazing down here, or you’ve got to get up high and see this vast, extraordinary landscape from above.’ —(The Sum of a Place, Julian Hofman, 2015)

A Hidden Landscape

First impressions of the Gwent Western Railway and Severn While the Gwent Levels are Levels to some people are of Tunnel, prehistoric footprints little known and seldom visited an unassuming and relatively and trackways snaking towards by the surrounding urban empty, flat and open agricultural Somerset, the bones of a long- communities at present, they are landscape next to the Severn extinct Aurochs, the estate wealth not ‘forgotten’ by the people who Estuary; the small number of of the Morgans of Tredegar, Roman live and work there. Over time, the dispersed rural villages and remote drainage channels, medieval visual connections and cultural farmsteads within the Levels ports, a unique watery lexicon, associations with the Levels sit in the shadow of extensive the imposing silhouette of the has been disrupted by railways, urban areas, juxtaposed with Transporter Bridge, spectacular motorways and urbanisation, major energy infrastructure, and murmurations of starlings. creating a perception of the bypassed by busy transport routes. Gwent Levels as a somewhat On further inspection however As this table from the Good Levels/ ‘hidden’ landscape. the Gwent Levels is revealed to Bad Levels flipchart engagement be an appealing and remarkable shows, the Gwent Levels landscape As time passes and people pass coastal landscape of high skies, means diferent things to diferent on, it is vitally important that the low horizons and a geometric people. Some can find it featureless memory of the area’s heritage and network of narrow water-filled and intimidating whereas others its remarkable stories are revealed ditches and narrow rural lanes and find it exhilarating and value its and passed on for future genera- tracks that cut across some of the tranquillity and distinctive lifestyles. tions to appreciate and enjoy. most productive agricultural land in Wales. Even a superficial sweep of the area’s natural and cultural heritage throws up a succession of fascinating vignettes – the impacts of a major flooding recorded in a medieval church, Brunel’s Great

Living Levels 102 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

Theme: Sense of Place/uniqueness/perception/identity

Positive Negative

Number of 84 23 Comments Collected

What People Said What People Said

Amazing but contentious Why save it, it’s boring with scrufy ditches. Unique landscape big horizon If I had my way I’d plant trees all over it! So diferent from Newport! It’s an uphill battle for us to keep the Levels There’s nothing there-but that’s the point as they are... Picturesque villages, lovely old pubs Heard of the Gwent Levels but no idea Industrial as well as rural-makes it where they are interesting and diferent Lack of strong positive identity-there’s a It’s like a little treasure you unearth whopping great river dividing people A jewel in the crown of the Newport and Beautiful but neglected District area Bleak You think you are in another part of Wales Light changes so quickly Always been a mosaic of diferent Uncared for and run-down landscapes If you say ‘Gwent Levels’ people think it’s the Wetlands Parochialism-distinct identity in the area

Image Credit: Nigel Pugh

Living Levels 103 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

‘Even at a distance the Levels are mesmeric, beguiling beneath wide, estuary skies. They shape-shift with the weather as you walk [through] them, borrowing the magical sea-light of the Severn Estuary when it’s struck by sun, or turning as dark and dramatic as a storm-tide.’ —(The Sum of a Place, Julian Hofman, 2015)

Dramatic and Dynamic Seascapes

Beyond the Sea wall, the vast and sky conditions as light reflects villages of Sudbrook, Portskewett mudflats, saltmarshes and open of open water and mudflats when and Caldicot are the last lave net water of the Severn Estuary are the tide recedes; and the changing fishermen in Wales. The tradition fundamental to the setting and intricate pattern of the winding of lave net fishing at Black Rock character of the Gwent Levels. creeks and channels within the has been passed down through This is a dramatic and dynamic foreshore as high tides deposit many generations across many seascape of big skies, a sense of sediment and new courses are centuries and the fishermen are light and panorama, including continuously eroded by rivers. now actively promoting the fishery views of the two colossal white The expanses of windy saltmarsh as a heritage fishery and tourist bridges spanning the silt-laden and mud exposed at low tide attraction in their aim to keep the tides of the estuary. are used by tens of thousands of history and tradition of lave net migratory waders and waterfowl fishing alive for future generations Its character varies from day to which arrive from Northern Europe to enjoy. day, and from season to season, each winter, roosting and feeding and is much influenced by the on the estuary’s saltmarsh and The following captured from the considerable tidal range, ever mudflats and filling the coast’s ‘Good Levels/Bad Levels’ exercise changing light and weather cold air with raucous babble. It is with the capture the conditions, and the efect of these also a landscape full of geological range of responses which feature on the texture and colour of the clues to its past – the red clifs the estuary’s significance: “I love estuary itself; the dynamics of early rising out of the saltmarshes at the Sea Wall anywhere-fascinating morning sea mists which burn of Black Rock are rich with the fossils views of land and sea”, “vast to reveal the detail of the coast, or of the plesiosaurs and insects ethereal landscape of changing end of day spectacular sunsets, which populated the landscape horizons”, “I love the fishing are one of the classic changes when the area was transformed and walking at Portskewett and that evoke sensual and spiritual from a hot arid desert to a warm Sudbrook – for me it is the Jewel responses in many people. Others tropical sea approximately 200 of Wales”. Image Credit: include the changing mood of the million years ago. The Black Rock Nigel Pugh foreshore in response to weather Lave Net Fisherman from the local

Living Levels 104 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

“We find faulty and do order Ellen Reen to be reaped and scowred beginning at Blackmoor Gout containing 495 perches done John Grosham Howe Esq., worth the doing one pound 4 pence.”

—(A History of Drainage in the Gwent Levels, Tony Pickup, 2013)

The Historic Drainage System

The element of tension and nance of this network is of itself a be done by others and reclaim jeopardy that exists between the fascinating part of the Levels’ story; the costs from the defaulting land and sea is demonstrated by as is the distinctive and unique landowner. At this time and right the catastrophic 1607 flood and ‘Levels lingo’ that it spawned. up until the 1884 Act of Parliament, many subsequent floods, the management of the sea defences quasi-judicial proceedings of the Roman colonists, Norman and drains was ‘ratione tenurae’, Commissioners of Sewers and barons, Franciscan and Cistercian which means that each land owner the continued imperative for the monasteries, large landowners was obliged to maintain those bits Drainage Board’s work. such as the Tredegars and of the sea defence or drainage Beauforts, and the Monmouthshire system that were on his land. What we now understand as the Court of Sewers established by Levels owes much to the devel- Charles II, all played their part Above is an extract from a opment of the sea wall since the in the Levels’ rich history. Each presentment from the 1690-1710 medieval period. Over a period of dynasty has depended on the Court Minutes: two thousand years, a succession successful management of of landowners, farmers, engineers the Levels’ drainage system: a Historical accounts reveal the and ofcial bodies – including the responsibility now held by NRW many human stories of the very revered Commissioners of Sewers since taking over from the Caldicot hard and physical struggle that it and Internal Drainage Boards – and Wentlooge Internal Drainage has taken to maintain this unique have maintained the land, recog- Board in 2011, a body that had landscape over many centuries. nising its value, initially for agricul- been in place since 1942 when Much of the Levels were hand ture and more recently for housing, they took on the mantle from the drained using basic tools until transport and commerce. Draining Commissioners of Sewers. as late as the 1960s. Some of the the land involved enormous hu- man efort: constructing a sea wall It was the 1531 ‘Act of Sewers’ and digging the intricate network passed by Henry VIII that gave of reens, drainage ditches and the Commissioners of Sewers the grips to allow the land to be used ability to raise taxes to pay for sea productively. The legal framework defences and drainage work. The that grew to ensure the mainte- Courts had the power to order landowners to carry out repairs to sea walls and to the drainage system where deficiencies were found, and if these were not repaired, to authorise them to

Living Levels 105 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance stories are particularly woeful at history of the management of times of war when the physical this landscape. This story – once task of repairing deficiencies in so familiar to the residents of the sea and drainage defences fell to Levels – is now only known by the women of the house without a handful of older residents and the aid of modern machinery. a few surviving members of the Many who couldn’t pay were once much revered IDB. This sometimes forced of their is an important and appealing property and in to homelessness. narrative for many uninitiated audiences, given more urgent This is a very deep, rich and largely emphasis by current and wider untapped well of human stories concerns about climate change which reveal the fascinating and rising sea levels.

Living Levels 106 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

Copyright: V. Ambrus

Life on the banks of the Severn Estuary 7,500 years ago

Archaeology

Over recent years, a range of The area is especially rich in Barland’s Farm, , Roman spectacular archaeological sites prehistoric and Roman Period stone and timber structures and have been excavated. archaeology, as well as a diversity the remains of a late 3rd Century of field patterns ranging from the Romano-British boat have Due to recurrent phases of ancient semi-regular enclosure been found, alongside a buried inundation and alluviation, to the engineered 18th century tidal creek, emphasizing the there is a proven potential for fields. The unique drainage history remarkable state of preservation extensive, buried, waterlogged, and important farming and food of archaeological material in and archaeological and environmental production history have provided around the Levels. deposits belonging to the earlier today’s communities with a strong landscapes, which extend beyond sense of tradition and place. The Middle Ages are the seawalls and banks into represented by a large number the intertidal mudflats. These It is reasonable to suppose that of Anglo-Norman sites including include the remains of Neolithic/ other important evidence of castles, moated sites, churches, Bronze Age settlement sites, as Mesolithic activity will be found mills, manor houses and court evidenced by human footprints, preserved further inland, and houses. There is evidence of lithic finds, butchered animal perhaps most particularly at the continuity in the forms of land bone, brushwood trackways and interface between the Levels and use between the medieval and roundhouses (e.g. in the vicinity solid geology to the north. post-medieval periods. of Collister Pill). The national importance of the inter-tidal area Bronze Age activity has been Examples of notable prehistoric for its uniquely rich archaeological recorded at various sites on features to the north of Wentlooge and historical resource is desiccated raised peat beds, such Level outside, but near the recognised by its inclusion in as at Chapel Tump. More recently, Registered Historic Landscape, the Gwent Levels Registered outside but near the area, at include the early Bronze Age Landscape of Outstanding Caldicot Castle there is detailed long barrow tomb near Cleppa Historic Interest in Wales. The evidence of palaeochannels, pile Park visible from the M4; Gaer Levels are therefore a uniquely structures, a boat strake and a Fort, also known as Tredegar rich archaeological and historical considerable amount of cultural Fort and, locally, as The Gollars, resource in Wales, and certainly of material. Iron Age evidence has on the western side of the City international significance. been discovered in the intertidal of Newport, an old hill fort site zone at Goldclif with rectangular believed to be from the Iron Age; timber buildings, trackways and and an Iron Age Druid stone in fishtraps on a shelf of fen peat. Also outside, but near the area, at

Living Levels 107 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

Image Credit: Jeremy Bolwell the grounds of a private property Built Heritage pattern. Several buildings are listed in Michaelstone. The remains of a including Court - a neo- 13th-century boat, used for trading There are a wide variety of classically inspired family house. along and across the Severn buildings including medieval Estuary, and perhaps with Ireland, churches, and some fine post- The hamlet of Porton lies adjacent were found buried in the mud of medieval cottages and farmhouses to grade II Whitson church, the estuary close to Magor Pill. as well as several working farms and includes a fine collection The boat was found to have been in the LLLP boundary. There are of seventeenth to eighteenth carrying iron ore from . also some fine buildings associated century buildings. From an isolated It is the largest wreck find of with the older villages, including farmstead by the coast known its period in Welsh waters and small churches whose spires act as “The Fisheries”, there is the probably the largest found so far in as vertical landmarks. Redwick remains of a “Putcher rank”(where the British Isles. is the best-preserved medieval baskets traditionally made from nucleated village on the Levels, hazel rods and willow plait were The present landscape represents and remains generally in very good set out against the tides in huge the latest archaeological period condition including the grade wooden ranks). From the sea wall and provides the diverse ecological one listed Church of St Thomas the remains of the ranks which niches on which the nature the Apostle. Two of the six bells trapped the salmon at high tide to conservation interests depend. in the central tower date from the be retrieved by fisherman at low However, the importance of the pre-Reformation period and are tide can be seen. archaeology resource and how to thought to be some of the oldest read the evidence in the present working church bells in Goldclif Priory was responsible for day landscape is little understood the country. managing land and churches and beyond the academic community. the church’s role in creating the Together with the neighbouring drainage system is visible in the larger parishes of Nash and names of key watercourses such Goldclif, Whitson is one of the as Monksditch - a main drainage so-called “Three Parishes” which ditch with an origin near Llanwern, have long been treated as a which passes through the village unit - geographically, socially, on its way to the sea. Local economically and ecclesiastically. folklore maintains that the sides The houses and farmsteads in of the Monksditch are laced with Whitson are set back from the road smuggler’s brandy. in long strips of pasture. It reflects a medieval ‘cope’ land allocation Churches are the key built heritage

Living Levels 108 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

sites on the Levels. Most of the commemorates the great flood stories of the Levels are wrapped of 1607 when many thousands of up in the churches and the people and animals died: other community living around them. examples of similar plaques can As many of the churches looked be seen on churches in Goldclif to the Severn and the sea they are and Peterstone On the plaque at closely linked to the maritime trade Goldclif the inscription reads: history of Wales. Several church records document part of this maritime history e.g. records at “On the 20 of January even as it came Goldclif church show that children didn’t go to school in Goldclif to pass – It pleased God the same in 1912 because the tide came over the sea defences. We can flood did flow to the edge of this same also deduce that the sea wall was breached more often at Goldclif brass – and in this parish was lost and Nash by the record number of children’s deaths in local parish 5000 and od pound – Besides xxii was records there. There are sailors graves at Goldclif and Nash, and in this same parish drowned”. grave records are available for Nash, Redwick and Magor. In the Churches and village halls are also St Thomas Church at Redwick, important places of social activity a plaque on the outer wall and community congregation which are highly valued by the communities we have spoken to.

Living Levels 109 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

Image Credit: Graham Horn

Levels Lingo

The landscape has its own This glossary will make it easier Levels Lingo – Grips fascinating local ‘Levels Lingo’ or for anyone interrogating these A small or open furrow or ditch vocabulary that provides an insight archive collections to understand for carrying water of. Grips are a into the origins of the landscape what is being referred to and to system of surface draining where over 1800 years ago and how it understand how the drainage a rectangular pattern of shallow continues to be managed today. system was operated and furrows are cast, leading the managed. It also has been a surface water to the headland and In preparation of the LCAP a useful document to produce the so into the adjacent field ditch. scoping survey of the local and revised LCA and to inform the national archive collections sense of place and interpretative Levels Lingo – Reens relevant to the Gwent Levels has themes for the Destination From the Welsh ‘rhewyn’, been made by Rick Turner, Historic Management Study. It is intended reens is the local word for the Landscape Consultant for the LLLP. for this Lingo to be woven in watery ditches that criss-cross This has involved an extended to the new interpretation for the landscape like arteries, the online search of local and national the LLLP as an important and primary feature of a complex historical collections, a search of intriguing part of the linguistic drainage system that was dug over the records of the Commissioners culture of the Gwent Levels to centuries, and which included a of Sewers in Gwent Archives, a be celebrated and preserved. subtle variety of components, from visit to the Glamorgan Archives, Engagement activity over the parallel field depressions to shallow and visits to meet local historians. 18-month Development Phase surface grooves called ‘grips’. On These records begin in the has incorporated a ‘Levels Lingo’ the Levels, it was the responsibility seventeenth century and continue game which involves matching of those along its banks to until the later twentieth century. photos of particular landscape maintain it annually or face action features or actions to the correct from the Court of Sewers. An output of this work has Levels lingo term. Beyond some been to document for the first of the more commonly used and Levels Lingo – Pill, Pil or Pwl time a glossary of terms entitled familiar terms liks ‘pill’ and ‘reen’ Pill may be derived from the Welsh ‘Levels Lingo’ that attempts to there was very little awareness ‘pwll’ meaning pool. In the Gwent define the meaning of all the amongst much of the community Levels it originally meant the words and phrases used in the of these words - but great interest whole course of the main rivers Gwent Levels historically and in the words and their origins and but is now used to mean the tidal today, with additions of words a desire to discover more. The creek below a gout. used in the and full and current version of the . Levels Lingo glossary and scoping study is appended to this report (appendix 13) and some examples are as follows:

Living Levels 110 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

Image Credit: Nigel Pugh

Levels Lingo – Levels Lingo – Levels Lingo – Perch Earthing, turfing and heading Noghole, noggor or noggle A perch is a commonly used unit Earthing, turfing and heading are A wooden peg in the planks in the of length and area measurements the processes to repair and raise bottom of a pill over a gout which for allotments. It is used in the the height of a sea wall. can be lifted to allow water into a Levels for measuring land, fences local reen system. These structures and walls, varying locally but was Levels Lingo – Gout have only been recorded and later standardized at 5½ yards. The gout is a simple tidal flap survive on Monksditch. system similar to that used by the Levels Lingo – Romans nearly 2000 years ago. Levels Lingo – Stanks Putcher or Putcheon Fresh water from the ditches and Stanks are ponds but in the Gwent A funnel shaped basket reens goes through the sea wall at Levels the word has come to traditionally made from hazel low tide via a flap and out to the apply to the temporary dam or rods and willow plait for catching sea. When the tide comes in, the weir which held the water back salmon and eels in the incoming seawater pushes against –the local name for a moorhen and tributaries. the flap and closes it. The fresh ‘stankhen’ derives from ‘stank’. water on the other side of the wall Levels Lingo – Reen vaulting builds up temporarily in the reens Levels Lingo – Reen vaulting was a popular local until the tide turns and goes back Reaping and Scouring sport once practised by people in out. The weight of the fresh water Reaping and scouring refers to the the Gwent Levels. then pushes the flap open again twice-yearly reen maintenance – draining out to the sea until the tasks, which involved cutting next high tide. down the riparian vegetation and cleaning out the watercourse of The word “Gout” comes from vegetation and debris. the Old English word “gota”, and Middle English “gote”, meaning Levels Lingo – Brinker watercourse, channel, drain or A person who owns land on one stream. The same word can be side of a reen, wall or pill and is seen in Goyt, Cheshire and Gut in responsible for its maintenance – various places in Britain derived from “Brinker”, a person living on the brink or border.

Living Levels 111 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

Ecosystem Services

A summary of the key ecosystem Supporting Services Pollination: by insects also services provided by the (GI) assets provides a supporting service within the study area is described Supporting services are those for primary production to support below. These have formed the which are essential to the both agricultural productionand basis for identifying needs and functioning of ecosystems and nature conservation. However, opportunities for both the Regional indirectly responsible for all the serious consequences of Green Infrastructure Strategy and other services. This includes the significant declines in insect Destination Management Plan. relationship between underlying pollinator populations, considered geology and soil character, soil largely to result from the loss The Destination Management formation and the processes of of flower-rich habitat, habitat Plan includes costed delivery plant growth, including pollination. fragmentation and the use of action plans for interpretation certain pesticides, has been and signage, visitor access and Soil formation: In the context recognised in the government’s integrated marketing of the Levels of the Gwent Levels, supporting National Pollinator Strategy and which has formed the basis of services relate to the exchange of the creation of initiatives such many of the final projects put silts and nutrients between the as B-Lines to promote landscape- forward in this LCAP. reen system and the agricultural scale habitat creation to try land. This interchange relies and reverse the decline in heavily on the regulation of pollinating insects. water management and cyclical ditch management. The supply The Levels are not only important and replenishment of nutrients to Shrill Carder bee, but also to maintains soils, primary other bumblebees such as Red- production (including agricultural shanked Carder bee (Bombus productivity), as well as providing ruderarius), Brown-banded the basis for supporting the Carder bee (Bombus humilis), nature conservation value of the and Moss Carder bee (Bombus Gwent Levels. muscuorum), solitary bees such as Tormentil Mining bee (Andrena tarsata) and Long-horned bee (Eucera longicornis) and many other pollinating insects.

Living Levels 112 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

Image Credit: Nigel Pugh

Provisioning Services pears are present. The extent to on the Gwent Levels include which the Gwent Levels remains wind turbines and solar arrays. Provisioning services relate a productive landscape is variable However, both these sources to the supply of goods such as and is influenced by farm size, of power give rise to other freshwater, food and fuel. landholdings purchased for non- considerations that include land Water availability: The Gwent farming reasons, diversification take, drainage management and Levels is largely a rain-fed system, of business activities that may visual impacts associated with with relatively limited inputs include wind and solar power the introduction of prominent from the area’s rivers (Figure 4), generation, holiday lets or similar structures into the landscape. The Wentlooge Level is better and the separation between supplied than Caldicot Level as its pasture on the Levels and the Regulating Services catchment can be supplemented holdings that operate them. with water from the River Ebbw. All of these factors influence Regulating services maintain Water availability therefore, productivity and importantly, natural systems that include water largely relies on the relationship how separate land parcels are quality flooding, soil erosion and between rainfall inputs and the managed in a landscape that coastal processes. active management of water levels requires a coherent approach to, through the control structures that for example, land drainage. Climate regulation: There is moderate flows and discharges. limited carbon storage in the The abundance of water is key Biomass energy: There is limited Gwent Levels predominantly to maintaining the character and potential for some biomass due to the limited areas of peat function of the area. The main production from willow pollards, soils. The majority of the Levels abstractions are for public water which has a longstanding tradition comprise loams derived from supply; other abstractions are for throughout the area. However, reclaimed estuarine alluvium. industry and agriculture. the volume of biomass that could realistically be harvested may Regulating water quality: The Food provision: The area restrict the size of any associated Gwent Levels, and the rivers that primarily produces milk, other power plant. As an alternative the drain through it, fall within the dairy products and beef’, with biomass could form one stream Severn River Basin District. The some sheep flocks and arable of supply to an existing plant, but 2015 River Basin Management Plan production. A small number of the value of this would need to identifies a range of factors that are traditional orchards of apples and be considered in relation to the detrimental to water quality and embedded energy costs associated biodiversity within the study area: with transportation. Other sources of renewable energy generation

Living Levels 113 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

Figure 10 — Flood Defences

All water bodies in the Gwent The Gwent Levels are poorly Regulating water (flooding): Levels system are designated as connected to the Welsh river The Gwent Levels are largely a Artificial Water Bodies, but there network and lie in one of the rain fed system and although is a lack of clarity regarding the driest parts of Wales. Much of the rivers have been artificially most appropriate objectives to set the water they receive is in the modified to increase flows to for these. UK WFD standards in winter, with very limited summer the sea, they have only a limited freshwater are designed to apply recharge. Most of this comes from influence on water levels. The to one of two environments: rivers precipitation that falls on the Levels Sea wall in combination with the or lakes of which the Gwent Levels themselves, rather than from maintenance of the ditch and reen are neither. upstream areas with higher rainfall. network, is the primary means for This means that water levels can regulating flows and preventing Difuse pollution from agriculture fall markedly, especially in a dry flooding, maintaining agricultural and rural land management in summer, and water quality tends productivity and protecting general, difuse pollution from to deteriorate over the course of the ecological interest of the urban areas, misconnections, the summer as solutes become Gwent Levels. Local Plan policies development pressure in the River concentrated. However, the sluice provide specific requirements Usk catchment. Due to the heavily boards are removed during the for surface water drainage populated areas there is pressure winter and a natural ‘flushing’ of relating to the management from urban difuse pollution, the summer, nutrient-rich waters of surface water runof from sewage and misconnections in which have accumulated in the development, to manage flood the South East Valleys catchment, ditches occurs. The ditches are re- risk. The conservation value of including the River Rhymney filled with less nutrient-rich water these watercourses is vulnerable Phosphate loads and poor soil from rainfall and water runof at to neglect through lack of management (leading to excessive the end of winter. appropriate maintenance, changes overland flow/sediment loss to in drainage and land use and water) in the catchment The regulation of water other more complex factors. (Environment Agency, 2015). quality on the Levels is largely There is a fundamental need to determined by the control of manage water and the network Point source pollution from urban and agricultural difuse of watercourses within the Gwent development and industry is also pollution and the management of Levels. This includes management an influence on water quality the reen system. of water control infrastructure and within the study area. wetland habitats across the Levels. This is essential for maximising

Living Levels 114 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

Image Credit: Nigel Pugh

GI benefits such as improved Regulating coastal processes: Cultural Services flood management, water and soil The Gwent Levels comprise quality; viable agricultural futures; c.111km2 of reclaimed estuarine Cultural services provide direct, protection of buried archaeology; alluvium, forming a coastal non-material, benefits to human and to increase the range and plain up to 6km wide, fringing society, addressing a range of extent of habitats and species and the northern side of the Severn social and cultural needs that their resilience to climate change. Estuary. Without the sea wall, encompass a sense of place and the Gwent Levels would be inspiration, a sense of history, Regulating soil erosion and frequently inundated by the tranquillity and recreation. quality: Intensive and repeated sea and with predicted rising Engagement with the natural and cultivation and arable cropping sea levels, eventually become cultural heritage of the Gwent increase the stress placed upon part of the estuary and full tidal Levels is key to the conservation soils, and may lead to a reduction range. Climate change is likely to of this remarkable landscape for in soil quality and condition. increase tidal flood risk; this will future generations . Research Similarly, the inappropriate be exacerbated in low-lying areas shows that when communities livestock management can lead to where increased sea levels inhibit engage with their local green poaching and erosion of surface pumped land drainage. Tidal spaces, and when green spaces vegetation and soils. Consequently, inundation within coastal areas will are fully integrated with the some areas sufer from damaged inevitably result in saline intrusion built environment, there are soil structure, notably compaction (although this is currently not direct health and well-being and impeded drainage which an issue) into freshwater bodies, benefits for people, wildlife accelerates run-of or prolongs most of which are recognised and habitats. Green spaces can periods of standing water, which for their nature conservation help to create social cohesion, can impact vegetation and lead to interest in SSSI designations and provide opportunities for skills soil exposures, which can increase depend on fresh water. Coastal development and learning, and sedimentation of watercourses. processes throughout the estuary help reduce the impacts of climate are dynamic and of considerable change, flooding and air pollution. importance, both within the estuary and to the low-lying The Regional Green Infrastructure adjacent land. The current policy Strategy commissioned for this for flood defences along the coast LCAP has highlighted a need to bordering the Gwent Levels is to focus investment on improving ‘hold the line’ access and recreation facilities for local communities and visitors to the Gwent Levels.

Living Levels 115 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

Summary: What makes the Gwent Levels special?

In summary, the key landscape Ŕ %JTUJODUJWFESBJOBHFQBUUFSO elements and the planned attributes that make the Gwent of canalised rivers, drains, elements of the landscape. Levels special are: reens and ditches, accentuated by lines of pollard willows, Ŕ "TUSPOHTFOTFPGUIFIJTUPSZ Ŕ 5IFSPMFPGUIFUSBEJUJPOBM define a planned and of human occupation and management of the Gwent reclaimed landscape. management pervades the Levels’ drainage system in landscape, reflected in its sustaining the nationally Ŕ 5IF4FBXBMM BOECBOLT drainage, settlement and field important wetland habitats carrying roads/droveways patterns which create one of not seen to the same extent between farmsteads and the best-preserved planned, elsewhere in Wales. villages, often form the only medieval enclosure landscapes upstanding landscape features in Wales. Ŕ "QSFEPNJOBOUMZQBTUPSBM in some places. landscape drained, irrigated and Ŕ "TQBSTFTFUUMFNFOUQBUUFSO modified to allow productive Ŕ "OFTUVBSJOFTFBTDBQFPG related to subtle topographical farming, while also providing a mudflats, saltmarsh and variations, the simple and diverse range of semi-natural occasional rocky outcrops. utilitarian style of buildings often habitats for rare species. reflecting the functional nature Ŕ -BSHFŤPDLTPGXBEJOHBOE of the landscape. Ŕ 8BUFSJTBOFWFSQSFTFOUFMFNFOU other wetland birds visit the in the landscape, creating fertile coastal mudflats and wetlands Ŕ 0DDBTJPOBMBQQMFBOEQFBS fields and presenting challenges attracted by a rich food supply, orchards found in proximity to to settlement and occupation of with vast flocks - murmurations farmsteads and villages. the landscape. - of starlings gathering on the Levels in autumn and Ŕ *OTVNNFS BWFSEBOUBOEGFSUJMF Ŕ 5IFMPXIPSJ[PO MFWFM winter forming mesmeric and landscape with lush vegetation topography and broad skies, dramatic aerial displays. across meadows and along often augmented by watercourses; this contrasts with dramatic cloudscapes, sunsets Ŕ %JTUJODUJWFBOESBSFWFHFUBUJPO  the often wild, bleak and sense and sunrises. invertebrates, colonies of water of remoteness experienced on vole and otter found in the the Levels in winter. Ŕ 4USPOHMJOFBSJUZBOEEJTUJODUJWF extensive network of reens. geometric pattern of enclosure, Ŕ 7JCSBOUDJUJFTBOEUPXOTBSPVOE drainage, watercourses, lanes Ŕ 3JWFSTBOEESBJOTBSFEFţOJOH the edge of the Levels reinforce and historic route-ways. elements of the character its strong sense of tranquillity, of the landscape, reflecting remoteness and wildness away the active processes, natural from human occupation in many places

Living Levels 116 Part One – The Scheme Plan / Statement of Significance

There are a number of distinctive Other examples of distinctive Ŕ /FXQPSU3BJMXBZ4UBUJPOBOE places and destinations, key places, gateways and routes the Riverfront Walk connecting gateways and primary access on or near the Caldicot and the station to the industrial routes that provide opportunities Wentlooge Levels include: heritage of and for people to engage with, the Transporter Bridge and the experience and appreciate the key Ŕ 4FWFSO5VOOFM+VODUJPOBOE landscape themes and attributes Caldicot Railway Stations that make the Gwent Levels Ŕ -JHIUIPVTFTPOUIFFBTUFSO special. For example, distinctive Ŕ $BMEJDPU$BTUMF$PVOUSZ1BSL and western banks of the places on Mathern Level along Usk Estuary the Wales Coast Path include Ŕ .BHPS.BSTI/BUVSF3FTFSWF Black Rock and Sudbrook Point, Ŕ 4U#SJEFT7JMMBHF DIVSDI which ofer dramatic long distance Ŕ .BHPS$IVSDIBOE and environs views across the Severn Estuary Procurator’s House towards framed by the Ŕ -JHIUIPVTF1BSL*OOPOUIF two Crossings. Ŕ 3FEXJDL7JMMBHFBOEFOWJSPOT Wales Coast Path Chepstow Railway Station is a key gateway to Mathern Level and also Ŕ (SBEF0OF-JTUFE$IVSDIFT 4U Ŕ .BSTIţFME7JMMBHF 4U.BSZōT the Lower River Wye. The Severn Mary, Caldicot, St Mary, Undy Church and environs Tunnel Railway station is a key link and St Thomas, Redwick) to the Caldicot Level presently. Ŕ 1FUFSTUPOF7JMMBHF GPSNFS4U On the Cardif side there are no Ŕ (SBEF5XPMJTUFEDIVSDIFT Peter’s Church and environs rail links in to the Levels presently (St Mary’s Church, Rogiet, but the Cardif Parkway Station in St Mary, Llanwern, Ŕ 1FUFSTUPOF8FOUMPPHF.BSTIFT could provide a future St Bridgets, Wentlooge gateway to the Wentlooge Level if Ŕ )FOESF-BLFOFBS4U.FMMPOT approved. Ŕ $IVSDI5PXFST /BTI (PMEDMJŢ Ŕ -BNCZ8BZ-BOEţMM4JUF1BSD Ŕ 8JMDSJDL)JMM'PSU BOIJTUPSJD Tredelerch (potential in longer vantage point with extensive term for creation of a substantial views over Caldicot Level) new country park with access along the coast) Ŕ -MBOXFSO1BSL BEKBDFOUUP Caldicot Level) Ŕ 5SFEFHBS)PVTF$PVOUSZ1BSL (adjacent to Wentlooge Level) Ŕ (MBO-MZOEFWFMPQNFOU JODMVEFT a substantial area of new Ŕ 4JSIPXZ7BMMFZ8BML DPOOFDUJOH wetland parkland) with Wentlooge Level along the River Ebbw corridor) Ŕ (SFBU5SBTUPO.FBEPXT Nature Reserve Ŕ 3IZNOFZ3JWFS8BML (connecting Cardif to Ŕ (PMEDMJŢBOEFOWJSPOTBMPOHUIF Wentlooge Level) Wales Coast Path Ŕ 4VTUSBOT/$/3PVUFBOE Ŕ /FXQPSU8FUMBOET/BUJPOBM Nature Reserve along the Wales Ŕ 8BMFT$PBTU1BUI Coast Path

Living Levels 117 Living Levels 118 Living Levels 119