Behind the Scenes
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 311 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. particularly Mark, Cath, Fred, Lucy and the kids OUR READERS in Hobart, and Helen in Launceston. Special Many thanks to the travellers who used thanks as always to Meg, my road-trippin’ the last edition and wrote to us with help- sweetheart, and our daughters Ione and Remy ful hints, useful advice and interesting who provided countless laughs, unscheduled anecdotes: pit-stops and ground-level perspectives along Brian Rieusset, David Thames, Garry the way. Greenwood, Jan Lehmann, Janice Blakebrough, Jon & Linley Dodd, Kevin Callaghan, Lisa Meg Worby Walker, Megan McKay, Melanie Tait, Owen A big thank you to Tasmin, once again. Kudos Boscheinen, Peter Mill, Richard Scott, Sally to the in-house team at Lonely Planet for turn- McDonald, Trevor Mazzucchelli and Urs Grueter. ing our many weeks of exploration into this most reliable of handheld devices. Cheers to all our Tasmanian friends for great company and AUTHOR THANKS insider tips. Love to the small and unflappable travellers, Ione and Remy, who saw snow for Anthony Ham the first time on this trip. Thank you, as ever, to Heartfelt thanks to Tasmin Waby; to Ben Cade, Charles: a pro. Yolanda Paredes, Liam and Naia for being such fine companions of the road; and to countless Tasmanians who shared their passion and ACKNOWLEDGMENTS expertise for this wonderful corner of the earth. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, To Marina, Carlota and Valentina – os quiero. Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Charles Rawlings-Way World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Huge thanks to Tasmin for the gig, and to our Sciences, 11, 1633–44. highway-addled co-author Anthony. Thanks also to the all-star in-house Lonely Planet pro- Cover photograph: Dove Lake, Cradle Mountain, duction staff, and the friends who helped us Ian Woolcock/Shutterstock © out on the road and dished the local low-down, 312 book was produced by the Gabrielle Stefanos, Ross Taylor, THIS BOOK following team: Saralinda Turner This 7th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Tasmin Cartographers James Planet’s Tasmania was Waby Leversha, Alison Lyall researched and written Product Editors Kate Cover Researcher Naomi by Anthony Ham, Charles Mathews, Katie O’Connell Parker Rawlings-Way and Meg Worby. Senior Cartographer Julie Thanks to Daniel Corbett, The previous edition was writ- Sheridan Anna Harris, Karyn Noble, ten by Brett Atkinson and Gabi Book Designer Cam Ashley Lauren O’Connell, Martine Mocatta. Anna Krien wrote Power, Dianne Schallmeiner, the Environmental Politics in Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Susan Paterson, Ellie Simpson, Samantha Tasmania chapter. The guide- Tyson, Lauren Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 313 Index A area codes 301 beer 18, 96, 276, 277, see bushwalking 28 Aboriginal history art galleries, see museums also breweries environment 288 Flinders Island 168-9 & galleries Tasmanian Beerfest 63 Bothwell 133-4 Maria Island 141 Arthur Pieman Conservation Ben Lomond National breweries 276 Area 230 Park 199 Mouheneenner people 48 Boag’s Brewery 173-4 Arthur River 228-9 Bennett’s wallabies 253, 282 Nuenonne people 111 Cascade Brewery 56, 96, Arve Road 123 Bicheno 153-7, Truganini 111, 268 155 277, 19, 91 ATMs 298 bicycle travel, see cycling, Aboriginal people 264-7, Iron House Brewery 158-9 mountain biking 268, 272 Australian Antarctic Seven Sheds 214 Division 81-2 Aboriginal sites 228 Binalong Bay 163-4, 35 Two Metre Tall 86 Australian Football League Arthur Pieman birds 285 Brickendon 196 (AFL) 22, 184 Conservation Area 228 birdwatching Bridestowe Lavender Australian Wooden Boat Kutikina Cave 248 Bicheno 154 Estate 166 Festival 21, 63 Preminghana 228 Burnie Penguin Centre 218 Bridport 167-8 Rocky Cape National Low Head Penguin Brown, Bob 195, 271, 288, Park 222 B Tours 191 290 Sundown Point 228 Balfour 230 Mt William National Bruny Island 12, 111-16, abseiling 38, 258, see Bass, George 173, 190 Park 164 112, 12 also rock climbing Bass Strait Maritime Narawntapu National budget 17 Park 191 accommodation 294-6, see Centre 201 Burnie 217-20, 218 Penguin 216 also individual locations bathrooms 301 bus travel 306-7, 309 Tamar Island Wetlands 186 activities 21-3, 296, see Bathurst Harbour 15, 15 bushwalking 15, 18, 27-32, also individual activities, Batman Bridge 188 Bishop and Clerk 93, 93, see also walking locations 142, Battery Point 53-5 92 tours air travel 304-5, see also Bligh, William 111, 264, 267 Bay of Fires 13, 162-4, 13 Arve Road Walks 123 scenic flights Blowhole 101 beaches 20, 34 Bay of Fires Walk 93, 163 Allendale Gardens & Blue Tier 164 Bakers Beach 191 Ben Lomond National Rainforest 226 Boag’s Brewery 173-4 Park 199 Blackmans Bay Beach 82 amusement parks Boat Harbour Beach 221-2 Blue Tier 164 Pandemonium 201 Boat Harbour Beach 221-2 boat travel 305, 306 Bridport Walking Track 167 Tasmazia 212 Friendly Beaches 148 boat trips Cataract Gorge 173 animals 282-6, see Arthur River 228 Cockle Creek 126 also bird-watching, Kingston Beach 81 wildlife-watching, Ocean Beach 239-40 Bicheno 154 Corinna 230 individual species Redbill Beach 154 Bruny Island 113 Cradle Mountain 251 Ansons Bay 163 Sandy Cape Beach 230 Freycinet National Douglas-Apsley National Park 150 Park 157 Antarctica 60 Seven Mile Beach 82 Gordon River 240-1 Federation Peak 260 Australian Antarctic Sisters Beach 222 Hobart 61, 62 Flinders Island 169 Division 81-2 Sloop Beach 163 Launceston 177 Fortescue Bay 104 aquariums Spring Beach 139 Maria Island 142 Franklin-Gordon Wild Seahorse World 188-9 Stieglitz 160 Pieman River 230 Rivers National Park 12, Seaquarium 223 Swimcart Beach 163 Stanley 223 248-9, 12 architecture 66, 176, 217 Waubs Beach 154 Strahan 240-1 Freycinet Peninsula Wineglass Bay 148, 11, 19 Circuit 148 Tasman Peninsula 98-9 Beaconsfield 189 Great Western Tiers 208 Woodbridge 116 Beaumaris 158-9 Hartz Mountains National Map Pages 000 books 262 Beauty Point 188-90 Park 123-4 Photo Pages 000 animals 286 314 bushwalking continued canyoning 252 Coles Bay 146-53, 147 Douglas-Apsley National King Island 232 Cape Bruny Lighthouse 113 Constitution Dock 52-3 Park 157 Lake St Clair 252 Cape Sorell Lighthouse 240 convict sites Dover 124-5 Leeaberra Track 157 Cape Tourville 148 Brickendon 196 drinks 96, 276-7, see Loontitetermairreleho- Cape Wickham 231 Coal Mines Historic also beer, breweries, iner Walk 144 Site 104 distilleries, wine, car travel 307-9 wineries INDEX Maria Island 93, 142 Darlington 142 Carrick 193-4 driving 307-9 Marrawah 227 Female Factory 57 Cascade Brewery 56, 96, driving licences 307 Mt Amos 150 277, 19, 91 Port Arthur Historic Site Dunalley 100 B-F Mt Field National Park Cataract Gorge 173 9, 105, 9 89-90 cathedrals, see churches & Woolmers Estate 195-6 Mt Roland 211 cathedrals cooking courses 88, 194, E Overland Track 11, 93, caves 276 Eaglehawk Neck 100-1 250-1, 11, 13, 92 Gunns Plains Caves 215 Corinna 230-1 East Coast 43, 137-70, 138 Penguin Cradle Trail 216 Hastings Caves & costs 17, 295, 297 climate 137 Port Davey Track 259-60 Thermal Springs 125 Cradle Mountain–Lake St highlights 138 Rocky Cape National Junee Cave 257 Clair National Park 10, travel seasons 137 Park 222 249-57, 250, 10 Mole Creek Karst echidnas 285, 29 South Coast Track 93, National Park 210-11 credit cards 298 economy 263 126, 260 Niggly Cave 257 cricket 23, 60 Eddystone Point Southwest National Remarkable Cave 103 culture 262-3 Lighthouse 163 Park 259-60, 92 caving 38 currawongs 285 electricity 297 St Helens 159 cell phones 16, 301 currency 16, 299 emergencies 17, 297 Tarkine Wilderness 93, cemeteries Currie Lighthouse 231 environmental issues 263, 229-30, 93 Isle of the Dead 105 customs regulations 288-92 Tasman Coastal Trail 101 Pioneer Cemetery 246 304, 305 Franklin River 248, 288-9 Tasman National Park 104 Channel Highway 80-2 cycling 37, 306, see history 271, 272 Tasmanian Trail 37 also mountain biking cheese & cheesemakers logging 289 Three Capes Track 32, 104 Elephant Pass 157 274-5 Tarkine 229 Tullah 236 Hobart 60-1 Bruny Island Cheese wildlife 284 Walls of Jerusalem Co 115 St Helens 160 Evandale 197-9 National Park 211 Grandvewe Cheeses 116 Cygnet 118-19 events, see festivals & Waterfall Bluff 101 King Island Dairy 231 Cygnet Folk Festival 21, 118 events Wineglass Bay 148 Pyengana Dairy Evercreech Forest Reserve business hours 17, 299 Company 162 D 158 chemists 79 dangers, see safe travel exchange rates 17 children, travel with 39-41 C Dark MOFO 22, 63 Exeter 188 Hobart 63 cable hang-gliding 123, 176 Darlington 142 Launceston