Behind the Scenes

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Behind the Scenes

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particularly Mark, Cath, Fred, Lucy and the kids OUR READERS in Hobart, and Helen in Launceston. Special Many thanks to the travellers who used thanks as always to Meg, my road-trippin’ the last edition and wrote to us with help- sweetheart, and our daughters Ione and Remy ful hints, useful advice and interesting who provided countless laughs, unscheduled anecdotes: pit-stops and ground-level perspectives along Brian Rieusset, David Thames, Garry the way. Greenwood, Jan Lehmann, Janice Blakebrough, Jon & Linley Dodd, Kevin Callaghan, Lisa Meg Worby Walker, Megan McKay, Melanie Tait, Owen A big thank you to Tasmin, once again. Kudos Boscheinen, Peter Mill, Richard Scott, Sally to the in-house team at Lonely Planet for turn- McDonald, Trevor Mazzucchelli and Urs Grueter. ing our many weeks of exploration into this most reliable of handheld devices. Cheers to all our Tasmanian friends for great company and AUTHOR THANKS insider tips. Love to the small and unflappable travellers, Ione and Remy, who saw snow for Anthony Ham the first time on this trip. Thank you, as ever, to Heartfelt thanks to Tasmin Waby; to Ben Cade, Charles: a pro. Yolanda Paredes, Liam and Naia for being such fine companions of the road; and to countless Tasmanians who shared their passion and ACKNOWLEDGMENTS expertise for this wonderful corner of the earth. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, To Marina, Carlota and Valentina – os quiero. Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Charles Rawlings-Way World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Huge thanks to Tasmin for the gig, and to our Sciences, 11, 1633–44. highway-addled co-author Anthony. Thanks also to the all-star in-house Lonely Planet pro- Cover photograph: Dove Lake, Cradle Mountain, duction staff, and the friends who helped us Ian Woolcock/Shutterstock © out on the road and dished the local low-down, 312

book was produced by the Gabrielle Stefanos, Ross Taylor, THIS BOOK following team: Saralinda Turner This 7th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Tasmin Cartographers James Planet’s Tasmania was Waby Leversha, Alison Lyall researched and written Product Editors Kate Cover Researcher Naomi by Anthony Ham, Charles Mathews, Katie O’Connell Parker Rawlings-Way and Meg Worby. Senior Cartographer Julie Thanks to Daniel Corbett, The previous edition was writ- Sheridan Anna Harris, Karyn Noble, ten by Brett Atkinson and Gabi Book Designer Cam Ashley Lauren O’Connell, Martine Mocatta. Anna Krien wrote Power, Dianne Schallmeiner, the Environmental Politics in Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Susan Paterson, Ellie Simpson, Samantha Tasmania chapter. The guide- Tyson, Lauren Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 313

Index

A area codes 301 beer 18, 96, 276, 277, see bushwalking 28 Aboriginal history art galleries, see museums also breweries environment 288 Flinders Island 168-9 & galleries Tasmanian Beerfest 63 Bothwell 133-4 Maria Island 141 Arthur Pieman Conservation Ben Lomond National breweries 276 Area 230 Park 199 Mouheneenner people 48 Boag’s Brewery 173-4 Arthur River 228-9 Bennett’s wallabies 253, 282 Nuenonne people 111 Cascade Brewery 56, 96, Arve Road 123 Bicheno 153-7, Truganini 111, 268 155 277, 19, 91 ATMs 298 bicycle travel, see cycling, Aboriginal people 264-7, Iron House Brewery 158-9 mountain biking 268, 272 Australian Antarctic Seven Sheds 214 Division 81-2 Aboriginal sites 228 Binalong Bay 163-4, 35 Two Metre Tall 86 Australian Football League Arthur Pieman birds 285 Brickendon 196 (AFL) 22, 184 Conservation Area 228 birdwatching Bridestowe Lavender Australian Wooden Boat Kutikina Cave 248 Bicheno 154 Estate 166 Festival 21, 63 Preminghana 228 Burnie Penguin Centre 218 Bridport 167-8 Rocky Cape National Low Head Penguin Brown, Bob 195, 271, 288, Park 222 B Tours 191 290 Sundown Point 228 Balfour 230 Mt William National Bruny Island 12, 111-16, abseiling 38, 258, see Bass, George 173, 190 Park 164 112, 12 also rock climbing Bass Strait Maritime Narawntapu National budget 17 Park 191 accommodation 294-6, see Centre 201 Burnie 217-20, 218 Penguin 216 also individual locations bathrooms 301 bus travel 306-7, 309 Tamar Island Wetlands 186 activities 21-3, 296, see Bathurst Harbour 15, 15 bushwalking 15, 18, 27-32, also individual activities, Batman Bridge 188 Bishop and Clerk 93, 93, see also walking locations 142, Battery Point 53-5 92 tours air travel 304-5, see also Bligh, William 111, 264, 267 Bay of Fires 13, 162-4, 13 Arve Road Walks 123 scenic flights Blowhole 101 beaches 20, 34 Bay of Fires Walk 93, 163 Allendale Gardens & Blue Tier 164 Bakers Beach 191 Ben Lomond National Rainforest 226 Boag’s Brewery 173-4 Park 199 Blackmans Bay Beach 82 amusement parks Boat Harbour Beach 221-2 Blue Tier 164 Pandemonium 201 Boat Harbour Beach 221-2 boat travel 305, 306 Bridport Walking Track 167 Tasmazia 212 Friendly Beaches 148 boat trips Cataract Gorge 173 animals 282-6, see Arthur River 228 Cockle Creek 126 also bird-watching, Kingston Beach 81 wildlife-watching, Ocean Beach 239-40 Bicheno 154 Corinna 230 individual species Redbill Beach 154 Bruny Island 113 Cradle Mountain 251 Ansons Bay 163 Sandy Cape Beach 230 Freycinet National Douglas-Apsley National Park 150 Park 157 Antarctica 60 Seven Mile Beach 82 Gordon River 240-1 Federation Peak 260 Australian Antarctic Sisters Beach 222 Hobart 61, 62 Flinders Island 169 Division 81-2 Sloop Beach 163 Launceston 177 Fortescue Bay 104 aquariums Spring Beach 139 Maria Island 142 Franklin-Gordon Wild Seahorse World 188-9 Stieglitz 160 Pieman River 230 Rivers National Park 12, Seaquarium 223 Swimcart Beach 163 Stanley 223 248-9, 12 architecture 66, 176, 217 Waubs Beach 154 Strahan 240-1 Freycinet Peninsula Wineglass Bay 148, 11, 19 Circuit 148 Tasman Peninsula 98-9 Beaconsfield 189 Great Western Tiers 208 Woodbridge 116 Beaumaris 158-9 Hartz Mountains National Map Pages 000 books 262 Beauty Point 188-90 Park 123-4 Photo Pages 000 animals 286 314 bushwalking continued canyoning 252 Coles Bay 146-53, 147 Douglas-Apsley National King Island 232 Cape Bruny Lighthouse 113 Constitution Dock 52-3 Park 157 Lake St Clair 252 Cape Sorell Lighthouse 240 convict sites Dover 124-5 Leeaberra Track 157 Cape Tourville 148 Brickendon 196 drinks 96, 276-7, see Loontitetermairreleho- Cape Wickham 231 Coal Mines Historic also beer, breweries, iner Walk 144 Site 104 distilleries, wine, car travel 307-9 wineries INDEX INDEX Maria Island 93, 142 Darlington 142 Carrick 193-4 driving 307-9 Marrawah 227 Female Factory 57 Cascade Brewery 56, 96, driving licences 307 Mt Amos 150 277, 19, 91 Port Arthur Historic Site Dunalley 100 B-F Mt Field National Park Cataract Gorge 173 9, 105, 9  89-90 cathedrals, see churches & Woolmers Estate 195-6  Mt Roland 211 cathedrals cooking courses 88, 194, E Overland Track 11, 93, caves 276 Eaglehawk Neck 100-1 250-1, 11, 13, 92 Gunns Plains Caves 215 Corinna 230-1 East Coast 43, 137-70, 138 Penguin Cradle Trail 216 Hastings Caves & costs 17, 295, 297 climate 137 Port Davey Track 259-60 Thermal Springs 125 Cradle Mountain–Lake St highlights 138 Rocky Cape National Junee Cave 257 Clair National Park 10, travel seasons 137 Park 222 249-57, 250, 10 Mole Creek Karst echidnas 285, 29 South Coast Track 93, National Park 210-11 credit cards 298 economy 263 126, 260 Niggly Cave 257 cricket 23, 60 Eddystone Point Southwest National Remarkable Cave 103 culture 262-3 Lighthouse 163 Park 259-60, 92 caving 38 currawongs 285 electricity 297 St Helens 159 cell phones 16, 301 currency 16, 299 emergencies 17, 297 Tarkine Wilderness 93, cemeteries Currie Lighthouse 231 environmental issues 263, 229-30, 93 Isle of the Dead 105 customs regulations 288-92 Tasman Coastal Trail 101 Pioneer Cemetery 246 304, 305 Franklin River 248, 288-9 Tasman National Park 104 Channel Highway 80-2 cycling 37, 306, see history 271, 272 Tasmanian Trail 37 also mountain biking cheese & cheesemakers logging 289 Three Capes Track 32, 104 Elephant Pass 157 274-5 Tarkine 229 Tullah 236 Hobart 60-1 Bruny Island Cheese wildlife 284 Walls of Jerusalem Co 115 St Helens 160 Evandale 197-9 National Park 211 Grandvewe Cheeses 116 Cygnet 118-19 events, see festivals & Waterfall Bluff 101 King Island Dairy 231 Cygnet Folk Festival 21, 118 events Wineglass Bay 148 Pyengana Dairy Evercreech Forest Reserve business hours 17, 299 Company 162 D 158 chemists 79 dangers, see safe travel exchange rates 17 children, travel with 39-41 C Dark MOFO 22, 63 Exeter 188 Hobart 63 cable hang-gliding 123, 176 Darlington 142 Launceston 180 Cadbury Chocolate Deloraine 208-9 Factory 58 chocolate factories 58, 206 F d’Entrecasteaux, Bruni 111, Falls Festival 23, 64 Calcified Forest 232 churches & cathedrals 117, 267 Farm Gate Market 48 Campbell Town 132-3 Auld Kirk 188 Derby 165-6 Female Factory 57 campsites Christ Church Derwent Valley 135-6 (Longford) 195 ferries 305, 306 Bay of Fires 163 Devil’s Kitchen 101 Church of St Matthew 86 festivals & events 20, 21-3, Ben Lomond National Devonport 44, 201-6, 204 see also music festivals St Andrews Anglican Park 199 Diamond Island 153-4 Church 198 Australian Wooden Boat Freycinet National disabilities, travellers Festival 21, 63 St Andrews Uniting Park 151 with 302 (Presbyterian) Blessing of the Harvest Lake Pedder distilleries Festival 196 Impoundment 258 Church 197-8 St David’s Cathedral 57 Hellyers Road Distillery Cygnet Folk Festival Marrawah 227 217-18 21, 118 canoeing 34, see also cinemas Lark Distillery 53, 96, 96 Dark MOFO 22, 63 kayaking, rafting, sea Hobart 77, 78 Derby River Derby 165 kayaking Launceston 184 Nant Distillery 133-4 Evandale Village New Norfolk 87 Queenstown 247 Redlands Estate Distillery 88 Fair & National Pieman River 230 climate 16, 296, see also Penny Farthing individual locations diving, see scuba diving & snorkelling Championships 198 Coal Mines Historic Festivale 177 Map Pages Site 104 Donaldson, Mary 81 000 Fingal Valley Festival 158 Photo Pages Cockle Creek 126 Doo Town 100 000 Glover Art Prize 198 315 Henley-on-the-Mersey farms 88, 99, 115, 116, Battery Point 53-5 festivals & events 63-4 Carnival 207 134, 136, 190 Brickendon 196 food 46, 69-75 Junction Arts Festival 177 festivals 63-4, 122, 177, Callington Mill 129 highlights 47 Latrobe Chocolate 253, 274 Carrick Mill 193 internet access 78-9 Winterfest 207 honey 211 Clarendon 197 itineraries 49 Latrobe Wheel Race 207 olive farms 217 Coal Mines Historic medical services 79

Launceston Cup 177 oyster farms 115 Site 104 sights 48-60 INDEX Longford Revival Festival raspberry farms 209 Custom House 176 tourist information 79 196 salmon farms 208 Eaglehawk Neck 101 tours 61-2 MONA FOMA 21, 63 -tours 61, 62 Entally Estate 193 travel seasons 46  F

Muralfest 213-14  K websites 273, 275 Female Factory 57 travel to/from 79 Rosebery Festival 237 Forester kangaroos 282 Ford’s Store 223 travel within 79-80 Royal Launceston Show Fortescue Bay 103-4 Franklin House 175 walking tour 59, 59 177 Fossil Bluff 220 Gaiety Grand 238 holidays 299 Savour Tasmania Food foxes 284 Festival 63 Henty House 176 Hollybank Treetops Franklin-Gordon Wild Highfield 223 Adventure 193 SteamFest 213 Rivers National Park 12, Hobart Real Tennis Holwell Gorge 189 Sydney to Hobart Yacht 248-9, 12 Race 23, 58, 64 Club 49 Home Hill 201 Franklin River blockade 248 Tasmanian Breath of Holyman House 176 Honeymoon Bay 148 French explorers 117, 147, 267 Fresh Air Film Home Hill 201 horse riding Frenchmans Cap 249 Festival 177 Joe Lyons Cottage 223 Cradle Mountain 252 Freycinet National Park 11, Tasmanian Craft Fair 208 Old Hobart Town Huonville 120 146-53, 149, 11 Historical Model Taste of Tasmania 23, Lake Barrington 212 Village 83 63-4, 94 Narawntapu National Old Umbrella Shop 175 Taste of the Huon 122 G Park 191 Parliament House 48-9 Tastings at the Top 253 galleries, see museums & hot springs 125 Penitentiary Chapel Zeehan Gem & Mineral galleries Huon pines 286 Historic Site 48 Fair 238 gardens, see parks & Huonville 119-22 gardens Port Arthur Historic Site film festivals 23, 177 hypothermia 32 films 262 gay travellers 297 9, 105, 9 Fingal Valley 158 Geeveston 122-3 Richmond Gaol Historic Site 83 fire safety 32 geography 278-9 I Runnymede 58 immigration 304 fishing 36-7 George Town 190-1 Sherwood Hall 207 insurance Currawong Lakes 133 golf Shot Tower (Taroona) 80-1 car 307 Eaglehawk Neck 101 Bridport 167 Theatre Royal 49 health 297-8 Flinders Island 169 Ratho Farm 134 Town Hall (Hobart) 57 travel 297-8 King Island 232 Gowrie Park 211-12 Town Hall (Launceston) Granville Harbour 240 internet access 298 Lake Country 134 176 Great Lake 134 internet resources 17 Lake Pedder Van Diemen’s Land itineraries 24-6, 24, 25, 26 Impoundment 258 Greens political party Company Store 223 271, 288 Hobart 49 Mt William National Water Tower 197 Park 164 Gunns Limited 290-1 Willow Court 86-7 Pieman River 230 Woolmers Estate 195-6 J Rosebery 237 H Wybalenna Historic jet boating 120 St Helens 159 Hadspen 193-4 Site 169 Strahan 240 Hagley 194 history 264-72, see also Flanagan, Richard 196 Aboriginal history K Hamilton 135-6 kangaroos 282 Flinders, Matthew 173, Hartz Mountains National Chinese settlers 165 190, 267 kayaking, see Park 123-4 French explorers 117, also canoeing, rafting, Flinders Island 168-70 Hastings Caves & Thermal 147, 267 sea kayaking food 11, 18, 95, 262, 263, Springs 125 hitching 309 Freycinet National 273-6, see also drinks, health 297 Hobart 10, 42, 46, 78, 47, Park 150 individual locations insurance 297-8 50-1, 54, 56, 10 Pieman River 230 cheese & cheesemakers accommodation 46, 64-9 115, 116, 162, 231, Henty Dunes 240 Southwest region 257 274-5 hiking, see bushwalking activities 60-1 Strahan 241 chocolate factories historic buildings & sites climate 46 Kempton 131 58, 206 18-19 drinking & nightlife 76-7 Kettering 110-11 Albert Hall 176 cooking courses 88, emergencies 78 King Island 231-2, 35 194, 276 Archer’s Folly 193 entertainment 77-8 king’s lomatia 287 316 Kingston 81-2 Low Head 191-2 Australian Axeman’s Hall Moonah Arts Centre Art Koonya 102-3 Lune River 126 of Fame 207 Gallery 58 Australian Fly Fishing Mural House 213 Museum 197 Museum of Fine Arts 49 L M Bark Mill Museum 144 Narryna Heritage Lake Barrington 212 magazines 299 Bass & Flinders Centre Museum 57 Lake Burbury 244, 246 Makers’ Workshop 217

INDEX INDEX 190 National Automobile Lake Country 134-5 maps 28, 78 Bass Strait Maritime Museum of Lake Leake 133 Margate 110 Centre 201 Tasmania 175 Lake Pedder Maria Island National Park Beaconsfield Mine and Pearn’s Steam World 194 -K  Impoundment 258 15, 140-3, 141, 14 Heritage Centre 189 Queen Victoria Museum N  language 16 Maritime Museum of Bicheno Motorcycle & Art Gallery 173 Lark Distillery 53, 96, 96 Tasmania 48 Museum 153 Ross Female Factory 130 Latrobe 206-8 markets Bligh Museum of Pacific Southern Design Centre Launceston 12, 44, 171, 173- Cygnet Market 118 Exploration 111 122 86, 172, 174, 178, 12 Evandale Market 197 Burnie Regional Art Tasmanian Copper & Gallery 218 accommodation 171, Farm Gate Market 48 Metal Art Gallery 193 177-81 Harvest 185 Burnie Regional Tasmanian Cricket Museum 218 activities 176-7 Penguin Market 216 Museum 60 Campbell Town climate 171 Salamanca Market 15, Tasmanian Museum & Museum 132 Art Gallery 53 drinking & nightlife 184 53, 14, 94 Circular Head Heritage Tasmanian Transport entertainment 184 Marrawah 227 Centre 225 Museum 60 festivals & events 177 Mawson’s Huts Replica Court House History Tasmanian Wool Centre Museum 53 food 171, 181-4 Room 113 130-1 Maydena 257-8 highlights 172 Cygnet Living History Tin Dragon Interpretation shopping 185 measures 299 Museum 118 Centre 165 sights 173-5 Melaleuca 260 Deloraine Museum 208 Tramway Museum 175 tours 177 Mersey Bluff Lighthouse 201 Derby Schoolhouse Vintage Tractor Shed travel seasons 171 mobile phones 16, 301 Museum 165 Museum 194 travel to/from 185-6 Mole Creek 209-10 Design Centre West Coast Heritage travel within 186 MONA 9, 57-8, 8 Tasmania 174-5 Centre 237-8 leeches 300 MONA FOMA 21, 63 Devonport Regional West Coast Reflections Gallery 201 legal matters 298 money 16, 17, 298 238 Don River Railway 201 Legana 186-8 discount cards 296-7 Wilderness Gallery 250 East Coast Heritage motorcycle travel 307-9 Wonders of Wynyard 220 Legerwood 166 Museum 143 mountain biking 37-8, see Wooden Boat Centre 120 lesbian travellers 297 Eric Thomas Galley also cycling music festivals Leven Canyon 215 Museum 245 Blue Tier 164 Falls Festival 23, 64 libraries 49 Female Factory 57 Hobart 62 Festival of Voices 63 Liffey Valley 195 Forest & Heritage lighthouses Launceston 176 Centre 122 MONA FOMA 21, 63 Cape Bruny Maria Island 142 Furneaux Museum 169 mutton birds 285 Lighthouse 113 Mt Amos 150 Hamilton Heritage Cape Sorell Mt Anne Range 260 Centre 135 N Lighthouse 240 Mt Arthur 192 History Room Narawntapu National Cape Tourville Mt Farrell 236 (Oatlands) 129 Park 191 Lighthouse 148 Mt Field National Park 89-90 John Temple Gallery 194 national parks & reserves Currie Lighthouse 231 Mt Murchison 236 Kelp Industries’ Visitor 279-82 Eddy­stone Point Mt Nelson 57 Centre 232 Ben Lomond National Lighthouse 163 Mt Ossa 249, 251, 29 Kentish Museum 213 Park 199 Low Head Lighthouse 191 Mt Roland 211 King Island Museum 231 Brady’s Lookout State Mersey Bluff Reserve 187 Mt Tanner 169 Lady Franklin Gallery 58 Lighthouse 201 LARQ Gallery 244 Bridport Wildflower Mt Wellington 56-7, 5 Lilydale 192-3 Low Head Pilot Station Reserve 167 literature, see books Mt William National Park Bruny Island Neck 111 164 Museum 191 logging 289 Cradle Mountain–Lake museums & galleries Makers’ Workshop 217 Longford 195-7 St Clair National Park Apple Shed 119-20 Maritime Museum of Tasmania 48 10, 249-57, 250, 10 Australasian Golf Douglas-Apsley National Museum 134 Mawson’s Huts Replica Map Pages 000 Museum 53 Park 157 Australian Army Museum Evercreech Forest Photo Pages 000 MONA 9, 57-8, 8 Tasmania 49-52 Reserve 158 317 fees & permits 279 Inverawe Native Gardens West Coast Wilderness shopping, see markets, Franklin-Gordon Wild 110 Railway 242 individual locations Rivers National Park Princes Square 175 reserves, see national Sidmouth 188 12, 248-9, 12 Queen’s Domain 58 parks & reserves skiing 38 Freycinet National Park Royal Tasmanian Richmond 82-5, 84 Ben Lomond National 11, 146-53, 11 Botanical Gardens 58 rock climbing 38, see Park 199

Hartz Mountains Trevallyn State also abseiling Mt Field National Park 90 INDEX National Park 123-4 Recreation Area 175-6 Ben Lomond National Sleepy Bay 148 Liffey Falls State Reserve Parliament House 48-9 Park 199 Smithton 225-6 195 Penguin 216-17 Flinders Island 169 -snakes 285-6, 300  N Lime Bay State Reserve Hobart 61 penguins 216, 218, 285 snorkelling, see scuba  T 104 phone cards 301 Launceston 176 diving & snorkelling Maria Island National photography 299 Whitewater Wall 148 Sorell 99-100 Park 15, 140-3, 14 Pieman Heads 230 Rocky Cape National South Arthur Forest Drive Mole Creek Karst Pieman River 230-1 Park 222 226 National Park 210-11 planning, see also Rosebery 236-7 South Bruny National Mt Field National Park individual locations Rosevears 186-8 Park 111 89-90 budgeting 17 Ross 130-2 South Sister 157 Mt William National Southport 125-6 Park 164 bushwalking 27-30 Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens 58 Southwest National Park Narawntapu National calendar of events 21-3 Park 191 children, travel with 39-41 259-60, 92 spiders 300 Rocky Cape National internet resources 17 S sports, see individual sports Park 222 itineraries 24-6, 25, safe travel 299-300 South Bruny National 26, 27 bushwalking 31, 32 Spray Tunnel 238 Park 111 Tasmania basics 16-17 sailing 34-6, see also boat St Helens 159-62, 160 Southwest National Park Tasmania’s regions 42-4 trips St Marys 157-8 259-60, 92 travel seasons 16-17, 21-3 Franklin 120 St Patricks Head 157 Tahune Forest Reserve plants 286-7 Hobart 61 Stanley 222-5, 224 123 platypuses 207, 284-5 Royal Hobart Regatta state reserves, see national Tamar Island Wetlands 63 parks & reserves 186 politics 288-92 Sydney to Hobart Yacht Strahan 238-44, 239 Tasman National Park poppies 195 Race 23, 58, 64 Strathgordon 258 103-4 population 263 Salamanca Market 15, 53, Styx Valley 259 Tinderbox Marine Port Arthur 42, 104-7, 106 14, 94 Reserve 82 Port Arthur Historic Site surfing 34 Salamanca Place 52, 56 Warrawee Forest Reserve 9, 105, 9 King Island 232, 35 207 Port Davey 15 sanctuaries, see wildlife Marrawah 227 parks & sanctuaries New Norfolk 85-7, 86 possums 283, 284 Redbill Beach 154 Scamander 158-9 Newall Creek 244 Princess Mary 81 Sorell 99 scenic flights newspapers 299 public holidays 299 Spring Beach 139 Cradle Mountain 253 Nubeena 102-3 pulp mill 290-1 Stieglitz 160 Freycinet National Swansea 143-6, Nut, the 223 Pyengana 162 Park 150 145 swimming 20, 34 Hobart 62 Apsley Waterhole 157 O Q Southwest region 257 Cataract Gorge 173 Oatlands 129-30 quarantine 305 Strahan 241 Flinders Island 169 online resources 17 Queen Victoria Museum & Scottsdale 166-7 Hobart 61 opening hours 17, 299 Art Gallery 173 scuba diving & Orford 139 Queen’s Domain 58 snorkelling 36 King Island 232 Overland Track 11, 93, Queenstown 244-7, 245 Bicheno 154 Launceston 176 250-1, 11, 13, 92 quolls 284 Eaglehawk Neck 101 Mt William National Park 164 Wynyard 221 Narawntapu National sea kayaking 33, 61, 99, Park 191 P R see also canoeing, pademelons 284 radio 299 kayaking, rafting Waubs Beach 154 Painted Cliffs 142 rafting 33, 249, see Seahorse World 188-9 Sydney to Hobart Yacht also canoeing, Race 23, 58, 64 parks & gardens Seaquarium 223 kayaking, sea kayaking Allendale Gardens & senior travellers 297 Rainforest 226 railways Seven Mile Beach 82 Cataract Gorge 173 Ida Bay Railway 126 T sharks 300 Table Cape 220 City Garden Wee Georgie Wood Sheffield 213-14 Table Cape Tulip Farm 220 (Launceston) 174 Steam Railway 236 318 Tahune Forest AirWalk 123 Trail of the Tin Dragon 165 waterfalls Wineglass Bay 148, 11, 19 Tamar Valley 186-93, 187 train travel 310, see Heritage Falls 157 wineries Taranna 102 also railways Hogarth Falls 240 Barringwood Park Tarkine Forest Adventures travel to/from Tasmania Horseshoe Falls 89 Vineyard 213 227 304-5 Lady Barron Falls 89 Bay of Fires Wines 192 Tarkine Wilderness travel within Tasmania Leeaberra Falls 157 Bruny Island Premium

INDEX INDEX 306-10 229-30, 93 Liffey Falls 195 Wines 115 trekking, see bushwalking Taroona 80-1 Lilydale Falls 192 Craigow Vineyard 83 Triabunna 139-40 Tarraleah 136 Mathinna Falls 158 Darlington Vineyard 139 Triabunna Mill 140 T- Tasman, Abel 264, 265 Meander Falls 208 Delamere 

Z Trial Harbour 240 Vineyards 192  Tasman Arch 101 Montezuma Falls 236-7 Truganini 111, 268 Devil’s Corner 143 Tasman National Park Nelson Falls 249 103-4 Tullah 236 Freycinet Vineyard 143 Philosopher’s Falls 230 Tasman Peninsula 42, TV 299 Frogmore Creek 83 Preston Falls 215 97-107, 98 Gala Estate Ralphs Falls 162 accommodation 97 Vineyard 143 U Russell Falls 89 climate 97 Goaty Hill Wines 188 Ulverstone 214-15 Split Rock Falls 208 food 97 Hartzview Vineyard 116 Unesco World Heritage St Columba Falls 162 highlights 98 Home Hill Wines 120 Sites, see convict sites, Stitt Falls 236 tours 98-9 Tasmanian Wilderness Jansz Wine Room 192 weather 16, 296 travel seasons 97 World Heritage Area Leaning Church websites 17 Tasmania Zoo 175 Upper Florentine Valley 259 Vineyard 192 weights 299 Tasmanian devils 250, 283 Leven Valley Vineyard & Weindorfer, Gustav 254 Gallery 215 Tasmanian Museum & Art V Weldborough 164 Gallery 53 Milton Vineyard 143 vacations 299 Westbury 194-5 Tasmanian tigers 283 Moorilla 58 vegetarian travellers 276 Westbury Maze 194 Tasmanian Trail 37 Ninth Island Vineyard Victoria Dock 52-3 Western Arthur Range 260 186-7 Tasmanian Wilderness vineyards, see wineries World Heritage Area Western Explorer 230 Pipers Brook 192 270, 280 visas 16, 302-3 whales 64, 286 Puddleduck Vineyard 83 Taste of Tasmania 23, volunteering 303 whisky 18, 96, 277, see also Spring Vale Wines 143 63-4, 94 distilleries St Imre Vineyard 124 telephone services 16, 300-1 W White Beach 102-3 Tamar Ridge 187 Temma 230 walking, see bushwalking wildlife parks & Unavale Vineyard 169 Tessellated Pavement 101 walking tours 30, see sanctuaries Valleybrook Wine Tours Three Capes Track 32 also bushwalking Bonorong Wildlife 177 Centre 83 thylacines 283 Bay of Fires 163 Vélo Wines 186 Devils@Cradle 250 time 16, 301 Bruny Island 113 Wilmot Hills Vineyard Tasmanian Devil 213 Tinderbox 82 Frenchmans Cap 249 Conservation Park 102 wombats 284 toilets 301 Freycinet National Park 150 Trowunna Wildlife women travellers 303 Totem Pole 104 Park 212 George Town Heritage Woodbridge 116-18 tourism 263 Wings Wildlife Park 215 Trail 190 woodchips 289 tourist information 302 ZooDoo Wildlife Park 83 Hobart 59, 61, 62, 59 Woolnorth 225-6 tours 309-10, see also boat wildlife-watching 19 trips, walking tours Launceston 177 work 303 Burnie Penguin Centre Overland Track 11, 93, World Heritage Sites, Bruny Island 113 218 see convict sites, bus 61-2 250-1, 11, 13, 92 Cradle Mountain 253 Tasmanian Wilderness food 61, 62 Redwater Creek Steam Rail 213 King Island 232 World Heritage Area Hobart 61-2 Sheffield 213 Launceston 177 Wybalenna Historic Site mines 226, 246 169 Southwest 257 Low Head Penguin Port Arthur 105 Tours 191 Wynyard 220-1 Tarkine Wilderness sea kayaking 99 Mt William National 229-30, 93 Tasman Peninsula 98-9 Park 164 Walls of Jerusalem Z wine 62 National Park 211 Narawntapu National Park 177, 191 Zeehan 237-8 Woodbridge 116 Wall in the Wilderness 255 Penguin 216 zoos wallabies 282 Warrawee Forest Reserve East Coast Natureworld Walls of Jerusalem 207 154 Map Pages 000 National Park 211 wine 18, 96, 276-7, see also Tasmania Zoo 175 Photo Pages 000 Waratah 231 wineries ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 319

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS

Anthony Ham Devonport & the Northwest, Cradle Country & the West Anthony was born in Melbourne, grew up in Sydney and has spent much of his adult life travelling the world. He recently returned to Australia after ten years living in Madrid and brings to this guide more than fifteen years’ experience as a travel writer. As a recently returned expat, Anthony is loving the opportunity to rediscover his country and indulge his passion for wilderness. He brings to the book the unique perspective of knowing the land intimately and yet seeing it anew as if through the eyes of an out- sider. Check out his website, anthonyham.com.

Charles Rawlings-Way Co-author: Hobart & Around, Tasman Peninsula & Port Arthur, the Southeast, Midlands & Central Highlands, the East Coast, Launceston & Around As a likely lad, Charles suffered in school shorts through Hobart winters. Ice on the pud- dles, snow on Mt Wellington…he dreamed of one day living somewhere warmer. Now that he does (Adelaide) and the world is hotting up, Hobart is looking good again! Returning to Tasmania on reconnaissance, he was thrilled to discover that his old home town has good coffee now, Launceston has a craft beer hipster bar and there’s still snow on Mt Wellington. Charles has penned 20-something Lonely Planet guidebooks. Charles also co-authored the Plan YourTrip, Understand and Survival Guide sections of this book.

Meg Worby Co-author: Hobart & Around, Tasman Peninsula & Port Arthur, the Southeast, Midlands & Central Highlands, the East Coast, Launceston & Around Tucking in to a creamed scallop pie in Hobart and pondering erstwhile Tasmanian Errol Flynn, Meg realised that a love of beauty, a lust for adventure and a yearning for tights must naturally have begun here. She is a former member of Lonely Planet’s languages, editorial, web and publishing teams in Melbourne and London. This is her ninth Lonely Planet guidebook as co-author, with another dashing Tasmanian. Meg also co-authored the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections of this book.

Contributing Authors Anna Krien wrote the Environmental Politics in Tasmania chapter. Her debut book, Into the Woods: The Battle for Tasmania’s Forests (Black Inc, 2010), won both the Queensland and Victorian Premier’s Literary Awards in 2011. Her writing has appeared in the Big Issue, Frankie, the Age, the Monthly and the Griffith Review, and has been selected for Best Australian Essays and Best Australian Stories.

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