Panel tasting Fronsac & Canon-Fronsac Striving to capture some of the glory of their illustrious neighbours St-Emilion and , these two appellations can offer good value, reports Jane Anson

IT MUST BE tough to be located five minutes from St-Emilion. To know that you have the same limestone Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac 0 1 2 terroir across much of the hillsides – that parts are even 1 Ch Moulin Haut Laroque 8 Ch Cassagne Haut-Canon a continuation of the same plateau, and share the same 2 Ch La Vieille Cure 9 Ch de la Dauphine kilometres 3 Ch Fontenil 10 Ch du Gaby cavernous underground cellars – and yet to be so much 4 Ch de Carles 11 Ch de la Rivière 12 less recognised than your neighbour. 5 Ch Dalem 12 Ch de Roche 6 Ch Villars 13 Ch Haut-Carles A look at land prices shows how much ground 7 Ch Les Trois Croix 14 Ch Arnauton Canon-Fronsac and Fronsac have to make up. Although Canon-Fronsac reaches an average of €60,000 per N hectare compared to €30,000 for Fronsac, both are 3 4 D138 13 significantly less than the €200,000 in St-Emilion Saillans 5 (according to 2014 figures issued by the town D246 1 6 2 hall), and nowhere near Pomerol at €900,000. And just F R O NSAC A89 24% of the region’s production is exported, compared to 7 40% of as a whole. 11 This means there are plenty of opportunities to find St-Aignan 14 value across both appellations from winemakers who Gi ronde Limit of Bordeaux D128 are determined to be taken seriously. The 2012 vintage region MEDOC FRONSAC & CANO N - was good news, as generally speaking the weather CANON- F R O NSAC FRONSAC favoured Right Bank . Flowering was far from HAUT- 10 perfect, but August saw sunny weather that carried on MEDOC 8

Atlantic Ocean Limit of St-Michel to October. and most were Bordeaux Libourne region de-Fronsac Fronsac D EN 9 harvested under perfect conditions. In theory Fronsac Bordeaux EUX-MTREDordogne Ga - D670 produced good that are available at reasonable ronne ER S prices – in our tasting, prices range from £9 to £30. R IGHT Langon B ANK Libourne A89

Merlot heartland Map:Maggie Nelson In terms of styles, these are classic Right Bank, so Merlot-heavy. In Fronsac 80% of the vines are Merlot, Fronsac with the rest Cabernet Franc and . Fronsac & Canon-Fronsac: & Canon- You will almost never find Petit Verdot, though a few know your vintages winemakers, such as Jean-Noël Hervé at Moulin Fronsac: Haut Laroque, are experimenting with . 2014 A highly 2011 A strange year, the facts It’s also not hugely helpful to look for distinct styles promising year that has with summer in spring, Location Right Bank of between the two appellations. In theory Canon-Fronsac become known as the autumn in summer, the , 25km east is higher quality and more structured, but in reality there ‘turnaround vintage’ for spring in autumn. Merlot of Bordeaux are excellent wines in both – although estates located its perfect late season. was uneven, but there Area under vine 1,050ha around the village of Saillans perhaps have the are some enjoyable (hectares): 800ha in advantage of elevation and terroir. Here you’ll find 2013 Perhaps the early-drinking wines. Fronsac, 250ha in names such as Châteaux La Vieille Cure, Fontenil, de most difficult vintage Canon-Fronsac, with 106 Carles, Dalem and Villars. since 1997. The best 2010 One of the winemakers in Fronsac In general, Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac can fall down have refreshing winning vintages of the and 47 in Canon in two areas. Some taste too hard, austere and earthy drinkability, but should past few decades. Annual production compared to the Merlot usually found in St-Emilion or be consumed young. Success on both Left 37,350hl (hectolitres) in Pomerol; while others have high levels of new oak, and Right Banks. Merlot Fronsac (5m bottles); leading to vanilla drenching, or are too concentrated 2012 This year was kept its acidity and fruit 9,800hl in Canon-Fronsac and tannic due to overly reduced yields. The best go for underestimated at the aromatics intact. (1.68m bottles) balance: making the most of the lean savouriness of time. Generally speaking, Export 20% Fronsac, Fronsac tannins while adding plump fruits and floral the Right Bank fared 2009 Ripe, rich, full 30% Canon-Fronsac edging. Besides those mentioned above, established best, where Merlot was of flavour. Fronsac did Grape varieties Merlot names worth looking out for include Châteaux Les Trois able to ripen in hot well, as limestone terroir covers 80% of the area; Croix, Cassagne Haut-Canon and La Dauphine. summer weather before and Cabernet Franc the rest of the vines are the rains of late kept alcohol in check. Cabernet Franc and Jane Anson is Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent and September arrived. Be wary of over-oaking. Cabernet Sauvignon, the author of Bordeaux Legends on clay-limestone soils ➢

DECANTER • Bordeaux 2016 | 93 Panel tasting Fronsac & Canon-Fronsac

The results Highly Recommended 90–94pts This Right Bank area is a happy hunting ground for value wines, including many here from the underrated 2012 vintage, said our experts. Amy Wislocki reports

THIS IS A fine historical area,’ observed Steven ‘Good weekday clarets, which Spurrier. ‘Just look at all the grand châteaux in Fronsac The scores Château La Croix de Roche, Château Vrai Canon Bouché, Haut-Carles, Fronsac 2012 92 and you can see how highly regarded the wines were in 48 wines tasted Collection Privée, Fronsac 2012 Canon-Fronsac 2012 SB 94 MR 93 SS 89 don’t suffer from over-oaking Decanter average score: 93/100pts the 18th century – they must have been making a of Exceptional £12-£15 Crump Richmond & Shaw, Fine & Rare, £21 Asset Wines Individual judges’ scores: Stephen Brook 90 money thoughout the 1800s.’ or over-extraction’ Margaret Rand 0 92 SB 93 MR 93 SS 91 Rich, toasty, blackberry and blackcurrant nose ‘But today Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac are among Margaret Rand 95 Steven Spurrier 93 Sturdy, oaky black fruits on the nose, with a with good extraction of meaty Merlot fruit. the least valued appellations in Bordeaux,’ said Stephen Outstanding N/A UK +33 5 57 84 38 52 good weight of fruit and natural ripeness. Fleshy, chocolatey, compact and tannic, it has Brook. ‘Producers can’t charge terribly high prices for commented Brook. ‘Since 2014 the rules and regulations 0 Ripe, autumnal berry fruit aromas. Rich and Robust and forceful on the palate, with a evident structure and elegance with a long, their wines, or they would find them completely for both appellations have been identical, and the terroir broad; a supple and juicy style, with fruit and savoury edge and ample structure, this is a spicy finish. A wine to keep for a bit. Drink Highly impossible, rather than just difficult, to sell.’ is pretty much the same in both areas. The two different texture. Nicely balanced with well integrated very well judged and understated gem of a 2016-2040 Alc 14% Recommended And yet, there’s much to like, agreed our tasters. appellations probably exist for political reasons.’ tannins and acidity; overall a wine which will wine. Drink 2016-2030 Alc 14% ‘What I look for – and what I found in a lot of these wines Are these wines to lay down? ‘They varied in style,’ 16 be a star. Drink 2016-2035 Alcohol 13.5% – is generous black fruits and judicious use of oak, but said Brook. ‘Some were appealing and limpid and could Recommended not at the expense of vigour and freshness,’ continued be enjoyed fairly young. Others were more structured 19 Brook. ‘Some of the wines lack nuance, but the generosity and demanding, and required some cellaring. The best of fruit should compensate for that.’ will go on for another decade or so without any problem. Commended ‘There shouldn’t be any ‘A very tasting,’ agreed Margaret Rand. ‘These ‘There shouldn’t be any great rush to drink Fronsac,’ 11 Château Arnauton, Fronsac great rush to drink Château de La Rivière, Fronsac are good weekday clarets, with good balance. They he added. ‘These are wines with structure – sometimes Fair 2012 91 SB 87 MR 93 SS 94 2012 91 SB 93 MR 89 SS 90 didn’t suffer from over-extraction or over-oaking, which even too much structure.’ 1 Fronsac. These are they sometimes have done in the past. There was a little Spurrier admitted to feeling slightly underwhelmed £12.50 (2009) World Wines £15 Enotria & Coe rusticity and greenness, but hey, I’m English, I don’t mind at the end of the tasting: ‘Some of the wines had Poor Black fruits and graphite on the nose, it is wines with structure’ Young, exuberant and very ripe black fruits on a bit of greenness – it can add freshness.’ florality, which I loved, but I expected the vigour of this 1 savoury with very good natural ripeness on Stephen Brook the nose, with some florality. Quite a savoury You do have to choose your vintage carefully though, area to come through more, rather than the rusticity. the palate and fine oak. Classic and structured, palate, with a light touch and almost delicate Faulty she cautioned, as it’s a marginal area and so vintage At their best these wines can easily rival grand cru there is elegant depth and complexity to tannins, this is a well balanced, decent claret differences shine through. All three agreed that 2012 St-Emilion, and even grand cru classé St-Emilion. But 0 come. A serious wine with lovely poise. with fairly good length and a chocolately was the star of the show here. ‘It’s an underrated year, some of these lacked precision. These showed as good Drink 2016-2040 Alc 13.5% finish. Drink 2016-2028 Alc 14% and many of the wines were absolutely delicious,’ said weekday claret – as Michael Broadbent would say: “Good, Brook. ‘As there’s a lot of clay in this area you can get workmanlike wines”. But they are capable of more.’ ferocious tannins, especially in an unripe year. But 2012 ‘If you want to drink lesser claret, this is a very good was sufficiently ripe that there weren’t many harsh place to look,’ concluded Rand. ‘They are jolly good tannins.’ He agreed that there were a few wines that value,’ agreed Brook. ‘Most wines will be under or Entry criteria: producers exhibited rusticity and/or greenness, ‘but the majority around the £20 mark, and the best of them get close to and UK agents were Château Gaby, Canon-Fronsac Château Magondeau, Passion Château Barrabaque, Prestige, were well made, balanced, juicy and enjoyable.’ St-Emilion, which will be two or three times the price at invited to submit their 2012 91 SB 92 MR 91 SS 89 de Magondeau, Fronsac 2012 91 Canon-Fronsac 2012 90 SB 91 MR latest-release of Fronsac SB 92 MR 93 SS 87 89 SS 89 Is the difference between Fronsac and Canon- that quality. There were a lot of wines here that I would or Canon-Fronsac. Two £22 Whitehalls Fronsac apparent in the glass? No, said our tasters. ‘I don’t be happy to drink, and to have in my cellar – especially wines per producer were A very ripe nose of damsons and chocolate. N/A UK www.chateaumagondeau.com N/A UK www.chateaubarrabaque.com think anyone could tell the difference in a blind tasting,’ at these prices,’ he concluded. permitted. Rich and svelte on the palate, with fine- A ripe and classic nose of cigar box and Sweet, juicy, blackberry and blackcurrant grained tannins and impressive density of graphite, with some florality. Medium-bodied, nose. Zesty, with an oaky lift. Good richness fruit. Some nice grape skin notes balance the it is stylish and graceful with delicious, well- for 2012, it’s certainly forward yet supple and richness, giving good lift to the palate. Lush, expressed red fruits and some herbal notes, balanced, with freshness and ample acidity The judges opulent and harmonious with a long, zesty very aromatic and very long. Here is a serious that carries the wine through to a good meaty finish. Drink 2016-2030 Alc 14% wine that sings. Drink 2016-2035 Alc 14% finish. Drink 2016 2027 Alc 14.5% Stephen Brook Margaret Rand Steven Spurrier Brook began his Margaret Rand is a Steven Spurrier is writing career in past editor of Wine consultant editor of 1982 and has been a Magazine, Wine & Decanter and joined contributing editor to Spirit International the wine trade in 1964. Decanter since 1996. and Whisky Magazine. He moved to to Château Canon St-Michel, Château Capet Bégaud, Canon- Château Hervé-Laroque, He is Chair of the She has won several open a wine shop in Canon-Fronsac 2012 90 SB 90 MR Fronsac 2010 90 SB 91 MR 93 SS 87 Fronsac 2012 90 SB 91 MR 89 SS 91 89 SS 92 Bordeaux panels at Roederer and Lanson 1971, later launching N/A UK www.chateau-coustolle.eu £16-£19 Asset Wines the Decanter World awards and now L’Academie du Vin in N/A UK www.vins-millaire.fr A robust and meaty nose, this is a bold and An opulent, slightly charred nose, with dense Wine Awards and has writes for World of 1973 and staging the Forward and silky with good depth of fruit, voluptuous wine, very rich and concentrated, blackberry fruit. The palate brings lots of served as an international wine judge around Fine Wine, Drinks Business, Decanter and historic Judgement of Paris tasting in 1976. elegantly expressed with some florality, while with formidable tannins. Lots of well- freshness and lift, with a fine natural ripeness the world. The author of more than 30 books, Imbibe among other publications. She is He has won several awards, including Le retaining Fronsac’s robustness. There is a extracted fruit and a dense, tannic structure, and bold, chewy tannins. It is slightly rustic his works include Bordeaux: People, Power and general editor of the annual Hugh Johnson’s Personalité de l’Année for services to French slight rusticity yet nicely balanced. Appetising there is good acidity, some freshness and and quite long. A very good modern Fronsac. Politics (2001) and The Complete Bordeaux Pocket Wine Book and co-author (with Oz wine, and is chairman of the Decanter World and succulent with a long and fresh finish. quite a long finish. Drink 2016-2030 Alc 15% Drink 2016-2026 Alc 14.5% ➢ (2007, second edition 2012). Clarke) of Grapes & Wines. Wine Awards and Decanter Asia Wine Awards. Drink 2016-2026 Alc 13.5%

94 | Bordeaux 2016 • DECANTER DECANTER • Bordeaux 2016 | 95 Fronsac & Canon-Fronsac

Highly Recommended (continued) 90–94pts

Château Moulin Pey-Labrie, Château Villars, Fronsac 2012 Galand, Château Canon, Canon-Fronsac 2005 90 SB 91 MR 90 SB 95 MR 81 SS 93 Canon-Fronsac 2012 90 SB 90 MR 93 SS 87 89 SS 90 £25-£30 Justerini & Brooks, Robert Anthony POA Private Cellar Fine black fruits on the nose with some £29.99 Ashdown Wines A lovely cedary, herbal, tobacco nose, the florality. There is considerable purity of fruit Fine natural red and black fruits on the nose. palate very poised, silky and complex with that is concentrated and slightly rustic, but not Has a suave texture, with more elegance than plump, meaty fruit. Nicely mature, this is a too dense. With fine-grained tannins and an power. Fresh and juicy with a fruit-derived concentrated wine with firm tannins. A wine of overall impeccable balance, this wine has vivacity on the palate, this is a well-balanced charm and conviction, it is at its best but will good length and vineyard expression. Drink wine. Very attractive, harmonious and long. endure a while. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 14% 2016-2030 Alc 14% Drink 2016-2025 Alc 13%

‘At their best these wines can easily rival Junayme, Canon-Fronsac 2014 Vignobles Hermouet, Clos du 90 SB 89 MR 89 SS 91 Roy, Fronsac 2012 90 SB 92 MR 89 grand cru St-Emilion, SS 89 N/A UK +33 5 57 51 64 06 Fresh and light but nicely poised with florality N/A UK www.vignobleshermouet.com and even grand cru and ripeness on the nose, it is smooth and rich Black fruits on the nose. Youthful, fleshy fruit classé St-Emilion’ with ripe strawberry fruit and a suave texture and bright acidity; fresh yet opulent with some Steven Spurrier thanks to the integrated tannins. This is an tannic grip too. Balanced with nice precision elegant, classy wine, with modest length. and elegance, plus a long, firm finish, this is a Drink 2016-2030 Alc 13.5% wine with a future. Drink 2016-2030 Alc 14%

Recommended 86–89pts Wine Score SB MR SS Tasting note Alc Drink Price Stockists

Château de Carles, 89 89 87 90 Nicely concentrated autumnal fruit on the nose. A bit tight, though well 13.5% 2016- N/A UK www.hautcarles.com Fronsac 2012 assembled and balanced, with appealing fruit and fair acidity. 2024

Château Du Gazin, 89 92 89 86 An earthy, lush black cherry nose; ripe, juicy and slightly toffeed, fruit cake 14% 2016- £11.99 Waitrose Canon-Fronsac 2012 palate. Tannins need time, but fine acidity and a long finish. 2030

Château Les Trois Croix, 89 92 84 91 A meaty and autumnal nose. There is some freshness of blackcurrant fruit. 14% 2016- £15 Ellis of Richmond, Millésima Fronsac 2012 This is a rustic, medium-bodied wine with a solid finish. 2028

Château Mayne-Vieil, 89 87 92 89 Ripe cherry nose, with leafy mocha tones; creamy and supple with good 14% 2016- £11.50 Great Grog, Noel Young Cuvée Alienor, Fronsac 2012 expression of fruit, mild tannins and acidity. A slightly alcoholic finish. 2035

Dubois, Bozelle, Fronsac 2014 89 86 93 89 Plump blackberry fruit nose; concentrated, punchy and assertive with the 13.7% 2017- N/A UK +33 5 57 51 73 78 odd green touch. This has good weight and poise with medium length. 2030

Château de La Dauphine, 88 89 88 86 A toasty blackberry and meaty nose with supple, juicy palate. There is ample 15% 2016- £15-£20 Asset Wines, Millésima, The Wine Society Fronsac 2012 fruit and a chewy rusticity. 2025

Château Jeandeman, 88 89 85 89 A savoury, tobacco nose, quite rich and concentrated, with good vineyard 13% 2016- N/A UK www.roy-trocard.com La Chêneraie, Fronsac 2012 expression; this has weight and drive. 2030

Château Tour Canon, 88 85 90 88 Discreet black cherry nose with some florality; pretty and light with brisk, ripe 13% 2016- £9 World Wines Canon-Fronsac 2012 tannins, this is graceful and very well balanced. 2030 (2010)

Château Fontenil, 87 87 88 85 Floral and a bit green. There is good robust fruit in a light year. Hefty tannins 14% 2016- £17-£19 Bancroft Fronsac 2011 demand patience; a pretty wine, and fairly long. 2025

Château Magondeau, 87 86 90 84 Slightly meaty and herbal. Supple and rounded, with good weight of fruit and 14% 2016- N/A UK www.chateaumagondeau.com Beau Site, Fronsac 2012 firm but ripe tannins, leading to a long finish. 2030

Château Moulin Haut Villars, 87 82 91 89 Quite young, cherry nose; supple smoothness of fruit and good structure that 13.5% 2016- £15-£20 Justerini & Brooks, Robert Anthony Wines Fronsac 2012 is taut and poised. A serious wine; this will be good. 2040 ➢

96 | Bordeaux 2016 • DECANTER Panel tasting Fronsac & Canon-Fronsac

Recommended (continued) 86–89pts Wine Score SB MR SS Tasting note Alc Drink Price Stockists Expert summary: Jane Anson Château Roullet, 87 87 84 90 Florality and red/black fruits nose with plump, juicy, solid fruit and firm 13.5% 2016- £20 Le Cave de Bruno A respectable performance from the 2012 vintage proves that these appellations are Canon-Fronsac 2012 tannins. Slightly leathery and rustic, good typicity and a long finish. 2030 a reliable choice for good-value Bordeaux and hints at even better quality to come Vignobles Dubech, Château des 87 91 85 86 Lush, toasty, blackberry nose. Supple and concentrated with firm tannins, 13.5% 2016- N/A UK www.vignoblesdubech.fr 3 Seigneurs, Fronsac 2011 spice and pepper giving complexity. Well balanced, it is appetising and long. 2025 THE RESULTS OF the tasting largely bear out the idea Fronsacs (so over £15 retail price per bottle) were www.chateau-coustolle.eu Château Coustolle, 86 82 89 88 Finely expressed red fruit aromas with slight herbaceousness; tobacco and 13% 2016- N/A UK that 2012 is a solid and mostly successful vintage, with recognised as medal winners. In this Recommended Canon-Fronsac 2012 coffee tones. Soft and rounded with ripe fruit and some grip. Drink now. 2025 plenty of pleasurable drinking on offer. Many of the section are some wines that have proved extremely Château Grand Renouil, 86 90 83 85 Quite earthy, autumnal nose. It is velvety and plump, with the tannins and 14% 2016- £25-£28 Fields Morris & Verdin, Woodwinters descriptions of the wines highlight the classic Right consistent over recent vintages, such as Château Les Canon-Fronsac 2012 acidity in balance. Robust, juicy and spicy, with a slightly rustic finish. 2030 Bank assets: ripe, sweet autumnal fruits, fleshy, supple, Trois Croix, owned by Patrick Léon, ex-winemaker at juicy… all the things that you come to Fronsac for, but Mouton Rothschild, and Château de La Dauphine, Château Junayme, Château 86 85 86 87 A light, fresh, blackberry nose. This is quite lean with good ripe fruit and 14% 2016- N/A UK +33 5 57 51 64 06 Canon, Canon-Fronsac 2014 tobacco notes; classic with a spicy finish, it has a good future. 2030 that aren’t always achievable in more difficult vintages. another estate that is farming organically and Although there were no Outstanding wines, of the 48 biodynamically (certified this year, and just starting H2Vin Château La Rousselle, 86 82 92 84 Nice expression of Fronsac fruit with violet aromas. Concentrated spice 13.5% 2016- £30 wines tasted 16 were scored 90 or above, taking them its certification process in this 2012 vintage). Fronsac 2011 and fruit, tobacco with meaty tannins, medium length and fine structure. 2020 into the Highly Recommended bracket. For wines that These are wines that by-and-large are for drinking Château La Vieille Cure, 86 88 80 90 Dense, oaky, black fruit nose with some vanilla. Rich, plump fruit with some 14% 2016- £18.95 From Vineyards Direct come in at under £30 across the board, that has got to now and over the next decade, as you would expect Fronsac 2012 force and acidity; tannins are integrated, if a little chewy. 2025 (2004) Jane Anson is Decanter’s be an impressive result, especially for an appellation that from their Merlot-dominant blends, although Château Bordeaux correspondent remains stubbornly under the radar. Many of the most Haut-Carles and Château Arnauton in particular were Château Lafond, 86 83 90 85 Fresh, red summer fruits nose. The palate is soft-textured, with some natural 13.5% 2016- N/A UK www.chateau-mazeris.com Canon-Fronsac 2012 elegance and good precision, plus some spice on the finish. 2030 and the author of respected names are in this top section of the tasting, singled out for their ageability. Overall, this is a tasting Bordeaux Legends including Château Gaby and Château de La Rivière – and that bears out the idea that Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac it’s good to know that the top wine, Château La Croix de have come out fighting in recent years, trying to inch Commended 83-85pts Les Roches de Ferrand, Fronsac 2012 84, 13.5%, Fair 76-82pts D n Château Labory, Fronsac 2011 85, 14%, 2016-2018, 2016-2022, N/A UK www.vignoblesrousselot.free.fr n n Château Haut Lariveau, Fronsac 2009 82 Roche, is farmed organically. their way back to prominence on the Right Bank map. N/A UK www.chateaulabory.unblog.fr n Château Château Mayne-Vieil, Fronsac 2012 84, 14%, 2016- In total, 19 further wines came in with a score of Richelieu, Fronsac 2012 85, 13.5%, 2016-2020, N/A 2022, £10.75 Boutinot n Château Tessendey, Fronsac Poor 70-75pts between 85 and 89, so Recommended. At the lower end UK www.chateau-richelieu.com n Vignobles Dubech, 2012 84, 13%, 2016-2020, £15 Alistair Nugent n Château Tour Bel-Air, Fronsac 2010 72 L’Enclos St Louis, Canon-Fronsac 2011 85, 13.5%, n Château Beausejour, Fronsac 2012 83, 13.5%, of the scale, only two wines in the entire tasting didn’t 2016-2027, N/A UK www.vignoblesdubech.fr n Château 2016-2020, £10.50 Haynes Hanson & Clark n Château For full UK stockist details, see p122 receive at least a Commended. This means that well over ‘It’s good to know that the top Cassagne Haut-Canon, La Truffière, Canon- Mazeris, Canon-Fronsac 2013 83, 14%, 2016-2030, half of the tasting made it onto the board in positions Fronsac 2012 84, 13.5%, 2016-2024, POA Vine n N/A UK www.chateau-mazeris.com n Château Vray wine, Chateau la Croix de Roche, Château Dalem, Fronsac 2013 84, 13.5%, 2016-2030, Houchat, Fronsac 2012 83, 13.5%, 2016-2022, that would equal Bronze or Silver medals in the Decanter £13.50 Crump Richmond & Shaw, Fine & Rare n Château N/A UK +33 5 57 24 95 16 World Wine Awards – and all of the higher priced is farmed organically’

My top three My top three My top three DISCOVER THE FINEST FRONSAC WINES Stephen Brook Margaret Rand Steven Spurrier FROM THIS PROUD BORDEAUX APPELLATION ... n Château Vrai Canon Bouché n Château Vrai Canon Bouché n Château Arnauton A fine 24ha The splendid fruit and structure of this There’s a lot of limestone in the vineyard, estate overlooking the River Isle. wine show why some define Fronsac as hence the freshness and tautness of this Arnauton’s wines are as classy as its label: Château Barrabaque an extension of the St-Emilion plateau. predominantly Merlot wine. The tannins deep young colour, lots of black fruits on Château Dalem This property is consistent, but new are beautifully handled and everything is the nose and very good natural ripeness corporate owners took over in 2014, so the restrained: it doesn’t shout. 93 Drink on the palate, fine use of oak, elegance Château Fontenil future is less certain. 93 Drink 2016-2030 2016-2030 and complexity to come. A modern wine Château Gaby in the best sense. 94 Drink 2016-2040 n Haut-Carles This is the prestige n Château Arnauton The south- Haut-Carles cuvée of Château de Carles, a handsome facing slopes here have produced a most n Château Villars I used to buy this Renaissance property run by well-heeled elegant wine; appetising and sappy. It’s wine for my Paris shop in the 1970s and Château de La Dauphine but quality-driven owners. Always fleshy basically Merlot with a bit of Cabernet 1980s and was pleased to see that the Château de La Rivière and concentrated, Haut-Carles never Franc and a dash of Malbec, and it’s far warm extraction of fruit is still there. On disappoints; mostly new oak is impeccably from being one of the more famous the nose there is florality from the Château La Vieille Cure integrated. 94 Drink 2016-2040 properties in the region. So it’s a bit of a Cabernet Franc and on the palate the Château Les Trois Croix find. 93 Drink 2016-2040 vineyard is expressed with clarity, length n Château Villars I first bought this lin Haut-Laroque and balance. 93 Drink 2016-2030 Château Mou wine in 1982. Recent vintages show n Château La Croix de Roche From Château Moulin Pey-Labrie delicious fruit, considerable freshness, an organic vineyard on the banks of the n Château Les Trois Croix The elegance from the 20% Cabernet Franc in River Isle (which joins the Dordogne at great Patrick Léon, for many years chief Château Villars GRANDS VINS the blend, and welcome polish and flair. Libourne), this is 100% Merlot from sandy winemaker at Mouton-Rothschild and still DE BORDEAUX Like all the best Fronsacs, this will age clay soil. In the mould of Pomerol, but an in-demand consultant, oversees the well. 95 Drink 2016-2030 without the price-tag. 95 Drink 2016-2035 final blends here. The 2012 shows meaty, autumnal blackberry fruit, with supple depth and charm. The 2007 in my cellar is NB: the tasters’ top wines are not necessarily their top-scoring, rather those which, on learning quite delicious now. 91 Drink 2016-2028 OUTSTANDING the wines’ identity, they feel are the most notable given their provenance, price or other factors 12 PRODUCERS 98 | Bordeaux 2016 • DECANTER