VOL. 18 – NO. 1 www.GrandCanyonHistory.org JAN/FEB/MAR 2007

In This Issue

Articles LIFE AT RIVER MILE ZERO by Traci Wyrick...... 3

2007 HISTORY SYMPOSIUM ABSTRACTS * Legacy of ...... 5 Enlarging National Park...... 6 The of Grand Canyon...... 6 Runners...... 7 Native Americans and Grand Canyon...... 8 National Park Partners...... 8 Colorado River Controversies...... 9 Environmental and Scientific History...... 10 North Rim Country ...... 10 The Personal Canyon ...... 11 Early Grand Canyon...... 12 Grand Canyon Adventures...... 12 Taking Stock of Grand Canyon...... 13

Departments EDITOR'S LETTER ...... 2 GRAND CANYON ASSOCIATION EVENTS ...... 15 EXHIBIT...... 16

Edna and Dean Tidball

* INDEX TO HISTORY SYMPOSIUM PRESENTERS' ABSTRACTS: PAGE PAGE Michael F. Anderson, Ph.D...... 6 Jeff Ingram...... 6 John S. Azar ...... 13 Leigh J. Kuwanwisiwa ...... 8 Jan Balsom...... 6 Don Lago ...... 9 Brynn Bender...... 6 Harvey Leake ...... 12 Erik Berg ...... 7 Betty Leavengood...... 8 Todd Berger...... 9 Mona McCroskey...... 9 Fred Blackburn...... 10 Douglas Miller...... 11 Diane Boyer ...... 13 Dave Mortenson...... 11 Dick Brown...... 12 Tom Myers...... 9 Mathieu Brown...... 12 Richard D. Quartaroli...... 5 Brad Dimock ...... 7, 9 Al Richmond ...... 8 Marietta Eaton...... 10 Elisabeth Ruffner...... 11 T. J. Ferguson...... 8 Paul Schnur...... 11 Richard F. Fleck...... 10 Douglas W. Schwartz, Ph.D...... 13 Kirstin Heins...... 6 Gaylord Staveley ...... 7 Stephen Hirst ...... 6 Larry Stevens ...... 10 Alfred E. Holland Jr...... 13 Marcia L. Thomas...... 5 Amy Horn...... 10 Todd Weber...... 5 Ian Hough ...... 8 David L. Wegner...... 5 J. Donald Hughes ...... 10 Michael Yeatts...... 8 Peter Huntoon...... 12

1 Editor's Letter The Ol' Pioneer The Quarterly Magazine of the Grand Canyon Historical Society

Here is a little background on the history (as it relates to me) of VOL. 18 – NO. 1 the work of the editor of the GCHS's publications. After reading this, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007 please consider volunteering to help the Society continue with preserving history through these publications. EDITOR: Diane Cassidy

In 2000, I volunteered to take over the duties of editor of the Submit photos, stories, and comments to the editor of The Ol' Pioneer at: monthly newsletter, The Bulletin, from Tom Carmony who did a [email protected]. great job. I'm not sure who worked on it previously, but I can guess that Bill and Sybil Suran might have had something to do with it. In October 2002, the GCHS Board approved the creation of the The Historical Society was established in July 1984 as a non-profit corporation to Society's own web pages at GrandCanyonHistory.org, which were develop and promote appreciation, previously hosted and managed by member Bob Ribokas in understanding and education of the Massachusetts at Kaibab.org. Bob's web pages were created in 1994 earlier history of the inhabitants and important events of the Grand Canyon and continue to be a great resource for Grand Canyon information and surrounding area. and are known as the "Grand Canyon Explorer". I volunteered to create the Society's web pages, which have drawn many new The Ol' Pioneer is published quarterly members and today are hosting the information on the 2007 Grand by the GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY who also publishes THE Canyon History Symposium. BULLETIN, a monthly newspaper. Both In 2004, I was asked to assume the duties of editor of the publications are a benefit of member- ship. Membership in the Society is open quarterly magazine, The Ol'Pioneer¸ from Bill Suran who is a long- to any person interested in the historical, standing member of the Society and performed many other duties educational, and charitable purposes of the Society. Membership is on an annual along with Sybil. basis using the standard calendar; and The work involved in preparing the publications only takes a few dues of $20 are payable on the 1st of January each year. Dues should be hours a month of sitting in front of the computer, but my new job mailed to PO Box 345, Flagstaff AZ since moving to Prescott in 2002 also involves sitting in front of a 86002. computer all day. When you add the work I do for our book business, the results are too many hours sitting in front of the computer and, The Ol' Pioneer magazine is copyrighted thus, secretary's knee and poor eyesight. by the Grand Canyon Historical Society, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this Since my passion for the Canyon is more for hiking it, looking publication may be reproduced or used for its wildlife and sleeping within its walls than for writing about it, in any form without permission of the publisher. I need to cut back on the computer work. I can't quit my paying job or the work for the book business, so I asked the Board in September to find a new editor. I'm hoping that a replacement can be found GCHS Officers/Board of Directors quickly, because it is my desire that this will be the last issue of these Mike Anderson, Acting President; vacant, Vice President and Outings publications with my name as editor. Coordinator Susan Billingsley, Treasurer It really is fun work to be the first to read the letters to the editors Todd Berger, Secretary George Billingsley, Chairperson of and articles submitted by members. Please review the Pioneer Award VOLUNTEERS WANTED article in the January issue of The Dan Cassidy, Membership Committee Chairman Bulletin and consider being a part of history by putting your name Keith Green next to "editor" in the monthly newsletter, The Bulletin, and in the Jim Ohlman Beverly Loomis quarterly magazine, The Ol'Pioneer. Amanda Zeman

Diane Cassidy Web site: www.GrandCanyonHistory.org

2 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007

Life At River Mile Zero by Traci Wyrick – Killeen TX . On a clear day, Grand Canyon's The mid-1800s saw the Navajo first-time tourists can look Indians settling around Lee's Ferry, across from both rims and see the later followed by the Hopi tribe in canyon's great width. As the chasm northeastern . Edna, (whose excites their interest, they invariably daughters' concur "never knew a ponder the canyon's length; and stranger") had many good friendships where this compelling natural wonder with the Indians. In 1952, her twin begins and ends. If Dean and Edna teenagers were the only white Tidball were alive today, they would members of the then famous Hopi provide a fast answer to where the Indian marching band. Grand Canyon begins. At one time, it John Wesley Powell's boating was right in their own backyard. party camped near the Paria River's For seven years,(1954-1961), mouth on its 1869 river odyssey. Dean, a hydrograher employed with Unaware they were in Grand Canyon, the U.S. Geological Survey, worked (they believed they were at the and lived at the remote, historical Crossing of the Fathers, which was settlement named Lee's Ferry--the also an old Ute Indian crossing) official start of the Grand Canyon. Powell named the canyon "Marble". Mile zero on the Colorado River Edna and Dean in front of their house An interesting aside for the Tidballs begins there, and continues west for at Lee's Ferry. was that Powell's four boats were 277 miles to the Canyon's western called "Whitehalls"--although of no end, the Grand Wash Cliffs. Edna worked at several Indian trading connection to the family's Montana Beginning at Lee's Ferry, the colossal posts, including the famous Hubbell hometown. Grand Canyon literally rises out of Trading Post in Ganado. In 1952, In 1872, Lee's Ferry's namesake, the river, as one travels downstream. Dean was hired by the USGS, for Mormon pioneer John D. Lee arrived Located approximately 110 miles what would become a fulfilling and and became the first white settler and north of Flagstaff, near the state successful career. operator of the famous ferry (which line, Lee's Ferry was the Tidball's Living at Lee's Ferry placed the has a history all its own). The ferry second Grand Canyon home. They Tidballs among an intricate and vast provided the only crossing on the had previously lived 88 miles succession of peoples who utilized Colorado River for 850 miles--a downstream near the Bright Angel and/or inhabited the far-off, rugged distance from Needles, California to gauging station, where Dean began gorge. The oldest known humans Moab, Utah. The ferry operated until his first assignment with the USGS. were the ancient puebloans, the 1928 when the Navajo Bridge was A tall, lean, kindly man, Dean Anasazi. Today, their ruins remain in completed four miles downstream, was born and raised in Whitehall, the cliffs above the Paria River's making the ferry obsolete. Montana--just south of Helena-- mouth, just west of Lee's Ferry. This Nearing the 20th-century, where he owned and operated a ancient culture mysteriously vanished prospectors flooded the gorge during creamery. There, he met and later about 1300 A.D. In the centuries the massive gold rush. One miner, married the just-over 5-foot, brown- following, Indians repeatedly Charles Spencer, added improve- eyed brunette, Edna Bolen, in 1929. migrated through the cliff-break at ments to the existing Mormon Originally from Minot, North Dakota, Lee's Ferry. structures and erected several others. Edna was a gifted and dedicated In 1776, Spanish priests returning In 1910, he developed a trail on the school teacher with a vibrant to Santa Fe, came upon Lee's Ferry north side of the river up to the top of personality. In 1931, the couple had a from the northwest. Their efforts to the Echo Cliffs. Dean, Edna and their daughter, Dawn, and five year's later cross the wild Colorado River were visiting daughters would periodically they had identical twin girls named Jo fruitless. They eventually made their climb it and absorb the magnificent and Gay. During the summer of 1950, crossing 30 miles upstream at their panoramic view. The stunning red the Tidballs took a vacation to now namesake "Crossing of the Echo Cliffs sprawled south towards Arizona and fell in love with the Fathers", which today lies beneath the Painted Desert, while the brilliant state. In 1951, Dean sold his Lake Powell. Vermilion Cliff escarpment spanned creamery and moved the family to ...continued on page 4 northwestern Arizona, where he and

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007 3 Life At River Mile Zero ...continued from page 3

was just as extreme, yet the low, somewhat warmer elevation at the river, prevented snowfall. From down below, the Tidballs would admire the white-powder caked atop the cliffs. Non-potable water for household use flowed from a storage tank located on high ground. The tank's gauge marked when the water-level was low. A low tank meant Dean would have to hike to the well-house and fire-up another gasoline engine to pump the well-water to the tank. Drinking water came from a spring located upriver. Dean would load a Dean climbing up the recorder-well at Lee's Ferry. water barrel into his International Harvester panel truck and haul it to westerly towards Jacob Lake. Navajo When the Tidballs arrived in '50s, the spring. Once home, he had to Mountain and Tower Butte stood life in and around Lee's Ferry was hustle the loaded barrel off the truck high to the north while the San quite different from that of today. so Edna could utilize it. Hot water Francisco Peaks beamed on the Lake Powell did not exist, nor did the was attained from propane-fired southern horizon. town of Page, until late in that heaters. Propane, gas and heating oil By the early teens, surveyors decade. There were no paved roads also had to be hauled in from were arriving--map technicians, into the bewildering gorge. The Flagstaff. Lee's Ferry later acquired hydrologists and geologists--all Tidballs drove on a narrow, cow- electricity in 1968. converging to delineate canyon track road which, after a storm, was A strong, resilient and seemingly topographies and distances for often washed into gullies; completely tireless man, Dean's work was determining potential dam sites. In isolating them until county road extensive. Along with keeping the 1921, Lee's Ferry was deemed a key crews arrived with a bulldozer and infrastructure running, he took daily location due to its unique accessi- road-grader. Once arriving at the readings from gauges on both rivers. bility and thus acquired its first Paria River, the couple had to either Via the cable cars he propelled by manned gauging station. In 1922 the wade it or utilize the hand-driven hand, he also collected water samples Colorado River Compact was created, USGS cable car, to get to their home at predetermined stations. Dean and Lee's Ferry became the dividing site. would drop a fish-shaped instrument point for water distribution between Lee's Ferry had no power lines. containing a pint-size milk bottle into the upper and lower Colorado River Electricity was provided from an old the water and measure the water's Basin states. The concrete recorder- Kohler plant. Dean would hike out to depth first; then he would capture well on the south bank measures the the light-plant shed (which was far water samples from various depths. river's velocity. The resident away, due to its noise level) and During high-water, his instrument hydrograher's work was critical, for hand-crank the machine for was weighted to several hundred the information gathered determined electricity. The Kohler ran on pounds so it would sink in the fast, if the water commitment was being gasoline which Dean hauled in from turbulent water. His cable car had met. Flagstaff. Consequently, he and Edna winches with variable gear ratios, With the famous ferry gone, the avoided using it that often. The labor enabling him to handle the heavy 1930s and '40s were fairly quiet. it took to heat their large house device. Lonely Dell Ranch (just west of the played a substantial part in their Back at his lab, Dean would Paria River, where John D. Lee had moving into a smaller, two-room analyze the samples by baking them lived) remained in operation by house. Neither home had air- into mud pies. This process revealed ensuing owners. Small influxes of conditioning or a swamp cooler. the silt percentages from each site and sportsmen took to the Colorado Summertime was unforgivably hot. depth that he tested. Interestingly, the River. Boatman Norman Nevills was The surrounding red rock absorbed Paria waters often contained more silt taking the first paying customers the sun's heat like a griddle, not than the Colorado's. Dean was so down the renowned river. relenting until the fall. Wintertime ...continued on page 14

4 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007

2007 History Symposium

Below are abstracts submitted to present to the 2nd Grand Canyon History Symposium on January 25-28, 2007. If you want to know more about any of these topics and you are unable to attend the 2007 Grand Canyon History Symposium, watch for the monograph on these presentations which will be published by the Grand Canyon Association. For more information on the presenters and registering for the 2007 Grand Canyon History Symposium, visit our web pages at www.GrandCanyonHistory.org. [Note: The 1st Grand Canyon History Symposium held in 2002 was published by the Grand Canyon Association in 2005 and is available at the Park book stores and on the web at www.GrandCanyon.org.]

LEGACY OF JOHN WESLEY John Wesley Powell's Powell's belief was that a sustainable POWELL Cartography of the Colorado River relationship could be developed John Wesley Powell and the System by Richard D. Quartaroli: between Western expansion and the Popular Press by Marcia L. Thomas: Beginning in the late 1860s, John watershed. Instead of Major Powell's When John Wesley Powell began his Wesley Powell led exploring dream of a sustainable West, a voyage down the Colorado River in expeditions into the "Great Unknown" plumbing system dependent on May 1869, he knew that capturing of the American west, mapping the last inaccurate water forecasts, dams, and blank spots of the continental United economically inappropriate water public attention was critical in his bid States. His successful completion of the distribution systems today define the to acquire public funding for a survey first intentional trip on the Green and Western landscape. As populations of the unmapped Colorado River Colorado Rivers, along their greater continue to grow, the constraints of Plateau. Major Powell and several course and through the Grand Canyon, limited water will lead to increasing members of his ten-man party main- continued with both his successful conflicts between the new and the old tained frequent correspondence with mapping of the and a West. John Wesley Powell's dream of a editors of the Chicago Tribune, Rocky career in the scientific and government society living within its means has been Mountain News, and other prominent environs of Washington, D.C. Powell shattered. Today, besides the traditional newspapers. The sensational but false carried the latest available maps of the agricultural water users, cities, boaters, news of his supposed drowning ce- region, both overland and along the and fishermen, conservationists and mented public interest in Powell's great rivers, and accurately corrected and Indian tribes are fighting over a adventure. By the time the Major updated those rivers' course. The story diminishing supply of water. What emerged from the Grand Canyon in of discovering his resources and would the West look like if Congress August, he had achieved the status of methods for doing so is a complete and and the President had followed John national hero. America's fascination interesting story in itself. His plans for Wesley Powell's recommendations? with the dramatic landscape and com- mapping the entire nation and the west Would it be any better off? This on a grand scale are still being presentation will address the mercial promise of its western terri- continued today. But Powell also atmosphere that existed in Washington tories meshed perfectly with Powell's thought that the land "beyond the and the country in the late 1800s and ambition to build a strong and promi- hundredth meridian" did not have explore the resulting history of Western nent role for government science. His adequate resources needed to develop water development and conflict. An savvy employment of the flourishing the land as in the east. His ideas for alternative scenario based on the popular media and his ability to culti- larger land allotments and irrigation Powell recommendations will be vate political allies helped him secure districts on a smaller, regional scale articulated and discussed as to whether simultaneous directorships of the would have dramatically altered Powell's dream has merit in today's Bureau of (American) Ethnology in reclamation in the west. If Powell's world and perhaps offers a roadmap for 1879 and the U.S. Geological Survey in cartography of the "arid lands" had the future. 1881. Powell held the BAE post until followed his irrigation concepts, what Selected Prose of John Wesley his death in 1902, but resigned from the might the maps of the river drainages Powell by Todd Weber as John USGS in 1894 after unsuccessfully and irrigation districts looked like? Wesley Powell: John Wesley Powell: pitting himself against powerful politi- Would that visual representation of "Soldier, Explorer, Scientist"; "Pioneer cal and economic interests pushing for place have better influenced the Statesman of Federal Science"; rapid settlement on public lands in the politicians and populace and led to Director, U.S. Geological Survey, more efficient use of our seemingly 1881-1894; Director, U. S. Bureau of arid West. Clashes with Congress, his vast, but limited, western resources? (American) Ethnology, 1879-1902. alignment with paleontologist Othniel John Wesley Powell: A Dream Powell: Since my last writings and Marsh in a very public battle with Unrealized for the Colorado River by public appearances, many words have Edward Cope, and his declaration David L. Wegner: A great deal has been penned, many works published, before the International Irrigation been written about John Wesley and several biographies made available, Congress in Los Angeles that there was Powell's explorations of the West and among them Lincoln, Darrah, Stegner, "not enough water to irrigate all this the Colorado River. Most writings Terrell, and Worster (see: Marcia arid region" played out unfavorably in explore his adventures and resultant Thomas, John Wesley Powell: An the press. His vision that science would activities in Washington, D.C. Powell Annotated Bibliography; and Earle E. inform a progressive new land policy had a vision and a dream for the West, Spamer, Bibliography of the Grand for western settlement never stood a a vision that he based on the concept of Canyon and Lower Colorado River). chance with the people of an optimistic developing a Western agricultural Though thousands of words have nation ready and eager to occupy the society that had balance between appeared on the pages and innumerable whole of its vast continent. available water and suitable land. ...continued on page 6

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007 5 2007 History Symposium ...continued from page 5 thoughts have crossed the minds, I have A Participant's Look at the capitalist world economy over been particularly silent in response. I 1972-75 Legislative History, Its traditional life ways, ostensibly take this opportunity to join the Foundations and Aftermath by Jeff expecting receiving nations to mimic discussion at the 2007 Grand Canyon Ingram: Ingram, one of the the affluence of economic core History Symposium to reiterate my lobbyists working to enlarge the nations. Contrary to expectations, views of western reclamation and arid GCNP, will first sketch the traditional survival strategies in times lands, and the implication of science in preliminary maneuvers to stake out of natural disaster often break down their implementation. positions & goals for changing the under new economic arrangements, Park/Monument boundaries. This will leaving chronically underdeveloped ENLARGING GRAND CANYON include actors such as the NPS, Sen. countries socially as well as NATIONAL PARK Goldwater & Case, Rep. Saylor, the economically impoverished and ever Tracing the Management Sierra Club, & the Havasupai in the more dependent on benefactor nations Footprint in Grand Canyon National years 1966-72. for disaster recovery. Park's Backcountry by Kirstin Heins: The main presentation will focus Although American Indian Although the National Park Service on the effort to add significant areas reservations are not often viewed as has had a hand in developing and to the Park from Nov 1972 through "Third World nations," they have managing the park's backcountry areas the Enlargement Act's signing in Jan experienced a similar history of the since the park's creation, initial 1975. This will be done through a modern world economy and attendant development was often driven by non- combination of recorded personal life ways superimposed by the U.S. governmental commercial and resource experiences and other, Government on traditional societies interests. Several different recreation documentary & secondary, sources. contained therein. This essay phases followed initial development in The events covered will be the considers socio-economic impacts of the early part of the 20th century, but preliminary Goldwater meetings to globalization (world capitalism) on broad, formal, visitor management- gain a unified view, the Goldwater one such tribe, the Havasupais of based backcountry planning efforts bill, reaction to that bill & Senate northeastern Arizona, within the were not undertaken until 1974, when hearings, Senate fight over deleting illustrative lens of devastating floods the National Park Service completed its lands then in GCN Monument, the at their village of Supai. Havasupais first backcountry management plan, Udall initiative to make significant during the past 100 years have not corralling the increasing recreational additions of north side lands, its only endured typical results of federal use occurring primarily on the early success in the House Parks pressure on American Indians to join trails. The 1975 Grand Canyon subcommittee, a summary of the the market economy despite severely Enlargement Act dramatically changed successful Havasupai effort to enlarge truncated land resource bases and park boundaries and was a significant their reservation, committee and floor altered life ways, but have also faced factor in the need for a new action in the House, the conference the certainty of devastating floods Backcountry Management Plan. A committee and Presidential approval. through the heart of their canyon- 1983 plan laid the ground work for the An analysis will summarize how bottom reservation. The combination present plan, completed in 1988, as the Act's provisions have, or have of imposed economy, restricted land well as today's zone-based not, been carried out in the past 30 base, and certain floods guarantees management system which has years. periodic disaster and endemic remained remarkably stable over the The presentation will conclude poverty. last 25 years. Concurrently, the park's with a survey of more recent & A Canyon Homeland Becomes management challenges and resource potential boundary changes. a Park by Stephen Hirst: For more issues have remained interestingly than 800 years the Havasupai people similar. Specific management actions THE HAVASUPAI OF GRAND lived along the south rim of the initiated during this planning era CANYON Grand Canyon. In 1893 President include designated campsites, use area Natural Disasters within Harrison set aside much of their range boundaries, use limits, and trail and Transitional Societies: The as the Grand Canon Forest Preserve. signage standards. This project Havasupai Indians at Supai, The designation had little meaning to chronicles the advent and creation of Arizona by Michael F. Anderson, Havasupai people who continued some of Grand Canyon's more Ph.D.: Researchers of natural their traditional winter hunting and significant backcountry regulations and hazards and disasters have been gathering and summer agriculture management strategies, with particular chastised for their attention to events there. emphasis on the post- National within developed nations. Their In 1908 the government re- Environmental Policy Act era of critics identify a need to study the designated the forest preserve as the National Park Service planning. It also effects of natural disasters on Third Grand Canyon National Monument will help provide a setting for the World nations whose societies have and Coconino National Forest and been dramatically altered by intrusive began efforts to interdict further forthcoming backcountry planning policies of the First World. Nations Havasupai use and occupation of the effort. such as the , through area. It marked one of the few From Courtyard to Conserva- ambiguous desires to improve the occasions where establishing federal tion: The Grand Canyon Historic quality of life in underdeveloped park land directly impinged upon Boat Conservation Project by Jan countries as well as exploit their ongoing Native American life Balsom and Brynn Bender: Abstract natural resources and/or low cost patterns in this way. not on file with editor at this time. labor, have superimposed the ...continued on page 7

6 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007

2007 History Symposium ...continued from page 6

While several Havasupai families the energy of a boatman. Probably Holmstrom on the river during his first continued farming Indian Garden even borrowing from years of observing solo run of the canyon. after formal establishment of Grand how the bodies of waterfowl were Based on original research from Canyon National Park in 1919, their shaped, and how they maneuvered in diaries, newspaper accounts, and last presence was seemingly ended turbulent water, he paired his boat scientific reports, the presentation will when the National Park Service design with the idea of drifting down use the expedition members own acquired the holdings of Ralph the river stern-first to be able to see and words, writings, and photographs to Cameron in 1928 and drove the avoid danger. describe the often dangerous and Havasupai out of the canyon. We who run the river today are the sometime humorous events of their six- There is, however, another, lesser- beneficiaries of Galloway's design and week adventure on the river including known side of this story, for the fate of technique. They were passed on to Dodge's near-accident at Upset Rapid, the Havasupai and Grand Canyon Julius Stone in 1909, the Kolb brothers Stark's poem based on the trip, and the National Park continued an in 1911, the U.S.G.S. river survey ongoing scientific debates among the entwinement that continues even today. parties of 1921, 1922 and 1923, Buzz geologists. In addition to the scientific The Havasupai presence within the Holmstrom in 1937 and at about the and historic aspects of the trip, the park has persisted and brought same time to Normal Nevills, who presentation will describe the personal numerous contributions to the liked to call stern-first drifting "facing experiences of the expedition members development of the park. your danger." and the interactions between the Most of the trails off the South As one who inherited, learned, academic geologists and the more Rim now used by the public follow used, and taught the "Galloway way" rough and tumble boatmen which--like trails originally laid down by for quite a few years, Staveley became the river--was sometimes smooth, Havasupais. A crew of 42 Havasupais interested in knowing more about sometimes rough, but never boring. provided the labor for laying the cross- Galloway than the sentence used by * This presentation is based on a canyon water line and served as the guides (flesh and blood guides, and paper presented by the author at the crew for constructing the Grand printed guides) that: "Nathaniel T. 2006 Arizona History Convention, Canyon Village sewer line. Emory Galloway developed (the) stern-first which won the Donald Bufkin Award Kolb's projectionist for many years was technique for running Grand Canyon for best paper related to geography a Havasupai. Havasupai trackers have rapids in 1897." Staveley's presentation and/or territorial period Arizona. served the Park Service on search-and- will show some of his findings and The Mysterious Hum Woolley by rescue missions and as park rangers. conclusions about the life and times of Brad Dimock: In 1951 researcher 'Than Galloway. P. T. Reilly met a man named Arthur COLORADO RIVER RUNNERS Rock Hounds and River Rats: Sanger, who told him of his river trip 'Than, the Man--The Life and The 1937 Carnegie-CalTech through Grand Canyon in 1903. Until Times of Nathaniel T. Galloway by Colorado River Expedition by Erik then, Sanger's voyage had gone un- Gaylord Staveley: At the time Major Berg: The subject of the presentation recorded. Reilly researched extensively John Wesley Powell launched his 1869 is the 1937 river trip through the Grand and began to piece together the expedi- expedition from Green river Wyoming, Canyon conducted by CalTech tion, headed by a 60-year old gentle- a 15 year old boy named Nataniel geologists Ian Campbell and John man named Elias Benjamin "Hum" Galloway had just begun to hunt and Maxson under the direction and Woolley. Another historian, the trap the valleys and streams of the funding of John C. Merriam of the renowned Otis "Dock" Marston joined Uinta Mountains. By 1885, Nathaniel – Carnegie Institution. The purpose of the the search, amassing large files on each called 'Than by his family and friends – trip was to conduct the first of the three trip participants. Yet other had married and moved down to the comprehensive study of the ancient than an article in a 1962 Desert river where he was soon earning a rocks of the inner gorge as part of the Magazine, and ten short paragraphs in reputation as the man with a better way Carnegie Institution's larger geologic David Lavender's 1985 River Runners of running fast water. Early on, he program in the park. The group of Grand Canyon, Hum Woolley's tackled the rapids-filled gorges of Red included two other geologists (Robert exploits remain obscure and poorly Canyon, Lodore, and Split Mountain. Sharp and Jack Stark) and three understood. For this presentation, In the mid-1890s, he began running boatmen including noted Grand Dimock proposes to expand on a short father down river and in 1896 ran the Canyon river runner Frank Dodge. talk he gave to Grand Canyon River Green and Colorado all the way Aside from the group's scientific guides in Spring 2006, synthesizing through Grand Canyon to Needles, contributions, the trip is historically much more material than he had at that California, an expedition that important because it represented the time, adding more detail on the trip established him, although he didn't end of era. They were the last group to participants, and including more realize it until a dozen years later. run the river before the famous context and analysis of their voyage. Galloway built his own boats, Separation and Lava Cliff rapids were Dimock would also like to explore the usually on the bank of the river, often subdued by the rising Lake Mead and possible influences that led to their trip, leaving one at the end of a run, and they were one of the last to make the as well as any influence—or lack building a new one for the next run. In trip before Norman Nevills initiated the thereof-they may have had on posterity. doing so, he developed an expedition era of regular tourist trips. In addition, In short, he plans to do the "Complete boat that was light, stable, and used the the trip is noteworthy for meeting Buzz Hum Woolley." power of the river rather than sapping ...continued on page 8

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007 7 2007 History Symposium ...continued from page 7

NATIVE AMERICANS AND GRAND structures built and used by Native NATIONAL PARK PARTNERS CANYON Americans. This project provided a American Legion John Ivens Native American Women at the means for field testing new methods Post No. 42 -- Eighty-Four Years of Grand Canyon by Betty Leavengood: and materials for documenting and Service to Community by Al Leavngood will talk about Native treating this type of fragile and highly Richmond: John Ivens, a resident of American women associated with the threatened cultural resource. This Grand Canyon, enlisted for service in Grand Canyon that she included in her project also gathered information useful World War I. Gassed in the Argonne book, Grand Canyon Women. The for understanding the origins and Offensive in 1918, he died and was women are: , a Hopi potter, timing of Navajo and Havasupai buried in France, later to be reburied in who was the first person to live and settlement in the Grand Canyon region, Arlington National Cemetery in work at Hopi House; Geraldine the development of Navajo and Washington DC. Williamson of the Tribe who Havasupai-National Park Service Not forgotten, Private Ivens lives lived and farmed in the Grand Canyon political relationships, cultural patterns on in the community spirit of the at Peach Springs Canyon and later in historic period Navajo and American Legion Post named in his worked as a Harvey Girl; Loretta Havasupai architecture, and the honor. Founded in 1923 by illustrious Jackson, also a member of the Hualapai development of specific methods for Grand Canyon Village denizens such a Tribe, who is the Tribal Historic treating wooden structures to prevent Emery Kolb and Art Metzger, Post 42 Preservation Officer and works to destruction from forest fires. has endured and created an enviable identify and protect sacred sites in the Öngtupqa: The Enduring legacy of community service thanks to Grand Canyon; Phyllis Yoyetewa Association of the Hopi People and a membership of veterans that has Kachinhongva, a Hopi/Apache woman the Grand Canyon by Leigh J. includeed citizens from all walks of who grew up with her grandparents at Kuwanwisiwa, T. J. Ferguson and life. During their time in service, these the Grand Canyon and is now an Michael Yeatts: The Hopi people know veterans learned to organize and work interpretative ranger on the South Rim the Grand Canyon as Öngtupqa (Salt together for a common goal. When of the Grand Canyon; Jean Mann, an Canyon). Öngtupqa is a sacred place – they returned to the Canyon, they put outstanding Navajo weaver, who lived home to ancestors who resided there in these skills to work building communi- at the Grand Canyon and demonstrated the ancient past, locus of shrines still ty facilities usually with funds from weaving at the Visitor's Center for 10 revered in the Hopi religion, destination their own pockets. Such buildings as years; a Havasupai women, Ethel Jack, of an important salt pilgrimage, and the the Community Building, Grand who led the fight for her tribe to regain abode for Hopi people after death. The Canyon School, Shrine of the ages, and their tribal lands on the South Rim; and cultural importance of Öngtupqa is the sports fields all bear the stamp of Ila Bulletts who monitors 20 sacred supplemented with a long history of their industry, drive and love of com- sites in the Grand Canyon in her Hopis working in the park as craftsmen munity. They have worked together position as Acting Cultural Resource in the Hopi House, artists in the Desert with the CCC "boys" and the Park Program Director of the Kaibab Paiute View Watch Tower, and workers in the Service to improve this great national Tribe. service industry. For the last fifteen park. Architectural documentation years the Hopi Cultural Preservation Through wise investments, Post 42 and preservation of historic period Office has conducted a series of is able to fund and promote scholar- (A.D. 1800-1950) Native American research projects in the Grand Canyon ship, pride of country, patriotism, and wooden pole structures by Ian to identify Hopi traditional cultural community improvement. Their work Hough: In 2006, Grand Canyon properties, document ethnobotanical continues to this day in many forms National Park conducted an and ethnozoological resources, and such as scholarships for Grand Canyon architectural documentation and monitor the condition of Pisisvayu, the school children, and working with the preservation project with 10 historic Colorado River. Much of this work, Park Service to renovate the Pioneer period (A.D. 1800-1950) conical- supported by the Bureau of Cemetery gate originally built by shaped, wooden pole structures. These Reclamation, Grand Canyon Research Legionnaires in 1928. structures include a combination of and Monitoring Center, and the Seldom do we think of the people Navajo and Havasupai sweat lodges, National Park Service, is related to the who formed this community many hogans and wikiups located on the role of the Hopi Tribe as a member of years before it was a national park and South Rim between Grand Canyon the Adaptive Management Work those who continue to live, work, and Village and Desert View. Although Group implemented following the raise families here. Even less frequently focused on implementing preservation completion of the Glen Canyon do we think of the veterans who have treatments to slow natural deterioration, Environmental Impact Statement in helped to make this community a home this project also provided an 1995. In this illustrated presentation, through service to their fellow resi- opportunity to address a unique we use the Hopi Tribe's research to dents. And as long as there are veterans resource from an under-studied explain the enduring cultural and who come from or to Grand Canyon archaeological time/culture period. historical importance of the Grand Village and become a part of John Currently in the southwestern United Canyon for the Hopi people. Ivens Post 42 after serving their States, the majority of ruins country, there will be a continuing preservation work is conducted on tradition of unparalleled community masonry architecture, with very little service. attention being given to wooden ...continued on page 9

8 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007

2007 History Symposium ...continued from page 8

The History of the Grand River, the North Rim, mutual resentment set up the group Canyon Association by Todd Buildings, and scenes from the dynamic that led the Howland Berger: In 1932, Grand Canyon Colorado Plateau. brothers and William Dunn to quit National Park naturalist Eddie The presentation will be a the expedition. Oramel Howland McKee formed the Grand Canyon showing of slides of a selection of the knew that the expedition never would Natural History Association (today's photographs. Details in these never- have happened if not for him, yet Grand Canyon Association), "to carry before-seen pictures are of interest to Powell showed him no respect. on the important work of permanently historians and, it is hoped, will be This presentation is based mainly recording interesting natural history enjoyed for their unusual setting and on documents found at Iowa State observations as well as the results of sheer artistry. Of the millions of University, at the McLean County scientific investigations, and of photographs taken of the Grand Historical Society in Bloomington, making these data available to the Canyon, relatively few are of mules, Illinois, and at the Western public." There were additional with the exception of those taken Manuscript Collection in the Denver reasons, but you get the idea. The commercially by the Kolb Brothers at Public Library. first GCNHA board included Emery the Bright Angel Trailhead. Why James White's 1867 Raft Kolb and Miner Tillotson, and Trip Doesn't Float (James White McKee served as the association's COLORADO RIVER through Grand Canyon) by Tom first executive secretary. Over time, CONTROVERSIES Myers: James White's possible first the association grew to become a New Documents Shed New descent of the Colorado River in bookseller and publisher, extensions Light on Origins and Grand Canyon on a log raft in 1867 is of the association's mission as defined Disintegration of Powell Expedition without question one of the Canyon's by McKee. Since 1932, GCA has by Don Lago: John Wesley Powell greatest legends. A debate as to the expanded the original mission to was noted for not giving credit to possibility of such a traverse has include supporting the study of Grand those who helped him but it seems raged for decades. Did he, in fact, Canyon human history. Over the that he owed much larger debts than traverse the entire length of Grand years, GCA has provided more than have ever been recognized. He owed Canyon two years prior to John $24 million to the national park to a large debt to the Howland family, Wesley Powell? Much of the contro- fund educational and interpretive one of whom was a prominent citizen versy has and remains centered on the needs. In my presentation, I will of Bloomington, Illinois, and who in logistics of where he actually entered discuss the formation of GCNHA and 1860 led a group of Bloomington the River, what observations he made the personalities involved, provide an men on an expedition to the Rocky en route, accuracies/consistencies of overview of the association in the Mountains, an example that Powell statements he made and possible years since 1932, and highlight the would repeat 7 years later. It seems errors/omissions, intentional or other- large role GCA has played in the that this Howland family member put wise, in their transcription. Myers is history of Grand Canyon National Powell in touch with Oramel proposing a new look at the James Park. The year 2007 marks the Howland in Colorado, Oramel White argument. His presentation association's 75th anniversary, Howland then put Powell in touch will be about the physiologic possi- making this an apt time to revisit with his employer, newspaper editor bilities of James White—or anyone— GCA's roots. William Byers, and with the circle of making such a rafting trip under such A Mule's Eye View of the men who would form the core of harsh, physically-demanding condi- Grand Canyon--The Photograph Powell's crew on the Colorado River tions. Is it even humanly possible? Collection of Trail Guide Ray expedition. Byers' diaries reveal that What are the odds? In Myers' Tankersley by Mona McCroskey: Byers was Powell's largest financial opinion, infinitesimally small. He Ray Tankersley was a trail guide at backer for 1867. A letter written by also believes history supports this. the Grand Canyon in the 1920s. It Byers reveals that he was planning to Accounts from fatal or near-fatal appears that he was there for some go down the Colorado with Powell. If outcomes by other would-be rafters in time before the Fred Harvey this had happened, it is very unlikely Grand Canyon reflect he virtual Company acquired the mule franchise that Powell would have been the impossibility of such a feat. Myers in 1927; he stayed until about 1931. expedition leader as Byers had far will present this evidence along with Tankersley's photograph more wilderness experience and a far the physiologic improbability. collection, donated to the Grand stronger bond with the crew. But James White Did Float Canyon Archives by McCroskey Buyers dropped out, leaving his Through Grand Canyon in 1867 by upon the completion of her book, friends taking orders from Powell, Brad Dimock: Dimock will present a contains more than four hundred whom they may have considered a counterpoint argument to Tom Myers' black and white images of the Grand usurper and thus resented. The main presentation supporting the likelihood Canyon, mules and mule trails, reason why Powell included these of James White making a successful construction of the 1928 Kaibab men in his crew as to get money from traverse. Bridge and trails, , Byers, but when Byers cut Powell of ...continued on page 9 Hermit Camp, Havasu, the Colorado financially, Powell was left resenting Byers' friends on the crew. This

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007 9 2007 History Symposium ...continued from page 9

ENVIRONMENTAL AND SCIENTIFIC new to science. However, many President Roosevelt declared the HISTORY invertebrate groups and the fungi Grand Canyon as a National The History and Future of remain poorly known. The vertebrate Monument by presidential Biological Inventory and Research inventory is fairly complete (Minckley proclamation in JAN, 1908. This in the Grand Canyon Region by 1973, Miller et al. 1982, Hoffmeister paper will examine the unique features Larry Stevens: Scientific inventory of 1986, Brown et al. 1987, and Brennan of Muir's essay "The Grand Canyon" the biota of the Grand Canyon region and Holycross 2006. in light of its environmental began in the late nineteenth century, Grand Canyon has initiated an importance. and intensive biological and All-Taxa Biological Inventory ecosystem studies have been (ATBI). ATBI data are of increasing NORTH RIM COUNTRY conducted since the late 1920s. importance in the region, as human- Al Wetherill on the Brink Biological information exists in the induced habitat fragmentation and (Wetherill/Prudden Trip through diaries and photographs of early environmental change isolates this Escalante Grand Stair Case 1897) Grand Canyon explorers, particularly World Heritage landscape park from by Marietta Eaton and Fred those of Edgar Mearns (1884) and the surrounding, developing terrain, Blackburn: In 1897 Al Wetherill Robert Stanton (1889-1890), and and as species are extirpated in and served as a guide and companion to T. through the regional elevation studies around the Park. At least 20 species Mitchell Prudden on a trip to the of C. Hart Merriam (1889). Early Park (mostly vertebrates) have been Arizona Strip and Southern Utah. Al naturalists, such as Eddie McKee, functionally or entirely extirpated Wetherill kept a journal of this trip began compiling biological inventory from the Park since its establishment which documents a journey that we data and reporting new taxa in the in 1919, including most of the large are reconstructing based on his decades following declaration of the carnivores. Recent inventories have documentation. This presentation Park. Although several biologists begun to fill some information gaps, follows the route of this expedition reached the Colorado River between but additional ATBI, research, and including one dramatic leg to 1889 and 1938, pre-dam Colorado conservation actions remain Toroweap. This presentation will River corridor vegetation was not outstanding, particularly for species document the route of this expedition qualitatively described until Clover that are rare, cryptic, occupy rare shared through the words of Al and Jotter (1944). Post-dam vegetation habitats, and the many lesser-known Wetherill. was described by the Museum of invertebrate taxa. Such information Stories Among the Aspen: Northern Arizona (1974-1977) and will help the Park fulfill its mandate Running Cattle on the North Rim by subsequently by Northern Arizona and provide much new scientific Amy Horn: Today's visitors don't University (1990-present). Grand information. In this talk I relate the often consider that the North Rim's Canyon's flora has been summarized history of Grand Canyon's biological history includes thousands of cattle periodically, and relatively few new studies to the newly established ATBI. grazing on summer pasture. But before species are likely to be added to the John Muir's Historic Visit to the tourists discovered the magnificent inventory. A lichen inventory of the Grand Canyon by Richard F. Fleck views from Grand Canyon's North Grand Canyon region has been and J. Donald Hughes: John Muir Rim, cowboys found the North completed. Several vegetation maps of (1836-1914), the renowned naturalist Kaibab's lush pastures. Over the past the region have been prepared; and conservationist and founder of the decade, Grand Canyon National Park however, the distribution and Sierra Club, first visited the Grand archeologists have discovered ecological function of most plant Canyon with Gifford Pinchot in 1896. numerous archeological sites from the species remain poorly synthesized. He had never seen anything quite like ranching history of Grand Canyon's The region's faunal inventory is it before and remained under its spell North Rim. With the creation of the reasonably complete for some taxa, even though he did not write about it. Grand Canyon Game Preserve and but limited for most invertebrate taxa, In 1898 he was urged by fellow Grand Canyon National Park, grazing and individual species distributions conservationists C.S. Sargent, Robert was rapidly phased out. But aspen and habitats are poorly known. Underwood Johnson and Walter Hines dendroglyphs dating to the 1890s and Relatively complete invertebrate Page to compose a descriptive essay early 1900s trace the use by early inventories (but not distribution data) on the Grand Canyon in order to Arizona Strip settlers. Fragments of exist for landsnails (Spamer and encourage the government to preserve fences show us how the Kaibab Bogan 1994) and butterflies and this natural wonder. Muir obliged his Plateau was first divided into two big skippers (Garth 1950). Recently friends in 1902 by writing a truly ranges and how, as tourists reached updated distributional inventories exist significant essay on the Canyon for the the North Rim, buffalo were proposed for aquatic Heteroptera (Stevens and influential Century Magazine. His for the Walhalla Plateau. Water was Polhemus in press), tiger beetles written piece stirred the passions of his managed through spring (Cicindelidae – Stevens and Huber readers by calling attention to the improvements and fences around 2004), and chironomid midges marvels of the Grand Canyon. Within sinkholes and "lakes". The (Sublette et al. 1998). These a few years John Muir felt compelled archeological record substantiates, invertebrate studies have revealed to write to his friend President enhances, occasionally contradicts; but many new range extensions, the Theodore Roosevelt advising him to always brings to life the written record presence of unsuspected high levels of protect the Grand Canyon from of ranching on the North Rim. endemism among some taxa, and taxa commercial exploitation. As we know, ...continued on page 11

10 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007

2007 History Symposium ...continued from page 10

Grand Canyon Winter Cowboy I will review my life as a young Grand Cañon (as it was then called), Camps of the Esplanade by Dave boy in the unusual community of the of his grandmother on a mule trip into Mortenson: They came to the Grand Canyon Village in the late the Canyon, and of his grandparents western part of the north rim side of 1940s and the 1950s. I will discuss standing near the Canyon rim. The Grand Canyon to graze their sheep, my newspaper route and the school picture of the mule trip is dated June cattle and horses. Like the prehistoric system. Also, I will describe my 29, 1909, the one of the train station peoples before them they moved in summer employment at the Fred dated July 3, 1910. Doug's mother and out of the canyons with the Harvey Laundry, gas station, Look says that Rollie was the Santa Fe seasons. They were not explorers but Out Studio, Bright Angel Lodge and agent at Ash Fork for awhile, and that they got to know their part of the as manager of the Katchina Lodge his grandmother worked there as a canyon better than anyone since the that was on the west rim. I will tell of Harvey Girl. They may have met prehistorics. They were not tourists the interesting people that I met there, and they were married shortly but they saw the Grand Canyon as including President Eisenhower, the thereafter on March 4, 1908. They none has seen it seen since. They Shah of Iran, Daggett Harvey and apparently moved to the Grand were working cowboys who spent others. Canyon after they were married, in there winters in the first half of the The Miller Family at the Grand 1908 or 1909. last century making shelters, building Canyon – A Personal History by Encounters with Grand trails and finding water while caring Douglas Miller: Miller's Canyon, 1940-2006 (...Not a for there herds. presentation will recount their family Pioneer...I came on the Train!) by This presentation by Mortenson history at the Canyon and will be Elisabeth Ruffner: After arriving in will show the camps, trails, illustrated with a number of family Arizona on the Santa Fe Chief in inscriptions, supplies and junk they photographs and other memorabilia August 1940, Ruffner was married on left behind. In exploring and hiking of their years at the Canyon. August 10 in Prescott to Lester Ward the remote western half of the Grand Doug's father, Harold Kirby "Budge" Ruffner, a native of the Canyon for forty-five years Dave has Miller, was born on November 9, town. They drove to the Canyon rediscovered the Cowboy campsites, 1912, to Lillie Jane Woodrome and where Budge had spent many hiked their trails and photographed Rollie Miller. Doug's grandfather was boyhood and young manhood much of what they left behind. Life the first station agent for the Santa Fe sojourns, and the two of them spent was tough but they made the most of Railway at the Grand Canyon. His the better part of a week in a cabin at it by building shelters and packing in grandmother was the ticket agent. His Bright Angel, rode mules, hiked trails what they could to make life better. grandparents lived in the upper story and partook of superb meals at El They liked canned milk but hated of the 2-story railway station, just Tovar. In the years following, creamed corn. They had to work long down the hill from the El Tovar Ruffner has visited many times, has hours but had long cold nights. To fill Hotel. The story of his family is that been a guest of park service time, they left their marks on the his grandmother chose the design of employees in the Village; received Supai Sandstone walls. The story of the upstairs living quarters of the the Governor's Award for Historic the hard life these Grand Canyon railway station. His brother Preservation during an annual cowboys spent wintering below the remembers his grandmother telling us meeting of the Arizona Preservation rim will be shown through the unique that she and Rollie lived in a tent for Foundation, and attended many presentation. some 6 to 9 months before the station meetings in the park buildings; stayed was finished. numerous times in the same Bright THE PERSONAL CANYON Doug's mother tells him that, just Angel cabin as her 1940 sojourn Medical Care, Chapels & before his father was born, his thanks to the information gleaned Challenges by Paul Schnur: My grandfather put his grandmother on from the architect for the renovation, discussion will include the role of the the train to Missouri, where her James Garrison (who is now Arizona Grand Canyon Hospital and the mother lived, so the baby could be Historic Preservation Officer); challenges facing medical care during born there. His father's birthplace is booked numerous visitors to various the years 1948 to 1955 when my listed as Clinton, Missouri, but mom accommodates as a travel agent; father, Dr Leo Schnur, was the says he was also regarded as having attended Arizona Town Hall as a medical director. He was one of the been born in Arizona. Doug's family delegate; attended the dedication of founders of the Shrine of the Ages maintains that his father was the first the Greenway Trail system with First Chapel Corporation and the first white child "born" at the Grand Lady Hillary Clinton; and enjoyed president of the board. He became Canyon. various other events and adventures President Emeritus when he left the For as long as he can remember, in and around the canyon. This is a Grand Canyon and became Sedona's Doug's family has told this story; his social history of selected personal first full time medical doctor. Board grandmother telling it to him when he encounters and experiences over the members of the Corporation and the was very young. He has pictures of years. challenges they faced will be his paternal grandfather sitting on a included. railroad trestle near Ask Fork, of the ...continued on page 12 newly built 2-story train station at the

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007 11 2007 History Symposium ...continued from page 11

EARLY GRAND CANYON rush that took place in 1872. At the followed with significant reroutes over The Elusive Louis Boucher by end of 1871, while reconnoitering a the decades by successive generations Dick Brown: Louis D. Boucher left route to move supplies down Kanab of Mormon ranchers, packers, very few clues about his time at the Canyon in order to possibly finish fishermen, park personnel and cave Canyon, and even less about his life their river trip the following spring, explorers, each of whom placed their before and after the Canyon. His trail members of the second Powell imprimatur on the trail and canyon through life, with teasing twists and expedition discovered flour gold in the lore. shadowy switchbacks, is as difficult to sand bars along the Colorado River at follow as his canyon trails. This quiet, the mouth of Kanab Canyon. Word GRAND CANYON ADVENTURES reclusive trail-builder and prospector went out over the just completed The 1891 Nordenskiöld came to be known as the Hermit. telegraph line between Fredonia and Expedition to the Grand Canyon by While his story remains St. George. Miners, adventurers, but Harvey Leake: In November 1891, incomplete, there are interesting mostly destitute men, numbering three young men left southwestern fragments of history that may help us upwards of several hundred converged Colorado on a daring excursion to the piece together the life and times of on Kanab Canyon, and began fighting Hopi villages and the bottom of the Boucher. There is a record of a Louis their way up and down the banks of Grand Canyon. The sponsor of the Boucher residing in Sherbrooke, the Colorado River in their quest for expedition was 23 year old Swedish Quebec in 1875. The first record of gold bearing sands. The access route scientist Gustaf Nordenskiöld who had Boucher at the Canyon dates back to they had to take down Kanab Canyon recently completed his investigations July 1891 when he was employed by was simply awful. E. O. Beamen, the of the cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde. as a trail guide. An photographer on the Powell His chief guide was Benjamin Alfred August 1892 edition of Scientific expedition, severed his ties with (Al) Wetherill, who, at 30 years old, American refers to a French-Canadian Powell at the beginning of 1872, and was already a seasoned explorer. The trail guide – "Louis de Bouchere, set off on his own exploits. One of the other participant was Roe Ethridge intelligent, obliging, and not too first things he did was to follow the who was "hardly twenty." talkative…" miners into the gold fields in order to The trio utilized Indian guides Perhaps Boucher's trail from photograph their activities. This led until they arrived at the home of Seth Sherbrooke to the Grand Canyon him and a companion in an arduous Tanner near Tuba City. Tanner led the passed through Sioux Country. A trek up the Colorado River from the party from there into the Canyon and Winchester carbine is inscribed "To mouth of Kanab Canyon to Buckskin showed them his mining operation Chief Spotted Tail from Louis Falls ( Falls), where they near the base of what is now known as Boucher" and Boucher's "Crazy climbed into Deer Canyon. There they the Tanner Trail. There, the young Horse" mining claim carried the name discovered a verdant spring-fed men explored by foot and on a small of the uncle of this famous Sioux tributary valley with a most unusual raft they built. chief. It is rumored that a trader named flat bottom. Miners followed in short From the written accounts of Louis Boucher, married to Spotted order, occupied the place, and Nordenskiöld and Wetherill, Leake Tail's daughter, smuggled guns to the discovered abandoned Indian trails will discuss the highlights of the trip Sioux. Boucher does not appear in the that led out through the more and the impressions that the Canyon census reports of 1890, 1900 or 1910. favorable terrain of what we now call made on the adventurers. The talk will Was the Hermit a fugitive, hiding Surprise Valley, and on up to the north be illustrated with photos from the from the past? rim of Tapeats Amphitheater west of expedition, some of which have never Boucher left the Canyon in 1909. Crazy Jug Point. The miners been published. His trail winds through New Mexico constructed a network of rudimentary The Summits Within: Stories of and Colorado and fades into coal- trails along this route to serve their Grand Canyon Climbing by mining country of central Utah. We needs. They blasted through Mathieu Brown: Nearly fifty years have but one last glimpse of Boucher formidable ledges where necessary, ago, Dave Ganci and Rick Tidrick in 1912 when he returns to the South making the route barely passable for a pioneered the first ascent of a remote Rim, signing the Grandview Hotel horse, but created in their wake and technical Grand Canyon Summit, register as "Louis Boucher, Mohrland, rudimentary trails down Deer and Zoroaster Temple. Their Utah." There is no further record of Tapeats canyons to their workings accomplishment evolved into what is this elusive Canyon Pioneer. He died along the river. The next visitor who now considered the classic climb of in obscurity, unmourned and left documentation was Clarence Grand Canyon and also marked the unheralded, yet no man stands more Dutton, the legendary geologic beginning of an era in which nobly in the memory of canyon explorer, who mounted a pack trip into individuals would come to interact pioneers. Deer Canyon in 1880, his only descent with and interpret the Grand Canyon The Opening of Deer Creek and to the bottom of the Grand Canyon. in new ways. While Grand Canyon the History of the Thunder River The miners were long starved out, lacked the obviously inviting stone of, Trail by Peter Huntoon: The famed their trail in ruins and marginally Yosemite or Grand Teton, its subtly Thunder River Trail off the western passable. Dutton did not find Thunder unique challenges of arduous complex side of the , which Spring, although the miners had. But approaches, loose and instable rock, winds through Tapeats Amphitheater, the route into Deer and Tapeats intriguing route owes its origin, of all things, to a gold canyons was established, to be ...continued on page 13

12 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007

2007 History Symposium ...continued from page 12 finding, and desert scenery were organized an expedition through historian's craft. This talk's analysis, unmatched. These qualities drew the Grand Canyon to investigate dam based on their writings, their several, interest of a small group of climbers sites and to tie-together a survey of sometimes scattered collections, and that pushed climbing in Grand the longitudinal profile of the on limited secondary sources, traces Canyon to new cultural and physical Colorado River from the Gulf of the personal histories of James White, boundaries. Those seeking summits California to Colorado and Wyoming. John Wesley Powell, Robert Brewster in Grand Canyon experienced the The 1923 USGS expedition may well Stanton, Frederick Samuel landscape on new terms, seeing the have been the last true expedition Dellenbaugh, Julius Frederick Stone, Canyon as a series of towers amongst through Grand Canyon, and it Clyde Eddy, Otis "Dock" Marston, the abyss. Their pursuits led to the garnered national attention in the and Plez Talmadge Reilly, discovery of new access points, print and transmitted media, emphasizing their lasting influences, challenging routes in the Canyon's particularly in the evolving medium for good and ill, on our understanding tributaries and, of course, countless of radio. Crew members bickered of river running history. stories and tales. among themselves; at one point, head Archaeology of the GC: A Saving the Army Fliers. The boatman Emery Kolb threatened to Personal Look Back by Douglas W. Story of the 1944 Parachutists by quit the expedition, only to be Schwartz, Ph.D.: After being John S. Azar: In June of 1944, an retained by trip leader Claude introduced to Grand Canyon region Army Air Corps B-24 Bomber lifted Birdseye. Lewis Freeman, along as a archaeology in 1949, Schwartz off from the runway at the Army Air publicist, was severely criticized for dedicated some nine field sessions Strip near Tonopah, . The 5- his laziness and deficient boatman over 20 years to surveys in Shinumo, man flight crew was on a training skills, but he redeemed himself with Nankoweap, down the river from mission, scheduled to land at a his extensive positive writings. Nankoweap to Unkar Delta, and southern Arizona airbase. Just after Erstwhile fifth boatman Frank Dodge, excavations on the South Rim, on midnight above Prescott, Arizona, whose canvas boat sank in Marble Unkar Delta, at the Bright Angel one of the engines stalled. After an Canyon, became the trip hero, Delta and on the Walhalla Plateau. attempt at reviving the engine, the rescuing a dazed Kolb after a flip. After publishing the details results of pilot ordered 3 members of the crew Hydraulic engineer Eugene C. La Rue this work, Schwartz published a to bail out. At an elevation of 12,000 vocally opposed the Boulder Canyon popular synthesis in 1989 entitled On feet above sea level, the flight damsite, to the extent of public the Edge of Splendor: Exploring engineer, navigator, and bombardier advocacy of his alternative plan of a Grand Canyon's Human Past. dropped into the moonless night. high dam upstream from Lee's Ferry. Schwartz will present a review of his With high winds blowing them north, Ultimately, La Rue was forced to field and update his conclusions they were carried into a landing resign from the U.S. Geological regarding the sequence and nature of within Grand Canyon National Park. Survey, prompting accusations that Grand Canyon prehistory. He also This presentation would chronicle the the Department of Interior "muzzled" has a 30-minute film produced with efforts made to rescue these men. one of its scientists. the National Geographic Society A Conclave of Curmudgeons: covering his major excavations that is TAKING STOCK OF GRAND Authorities, Collectors, and available for viewing. CANYON Historians of the Colorado River, In Search of Dam Sites: The 1869-1969 by Alfred E. Holland, Jr.: U.S. Geological Survey in Grand Holland's presentation is a historical Canyon, 1923 by Diane Boyer: In biographical and biographical talk the 1920s, calls for regulation of the titled "A Conclave of Curmudgeons: Colorado River were strident, coming Authorities, Collectors, and from diverse interests who wanted Historians of the Colorado River, dependable irrigation supplies or 1869-1969." It examines the cheap hydroelectric power. The Fall- accomplishments, personalities, and Davis report of 1922, submitted to influences on the history of the Congress, called for construction of a Colorado River's exploration and single high dam in Boulder Canyon, exploitation by historical figures but some interested parties wanted a ranging from Tí-yo, the Hopi lad who more comprehensive plan for water descended the river to the sea and development of the Colorado River returned with the Snake Dance to basin. Funded by Southern California bring rain to his people's corn Edison and Utah Power and Light, patches, to "PT" Reilly, the last of the the U.S. Geological Survey first generation of boatmen turned undertook studies of dam sites along historians. Not withstanding Lewis R. the bedrock-canyon reaches of the Freeman's sage advice, "There is only Green, San Juan, and Colorado one worse thing that a river-rat can do Rivers. The first surveys, in 1921 and than turn turtle, and that is to turn 1922, were in the Upper Basin; in historian," Clio's siren song has lured 1923, the U.S. Geological Survey many river runners to practice the

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007 13 Life At River Mile Zero ...continued from page 4

attuned to both rivers' sounds, he 1956--when boating was prohibited could often tell what the water levels through the Glen Canyon dam site--a were--just by listening. At a specific number of outdoorsmen like Art time he would cock his head and Green, ran the Colorado River announce that high water had just upstream. Edna was fortunate to join peaked on the Colorado. The one expedition which took her following day, in his 14-foot upriver through Glen Canyon. She aluminum outboard boat, he would and her party then hiked the several cross the river and confirm from the miles from the river to view Rainbow gauging station that the river had Bridge. At that time, few white indeed topped at the time his ears had people had ever seen the monumental indicated. rock arch. Edna felt privileged to be The Tidballs had to buy their included among those who had done groceries in Flagstaff and retrieve so. their mail by driving to Marble Dean was part of a long line of Canyon. They had no television or hydrograhers--the last one leaving telephone--the nearest phones were at Lee's Ferry in 1976, when satellite Cameron and Jacob Lake. telemetry took over most of the Communication with the USGS was gauging responsibilities. The Glen via a two-way radio which networked Canyon Dam, completed in 1963, them to Flagstaff, Grand Canyon and created calm waters and thus safe Dean and Edna riding the cable car Albuquerque. The radio was for recreation there. Today, Lee's Ferry is Note: Can see "fish" instrument at reporting purposes and only turned on the launching site for 27,000 river- bottom of car. at 8 a.m. MON-Friday. If there was runners a year. It is also home to one an emergency, communication had to of the world's premier trout fisheries. Ferry. Dean died at age 81, in 1983, wait until 8 a.m. the next weekday Set among such spectacular geology, and Edna returned to Montana. She morning. A portable AM battery- it is frequented by tourists and died in 1994 at age 85. The couple operated radio provided some historians alike. Both Lee's Ferry and are survived by their three daughters, entertainment. But clear-channel the Lonely Dell Ranch, are on the six grandchildren and six great- stations like KSL in Salt Lake, KOA National Register of Historic Places. grandchildren. Having once lived at in Denver and KFI in Los Angeles, Two national parks, Grand Canyon the beginning of the magnificent would only boom-in after dark. and Glen Canyon National Grand Canyon, Dean and Edna now Edna stayed busy running the Recreation Area, join there. While rest where it all began for them-- homestead and helping Dean human use of Lee's Ferry is on the Whitehall. whenever possible. She enjoyed visits grandest scale it has ever seen, there with the Griffin family, who owned are no longer any inhabitants. Yet Traci is the proud granddaughter of the Lonely Dell Ranch. Claude Lee's Ferry continues to be shaped by Dean and Edna. She hikes in Grand Delbridge was the ranch's caretaker. the people passing through its striking Canyon with her husband Tim, twice Edna's infectious personality and gift assortment of cliffs. a year. of gab had her fast acquainted with Dean's career took he and Edna the river-runners of that decade. on to Flagstaff and later to Boulder Author's Note: With special thanks to Georgie White, Harry Aleson, the City, Nevada. He retired in my Aunt and Uncle, Buzz and Gay Sanderson brothers, Doc Marston, the November 1967 from the Arizona Cameron, without whose knowledge Hatch brothers and Art Green (who District of Blythe Field, headquarter- of the details of my Grandparent's operated a craft motorized by a ed in Blythe, California. The couple daily life at Lee's Ferry, this article blaring airplane propeller) were all eventually settled in Orderville, Utah, would not have been possible. friends and acquaintances. Before about 80 miles northwest of Lee's

14 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007

Grand Canyon Association Events

The Grand Canyon Association has produced Canyon Country Community Lecture Series, a series of lectures held in Flagstaff, Prescott, Phoenix, Glendale, Tempe, and Grand Canyon. If you have any questions about the events listed on this page, please write Grand Canyon Association at PO Box 399, Grand Canyon AZ 86023 or [email protected] or call (800) 858-2808 or visit www.grandcanyon.org.

Orphan Lode National Park Service and the origin of park shapes and dancing light. Join former Uranium Mine and National Security rangers, as well as her own career in the Arizona Highways photography editor by Michael Amundson park service. Muleady-Mecham is an Richard Maack for a visual journey into SUN, JAN 21 Adjunct Professor of Biology at Northern northern Arizona's magnificent slot Sharlot Hall Museum, Prescott @ 1 PM Arizona University. She works part time as canyons. Along the Grand Canyon National Park's a Registered Nurse, Board Certified in Hermit Road sits the former Orphan Lode Emergency Medicine at Flagstaff Medical Bert Loper: Uranium Mine. The mine was once one of Center. She continues to work seasonally as Grand Old Man of the Colorado the nation's richest uranium mines, a Park Ranger in America’s National Parks. by Brad Dimock operating on an inholding within the park. Nancy has been published in several WED, MARCH 07 Northern Arizona University historian professional journals. NAU Cline Library, Flagstaff @ 7 PM Michael Amundson will discuss the mine MON, MARCH 12 and the political battles that surrounded it. I Am the Grand Canyon: Shrine of the Ages, GCNP @ 7:30 PM The Story of the Havasupai People THURSDAY, MARCH 15 Harold Colton's Legacy of by Stephen and Lois Hirst Foothills Library, Glendale @ 7 PM Volcano Studies in Northern Arizona TUES, FEB 13 SUN, MARCH 18 by Wayne Ranney. Riordan Mansion State Historic Park, Sharlot Hall Museum, Prescott @ 1 PM WED, JAN 24 Brown Bag Lecture, Flagstaff @ 12:15 PM Bert Loper's name is well known along the NAU Cline Library, Flagstaff @ 7 PM THURSDAY, MARCH 22 rapid stretches of the Colorado River as one Harold S. Colton, founder of the Museum of Prescott Public Library, In the Founders of the great old-time boatmen. Yet little is Northern Arizona, was a pioneer in the Suite, Prescott @ 7 PM known of him other than his spectacular study of volcanoes found between Flagstaff I Am the Grand Canyon is the story of the demise: he died at his oars at the age of and the Grand Canyon. Learn about this Havasupai people. From their origins eighty while running one last rapid. Brad fascinating man and his groundbreaking among the first group of Indians to arrive in Dimock has spent five years researching the research through a presentation by Wayne North America some 20,000 years ago to long life of Loper, from his orphaned Ranney, Yavapai College geology professor their epic struggle to regain traditional lands childhood in Missouri, through his careers and author of Carving Grand Canyon taken from them in the nineteenth century, as a cow-milker, fence-builder, ditch-digger, published by the Grand Canyon the Havasupai have a long and colorful mule-skinner, hard-rock-miner, coal miner Association. history. The story of this tiny tribe once and prospector, to his working peak as a confined to a too-small reservation depicts a head boatman for two surveys of the Carving Grand Canyon: people with deep cultural ties to the land, Colorado River system. Evidence, Theories and Mystery both on their former reservation below the by Wayne Ranney rim of the Grand Canyon and on the sur- Grand Obsession: TUES, JAN 30 rounding plateaus. In the spring of 1971, Harvey Butchart and the Exploration of REI, 12634 N Paradise Village Parkway, the federal government proposed incorporat- Grand Canyon's Backcountry Phoenix @ 6:30 PM ing still more Havasupai land into Grand by Elias Butler and Tom Myers WED, JAN 31 Canyon National Park. At hearings that MON, MAR 19 REI, 1405 W Southern, Tempe @ 6:30 PM spring, Havasupai Tribal Chairman Lee Shrine of the Ages, GCNP @ 7:30 PM Geologist Wayne Ranney, who has studied Marshall rose to speak. “I heard all you The Grand Canyon comprised one of the the Grand Canyon for over 30 years, tells people talking about the Grand Canyon,” he last remaining unknowns in the mid-20th the amazing story of the Colorado River, said. “Well, you’re looking at it. I am the century West. Enter math professor John which may have originated from a precursor Grand Canyon!” Marshall made it clear that Harvey Butchart. He moved his family to that flowed opposite its present direction! Havasu Canyon and the surrounding plateau Flagstaff to take a job at Arizona State This story includes the evolving ideas of were critical to the survival of his people; College (now NAU) in 1945. Following a many well-known early geologists such as his speech laid the foundation for the return routine tour bus stop at the South Rim, John Wesley Powell, Clarence Dutton and of thousands of acres of Havasupai land in Butchart found his life’s great purpose: to Eliot Blackwelder, who were pioneers in 1975. I Am the Grand Canyon is the story of plunge into the Canyon and decipher its deciphering this mystery with very few a heroic people who refused to back down mysteries, to rediscover the spider web of clues. The story introduces a host of modern when facing overwhelming odds. They pre-Columbian Indian routes crisscrossing day geologists who use sophisticated won, and today the Havasupai way of life the gorge, to climb its peaks and buttes, and techniques to glean information of the quietly continues in the Grand Canyon and to record his findings for the rest of us. canyon's cryptic history. on the surrounding plateaus. Obsessed and physically gifted, Butchart led the way by walking over more of Grand Park Ranger: The Sandstone Canyons of the Colorado Canyon than anyone else has living or dead. A Life in the National Park Service Plateau: A Photographer's Perspective One Who Dared, by Elias Butler and Tom by Nancy E. Muleady-Mecham by Richard Maack Myers, is part biography and part modern WED, FEB 07 SUN, FEB 18 adventure story. Listen to the authors as they NAU Cline Library, Flagstaff @ 7 PM Sharlot Hall Museum, Prescott @ 1 PM piece together Butchart’s feats, tragedies, A veteran National Park Service ranger and Seasonal flash floods cut into the Colorado and legacy while tracing his footsteps along author of Park Ranger, Nancy Muleady- Plateau to form narrow slot canyons, which the hairy routes he pioneered in the wilds of Mecham will discuss the history of the provide a photogenic feast of swirling Grand Canyon.

GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007 15

Kolb Studio Exhibit

November 2 – February 18 Passionate Vision, Landscape Painting by Joella Jean Mahoney. Joella Jean Mahoney's large-scale paintings powerfully convey the essence of the Colorado Plateau. These dramatic works are selected from five decades of paintings, inspired by hiking and living in this matchless landscape. Mahoney's passionate expression and brilliant technique fuse geological, emotional and spiritual qualities into images of the experience of place. "Joella Jean Mahoney's work continues a great tradition of romantic landscape painting in the Southwest. Her style and commitment to her subject display a veracity and spiritual aspect equaled by few artists". Alan Peterson, guest curator of this exhibit, Chair of Fine Arts, Coconino Community College. This exhibit is sponsored by Grand Canyon Association and Grand Canyon National Park., original artwork by Joella Jean Mahoney.

February 28 – March 29 Arts for Our Park Legacies. The exhibit features artwork created by Grand Canyon National Park's schoolchildren. An opening reception will be held on Wednesday, February 28 from 6 - 7 PM.

Grand Canyon Historical Society PRSRT STD PO Box 345 U.S. POSTAGE Flagstaff Arizona 86002 PAID 01-07 PRESCOTT, AZ PERMIT #43 ADDRESS SERVICE REQUESTED

16 GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL SOCIETY – THE OL' PIONEER, JAN/FEB/MAR 2007