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PARC NATUREL RÉGIONAL --

Our heritage has future

The heritage walking trails Discovery booklet When there were sailors on the Loire

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When there were sailors on the Loire Quai de l’ancien port 1 Land ! D

Place du mail Place Good wind ! 8 2 Let’s Haute rue

Château

MONTSOREAU

rue Jehann

chemin du coteau

des Ouches des

ruelle ruelle

Montsoreau 7 Chemin du coteau Candes-Saint-Martin The call of the land When there were sailors on the Loire

Meet at the stopping point, and set off following the markings...

This production is the result of close cooperation between two villages, Montsoreau and Candes-Saint-Martin, and their local association two departments, -et-Loire and -et-Loire and two regions, Centre and . The destiny of these two towns changed dramatically with the disappearance of the Loire merchant fleet. Candes-Saint-Martin underwent a reduction in population from 664 in 1856 to 222 in 2009. Montsoreau, which had 1097 inhabitants en 1851, had a mere 480 in 2010. livret Candes Montsoreau anglais modifié_livret Candes Montsoreau 17/06/2014 21:03 Page 4

port

Place des diligences 2 Let’s play

Quai 3 The moods of the river

rue Jehanne d’Arc

coteau

des Ouches des

ruelle ruelle Ruelle Saint-Martin Pray for us du coteau 4 f the land CANDES- SAINT-MARTIN

rue Nationale

rue du puits

Saint-Michel 6 Collégiale Rue du puits Saint-Michel Living on water and

chemin

rur al

n°24 Rue des perrières Stone haulers 5

Panorama

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When there were sailors on the Loire Did you know that for many the Loire was an extraordinary place to live and work ? Let’s take a short trip back in time. We are now in the second half of the XIXth century and the river is crowded with a fleet of barges, tugs, cranes and flat- bottomed boats. These boats transported timber, wine, coal, blocks of stone anf fabrics. Look again, carefully. You see the lad leaning on the bridge of the barge called " Va d’bon cœur " ? That’s Simon. He earned the title " compagnon marinier "(professionally qualidied mariner) a few months ago. Together with his boss Jean, Simon sails the rivers earning his living. Let’s go and meet him down at the quayside. He will gladly tell you all about the life of a Loire sailor. livret Candes Montsoreau anglais modifié_livret Candes Montsoreau 17/06/2014 21:03 Page 7

stopping point 1 Quai de l’ancien port

Land ! " We came from the sea port of Saint-Nazaire. We putin at Ponts-de-Cé where we took on a load of Trélazé slates. The West wind favoured us. The voyage was calm. It isn’t always like that ! Look out behind you ! You’re in the way. Oh yes ! There are crowds of people on the quay, Montsoreau is a very busy commercial port. I must go and help my boss unload. If you’d like to give us a helping hand, you’re more than welcome. If not, go and see “la place des diligences”. I’ll catch up with you there. "

To help you find the stopping points ...

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The Loire and its tributaries, comprising in all 1600 km of waterways that are navigable most of the , together with a large network, transported all sorts og goods from the most remote areas navigable waterways in the provinces to major ports such as , Mark on the map these where boats then major destinations - , set off for the four , , the corners of the globe. Match these goods Méditerranean, Brest, with their point of origin , the West Indies - armesweapons Le Puy that where accessible by sucresugar Bretagne water from the port of tuffeautufa Anjou Montsoreau. (solution p. 20) selsalt faïenceschina ware Saint-Étienne lace Antilles (solution p. 20) See, feel, imagine...

The mooring-rings The quays The noise The smells for river craft Construction started in Boats creaking, sails Trampled horse 1858 and continued for flapping, the din of off- droppings, the sweat of some thirty years. Built loading, shouting and man and beast, goods long and wide with two cursing, the noise of piled up, saltpetre from slipway levels to enable carts, horses neighing... tufa stone, acrid wood off-loading at high and smoke, the mingled low water, they conside- odeurs of wine and rably improved delivry spirits ... of goods at the port of Montsoreau.

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stopping point 2 Place des diligences

Time for games " After work, we like to get together in the village tavern. We tell the folk there about our adventures, our worries over navigation, our encounters. Their eyes widen ! You should see ! Obviously, we exaggerate our tales a bit, there’s nobody to check ! We talk about women, our girl-friends who wait for us there, on far away river banks... There’s time to play a round of “” (a ), then back bed in the cabin on board the boat, the next morning is often hard. A mariner’s job is not all siting around. While I think of it, come to the quay, I’d like to show you somthing. "

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Monsieur The cow Two of (three of ) : (two of chalices) : (two of cudgels) : raise your eyes to you pout show your first and the sky middle fingers

123

The 4 series of 12 cards in the game of aluette represent peasants (cudgels), merchants (coins), the gentry () and priest (chalices). You can help your partner guess some of your cards by Match each card pulling a face. with its name and you’ll know I am the center of the face pulled. attention in the (solution p. 20) sports club. Who I am ? (solution p. 20)

See, feel, imagine ...

The Climatic vagaries The game of The pitch did not was originally built at At the beginning of the “boule de fort”, include the corridor at water’s edge ; its nineteenth century a made its appearance in the side, which we moat being filled by the windless month Anjou in the nineteenth know today as “the Loire. The road becalmed 400 boats at century. Organised in gangway” and which you alongside the river was Montsoreau. Days that for men only, the notice when you look only built in 1830 ; the were spent killing time game takes place out of through the windows of “Place des diligences” was by playing and drinking doors, on a pitch 25-30 the “club”, a covered the only route through explain the mariners’ metres long by 6-7 building used by the Montsoreau. reputation as carousers metres wide. The many adepts of the among the land lubbers. opponents compete for modern version of the 11, 12 or 15 points. game.

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stopping point 3 Quai Alexandre Dumas You can find highg water marks and old graffiti engraved in the tufa on houses in Candes in the mariners’ district.

The river’s moods " Look at these high water marks. I told you that the river is not always so peaceful ! How many times have the houses bordering the river been flooded, the fields inundated ! We sailors never know whether to be more afraid of drought or high water. No water, no work. Yet a flood changes the course of the river. Often, a boat will get caught on trees submerged by the current, or beached on a sandbank, broken on the rocks. Jean never comes near the marker, it reminds him of his friend " Panse de bique " (nanny goat’s belly), who got drowned. "

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ighg arks “Patouilles, bourdes, affiti crochets à pique, gaffes à e tufa pousser” - the many es in differents types of stave, n the pole and spiked hook so trict. essential for navigating at the On approaching an 1 time. obstacle, a long pole with an iron-clad end was used 2 for turning the boat, pushing against the bank, with the other end fitted into an “arronçoir”, a wooden plank with notches, fixed on each 3 side of the stern and bows of the boat. 4 5

Where are these parts of the barge ? the boom - the “piautre” (helml) - the weather vane and the pennant - capstan - the “arronçoirs”

See, feel, imagine ...

The 500 km bollard The wind Storms on the Loire can At night Standing squarely on the Always there, it is be devastating. As for Traffic has to find a quay, the bollard marks essential to the art of the wind from the berth an hour before the 500 kilometres from navigation. The course North-West, violent sunset, making off again the highest navigable of the Loire runs against and unpredictable, an hour before sunrise. point, at Andrézieux. the dominant west causing many wrecks, When evening comes, Given the nick-name wind, which blows most we shout at it “Fils de vessels of all sorts “Justice of the Peace” by of the year and enables galerne!”, (son-of-a...) a huddle together, the locals, it helped in boats to move against real local insult. “stretched out” along settling disputes the current. If it veers the banks to spend the between the mariners to the south, a storm is night there. and the haulers. probably brewing.

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stopping point 4 Ruelle Saint-Martin

In t 7 h in t (sol

Th Pray for us was " Here is the confluence of the Loire and the . Do you see how their waters Mar

Can flow side by side without mixing ? It’s simple, they aren’t the same colour. The a pla large building you see here is the Saint-Martin Collegiate. It seems that a stained is sa glass window was installed here showing Saint-Martin with the mariners. It will body

perhaps surprise some -those who say that mariners are more often seen in a boat

bar than in church - but i’m going in to say a prayer to Saint-Martin. It costs nove

haw nothing, as my grandmother used to say. And anyway. God alone knows what’s in river store for us. " flow

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The mariner, more often found on the water than in his parish, is frequently considered as a bad Christian by In the highly religious local nineteenth century, people. when the violence of the elements was often considered a manifesta- tion of God’s wrath, there were also His , Saint Clment ans Saint Nicolas, whose In the design of the stained glass windows, there are protection you could call 7 hidden errors. Look at the stained glass window on before embarking. in the collegiate and discover the differences. (solution p. 20)

See, feel, imagine ...

The Collegiate of the expression “Saint- The quay at and to Saint- was dedicated to Saint- Martin’s summer”. Candes is smaller than Nazaire. Martin who died at that of Montsoreau, it The Candes ferry- Candes, which became The streets was important for the boat taking passengers a place of pilgrimage. It bordered by company of “gabelous”, to the other side of the is said that when the mariners’ homes, tax inspectors control- river in Veron, was body was being taken by with their weather ling dealing in salt who operational until the boat to , in mid- vanes, their windows were based there. bridge at Candes was november, the looking onto the river A plaque on one commissioned in 1969. hawthorn trees on the and their big doors house tells us how far it river banks were in full enclosing the is frome Candes to flower. This is the origin boathouse.

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stopping point 5 Rue des perrières

Stone haulers " Not too breathless ? The slope of Tire-Jarret (suspender-puller !) is well named, isn’t it ? We have an appointment here with our quarry-man. There he is, just coming. He lives in one of the caves over there. It is we Loire mariners who have been entrusted with transporting the stone of Touraine and d’Anjou. The waterways are faster, safer and more practical than the roads, so often in a bad state ! While my boss is negotiationg, have a look around, go up to the Candes panorama. It’s quite close by. I’ll wait for you on your way back. "

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The main means of transpor- ting tufa until the mid-nine- teenth century, the Loire fleet was responsible for distribu- ting the stone that supplied construction sites all the way to Nantes. It was even loaded Builder’s sand on sea-going vessels to be sent to the colonies, such as the Isle of Santo-Domingo.

Wood Coffee La batellerie de Loire assurait le commerce de nombre d’autres productions locales. Traditionnellement trans- portées sur la Loire, cer- taines de ces marchan- Wine dises n’étaient produites Mushrooms ni à Candes, ni à Montsoreau. Lesquelles ? (solution p. 20)

Prunes Slate

See, feel, imagine ...

The former This much sought-after over to form a troglo- Wood from boats tufa quarries stone, soft and easy to dyte home, a wine cel- reused for building work, was used for buil- lar or store ... Prune In some of the houses, Traditional ding both chateaux and producers, wine makers the main supporting building using tufa fore more modest and mushroom growers beams are former boat dwellings. Tufa were quick to set up masts. provides both the uni- their businesses in formity and the refine- them. ment of our village architecture. After a cavity was axcavated, its façade was often closed

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stopping point 6 Rue du puits Saint-Michel

Living on water and wine " Business was quickly concluded. Labourers bring the stone down to the port. You want to know why my boss called a halt here ? Look at the vineyard on the hillside facing us. He has a plot over there. I think he’s in discussion with a wine grower to buy a few more hundred square metres. He spends his free time from plying the tiver to tend his vines. I’ve tasted his wine. It’s good. I must say that Jean prefers quality to quantity. He’s not someone who says « Good stuff doesn’t give a good return ! » "

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Wine is a sensitive product and it is hazardous for a mariner because of the vagaries of navigation : too long on the water and there is a risk that the ? quality and even the quantity of the wine will deteriorate. The season for transport is short and As early as 1784, Pierre the quantities to be Jacquet and Jean Rognot delivered are quite headed a convoy of 28 boats, considerable so often with a total of 2200 barrels of several boat owners wine. Knowing that amounted have to get together to a volume of 4906 to be able to fulfil hectolitreshectolitre = their contracts. one hundred litres), what is the volume of a barrel of wine ? (solution p. 20)

A convoy of barges is arranged in diminishing size : the “mother” in the lead bearing the largest sail and taking the helm. Next, with smaller and smaller sized sails so as not to take the wind from the preceding boat, follows a whole series of boats “tireau, sous-tireau, soubre, soubriquet” with lighters in tow bringing up the rear.

See, feel, imagine ...

The century, carried up the Wine-cellar mills small trades were exer- waterways to Paris. The One of three types of cised - sheep farming, The low tufa walls actual growing of the windmills in Anjou, they barrel-maker - that that divide the plots vines was in part were an invention of have now died out. The Loire wine grower undertaken by the troglodyte living. and mariner were In summer, the mariners who bought bound together twice The valley of light and heat of the plots to ensure a over. The riverside Ouches and its many hillside contrast with supplementary income. slopes have produced varied crops bear wit- the coolness of the significant quantities of ness to the intense far- streets, shaded and well-reputed wine since ming activity on the refreshed by breezes off the seventeenth plateau where many the water.

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stopping point 7 Chemin du coteau

The call of the land " Jean dreams of buying one of the small houses that you see below us. He often talks of leaving the boat, getting married to a girl from here, having children. I think he’s getting old. It’s true that when we’re travelling the solitude often weighs heavy. In any event, I’m not ready to become a country bumpkin ! I’ll stay ! When we get to a port, I can’t help it, all I can think of is leaving again. I’ve already got itchy feet now. Tell me, do you mind if we go and see where we have to load our stone ? "

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1 2 5 3

4

6 Amond the mariners every degree of wealth could be found, from the greatest poverty to very real fortunes. Despite their reputation for making rotten husbands, being lazy and quarrelsome, “never there 1/ Isn’t it great between them when when they’re needed”, mariners finished up they’re clean and fresh ? finding a wife, sometimes far from their 2/ Piece of furniture with a lid. homes : the nomadic The future wife would 3/ You pull them to feel cosily at home. life gave many more bring a dowry to equip a 4/ Something full of feathers. opportunities for dwelling. Compete the 5/ Cutlery goes with it. meeting someone than grid opposite, and 6/ As you make yours, so you lie in it. did a sedentary life ! you’ll learn what made up the bride’s dowry. (solution p.20)

See, feel, imagine ...

Typical architec- troglodytic houses. social scale. However, The gardens ture of the Val de Beautiful houses built money was not the only of today are often desi- Loire high up on the hillside, criterion for social gned on the classical modest houses like the recognition. While the model of elegant cha- Different types mariners’, down below boat pilots were teaux gardens : a geome- of houses at the water’s edge. considered as simple tric layout, manicured Tufa and slate, wine By comparaison with the crafsmen, some had a box hedges, espalier- cellars, chateaux and troglodytic houses, the real business activity trained fruit trees ... modest homes... semi-troglodytic had an which conferred on Town houses, the extension built out in them the rank of an gentry’houses, front, which meant a “honest man”. troglodytic and semi- higher place on the

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stopping point 8 Place du mail

Bon vent ! “ There she is the “ Va d’bon cœur ”. I’m so impatient to embark ! We are off to deliver our stone at . I’ve never been there before. What I like about this job, is that you get to see the country too ! Jean told me that Gien lies upstream and far away. So far away that it’s beyond the reach of the sea wind. To move ahead, you have to be towed. I can’t wait to see how that works ! But now we’re hauling up the sail. The adventure continues ! Off we go, a fair wind to you, and see you again next time round ! “.

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Seen on the quay at every departure, is the mariner’s travelling chest needed on every voyage. But what’s inside it ? Ring the right answers. (solution p. 20)

The personal tools An “iron bull that of the mariner ? smokes, blows and A prayer book ? A yellow waxed jacket ? bellows”, saccording to the poet’s definition will Rubber boots ? finally replace the Loire A change of clothing ? fleet, which is enjoying its last great days. What is A good bottle of rum ? it ? (solution p. 20)

See, feel, imagine ...

The wind as you get further away The motorcar The wind was the mari- from the sea : the need civilisation ner’s vital partner, for “ towing ”, which As we go down to the it arrives in strength meant having the boat stopping point, the once you get near the pulled by horses on the noise gets gradually shore. It escorted our bank or by people using louder announcing the voyagers to Orleans, a rope, became virtually traffic on the road. which they could reach inevitable. After the arrival of the in 8 to 10 days with a railways, which signed fair wind. After that the the death warrant of river turns to the south- the Loire fleet, the roas east and the wind drops has the last word ...

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Solutions p. 9 p. 17 to the quizzes Parts of a barge The bride’s dowry 1 : weather vane and pennant 1 : sheets 2 : 2 : chest p. 5 the boom, a piece of wood 3 : curtains Complete the map fixed to the mast and to which the sail is attached, 4 : eiderdown 1 : West Indies 3 : the capstan, a hand windlass 5 : crockery On their arrival at Nantes the for raising the mast and for 6 : bed goods were reloaded onto sea- towning, A dowry could be going vessels to be sent to all 4 : the “piautre”, a wooden helm, supplemented by a few ecus, a the points on the globe. 5 : the “arronçoirs” few measures of grain, some 2 : Brest, Brittany, by the canal vats for the , the use of from Nantes to Brest. p. 11 a plot of land and one or two 3 : Paris, by the canal from The 7 errors sheep... Briare and Orléans that are lin- 1 : the roof on the tower ked to the . 2 : the flag at the top of the p. 19 4 : Lyon, Marseille, the Mediter- mast What is it ? ranean, by the central canal 3 : the goblet on the tomb The railway. that links up with the , 4 : the roll of parchment in the which flows into the Rhône. The mariner’s chest ? hand of the sleeper Not a yellow waxed jacket or Source of goods : 5 : the way the person on the rubber boots ! The mariner, weapons : Saint-Étienne left is facing when he’s not barefoot, wears sugar : West Indies 6 : the sail is missing clogs made from poplar wood tufa : Anjou 7 : the shape of the door. that don’t slip on the wet salt : Brittany planks of the deck. porcelaine : Nevers A change of clothing is rare : it’s lace : Le Puy p. 13 said that the mariner all Goods not produced in his clothong on his back. p. 7 Candes or Montsoreau : As far as the bottle of rum is Aluette cards coffee comes from the West concerned, more generally 1 : Two of oaks Indies, associated with the long haul 2 : Monsieur the slates come from Trélazé, mariner, it is replaced here by 3 : The cow mushrooms were not grown “eau de vie” (brandy) made by Who I am ? The “boule de here until the twentieth granny, and the only remedy on fort”, is played on a curved century. board against all ills. pitch with an asymmetrical ball. A Bible and a rosary complete The ground must be perfectly p. 15 “the medicine chest”. smooth to enable the players Capacity of a barrel of The tools of the mariner (adze, to calculate a throw compensa- wine : “doloire”, hammer, etc.) are ting for curl in its trajectory. 223 litres. needed on every voyage.

Conception graphique et maîtrise d’œuvre : S. & J. JUPIN, 02 43 88 84 95 - Textes : Frédéric RICHAUD Illustrations couverture et p 4/5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 : Mickaël JANVIER - Imprimerie du Centre, Doué-la-Fontaine ISBN 2-9524393-0-3 20 livret Candes Montsoreau anglais modifié_livret Candes Montsoreau 17/06/2014 21:03 Page 24

DOCUMENTARY Vie quotidienne au temps PÉRIODIcals RESSOURCES de la marine de Loire, 1972. Bulletins des amis du BOOKS ON THE LOIRE musée de la marine de Loire PERSON (de) Françoise de Châteauneuf-sur-Loire. CHAUSSARD P. Bateliers sur la Loire, La marine de Loire, C.L.D., 1995. Cahiers du Conservatoire , Horvath, 1980. des Rives de la Loire, POIRIER Jacques Hôtel de la Région, Nantes. COMTE Marie-Françoise Un fleuve en 1840, la Voyage sur la Loire, Loire, Albin Michel Jeunesse, 303 n°49, Loire, 1996. C.L.D., 1998. Paris, 1985. n°75, Loire, 2002. COUDERC Jean-Marie PROUST Pascal Fluvial, revue mensuelle. La Loire insolite, LAURENDEAU Pierre La Loire et ses terroirs, C.L.D., 2001. Carnets de Loire, revue mensuelle. Le Polygraphe, , 1996. DUSSOURD et DEJEUX STRIP CAROONS Les hommes de la Loire, VILLIERS et SENOTIER Berger-Levrault, 1985. Histoire de la marine de HIETTRE et AILLERIE Loire, Grandvaux, 1996. Le Grand Fleuve, FRAYSSE Jeanne et Camille coll. Repérages, Dupuis. , imp. Farré & fils, CONSERVATOIRE RÉGIONAL T. 1 : Jean Tambour, 1990. Loire angevine et Maine, DES RIVES DE LA LOIRE T. 2 : Vent de mar, 1990. mariniers et riverains d’au- Portraits de Loire, icono- T. 3 : L’île aux canes, 1992. trefois, 1967. graphie du XVIIe à nos T. 4 : Hussards en Galerne, 1995. jours, Coiffard.

Le Parc naturel régional Loire-Anjou-Touraine 141 towns - 193 000 inhabitants ANGERS VILLE-PORTE Founded in 1996, the first Loire Nature Park covers 271 000 ha (625 000 acres) in the departments of Indre-et-Loire (Centre

BEAUFORT-EN-VALLÉE Région) and Maine-et-Loire (Pays de la Loire Region).

LONGUÉ Parc naturel régional GENNES TOURS VILLE-PORTE Loire-Anjou-Touraine ALLONNES Maison du Parc AZAY-LE-RIDEAU 15 avenue de la Loire DOUÉ-LA-FONTAINE 49730 MONTSOREAU MONTSOREAU MAISON DU PARC Tél. 02 41 38 38 88 MONTREUIL-BELLAY Fax 02 41 38 38 89 L’ÎLE-BOUCHARD www.parc-loire-anjou- touraine.fr

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THE HERITAGE WALKING TRAILS How does it work ?

Marked trails are proposed according to specific themes. A discovery booklet provides a point by point guide to the countryside you will be crossing, and an imaginary character gives a short history of the sites seen...

Meet at the starting point, and set off following the markings Montsoreau/Candes-Saint-Martin When there were sailors on the Loire Travel back in time a whole century and let Simon guide you along the narrow streets of Montsoreau and Candes-Saint- Martin ! You will follow the footsteps of the mariners who lived the last great days of the Loire fleet in the second half of the nineteenth century, and you’ll dicover places that still bear witness to their passing. Prix : 1€

PARC NATUREL RÉGIONAL LOIRE-ANJOU-TOURAINE Maison du Parc - 15 avenue de la Loire - 49730 MONTSOREAU - www.parc-loire-anjou-touraine.fr Tél. 02 41 38 38 88

CONSEIL GÉNÉRAL D'INDRE ET LOIRE CANDES SAINT MARTIN