TOMB MAY TELL Business Activities Onto Airports > by Night and Passengers and Is Demanding Hand, and When Vital Deci- Special Treatment

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A report from the Krakow Fly Away YMCA >> page 3 John Walczak Poland The low-cost carrier announced last month that it is suspending all Bronisław Geremek remem- flights from Krakow from Nov. 4 to bered Dec. 19. It cites low passenger >> page 6 numbers, high fuel prices and airport fees as the reason for its Feature decision. In addition to Krakow, Rzeszów will also have all Ryanair The Post explores bike flights suspended and Warsaw trails around Krakow will have its Dublin connection >> page 10, 11 grounded during this time. Rya- nair founder Michael O’Leary an- Business nounced that it costs less to keep aircraft on the ground than to fly The future of Skeletor to these destinations. decided? >> page 13 Rumours have begun circulating that Ryanair will not return to Kra- Sport kow after the suspension, and will move to Katowice Airport instead. Polish Beckham in police Aviation industry experts claim punch-up that this tactic is an attempt to >> page 14 try and force the airports to lower Photograph by Adrian Pingstone their fees. Culture Ryanair is threatening to leave Krakow for good. The authorities at Krakow Balice Summer at the Kossaks’ Airport reacted very angrily to >> page 15 these statements. “Ryanair has shown yet again that it is a carrier that doesn’t care about its passengers. Not for the first time it Citylife is trying to pass on the cost of its TOMB MAY TELL business activities onto airports > by night and passengers and is demanding hand, and when vital deci- special treatment. In an ultima- sions require to be taken in Notes From the tum addressed to the Krakow Air- consultation with us – is a Underground bewildering visitation of port Authority and also to several Was Poland’s WWII leader /CL 2 other Polish airports, the carrier Providence; so much so, is demanding the abolition of all that Poles everywhere sus- > reviews airport fees in the November - De- assassinated? pect the hand, not of Provi- cember period,” said a statement dence, but of a felonious Drop In, Fork Out, enemy.” from Krakow Airport. Get Served Nick Hodge The new chief executive of Kra- The results of the Big Three /CL 3, 5 kow Airport thinks that the infor- meeting at Tehran in No- mation that Ryanair is to leave he Archbishop 1939 until his death four “This catastrophe,” wrote vember 1943 served to fuel > spotlight of Krakow, Car- years later. the Polish ambassador to the suspicions of conspir- Krakow for good is a marketing Coke Live Music Festival ploy. He commented, “This isn’t dinal Stanisław London in his diary, “com- acy theorists. It has been previewed the first such announcement from TDziwisz, has At 11 p.m. on the 4th of ing at a turning-point in the stressed that Churchill and them and until now none have given his blessing for the July 1943, Sikorski’s plane war, when the Big Three Roosevelt made it /CL 6 >> 2 been fulfilled. It seems as though tomb of General Władysław took off for London on the meeting is apparently at clear to Stalin at the airline is playing off airports Sikorski to be opened. return-leg of a trip to Brit- > posted in southern Poland against each ish Gibraltar. Seconds after other.” The general, whose passen- climbing into the air, the Concerts, exhibitions & ger plane crashed in pecu- vehicle plunged into the parties The withdrawal of Ryanair’s serv- liar circumstances 65 years water. Of the plane’s 16 /CL 7, 8, 9, 10 ices from Krakow will reduce the ago, is an iconic figure in passengers, only the pilot number of cities passengers can Poland, and conspiracy the- survived. fly to; however, this may only be ories about his death have temporary as other low-cost air- never been quelled. An official British inquiry lines are waiting in the wings to at the time ruled that the take over gaps in the market. Sikorski was prime minister death had been accidental. of the Polish government- Yet from the outset, there in-exile from September were cries of foul play: Sikorski’s tomb, undisturbed for the moment at Wawel 2 Krakow Post August 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow

Letters << Continued from 1

To the editor Tehran that they would not thwart his territorial designs on Poland. The ulti- mate conference at Yalta in February RE: We DO Speak English. Really. 1945 appeared to cement this arrange- ment, and Poland teetered into the Soviet sphere. It was not until 1993, following the fall of the Iron Curtain, Dear Editor, that Sikorski’s body was brought back to Poland. I’m writing in response to your article entitled ‘’We DO Speak English. Real- Theories about the elimination of

ly!’’ about Polish people’s poor knowl- Sikorski have developed in many di- London Sikorski Museum. and Institute Polish Image: edge and usage of English in the Polish rections over the last few decades. The British General, General Sikorski, Winston Churchill, Charles de Gaulle, Lt Gen Andrew McNaughton, UK 1941 service industry. I disagree with the finger has been pointed at Russian, Further accusations fly around the Although acknowledging Russian in- author’s opinion and assumption. In If every- British and even Polish hands. Some figure of Kim Philby. Mr. Philby, a per- terests in removing Sikorski, Profes- the author’s opinion, everyone in the “ have claimed that the general was ceived pillar of the establishment, was sor Davies was dismissive of British service industry - for example, wait- one in murdered before he actually entered the head of British Intelligence for Gi- involvement in any alleged attack, ers, cashiers and shop assistants,etc. Poland the plane. braltar at the time of Sikorski’s death. saying that “the British went to great - should be able to speak English flu- In 1963, he was unmasked as a long- lengths to protect the plane from the ently. If everyone in Poland had a lot had a lot Lech Kaczyński, today’s president of serving double agent, and he spent his Russians.” He added that the freeze on of opportunity, money, time and ef- of oppor- Poland, is backing the belated autopsy last years in Moscow, where he was British intelligence documents relating ficient resources for studying English, on Sikorski, as is Prime Minister Don- commemorated as a hero on Russian to Sikorski was “not discriminatory to- then maybe everyone in the country tunity, ald Tusk. postal stamps. wards the Poles,” as this was the gen- would be able to speak English flu- eral status quo regarding intelligence ently. But, in reality English is still not money, “The tragic circumstances of the death Another theory, currently being devel- files. accessible, cheap or the most impor- time and of General Sikorski should be clari- oped as a TV series by Polish journalist tant priority for everyone in Poland. It fied,” the president said. “The exhu- and historian Dariusz Baliszewski, im- As it was, a third of the passengers on wasn’t so long ago (less than 20 years efficient mation may help in this matter. It is al- plicates Churchill himself in the crime. the doomed Liberator plane were Brit- in fact), that the majority of students resourc- ways worthwhile to pursue the truth.” The Churchill theory has been voiced ish subjects, including two MPs, one of in Poland had to study Russian as a before, the hypothesis being that the whom, Victor Cazalet, was godfather second language. Back then very few es for Russian sabotage remains an enduring British wanted to appease Stalin. As it to Churchill’s daughter Mary. John people in Poland expected that English theme. A pivotal issue is the so-called stands, British Intelligence documents Colville, Churchill’s former secretary, would become as useful and common studying Katyń Affair, which broke three months relating to the incident will remain un- pointed this out in a letter to The Times as it is today. In only 15-20 years, peo- English, before Sikorski’s death. In April 1943, der lock and key until 2043. in January 1969, describing the allega- ple’s perception of English and their the Germans uncovered mass graves of tions as “an absurd fabrication.” opportunities to study and use it have then members of the Polish elite. The Rus- Baliszewski expands on this theory by greatly changed. A lot more people maybe sians denied guilt, claiming that it was implicating Poles in the plot. He says Professor Davies suggests that the now can speak English, but our mother a Nazi plot. General Sikorski, then in that a clique of high-ranking Poles was tragedy may even have been caused by tongue is still Polish and it’s not Polish everyone London, called for a Red Cross inves- unsatisfied with the general’s handling the most mundane of reasons. A Royal people’s obligation to automatically tigation. Stalin promptly broke off all of Polish affairs, and that Sikorski and Airforce report conducted immediate- know and speak English fluently to in the relations with the Polish government- two of his staff were murdered in the ly after the crash, but not published suit tourists’ needs. country in-exile. It was not until 1990 that Gor- British Governor’s residence, prior to at the time, attributed the fault to a bachev admitted Soviet guilt for the the flight. An enduring mystery is that British soldier who fell asleep while

So, a word to the author and other vis- would 20,000 Polish victims. although the plane crashed just metres guarding the plane. The report speci- itors to Poland, next time you’re in a be able from the runway, five of the bodies fied that the guard had keeled over, shop and the staff don’t speak perfect Many conspiracy theorists have argued were never recovered. Likewise, the pi- his rucksack slamming into the plane’s English or any at all, be patient and to speak that Sikorski stood in the way of Rus- lot, a man famed for flying without his controls. remember you are in Poland, we are sia’s designs on Poland. They hold that lifejacket, was plucked from the water trying and considering the very recent English “ the general enjoyed unique prestige with his lifejacket firmly buttoned. Hardened conspiracy theorists will no changes to our history and society, I’d fluently. amongst the Western Allies, and hence doubt refute the British claim, and Pro- say we’re doing pretty well. that he was a critical stumbling block. However, not all observers have been fessor Davies affirms that “Sikorski’s seduced by the conspiracy theories. death is, as it were, unsolved in a fi- Beata z Krakowa Much has been made of the fact that Professor Norman Davies, widely re- nal way.” Hypothetically, an autopsy the Russian ambassador to London, garded as the pre-eminent historian could reveal evidence of foul play Ivan Maisky, made a late notice visit of Polish affairs, told the Krakow Post prior to the flight. However, in all like- to Gibraltar the weekend of Sikorski’s that “none of the conspiracy theories lihood, the exact circumstances of the death, and that his plane was stationed has proved convincing,” adding that no general’s death will remain forever a a stone’s throw from that of Poland’s “reputable historian” had ever made a mystery. leader. case in favour of sabotage. letters to the editor

he Krakow Post welcomes letters to the editor. Letters for Tpublication should be signed and bear the signatory’s e- about mail address and city of residence. The Krakow Post reserves krakow POST the right to edit letters. Krakow Post is a monthly Anna Spysz, Editor-in-Chief For advertising inquiries, Please send letters to the editor at [email protected], publication published by Lifeboat Ltd. [email protected] please contact: or by post at ISSN: 1898-4762 Culture Editor Michal McSperrin-Kossak, www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post [email protected] Sales Manager Ul. Szczepanska 7/4a Mark Bradshaw, Publisher Duncan Rhodes, Nightlife Editor [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] +48 (12) 421 4865 31-011 Krakow Stuart Wilson, Design Printers, www.drukarniapolska.pl www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post August 2008 3 News Krakow

It’s Fun to Play at the YMCA...

A report from Krakow’s YMCA summer camp for local children

Robin Das

t is 8:30 am and eight-year- old Sebastian is lobbing a volleyball shot down the Icourt. A group of fellow eight-year-olds is having a ri- otous time performing hand- stands, and a five-a-side football match is squaring up to be as tense as the last Poland ver- sus Austria showdown.

Welcome to the YMCA’s “Sum- mer in the City” camp, an adren- aline-charged month of sports, activities and days out for around 50 of Krakow’s youngest citizens, who made it to their headquarters on Ulica Krow- oderska every weekday during July. The camp is overseen by the dedicated and resourceful Krakow YMCA Programme Di- rector, Jan Bajger, and supported by Polish assistants and two overseas volunteers who help Children at the Krakow YMCA take a break to pose for the Post run the activities and teach the children simple English phrases and words in a fun way. munity Police involved the chil- ketball, a huge gym, and even to practise their English with The camp gives working par- dren learning about road safety a piece of rope multi-tasking as the volunteers. This usually ents and any family that cannot by dressing up as adults and tug of war and skipping rope happened in chatter when out afford a holiday away from the taking on the roles of pedes- - have always proved popular. and about, which gave the vol- city an opportunity for their trians and cars. Amid the gig- The YMCA gets no government unteers a chance to learn some children to enjoy themselves, gles, shouting and racing to be funding for its camps, so every Polish as well. Holding an “Eng- make new friends and learn first to cross the ‘street’, a seri- zloty needs to be raised and ac- lish quiz” even introduced the some new skills. Each day was ous lesson was finding its way counted for. children to some of Britain’s structured around a theme: home. strange customs. sport, Europe, ecology, Krakow, “The YMCA is at the forefront and fun, helping ensure plenty It was in the early 1980s, upon of providing activities for chil- As well as running “Summer of variation to keep eager and seeing children idling about, dren in Krakow,” acknowledged in the City,” the YMCA also or- active minds occupied. Sure- that Jan decided to set up a Jan. “Fortunately many organi- ganises camps outside Krakow, fire hits included volleyball, club especially for youngsters. sations are aware of this and some held in winter with skiing outdoor swimming and feeding Gradually it grew and when, in some attractions will welcome and snowboarding activities, animals at the Las Wolski Zoo, the 1990s, the Polish YMCA was us for free. A few of the chil- and others during the summer, along with trips to attractions revived (it had been prohibited dren who come to the camp are teaching dancing and sports. such as Ogród Doświadczeń under communism), Jan took from families not so well off (“The Garden of Experiments”) over the running of its Krakow and may not have been to the One thing all the camps have and orientation activities in Jor- centre. While resources may not places, such as the museums, in common is enthusiastic chil- dana Park. be as plentiful as in many chil- that we take them to.” dren eager to have a great time dren’s centres in the UK or U.S., – and a director committed to Teaching the children life with their statutory computers Jan was also keen to inject an making their time as stimulat- skills was woven into the day’s and Game Boys, what the centre international theme through ing and as fun as possible. events. A visit from the Com- does have - table tennis, bas- the camp and for the children

/ photo Anna Spysz

>> 4 4 Krakow Post August 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow

Sixth European Tram TV Launched in Krakow Congress of Analytic Philosophy in Krakow Adelina Krupski tions System (UMTS) cellular technology, the tram obtains updates he Krakow Public Trans- every three minutes. Wojciech Załuski port Company (MPK) and Novamedia Innovision As for future plans, TV M sales di- The European Society for Ana- Tlaunched their latest rector Miłosz Olejniczak stated that lytic Philosophy (ESAP), and lo- multimedia project early last month new services may be introduced, cally the Institute of Philosophy with the introduction of 200 TV M such as the possibility for passen- of the Jagiellonian University and televisions aboard 50 new Bombar- gers to project greetings sent by the Polish Association of Logic dier NGT6 trams running through- SMS (text message). However, for and Philosophy of Science, have out the city. MPK, safety remains a priority. Con- organised the Sixth European sequently, in addition to the intro- Congress of Analytic Philosophy Already highly advanced in com- duction of high-tech screens, MPK in Krakow, which will take place parison to its predecessors, with has brought out trams with surveil- this month. The Congress will be ticket dispensers, recorded voice lance cameras, which record the ac- held under the honorary auspices announcements and digital screens tivity within the vehicle. of the Speaker of the Sejm of the displaying destinations, the Bom- Republic of Poland, Bronisław Ko- bardier is now also equipped with Monitoring systems have already morowski, and the President of 50 cm-wide LCD panels that com- been put in place aboard buses in Krakow, Jacek Majchrowski. municate traffic alerts as well as Krakow and several other major relevant reports from the police Polish cities. The police have found Between the 21st and 26th of Au- Tram TV makes its debut / photo Adelina Krupski and MPK. An effort to make public that the use of cameras has signifi- gust around 500 philosophers, transport more enjoyable for pas- news headlines provided by the Pol- that the slowdown was only caused cantly improved safety measures, logicians and scientists from sengers, the project cost 2.3 million ish Press Agency. Krakow is the first by tests performed earlier that day as it has helped prevent drinking, around Europe and the U.S. will zloty. city in Poland to set up this kind of and that such delays would not oc- smoking, theft and recklessness on- talk about such topics as how to facility. cur again. board and assisted in the capturing understand and describe human While televisions have been previ- of perpetrators. actions, what kind of formal se- ously installed in Krakow public Despite hindrances on the inaugu- The content of the message is con- mantics we should use to describe transport, they were only found ration day, causing the display of veyed to the TV M dispatcher, who Currently, all text displayed on the natural language, and whether on buses, showing advertisements announcements to take as long as a monitors the signal transfer at the the new TV M screens is in Polish, human evolution is a predictable and promotional films. Now, in ad- quarter of an hour, the system was Novamedia headquarters, located in but this may change in order to in- process, or if mental events exist. dition to communicating public an- built to allow messages to appear Kalisz. The announcement is then clude English-speaking residents These and many more topics will nouncements, the televisions allow on all screens instantly. However, transmitted either through dicta- and tourists, especially as Krakow be divided into such sections as passengers to keep up with current Novamedia Chairman Krzysztof tion over the phone or via any de- continues to improve its facilities “Logic and Computation,” “Phi- events. A news ticker scrolls along Owczarek stated that urgent releas- vice that connects to the Internet, to meet growing expectations and losophy of Language,” and “Phi- on the bottom of the screen, pre- es can be communicated to passen- such as a computer terminal. Using advance as a popular European des- losophy of Science,” to name but senting up-to-date local and global gers at any moment, announcing Universal Mobile Telecommunica- tination. a few.

Visiting professors Andrea Bottani Cracovians Salute the Sun (University of Bergamo), Dorothy Grażyna Zawada Krakow’s Tourist Top 10 Edgington (University of London) In Bednarski Park in the Podgórze district, free yoga classes are being and Zoltan Gendler Szabo (Yale made available for everybody as a University) will present lectures John Walczak part of the “Joga w parku” (“Yoga about “changing things,” “coun- in the Park”) Poland-wide project. terfactual thinking” and “onto- Krakow City Council is proposing shows how to get to them all is in- Krakow’s Top 10 is a four-day trail The idea behind the free yoga class- logical attitude,” respectively. a collection of new tourist routes cluded. from the Royal Route, through es is to promote a healthy, active and natural lifestyle. The project throughout the city. “Visitors to Kra- Wieliczka, Kazimierz and Tyniec. The European Society for Ana- is dedicated to hard-pressed and kow have ever higher expectations, Members of royal dynasties, the The idea was born at a meeting be- overworked city dwellers and it’s lytic Philosophy has existed though they don’t always have time Wawel Dragon, the Lajkonik and tween representatives of the tour- connected with interesting lectures since 1991, when Kevin Mulligan to search by themselves for what John Paul II are amongst those on ist industry, guides and hoteliers on a healthy lifestyle as well as founded it together with other dance workshops. As yoga is a sys- they haven’t yet seen, or for what’s the route dedicated to famous Kra- who suggested what would interest collaborators in the Swiss village tem of exercises suitable for almost worth seeing,” says Katarzyna Gad- kow inhabitants and characters. tourists. “This is the first such list,” everybody and at every age, the of Zinall. From its beginning the ek, director of the Council’s tourism Krakow’s Socialist Realism is a trail says Katarzyna Gadek, “and it was programme of open air yoga is open association has had the goal of office. Amongst the latest routes on for those specifically interested compiled after a heated discussion. to both laymen and experienced helping analytical philosophers gurus of the Eastern arts. offer are Krakow on a Fork, Green in the former Communist era, as The Top 10 list is only valid for this on the continent to meet and ex- Krakow and Krakow’s Top 10. it takes in Nowa Huta Steelworks year, some of the items on it won’t The organiser of the campaign held change knowledge and experience Administration Centre, housing es- change, though some will because not only in Krakow, but in Warsaw, with each other as well as with Up to now Krakow has had nine reg- tates in the Nowa Huta district, the Krakow has lots of contenders for Sopot, Wrocław, Łódź and Toruń, philosophers from Great Britain is Fundacja Biosferis, a non-profit ular tourist trails, which are sign- monastery in Mogila, the Łaznia its Top 10.” and the United States. organization whose main goal is to posted at street level and described Nowa Theatre and more. promote a healthy lifestyle and a in written guides and on the Inter- The Council’s tourism office is holistic approach to health. This month, the Krakow Post in- net. There are the Royal, the Jewish The Krakow Artists Trail provides working on more proposals for terviewed Prof. Jan Woleński, The meetings are held every Sunday Heritage and the Footsteps of John the opportunity to see places and tourist routes. They include trails President of ESAP and Head of in August from 10:30 am until 1:30 Paul II routes, to name a few. objects associated with artists such through Krakow museums, each pm in Bednarski Park, Podgórze the Epistemology Department at as Jan Matejko, Tadeusz Kantor and one having a different theme, en- district, just above Rynek Podgórski Jagiellonian University. The full For the first time there is a guide Józef Mehoffer, whereas Krakow on tertainment and routes for children (accessible by trams 3, 6, 8, 23, 40 interview is published online. and bus 502). The organisers insist to Krakow’s parks and gardens - a Fork 2008 is devoted to the 99 res- and teenagers. These are expected that they will not accept latecom- Green Krakow. This route includes taurants which found themselves sometime during the autumn. ers, as starting off from the middle To read more, visit >> the Botanical Gardens, Wawel Hill, on the City Council’s “Recommend- is not beneficial for the partici- www.krakowpost.com the Planty and others. A map which ed Krakow Restaurants” list. pant’s health. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post August 2008 5 News Krakow

Debate Missile Defense: Shield or Dartboard? Robert Szmigielski is against the missile shield project, while James McNulty defends the defense of Poland.

Wherever George Bush struts, controversy follows. Our favourite chest- “There are no permanent allies, only permanent interests.” Lord Palmerston’s bumping, frat-boy President, who had hoped an agreement would be dictum should be kept in mind by Polish politicians during the debate about reached regarding his missile shield, has been left with a bitter taste in his American plans to install a missile defence system in Eastern Europe. For no A: mouth; a combination of dissent and disobedience being a flavour he is F: matter how much Poland feels herself a part of the newly enlarged Europe, or not accustomed to. Prime Minister Tusk is obviously unaware of unilateral compliance how much she wishes to become a primary American ally, the decision to have the shield to military objectives proposed by the United States, and as such, negotiations for the clearly goes beyond Warsaw’s role in Euro-Atlantic relations. long-debated defense shield have stagnated, and the deal abruptly halted – even with President Kaczyński buzzing around like an irritable fly you just can’t swat. The physical security of a country has always been the primary interest of every state, and thus it should remain the central purpose of every sound policy. That is why the sin- The world’s wealthiest country claims that the deal is primarily concerned with Poland’s gle most important question in the debate is whether the instalment of those American security. A laughable notion from an administration with policies that exclusively follow rockets/interceptors will make Poland more or less secure in contemporary international their own agenda, that still pursues the most disastrous and divisive foreign policy ever relations. Having considered arguments against the missile shield, it remains reasonable implemented by a U.S. government. If Poland’s interests are indeed the priority, why was to claim that there are more pros than cons in Poland’s support of the project. The first Foreign Minister Sikorski’s initial request for an upgrade of Poland’s missile technology reason is simple, if not simplistic. The United States is still the biggest kid on the block and adequate financial aid to strengthen defenses, in exchange for a target being slapped and though its influence has diminished lately (primarily over Iraq), Washington is likely on the country, unequivocally turned down? to play a pre-eminent role on the world stage for several decades to come. This argu- ment does not imply that Poland should be the next American client state, or “another And if the Polish-American relationship really is that special, what of the refusal to ease poodle,” as the French minister once referred to the British prime minister. It just sug- visa constraints, in return for blindly following Bush into Iraq? As Defense Minister Klich gests that jumping on the bandwagon – that is joining the strongest power, has been one correctly observes, the Americans treat Poland more like “a distant cousin” than a seri- of the most popular strategies in the history of homo politicus. In other words, if played ous partner. wisely, Poland’s participation in missile defence might bring Warsaw closer to the U.S. and therefore, to the power centre of contemporary global politics. But let’s say a compromise is reached - in the twilight of Bush’s term, or during a Mc- Cain/Obama presidency. The move would undoubtedly heighten the risk of an attack on Secondly, the reason for Warsaw going for rather than against the concept of missile Polish soil. Al-Qaeda’s Jihadists, already infuriated that Polish soldiers patrol the streets defence concerns the nature of Polish strategic culture and the experience Poland had of Diwaniyah, need no further incentives to carry out a Madrid-style bombing in one of with European allies in the first half of the 20th century. To put it bluntly, Europe failed Poland’s cities. The Russians, swiftly denouncing the plans, declared that missiles would to be Poland’s military ally when the hour of reckoning arrived. The United States obvi- be promptly pointed towards Poland, and the shield would be considered as a legitimate ously did not save Poland from falling into either Hitler’s or the Soviet Union’s dominion, military target. Surely a more effective way to safeguard Poland would be to scrap plans but Washington did in fact not only prevent Western Europe from the lurking brown-red for the shield, pull out the remaining troops in Iraq, and concentrate on mending diplo- disaster – a fact that present anti-Americans hate to admit - but it established its military matic ties damaged by the impotent Kaczyński bros. leadership? superiority worldwide for years to come. Of course this is a very one-sided picture, but at the same time this is the picture of the U.S. that many Poles love to have before their Jumping into bed with the most unpopular American president in history with a few eyes. This historical experience explains some of Poland’s foreign policy manoeuvres. If months left in office is akin to walking over a minefield. What if Tusk was to submit to Europe today had the means to defend itself against any serious threat, Warsaw would his demands, and the victor of the U.S. presidential run-off in November re-assessed probably dismiss the idea of having any part of the missile shield on Polish soil. America’s foreign policy and decided to abandon the missile shield plans? Poland would have succeeded only in antagonising the Russians, provoking others, and, equipped with Yet the case for an agreement does not indicate that Poland has or should have an anti- archaic military technology, left to bear the consequences that collaboration with Bush European Union attitude. Indeed, by now there is little doubt on both sides of the Atlan- entails - while he suns himself on a tropical island with his pal Tony. tic that Poles have become more pro-European than pro-American. Besides, the missile shield – if it is to be created with the cooperation of NATO’s European countries - might Then of course, there’s Iran – which, according to Bush, is what this saga is all about. be another (final?) wake-up call for those European nations which share the equally In rhetoric similar to that prior to the invasion of Iraq, Bush claims that Iran poses an post-modern and naïve belief that war and military instruments of foreign policy can imminent threat with its nuclear enrichment programme, despite the numerous denials be dispatched to the dustbin of history. It doesn’t take a strategist to figure out that if from President Ahmadinejad, and UN watchdog visits reporting that bomb-development the EU is ever to become a force to be reckoned with on the global stage, Brussels needs is many years away. Of course, assurances from a president who wants Israel wiped off to create and implement policy that provides its member countries with a fundamental the map must be taken lightly, but so should words from a president who led an entire sense of security. nation, and her allies, to war based on blatant lies. Nevertheless, this is not Poland’s fight to pick. What is more, a project aimed at establishing elements of the United States’ missile defence system in Poland may provide Poland with a perfect strategic balance: on the The bottom line is: should Poland compromise her safety just to appease a trigger-happy one hand, the shield will be a small reminder to Russia that the times when Poland was president who, in a final act of aggression, may decide to launch another misguided seen in Moscow as a satellite are gone for good. It can also be used as a reviving point for assault in the Middle East? The answer is obvious, and the consequences potentially Polish-American relations, which have recently suffered from numerous misperceptions disastrous. Regardless, it’s time for Poland to step out of America’s shadow, and show in Washington and Warsaw. Last but definitely not least, a missile defence shield built that this country is no longer a docile sheep from an incompetently-led flock, but a na- on Polish soil might send a message stating that Poland has just gained an extra security tion capable of making bold and independent decisions; especially if the country is to be guarantee. Although Article 5 of the Washington Treaty states clearly that Poland is se- taken seriously in Europe. And with Donald Tusk at the helm Poles should be proud that cured by a collective defensive agreement, the bilateral agreement between Warsaw and they finally have a Prime Minister that refuses to be bullied and intimidated - let’s just Washington would doubtlessly reassure some of the greatest sceptics in Poland. In the hope it continues. era of incoming geopolitical change in international dynamics, this might be just what Poland needs.

JAGIELLONIAN UNIVERSITY POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS: The School of Polish Language & Culture

I. WINTER WITH POLISH LANGUAGE III. SUMMER WITH POLISH LANGUAGE Two 40-hour courses in Polish (following end of Summer School) in February and March 50-hour course in Polish in August www.uj.edu.pl/SL e-mail: [email protected] II. SPRING WITH POLISH LANGUAGE IV. FALL WITH POLISH LANGUAGE 40-hour course in Polish in June Two 50-hour courses in Polish in September tel. +48 (12) 421 36 92 6 Krakow Post August 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Poland

Bronis aw Geremek: 1932 - 2008 Polish Bus Crashes in Serbia ł Justyna Krzywicka

On the 11th of July a double-decker A reflection on the life of the Solidarity hero, who died in a car accident near coach carrying Polish tourists crashed in Nowy Tomyśl on the 13th of July at the age of 76 northern Serbia, killing six, two of them children. 40 passengers were injured, Szymon Urbański with twelve left in critical condition. Both drivers survived. Among the 68 passengers, 34 were children returning from “De mortuis nil nisi bonum” – ment culminating in 1968, when a holiday in Bulgaria. “Speak no ill of the dead” Soviet and Eastern Bloc troops in- vaded Czechoslovakia. In protest The vehicle was on a stretch of highway The above dictum tends to prompt he withdrew from the Party, and close to Subotica, near the Hungarian obituarists to write in a saccha- became increasingly involved in boarder, when it turned over. Most of the rine tone and exaggerate the anti-communist activity. victims of the accident were transported deeds of the deceased. But let’s to a hospital in the city of Novi Sad, whilst just read the names of the people This bearded, pipe-smoking aca- others were taken to Belgrade. The am- who sent their condolences to demic was disliked by many for bassador for Poland, Maciej Szymanski, the Polish government after the his dry, paternalistic tone. As a made his way to Novi Sad, where he was sudden death of Bronisław Gere- prominent democratic opposition- joined by Serbian delegates. The Polish mek. Among them were: Nicolas ist he was constantly ridiculed government quickly responded by send- Sarkozy, the president of France, by the communist press, being ing a state plane to transport the victims’ Hans-Gert Pottering, the president referred to as a “professor of me- family members to Serbia. On the return of the European Parliament, José dieval France’s social dregs and journey, the aircraft transported some of Manuel Barroso, the president of prostitutes.” However, a thorough the injured back to hospitals in Poland. the European Commission, Vaclav knowledge of the social dregs Havel, the former president of the and prostitutes’ morals and cus- It is still unclear whether the coach had Czech Republic, the Italian presi- toms proved to be quite useful mechanical problems or whether the ac- dent... the list goes on. while reading the venomous texts cident was caused by human error. Gaze- of martial law propagandists in ta Wyborcza reports that the prosecu- They all honour Bronisław Gere- 1981, as one of his friends aptly tor’s office in Bielsko-Biała is handling the mek, a Holocaust survivor, a his- remarked. case, which will decide where the driver torian of medieval France, an an- may be charged for negligently causing an ti-communist activist, one of the Strangely enough, today, Gere- accident resulting in death.The accident founders of the Solidarity move- mek’s most zealous political op- marked the first in what has become a ment in 1980, an architect of the ponents are his former Solidarity yearly spate of holiday bus accidents dur- peaceful Polish revolution of 1989, companions, including the Polish ing the summer season. Two weeks after / photo Andrzej Barabasz which precipitated the fall of the president. However, this is quite the crash in Serbia, a Polish bus veered Berlin Wall, the Foreign Minister customary in Poland’s polarised and artists alike, all aware of their in exile in the West. Those who re- into a ditch off a highway in Italy near at the time Poland joined NATO, a political scene, where minor ani- civic duties, working for the coun- turned were persecuted, arrested Venice. 14 people were injured. The bus true statesman, a member of the mosities have turned into fierce try, devoted to the dissemination and often executed as spies. driver had fallen asleep behind the wheel European Parliament and a strong hatred, and formerly united op- of culture. These people formed in the early hours of the morning. advocate of the Polish cause. positionists have become life-long the backbone of the Second Pol- Some of the remnants of the deci- enemies, enamoured of commu- ish Republic after Poland regained mated pre-war intelligentsia tried Well, it’s edifying to remember nist defamation methods. It is not independence in 1918. World War to survive on the wrong side of an Poland’s Shipyard Saga Continues that he was not an unblemished uncommon to hear theories spread II proved to be disastrous for the Iron Curtain, still doing their best Ewa Spohn knight in his early political career. by the extreme political right and elite of the Polish nation. The to oppose the system. These gen- Like many fellow students in the certain Church circles stating that well-known Soviet massacre of tle, educated men and women of Poland has been granted a reprieve by early 1950s, he was naively lured Geremek was a key figure in an an- Poles at Katyń was mirrored by a culture were totally ill-fitted to the the European Commission and now has a by the communist ideas of social cient universal Judeo-Freemasonic parallel extermination of the in- boorish and rustic reality of the new deadline of the 12th of September equality and justice, and he en- conspiracy to destroy Poland, the telligentsia carried out by the Na- People’s Republic of Poland, where for submitting plans to restructure the tered the Communist Party. This last stand of Catholicism in a secu- zis. Thousands more perished on the only officially acceptable form Baltic shipyards or face having to return clearly helped him in complet- larised Europe. Well, the less said all fronts of the war. The best of of a citizen was a spawn of an al- five billion złoty of illegal state aid. ing his postgraduate studies in about that the better. the younger generation, including liance of workers and peasants. As Paris, since obtaining a passport students and schoolchildren, died professors, doctors, and lawyers The Polish government’s struggle to meet back then was close to miracu- Whatever he deserves credit for, in the Warsaw Uprising of 1944. they assisted, advised and helped the “final” deadline of 26th June proved lous. However, Geremek’s high Geremek was a representative of When the Soviets took control of defend protesting work- to be in vain when the EC Competition hopes for a “civilised socialism” the intelligentsia; that unique class Poland and the rest of Eastern Eu- ers following the tragic >> 7 Commissioner stated that the plans she quickly faded, his disappoint- of educated people, professionals rope, many Poles decided to stay events in Poznań in 1956, received, the culmination of four years of efforts to work with the Polish government to find a positive solution for creating sustainable jobs and securing the +RAKOWAPARTMENTS long-term profitability of the shipyards without state aid, do not achieve that objective. Now Prime Minister Donald INTHEOLDTOWN Tusk has a packed schedule of meetings with potential investors, some of whom have been in the running for a while, and TEL others who have only come forward recently, from as far afield as Abu Dhabi, INFO KRAKOW APARTMENTSCOM Norway and India. Whether a viable deal can be struck by the deadline remains to be seen. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post August 2008 7 News Poland

Charges Made in Restitution Resolution? << Continued from 6 Katowice Roof U.S. Government urges Poland to adopt restitution then in 1970, 1976 and 1980. Collapse The late Jacek Kuroń, Gere- mek’s friend and the future Ewa Spohn Minister of Labour and So- Danuta Filipowicz cial Policy, used to say with reason: “Do not set the Party The United States wants Poland years ago, the cost to the Pol- headquarters on fire; organ- Twelve people have been charged in to “immediately enact” legisla- ish budget would have been ise your own ones.” This ap- connection with the biggest construction on the complex issue of “Although lower, and added that there proach is best described by tion catastrophe in Poland. After a restitution of property confis- is no expectation that 100 an old joke: “What is the dif- two-and-a-half-year investigation in cated by the Germans and com- this won’t percent or even 50 percent of ference between the working connection with the Katowice Trade munists during and after World fully satisfy the property’s value will be re- class and the intelligentsia? Hall roof collapse, two designers, a War II. The U.S. House of Repre- turned. The workers cry: ‘We want building inspector, two members of sentatives’ Committee on For- the property bread!’; the intellectuals ask: the building’s governing board and eign Affairs endorsed a resolu- Donald Tusk’s team has been ‘Would you please pass the seven others were charged. A faulty tion to this effect on 16th July owners, it drawing up a restitution bill bread roll?’” roof design caused the hall’s roof to after being lobbied through by is clear that that will be ready by Septem- collapse under heavy snow in January American Jewish organisations. ber and should be submit- If Lech Wałęsa and other 2006, according to Marzena Matysik- it will be ted to Parliament in October. strike leaders at the Gdańsk Folga, a spokeswoman for prosecutors The congressmen want to see impossible It is thought that it does not shipyard were the heart of in Katowice. an “unbureaucratic, simple, foresee the return of actual the Solidarity movement, transparent and timely” process for Poland property but the payment of Geremek, Kuroń and Mazow- At that time Poland was experiencing that will benefit the now elderly a proportion (thought to be 20 iecki constituted its brain. extremely cold weather with heavy former owners of property, art- to fund this percent) of its value. It will ap- snow. On January 28th, 2006, the work and shares through the sum of mon- ply to property taken between There are but a few of this trade hall was hosting the 56th Na- prompt and fair return of prop- 1944-1962 and to all who held dying breed still active in tional Exhibition of Carrier Pigeons, erty, or the payment of compen- ey from its Polish citizenship at that mo- Poland’s political life these with exhibitors from all over Europe. sation. Although the resolution budget when ment. Although this won’t fully days, most of them, like There were roughly 500 people in the mentions Lithuania, Poland is satisfy the property owners, it Geremek, well into their sev- hall just before the collapse. 65 died, noted as virtually alone among it has so is clear that it will be impossi- enties. Today, widespread including eight foreign tourists from post-communist countries in ble for Poland to fund this sum higher education has given Belgium, Germany, the Netherlands, having failed to enact restitu- many other of money from its budget when rise to quantity rather than Slovakia and the Czech Republic, and tion legislation. urgent social it has so many other urgent so- quality, with university almost 150 people were injured. cial needs to resolve. Any so- graduates of no intellectual Poland is the world leader in needs to re- lution must take into account background whatsoever, According to the investigation, this the number of potential restitu- solve. Poland’s fiscal reality as well lacking basic knowledge at catastrophe occurred because of de- tion claims, with an estimated ” as the sentiment of the Polish even primary school level, sign and construction errors, as well value today of 60-100 billion population, which doesn’t un- especially of contemporary as due to negligence by the building’s złoty for property appropriated derstand why today’s genera- history. A quick look at the owners. Two designers of the build- by the Germans during the war, The U.S. has been pressing the tions have to bear the costs of churlish rabble occupying ing, Szczepan K. and Jacek J., face the or the communists afterwards. Polish government on this sub- German occupation and com- the Polish Parliament, as most serious charges of directly en- The situation is not helped by ject for two decades, and the munist lawlessness. well as a youth which de- dangering people’s lives. If convicted, the lack of reliable data on how congressmen on the commit- tests politics, leaves doubts they face up to 12 years in prison, many people were affected, as tee told Poland’s daily Gazeta The US Senate’s foreign af- about the shape of things to Matysik-Folga said. both passed a prolific amount Wyborcza that despite heavy fairs committee will vote on a come in this country. of legislation that removed voter pressure, the resolution similar resolution shortly and Bruce R. and Ryszard Z., members of property rights and many re- could have been much firmer. if passed, the two resolutions the board, and seven other people cords were destroyed during The congressmen’s advisor will become the U.S. Congress’ were charged with failing to fulfil the war. pointed out that had the reso- official position, but will not their responsibilities. Bruce and Rys- lution been adopted even 10 result in any more actions be- zard knew that the roof was damaged, ing taken towards Poland. however they allowed the fair to take place. If convicted, all of them face up to eight years.

Maria K., county building inspector, faces lesser charges of up to three WANTED: years in prison because of not ful- PROFESSIONAL SALES PEOPLE filling her duties and unintentionally allowing the catastrophe to occur. In Are you an energetic, enthusiastic and self-motivated sales dynamo? 2002, Maria K. was informed by the lo- How do you feel about working for Warsaw’s leading internet guide? cal fire department about bending in Warsaw-life.com is looking for professional sales people to join its the roof’s structure, but she neglected constantly growing team. to inspect the building’s condition and

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If you’re fluent in Polish, live in Warsaw and love it with a passion, then send your CV with a covering letter to Michał McSperrin-Kossak at: [email protected] 8 Krakow Post August 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Poland

Katyń Massacre Not to be Investigated Sermons For The 21st Century Grażyna Zawada Russian courts block Katyń claims

To better address believers, Francis- Justyna Krzywicka can friars have begun broadcasting brief and to-the-point sermons on the website YouTube.com, answer- ing youngsters’ questions on faith. The friars had launched a website (franciszkanie.net) before they started a cycle of programmes broadcast on YouTube. “Bez slo- ganu” (“No Slogan”) is a five-minute film sermon where fathers Jakub Waszkowiak and Leonard Bielecki answer questions sent to them by their audience - mainly teenagers who are afraid to ask in person and who are confused by Catholic teach- ings when confronted with the reality that they know. As the friars de- clare, they want to show that their life is not composed of elevated language clichés and slogans, but it is based on certain values that they revere. They say they broadcast simple-language, plain messages for a Godly purpose.

A new episode is uploaded every Thursday on YouTube, after the fathers realised the potential of internet broadcasting and decided to use it for a noble cause. The topics are God, faith, love and also recently controversial subject in the church, such as homosexuality.

The programme is recorded with an ordinary digital video camera in the convent rooms in Poznan, without any specialised crew or extra equipment. They don’t make cuts or prepare a scenario - everything The massacre is remembered at the Katyń memorial in Krakow, April 2008 / photo Anna Spysz is recorded live. All that is needed n July 5th the Mos- sian state. The judge in the first The Poles were executed at opments, Poland’s government is a priest (or in this case two) who cow Municipal Court hearing ruled that compensa- several locations in the former has been urged by families and can speak clearly, plainly, frankly upheld the decision tion was only available directly Soviet Union. To this day, over politicians to step in and appeal and without any slogans. The short Oof a regional court to the victims themselves. After 3,400 victims have yet to be to Russian authorities directly. messages are intended to reach refusing an inquiry into the the unsound ruling, the matter identified, although recent re- President Lech Kaczyński has youngsters who are reluctant to at- criminal investigation of the was transferred to the Moscow search suggests that they were compared the massacre to an tend Sunday masses, and are more Katyń massacre. Ten families Municipal Court, where the buried at Bykivnia in what is act of genocide, although Rus- likely to spend their time surfing the of the victims had appealed to judge again ruled against the now Ukraine. sia officially denied this charge, Internet. the Municipal Court to have the claimants. The families are now following an official military in- matter re-opened. The NKVD appealing to the Military Tribu- The crime has gained immense vestigation in 2005. The fathers are happy with the posi- (Soviet Secret Police), acting on nal for a hearing. coverage in the media in recent tive feedback they have received Stalin’s orders, was responsible months, largely owing to a new Russia’s Chief Military Prosecu- and hope that, with God’s help, the for the 1940 execution of Pol- In 1990, Mikhail Gorbachev film by veteran filmmaker An- tor Alexander Savenkov told a programme reaches a wider and ish officers and members of the was the first to make an official drzej Wajda. The 83-year-old press conference in April 2005 wider audience. intelligentsia. admission that the NKVD had director, whose own father was that “the version of genocide been responsible for the Katyń amongst the victims, won his was examined, and it is my firm The victims’ families’ Russian massacre. For decades the Sovi- fourth Oscar nomination for conviction that there is abso- lawyer Anna Stavicka is ada- et government had blamed Nazi Katyń, which gained over 3 mil- lutely no basis to talk about mant that the descendents may Germany for the executions, as lion viewers in Poland alone. this in judicial terms.” Handing still have strong grounds for a the mass graves had been un- The film has yet to secure a over 63 files to Polish authori- further appeal to the Regional covered by Nazi troops in west- general release in Russia, al- ties, he withheld the remaining Military Tribunal. ern Russia, following Hitler’s though Katyń was given two 116 on the grounds that they advance against Stalin. private screenings in Moscow contained “state secrets.” To The relatives of the officers are this March. this day, no one has been put also claiming victims’ family Some 22,000 names make up on trial for the crime. compensation from the Rus- the four so-called Katyń lists. With regards to recent devel- www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post August 2008 9 Opinion Starstruck Knives Out for the Poles by Soren Gauger by Robert Szmigielski

n the Main Market music ourselves, we can only sup- n what appears to be a clear case of head-in- veyors of hysteria and town-criers of xenophobia, Square, right at the pose this has a certain logic to it; sanditis, British Chief Constable for Cam- who, with their severely biased coverage of an im- corner where it meets we must assume that these are bridgeshire Julie Spence, claims that it is in- migrant population, portray them to be the catalyst OSzczepańska Street, not the sort of people whose mu- Igrained in Poland’s culture to carry knives, for unemployment, benefit fraud and rising crime. there is a building that bears a sical tastes we inquire into, grey and, in talk reminiscent of Orwell’s authoritar- marble plaque: “Here lived Goethe and subterranean folk who work ian government in 1984, she also declares that But why stop there? The UK’s soaring teenage preg- from 5-7 September, 1790.” The all day in office buildings, then Britain must “educate” the immigrant Polish nancies, binge-drinking problem (which we here in plaque tells us less about the life retire quickly home to recline in population on how to behave when on the Isles. Krakow are fortunate of experiencing first-hand most of the great German poet than it an easy chair and listen to music weekends) – even England’s failure to qualify for Euro does about Krakow’s specific pro- that numbs the cells of their mind. In the statement, made in early June, Mrs. Spen- 2008 – surely all this is the immigrants’ fault too? vincialism – for if Goethe’s three- ce said: “We have had the Iraqi Kurds who carry day arrival was enough of an oc- On the occasion of Czesław knives and the Poles and the Lithuanians who carry I digress. No nation is perfect. Poland has its own casion to merit a marble plaque, Miłosz’s demise, there were many knives. If it is normal to carry them where you come problems: an astonishing number of fatal road ac- we must unfortunately conclude voices saying that the wise old from, you need to educate them pretty quickly.” cidents, a communist witch-hunt Senator McCarthy that this city did not have so very Nobel-prize winning poet should would have been proud of, and a bickering govern- many earth-shattering events to be laid to rest in the Wawel Cathe- Indeed, the United Kingdom seems to have a problem. ment that can’t even agree on the Sejm’s canteen commemorate in the 18th century. dral. This immediately sparked Police in England and Wales recorded 22,151 incidents menu - but to point the finger of blame on Poles a national debate, with speakers involving knives (250 fatal) during 2007. Last month, for a knife-culture caused by Britain’s own govern- Lord only knows, then, what our arguing with equal passion from during a day of madness, 6 people were stabbed to mental failures and neglect of their youth is unac- children and grandchildren will either side that Wawel, the pa- death in unconnected attacks around England, and ceptable, bordering on incitement to racial hatred. make of the star laid down at the triotic heart of the nation, was only last week an 18-year-old boy was the 21st teen- foot of Wawel Castle this summer or was not the most appropri- ager to die on London’s streets - where a total of 54 Ultimately, it is a reckless statement that en- to celebrate the arrival of medio- ate place for Miłosz’s remains. people have been stabbed to death so far this year. dangers the lives of thousands of Poles, and cre Canadian pop phenomenon Eventually those who stated that will encourage small pockets of nationalist, rac- Celine Dion. Neither musically Miłosz was not a representative Strange thing is, none of the latest tragic incidents in- ist thugs to take to the streets of Britain with the compelling, nor groundbreak- of the same brand of patrio- volved a person of Polish origin - and if they have, no aim of carrying out their own style of “educating.” ing in any way, nor physically tism as the other poets buried doubt the tabloids would have screamed it from the remarkable, nor charismatic, there (Mickiewicz, Słowacki, Nor- rooftops. Maybe Brits are stabbing each other, frus- In a recent interview with TVN24, Chief Constable Dion has now for decades been wid) won out, and the poet was trated at the amount of immigrants in the country... Spence, whilst stopping short of an apology, said making a career of peddling the brought to the church at Skałka. that she didn’t mean to offend the Polish community, blandest kind of sentimental A small handful of Poles probably do carry blades (one claiming her words were taken “out of context.” Her melodies for listeners with the That absolutely no discussion would be naïve to think otherwise), as do idiots native protestations fall on deaf ears; an experienced and lowest expectations from music. was raised over Dion’s tribute at to the British Isles, and those from other countries shrewd handler of the press, Spence should be aware Wawel at first seems a cruel in- that make up the UK’s rich cultural tapestry - and it of the ammunition her ignorant remarks would pro- For even in the barren wasteland justice. But then, under closer should not be tolerated. But, to focus on the Poles is vide for a manipulative and savage right-wing press. of radio pop music, Dion’s songs observation, it seems entirely scandalous, and shifting the blame to an easy target. distinguish themselves with their apt. Standing for nothing but the As such, Julie Spence should be disciplined by her utter lack of colour. Who among most brainless of entertainment, Outrageous comments such as Constable Spen- superiors, forced to issue a public apology, and be us, even straining his or her Dion represents a kind of artistic ce’s do nothing but add fuel to a fire elaborate- held to account for any reprisals that the UK’s Pol- memory to its very limits, could black hole around which no intel- ly constructed by convenient toilet roll substi- ish community may encounter as a consequence. remember the melody of a Celine ligent discussion could possibly tutes such as the The Sun and The Daily Mail; Dion hit? Who among us, more- circulate; a persona that could the latter lauding Spence as “an officer pre- over, would take the time to make only be met with an indifferent, if pared to confront uncomfortable home truths.” the effort? If we have never met scornful, shrug of the shoulders. a true enthusiast of Celine Dion’s An unsurprising conclusion coming from the pur- krakow-tours.com INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS Kdl[_bj^[]êijie\j^[EbZ@[m_i^:_ijh_Yj STUDIES IN ENGLISH A ROUTE TO AN INTERNATIONAL CAREER ;nfbeh[9ecckd_ic_dDemW>kjW Join us at the Tischner European University – citizens, perfectly prepared to compete in a young and dynamic higher education the European labour market. Apart from the institution, serving the needs of both Polish Polish study programmes, we offer a rich JWa[WZWojh_fje7kiY^m_jp and international students. We aim to and innovative full time studies in English in educate active, self-confident, open-minded the field of International Relations.

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WAWEL TO ŚW. GERTRUDY CASTLE WOLSKI DIETLA SKOTNIKI WOODS, 7.5km Benedictine TYNIECKA Kazimierz KRYSPINÓW, 12.5km RIVER VISTULA (WISŁA) TO *Monastery KRAKOWSKA G. HERLINGA-GRUDZIŃSKIEGONOWA

ŚLUSARSKA MOST GRUNWALDZKI To Schindler NAZJEŹDZIE Factory HUTA, 7km TYNIEC

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TO Factory Fort (Skotniki North) SOLNA 1.CENTRAL ROUTES LIPOWA IN AND AROUND There are plenty of paths within TYNIEC, 13km 0 0.5 1km Apteka Fort (Skotniki South) BULWAR KURLANDZKI Pod Orłem * Museum the very heart of Krakow, includ- Podgórze KRAKOW DĄBROWSKIEGO LEGIONÓW TO MARIIKONOPNICKIEJ PIŁSUDSKIEGO * ing the scenic paved paths along MOST RETMAŃSKI ROLLEGO SOKOLSKA LUDWINOWSKA T. REJTANA TURECKA ZATORSKA PLAC both sides of the Vistula. NIEPODLEGŁOŚCI ZAKRZÓWEK WILGA DŁUGOSZA PLAC EMILIA SERKOWSKIEGOKALWARYJSKA St Joseph’s Church PRZEDWIOŚNIE SWOBODA ZAMOYSKIEGO TO RESERVOIR, 4.5km SPISKA

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KUTRZEBY KRZEMIONKI PODGÓRZE, 3km ORAWSKA F 4

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Tenczyn •Bike Tours Castle Cruising Krakow, ul. Basztowa 17, Tel: +48 (0) 514556017, www.cruisingkrakow.com KRAKÓW Krakow Bike Tours, ALWERNIA CHEŁM Tel: +48 (0) 663731515, www.krakowbiketour.com Trzebinia BŁONIA Krzeszowice •Bike Hire KRYSPINÓW Cruising Krakow, ul. Basztowa 17, Zabierzów 0 1 2km Tel: +48 (0) 514556017, www.cruisingkrakow.com Rent A Bike TYNIEC Tel: +48 (0) 888029792, www.rentabike.pl Nowa Huta KRAKÓW Alwernia Kryspinów Niepolomice

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WAWEL TO ŚW. GERTRUDY CASTLE WOLSKI DIETLA SKOTNIKI WOODS, 7.5km Benedictine TYNIECKA Kazimierz KRYSPINÓW, 12.5km RIVER VISTULA (WISŁA) TO *Monastery KRAKOWSKA G. HERLINGA-GRUDZIŃSKIEGONOWA

ŚLUSARSKA MOST GRUNWALDZKI To Schindler NAZJEŹDZIE Factory HUTA, 7km TYNIEC

Schindler’s

TO Factory Fort (Skotniki North) SOLNA LIPOWA TYNIEC, 13km IN AND AROUND 0 0.5 1km Apteka Fort (Skotniki South) BULWAR KURLANDZKI Pod Orłem * Museum Podgórze KRAKOW DĄBROWSKIEGO LEGIONÓW TO MARIIKONOPNICKIEJ PIŁSUDSKIEGO * MOST RETMAŃSKI ROLLEGO SOKOLSKA LUDWINOWSKA T. REJTANA TURECKA ZATORSKA PLAC NIEPODLEGŁOŚCI ZAKRZÓWEK WILGA DŁUGOSZA PLAC EMILIA SERKOWSKIEGOKALWARYJSKA St Joseph’s Church PRZEDWIOŚNIE SWOBODA ZAMOYSKIEGO TO RESERVOIR, 4.5km SPISKA

SZAFLARSKA CZACKIEGO

KUTRZEBY KRZEMIONKI PODGÓRZE, 3km ORAWSKA F 4 J. ZAMOYSKIEGO 4.KRAKOW-LAS WOLSKI-KRYSPINÓW-TYNIEC Starting in Krakow’s Salwator district, you’ll bike through two of Krakow’s six mounds and the massive Wolski Woods, Arka Pana which has its own network of trails worth exploring as well (Lord’s Ark) 2 Church as the Krakow Zoo. Heading west you can make a stop to cool off at Krakow’s only proper beach at the man-made Kryspinów Reservoir, before cycling across the river to the Aviation historic village of Tyniec, site of the amazing Benedictine Museum NOWA HUTA Abbey on the Vistula River. al. Jana Pawła II the amber trail

DĄBIE STARE meadow KRAKOW POST interviews Mike from Cruising Krakow MIASTO al. Pokoju Cistercian Abbey GRZEGÓRZKI KP: How do you rate the bicycle as a form of transport in Krakow? RYNEK Botanical Gardens Mike: I think the size of Krakow is ideal for biking. It doesn’t matter where you live in Krakow, it’s not too far to get into the centre of the ul.Grzegórzecka Nowahucka city. KP: What about the standards of bike paths in the city? Mike: Some of them are good, but if they are good then it’s limited – you’ve got 200-400 metres of WAWEL the amber trail continuous nice asphalt, segregated bike path and then you’ve got to join up with the road. CASTLE KP: When on the roads, are drivers generally considerate of cyclists? KAZIMIERZ Mike: I wouldn’t say so. Not at all. Taxis like to cut you off, buses as well. I had a bus cut me off on the Church on the Rock bridge - it was terrible, he could have killed me. Because it was an accordion bus, once he (Pauline Church) 0 1m 2 km manoeuvred across then the tail of the bus came in and squeezed me against the railing. So I wouldn’t PODGÓRZE say they’re considerate at all. But not to discourage you! KP: What would be your advice for someone who’s maybe not that comfortable on a bike, or is new to PLASZÓW Krakow, and doesn’t know the roads so well? Mike: Well firstly to get a hold of a bike map. There’s a free bike map published by the city with bike paths TRZEBINA on it. Plus you can bike anywhere in the Old Town and you don’t have to worry about traffic, just people. KP: After three years are you still enjoying giving the tours? 3 Mike: Well the bike tours take the same route obviously, and the information a lot of the time is the same, but you’re taking different people KRZESZOWICE round all the time so it’s always a little bit different – it’s always nice to be outside. KP: Sometimes a strong breeze can inject a new dimension to the tour, right? Mike: On one occasion yes. We were cycling along the river and we stopped across the river from the Hotel Forum, right underneath the Church on the Rock, and I was giving my little spiel. In fact I had just finished saying that you shouldn’t swim in the river because you can get a ticket TENCZYŃSKI LANDSCAPE PARK - and come out with a tail – when a gust of wind pushed one of the bikes into the river. As I wasn’t sure how deep it was I quickly threw everything out of pockets and jumped in after the bike, thinking that I was Tenczyn •Bike Tours about to lose it. But it turned out that river was no more than about a metre and a half deep, so there was Castle Cruising Krakow, ul. Basztowa 17, no need to rush. It was a nice treat for the ladies. Tel: +48 (0) 514556017, www.cruisingkrakow.com KP: Tell me about the country tour. KRAKÓW Krakow Bike Tours, ALWERNIA Mike: Because Krakow is in a valley, surrounded by countryside, you don’t have to travel very far - 25 CHEŁM Tel: +48 (0) 663731515, www.krakowbiketour.com minutes or half an hour on this tour – before you feel like you’re in the middle of nowhere. The tour Trzebinia BŁONIA takes you along the river, along a nice and flat, brand new bike path. Obviously there’s less stop- Krzeszowice •Bike Hire ping and less places of historical significance, but the final destination is a Benedictine monastery, KRYSPINÓW Cruising Krakow, ul. Basztowa 17, and you get a chance to go inside the monastery and see the monks singing. Coming back we take a Zabierzów 0 1 2km Tel: +48 (0) 514556017, www.cruisingkrakow.com different route, a little more difficult, and see a bit of Polish forest and get to see some cool Austrian Rent A Bike fortresses. Just before we finish we get the chance to see the Twardowski cliffs and see the sun set TYNIEC Tel: +48 (0) 888029792, www.rentabike.pl over the city. Nowa Huta KRAKÓW Alwernia Kryspinów Niepolomice

Tyniec Trzebinia Krzeszowice

Zabierzów

Nowa Huta KRAKÓW Alwernia Kryspinów Niepolomice

Tyniec 12 Krakow Post August 2008 www.krakowpost.com Health & Technology

Polish Doctors Develop New Cancer Therapy

Grażyna Zawada

olish scientists of the environment on can- cancer and 70% of markers for last on a list of 31 countries from the Pomorska cer development has been melanoma. Although the Polish discovery with advanced cancer treat- Akademia Medyczna abolished. According to Prof. is not a cure for cancer, simi- ment facilities. The differ- P(Pomeranian Medical Lubinski, a cancer develops The results of the test are so- lar discoveries are expected to ences come from diagnostic Academy) in Szczecin, led by if favourable environmental cially beneficial as it is possi- follow and, as Lubinski says, possibilities, resulting from Professor Jan Lubiński and conditions occur and if one ble that in the near future any- in some time we may know 20, expenditure on the latest med- Cezary Cybulski, PhD, have is genetically predestined to body undergoing the tests will 50 or even 100 similar cancer- ical technologies. Although discovered a revolutionary have one. be able to learn whether he or ous gene mutations, which will 250 million zloty is spent eve- method of defining what type she is among those who are allow scientists to work out an ry year in Poland on fighting of cancer a patient is prone to. A group of 4,008 patients with vulnerable to certain tumours, overall test for tumour vulner- cancer, the level of treatment These tests can be performed different forms of cancer was even without any family his- ability. The professor hopes for breast or ovarian cancer on anybody who wants to compared with a group of tory of cancer. Moreover, it that Polish pioneer tests of is similar to that observed in check one’s vulnerability to 4,000 healthy people from dif- has been discovered that the CHEK2 will play a leading role Holland 40 years ago. Patients cancer. ferent cities in Poland. In the more effective method of de- in these advances. have low awareness of cancer Polish population, which is tecting breast cancer is mag- risks and rarely perform peri- The team found a defect in hu- relatively homogenous, three netic resonance, rather than First attempts to have the dis- odical tests, meaning that they man genes that is character- abnormalities were found in mammography. Thirdly, the covery patented in the USA are often diagnosed when it’s istic for many tumors, which CHEK2. Moreover, it turned specialists have discovered have already been made. A already too late. Often health could not have been found be- out that each of these abnor- a link between breast cancer detailed report about Polish programmes funded by the fore using other methods, e.g. malities occurred two to five and ovarian cancer amongst research has been published government are poorly organ- analysing families prone to times more often in cancer pa- women with changed genes. in the American Journal of Hu- ised and unavailable outside cancer. The culprit is CHEK2, tients than in healthy people. As it is widely known, the man Genetics, 2004, 75: 1131- of working hours – and so goes a gene that is responsible for The experts have discovered sooner the cancer is located, 1135. the vicious circle. However, DNA repair, done automati- and developed “markers,” i.e. the bigger the chances for the overall the situation in Poland cally before a cell divides. gene change types that we patient’s recovery. Unfortunately, Prof Lubinski’s has been steadily improving However, if CHEK2 is dam- inherit when CHECK2 fails to clinic is rather an exception in the last few years, and re- aged itself, the cell would not repair DNA before a human Currently the scientists from when it comes to the general cently Poland was found on a “notice” its own damage and foetus is created. Until now, the Pomeranian Medical Acad- situation of cancer treatment list of countries observing the would divide as damaged, markers have been catalogued emy are close to finishing an in Poland. According to Lancet biggest increase of cancer sur- thus increasing the risk of de- for almost all types of breast innovative three-year test Oncology, Polish citizens have vivors. veloping a tumour further on. cancer, 80% of markers for concerning the impact of se- half the chances of recovering Hence a previously favoured large intestine cancer, 50% lenium on diminishing the tu- from cancer as citizens of the theory of exclusive influence of markers for prostate gland mour incidence rate. U.S. or Japan, and appeared

Blogosphere Krakow’s Royal Piss Christ Artur Rosman, The Other Journal

alking around the Planty Park in Does it make a difference that on second Krakow last week I noticed some- sight he resembled Christ as Ecce Homo more one using the Venus Victrix pose than the Venus Victrix? Who cares about the & & W on the steps of the exclusive Hotel theoretical realisation that Christianity is Royal: head propped up on hand, luckily no more sensitive to these issues than Roman, Krakow exposed bosom (it was a man), apple appar- Greek and all other religions? You just feel ently already eaten. Thanks to my extensive helpless. For Christ plays in ten thousand use of computers my eyesight has suffered. places! But in a puddle of urine? Good luck From a distance I thought, “Damn, these tour- getting the yellow of that image washed from Apartments ists get more and more creative with their your memory. poses. I should compliment that guy for his cultural literacy.” The reaction of art critic Sister Wendy Beck- Stay in Style ett to Andres Serrano’s Piss Christ came to Then I got a closer look. It wasn’t a tour- me like a Good Samaritan in my interpretive ist, well, unless he was a Brit (if you’re from ditch. During an interview with Bill Moyers Krakow, you know what I’m talking about). she said Serrano’s photograph wasn’t blas- The man was sleeping. There was a puddle phemous, instead it was a commentary on next to him that my curious eyes trailed “what we have done to Christ.” The fact that toward his crotch. It was totally soiled. Had Sister Wendy’s opinion is a charitable over-in- I wanted to take a cast of his chest for a terpretation will not concern me here, instead statue—as Canova is purported to have done I’ll risk offending a few more sensibilities by with Pauline—then there would have been saying something that smacks of nostalgia little or meek resistance. The man was really for the Medieval. piss drunk. These kinds of situations make Athanasius harder to swallow wholesale than But aren’t we better, more sensitive, more www.krakow-apartments.com a glass of Everclear. tolerant than people from the so-called Dark [email protected] Ages? What was I supposed to do in this situation? phone +48 12 4214865 Should I have hugged the man like St. Francis To read more, visit >> mobile +48 514973785 did with the leper? Would St. Francis have www.theotherjournal.com hugged this man? Would that have helped? www.krakow-apartments.com www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post August 2008 13 Business

New Life for the Old Bones

Duncan Rhodes Business in Brief

Editor’s note: John Marshall’s “Buying a for the building in the second half of New City for a New Poland Flat in Krakow: Part 2” will appear in a 2005, represented by their local minor- future edition. ity partners, GD&K Consulting sp. z o. As far as planned cities go, Poland’s o., and since then Verity (who have a experiment of the 20th century – Kra- For nearly three decades the tallest controlling 85 percent stake in the kow’s Nowa Huta – failed dramatically building in Krakow (approx. 93m tall) project) have begun planning Skele- as an economic project, as did most has been the cause of acute embarrass- tor’s resurrection. The concept is to of the grand communist projects at ment for the city. Existing as nothing renovate the existing tower, whose the time. However, the 21st century more than an abandoned shell, the 24- structure is architecturally sound, and is bringing a new type of planned city storey skyscraper has been dubbed by to add two new wings on either side of to Poland, this time with a very capi- locals as “Szkieletor” (Skeletor), a wry the skyscraper. The group has already talist plan. The small town of Balin, reference to the ribbed but fleshless received two of the three outline build- near Chrzanów and Trzebina and bor- villain of the He-Man series, which it ing permits they need from the city dering both the Małopolska and Silesia resembles. (issued in April 2008) to realise their voivodships, will be the future site of ideas. Currently they envisage that the a planned ultra-contemporary city for The history of the building can be tower will be split between an inter- 50,000 residents. “Nowe Miasto” (New traced back to the mid-1960s when national four star luxury hotel, on the Town) will include modern houses and a decision was made to construct a bottom half, and luxury apartments on apartment blocks, as well as hospitals, modern office, training and confer- the top, and that in addition two wings schools, parks, and of course offices ence centre for the Naczelna Organiza- will be dedicated to A-class offices and pleted by 2012, in time for the Euro- er will be unique because there are no and business centres, all spread over cja Techniczna (The Supreme Techni- commercial facilities. Internationally- pean Championships, and the project other high buildings nearby. Even the an area of 400 hectares. cal Organisation), with construction renowned architect Prof. Hans Koll- could have an enormous impact on the views from halfway up the tower are work finally starting in 1975. Progress hoff has been called in to design the district surrounding Rondo Mogiliskie, impressive and uninterrupted, while at The developer, Sultan Ahmed Bin Su- slowed however in 1979 with the dete- project, which has been titled “Trei- revitalising the area and attracting the very top the panoramic vistas are layem, chose the site in Poland for his rioration of the Polish economy, before morfa” in honour of the three shapes more investors instigating what in eco- simply stunning. The location is city newest project due to its convenient halting altogether in 1981. Various at- the complex will constitute. The Ger- nomic terms is referred to as a “virtu- centre and just metres from the Bo- location between a major academic tempts have since been made to revive man professor is considered one of the ous circle.” tanical Gardens, the newly completed centre – Krakow – and a major indus- the project but without success, and world’s leading architects in designing Opera House and a short walk from trial centre – Katowice and the sur- Skeletor has remained nothing more tall buildings in city centres, and his Peter Bradley of Verity Development Krakow’s main railway station and the rounding areas of Lower Silesia, all of than a towering icon of communist previous work includes the design of feels very positive about the success new Galeria Krakowska shopping cen- which are linked by the A4 highway. failure and a sort of anti-symbol of the the Daimler Chrysler Skyscraper in Ber- of the project and the impact it could tre. The A-class office will be an oppor- The Dubai-based developer is also be- city, championed by emo kids who en- lin, the reconstruction of the Ministry have on Krakow: “[The] Treimorfa tunity for high profile large companies hind the “World” project off the Dubai joyed climbing the structure (illegally) of Foreign Affairs, also in Berlin, and Project is a unique opportunity for the requiring a prestigious address in the coast, which is a series of man-made for a cigarette and views of the city. the “Deutschherrnufer” Skyscraper in historic and beautiful city of Krakow centre of Krakow, designed by one of islands in the shape of a world map. Frankfurt. to have a world renowned architect the world’s best architects; not some- Al Nakheel Properties will finance the A change however is in the making. design a spectacular project in an out- thing that has ever been available in Balin project, working through the Verity Development won the tender It is hoped that Treimorfa will be com- standing location. Views from the tow- Krakow until now.” Krakow-based Institute of Business Law and Foreign Investments Ltd., which is krakow FEIJ buying lots from local landowners (at a generous 10 złoty per square metre) Should your business at the moment. While one reason the be here? Sultan chose Poland is its already well- Get your business seen in Krakow’s educated and dynamic labour force, he leading English-language newspaper, hopes that the new city will also be a distributed at over 250 locations across the city including the airport place for Poles coming back from work- and onboard LOTand Lufthansa flights. ing in the West. [email protected] tel: (012) 4291699

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We at GBS know that looking for a good services to provide the best outcomes employee is just as difficult as searching in the recruitment and employment of for a good employer. When the recruitment personnel form a diverse set of business process extends over national boundaries sectors. and borders, finding the perfect candidate GBS has a wide client base, catering for is a real challenge. high profile transnational corporations as GBS is a Polish Recruitment and well as smaller commercial organizations. Consulting Agency. We offer high quality We look forward to hearing from you! A selection • HCL (IT) • CB&I (Gas & Petrochemical) of our clients • BMS (Construction) • Accounting Plaza (Finance) include: • State Street (Finance) • Doosan Babcock (Energy) • JP Morgan (Finance) • Autodesk (IT) GBS Recruitment Agency ul. Basztowa 23/1 e-mail: [email protected] 31-156 Krakow, Poland tel.: 012 428 50 69 www.gbsrecruitment.com 14 Krakow Post August 2008 www.krakowpost.com Sporting Post

Polish Beckham in Police Punch-up

Drunk footballers face charges of assaulting police officers

Sports Reporter

In an incident that tabloid edi- and spent 48 hours in a holding tors dream about, two former cell in Koszalin. The charges players in the Polish national against them include assault on team were arrested in Mielno a police officer under the influ- on the night of July 27-28th ence of alcohol. after getting into a brawl with two police officers. One of the The Polish press reported that players was none other than the men were partying very Radosław Majdan, the former loudly at a guesthouse, prompt- Wisła goalkeeper whose playing a neighbour to call the po- boy lifestyle (he was married lice. When the cops arrived to to pop princess Doda and not intervene, they were allegedly so long ago his red Ferrari was met with physically forceful regularly found parked on Plac “troublemakers” who violently Szczepański) has won him the resisted arrest. The police had dubious accolade of “the Pol- to call for back-up and use gas ish Beckham.” Indeed, the two in order to finally subdue the have several similarities, with men. Majdan’s trademark pretty-boy Radek Majdan. Source: RealMadrid.pl hairstyle and his numerous tat- What consequences could the However, at the moment noth- The officers proceeded to alleg- written in the press, that I had a toos, not to mention his on/ footballers face if convicted? ing is certain, as the testimonies edly hold Świerczewski down 1.5 percent blood alcohol level, off wife’s artificially-enhanced As Majdan is also a Member of of Majdan and Świerczewski on the ground and sit on top of that we were fighting with the hooters likening the two. But Parliament for Donald Tusk’s vary greatly from the testimo- him, prompting a reaction from cops, is true. This matter is a whereas the original Beckham Citizens’ Civic Platform Party nies of the police officers. Ac- both Majdan and the third man, farce to me. Because I didn’t do has so far limited his violent (PO) (beat that Beckham!), he cording to Majdan, there was leading to their arrests. anything, I had to spend two outbursts to the famous petu- could certainly be dismissed “no aggression” from the foot- days in a cell.” When asked if lant kick on Diego Simeone from his position – currently he ballers’ side: “I understand that While spending timein custody, guilty, he denied all charges: “I which saw him sent off in the has been suspended from the a policeman is a person too and each man had their blood test- have nothing to admit. Maybe 1998 world cup, Majdan has Party. At the time of print, the he got carried away, he began ed for alcohol and narcotic sub- only that I had one beer too now become involved in a far Polonia Warsaw football club to abuse him [Piotr Ś.] with gas, stances. Świerczewski refused a many. But I was not drunk.” greater scandal. has decided not to renew ei- but you cannot say that we sud- breathalyzer test, while Majdan ther men’s contracts. Majdan’s denly began to fight with them.” was found to have 1.5 per mille However, according to Przegląd The ruckus took place in the contract expired at the end of Several witnesses have partially of alcohol. Majdan denies all Sportowy, Majdan won’t stay town of Mielno on the Baltic June, and he was due to sign a confirmed Majdan’s view of the charges: “This matter is a farce. unemployed for long – appar- Sea, after which Majdan, Po- two-year contract at the start of events, saying that trouble be- I now have to suffer for some- ently Arka Gdynia have already lonia teammate Świerczewski August. All three men also face gan when an officer attempted thing I did not do. I do not admit expressed interest in the physi- and another man, referred to further jail time if convicted of to arrest Świerczewski, leading to any of the alleged charges.” cally exuberant footballer. as Jarosław Ch., were arrested assault and battery. the latter to retaliate violently. He also stated: “None of what is Wisła Get the Jitters on European Stage

Sports Reporter

Beitar Jerusalem 2 : Wisła Krakow 1 On the 30th July Wisła Krakow Malmö FF, 3:5. More recently, in Beitar defender failed to deal ily in the box when he had a defense and slot home the win- landed at Ben-Gurion Interna- the 2005/06 season, Wisła nar- with authoritatively. Goalkeeper golden chance to make it 2-0. ner in the 79th minute. tional Airport and made their rowly missed qualifying for the Tvrtko Kale was also to blame: The tide turned on the 60th min- way to Teddy Stadium in Jeru- Champions League group stage, coming for and missing the ball ute. As half of the Wisła players As if to confirm that Wisła lack salem, hoping to make a bright after being beaten 4:5 by Greek on a high bounce he was left to appealed for a penalty, Beitar’s the maturity to go far in this start to their UEFA Champions side Panathinaikos during extra watch it helplessly as it looped Michael Zandberg picked out competition Marek Zieńczuk League campaign against hosts time. With results not living up into his own net. The referee Baruchyan with a superb cross- committed a needless second Beitar Jerusalem. to the fans’ expectations, the rightly judged that the ball had field ball. Baruchyan was then bookable offence with two min- pressure was on for Wisła to already crossed the line, after given much too much room utes remaining. The midfielder The Polish champions have turn their European fortunes a late clearance was made by a to shoot, scoring with a fierce will now be forced to sit out the typically struggled in Europe, around in Israel. back-tracking defender. left-footed drive into the bot- second leg through suspension. their finest hour taking place tom corner of Pawełek’s goal. It Wisla will host Beitar Jersualem way back in the 1978/79 sea- Things got off to a good start After taking the lead however, was Baruchyan again who com- on the 6th of August. son, when they reached the for the Krakow side when Pawel Wisła were then guilty of not pounded the visitor’s misery, quarter-finals of the European Brozek managed to get a head pressing home their advantage, linking up beautifully with his Cup only to be knocked out by to a speculative ball, which the Sobolewski going down too eas- team mate to unlock the Wisła www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post August 2008 15 Culture

THE KOSSAKS The Manor and the Missing Talisman Although the family was a part of the old Polish gentry, Kossak didn’t become a household name until the nineteenth century. It was Juliusz (1824-1899) and his Nick Hodge goes in search of underground legends son Wojciech (1857-1942) who turned things around. They took the Polish art world by storm with their swashbuckling slant on the nation’s history. The father and son pair largely worked at a time when Poland didn’t actually exist as a sovereign country, and just as novelist Henryk Sienkiewicz tried to “uplift hearts” with his Three Musketeers-type sagas, so the Kossaks did likewise with their paintings. They specialised in crazed cavalry charges and, not least, portraits of noblemen with huge moustaches. It wasn’t avant- garde stuff, but it was a major hit. Indeed, just as an English manor would have been incom- plete without pictures of chaps chasing foxes, so, in the Polish dwór, everyone wanted a Kossak on the wall.

Wojciech’s son Jerzy (1886- 1945) was another hit painter, but it was his daughters Maria (1891-1945) and Magdalena (1894-1972) who took the family in more intriguing directions. Maria Pawlikowska- Jasnorzewska, who wrote under her marital names, was a flamboy- ant figure, known as the “Polish Sappho,” or “the queen of lyrical poetry.” She sparked a fair few scandals, both in her private and literary adventures. Her younger sister, Magdalena Samozwaniec, also made her mark on the literary world, and her satirical works The manor house at Górki Wielkie, 1920s. Image courtesy of the Zofia Kossak Foundation and aphorisms remain highly popular today. dyllic worlds turned up- met with no less rude a shock. Polish Underground’s Council the goblin and his minions. Zofia Kossak-Szatkowska (1889- side down are the bread to Aid Jews) and a survivor of 1968), the subject of the accom- and butter of children’s The 300-year-old manor, home Auschwitz, she was a larger Today, the sorry state of the panying article, was the grand- tales, and this season’s of the gnome Casp - mischie- than life character who the Par- house seems to fly in the face daughter of painter Juliusz, and I the daughter of Wojciech’s twin blockbuster saw Prince Caspian vous hero of the Polish tale ty simply didn’t trust. of traditional cheery endings. brother Tadeusz. She is regarded don his armour in a bid to save - is a gaping shell. Wander- But over in what remains as one of the country’s foremost the imperilled land of Narnia. ing around the ruin, it’s hard of the garden, some fan- writers of historical novels, and to imagine that the house still A Return to Roots tastical work is afoot. her works have been translated into many languages. When war Dwarves and talking badgers stood seventy years ago. Finch- came, she joined the Polish may contrive to throw us off es swoop in, alighting on obso- In The Troubles of It’s said that only mad Underground and co-founded the scent, but curiously enough, lete arches. Dead leaves twist a Gnome, Casp is a dogs and Englishmen go Żegota, the Council to Aid Jews. Prince Caspian was partly shot in the breeze across the floor. venerable fellow who out in the midday sun. After surviving Auschwitz, she was harassed by the Communists in the Silesian mountains of There is no trace of the graceful watches over the But here in the garden and spent twelve years in exile in southern Poland, a world that avenue of birch trees that once household, includ- a band of students from England. After Stalin’s death, she has its own place in the canon made up the main drive to the ing all of its peculiar Krakow’s Arts Academy was allowed to return to Poland, of children’s literature. It was house. Light industry has ar- sprites, and the many is braving the heat. where she ended her days in 1968. here that one of Poland’s best- rived. A factory flogging plastic farmyard animals. Emerging from a 200 loved children’s tales took lanterns flanks one side of the Although gener- metre squared panorama shape, Kłopoty Kacperka Góreck- manor, a battery chicken busi- ally respectable, he is fond is a scene from Zofia Kossak’s iego Skrzata, (The Troubles of A ness borders the other. It’s a of getting up to mischief. He book Puszkarz Urbano, detail- Gnome) translated into English typical scene in today’s Poland. has a penchant for turning ing the Fall of Constantinople in 1928 and now in develop- paintings upside down and in 1492. Alongside, children are ment by Oscar-winning film The pre-war owner of the house, hiding people’s spectacles. His creating their own merry mas- producer Zbigniew Żmudzki. Zofia Kossak-Szatkowska (1889- treasured talisman, Maru, is a terpiece, a panorama peopled 1968), was one of Poland’s fin- magic earring that allows him with characters from The Trou- Prince Caspian saw the Peven- est authors of historical novels. to turn invisible, shift fiendish- bles of a Gnome. It’s a scene sie children transported back She lived here with her fam- ly heavy objects, and not least, that would have delighted to Narnia, only to discover ily until 1939. When the Nazis transport himself through thin Wojciech Kossak, Zofia’s uncle, that thousands of years have came, they commandeered the air. However, one day the talis- as he painted one of Poland’s elapsed and that the castle property and the house went man falls into the clutches of a most fabled works of art – The which had been their home is up in a blaze in 1945. Kossak hideous hobgoblin. The whole Racławice Panorama (1894). In a mere ruin. Today, travellers had to flee Poland the same fate of the manor is thrown into mid-August, a second wave of arriving at the village of Górki year, as the Communists had jeopardy. Finally, all the ani- “The Kossak Summer of Arts” Wielkie, the real-life setting of earmarked her as a troublemak- mals and sprites must put aside begins, this time with interna- The Troubles of A Gnome, are er. A co-founder of Żegota (the their differences to vanquish tional sculptors having a crack Zofia Kossak-Szatkowska 16 Krakow Post August 2008 www.krakowpost.com nnn CultureCulture Culture

at characters from Kossak’s gardener’s cottage on the es- CULTURE IN BRIEF books. tate – a rare privilege in a country where former squires were Overseeing all this is Anna banned from going anywhere Competition for Best Krakow Fenby-Taylor, the eldest grand- near their pre-war property. Film daughter of Zofia Kossak. A That said, the Party must have soft-spoken lady born in Eng- soon regretted its decision, as Veteran filmmaker Andrzej Wa- land after the war, she began Kossak was one of the first to jda is sponsoring a nationwide restoring the property in 2004. protest against censorship, and prize for an outstanding film she deliberately turned down a script with Cracovian themes. “The whole idea of the Summer state prize in 1964. The lucky winner of the “Trzy of Arts was to get people who Korony Krakowa” (The Three pass by regularly just to call “My grandparents were an in- Crowns of Krakow) competi- in and realise that they have teresting pair,” Mrs. Fenby-Tay- tion will have his or her film got something here that has lor recalls, a coy smile light- made into a full-length feature changed,” she says. ing up her face. “She was very by TVP. They’ll also be given a short. Short in stature, but she handy 60,000 złoty towards the “This was allowed to go to ruin was fairly round, and she had a project. and was in a shocking state ten very sweet tooth. She liked pas- years ago. But now at least there tries and things like that. And Wajda, who has lived in Krakow is something to see, somewhere although post-Auschwitz she for most of his life, has assem- to relax. We want it to be a place was really just like a walking bled a first class jury to select where people come with their skeleton, gradually, she put on the winning script. Directors friends, their family, and have weight. Feliks Falk and Janusz Majew- a pleasant day out.” ski will be taking two of the hot “My memories of her go back seats, and they’ll be joined by Mrs. Fenby-Taylor, supported to a very homely person, very actor Jerzy Stuhr and sceen- by Kossak descendants in Eng- kind, gentle, a person who had writer Cezary Harasimowicz. land and Switzerland, is trans- presence and charisma. For TVP will be publishing more de- forming the hotchpotch of some reason, one was very hap- tails on their website at www. battered estate buildings into py just being in the same room tvp.pl. Casp the Gnome, illustrated by Charles Folkard (1928) a new enterprise. The stable- as her. She was one of these block has been converted into a people who put you at ease and “I never remember her getting all night she had problems with hostel for hikers. The ice-house made you feel incredibly im- cross. She sometimes frowned the quilt. She said that she had now has kitchens and a hall for portant and valued.” when she read a letter, so clear- an actual physical battle - that Polish Architects Recognised meetings and dinners. ly something worried her. But there was someone at the end These qualities must have she had an incredible trust in of the bed, pulling it off. She Two Polish architectural firms, “If I’d known how much trouble proved fundamental in found- God, and she took each day as always swore that it was Casp!” Krakow’s Mobius Architekci it would be,” she jokes, “I might ing the Council to Aid Jews it came.” Similar stories abound. and Poznań’s Front Architects, never have started!” during the war. Although by no have made this year’s Wallpa- means a conventional philosem- Humour was also a help, a char- Zofia Kossak noted in her book per magazine’s prestigious list Fenby-Taylor’s first memories ite (indeed, Kossak had voiced acteristic that shines through that Casp was to be the guard- of the world’s 50 hottest young of Poland go back to the early distinct reservations about the in Kossak’s books: “She man- ian spirit of the manor until the architecture practices, the sixties. After Stalin’s death, Jewish community), in 1943 aged to say things with a slight end - “until the foundations go “Architects Dictionary 2008.” there was a brief blast of opti- she galvanised people to take twist,” her granddaughter re- to dust and the house sinks into Mobius Architekci arose just mism known as the “thaw,” and action, risking her own life and members, “she always had a moss-covered ruins.” The twen- two years ago, created by Kra- Zofia Kossak, now ageing, was persuading others to do like- twinkle in her eye.” tieth century may have dealt kow University of Technology invited to return to Poland. The wise in a bid to save Jews from some brutal blows, but things graduate Przemysław Olczyk, regime wanted to be seen to be the Nazi ghettos. In this light, it’s easy to see haven’t got quite that bad yet. and specialises in residential conciliatory with literary greats, the gnome Casp as the fruit The manor’s walls have recent- architecture and interior de- and a ban was lifted on most of Anna Fenby-Taylor describes of a playful mind. He was a ly been propped up, and there sign. The firm has already con- Kossak’s books. Not least, the her grandmother as “the eter- friendly ghost (some say Holly- is talk of further restoration. tributed several houses to the author and her husband were nal optimist”: wood actually took the idea for The garden cottage lives on as landscape of Krakow, including allowed to live in the former their film and television series a charming museum. And if an- a built-house extension project Caspar The Friendly Ghost), in- imated film producer Zbigniew in the Wola Justowska district, tended to help the young Kos- Żmudzki can pull off another and more are planned for the sak children feel at home in a hit, Casp could be on the verge future. creaky old house. But talking to of an altogether new adventure members of the family, it soon - movie stardom. British magazine Wallpaper is becomes apparent that Casp one of the biggest international was much more than that. “It’s a wonderful story” design and architectural publi- Żmudzki told the Krakow Post, cations, and each year picks the “Casp was definitely a member “we think it has the ingredients hottest young architecture firms of the family,” Mrs. Fenby-Taylor for a fantastic film.” based on a variety of factors – affirms. “My father, the grown- including unconventional design ups, they all talked about him solutions and business practices as if he was a real entity, and – in addition to their portfolios. someone to be respected. There The full list of the Architects was a custom of leaving wine Dictionary 2008 can be viewed for Casp in the evenings, and online at www.wallpaper.com/ when my aunt Marysia drunk For more info about the Kossak architecture/architects-direc- it one night on the way to bed, Summer of Arts see CL7, or log tory-2008/2474 thinking it would go to waste, on to www.zofiakossak.pl The Kossak manor today www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post August 2008 17 Culture

PHOTO OF THE MONTH REEL LIFE The X-Files: I Want to Believe THEME: KRAKOW SUMMER Fight the future: don’t see this movie

I wanted to believe, I really did. I mean, I was a true believer once, I even had that poster of Mulder and Scully and the big eerie X (you know the one) above my bed when I was 12. I wanted to join the FBI and become Mrs. Fox Mulder back then. And now? Now I just want my 19 złoty and 100 minutes back. To say that The X- Files: I Want to Believe is merely a drawn-out X-Files episode would actually give it more credit than is due, as most regular episodes of the series, particularly from the first six or so seasons, were far superior in their 40 minute entireties than this film. It’s as if the writers took a below-average non-story arc episode, extended it to movie length, threw in some bits out of Scully and Mulder’s post-FBI lives (which have become quite dull, apparently), and added some mad Russian scientists with Dr. Frankenstein aspirations just for kicks. Sure, the obvious nostalgia points were present to appease the dedicated followers: references to Mulder’s sister, the endless science vs. faith debate (still unresolved), even Skinner made an appearance. But where are the aliens, the intricate conspiracy theories involving the highest levels of government? Or, God forbid, the brilliant philosophical quandaries that made the show so intriguing in the first place? Even the previous mediocre X-Files episode in movie form, Fight the Future (1998), had a much grander vision and tied into the overall series plot. Have Mulder and Scully really become so boring in their middle age, or have we as viewers, as loyal fans, become so old, so boring in those six years since the show ended that Chris Carter and company thought we could actually tolerate this poor excuse for a film? I want to believe it’s the former... but the truth is out there. Anna Spysz

SHELF IMPROVEMENT Selected Tales by Henryk Sienkiewicz A fine introduction to a Polish great

Henryk Sienkiewicz, (1846-1916) does not need any introduction to readers of classic Polish writing. This gem of a book, however, gives a fascinating insight into the younger writer, whose father was a Polish nobleman of Tatar descent. Most famous for the epic novel Quo Vadis (which helped win his Nobel lifetime achievement award in 1905), he is best-loved in Poland for his later historical novels With Fire and Sword, The Deluge, and Fire in the Steppe - known as “The Trilogy.” This collection of early stories contains “The Old Servant” (1875), and “Hania” (1876), the first two stories known collectively as “The Little Tril- August’s Photo of the Month was taken by Harry Gluck ogy,” (the third being “Selim Mirza,” 1877). Themes of love and death abound. In “Hania,” two schoolboy friends (one Tatar, the other Polish) growing up on neighbouring estates fall in love with the orphan Hania, a typical character-type in Sienkiewicz’s early stories, and fight a blood-curdling duel... History is played “An image of modern Krakow - a picture of a laughing nun taken near the Stare Miasto” out on a smaller stage. Included also is perhaps his best-known early story: “The Lighthouse Keeper,” a lyrical account of a Polish wayfarer who manages to find In September Krakow Post will publish the best “summer concerts” photo. The winner will employment in Panama as a keeper of the seas. He falls upon a washed-up copy receive a free Krakow Post t-shirt. of Pan Tadeusz, which sends him into a nostalgic reverie for his lost Poland, whereupon he falls asleep on the rocks, with disastrous results. All in all, this is an invaluable collection as an introduction to the early Sienkiewicz, well worth All entries welcome. Send entries to [email protected] by August 25th. rooting out, and a great introduction to the mindset of the later Nobel prize- winner.

This month’s “Shelf Improvement” was written by Rob Tootell, the author of Krakow Stories and Stranger Things Than This. [email protected] Language

Trips off the Tongue Is Polish really that difficult? Or is that just a myth, an over-used excuse touted by lazy language students? Let’s find out…Krakow Post introduces a series of brief lessons, which should prove useful when learning this beautiful language, as prepared by a native Polish linguist and teacher. Grażyna Zawada

Q: Can you please explain the uses of need to consider the gender (male/female/ one (“jeden”) has an nominative ending as dziewczyny/dwa krzesła [I see ...] TO BE CONTINUED NEXT MONTH... dwa, dwie, etc., and generally when each neutral in singular and masculine personal/ a noun (ø/-a/-o) and inflects as an adjec- The rest have one form: Confused by Polish gram- type of “two” should be used? non-masculine personal in plural), which tive in other cases. Number two (“dwa”) genitive: Nie ma dwóch chłopców/dziewc- mar? Send your query grammatical case is needed in a particular inflects only for gender and its most tricky zyn/krzeseł. [... are not here] to editor@krakowpost. A: It’s important to know that Polish nu- sentence structure, and sometimes num- cases are the nominal and accusative: dative: Dziękuję dwóm chłopcom/dziewc- merals inflect for cases and gender (ordi- ber (singular/plural). In Polish there are zynom. [I thank....] com, and our Polish nals also for number), and that’s a source three basic types of numerals: cardinal, nominative: Dwaj chłopcy/dwie dziewc- instrumental: Idę z dwoma chłopcami/ linguist may answer your of many potential problems for all who ordinal and collective. Cardinal numerals zyny/dwa krzesła stoją na schodach [Two dziewczynami/krzesłami [I go with ...] question in the next want to master Polish, because it requires show (as in English) the general number of boys/girls/chairs are standing on the locative: Opowiadam o dwóch chłopcach/ edition of “Trips off the a lot of attention and focus from a for- something you want to speak about, but stairs] dziewczynach [I tell about....] Tongue!” eigner. To express a numeral properly you you need to fit it in a proper case. Number accusative: Widzę dwóch chłopców/dwie 18 Krakow Post August 2008 www.krakowpost.com nnn CultureCulture Culture

Live Review: Music Saxophone Summit Blows Hot and Cold Philip Palmer CocoRosie: Something Like an Interview

Thymn Chase The inaugural concert of this year’s Piwnica Pod Baran- ami Summer Jazz Festival, the “Saxophone Summit,” on paper should have been a fascinating dialogue between saxophonists Branford Marsalis, Greg Osby, Lee Konitz, Janusz Muniak and Adam Pierończyk. Unfortunately, the programming was too safe to be a real summit, with the first set matching like with like and the second given over to a performance by The Branford Marsalis Quartet.

The concert was opened by Lee Konitz. Arguably one of the finest alto saxophonists ever to have lived, he is revered for his constant search for new challenges. During his long career, he has managed to assimilate all the jazz revolutions, even performing in the 80s with musical extremist, guitarist Derek Bailey. But he is already in his late seventies and appeared ill at ease as he squinted up at the blinding lights, and anxiously eyed his watch. His partner, Janusz Muniak, who is strongly influenced by former Konitz collaborator, Stan Getz, afforded Konitz too much respect, even withdrawing behind the grand piano at one point to give the elder statesman centre stage. It was interesting, however, to see Konitz perform in a range of different combinations with young musicians like pianist, Paweł Kaczmarczyk.

After this slightly disappointing opening, young gun CocoRosie relax in their natural habitat Adam Pierończyk was paired up with Greg Osby, a passer-on of the flame who is best known for creating a raw but relatively undemanding fusion of virtuosic jazz sensibility and what he considers to be the sounds of the ghetto - hip hop and funk breakbeats. So the set was unsurprisingly dominated by the wide array of clini- cally precise rhythms served up by drummer Krzysztof Dziedzic. And the clothes summit... Pierończyk’s cheeky black and white striped shirt was nicely offset by Osby’s perfectly tailored grey suit. Similarly, Pierończyk’s trademark darting runs were nicely complemented by Osby’s cool angular playing.

en minutes after performing a KP: All right, lets pour some concrete. How ra’s bathroom for two months. When they Branford Marsalis is probably best known for his contri- breathtakingly beautiful and do you feel about the gig? emerged they had their first album record- butions to Sting’s “Englishman in New York” et al. and thoroughly energetic set Sat- Bianca: Amazing! I think this was one of ed on an amateur tape recorder – this was the scores for the Spike Lee films, Mo’ Better Blues and urday night at Open’er 2008, the best crowds we’ve played to all sum- the beginning of CocoRosie. Do The Right Thing. While his younger brother, trum- TI found myself face to face with the two mer. There was so much energy. They re- peter Wynton Marsalis, exploded onto the scene fully- enchantingly eclectic sister sirens of Co- ally made us feel at home. KP: What is your least favourite colour? formed in the early 80s, Branford was forced to develop coRosie. Upon entering their dressing Sierra: Yeah this crowd was even better S: Least favourite? his own voice in the glare of media attention that the room I immediately felt that I’d entered than Roskilde last night. There is something B: We love all the colours, how could you outspoken family have often attracted. Criticised in the some kind of magical alternate realm; special about this Polish audience – they re- not like any of them? early days for his inability to “focus an eloquent battery of remarks into a proper speech,” he is now considered children’s instruments, weird toys, pots ally felt the music. We could have played S: Yeah, there is a time and an emotion for to be one of the greatest saxophonists in the world. of acrylic paints, crayons, markers, lip- all night. every colour. stick, mascara, neon face paint, glit- KP: Is this your first time playing in Poland? And he certainly behaves as if he is. He swaggered onto ter and an assortment of costumes and B: No we’ve played in Warsaw once be- [Feeling slightly unsatisfied I quickly the stage like a prizefighter before churlishly suggesting clothes were scattered across the room. fore. scanned the room for a potentially scurri- that the venue was unsuitable for the music his quartet Bianca (aka Coco) sat in the middle of the S: Twice. lous colour and my eyes eventually fell on played and promising that he wouldn’t treat the crowd room on a puffy couch and was colour- B: Really? I can’t keep track anymore. my own jacket.] to “stories” between numbers that they couldn’t pos- ing in a Moleskin journal and Sierra (aka S: Yeah, both gigs were pretty great and we sibly understand. Thank God for that. Because when the Rosie) was seated in front of a mirror ei- felt a lot of love. KP: Even dirty beige? music was left to speak for itself, his quartet produced music of real fire and imagination underpinned by the ther putting on or taking off some funky S: …Ew, maybe not that one. I don’t think extraordinarily sensitive drumming of Marsalis’s long make-up. As I settled into a plastic chair I For the uninitiated, Bianca and Sierra Cassi- I would ever wear anything beige. It’s kind term percussionist, the bull-necked bundle of exploding got an eerie, slightly ludicrous feeling one dy are American sisters both born in the of boring and dull… Bianca you would look nerve endings that is Jeff “Tain” Watts. might get before attempting to interview early 80s in separate states and raised sep- terrible as well. a pair of unicorns. arately – each with a different one of their B: Yeah. That’s probably the most f*cking The second encore finally offered the patient crowd a estranged hippy parents. They were reunit- depressing, lifeless and disgusting colour chance to hear all the saxophonists on the stage at one Bianca: Ok let’s do this thing, let’s hit this. ed in 2003 in Paris when Bianca randomly there is now that you mention it. time. Konitz, in particular, really began to show what Lets get this thing done… turned up at Sierra’s apartment. Sierra had KP: Sorry for mentioning it. he’s capable of. A tantalizing glimpse of what could been studying in Paris to be a professional B: Don’t worry about it. have been. [I was slightly taken aback but totally opera singer and Bianca was “wandering”. pulled back to reality by Bianca’s street- Something clicked immediately and music To read more, visit >> wise Brooklyn accent and her sharp tongue. started pouring out of both of them. They www.krakowpost.com No unicorns here.] then proceeded to lock themselves in Sier- www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post August 2008 19 Extra Post

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> by night > reviews > spotlight > posted Notes From the Drop In, Fork Out, Coke Live Music Festival Concerts, exhibitions & Underground Get Served previewed parties /CL 2 /CL 3, 5 /CL 6 /CL 7, 8, 9, 10 CL2 Krakow Post AUGUST 2008 www.krakowpost.com

byNightlife night & Dining

festival’s ugliest customers? Erykah Badu someone had tinkered with my mushroom certainly seemed a come down after that Margherita, but suddenly the grey figure of Notes From the so I bade her goodnight, determined to feel Father Time appeared in front of me and, fresher for the final round of concerts on baiting me a toothless sneer, offered me a Sunday. Zimmer frame for the journey home and an early retirement plan. This was getting Underground Maybe it was a half decent snooze for once, ridiculous: “What am I, sissy or Slinky?” In- maybe it was the pre-concert vodkas, or dignation rose like bile, anger seized my maybe it was because the end was in sight, heart, and the Party Spirit coursed through Conceived under the silvery light of a full moon party in Ko Pha Ngan, raised but on the third night of the festival I was in my veins. I gave the old git a mighty kick by lotus-eating hippies in Ibiza and suckled on the milk of Eric Morillo’s mix- a surprisingly good mood. Goldfrapp’s me- in the balls and headed straight for the lodious refrains were enjoyed with a cold Beat Stage, flipping him the finger as I ing nipple, Krakow Post proudly presents their nightlife correspondent… the beer and the setting sun, whilst a group went. It was the best decision I made all smooth, and ever-so-slightly-slippery, Slinky. of twenty of us gathered for the timeless festival. The Hungry Hungry Models were anthems of Massive Attack. But it was the letting rip with all kinds of musical may- I’ve spent the last few nights in a comfort- time temperatures to what felt like zero, Chemical Brothers who stole the show. The hem, and a die-hard crowd of nu-ravers able bed (my own, before you ask), I’ve but was probably about 13 or 14 degrees. sound was pitch perfect as big hit followed were tearing up the dancefloor in a sweaty, been showering under cascades of hot wa- The minute Miss Murphy finished her en- big hit – “Galvanise,” “Star Guitar” and “Do ecstasy-enriched, Heineken-fuelled frenzy. ter and I’ve been pooing into a spotlessly core, I rushed back to camp and shivered it Again” blasting into the Baltic air. It’s For the first time in three days, I could say clean latrine. It’s after this return to nor- inside my sleeping bag until the hound- a sign of a great live band that they play unequivocally I was having a f@cking good mality that I can look back at the Heineken ing bass of the Beat Stage finally stopped their crowd-pleasers, and no sooner had I time! Open’er Festival, distilled now into a score torturing me (around 5:30 am), whereupon expressed a desire for some “Block Rockin’ of humorous photos, and say that I had I was at last allowed to slip into uncon- Beats” than the crowd was stomping away As I trudged home around 6 am, exhaust- an absolutely fantastic time. Doubtless sciousness. Barely three hours later and on the grass towards a final crescendo. ed but in great spirits, I reflected that that, before long, I’ll have filed the festi- I was rudely awakened by the sensation As the first cracks appeared in the night I only had to endure one more shower val away, along with family holidays in the of being cooked alive, the morning sun sky and the majority of the festival-goers cold enough to cryogenically freeze my south of France and that summer in Spain transforming my tent into an innovatively- filtered home, I was faced with a charac- testicles, two or three more trips to a fly- shacked up with the naughty Natalia, as an- shaped microwave oven. Frantically I un- ter-defining dilemma. On the one hand it infested canister full of accumulated hu- other fantastic episode in the salad days of did the zip and clambered, half-suffocated, was the last night and I should be raising man waste peppered with bloody sanitary my life. If that happens it will be a pleasant and fully drenched in sweat, into day two hell until they kick me off campus. On the towels, a five hour wait at Gdynia station, trick of memory. The truth – already fad- of the festival. other hand it was already 3 am, I was ex- and nine uncomfortable hours on the train ing fast - is that I spent most of a hugely hausted by a series of sleepless nights, and itself, before I would be back home safely uncomfortable weekend looking forward Which brings me to arguably the worst or- my stomach – tormented by a diet of Tel- tucked up in bed. Heineken 2009? ...I won’t to nothing more than the finishing line. deal of the Open’er experience: the show- epizza, ice cream and alcohol - was threat- book my ticket just yet. ers. The benevolent organisers had kindly ening to give way at any moment. Maybe I really thought I’d cracked it this year. I’d doubled the campsite space since two packed three sachets of Alka Seltzer, two years ago (profits) but neglected to add any earplugs, four boxes of Immodium, a stur- extra washing facilities (expenses), mean- dy supply of wet wipes and an inflatable ing that anyone valuing cleanliness had to mattress. Killer hangovers, excessive noise, queue for at least an hour each morning for the squits, and bumpy camping grounds - the privilege of an icy douche. And when I surely I was ready for anything? Anything say icy, I don’t mean lukewarm. They were it turns out, apart from the crippling pas- cold enough to induce serious heart pal- sage of Father Time. Whereas a younger pitations, and as for running the shower Slinky would have treated a nine hour train over your sweaty bits... it was not a joyful ride across Poland as a great adventure, experience. celebrated arriving at the festival a day early by cracking open a six pack, and ef- What with sleep deprivation and the daily fortlessly slept off the after effects on the water torture, I was in medium spirits at beach the next day, an older and grumpier best by the time Cool Kids of Death, Co- version endured a strength-sapping epic coRosie, Jay-Z, Sex Pistols and Erykah Badu journey with ill-grace, was thwarted in his set out to impress me. Whilst I struggled to attempts to get an early night by the wail- understand what the fuss was about during ings of various deranged maniacs and then CocoRosie (surely another sign of getting had his siesta on the sand ruined by the old?), it was surprisingly the much-derided paranoid conviction that the moment he Jay-Z who sparked that first festival feel- dozed off he would be bashed by a rogue ing with his charismatic performance. by night photo of the month Frisbee. However, there was no way I was missing the Sex Pistols, and I cut short the “silly “Drink we must - Prozak we are at” And so, exhausted before the festival had rapper” (Johnny Rotten’s words), in order 4 Elements @ Prozak even begun, I ended up yawning my way to race over to the Tent Stage. Metrosexual through performances by the Editors, Ra- and punk are not two ethoi that normally conteurs and Roisin Murphy on day one, go together, but as the band launched into Supplied by mynight.pl the my wavering endurance further tested by “Pretty Vacant” who was I to resist some top website for clubbing photos. a cold Baltic breeze that plunged the night- moshing and argy-bargy with some of the www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post AUGUST 2008 CL3 DROP IN GET SERVED

Elevating the mundane task of pouring drinks into an acrobatic art form during July was barman and flair artist Mateusz Gąciarz. A smooth operator who could teach Tom Cruise a thing or two about the art of spinning bottles, Mateusz happily entertains his customers with a dizzying array of juggling acts and party tricks. Catch him at the recently-opened InBlanco club and cafe.

Q: Where did you learn to flair? A: From my two colleagues, Przemysław Musialek and Marcin Dąbek, who are two of the greatest flair artists in the country.

Q: Did you have to practice in your bedroom for a long time first? A: No, my first time was in a bar, but sometimes I do practice in my bedroom. But it’s not a good idea because it’s easy to break something.

Q: Does it impress the ladies? A: Yes, of course. Not many people in Poland use flair techniques, so the girls are interested.

Miejsce Bar Q: What’s your favourite trick? ul. Estery 1, +48 (0) 783096016 A: I hold a bottle in my left hand and two shakers in my right hand. I throw the shakers up first, then the bottle, and I catch the bottle in one of the shakers.

The cool kids of Kazimierz have already beaten you to this venue, which seems to have opened Q: What cocktail do you recommend for when you’ve lost your job and want to get really up especially in honour of them. From the shoddy whitewashed walls with wires taped to the pissed and dance like a maniac? brickwork, to the dinky plastic stools in primary colours and the retro bric-a-brac, Miejsce is A: It’s called “Adios Motherf*cker.” It’s 20ml of tequila, 20ml of rum, 20ml of gin, 20ml clearly targeting the kind of clientele that spend more money on trainers and haircuts than they of vodka, 20ml of Blue Curacao and 10ml of lime juice, shake it, then top up with 7up or do on rent. And it’s working. Artistic types bored of Piekny Pies and Pauza have already made Sprite. themselves comfortable in the lounge-style chairs, where they can check the latest activities on their start-up website, courtesy of free WiFi, or discuss Sigur Rós’s new album (it’s crap) Q: What’s your favourite party at InBlanco? A: Fridays there’s an R’n’B party and on Saturdays is house music. I prefer Fridays. over a piwo. When the weather’s nice patrons can also sit out in a small (but not so-small-as- to-be-completely-pointless) back yard; and, as well as serving the usual range of beverages, a Q: What’s your top tip for passing the time in Krakow during August? tray of brownies helps stave off the stomach rumbles. Overall Miejsce is a worthy, albeit self- A: Go to one of the beaches nearby and take a swim. conscious, addition to the Kazimierz scene.

Duncan Rhodes DROP IN

CK Browar ul. Podwale 6-7, +48 (0)12 429 2505, www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl

For this edition of the Post, I decided to pay my respects to an old favourite that, as a bona fide beer lover, I had neglected for far too long. At CK Browar, the first micro-brewery to open in Małopolska, ale aficionados can taste four very different yeast infusions, brewed on the prem- ises in huge vats to ancient Austro-Hungarian recipes. If you find the likes of Tyskie and Żywiec as bland as a bottle of sparkling dishwater then you’ll get a real kick from sampling Browar’s flavoursome light, dark, ginger and wheat beers; especially if you order them in five litre tubes from which you can pour your own pint – a simple, yet hugely gratifying, pleasure. The Austrian influence doesn’t stop at the brewing process, and, as well as the beer hall and hunting lodge décor, visitors will find a food menu full of classic Austrian dishes such as knuckles of pork and Viennese schnitzels – perfect for soaking up a couple of extra glasses of the good stuff. A minor caveat for the thimble-bladdered is that a pocketful of loose change is needed for tipping the toilet attendant.

Duncan Rhodes Mateusz Gąciarz, August’s barperson of the month

www.restauracja-amadeus.pl CL4 Krakow Post AUGUST 2008 ADVERTISEMENTS www.krakowpost.com

Restaurant with unique temperament and Cracow atmosphere ! Famous restaurant on the “King’s Road” from Wawel Castle to Main Square. You can eat your dinner in one of the antique carriages… Traditional old polish cuisine using old recipes and charred beech wood grill. Dishes prepared over a beech wood grill using old polish and Italian recipes. (Restauracja z atmosferą średniowiecznego Krakowa, (To restauracja z włoskim temperamentem i krakowską atmosferą! na „Drodze Królewskiej” z Wawelu do Rynku Głównego. Można tu zjeść kolację w jednej z karet, wśród uskrzydlonej łodzi Zapraszamy w kulinarną „podróż” do staropolskich smaków. rybackiej i góralskich sań. Ogródek z fontanną na dziedzińcu.) Kuchnia polska, włoskie pasty…i tiramisu!) Courtyard garden and medieval atmosphere. “Cherubino” ul.św.Tomasza 15, Krakow, tel. 012/4294007, ul.Grodzka 35, Kraków, tel. 012/4213999, tel./fax. 012/4294147 tel./fax. 012/4302113 www.cherubino.pl www.podaniolami.pl

“…that honor goes to Cafe Camelot, which might just be my favorite cafe in the world (..go for apple pie)” David Streitfeld “The Washington Post Travel” Summer restaurant-boat located in the bend of the Vistula River at the foot of the Wawel Castle. Coffee house – gallery with the most romantic summer garden in Cracow. Sitting on its upper deck, you will recall long-forgotten charms of life The magical atmosphere of that place and original interiors dating back on the Vistula River. to the XIII century. (Galeria – kawiarnia z wyjątkowym ogródkiem w Zaułku Niewiernego Tomasza. (Letnia restauracja na statku na Wiśle u stóp Wawelu. Jest miejscem spotkań niezwykłych ludzi, koncertów, kabaretów i recitali. Siedząc na górnym pokładzie odnajdą Państwo dawno zapomniane uroki życia W galerii na piętrze wydarzenia artystyczne i wystawy fotograficzne. nad Wisłą.) W piątki kabaret „Loch Camelot”)

Galar “Pod Aniołami” Zakole Wisły, On Fridays Loch Camelot Cabaret. Bulwary Wiślana vis a vis Hotelu Sheraton, Cafe Camelot” ul. św.Tomasza 17, Kraków, tel. 0691 44 04 03 tel.012/4210123 www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post AUGUST 2008 CL5

FORK OUT

Hawełka ul. Rynek Glowny 34, +48 (0)12 422 0631, www.hawelka.pl Opened as a colonial goods store in 1876, Hawełka began its career collecting exotic and unique fla- vours to add to its culinary hub on the main Market Square of Krakow. Transforming into a restaurant, Hawełka’s reputation grew to such proportions that by the end of the 19th century it became an official supplier to the royal courts of Vienna and Greece. Hawełka also became a meeting place for the intelligentsia who came here to drink, talk, and sample the unique delicacies on offer - including their speciality of a unique bread dish made famous by a certain Earl of Sandwich.

These days, rather than continue trailblazing Krakow’s culinary culture, Hawełka has seemingly decided to underline its history by serving only traditional Polish cuisine. I have to admit it’s rather surprising that Hawełka has not decided to really juice its rich lore and bring back all of those exotic U Vincenta ingredients. Really, who would say no to a bit of Algerian cauliflower or Westphalian sausage? Cer- tainly not I. ul. Bożego Ciała 12, +48 012 430 6834

So while the selection of food is similar to what you might find in any high quality Polish restaurant in Krakow, extra special attention is paid to the quality of ingredients. During my recent trip to Hawełka If you spend a fair amount of time buzzing around Krakow’s Kazimierz district, the likelihood is you’ll I ordered the kotlet schabowy (pork cutlet) with boiled potatoes and fried cabbage. While the ideas have heard of U Vincenta. The four-table cubby hole of a restaurant on Józefa has, over the years, presented here are certainly rather ancient, it’s the fresh ingredients and the execution that gives gained a cult-like status among Krakow residents and tourists alike. Indeed, having been personally Hawełka bonus marks. Not a great meat lover, I’ve always had a small schabowy phobia, as the frustrated many a time on so-called quiet nights by the discovery of only five customers but no empty breadcrumb batter is usually rather soggy and oily with the meat somehow managing to seem like it tables, the addition of the restaurant’s newest venue on the classy, rejuvenated section of Bożego hadn’t seen a drop of moisture in eons. Luckily the pork at Hawełka was fresh, juicy and tender. The Ciała was certainly a welcome one, and one that fits nicely with the regenerated feel of the street. potatoes were as fantastic as boiled potatoes can get (not very, but that’s hardly Hawełka’s fault), and the fried cabbage was to die for with plenty of dill and parsley keeping things interesting. I also On this otherwise busy Sunday afternoon in Kazimierz, during the district’s annual Jewish festival, sampled the bigos (cabbage stew), which again was another success. The mild cabbage melted in your we were surprised by the lack of clientele on our visit. We were greeted by an empty restaurant and mouth, and the chunks of pork and sausage inside had an intense and deep flavour. a waitress who didn’t look as if she’d been disturbed by an order for a fair while. Unperturbed, we picked our spot and scanned the menu – it turned out to be extensive and populated by a mix of tra- Overall Hawełka makes for an excellent introduction to Polish classic cuisine, and, with its emphasis ditional and innovative. As a bonus, you can mix and match pierogi with a range of sauces, bringing on traditional service and the elegant turn of the century interiors, guests will taste a slice of Krakow’s an element of creativity to a dish that, by all accounts, is pretty straightforward. We decided to take history along with their meal. a walk on the wild side - well as wild as you can get eating pierogi – by going for the unorthodox. I plumped for the Caesar’s (minced lamb, rosemary and thyme) with, strangely, a Mexican-style salsa. Dana Dramowicz My partner opted for the Mexican-style pierogi filled with chicken and kidney beans, accompanied by a more standard butter option. Cafe Botanica Soon, out came the Caesar’s pierogi, fresh, piping hot and not the slimy, greasy affair that is often passed off at many pierogarnias. For those that enjoy their food with a kick but find much of Polish ul. Bracka 9, +48 (0)12 4228980 cuisine lacking a little hit, the Mexican salsa will not disappoint – spicy enough to satisfy even the most fanatic of hotheads. Whether it goes well with lamb or not is, perhaps, questionable, but it will Oh Botanica, Botanica. How I loved thee. Then you opened your “orangery” and ignored me sitting be sure to have you stopping between pierogi to put out the fire in your mouth. at my table. In the end I had to serve myself and I felt betrayed... hurt even. I had been visiting you regularly for months. But now with this new conservatory area, you had a new attitude, a new menu, The Mexican-style chicken and bean pierogi were also excellent. A little chili provided a South of the new servers. Today, many months later, I decided to give you another chance, a chance for a real Rio Grande-style kick that, like the Mexican salsa, will satisfy those with a palette more accustomed reconciliation. I decided, for old time’s sake, to sit in your older section with the beautiful wrought to spicier fare. Both the lamb and chicken and bean options provide great twists on the traditional iron trees and furniture. It seemed a more intimate place to strike up our old romance. norm and represent a more exciting option for those that have become a little tired of the minced meat or potato and cheese standards. The two options chosen on the day were among the most But I shouldn’t have expected so much, Botanica. As I sat down, none of your staff gave me a menu. I expensive on the menu and, with a couple of bottles of mineral water, the bill weighed in at a very had to get it myself. My friend’s dish arrived very quickly - a slice of delicious quiche-like salmon tarte reasonable 40 złoty. We were mildly tempted by the prospect of pierogi filled with fresh strawberries (I admit I stole a bite). I was forced to watch my companion begin, relish, and finish their lunch - how as a dessert but stopped short, deciding there was only so much pierogi dough to be consumed in a cruel of you Botanica. Only 15 minutes later did you give me my meal - spaghetti with garlic olive single sitting. oil and sun-dried tomatoes. In the menu, you had described this as a dish for those watching their waistline, but it turned out to be an enormous bowl of no-effort pasta with plain (not garlic) oil and a In this regard, U Vincenta does have its limits – you won’t enjoy a three-course meal there, although small handful of sun-dried tomatoes and herbs. Is this some sort of cruel joke? I know I shouldn’t have perhaps it would be wrong to expect to. Krakow has enough faux-Italian (and other generic interna- expected more than was written in the menu, but I had faith in you Botanica. I really expected to see tional cuisine) restaurants trying to be something they’re clearly not, so it’s refreshing to see that, more - perhaps a few chunks of garlic... some pesto... anything. You kept me waiting 25 minutes for despite the flashy new locale, U Vincenta sticks to what it knows best – friendly but no-frills service, my food, but what were you doing? Surely not just cooking pasta and throwing those raw ingredients reasonable prices (that haven’t been hiked up despite the new location) and excellent, wholesome on it. And to really bring home your feelings towards me, you didn’t bring me a bill. You just made pierogi that, by catering to both adventurous and traditionalist clientele, provide enough variety to me wait until I gave up and walked to the till myself. keep people coming back time and again. The added bonus of the take-out option is certainly enough to ensure that this satisfied customer will be returning. Maybe I’ll be back again, Botanica. But this time, I’ll just have a snack and a coffee... and I’ll bring my new lover.

Kris Grzegorczyk Dana Dramowicz CL6 Krakow Post AUGUST 2008 www.krakowpost.com

spotlightCoke Live Music Festival

Images courtesy of Coke Live Music Festival

The Prodigy Timbaland

rriving at the end of August to While some of the acts are as poppy as the other bands and DJs are expected to come With three big arenas – the Main Stage, Coke make the summer seem that soda that sponsors the event, the festival on board in the weeks leading up to the Stage and Burn Stage – a camping area, much longer, the Coke Live tends to maintain a good balance between festival. special DJ events, and the “Coke Clinic” Music Festival is that one last the mainstream and the independent, where you can take a break and even get a hurrah before it’s back to school but not too edgy, genres, throwing in a For those who have come from afar and massage, those attending the two days and - or the office - and out of the hodgepodge of Polish bands to keep things would like to hear some local talent, the nights of the festival will have their hands sun.A Originally taking place on the Błonia unpredictable. 2008 is a promising year for Polish artists featured include Indios Bravos, (or should we say ears) full. Tickets are Common in the centre of town, last year the festival, as huge stars such as Missy El- The Car Is On Fire, Sokół feat. Pono, Hurt, priced at 150 złoty for both days (165 with the festival switched locales to the massive liott, Sean Paul, Timbaland, and The Prodigy Marika, Pezet, and Afromental. Also taking camping), or 85 for each individual day, and grounds of the Polish Aviation Museum, at Al. have all signed up to play. The latest big act, to the stage will be the winners of the Coke can be found, along with more information, Jana Pawła II 39, allowing for an even larger announced at the time of printing, are Brit- Live Fresh Noise contest, Apple Tree. at the festival’s website: array of festive fun. ish indie rockers Kaiser Chiefs, and several www.livefestival.pl

22.08.2008 (Friday) 23.08.2008 (Saturday) MAIN STAGE - TIMBALAND, MAIN STAGE - THE PRODIGY, KAISER CHIEFS, HURT MISSY ELLIOTT, SEAN PAUL, COKE STAGE - INDIOS BRAVOS, MARIKA PEZET, AFROMENTAL, APPLE TREE, COKE STAGE - SOKÓŁ feat. LACK OF EOINS PONO, THE CAR IS ON FIRE, JAR- BURN STAGE - ANGELO MIKE, ECKI, LAIME PILNIGA, SWEETSALT ELECTRICITY, MADAME TINT, BURN STAGE - NEVERAFTER, WOOKIE, CHRIS JAXX BEATS FRIENDLY, DUDEKK, SYMPATIQUE, DIO Image courtesy of the National Museum in Cracow www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post AUGUST 2008 CL7

postedThe Month in Events provided by Cracow-life.com

SPECIAL EVENTS of fruitful branches of the family tree. An 33RD MUSIC IN OLD KRAKOW FESTIVAL extra for a space at the adjoining campsite. epic painted panorama is taking shape in the See “Music Box” on CL 8. All in all, it should be massive! Also featur- UKRAINE AND POLAND - TWO NEIGHBOURS garden, and sculptors are due to touch down when - 15th to 31st August ing reggae raggamuffin Sean Paul. See the Historically, Ukrainians and Poles haven’t on the 14th, trying their hands at famed where - Various Spotlight on CL6 for more details. always been best of friends, but these days, characters from author Zofia Kossak’s oeu- when - 22nd to 23rd August old prejudices are beginning to crumble. vre. Concerts spice things up in the evenings, 6TH PIEROGI FESTIVAL where - Polish Aviation Museum, Al. Jana As it goes, the two countries are booked and guests keen to stay the night and Sophisticates may sniff, but for most Poles, Pawla II 39 as joint hosts of Euro 2012, and this August enjoy the hiking in the surround- pierogi are cherished as the comfort food of there’ll be a ten day celebration of ing Beskid hills can stay at the choice, much like pasta is by the Italians. EXHIBITIONS Polish and Ukrainian culture, right Kossaks’ own hostel, Koss, This weekend’s the perfect time to try the here on the Market Square. Largely within the grounds of the divisive dumplings. Besides regional chefs SENSUALIA aimed at the young, the event will manor. The panoramas will be competing for the crown of best pierogni- Highly anticipated, “Sensualia” is a se- be showcase pop stars from both on display throughout August. cian, there’ll be jolly concerts of folk and ries of projects presented in an exhibition countries, plus fashion shows, when - Throughout August pop bands. The location is yet to be con- at Galeria Starmach, organised by eight culinary fairs and much more where - Kossak Manor, Gorki firmed, but it is likely to be the Mały Rynek, students from the Jagiellonian University’s besides. Wielkie (Near Cieszyn) just behind St. Mary’s Basilica. curatorial studies department. The multi- when - 1st to 10th when - 15th to 16th August media exhibition examines different ways August FESTIVALS where - To be confirmed to infiltrate the senses and their ways of where - Main Market mutually influencing each other, stimulat- Square 9TH FESTIVAL OF COURT COKE LIVE MUSIC FESTIVAL 2008 ing each of the senses one by one. Amongst DANCES Coke Live returns with a 24 carat bling-fest the featured artists are Dorota Buczkowska, PYROMACHINA: Historians often remark of beats, courtesy of Timbaland, Missy Monika Drożyńska, Ersatz, Eliza Galey, Miho INTERNATIONAL that Polish magnates Elliott and The Prodigy. Coke-heads Iwata, Elżbieta Jabłońska, Koji Kamoji, To- GALA OF had more in common should fly over to the epic Aviation Museum, masz Malec, Małgorzata Markiewicz, Dariusz PYROTECHNICS with Indian where all the action will be kicking off. One- Paczkowski, Joanna Rajkowska, Jadwiga Sa- The Błonia Common has seen Maharajahs than day ticket passes come in at 85 złoty, 150 for wicka, Leon Tarasewicz, and the “audiovisual some epic events over the West European the full two days. Campers can pay 15 złoty group of friends” known as RH+. years. There was Krakow’s first grandees. And this year, football tournament in 1906, the acclaimed Court the return of Pope John Dance Festival will have Polish Paul II to the city in 1979, a special Indian accent, for the cracking concert by Celine with troupes from as far Foreigners Dion in 2008... O.K, the last away as New Delhi join- one may be a bit controver- ing in the extravaganza. sial, but in the first weekend As always, there will be of August, we’ve got something plenty of traditional Euro- Learn Polish in the heart of Krakow to make up for Madame Dion’s pean court dances to enjoy as croon assault. Indeed, on Saturday well, and performances will be taking 2nd, pyrotechnical wizards from across Eu- place at Wawel Royal Castle, Villa Decius, rope will be descending on the common for the Barbican and on the Main Market Square. No registration fee and free internet some flaming frolics. Prepare to trip the light when - 2nd to 10th August fantastic. Starts 7 p.m. both nights. where - Various when - 2nd to 3rd August Unique, custom-designed study where - Błonia Common 28TH INTERNATIONAL SUMMER programs including Survival Polish, FESTIVAL OF ORGAN MUSIC and professional courses in KOSSAK SUMMER OF ARTS Krakow boasts some of the finest churches Business & Law Enforcement Polish Wayfarers wandering the Beskid foothills in Poland, and here’s a chance to enjoy a su- should take a pit-stop at the old Kossak perb blend of music and architecture. August Manor in Górki Wielkie. The Kossak clan had sees the tail end of this much-loved festival, a knack of producing dazzlingly talented art- with two performances still to come. On Come and see why we have been featured in or interviewed by ists, and the current generation is laying on Thursday 7th at 7:30 p.m. you can catch over half a dozen newspapers, radio and television stations… a Summer of Arts, echoing the achievements Jakub Pankowiak, who’ll be playing at St. Florian’s Basilica, just off Plac Matejki (ul. Warszawska 1). This is where Karol www.learnpolish.net Wojtyła (future Pope John Paul II) got his first Cracovian parish, and Mr. Pankowiak will Tel/Fax +48 12 429-67-88 be playing Bach and lesser known classics. Mobile: +48 (0) 606-997-990 Finally, on Thursday 14th, Belgian maestro Serge Schoonbroodt will be performing at the magnificent medieval church of the Holy Cross. He’ll be starting a little earlier at 4:30 p.m., and he’ll be playing 16th and 17th century gems. Kossak Summer of Arts when - 7th & 14th August where - Various CL8 Krakow Post AUGUST 2008 www.krakowpost.com

here in the cellar gallery for many years. light. Champions of painting, sculpture and Besides the avant garde aces, you’ll also photography respectively, these artists - all find Socialist Realist cuts. These come with alive and kicking - are well worth getting to earnest titles such as “Table of an Activist,” know. Drop in for a memorable encounter by Jan Swiderski. with some Belgian beauties. when - Until 14th September when - Until 28th September where - Palac Krzysztofory, Rynek Glowny 35 where - International Cultural Centre, Rynek Glowny 25 HENRYK STAŻEWSKI (1894-1988) If Abstract Art is your bag, look no further. JEWISH ARTISTS IN KRAKOW 1873-1939 The National Museum is shining a light on The Nazi invasion may have sounded the one of the towering figures in Polish modern death knell, but some of the most celebrated art, Henryk Stażewski, pioneer and champion names in pre-war Poland were Jews: Julian of Abstractionism. Stażewski was in the thick Tuwim, Marian Hemar, Bruno Schulz, of it right from the word go, organising Arthur Rubinstein to name but a few. Malevich’s first Polish exhibition in 1927, All these men had their detractors, yet this and lending his support to dozens of other exhibition reveals that in the cultural orbit, artists who were prepared to take the Ab- it wasn’t just poetry and music in which stract plunge. Stażewski’s own canvasses Polish Jews shone. Held in Krakow’s oldest endure as classic cuts from the interwar surviving synagogue, this exhibition comes Eric Fischl The Krefeld Project: “Bedroom. Scene 7, After the Tantrum” avant garde. under the wings of the Historical Museum of when - Until 15th August CRACOVIAN ART AFTER 1945 when - Until September 21st Krakow, and some 150 works of art can be where - Galeria Starmach, ul. Wegierska 5 The Historical Museum is in the throes of a where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 savoured. multi-million złoty face-lift at the moment, when - Until 31st October WOJCIECH WEISS but there’s still plenty to take a peep at. CONTEMPORARY BELGIAN ART where - Old Synagogue Museum, The Art Nouveau era saw an explosion of For the rest of the summer, art lovers can Krakow’s finest gallery is proud to present ul. Szeroka 24 talent on the Polish scene. Wojciech Weiss catch this intro to post-war Cracovian art. three exceptional Belgians (yes, Hercule was a key figure, yet in this exhibition, we A key figure - now an international icon - Poirot is now yesterday’s man). The ICC is ANDRZEJ WAJDA see the artist turning his back on the self- was Tadeusz Kantor, who launched the showcasing a three-pronged promotion of - ETHNOGRAPHIC INVENTORY professed decadence of his earlier works. legendary “Grupa Krakowska II” in this very Belgian artists, with Janke, Luc Ledene Andrzej Wajda is best known to the world Showcasing paintings from his so-called building back in the 50s. The group exhibited and Guy Vandenbranden in the spot- as one of the brightest lights in Central “White Period,” this exhibition is a charming complement to the museum’s permanent collection on the star of the age - Stanisław Wyspiański. XXXIII International Festival when - Until 31st August of Music in Old Krakow where - Szolajski House, ul. Szczepańska 11 Fronted by Capella Cracoviensis, COLOURS OF THE WORLD Krakow’s pre-eminent orchestra, Pauza began life as a bar where arty folks the Music in Old Krakow Festival is stroked their beards (and stoked their bellies one of the highlights of the summer with liberal quantities of beer). Now com- season. Joined by a throng of in- mandeering the better part of this town- ternational ensembles, the Capella house on the Royal Way, Pauza is the proud will be hosting concerts at some of owner of a club, a gallery, a shop and even the city’s most magnificent venues, a miniature cinema. Photography exhibitions from medieval salt mines to Baro- are firm favourites, and throughout the sum- que basilicas. mer you can catch Maciej Duczynski’s “Colours of the World,” which seems straight This year we’ve got a heady blend from the pages of National Geographic. of genres, taking in Byzantine, That’s being hosted in the bar, whilst Renaissance, Eastern Rite and even upstairs, the Pauza Gallery is preparing for Gypsy musical traditions. There’ll September’s “Nihon,” a Japanese excursion also be excursions into the orbits of by Tomek Niewiadomski, beginning on ever-popular composers such as Mo- September 6th. zart, Schubert, Vivaldi, Brahms and when - Until 4th September Beethoven, and a dash of choral where - Pauza, ul. Floriańska 18 music to boot.

JAN BULHAK (1876-1950) Pencilled in on the guest-list thus This is the second part of an exhibition far are Berlin’s Stabrawa Ensemble, chronicling the career of “the father of Cuarteto Casals from Madrid, Italy’s music box Polish photography,” Jan Bulhak. Part one L’Arte dell’ Arco, the Trembita revealed a dreamy, rustic world of manor Choir from the Ukraine, and many houses and market towns. However, part more. Pick up a full programme two begins in 1944, when Bulhak’s world was from the Culture Office at ul. Jana falling apart. Repatriated from his home city 2, or simply go online and check of Wilno, which was absorbed into the USSR Capella’s official website. as Vilnius, he witnessed the devastation of Warsaw and then struggled to find a place in Above: Mr. Roby Lakatos, known as “the Devil’s Fiddler,” the new, communist Poland. is Hungary’s foremost gypsy musician. Born in 1965, when - Until 9th September www.capellacracoviensis.pl he is descended from Janos Bihari, “the King of Gypsy where - Museum of the History of Violinists”. Mr. Lakatos will be taking centre stage at the Photography, ul. Józefitów 16 when > 15th to 31st August Philharmonic Hall on Saturday 23rd August, where he where > Various will be joined by Capella Cracoviensis and conductor Maciej Tworek. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post AUGUST 2008 CL9

European cinema. Still going strong in his 2004 by the late and great Chris Schwarz, eighties, he won his fourth Oscar nomination the centre offers fresh insights into the in 2008, complementing his lifetime achieve- 700 year legacy of Jews in Poland. Besides ment Academy Award in 2000. This exhibition concerts, lectures and book launches, the sheds light on a lesser-known strand of the backbone of the enterprise remains the director’s career. A longtime amateur eth- permanent exhibition, “Traces of Memory,” nographer and painter, Wajda presents here a vivid evocation of Jewish heritage in the the fruits of many decades interest in the region. Unmissable. field, ranging from documentary film footage when - Throughout August & September to objects collected on his travels. where - Galicia Museum, ul. Dajwor 18 when - Until 31st October where - Ethnographic Museum (Esterka FIRST STEP... House Branch), ul. Krakowska 46 Art enthusiasts from across Poland have descended on Krakow to catch this show. The ETHNOGRAPHIC JOURNEYS reason? Well, this is the first major collection This August it won’t be necessary to leave of Western contemporary art to touch down town to do a spot of globe-trotting. Krakow’s in the city. The hero of the hour is Rafael Ethnographic Museum is laying on a series of Jablonka, owner of the eponymous Jablonka workshops for children, transporting young- Gallery in Cologne. As one of the most dy- sters to far-flung corners of the world. Head namic collectors on the international scene, Andrzej Wajda - Ethnographic Inventory on over for encounters with India, the Wild he’s amassed an extraordinary collection, a Wonders” is a dazzling slice of open-air West, and Poland itself a hundred years ago. princely portion of which is now on show at theatre. Performed in the courtyard of the FILM when - Throughout August the National. Decide for yourself whether Esterka House, a branch of the Ethnographic KINOBRANIE: SUMMER PICKS AT POD where - Ethnographic Museum Warhol is wunderbar or a waste of space. Museum, this brand new work comes from BARANAMI (Esterka Branch), ul. Krakowska 46 Likewise hot names such as David LaCh- one of Poland’s most innovative troupes. This huge palace was a focus for patriotic apelle, Mike Kelley and many, many more. Blending music and magic, the production is Poles during the 19th century era of parti- EXHIBITIONS AT BUNKIER SZTUKI when - Throughout 2008 a heady brew that’s sure to intrigue theatre tion, when the owner styled himself as a The “Bunker of Art” is always bubbling with where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 aficionados. Performances start at 7 p.m. on would-be king. Nowadays, you’ll find one of bright ideas. Drop in for some artistic inspi- 21st & 22nd August. the city’s most quirky cinemas. Throughout ration, and maybe a drop of beer at their OPERA, THEATRE when - 21st to 22nd August August, cinephiles can tuck in to a celluloid outdoor bar. where - Ethnographic Museum (Esterka banquet, with dozens of films for just five when - Throughout August & DANCE House), ul. Krakowska 46 zloty a pop. Kinobranie begins with a week where - Bunkier Sztuki, Pl. Szczepanski 3a of Bollywood and other exotic cuts. Week THEATRE: JARMARK CUDÓW 2, starting on the 8th, comes under the TRACES OF MEMORY - FAIR OF WONDERS title “The Queen, The Empress and Other There’s no better starting point on the Jew- Taking its cue from the colourful medieval Ladies,” with Stephen Frears’s tribute to ish trail than the Galicia Museum. Founded in fairs of Europe’s great cities, the “Fair of Her Madge, as well as Zhang Yimou’s The adebostan k

OPERA, THEATRE & DANCE CL10 Krakow Post AUGUST 2008 www.krakowpost.com

Empress and Bergman’s Persona. Next up, (15th-21st). Rounding off August there’s an starting August 15th, we’ve got an other- Asia-themed week, featuring directors from the worldly flavour, with films such as The Great Eastern continent, plus Wes Anderson’s The Silence, Pan’s Labyrinth, and The Illusionist. Darjeeling Limited thrown in for good measure. Rounding things off, there’s a week of cult when - Until September 4th classics, including Jarmusch’s Coffee and where - Kino Mikro, ul. Lea 5 Cigarettes, Python’s Life of Brian, and Wong Kar Wai’s In the Mood For Love. LIVE MUSIC Drop by for a full programme. when - Throughout August OPEN MIC NIGHT AT SZAFE where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Glowny 27 The Open Mic Night is a monthly event where the organisers invite performers to get on A SUMMER KINDERGARTEN OF stage and share their music! All levels and CINEMA attitudes are welcome. Cafe Szafe (located &INE4ASTE3INCE Parents looking for something fun for the one block from Massolit Books) provides a family need look no further than Kino Kijow, cozy stage, full PA system, and good beer... A which is hosting some classic children’s films good time is guaranteed, whether you come throughout August. Every Wednesday you can to play or just to listen. From 7 to 10 p.m. catch an animated ace, complemented by when - 3rd August readings of fairy tales and all kinds of other where - Cafe Szafe, ul. Felicjanek 10 interactive surprises. Perfect for a rainy day... KLEZMER CONCERTS: IRA & KLEZ- when - Every Wednesday throughout August MERS where - Kino Kijów, al. Krasinskiego 34 Irena Urbanska, the grande dame of Polish Klezmer, has just released her eighth album, POLISH FILMS IN ENGLISH Jewish Wedding, and fans of classic Klezmer During the 1950s, Poland emerged as one of can catch her several times a week live at the most dynamic forces in European cin- Ariel, down in Kazimierz. Spielberg was so ema. That said, finding copies of the classics captivated by the clarinetist in this band - - with English subtitles - can be tricky, let Leszek Lic - that he gave him a cameo role alone watching one on the big screen. But in Schindler’s List. Drop into Ariel to reserve hold on, as Kino Pod Baranami has come to your ticket. the rescue with this swagbag of current cuts when - Throughout August and golden oldies. On alternate Tuesdays, where - Ariel, ul. Szeroka 18 they’ll be screening some 24-carat gems, beginning on August 6th. First up is Andrzej CLUB MUSIC Wajda’s Chronicle of Amorous Incidents, set in pre-war Wilno. Then on Tuesday ROBOTROPICS@KLUB KIJÓW August 19th we’ve got the classic comedy DJ Diabot presides over a night of house, Sex Mission (Seksmisja). The programme will electro and minimal sounds in part one of continue in September so watch this space Robotropics on the 1st August. If you’ve yet for more info. to discover the futuristic interior of Kijów when - Alternate Tuesdays Klub, now is the perfect opportunity to step where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Glowny 27 on down. Catch part two of this party, a fortnight later on the 15th. CINEMATIC JOURNEYS FOR SUMMER when - 1st &15th August The cult Kino Mikro has its own feast of films where - Kijów Klub, Al. Krasinskiego 34 over the summer months. They’ll be focusing on a different part of the world each week, begin- MIDWEEK PARTIES IN AUGUST ning with a journey along the Danube, offering Don’t know Where2b (www.where2b.org) in recent hits from Germany, Austria, Romania and August? Check out Prozak on Mondays, Minis- Croatia. Next up, the Czechs will keep you in terstwo on Tuesdays, Frantic on Wednesdays check (yes, terrible pun, 8th - 14th), followed and Cien on Thursdays. by a Scandinavian selection from directors such when - Throughout August as Lars von Trier and Roy Anderrson where - Various Clubs

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Kompozycja architektoniczna by Henryk Stażewski (1960) www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post AUGUST 2008 CL11

lastStars & Puzzles page

ASTRO SELTZER SUDUKO

To play: Complete the grid so that every row, column and every 3 x 3 box contains the LEO (Jul 23 - Aug 22) digits 1 to 9. There is no guessing or maths You’re not quite the one-person act you’d like to be. Hating accountability involved, just use logic to solve. and despising people who are challenged in the imagination department, you run with ideas, knowing that everything will be ultimately splendid. Other people, however, have been adding up the złoty and are not happy with the result: you’ll have to do some fancy footwork this month to keep your potentially rebellious team in place.

and-bolts types accuse you of living in a questioned by the end of the month as VIRGO (Aug 23 - Sep 22) fantasy world. Ignore them. Keep your you begin a process of measuring what you Your genius for “reading” head where it belongs: in the clouds. give against what you get. The final sum people and situations will Thinking your big thoughts out loud will will not be a happy one. prove to be a lifesaver yet remind us that the world needs more con- again. Focused on a new versation and fewer knee-jerk reactions. TAURUS (Apr 20 - May 20) project, you’ve been ignoring A trifle unsettled by col- your bread-and-butter interests, incorrectly CAPRICORN (Dec 21 - Jan 19) leagues’ lack of interest in assuming that they’ll continue to totter along If the world knew how what you’re doing, you’re all on their lonesome. Ironically, it’s when secretly fretful and anxious in danger of blowing things circumstances are completely mad that you you were, perhaps it would out of proportion; people do your most creative thinking. Poland shares be nicer to you! Although are simply pre-occupied with your sign of the zodiac and you often feel you present a brave face in their own mundane stuff and are not out that you and your country are temperamen- all circumstances, you’ve been harbouring to get you! Momentary paranoia aside, tally one and the same. some rather odd fears lately. This month, you’ll be blowing people’s minds by Sep- confusing situations will start to make tember when one of your brilliant ideas LIBRA (Sep 23 - Oct 22) sense and, like fellow Capricorn Jacek becomes a reality. People think you’re wonder- Majchrowski, it will become as clear as ful. “And, why not?” you’re ice that you’re going to be around for the GEMINI (May 21 - Jun 20) apt to say. But, your talent long haul. With your life continuing in for reeling in admirers can an orderly fashion, you as- work against you. An outra- AQUARIUS (Jan 20 - Feb 18) sume that there’s no reason geously agreeable person, The recipient of a thorough to scratch beneath the sur- you tend to say “yes” without considering ego-massage, you’re float- faces. This could be mistak- the consequences. This month, you could ing on air, quite pleased with en for the sort of complacency (smugness, be spending some time wriggling out of an yourself. That is all quite perhaps?) that drives more sensitive types assumed agreement that has nothing to do wonderful; but, are you ready for the next to distraction. If - or, when - your nearest with your best interests. You’re a pretty step? Your currently sedentary, predictable and dearest seem unaccountably distant, it clever character and there should be no lifestyle promises to be turned on its head could be that they think you’re taking them trouble sneaking away. if you accept a juicy new offer that is com- for granted. ing your way. Only an idiot would say no. SCORPIO (Oct 23 - Nov 21) CANCER (Jun 21 – Jul 22) Despite your reputation for ruthless PISCES (Feb 19 - Mar 19) You promise the moon to determination, you are still Innately philanthropic and clinch a deal, but things a bit of a softy who needs kind-hearted, you nonethe- could get wildly interest- to know that there are less refuse to be played for ing when it finally hits you things you can count on: a fool. Some people, un- that you have to deliver the like babcia’s pierogi. Well, fortunately, are so dismally goods. As per usual, you’ll these days grannies own thick-headed that they have pull through at the eleventh hour, but the nightclubs and cavort with no idea that you’ve been keeping tabs on stress involved is likely to outweigh satis- toy-boys. This month, you’ll be a bit of a them. You’re about to draw a few lines faction. Why have you been so distracted fish out of water, grasping for some sort in the sand that will, hopefully, keep op- lately? Is it love or indigestion? of familiarity. Remember that you’re an portunists at a safe distance. On a more old hand at psychic manipulation and will positive note, a bit of that extra weight Krakow Post’s astrology column is for entertain- have everyone eating out of your palms in you’ve been trying to shed will magically ment purposes only, and the Post is not responsible for any consequences incurred as a result no time. disappear into thin air. of this column. Written by Kerwin McLeister,

[email protected] SAGITTARIUS (Nov 22 - Dec 20) ARIES (Mar 20 - Apr 19) People continue to be at- Boundlessly enthusiastic SUDOKO SOLUTIONS tracted to your judgement- about relationships of all free insights and observa- sizes, shapes and colours, tions. And, if ideas were you feel that you’re start- cash, you’d be giving Bill ing to “fit in” with other Gates a run for his money. But more nuts- people. This emotional vibrancy will be

Star-Signs drawn by Dominik Nawrocki write here! write now!

Been there? Come back and get another one! The funniest, Done that? most informative, bar, restaurant or hotel review wins a trip Got the t-shirt? for two back to the city! www.cracow-life.com

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