March 14-27, 2014 l #130 l Price 1€. Prishtina Sub-par pitch: Investor apathy: Prishtina isn’t Few want to put ready for FIFA their money into Insight football. page 2 . page 4

kosovo serbian railways

actual ticket Serbia’s rogue rail Why no one seems to care about ’s unauthorized Kosovo train service. page 7

Culture: A love l Opinion: Kosovars are wary of tribunal - with good reason. PAGE 11 affair with Kosovo’s l Region: Media target Dacic ahead carbohydrates. page 16 of snap elections. page 12 2 n March 14-27, 2014 n Prishtina Insight PageTwoprishtina stadium

“The stadium is in a Why Prishtina isn’t ready for FIFA play miserable condition. There are no Even though it ended in a draw, the March 5 friendly also likely will be held in Mitrovica. The reason is pretty toilets for spectators because the match with Haiti was a big win for Kosovo football. To simple: Prishtina’s stadium is well below national and club has transformed the premises many, though, it may have seemed odd that Kosovo’s international standards, said Eroll Salihu, secretary of into business areas and now in debut in FIFA-sanctioned play happened in Mitrovica Kosovo’s football federation. Complicating matters is all over the stadium there are - not Prishtina. The next friendly match versus the the the fact that the stadium is run by the city’s football restaurants that rent the spaces.” Turkish national team, Fatih Terim, expected in May, club, Prishtina. — Petrit Collaku — Eroll Salihu from the editor Sending Moscow a message

Even before Russia invaded expect increased interaction with Ukraine, it seemed almost laugh- Russian business and society …. We able that Kosovo would do any- also cannot ban companies from stadium thing to line the pockets of an offering cheap prices in public ten- oligarch linked to Vladimir Putin. ders based on their ethnicity.” But In the last Prishtina Insight we Selimi’s reasoning was flawed. Adem Jashari stadium (Mitrovica) – Capacity reported that Kosovo was poised The problem has nothing to do to do just that: KEK was preparing with ethnicity. The issue is whether to award a contract to repair Ko- Kosovo should do anything to ben- sovo A, the oldest power station in efit a country that has consistently Elsewhere the country, to a company owned worked to undermine its existence The head of sports by Alexei Mordashov, a billionaire and prosperity. 17,500 seats department within who reportedly has Putin’s ear. In the past Kosovo has success- What it has: What’s been done: What it still needs: Ministry of Youth, With the exception of help- fully blocked goods from Serbia Two locker rooms, 750,000 euro in Improvements to the Sports and Culture rennovated of toilets, rennovations from the grass and a new track. and Sports, Iber Alaj, ing build Deputy Prime Minister and Macedonia as a very power- facade, and a covered Ministry of Youth, Sports said 3.5 million euro in Behgjet Pacolli’s wealth through ful political weapon. Kosovo has seating area that’s free and Culture ahead of the European commision lucrative con- also extended visa restrictions on of leaks. Haiti match. funding is helping six tracts during countries that do not recognise Ko- stadiums in Ferizaj, Drenas, Gjilan, Peje, the 1990s, Rus- sovo’s independence. Mitrovica and sia has been Making it difficult for Rus- Gjakova, which need anything but sians to do business in Kosovo Prishtina stadium (Prishtina) - Capacity: reenovations. Alaj said a friend to Ko- would seem to be a very consist- Prishtina’s stadium is not included in the sovo. Nate ent policy - especially now that project because it is In 1999, Tabak the US and EU are preparing sanc- privately run. immediately Editor-in-Chief tions against Russia for its bad be- after the NATO havior in Crimea. Last week, The 16,200 seats bombing cam- Guardian speculated that the US What it needs: What’s been done: Prishtina gave 200,000 paign, Russian troops occupied could target Mordashov and oth- New seats, locker rooms, The Ministry of Youth, euro in 2013 to cover the Prishtina International Airport. It er Russian Oligarchs in forthcom- track, and fixing the Sports and Culture west side of the stadium sparked what could have been a ing sanctions. leaks above the stands. invested 150,000 euro in 2013. in the field in 2010. very disastrous confrontation with For the time being KEK still NATO troops. Since then, Russia has not signed a contract with the has been Serbia’s most powerful consortium that includes Mor- ally in keeping Kosovo from gain- dashov’s Power Machines, pend- ing true legitimacy on the interna- ing a dispute in the procurement Prishtina Balkan Investigative Reporting Network • tional stage. process. With this delay, Kosovo Insight Mensa e Studenteve, first floor, 10000, Prishtina, Kosovo Strangely, Deputy Foreign Min- has opportunity to figure out how it • Phone: +381 (0) 38 24 33 58 • Editor-in-chieF: Nate ister Petrit Selimi welcomed news can stop the deal legally - and show Tabak •Staff: Jeta Xharra, Marcus Tanner, Edona Peci, Petrit Collaku, of this impending Russian deal. He in a small way that Moscow’s bad Parim Olluri, Nektar Zogjani and Arijeta Lajka. • Design: Trembelat • Prishtina noted at the time that on account behavior won’t go unchecked here Insight is supported by the Norwegian Embassy, Rockefeller Brothers Fund of better relations with Serbia, “we either. and the Balkan Investigative Reporting Network. Prishtina Insight n March 14-27, 2014 n 3

• Copy / Print / Scan / Fax • Shpejtësia : 55 / 65 / 75 ppm • ARDF • Duplex • Finisher • High Capacity Tray • Garancioni 60000 print. 4 n March 14-27, 2014 n Prishtina Insight

Source: Investment Promotion ECONOMY Agency of Kosovo Nation Top €340 investors mil 2008-2013 €216 €196 €188 mil mil mil €115 mil €63 €20 €20 mil mil mil

germany switzerland UK austria USA netherlands italy Investors 40Cases of swine flu have been detected in Kosovo, according to the the University Clinical Centre, the country’s main hospital. So far one person has died keep clear and seven people are being treated. Officially known as H1N1, swine flu can be more serious than typical flu strains as it is more likely to infect the lungs. of Kosovo Concerns about corruption, red tape Three convicted in and weak rule of law mean few investors Kosovo 2.0 attack want to take a risk in the country. By Edona Peci court might revoke this conditional sentence and By Nektar Zogjani Some problems can have enor- An EULEX court has con- they would have to be sent mous consequences. In 2012, the victed three persons for to jail. With the nearest Ikea stores in UK-owned Kosovo-based marble storming a launch party of The case concerns Greece and Bulgaria, Danish fur- company Fox Marble saw its share the Kosovo 2.0 magazine, events on December 14, niture maker JYSK - just outside price drop by a third on the London damaging property and 2012, when a group of Prishtina, in Fushe Kosove - thrives Stock Exchange after its explora- attacking staff. around 30 people stormed as the go-to destination for Koso- tion licences were suddenly re- Albert Kastrati, Gani a magazine launch party. vars seeking smart Scandinavian voked. Latifi and Driton Dili were The indictment states goods at low prices. “One investor told me that, af- found guilty of violating that the three accused, But JYSK’s beginnings were far ter this news, no one would ever the equal status of resi- together with a group from easy. Fatmir Zymberi built the invest in Kosovo again,” Fox Mar- dents of Kosovo, prevent- of unknown persons, store in 2004 on what he believed ble’s CEO, Christopher Gilbert, said ing or hindering a public entered the Youth and was land given by the municipality. at the time. Ultimately, Fox Marble meeting and damage to Sport Centre in Prishtina, But, he was later told that it was pri- regained its licenses and its share movable property, EULEX forcefully prevented and vate property, and had to pay up. price recovered. But damage had said Monday. hindered the holding of a “After the whole building was been done. The three were each public meeting, destroyed completed, the owner [of the land] sentenced to six months goods and assaulted a demanded a very high sale price Investment flight: for violating the equal Kosovo 2.0 staff member. for JYSK,” Vigan Salihu, director of After peaking at 440 million status of residents, four The three were Kosovo and Macedonia operations euro in 2007 - the year before Ko- months for hindering a protesting against the for JYSK, recalled. “It took time to sovo declared independence - FDI public meeting, and four launch of the magazine's recover and slowed the company’s for 2013 as of September reached months for damaging latest edition, entitled success,” he added. only 205 million euro, according to property. "Sex", which focused on Stories like Zymberi’s are all too Kosovo’s Central Bank. However, they lesbian, gay, bisexual and common in Kosovo, where corrup- While the final FDI for 2013 has were given suspended transgender issues. tion, weak rule of law and cumber- yet to be released, it is on track for sentences for two years. But, the offense of some bureaucracy are part of the a similar level to 229 million euro, This means they will not inciting national, racial, cost of doing business. which was the figure for 2011. have to spent any time in religious or ethnic hatred These factors are also blamed - While the government blames jail, but are not allowed to discord or intolerance was in part - for the large drop in foreign the global downturn for the fall-off commit any law viola- withdrawn during the direct investment that Kosovo has in FDI, investors, foreign embas- tions in the upcoming two trial, as it was covered by experienced since it declared inde- sies and business associations say years. But, if they do so the the Law on Amnesty. pendence in 2008. conditions on the ground are also Prishtina Insight n March 14-27, 2014 n 5

Economists wary over public sector’s higher salaries. Kosovo's government an- €440.7 nounced increased salaries mil €365.8 €393.9 for over 80,000 public sector €366.5 mil workers. The salaries will rise mil €287.4 mil from 25 to 50 percent by April, mil €228.6 €204.9 according to Prime Minister mil mil A Hashim Thaci. However, some economic experts say that the government should focus more €15 on cutting the high unemploy- mil ment rate. Ibrahim Rexhepi, an economic expert, said that the government had to cut spending in education, energy italy norway 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 and health to fund increased salaries.

Limaj faces new indictment factors discouraging investment. Turkish firms operate in the coun- Foreign in Kosovo. EULEX has raised a “American businesses are try, including Limak, which is part new indictment for corruption- wary because of what is perceived of a consortium that owns the pri- direct related charges against former as a high level of corruption and vatised power grid. Another runs investments minister Fatmir Limaj and four poor implementation of the rule of Prishtina International Airport others. EULEX prosecutor, Jo- law, which presents a challenge for through a long-term concession hannes Pickert, raised a second Source: further foreign investment,” the US agreement. Central Bank of indictment against Limaj and embassy in Prishtina told Prishtina Bernard Nikaj, acting Minister Kosovo B the other defendants, accusing Insight. of Trade and Industry, said Kosovo them of “organised crime, mis- The largest amount of foreign has made progress in becoming appropriation in office, entering investment has come from Germa- more investor friendly. He blamed into harmful contracts, abusing ny – worth 340 million euro since the decline in foreign investment official position or authority, 2008 - although Turkey has out- on global economic problems. accepting bribes and other cor- paced Germany in recent years. "The global economy has in- ruption related offences.“ Three Matthias Kieslerit, Germany’s volved everyone in a crisis and defendants are alleged... to deputy ambassador in Kosovo, foreign investment should be seen have manipulated tender pro- said German firms were dissatis- in a broader context,” Nikaj said. cedures, engaged in giving and fied “with the efforts that the Gov- However, he acknowledged that receiving bribes and obstruct- ernment of Kosovo has made ​​to problems in the local court system ing evidence with regard to the fight corruption and organized weighed on the economy. conduct of two tenders under crime”. The 2014 Doing Business report the authority of the Ministry of A 2013 survey by the German by the World Bank noted some Transport.” Chambers of Commerce in Central progress in Kosovo. It ranked the and Eastern Europe, uniting more country in 86th place worldwide, President urges justice for than 1,600 German businesses, up 10 places from 2012. wartime rape victims. Atifete ranked Kosovo in 18th place out The report saw Kosovo move Jahjaga established a national of 20 countries in terms of invest- up in several categories: ease of council for survivors of wartime ment appeal. The survey found registering a business; dealing with sexual violence. Fifteen years that Kosovo’s main weaknesses construction permits; registering after the end of the war, no of- included bureaucracy, a general property. However, the report saw ficial data exists on how many lack of economic strategies and Kosovo drop slightly in the “pro- women were raped during weak rule of law. tecting investors” category. C the 1998-99 conflict. Human Turkish investors also are Domestic investors also appear Rights Watch said that it found becoming wary of Kosovo, Muze- cool about Kosovo’s economic “credible accounts of 96 cases beg Esin, secretary general of the prospects. According to World of sexual assault by Yugo- Kosovar-Turkish Chamber of Com- Bank data, Kosovars are investing slav soldiers, Serbian police merce, warned. more money outside the country or paramilitaries in 1999. The “We do not know precisely why than foreign investors are putting authorities promised to amend some investors have withdrawn in. current laws to recognise rape from Kosovo, but the judicial sys- “Foreign investors have hesi- victims’ rights. But minister of tem may be one element,” he said. tations about serious additional work and social welfare Nenad “Trials are delayed - and the investments in Kosovo when they Rasic has said the financial other problem is that the execution see that our own people are not implications of such changes of court decisions is also delayed, investing in our country,” said Al- on the current legislation “we which investors find risky,” Muze- bin Kurti, leader of the opposition still don’t know the implica- beg added. Levizja Vetevendosje (Self-Deter- tions for the Kosovo budget Nevertheless, Turkish busi- mination Movement) party, and because we don’t have an idea nesses have established a strong chairman of parliament’s Foreign of the number of wartime rape presence in Kosovo. About 450 Policy Committee. victims,” he said. 6 n March 14-27, 2014 n Prishtina Insight

Mendres Kuci, spokesperson of the Economic Chamber of North West Macedonia, also anticipates a boost to business in Macedonia. Nation “We see the lack of a highway as an obstacle to trade with Koso- vo and, although we already have a big surplus in exports, there is Benefits of surely room for improvement,” Kuci said. “The highway will make highway transport easier for companies that already export there, and make access to the Kosovo mar- to Macedonia ket generally much easier,” Kuci added. The experience of the recently completed Ibrahim Rugova High- questioned way from to Kosovo sug- gests that the stronger trading part- While the government maintains that the 600-million- The additional trade ner benefits most from such roads. Since 2009, when the project euro road is crucial for Kosovo’s economy, some fear it’s a accompanying was officially inaugurated, Albani- questionable investment. the new Ibrahim an exports to Kosovo have grown Rugova highway has by 165 per cent. benefitted Albania Kosovo’s exports to Albania By Nektar Zogjani to cut the time to around an hour more than Kosovo. have also grown, but by a lower or even less. figure, of 100 per cent. As one of Kosovo’s largest export- The Kosovo stretch of the high- However, Nikaj argues that Ko- ers, Pestova, makers of Vipa potato way will be built by Bechtel-Enka, sovo’s experience with Macedonia chips, would seem an obvious ben- the firm that built the recently com- Big trade gap will be different. He believes Mac- eficiary of the projected highway pleted highway to Albania. edonian exports have peaked, to Macedonia. After all, the com- The new road is to be complet- so that the new highway will not pany sells about 10 per cent of its ed three-and-a-half years after the make much difference. He says annual produce there. contract is signed, though when €245 million that domestic producers could re- But, Bedri Kasumi, Pestova’s this will take place is unclear. Macedonia’s exports to place many of the goods currently owner, does not anticipate a sig- No one disputes that a new Kosovo in 2013. imported from Macedonia, and nificant boost in exports because highway will make the trips he believes they will do, as they of the highway. quicker and easier. The question €34 million strengthen their position. “It is not the road that delays the is whether Kosovo will benefit eco- Kosovo’s exports to Lumi Abdhixhiku, executive transport of goods but the border,” nomically enough to justify such a Macedonia in 2013. director of the think tank Riinvest, Kasumi says. “The new road will large investment. says the highway is a luxury, not a not affect transport costs.” The government of Hashim necessity. While acknowledging that Thaci, on the heels of the recently Uneven benefits “It is like going on holiday to he would welcome the ability to completed highway to Albania, Paris, when you have not paid the transport his goods faster, Kasumi maintains that businesses and the rent on your house, your children’s and other Kosovo businesses face economy in general in Kosovo will Albania school fees and nothing else is go- greater challenges when trying to reap key benefits. ing well, either,” he said. “Holiday- improve trade with Macedonia. "The road will help domestic 165% ing in Paris is indeed a wonderful One key obstacle is the lack an producers increase exports to Export growth to Kosovo thing - but everything behind it integrated border management Macedonia and find other markets, since 2009. remains blocked,” he said. system, which would allow for a like Greece and other countries,” Abdhixhiku said the highway single border and customs check- the acting Minister of Trade and Kosovo to Macedonia, on top of millions point with Macedonia. Industry, Bernard Nikaj, said. of euro that the government has “There are other barriers pre- Critics, however, contend that a 100% spent on roads generally - the larg- venting trade with Macedonia. new highway will do little to close Export growth to Albania est sum of which went on the high- One is that our producers are Kosovo’s enormous trade deficit since 2009. way to Albania, has diverted mon- smaller, and our products do not with Macedonia - and may widen ey from other important areas. have the same trademarks as those it. “Focusing in this way has left from Macedonia,” Kasumi pointed Macedonia is the second larg- nian businesses will do well from aside addressing the major eco- out. est exporter to Kosovo, exporting the new road. nomic needs that Kosovo has Only 90 kilometres separate around 245 million euro worth of “Our businessmen who export today, which are the private sec- Prishtina and , yet traveling goods in 2013. Kosovo exported to Kosovo have long been urging tor, the judiciary, education and between the two capitals can eas- only 34 million euro worth of the construction of the highway,” healthcare,” he said. ily take up more than two hours. goods to Macedonia over the same Pranjic said. “As a consequence, over the The 600-million-euro highway year. “It will certainly benefit them last four years, economic growth on the Kosovo side and a smaller Suzana Pranjic, spokesperson and have a positive impact on in the country and the creation of road on the Macedonian side, esti- for the Macedonian Ministry of trade in general. Kosovo is a very new jobs has only been symbolic,” mated to cost 70 million euro, aim Economy, anticipates that Macedo- important partner,” she added. he concluded. Prishtina Insight n March 14-27, 2014 n 7 Cover In the north, Serbia’s trains still reign Rail service between Mitrovica and is an illegal incursion into Kosovo, officials say.

By Valerie Hopkins Alien invasion “This train is beyond the con- There is no cafe at the railway sta- trol of the railway authorities of KOSOVO DID NOT APPLY tion in the northern half of the di- Kosovo,” the Deputy Prime Min- The Community of European Railways, vided town of Mitrovica. There is ister and Kosovo’s chief EU nego- which lobbies Brussels on behalf of 75 train not even a kiosk to buy a newspa- tiator, Edita Tahiri, told Prishtina networks on the continent, told Prishtina per to read on the train. Insight. Insight it had consulted with Kosovo on the However, there are trains. A train has run regularly from matter, but that Kosovo had not submitted a Since last October, the station in Serbia to Zvecan in north Kosovo formal application to join. has been the em- since June 2008. But it was only barkation point for a twice-daily extended to North Mitrovica last train service to Kraljevo in Serbia. October. For 392 dinar (€3.30), passen- Railway travel was not men- gers can get to Kraljevo in three- tioned in the EU-brokered agree- and-a-half hours, after which they ment last April, on the “normali- can catch a train to and sation” of relations between reach Belgrade. Kosovo and Serbia, Maja Kocijan- The only existing agreement Wrangle after independence As the newly refurbished Rus- cic, a spokeswoman for EU foreign on rail travel is a memorandum The train from Serbia to Zve- sian-built train pulls out of Mitro- policy chief Catherine Ashton, told of understanding dating back to can started running in June 2008 vica, it passes the vast, dilapidated Prishtina Insight. It has not been 2003 between , after the EU rule-of-law mission in Trepca mine complex, and then an discussed in the dialogue between the predecessor to Serbian Rail- Kosovo, EULEX, took control of the enormous dump where two pick- the two parties. ways, and what was then known northern borders of Kosovo from ers are searching for anything that Serbia has long maintained an as UNMIK Railways – rail travel in UNMIK, following Kosovo’s dec- that could be sold for a few coins. official and unofficial presence in Kosovo then being in the hands of laration of independence. From It continues, reaching a top northern Kosovo. Serbian mobile the UN mission to Kosovo. 2000 to 2008, UNMIK railways op- speed of 70 kilometers per hour, providers have operated there for This stated that the two rail- erated all railway lines throughout hugging the Ibar riverbank and years – illegally, according to Koso- way systems would not operate Kosovo. stopping at small stations that vo officials. The EU talks included on each other’s territories. While under UNMIK control, look as if they were built in Austro- an agreement to allow those pro- Tahiri calls the new train ser- the railways were considered a Hungarian times. For the pension- viders to continue operating. vice to Mitrovica an “illegal inter- protected institution, partly be- ers and students on the train one At the same time, the EU-led vention” and says it could hinder cause they helped ethnic minori- Friday, it is a normal way to stay talks have moved the north out of progress towards normalization ties in Kosovo to stay connected to connected to relatives or travel the orbit of Belgrade’s direct rule. of relations with Serbia. each other. between home and work or study. Mostly notably, Serbs in northern Although a Serb-run train ser- A “Freedom of Movement But, in the eyes of Kosovo of- Kosovo took part in last year’s local vice has operated in northern Ko- Train,” operated twice a day from ficials, since Serbia’s - elections, which the government sovo since 2008, and no attempts the southern town of Han i Elezit way company, Zeljeznice Srbije, in Prishtina organised. However, have been made to stop it, Tahiri near the Macedonian border to both owns and operates the train, the train system has moved in the says that, “without implementing Lesak in the far north, and twice it is an illegal incursion into the ter- other direction, with Serbia ex- the current agreements, we will weekly from Han i Elezit to Gra- ritory of a sovereign state. panding its services in Kosovo. not continue dialogue”. canica in central Kosovo.

continues on page 8 8 n March 14-27, 2014 n Prishtina Insight Cover

Trains in Kosovo: a short history

1874: First railway 1980: Kosovo railway 1999: Cross-border August 1999-March line, connecting Fushe lines carried about 3 trains suspended. 2001: Railways Kosove with Mitrovica, million tons per year. lines under control begins service. of KFOR, who made substantial repairs to bombed or destroyed infrastructure.

serbia subotica negotin

novi sad zajecar

belgrade nis pozarevac leskovac stalac lazarevac lapovo krusevac Incursion: kosovo- serbia podujeva uzice Serbian State border not active Railways operates kraljevo mitrovica two trains daily vushtrri prishtina between North Mitrovica and zvecan not active fushE kosovE Kraljevo. Kosovo kosovo- serbia drenas officials say this is border vrbica being done illegally. klina

bijelo polje xErxe peja not active

continued from page 7 At that time, the train drivers ity with the Integrated Border Man- officer was present. Last time, she under his jurisdiction, as Serbia were from Canada and Kenya, and agement agreement, its personnel said, the Serbian police checked considers it an internal administra- a ride cost just €0.50. team “conducts regular checks on her documents, but before that, no tive boundary, but is monitored by In February 2008, when Koso- the trains and its passengers at the one looked. police. vo declared independence, Serbs train station near Lesak in close co- On the way back from Kraljevo “Once the train crosses the ad- in the north took control of the operation with the Kosovo Border to Kosovo, members of Serbian po- ministrative line, members of the line for a short period, before UN- Police and Kosovo Customs, as at lice again got on board to examine Kosovo Police are allowed to check MIK reclaimed the 50km north of the both Crossing Points.” passengers’ documents. Members the train as well, but that rarely Mitrovica to the border in March. Almost all of the train’s seats of the Kosovo police then jumped happens,” Banovic said. In June 2008, UNMIK ceded were full as it slowed near Lesak, out of a jeep and onto the train, Kosovo’s first railway line, be- responsibility for the northern the last stop before Serbia. Several walked through without talking tween Han i Elezit and Mitrovica, border to EULEX and daily trains members of the Serbian police to anyone, and got off. opened in 1874, when Kosovo and resumed. come around to check identifica- The chief of the Serbian border much of today’s southern Serbia A EULEX spokesperson told tion. One woman taking the train police, Nenad Banovic, confirmed was part of the Ottoman Empire. Prishtina Insight that in conform- indicated surprise that a police that the border does not come Today, the stretch from Fushe Ko- Prishtina Insight n March 14-27, 2014 n 9

2003: Memorandum Dec 2005: March 4, 2008: June 2008: UNMIK October 2013: of Understanding Resumption of UNMIK reasserts passes the baton to Zvecan-Kraljevo line between Yugoslav Prishtina-Skopje rail control over the the Police, Justice extended to Mitrovica. Railways [which travel. Kosovo railway line. and Customs sectors became Serbian to EULEX, meaning Railways] signed with UNMIK had no more UNMIK Railways. influence over events on the administrative boundary and resumed service in the North.

Unused: Trainkos, Kosovo’s state kosovo railway, only utilizes part of its rail network. and serbia: belgrade Its sole international connection severed nis pirot is with Macedonia. rail links serbia kosovo prishtina peja vranje tabanovcE bujanovac

presheva

lipjan skopje

ferizaj hani i elezit March 16. Thaci said real profits End of the line kacanik would come with the free flow of Kosovo’s railways are ham- goods trains. “Goods coming from pered by the fact that the compa- Europe now have to go through nies are not members of any major Serbia and then through Macedo- international railway organiza- nia before they reach us by train. tions. kosovo We need a direct line to Europe,” The Community of European he said. Railways, which lobbies Brussels InfraKos did not respond to in- on behalf of 75 train networks on quiries about whether it intended the continent, told Prishtina In- sove, near Prishtina, to Mitrovica sees the physical infrastructure of to stop Serbian Railways from us- sight it had consulted with Kosovo does not function at all. the trains. ing the line. on the matter, but that Kosovo had At a depot in Fushe Kosovo, The two companies say they EULEX told this newspaper not submitted a formal application four trains intended for the line have received no payment from that stopping trains did not come to join. The same goes for OTIF, the stand idle. Kosovo Railways’ union Serbian Railways for use of its under the mission’s mandate, and inter-governmental organization leader, Sabet Thaci, says the trains property, the railway tracks. ultimate authority over the issue for . are meant to run from southern “They don’t give us any money; lay with TrainKos and InfraKos. Tahiri says the topic of railways Kosovo all the way to Lesak, just this is an illegal occupation, even The CEO of InfraKos, Agron and air travel will be raised with as they did until 2008. an invasion,” Thaci told Prishtina Thaci, said he has asked the Ko- Serbia in the coming rounds of the Kosovo Railways took over Insight. “They should adhere to the sovo government to stop the train, EU-led dialogue. from UNMIK in 2008 and, in 2011, 2003 agreement.” but no action had been taken. “What there is [about rail- in compliance with EU directives, According to Thaci, the north- He also said he had no informa- ways] is illegal interference into the company split into TrainKos, ern portion of the line will come tion about a handover of authority the state of Kosovo. That has to which manages transport opera- under Kosovo’s control after Ser- for the railways in the north follow- be addressed in the dialogue,” tions, and InfraKos, which over- bia’s snap general elections on ing the Serbian general election. she said. 10 n March 14-27, 2014 n Prishtina Insight

Kolegji Riinvest Rruga Lidhja e Prizrenit nr 42 10 000 Prishtinë, Kosovë Tel: +381 (0) 38 224 322 [email protected] Lectureship Opportunities at the Department for Staffordshire University MBA Programme at Riinvest College

Background of the Department Staffordshire University

Staffordshire University is a well-known institution Managing Strategy / Corporate and Global Strategy / in Kosovo. During the last decade more than seventy Managerial Finance Kosovan economists have completed their Masters International Finance and PHD studies in the UK (at Staffordshire), creating Qualifications: PhD, DBA or equivalent degree in a critical mass of well-educated economists in this the relevant field required. Previous teaching experi- country. These graduates can be found in all walks of ence and experience in business management is life, in private and public sector, creating a difference preferred. Qualified candidates should have excellent in our society. Riinvest and Staffordshire University verbal and written communication skills, strong in- developed cooperation in education and research terpersonal skills and a commitment to high-quality since 1998, which leaded to the establishment of the teaching for Staffordshire University at Riinvest department for Staffordshire University Programmes College. The candidate should also demonstrate It’s hip not to be square at Riinvest College through franchise agreement for commitment to helping our students succeed in business management Bachelor and MBA awards. their studies. The level of engagement is 18-24 hours These programmes are taught in the English delivered in the time-frame of 4 to 5 days. Also, there (or a rectangle). language and lead to a UK award. is a possibility for supervising MBA thesis. The MBA courses are taught on intensive basis over a Availability: Through current and next semester short period of time. Candidates from any European Application Process: Please submit a Let PI design an ad country, as well as those in Kosovo, may apply. The motivation/cover letter along with a copy of your programme will cover the travel and cost of stay and CV/Resume, transcripts and a list of publications pay a competitive fee per hour. and references to this e-mail address: diana.lekaj@ to meet your needs. riinvest.net Responsibilities: For more detailed information regarding the program Teach courses at MBA level in the following areas: and other related questions, please feel free to [email protected] People Management and Development / Marketing / contact me at the above e-mail or call 038 224 322 Prishtina Insight n March 14-27, 2014 n 11 Opinion Send us your thoughts to [email protected]. Kosovo needs to take out its own trash

iplomats in Prishtina and abroad have been busy this week negotiating with the Kosovo govern- ment about the creation of a tribunal to deal spe- JETA XHARRA cifically with war crimes committed in Kosovo during the late 1990s. DThe public is largely skeptical about this, and its skepticism ment, SAA, which the country is counting on in 2014. is justified. Kosovo has seen its share of special international ini- Why not use the same pressure to get Kosovo to address tiatives and missions since the end of the war, aimed at bring- war crimes properly? Kosovars have never received a ing justice to Kosovo victims of all ethnicities. The previous and straightforward demand from Europe to prosecute their own ongoing efforts - most recently by EULEX - have failed to live up war criminals, perhaps owing to an assumption that this is not to expectations. even worth trying. This assumption is unfair. It is worth trying, The push for this tribunal in fact just shows how little faith especially given how little international missions have accom- the EU has in its own mission, EULEX, which in turn just under- plished over 15 years in bringing war criminals to justice. scores the flawed premise of this new venture. Kosovo’s government is complicit in this problem. The Minis- What makes this new endeavour “special” is that the Tribu- try of Justice spent the last year negotiating with the EU on how nal is to be set up outside Kosovo, possibly in Belgium, or maybe to limit the work of the Kosovo Special Prosecution Office, SPRK, in The Netherlands, on the grounds that witnesses do not dare to the unit tasked with undertaking war-crimes cases against sen- come to Kosovo to testify. At least, this is what Kosovo ministers ior Kosovo politicians. But it seems to have shot itself in the foot, Jeta Xharra are being told in meetings with these diplomats. as its efforts to undermine the SPRK only bolstered the public’s is Executive What undermines this argument is the successful prosecu- desire to see this tribunal created. Director of tion of the Medicus organ-trafficking case in Kosovo. It included The end result is that the public in Kosovo is observing the BIRN Kosovo, testimonies by around 20 witnesses in four different countries, creation of yet another busybody entity, which it is claimed will the publisher including Moldova, Turkey, Israel and Canada, supplied exclu- solve problems. Based on the results of the last 15 years, the pub- of Prishtina sively through video link. Those witnesses did not have to come lic has good reason to expect little. Insight. to Kosovo to testify. Other cases have utilized video links to this end as well. MARKETING Advocates of this new tribunal naively suggest that witness- es somehow will enjoy better protection if they testify in a for- eign tribunal. Witness intimidation is a problem in Kosovo, but it also extends to protected witnesses outside Kosovo. A case in point was the death in 2011 - officially ruled a suicide - of the war- crimes witness, Agim Zogaj. He died in Germany, not Kosovo. Recent war-crime cases also have seen protected witnesses change their testimonies suspiciously. The problem with cur- rent approaches to witness protection is that even a witness kept abroad can be pressured via his extended family in Kosovo. It is not clear how a foreign tribunal would address this problem. A new tribunal, like EULEX and its UN predecessor, would not address what people in Kosovo need: a strong, homegrown court that deals with war crimes and other serious crimes. A new court would simply mean more money spent on creating an administration that starts from scratch and leaves little be- hind in terms of institutional know-how, enabling locals to learn how to conduct war-crimes and corruption cases professionally. A strong local court would be difficult to set up in Kosovo, considering the challenges with witness protection and cor- ruption, but it is possible and necessary. The EU managed it in Serbia, using pressure and the enticement of EU membership. Swiss Hospitality, Comfort and Design Following a decade of EU efforts, Serbian courts are ready to deal with Serbia’s own war crimes. It is an example of how interna- +381 (0)38 729 888 (landline) tional political pressure can be used constructively. Instead, we hear that Western countries are telling the Ko- +386 (0)49 764 000 (mobile) sovo leadership that if they refuse to accept the tribunal, it will www.hotelgracanica.com hinder the signing of an EU Stabilisation and Association Agree- www.facebook.com/HotelGracanica 12 n March 14-27, 2014 n Prishtina Insight

Former Croatian PM jailed for Region nine years After nearly two were found guilty of siphoning From the latest news and analysis CRO years on trial, a court off 70 million kuna (more than 9 from around the Balkans, visit in Zagreb jailed Croatia's former million euros) of public money premier, Ivo Sanader, for nine for the party through a marketing www.balkaninsight.com years for corruption on Tuesday. agency, Fimi Media, between 2003 The verdict, read out by Judge and 2009. The court said Sanader Ivana Calic, said Sanader had had organized a group of people, Correction: In its January 31 edition, Prishtina Insight erroneously reported that that “completely demolished people's including Ratko Macek, Mladen US Congressman Dana Rohrabacher sent a letter to the FBI and the FEC, asking them to faith in the governments institu- Barisic, Branka Pavosevic and investigate Edi Rama, who at the time was the leader of Albania’s Socialist Party and is tions... [and] created an image of Nevenka Jurak, with the purpose now also PM. In fact, the letter was addressed to the Attorney General and the FEC, not politicians as above the law". He of committing a crime. All except the FBI. We apologize for the error. Furthermore, since the story was published, Shirley Cloyes DioGuardi, Balkan Affairs Adviser for the Albanian American Civic League, has writ- and his former political party, the Sanader and Macek pleaded guilty ten a response. Read it at http://bit.ly/N5K7oR. Croatian Democratic Union, HDZ, earlier in the trial.

SERBIA Progressives turn media fire onto Dacic As the election nears, the opposition is using their media allies to demolish the Prime Minister’s standing, and rid themselves of the Socialists as partners in government.

By Bojana Barlovac The Progressives deny the accusations, citing the need to fight organized crime as one the biggest issues The face of Serbia’s outgoing Prime Minister has been that Serbia needs to confront. “Everyone is equal be- gracing the pages of almost every issue of the the coun- fore the law,” Aleksandar Vucic, the leader of the try’s tabloid newspapers recently. Progressive Party and the Deputy Prime Minister, said. The articles are slandering the Serbian Social- No one disputes that the fight against organized ist Party leader, Ivica Dacic. “Dacic squandered his crime is important. However, many question the chance,” “[Alleged drug lord] Saric’s moles in a panic,” timing of recent events, especially given the fact that and “Dacic under investigation?” are just some of the Dacic’s alleged links to the Saric clan have been known headlines linking the Prime Minister to a wanted, no- to the Progressives for more than a year. torious alleged drug boss, Darko Saric. Many analysts believe the Progressives are de- The headlines have had an effect and mention liberately orchestrating a campaign against Dacic in Dacic’s alleged connections to one of Saric’s associ- order to damage the Socialist Party’s poll ratings and ates, Rodoljub Radulovic, nicknamed Misa Banana. push them out of the next government. Dacic says the media are pursuing a vendetta Arrests are not common in Serbian election cam- against him. “The media reports on me are worse than paigns, though Dacic himself ordered some during the those on [Osama] Bin Laden,” he complained last week. last general election campaign, in 2012, when, as inte- Soon after the election date was set in late January, rior minister, he controversially ordered the arrests of Branko Lazarevic, Dacic’s former chef-de-cabinet, was a number of Kosovo Albanians. detained by police and interviewed in court regarding Jelena Milic, director of the Belgrade Centre for his alleged connections with the Saric clan. Euro-Atlantic Studies, said that Progressives stood Dacic’s fellow Socialists stood up in the PM’s sup- behind the media campaign against Dacic. port, accusing the Progressives of trying to force the “It is shameful, because the Progressives did not Socialists out of the next government. mind it [Dacic’s alleged connection to the Saric gang] Prishtina Insight n March 14-27, 2014 n 13

Serbian fighters help 'Russian Albania nabs suspected brothers' in Crimea al-Qaeda recruiters

A group of Serbian Itar Tass. Malisic, who says his par- Seven people, includ- is also known as Aburrahman Balla, SRB volunteers, self-styled ticular group of fighters is called "the ALB ing two imams, were has drawn attention with his fiery members of the Chetnik movement, Wolves", says they arrived in Crimea arrested on Tuesday, suspected sermons posted on YouTube, call- has arrived in the Crimean port of on the invitation of Russian fighters - of recruiting fighters for al-Qaeda- ing on Albanians to join Islamist mili- Sevastopol on a mission to support and wanted to repay the Russians for affiliated groups fighting in the -Syr tants linked with al-Qaeda in Syria. the Russian side in the disputed their support for Serbia in the Balkan ian civil war. The seven suspects A 33-year-old Albanian, Anri Maliqi, Ukrainian region. “Our aim is to sup- wars of the 1990s. “During the wars in are accused of recruiting a number who died fighting in Syria, used to port the Russian people in the name Yugoslavia, a lot of volunteers fought of Albanian citizens to fight in the attend Balla’s mosque, which is lo- of the Serbian people,” a Serbian vol- on the Serbian side, so we, as their bloody civil war in Syria. The sus- cated in a poor suburb of Tirana. A unteer named Milutin Malisic said. brothers, have decided to help them. pects include the imams of two growing a number of Muslims from “We are representing Chetnik move- That is why we are here,” Malisic con- Tirana mosques, Genci Balla and the Balkans are being drawn into the ment, which is similar to the Russian tinued. It is not clear how many Serbs Bujar Hysi, who are believed to be sectarian conflict raging in Syria, Iraq Cossacks,” he told the Russian agency have headed for Crimea. ringleaders of the group. Balla, who and, increasingly, Lebanon.

The Faceoff

Serbia’s parliamentary elec- tions on Sunday are shaping up to be a contest between Deputy PM Aleksandar Vucic and PM Ivica Dacic for prime minister.

Ivica Dacic Leader of the Serbian Social- ist Party, Dacic was a party spokesperson and MP during Milosevic’s “Greater Serbia” regime. When democratic changes emerged, Dacic stayed away from the political scene until his death in 2006. He took over Milosevic's shattered Socialist Party and began leaving behind its war-mongering ideologies. His party has also moved Serbia The media continues to smear Dacic over allegations connecting him to drug boss, Darko Saric. towards EU membership, and was also one of the first to shake Hashim Thaci’s hand before - although they knew all about it from the “I am in favour of the Brussels agreement but when “normalizing” relations start,” Milic told Prishtina Insight. not at the price of devastating everything else in between Kosovo and Serbia The Prime Minister’s supposed ties to the Saric Serbia,” Milic said, referring to alleged outside pres- last April. gang were leaked in February 2013, documenting sures to keep the duo in office. meetings between Dacic, Lazarevic, and Radulovic. Recent polls suggest that the Progressives can Aleksandar Vucic Dacic confirmed that he had met Radulovic sev- count of 44 percent of the votes while the Socialists Vucic has long been building eral times in 2008 and 2009 when he was Interior will come second with 13 percent. up his image as Serbia’s own Minister in the previous government. But claimed Filip Svarm, editor of Vreme, says putting the Vladimir Putin. The hard-line he did not know that Radulovic was a suspected Dacic case back into the spotlight will lower the “Greater Serb” and loud foe of criminal, and he insisted that no state secrets had Socialists’ ratings and boost the Progressives po- the EU transformed into the been revealed. sition. moderate, reformist cham- This scandal initially shook the government but “At home, the government is gaining popularity pion of Serbia’s EU member- Dacic survived and both he and Vucic later insisted and credibility among people and internationally,” ship. Vucic has constantly that inter-party relations in the governing coalition Svarm said, mentioning Serbia’s progress with its accumulated more power and remained cordial. Dacic then in April signed an EU membership negotiations. more responsibility, leading historic agreement in Brussels with Kosovo on the According to him, Dacic might even end up as anti-crime drives, conduct- “normalization” of their relations, while Vucic was “Serbia’s Sanader,” in reference to the former Croa- ing difficult talks with the EU tackling corruption. tian Prime Minister, Ivo Sanader, who was jailed over Serbia’s EU integration Milic believes powerful Western interests want- following two high-profile corruption trials, which and over Kosovo, and push- ed both Dacic and Vucic kept in power during that began after he resigned as Prime Minister in July ing for internal economic and period. 2009. judiciary reforms. 14 n March 14-27, 2014 n Prishtina Insight piguide The great burek crawl

By Arijeta Lajka Burek Studentore Across from the University There’s no shortage of burek in of Prishtina, the name is self- Prishtina or any Balkan cities for explanatory. Burek studentore is that matter. With burek- a favorite amongst students, just tores in every corner ask any student in Prishtina. of the city, the menus With a small, traditional are limited but there’s venue, with only a few nothing like fresh eat tables. Burek Studentore phyllo dough combined has the classic burek options, with a cup of Ayran. Here are spinach, meat and cheese. I went some of your best bets: with the cheese burek, the dough was flakey and stuffed with > Furra Lumi cheese and there’s no question Near Menza e Studenteve, as to why this place is a classic it’s hard to get burek at Lumi’s amongst students. because it’s almost always Address: On George Bush sold out. The first time I went to Street, across from RTK. Lumi’s for burek, there was no burek left. On my second trip > Picadilly early in the afternoon, spinach Picadilly’s burek is less crispy The burek was moist but not too bureks were completely sold and has more of a oily, dough-like oily, flaky on the outside, but soft out and so I settled for cheese. texture. At Picadilly’s, I opted and chewy near the center. The When the burek arrived it was for the meat burek. Although it’s cheese was salty, but fresh. The baked to a golden crisp, incred- very greasy, the meat was flavor- location of Venezzia is also ideal, ibly puffy and not too oily with ful, juicy and satisfying. The bu- since it’s surrounded by some of just the right amount of feta rek was also baked right in front Prishtina’s best stores and cafes. cheese. Lumi’s bakery was so of me. In most burektores, bureks Hours: popular that they expanded and are heated up from whatever “When the burek arrived it > Everyday 7:00 a.m.- 10 p.m. created another bakery across was leftover in the morning. Most was baked to a golden crisp, Rexhep Luci, near Luan Haradinaj, the street from the original. The customers take their burek to Prishtina new bakery’s design contains go because there are only a few incredibly puffy and not Destan Burektore rustic European elements and tables and the aroma of burek too oily with just the right Located near Newborn, can get overwhelming. A local Destan Burektore is a tiny venue traditional furnace. Lumi is also amount of feta cheese.” famous for their variety of des- customer told me, no need to try where you’ll have to take your serts, chocolates and homemade anymore because this is the best burek to go. Destan offers a more pite. You can also enjoy a coffee burek in town. traditional styled burek that’s with your burek, an option many Hours: thin, flakey, and extremely oily. burektores lack. > Monday through Saturday: 7 The burek was soft and the meat Hours: > Monday-Saturday: a.m.- 4p.m. Location: Agim Rama- burek was full of flavor and 7:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m; Sunday: 7:00 dani Street, next to Hotel Sirius, baked goods besides their cooked to perfection. a.m. - 6:00. p.m. Address: Rr. Anton Prishtina bureks. At Venezzia, I initially Hours: Monday-Saturday 7:00 Cetta, Prishtina. (Second location Venezzia ordered the spinach burek, but a.m. - 6:00 p.m. Address: Luan on Eqrem Cabej, the continuation of In the midst of the center of it was sold out once again. I then Haradinaj, Prishtina (next to Central Bill Clinton in the centre.) Prishtina, Venezia offers many went with the cheese burek. Room) Prishtina Insight n March 14-27, 2014 n 15

Kosovo wares go worldwide Newly launched balkanspring.com brings together some of the country’s best designers of clothing, jewelry and crafts in one online store. It includes well-known names like filigree master Krenare Rakovica and under-the-radar ones such as Valbona’s Organic FYI Soap. Shipping is available throughout the world and within Kosovo.

01 Pallet Lounge WHERE Pallet lounge is an newly opened, exquisite cafe restaurant that offers TO PICK UP a variety of multicultural dishes and drinks. It is located right across the AUK University in the outskirts PRISHTINA of the city, surrounded by nature. Gërmia Road (across AUK) +386 INSIGHT (0)49 880-777 palletlounge@ gmail.com facebook.com/Pallet Hotel Prishtina 05 Hotel Prishtina’s 43 charm- Lounge Papillon Bistro Bar ing guest rooms and suites are 02 Papillon offers more than 60 types reminiscent of a small hotel in of wines from France, Italy, Spain, the European tradition. The hotel and Kosovo with great prices and offers free, fast wifi internet, com- delicious dishes. You can also try plimentary breakfast, conference different types of local or interna- room, swimming pool, sauna and tional beers. Mother Teresa Str. Nr. laundry service. Hotel Prishtina, 51 A [email protected] St. Vaso Pasha nr. 20, +381 38 / 044 103 310 22 32 84. Hotel AFA 03 Pizza Napoli Located in a quiet neighbourhood 06 A taste of Napoli in Prishtina. just outside the city centre, Hotel After ten years of making pizza Afa can guarantee guests a peace- in Napoli, and with only love to ful night while being within walking blame, Fatmir, the head chef, distance of all the action. Rooms returned to Prishtina. His pizzas, start at 45 euro for a single, and made in a woodburn stove, are luxury rooms and apartments are definitely genuine napolitanas. available. The hotel’s rooms are Fatmir also has several delicious well appointed and comfortable. pastas on offer, a true joy for the 15, Rr Ali Kelmendi, Sunny Hill, taste buds. Pizzeria Napoli off Prishtina +381 38/225 226 www. Luan Haradinaj, opposite hotelafa.com Newborn. 044/409-402402 Hotel Gracanica 04 A place to relax in the calm and clean air of the countryside, just 15 minute sfrom Prishtina city center, 500 m from the center of Gracanica and its UNESCO World Heritage monastery and a short walk to the archeological site of Ulpiana. The boutique hotel A combines contemporary architec- ture with traditional elements to 07 create a unique atmosphere that will make you feel at home. +381 (0)38 729 888 (landline) +386 (0)49 764 000 06 [email protected] 02 03 www.hotelgracanica.com www.facebook.com/HotelGra- canica

04 16 n March 14-27, 2014 n Prishtina Insight culture

The new bakery Trosha represents the best Kosovo has to offer in terms of baked goods. photo/Atdhe Mulla Bread, salt and hearts

The Albanian phrase for hospi- Indeed, most Kosovar baked tality – for the best that you can goods are cooked in the round, offer your guests – is “buke, kryp usually in the wide metal trays ELIZABETH GOWING e zemer,” meaning “bread, salt called tepsi. Cornbreads such as and our hearts.” Anyone who lecenik are made this way, and has spent time in Kosovo will be also the iconic fli. It is possible familiar with the extravagant, to buy fresh fli at supermarkets the increase of take-away snacks ed on the ‘burek’ but was correct- sometimes aggressive hospital- such as Ben Af or Maxi, but the from companies such as Fornetti ed by the Prizren-born manager ity of families here, and the of- best way to eat it is when it has has led to something that used to – “We call it by its proper (Turk- fering from their heart. But the just been cooked on a fire out- be unknown in Kosovo – eating in ish) name – kollpite.” country’s bread is less explored doors. This is still the way that the street. Even traditional street Indeed both the pastry chef by visitors, which is a shame many families will make fli as food such as burek or doner is and the baker are Turkish and given the wide range of carbo- a special treat, particularly in usually sold as take-away to be the bakery offers a range of deli- hydrates that Kosovo has to offer. warmer weather. eaten together with friends or cacies including cookies and For a start, forget the pappy, Also made in the tepsi are colleagues, not grabbed by indi- cakes. They also have puddings yeasty white loaves that are most Kosovo’s desserts, usually varia- viduals on-the-go. such as sutlac rice pudding and commonly sold in minimarkets. tions of pastries soaked in honey All of which makes me re- poncik. It was a microcosm of For now, I’m ignoring the foreign or syrup like baklava or shandat- joice to see a new style of eating the best of Prishtina, and Trosha baguettes and rolls available lie, the principle is the same. coming to Prishtina, with the has encouraged me to remember at Pan Expert. I am praising Ko- All these glorious golden cir- opening of the Trosha bakery the best of Kosovo’s culinary tra- sovo’s homegrown baked goods. cles are made for sharing, and and cafe in Pejton. Trosha mean- ditions – great tastes eaten with Have you, for example, are celebrations of Kosovo’s so- ing “crumbs,” combines the best good people, bread, salt and tried the pogaqe bread? These cial eating. The food and drink of old and new, with traditional hearts. big round loaves sometimes Kosovars consume is not the recipes from the east and the translated as village bread are sugar burst of calories snacked west, baked on the premises with Elizabeth Gowing is a founder available in restaurants such as in between meetings, but well- a focus on local ingredients and of The Ideas Partnership, a Symphony. The round shape is prepared and savoured with brands. Kosovo NGO using volunteer significant, because it teaches friends and family. Trosha opened in February, power to tackle educational, cul- you how such breads should be However, it’s the culture of as a joint initiative between three tural heritage and environmen- eaten. The circles of pogaqe sit eating that is changing into a life- entrepreneurs from Mitrovica, tal challenges. She is also the democratically in the middle of style I’m familiar with in the UK Prizren and Prishtina. It brings author of “Travels in Blood and a table and people gather around and elsewhere. There are good together the best style and reci- Honey; becoming a beekeeper and share it together, pulling off reasons, including the gradual pes from around the country. Tea in Kosovo” (2011) and “Edith and hunks, to eat with something like emancipation of Kosovar wom- is served in traditional ‘bardak’ I; on the trail of an Edwardian the delicious tarator yogurt dip. en from out of the kitchen, but bell-shaped glasses. I comment- traveler in Kosovo.”