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Home , Amazonian motmot, Amazonian trogon, Andean motmot, Andean siskin, Antioquia wren, Antpitta

Trip Report

1,000 Mega Tour

18th January to 15th February 2015 (29 days)

Guianan Cock-of-the-rock by Sue Wright

Trip Report compiled by Tour Leader: Forrest Rowland

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Top 10 Tour Highlights (as voted by participants): 1. White-tipped 2. Guianan Cock-of-the-rock 3. Ocellated 4. Golden-headed Quetzal 5. Blue-billed 6. White-whiskered Spinetail 7. Red-fan / Orange-breasted Fruiteater / Violet-tailed Sylph 8. Bicolored 9. Blue-and-yellow Macaw / Gartered 10. Chestnut-crested / / Purplish-mantled Tanager

Tour Intro The following is an abbreviated account of one of the most spectacular journeys on Earth. This author cannot possibly do justice to the sights, sounds, smells, and tastes encountered during our short month in the paradise that is Colombia. With an outstanding 1009 logged, we enjoyed the best that Latin American hospitality, and neotropical birding, has to offer. And true to form, at the end of it I was left wondering: Are more species possible on the next tour? For now, I hope readers enjoy this narrative of our marvellous adventure, the wonderful locations we visited, and an account of the splendid array of wildlife we came across during our travels.

Tour Summary The tour commenced with participants descending on the high capitol city of Bogota. Some arrived in less than a day, while others came all the way from Central Europe, enduring some serious jetlag – only to be awoken at an ungodly hour from Day #1. Well…it’s a birding tour!!! And we kicked it off in fashion, taking a caravan of 4x4 vehicles across Chingaza National Park and its environs.

Our birding in the Eastern , at least the upper elevations, was restricted to our first day-and-a-half around Bogota, including the famed wetland areas close to town. Chingaza National Park and its accesses, paired with a descent across the back of the park to Mundo Nuevo, allow one to travel through ranging from Elfin up to Paramo, then back down into Temperate and Subtropical . Focusing on endemics, as always, we saw Pale- bellied Tapaculo, Silvery-throated Spinetail, Rufous- Flame-winged Parakeet by Sue browed Conebill and several Bronze-tailed Thornbill Wright within the first couple hours of daylight! The show up there includes much more than just the endemic thornbill. Glowing and Coppery-bellied , Blue-throated Starfrontlet, and some of the more common species were evident. Working our way down from the paramo and elfin forests, we sought out, and found, perhaps the most wanted species of the day: Flame-winged (Brown- breasted) Parakeet. We saw 4 feeding on a melastome (a type of flowering plant) right next to the road!!! Crowned Chat-Tyrant, Barred Fruiteater, and gorgeous views of Black-billed Mountain Toucan all ranked amongst the morning’s highlights. The afternoon was spent at some nearby

Trip Report - RBT Colombia Mega I 2015 3 wetlands, yielding great views of Bogota , a few Noble Snipe, Spot-flanked Gallinule and some nice waterfowl.

We then flew out to Mitu, near the Colombian border, for a good dose of some serious Amazon birding. Mitu is fabulous, with comfortable hotel accommodations in town (even air-conditioning!), decent transport with drivers willing to wake up before down, and some of the most enjoyable local guides anywhere. The birding sites are easy to access and the birds are plentiful, with many near endemics, white sand specialists, terra firme specialists, and many scarce species readily seen. The 4 full days, plus two half-days, allowed us to visit all of the important birding areas. Naturally, not every target was seen. We missed Tawny- tufted Toucanet and Pompadour , for example. But, well, there aren’t many other examples! We had the great fortune of finding a flowering tree, several mixed flocks, numerous responsive , and enough rain (but not too much) to keep the birds pumping nearly all day long. While we did lose some birding time to Amazonian Umbrellabird by Sue Wright rain, I think the latter was of utmost importance to our success. The backdrop of monolithic basalt domes jutting hundreds of feet above the forest, and wide meandering rivers, helps add to the obvious allure of this exceptionally remote site. The list of special birds encountered? It was long: Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle, Orange-cheeked Parrot, Festive Amazon, Red-fan Parrot (at nest!), Fiery Topaz, Black-bellied Thorntail, 4 species of (Yellow-billed, Bronzy, Paradise and Great), Rusty-breasted Nunlet, Orinoco , Yellow-throated , Chestnut-winged Hookbill, Chestnut-winged, Cinnamon-rumped, and Olive-backed Foliage-Gleaner, Point-tailed Palmcreeper, Rufous-tailed and Slender-billed , many (including Striped, Ocellated, and Elegant), 35 species of Typical Antbirds (including Fulvous and Blackish-gray Antshrikes, Rufous-tailed, Spot-backed, Cherrie’s and Yellow-throated Antwrens, Imeri Warbling, Black-headed, Gray-bellied, White- plumed and Chestnut-crested Antbirds), Rufous-capped and Striated Antthrushes, Dusky-chested and Yellow-throated Flycatchers, Guianan Cock-of-the-rock, Amazonian Umbrellabird, Saffron- crested Tyrant-Manakin, Yellow-crested Manakin, Amazonian Schiffornis, Brown-headed Greenlet, Azure-naped Jay, Plumbeous , Red-shouldered and Paradise , and Short-billed , amongst the 320+ species we found!!! The monkeys came out for us as well. We had a massive troop of Mottle- cheeked Tamarins come foraging right over us, as well as views of the rare Collared (White- handed) Titi monkey. They were huge for a Titi monkey, which led me, at first, to think that they could’ve been some sort of Saki. Upon investigation, I found out that the white throat markings and white hands of the monkeys only belong to this species of Titi.

We flew back to Bogota, where we had one morning’s birding in the La Florida area before Cherrie's Antwren by Sue Wright embarking on our short flight North to

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Bucaramanga. The Apolinar’s show this morning was utterly unbelievable, had I not been there to witness it for myself. We had a pair not only sing for us, in the open, but follow us back to the bus! Subtropical Doradito, Rufous-browed Conebill, several migrant , and more waterfowl helped boost the trip list.

After our flight to Bucaramanga, we drove to San Vicente de Chuchurri, arriving, finally, at the Cerulean Warbler Preserve Lodge around 7pm. This late arrival was partially due to an absolutely amazing stop we made en route. A previously unexplored side road near one of the new bridges along the way gave access to some typical Magdalena scrub. Northern White-fringed Antwren, Apical Flycatcher, Jet Antbird, and numerous species of Seedeater, Seed , and other scrub birds were out in force! And a fine spot was made by one participant – one female Hoffman’s Two-toed Sloth…with young! A magical 60 minutes on this road only gave a taste Blue-capped Tanager by Sue Wright of the potential. To top it off, I spotted a Beautiful Woodpecker going into a nesthole in a roadside tree. The best travel day of the tour!

The Cerulean Warbler Preserve was wonderful, as always. Spending one day below the lodge in the coffee areas and scrub produced some 120 species the first day, while the subtropical forest above the lodge produced a list nearly as extensive, and completely different, the following day! We had some rainy moments, but managed most of our target birds nonetheless. The visit even yielded a few beautiful, eye-level views of the stunning namesake of the Preserve itself: Cerulean Warbler. Indigo-capped and Chestnut-bellied , Bar-crested Antshrike, Turquoise and Yellow-tufted Dacnis, several species of tanagers, Golden-winged Warbler, Slaty Spinetail, Slate- headed Tody-Flycatcher, Spectacled and Pale-vented Thrushes, and the endemic Yellow-browed - were all highlights from the lower elevations. The best of the lower plantation areas was the critically endangered Niceforo’s Wren pair that came out for views! The following day, after an uphill slog through cow pastures in early morning light, we made it to the forests of the Lengerke Trail, and the heart of birding in the area. Black Inca, Gorgeted Wood Quail, Lined Wood Quail, White- bellied Antpitta and Moustached Puffbird were around the feeding station, and a few of the best birds frequented the mixed flocks of the forest, excepting Parker’s Antbird, and the Upper , which are true skulkers. Rufous-rumped Antwren, Plumbeous-crowned and Rufous- browed Tyrannulets, Variegated Bristle Tyrant, Black- banded , Whiskered Wren, Black-capped, Metallic-green and Blue-winged Mountain Tanagers all appeared for us.

The drive from San Vicente de Chuchurri to the Blue-billed Beautiful Woodpecker by Sue Curassow Preserve can be a long one. Lucky for us, the new Wright road sped us along our way, enabling us to arrive in time for

Trip Report - RBT Colombia Mega I 2015 5 dinner. Some birding was done en route, naturally. We stopped only a few times to take in the sights of some wetland and open country species. Northern Screamer was, as always, the day’s favorite bird – and a worthy one! However, when a Russet-crowned Crake came walking out of a heap of grass into full view, the race for bird-of-the-day became a close one. Stellar views of Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Orange-winged Parrot, White-headed Marsh Tyrant, Pied Water Tyrant and other species helped the trip along.

Our visit to Paujil was perhaps, for me, the most exciting visit made to that site. The weather was decent, the birds very active, and we enjoyed not only great luck with the birds, but with mammals as well! We did, in fact, see the namesake of the preserve. One obliging female Blue-billed Curassow came in to visit the captive birds in the vicinity of the lodge for outstanding views and photos. Nearly the whole lot of target birds showed well, including Black-billed Flycatcher, Bare-crowned Antbird (!), Black-breasted Puffbird, Citron-throated Toucan, , Russet-winged Schiffornis, Yellow Tyrannulet, Shining-green Hummingbird, Stripe-throated Hermit on lek, Red-lored Amazon, Yellow-backed Tanager, Fulvous-vented Euphonia, and more. The most magical part of the visit was, perhaps, when we walked up a streambed to pass the late morning. From one spot we found not one, but three species of trogon. Not only did we see them, but both Gartered and Black-tailed were attending nests!!! A chestnut-backed Antbird Blue-and-yellow Macaws by Sue sat out in the open, preening, while an Olivaceous Flatbill and Wright Pale-eyed Pygmy Tyrant foraged nearby. Purple-throated Fruitcrows, Checker-throated Antwrens and a Southern Bentbill made this hour’s birding truly something special. But perhaps the highest ranked bird encounter from this location was when a pair of Blue-and-yellow Macaw perched atop a large snag, right next to us on the road, and began to preen each other, squawk and chortle, cavorting in a general sense right in front of us. Birds were not to out-shine the mammals here though. From the canopy tower we had great scope views of a small troop of the endangered Brown Monkey. We came across two separate large troops of endemic White-fronted Capuchin. And we found two pairs of the endemic and critically endangered Gray-handed Night Monkey. One pair we had on a day roost (sticking their cute little heads out of a hollow tree. The second pair we came across at dawn, foraging their way through the forest!

We continued west across the Magdalena Valley, and River proper, to the lushest forest we would bird outside of the Amazon – the tropical forests around Rio Claro. Our birding took an interesting turn, as I had received some new gen about a newly accessible trail into some very interesting forest types. Given my inquisitive nature, I threw my normal birding routine out the window, and offered up our only full morning’s birding in the Red-breasted Blackbird by Sue Wright area to this new trail. It did not disappoint. Within the first 200m I had recorded and called in our

Trip Report - RBT Colombia Mega I 2015 6 first Gray-cheeked Nunlet of the tour – but not the last. We heard another 3 during the morning! We were watching a mixed flock including Pacific and White-flanked Antwrens when out popped out first of four Antioquia Bristle Tyrants we would see in the area. Four! Marbled Wood Quail proved tricky to see, but Scaly-breasted Wren put on a splendid show, as did Black-headed Tody- Flycatcher, Rufous Mourner, Red-rumped Woodpecker, and undoubtedly the best encounter I’ve ever had with the regal Black Antshrike. That was just the morning. For our afternoon activity we headed down into the most exciting Oilbird venue around, the Gruta del Condor, to be awed by the sounds, shapes, and overall mystique of this beautiful cavern and its inhabitants. A few other common species were picked up; we had views of the endemic Silvery-brown Tamarins on the new trail, to boot! The final bit of birding we did was in the Canon Rio Claro park itself. While some guides choose to bird elsewhere, I like the access the park provides, as long as the visit is not on a busy weekend day. Luckily for us, we got in early and managed our target birds quickly. Though Oilbird by Sue Wright we dipped Scarlet-browed Tanager, Tawny-crested and Dusky-faced were relatively easy, especially within the mixed flock I hoped to find (and did). Magdalena (Dull-mantled) Antbird and both Rufous and Broad-billed put on fabulous shows, as they tend to inside the park. Black-capped Pygmy Tyrant, Western Striped Manakin, and the beautiful endemic White-mantled Barbet all played along for us as well.

The next destination on the itinerary was the famed Arrierito Antioqueno (Chestnut-capped Piha) preserve owned and operated by ProAves. The nearest town to the site is Anori, which is usually what we refer to the preserve as. One hates to leave the site without the namesake bird. We didn’t have to this time. After some searching, we had the Chestnut-capped Piha show of a lifetime: two males chasing each other, vocalizing impulsively, right on top of us! We mostly birded the compliment of trails within the preserve. There are several amazing species to be seen here, and we saw nearly all, with a few bonus birds thrown in. Best sightings included one singing Wattled Guan in the scope at dawn, Chestnut Wood Quail coming to a seed feeder, jaw- dropping views of Moustached Puffbird at no more than 4m distance, White-crowned and Stiles’s , Rufous- browed Tyrannulets (giving ridiculously good looks), Golden- winged Manakin, a pair of Sooty-headed , looks at the gaudily patterned Multicolored Tanager, Indigo , and Andean . Many mixed flocks were encountered, with the full array of furnariids, tanagers, flycatchers and the like. The big bonus of the day was a gorgeous male Scarlet-and-white Tanager near the end of the afternoon. Truly a wonderful day!

We birded our way towards Medellin, enjoying some mixed flocks on the way down the mountain from Anori, a few nice skulkers including Ruddy Foliage-Gleaner and Black-headed Violet-tailed Sylph by Sue Wright Brush Finch, and a soaring immature Ornate Hawk-Eagle.

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Not bad…. The drive to Las Tangaras allows for little birding time en route, given that nearly everything in Antioquia is rather far, and requires one to cross the expanse of the Medellin Metropolitan area. Nevertheless, we managed one good bird – a flock of Red-bellied Grackles came in to a roost site right on the road!!! It was a great way to end the day.

Las Tangaras provides access to pristine mid- elevation Choco forest and spectacular high- elevation temperate forest. The clean rooms, delicious food and beautiful scenery around Carmen del Atrato combine with some of the most famed and beautiful species of the entire tour to make for a very memorable few days amidst the flood of special days and special birds. This visit to Las Tangaras was the best to- date. We spent one full day at the Las Tangaras property proper, as well as an afternoon. The other long morning (until about 1pm) was spent around the newly purchased La “M”/Tanager Finch Preserve property and the dirt road access there. The slew of outstanding birds seen was as Yellow-collared Chlorophonia by Sue Wright follows (in part…I can’t fit them all in!): Barred Parakeet, Lyre-tailed (on a day roost!), White-tailed Hillstar, Velvet-purple Coronet, Empress Brilliant, Violet-tailed Sylph, Greenish Puffleg, Toucan Barbet, White-throated Toucanet, Star-chested Treerunner, Pacific , Uniform and Streak-capped Treehunters, Bicolored Antvireo, Rufous-rumped and Yellow-breasted Antwrens, Yellow-breasted Antpitta, Narino and Alto Pisones Tapaculos (great looks at both), Choco Tyrannulet, Rufous-headed Pygmy Tyrant, Fulvous-breasted Flatbill, Lemon-browed Flycatcher, Orange-breasted and Green-and-black Fruiteaters, Olivaceous Piha, Choco Vireo (several), Black-collared and Beautiful Jays, Pale-footed Swallow, White-headed Wren, Muchique Wood Wren (pair singing right next to our cars!), Chestnut-breasted Wren (killer views), Black Solitaire (!), Yellow-collared and Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonias (eye- popping looks), Choco Warbler, Choco Brush Finch, Rufous-crested Tanager, Black-and-gold Tanager (numerous), Gold-ringed Tanager (!), Hooded, Buff-breasted and Black-chinned Mountain Tanagers, Grass-green, Purplish-mantled and Glistening-green Tanagers, Crested Tanager, and some 10 other tanager species. Obviously, Las Tangaras is quite aptly named. Nearly at random, we also picked up great looks at one confiding Tanager Finch that hopped right out next to the road, unprompted, for all to see. And for the first time I can remember, Golden- headed Quetzal came in the Top Ten list, entirely due to the behavior we witnessed at La “M”. I heard a Golden-headed Quetzal, very distant, which I whistled back to. I heard the telltale “giggle” of an interested individual get closer, and spotted the bird. It was miles away, so I put it in the scope. Thinking that, on a longshot, this male might decide to come closer, I played some tape. The response was incredible! This male came bounding up the hillside towards us, flying in a circular direction, flashing his red belly, deliberately and Velvet-purple Coronet by Sue Wright repeatedly towards us, in a territorial

Trip Report - RBT Colombia Mega I 2015 8 confrontation I had only seen once before. It was spectacular!!! We had an outstanding visit, missing but one or two species.

En route to Rio Blanco, we made a mandatory convenient stop for the Cauca Specials: Greyish Piculet and Antioquia Wren. These two species only inhabit the lower-elevation, dry forest within the Cauca Valley, which divides the Central and Western Andes. We had perfect views of both of these endemic birds within 20 minutes of stopping at the site! It was so pleasant, we birded around a bit more, picking up a couple trip birds, before heading southeast towards Rio Blanco, high in the Central Andes.

Rio Blanco is simply wonderful. However, it’s a bit more wonderful when heavy rain and dense fog don’t plague the visit. So it goes high in the Andes: you never know what you’re going to get. We arrived in a drizzle, birding in rain and fog, and left in cold, pre-dawn drizzle. Despite the horrific weather situation, we saw nearly all of the target birds sought for here, save for Masked Saltator, which was a sore miss. Shortly after arrival, a flock of Rusty-faced flew in uphill from the lodge! Flight views were had by most participants, and a few of us saw them perched as well. Golden-plumed Parakeet cooperated perfectly, with several flocks being encountered and seen very well by Slate-crowned Antpitta by Sue Wright all, posing for photos. The Antpitta show was fabulous, as always. Chestnut-crowned, Brown-banded, Bicolored and Slate-crowned all came right out for us, with Bicolored being about a 50/50 shot. A pair of responsive Ocellated Tapaculos responded by coming out of the dense foliage they usually inhabit, onto a low, exposed trunk, together for full views! Ash-colored and Spillman’s Tapaculos cooperated in kind, and we had great flock experiences. Grass-green Tanager, , Striped Treehunter, Streak-headed Antbird, Oleaginous, Black-eared, and Black-capped Hemipsingus, Capped Conebill, Plushcap, Strong-billed and Tyrannine Woodcreepers, and Bar-bellied Woodpecker were just some of the fine species encountered in the upper forest. Lower down, below the lodge, we came across THE mega flock that I hoped we’d find. This one particular flock invariably includes an attendant family group of the stunning, scarce Red-hooded Tanager, which is only found in high elevation forests. We had a group of 6 come through with the flock! Wedge-billed Hummingbird, Bronzy Inca, White-bellied Woodstar, and a few other hummingbirds came in to the feeders and flowers at the lower lodge, and we had another undeniably lucky/astounding encounter with a special bird: Swallow-tailed Nightjar. There is an area well below the lodge where Swallow-tailed Nightjar comes at dusk to feed, and, on occasion, display. We went there hoping to get a couple short views before the birds head off to forage elsewhere. Sure enough, one came in just as dusk was giving Swallow-tailed Nightjar by Sue Wright way to night! I put the bird in the light, and it

Trip Report - RBT Colombia Mega I 2015 9 stayed put, leisurely. I decided to approach, moving the light higher above my head as we approached to avoid shining light directly into the bird’s eyes. We walked closer. The bird didn’t move. The group approached to within 15 feet. The bird didn’t move. I knelt down, holding the light right above the bird, and reached out my hand. The bird still didn’t move!!! Right before my hand would have come into contact with the bird’s back, I decided not to ruin a beautiful moment by showing off. Incredible photos, and an unforgettable experience with this lovely, confiding bird was story enough.

The highest elevations we birded during the tour were at PNN Los Nevados, though there was some overlap with the birding on the first day of our tour, at Chingaza. The weather was relatively cooperative, offering clear views of the actively erupting Vulcan Ruiz! Later in the morning we found ourselves battling fog. Nevertheless, , White-chinned Thistletail, Many-striped Canastero, and…the prize of paramo birding in Colombia…Buffy Helmetcrest, all cooperated brilliantly! The helmetcrest is truly a lovely, endearing bird. We called a out into full view, while both Brown-backed Chat-Tyrants and Stout-billed Cinclodes were near. We had Golden-plumed Parakeet by Sue Wright distant, tickable views of the endemic Rufous- fronted Parakeet. The hummingbird show was the most memorable bit of the morning: Black- thighed, Glowing and Golden-breasted , Shining Sunbeam, Great Sapphirewing, and both Viridian and Tyrian Metaltails were around us almost constantly, while Rainbow-bearded Thornbill (sometimes quite difficult) was numerous at the feeders! A tasty breakfast at the hot springs with great hummingbird feeders – not too shabby. It was a great morning, despite conditions.

Our last “mainland” (I always think of the Santa Marta and Guajira being a country of their own) birding was at Otun-Quimbaya, home to the Cauca Guan. We had 4 of them in a tree, right behind the lodge, not 10 minutes after arrival! 2 Red-ruffed Fruitcrows (the other sought-after bird here) came into the very same tree. Talk about the pressure being off…. We did have nearly one full morning (3.5 hours) to bird the road through the preserve, before our internal flight from Pereira to Barranquilla. Unfortunately, it rained nearly the whole time. Once the rain broke, we got in a short bit of birding on the drive to Pereira, with Plumbeous- crowned Tyrannulet being the highlight. We took our flight to Barranquilla, excited about our final push to 1000 in the most famous birding area in Colombia – the Santa Marta range.

The Santa Marta region of Colombia is one of the most recognized areas for endemism in the Western Hemisphere, and has been labelled a Natural Heritage Site, as well one of Cauca Guan by Sue Wright the largest, contiguous-area IBAs on the planet. The Santa

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Martas are older, geologically than the Andes. The highest peak juts some 5,700m above sea level, standing tall as the highest peak in the whole country. This peak lies less than 100 kilometers from the white sands and turquoise waters of the . In a very real sense, the Santa Marta range is an island of evolution that has fascinated biologists for decades. Ornithologists continue to describe new , while scientists continue to label known subspecies as species unto themselves. Our time in the Santa Marta area allowed for just a little time birding the more widespread habitats of coastal and scrub, though we did investigate these habitats heavily en route to Minca, from Barranquilla.

Starting out just west of Barranquilla, we hit a known roost area for Chestnut-winged , where we saw several. We then skirted the congested metropolis of Barranquilla and went directly to the PNN Islamanca boardwalk area. We nailed all of our targets birds here, including the range-restricted (though now reliable) Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird. Venezuelan Flycatcher, Black-crested Antshrike, Golden-green Woodpecker, and the lovely near-endemic Chestnut Piculet cooperated, as did the mangrove-bound Bicolored Conebill. After a breakfast break, we backtracked up the highway to a street heading off into some marshy scrub. Russet-throated Wedge-billed Hummingbird by Sue Wright Puffbird, Stripe-backed Wren, Caribbean Hornero, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Ferruginous Pygmy , Yellow Oriole, and Bronzy-brown Cowbird were all found here, as well as some commoner wetland species, including Snail Kite, Black-collared Hawk, Peregrine Falcon, Glossy Ibis, Fulvous Whistling Ducks and two wayward Northern Shovelers. After weeks in dense forest, this road is particularly exciting as many species are extremely close and cooperative. Heading down the highway we found several species of shorebirds, waders and waterfowl along the strip of land dividing Cienaga Grande from the Caribbean. After one of the best lunches of the tour (El Rancho is a must stop!), we headed up to Minca, birding en route for Black-backed Antshrike, which we ended up having splendid views of. The hummingbird show at the feeders of Hotel Minca kept us entertained upon arrival, with three species of hermit coming to visit, Red-billed Emerald, and plenty of generally beautiful, though more widespread species. One night here doesn’t quite do the town of Minca justice, as it is a quaint little place, but we had places to be!

Birding from Minca the entire way to the end of the road above El Dorado is great…pretty much the whole way. But one has to focus on a few select spots. We chose wisely on the drive up to ProAves’ El Dorado preserve. Though Rosy -Tanager proved elusive, Coppery Emerald, Scaled Piculet, Keel-billed Toucan, Rufous-breasted and Rufous- and-white Wrens, Golden-winged Sparrow, Black-headed Tanager (stellar views!), Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush, Black-backed Thornbill by Sue White-necked Thrush, Santa Marta Antbird, and Santa Wright Marta Foliage-Gleaner all gave great looks. A nice surprise

Trip Report - RBT Colombia Mega I 2015 11 was Reddish Hermit (uncommon at best), which turned up near the Pozo Azul! Santa Marta Blossomcrown was coming to a lush garden below the lodge, and we had fine views of this endemic species too.

Over the course of the next two days near the lodge, White-lored Warbler, Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Black-fronted Wood Quail, Sierra Nevada and Santa Marta Brush Finch, White-tailed Starfrontlet, Sickle-winged and Band-tailed Guans, Grey-throated Leaftosser, Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush, and Santa Marta Toucanet all showed well at the various feeding stations, or on the trails leading into the forest nearby. A male Black-backed Thornbill, which is seldom conclusively seen, was coming to the feeders, while Santa Marta Woodstar only made a brief mid-afternoon appearance. White-tipped Quetzal and Barred Forest Falcon were THE birds around the Santa Marta Warbler by Sue Wright lodge, despite the endemics all vying for attention. The (yes plural) sat right out for us, near to a display area near the lodge, earning themselves “Bird of the Tour”. The Barred Forest Falcon we called in perched in front, above and behind us for views of all sides of the bird. The lodge itself is worth mention, as it is certainly the most beautifully-situated and well-appointed lodge in the country. Jaw-dropping views of the coastline in the distance, great food, and comfortably elegant rooms make this place a paradise.

We had but one morning for the high elevation birds, which are proving much more difficult every year due to the intense playback pressure focused on the site. Being the only accessible high- elevation in the range, all visiting birders are forced to bird the same spots. Luckily, the colorful Santa Marta Screech Owl was perched, obligingly, right over the road on the drive up the ridge! All participants were able to get fabulous looks at this scarce bird, which often requires playback pressure to see. This wasn’t necessary for us! Later in the morning, the effects of continuous playback pressure were obvious, as we attempted (with varying degrees of success) to locate most of the endemics. Santa Marta (a subspecies liked for a split if this complex species is ever figured out) remained out of sight for most participants, though a couple people got looks. Brown-rumped Tapaculo was, alas, a heard-only. Santa Marta Warbler, which is now regularly missed by visiting groups, cooperated wonderfully however. We had three or four following mixed flocks right up to the road. Amazing photographs were taken of this lovely species! All of the other high-elevation species, including Santa Marta Parakeet, were seen well! Mixed flocks yielded everything from the local Montane Woodcreeper subspecies sure to be split, to Santa Marta Mountain Tanagers, Streak- capped and Rusty-headed Spinetails, Golden- breasted Fruiteater, and Flammulated Barred Forest Falcon by Sue Wright Treehunter all showed. One of the day’s prizes

Trip Report - RBT Colombia Mega I 2015 12 was fine views of the sometimes elusive Santa Marta Bush Tyrant. Though quiet much of the day, we did very well. So well, in fact, we decided to return to the lodge for some relaxed afternoon birding around the lodge. We enjoyed our second spectacular sunset over the Caribbean.

We struck out early from the lodge the following morning in to bird our way down the mountain, make Hotel Minca for lunch (the food is scrumptious), and still have time for two keep stops on our way to Riohacha. Our first exciting encounter of the morning was when a responsive Grey-throated Leaftosser popped up right next to the road and sat out for us. A few people even managed to get photos of this skulking species. We found the recently split Tyrannulet species - (now endemic to the range) Coopman’s and Specious Tyrannulets - right next to each other, along with and several other nice mid-elevation species. Two White-lored Warbler by Sue Wright Yellow-billed (Groove-billed) Toucanets showed nicely and, finally, after three stops in preferred habitat for the hard-to-see , one appear for us! The raptor show today was full-on, with great views of both Ornate Hawk-Eagle and one adult Black-and-chestnut Eagle riding low thermals, as well as a few hawk species.

We made a brief visit to a relatively unknown stop for White-bellied Antbird, Buff-breasted Wren, Flycatcher and Trinidad Euphonia, after our delightful meal and quick break at Hotel Minca. Northern Scrub Flycatcher and a low-flying King Vulture were nice additions here. Another relatively little-known stop for Rufous-vented , Green-rumped Parakeet, Glaucous Tanager, and Blue-crowned Parakeet provided those too! Then Helmut spotted two Double- striped Thick-knees near the road, and before we knew it we were enjoying 5 individuals cavorting near the roadside for nice views and photos.

Though it holds no endemics in terms of political borders, conditions in mean that, for all intents and purposes, Riohacha and the Colombian side of the Guajira is the place to be for birds particular to the Guajira Peninsula. Our morning in the habitat was up to par with all of the wonderful days we had spent thus far. Hundreds of , numerous species of waders, and shorebirds, not to mention all the scrub specialists were out in force for us. Scarlet Ibis, White-whiskered Spinetail, Vermilion Cardinal, and Orinoco Saltator were among the showiest of the special birds, though Bare- eyed Pigeon, Buffy Hummingbird, Slender- billed and Pale-tipped Tyrannulets, Northern Scrub Flycatcher, Pileated Finch, and Red-billed Emerald were all great birds. Buffy Hummingbird, now rare in the area, came to feed at a flowering trail on the trail in front of us! It was a fitting end to a remarkable tour, with Buffy Hummingbird by Sue Wright new and exciting birds from start to finish.

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(A huge thank you to Sue Wright for allowing us to use her lovely images in the trip report – much appreciated!)

Total Bird Species Recorded: 1009 (945 seen, 64 heard only) 65 Endemics, 42 Near Endemics

Rockjumper Birding Tours - Colombia MEGA Tour Species Accounts

(* denotes heard-only birds, E symbolizes an endemic, NE symbolizes Near Endemics) 9 *Great White-throated Tinamou – one flushed from just off the trail at Mitu *Tawny-breasted Tinamou * *Cinereous Tinamou * *Grey-legged Tinamou *Red-legged Tinamou *

CHACHALACAS, CURRASSOWS & GUANS 10 Chestnut-winged Chachalaca (E) – several seen near roost site northwest of Barranquilla Rufous-vented Chachalaca (NE) – seen incredibly well at a roost site west of Riohacha Speckled Chachalaca (E) – seen on many days Band-tailed Guan (NE) – a few coming to feed and roost next to El Dorado Lodge Andean Guan Cauca Guan (E, En) – amazing views at Otun-Quimbaya Wattled Guan – scope views of a singing bird just after dawn! Sickle-winged Guan – numerous at several locations Blue-billed Curassow (E,Cr) – stunning views of a female coming to fraternize with captive

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birds

NEW WORLD QUAILS 5 Crested Bobwhite Marbled Wood Quail - glimpses only of a few birds Black-fronted Wood Quail (NE, Vu) – several individuals coming in to feed at El Dorado Lodge! Chestnut Wood Quail (E) – one individual coming to seed feeder at Arrierito Gorgeted Wood Quail (E) – three birds coming to a seed feeder at Reinita Azul

SCREAMERS 1 Northern Screamer (NE) – several seen on the main highway between Honda and Puerto Berrio

DUCKS & GEESE 7 Fulvous Whistling Duck Black-bellied Whistling Duck Blue-winged Teal Northern Shoveler – at least two individuals near Barranquilla Andean Teal Merida Speckled Teal Andean (Ruddy) Duck – seen at Huasca, Parque Florida, and Laguna Sonsa

GREBES 1 Pied-billed

FLAMINGOS 1 American – hundreds at Los Camarones

IBISES & SPOONBILLS 6 Green Ibis

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Bare-faced Ibis (American) White Ibis Scarlet Ibis – stunning views in morning light at Los Camarones Glossy Ibis Roseate Spoonbill

BITTERNS & HERONS 12 Rufescent Tiger-Heron Yellow-crowned Night Heron Black-crowned Night Heron Striated Heron Western Great Blue Heron Cocoi Heron Great Egret Reddish Egret Tricoloured Heron Little Blue Heron Snowy Egret

FRIGATEBIRDS 1 Magnificent Frigatebird

PELICANS 1 Brown Pelican

CORMORANTS 1 Neotropic Cormorant

ANHINGAS, DARTERS 1 Anhinga

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NEW WORLD VULTURES 5 Vulture Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Greater Yellow-headed Vulture Black Vulture King Vulture – one amazing low flyover!

OSPREYS 1 Western Osprey

KITES, HAWKS & EAGLES 25 White-tailed Kite Pearl Kite Grey-headed Kite – two of these scarce deep forest birds seen on the tour! Swallow-tailed Kite Black Hawk-Eagle – great view of a soaring bird Ornate Hawk-Eagle – two separate sightings of soaring individuals! Black-and-White Hawk-Eagle – one individual in a display flight!!! Black-and-Chestnut Eagle – one close, soaring, adult overhead in the Santa Martas! Plain-breasted (Sharp-shinned) Hawk Bicolored Hawk – one adult flew right in to a tree overhead for stellar looks Plumbeous Kite Mississippi Kite – one individual in a roadside park, downtown Bogota….weird! Black-collared Hawk – a pair seen at PNN Isla Salamanca Snail Kite Hawk Savanna Hawk Great Black Hawk Roadside Hawk Harris’s Hawk White-rumped Hawk White-tailed Hawk Black-chested Buzzard-eagle

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Gray-lined Hawk Broad-winged Hawk Short-tailed Hawk

CARACARAS, FALCONS 12 Black Caracara Red-throated Caracara Northern Crested Caracara Yellow-headed Caracara Laughing Falcon Barred Forest Falcon – insane views of an extremely territorial female, possibly near a nest! *Lined Forest Falcon Collared Forest Falcon – an immature bird perched, roadside, at Mitu allowed close approach American Kestrel Merlin Falcon Peregrine Falcon

RAILS, CRAKES & COOTS 10 Russet-crowned Crake – a youngster walked right out into full view! *White-throated Crake Bogota Rail (E, En) – several nice views at Huasca! Gray-necked Wood Rail *Sora *Blackish Rail Purple Gallinule Common Gallinule Spot-flanked Gallinule – seen very well at Huasca and Parque Florida American Coot - the local, disjunct colombiana subspecies

LIMPKIN 1 Limpkin

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THICK-KNEES 1 Double-striped Thick Knee - great views of five adults congregating in a roadside field

OYSTERCATCHERS 1 American Oystercatcher

STILTS, AVOCETS 1 Black-necked Stilt

PLOVERS 3 Southern Lapwing Black-bellied Plover Semipalmated Plover

JACANAS 1 Wattled Jacana

SANDPIPERS, SNIPES 14 Wilson's Snipe Noble Snipe – three at Huasca! Marbled Godwit Whimbrel Long-billed Curlew Greater Yellowlegs Lesser Yellowlegs Solitary Sandpiper Willet Spotted Sandpiper Sanderling Semipalmated Sandpiper Western Sandpiper

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Least Sandpiper

GULLS & TERNS 9 Laughing Gull Gull-billed Caspian Tern Royal Tern Cabot's (Sandwich) Tern Yellow-billed Tern Large-billed Tern Black Skimmer

PIGEONS & DOVES 19 Rock Dove Scaled Pigeon Bare-eyed Pigeon (NE) Band-tailed Pigeon Pale-vented Pigeon Plumbeous Pigeon Ruddy Pigeon Eared Dove Scaled Dove Common Ground Dove Plain-breasted Ground-Dove Ruddy Ground Dove Blue Ground Dove – more seen on this tour than I usually see in a year! White-tipped Dove Grey-fronted Dove Grey-chested Dove Lined Quail-dove – stellar views of three individuals at Reinita Azul! *White-throated Quail-Dove Ruddy Quail-dove – brief views by a few participants

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PARROTS 32 Blue-and-yellow Macaw Scarlet Macaw – seen daily at Mitu! Chestnut-fronted Macaw Red-bellied Macaw Blue-crowned Parakeet – local in Colombia Scarlet-fronted Parakeet Brown-throated Parakeet Golden-plumed Parakeet (En) – We watched a few groups at close range, cavorting, and making a general ruckus for several minutes! Santa Marta Parakeet (E, En) – A flock of 8 hung around for views! Maroon-tailed Parakeet Brown-breasted Parakeet (E, En) – a few individuals observed, at length, as they foraged in nearby trees. Better views could not be had! Barred Parakeet Rufous-fronted Parakeet – a flock of 5 seen in flight, and perched briefly, PNN Los Nevados Green-rumped Parrotlet Spectacled Parrotlet Orange-chinned Parakeet Cobalt-winged Parakeet Black-headed Parrot Orange-cheeked Parrot – great views near Mitu! Saffron-headed Parrot (NE, Vu) – a pair seen well by one participant and the leader Rusty-faced Parrot (NE, Vu) – up to 25 flying around the lodge at Rio Blanco Blue-headed Parrot Red-billed Parrot White-capped Parrot Bronze-winged Parrot Red-lored Amazon – a few seen at Paujil Festive Amazon – seen in flight, near dusk, at Mitu Yellow-crowned Amazon

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Orange-winged Amazon Scaly-naped Amazon Mealy Amazon Red-fan Parrot – amazing views, including at a nest hole, Mitu

CUCKOOS 6 Greater Ani Smooth-billed Ani Groove-billed Ani Striped Squirrel Cuckoo * Cuckoo

OWLS 5 Tropical Screech Owl – an incredible pair tolerating up-close viewing at Paujil! Santa Marta Screech Owl (E, Cr) – a gorgeous, obliging, individual Rufous-banded Owl – heard Mottled Owl - heard Ferruginous Pygmy Owl

OILBIRDS 1 Oilbird – dozens inhabiting the Oilbird Cave near Rio Claro

POTOOS 1 Common

NIGHTJARS 10 Lesser Nighthawk Common Nighthawk Short-tailed Nighthawk Rufous-bellied Nighthawk Band-tailed Nighthawk Blackish Nightjar – several on the road at Mitu

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Common Pauraque Band-winged Nightjar Swallow-tailed Nightjar – a gorgeous female that allowed approach to within handling distance! Lyre-tailed Nightjar – on a day roost at Las Tangaras!

SWIFTS 10 White-chinned – several seen at close range within a mixed flock of swifts! Chestnut-collared Swift White-collared Swift Band-rumped Swift Grey-rumped Swift *Chimney Swift Short-tailed Swift Neotropical Palm Swift White-tipped Swift Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift

HUMMINGBIRDS 80 Rufous-breasted Hermit White-tipped Sicklebill Band-tailed Barbthroat Green Hermit Long-billed Hermit *Great-billed Hermit Tawny-bellied Hermit *Straight-billed Hermit Pale-bellied Hermit Reddish Hermit Stripe-throated Hermit Green-fronted Lancebill Grey-breasted Sabrewing – seen around Mitu White-necked Jacobin

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Fiery Topaz – two jaw-dropping males seen coming to blooming tree!!! Brown Violetear Green Violetear Sparkling Violetear Black-throated Mango Black-bellied Thorntail – seen in the same tree with the Fiery Topaz! Blue-tailed Emerald Western Emerald Red-billed Emerald – a few seen at various locations Coppery Emerald (NE) – two seen very well above Minca!!! Short-tailed Emerald Violet-crowned Woodnymph Green-crowned Woodnymph Fork-tailed Woodnymph Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird (E,Cr) – one beautiful male seen close at PNN Isla Salamanca Shining Green Hummingbird (E) – one glowing male seen at Paujil Buffy Hummingbird (NE, Vu) – a rare bird anywhere in its tiny range! Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird (E, En) – one coming to feeders at Reinita Azul Versicolored Emerald Andean Emerald Indigo-capped Hummingbird (E) Blue-chested Hummingbird Steely-vented Hummingbird Santa Marta Blossomcrown (E, En) – Recently split from Andean Blossomcrown White-vented Plumeleteer Speckled Hummingbird Fawn-breasted Brilliant Green-crowned Brilliant Empress Brilliant - a few of this stunning Choco endemic seen White-tailed Hillstar – one seen at feeders at Tangaras Buff-tailed Coronet

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Velvet-purple Coronet – several of this striking hummer seen Shining Sunbeam Mountain Velvetbreast Bronzy Inca Brown Inca Black Inca (E, Vu) – we had great views of this unique endemic at Reinita Azul Collared Inca White-tailed Starfrontlet (E) Blue-throated Starfrontlet Buff-winged Starfrontlet Sword-billed Hummingbird Great Sapphirewing Tourmaline Sunangel Glowing Puffleg Golden-breasted Puffleg Black-thighed Puffleg (NE) – great views at PNN Los Nevados! Coppery-bellied Puffleg (NE) Greenish Puffleg Booted Racket-tail – a few seen at various locations Black-tailed Trainbearer Black-backed Thornbill (E) – One male coming to feeders at El Dorado Lodge! Purple-backed Thornbill – two seen at Chingaza Buffy Helmetcrest – we had great encounters with 2 or 3 individuals at PNN Los Nevados! Tyrian Metaltail Viridian Metaltail Bronze-tailed Thornbill (NE) – stunning views of no fewer than 5 individuals! Rainbow-bearded Thornbill – several at PNN Los Nevados Long-tailed Sylph Violet-tailed Sylph Wedge-billed Hummingbird Black-eared Fairy Purple-throated Woodstar White-bellied Woodstar

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Santa Marta Woodstar (E)

TROGONS 10 * Golden-headed Quetzal – several outstanding views, including a male displaying! White-tipped Quetzal – two males seen very well! Black-tailed Trogon White-tailed Trogon Green-backed Trogon

KINGFISHERS 3 Green Kingfisher Amazon Kingfisher Ringed Kingfisher

MOTMOTS 5 Rufous Motmot Broad-billed Motmot

JACAMARS 6 Yellow-billed Jacamar – a lovely pair seen at Mitu Rufous-tailed Jacamar Bronzy Jacamar – eye-popping views of this handsome bird at Mitu Paradise Jacamar – always a treat to see!!! Great Jacamar – nice views at Mitu!

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PUFFBIRDS 12 White-necked Puffbird Black-breasted Puffbird – scope views a distant perched bird *Pied Puffbird Chestnut-capped Puffbird – great looks at a close bird at Mitu Russet-throated Puffbird *White-chested Puffbird *White-whiskered Puffbird Moustached Puffbird (NE) – great views of this scarce bird at Arrierito and Reinita Azul Rusty-breasted Nunlet – a pair put on quite a show at Mitu Grey-cheeked Nunlet – perched low, less than 10m away…a great bird! White-fronted Nunbird Swallow-winged Puffbird

NEW WORLD BARBETS 4 White-mantled Barbet (E, Vu) – several good views Gilded Barbet Lemon-throated Barbet – beautiful bird! Red-headed Barbet

TOUCAN BARBET 1 Toucan Barbet – clear, close views at Las Tangaras

TOUCANS 15 Grey-throated Toucanet White-throated Toucanet Santa Marta Toucanet (E) – several seen in the higher elevations of the Santa Marta range Yellow-billed Toucanet (NE) – two seen very well! Crimson-rumped Toucanet Lettered Aracari Ivory-billed Aracari Many-banded Aracari Collared Aracari

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Black-billed Mountain Toucan – stellar views! Channel-billed Toucan Citron-throated Toucan (NE) Keel-billed Toucan – two of these gorgeous birds seen eye-level at Minca White-throated Toucan Black-mandibled Toucan

WOODPECKERS 27 Lafresnaye’s Piculet Orinoco Piculet (NE) – seen well around Mitu! Scaled Piculet Greyish Piculet (E) – one seen very well en route to Tangaras from Arrierito Chestnut Piculet (NE) – we had crushing views of this wonderful bird at Salamanca Acorn Woodpecker – the unique and beautiful flavigula subspecies Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Beautiful Woodpecker (E) – we found a pair attending a nest! Red-crowned Woodpecker Smoky-brown Woodpecker *Yellow-vented Woodpecker Bar-bellied Woodpecker – a pair at a nest Little Woodpecker Red-rumped Woodpecker Red-stained Woodpecker Yellow-throated Woodpecker – stunning looks at a male in a mixed flock, Mitu Golden-green Woodpecker – the xanthochloros subspecies at PNN Isla Salamanca Crimson-mantled Woodpecker – always a treat Golden-olive Woodpecker Spot-breasted Woodpecker *Cinnamon Woodpecker Scaly-breasted Woodpecker – great views at Mitu! Chestnut Woodpecker Lineated Woodpecker

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*Powerful Woodpecker Crimson-crested Woodpecker

OVENBIRDS 68 Stout-billed Cinclodes Caribbean (Pale-legged) Hornero Andean Tit-spinetail White-chinned Thistletail Many-striped Canastero White-whiskered Spinetail (NE) – this fantastic species showed well on the Guajira Rufous Spinetail Rusty-headed Spinetail (E, Vu) – great views of this handsome bird in the Santa Marta range Silvery-throated Spinetail (E) – killer views of a pair near a nest, no playback needed Azara's Spinetail Pale-breasted Spinetail Slaty Spinetail White-browed Spinetail – unbelievable views of a bird posing in the open for photos! Red-faced Spinetail Streak-capped Spinetail (E) – seen well at the upper elevations in the Santa Marta range Ash-browed Spinetail Yellow-chinned Spinetail Rusty-winged Barbtail Spotted Barbtail Star-chested Treerunner (NE) – a good number seen, amazingly close, at Tangaras Pearled Treerunner Pacific (Buffy) Tuftedcheek – two seen in separate mixed flocks at Las Tangaras Streaked Tuftedcheek – a few seen at Rio Blanco Point-tailed Palmcreeper – great views at Mitu. Posed well for photos! Montane Foliage-gleaner Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner Lineated Foliage-gleaner Chestnut-winged Hookbill – fine views in a mega mixed flock at Mitu

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Western Woodhaunter Slaty-winged Foliage-gleaner Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner – fantastic views in a mega mixed flock at Mitu Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Cinnamon-rumped Foliage-gleaner – eye-level, close, in a mega mixed flock at Mitu Uniform Treehunter – great views at Tangaras! Striped Treehunter Streak-capped Treehunter *Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner – stunning views of a bird, perched, not 4m distance, following the mega mixed flock at Mitu Ruddy Foliage-Gleaner – the saturatus subspecies Santa Marta Foliage-gleaner (E) – eye-level views, in full song! *Dusky Leaftosser Gray-throated Leaftosser – wonderful views of this skulker in the Santa Marta range Rufous-tailed Xenops – great views of a pair! Slender-billed Xenops – three seen, foraging, in the white sand forests Streaked Xenops Tyrannine Woodcreeper Plain-brown Woodcreeper – ridgewayi, lefresnayei, and phaeochroa subspecies seen White-chinned Woodcreeper - heard Olivaceous Woodcreeper – enochrus and amazonus subspecies seen Wedge-billed Woodcreeper – subrufescens and rufigularis subspecies seen Strong-billed Woodcreeper – sanctamartae, virgata, and promeropirhynchus subspecies seen Northern Barred Woodcreeper – punctipectus subspecies seen *Amazon Barred Woodcreeper Black-banded Woodcreeper – multistrigatus subspecies seen Straight-billed Woodcreeper Striped Woodcreeper – responded well at Mitu! Ocellated Woodcreeper – in mixed flocks at Mitu; beauperthuysii subspecies seen

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Elegant Woodcreeper – in mixed flock at Mitu; ornatus subspecies seen Buff-throated Woodcreeper – polystictus subspecies seen Cocoa Woodcreeper *Black-striped Woodcreeper Spotted Woodcreeper Olive-backed Woodcreeper Streak-headed Woodcreeper Montane Woodcreeper – many, including a few of the sanctamartae subspecies seen *Brown-billed Scythebill

ANTBIRDS 66 Great Antshrike Fulvous Antshrike – two females seen Black-crested Antshrike – seen at PNN Isla Salamanca and again on the Guajira Black-backed Antshrike (NE) – a male came out for great, close, views below Minca Barred Antshrike Bar-crested Antshrike (E) Black Antshrike – amazing views near Rio Claro! Blackish-grey Antshrike – great views at Mitu Uniform Antshrike Plain-winged Antshrike Mouse-colored Antshrike Black-crowned Antshrike – formerly Western Slaty Antshrike Amazonian Antshrike Pearly Antshrike – great views of a close male Russet Antshrike Plain Antvireo Bicolored Antvireo – views of a female at Las Tangaras Dusky-throated Antshrike Cinereous Antshrike Spot-winged Antshrike Checker-throated Antwren – two pairs at very close range *Stipple-throated Antwren

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Rufous-tailed Antwren – great views at Mitu *Plain-throated Antwren – ignota subspecies seen Pygmy Antwren Pacific Antwren Cherrie’s Antwren – several at Mitu Yellow-throated Antwren – two seen very well at Mitu! White-flanked Antwren Slaty Antwren Long-winged Antwren Grey Antwren Spot-backed Antwren – great close views of this special bird! Yellow-breasted Antwren *Dot-backed Antwren Northern White-fringed Antwren – hondae and fumosa subspecies seen Southern White-fringed Antwren – rufiventris subspecies seen at Mitu Santa Marta Antbird (E, Vu) – seen wonderfully in the Santa Marta Mountains Streak-headed Antbird Rufous-rumped Antwren – stunning views of displaying birds at Las Tangaras! Behavior I’ve never seen, nor heard of, before. Grey Antbird Dusky Antbird – tyrannina subspecies seen Parker's Antbird (E) – great views of male and females of this endemic at Reinita Azul Jet Antbird – incredible views; atrata subspecies seen *White-browed Antbird Black-faced Antbird – stellar views of a male in the open; elegans subspecies seen Imeri Warbling Antbird – fantastic views of a pair! *Yellow-browed Antbird *Black-chinned Antbird Bare-crowned Antbird – stunning pair came in for great views! Silvered Antbird Black-headed Antbird – close, open views at Mitu; minor subspecies seen Spot-winged Antbird – infuscata subspecies seen

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White-bellied Antbird Chestnut-backed Antbird Magdalena (Dull-mantled) Antbird (E) – hopping on the rocks, giving full views at 6m! Grey-bellied Antbird (NE) – fine views of this rare, white sand specialist Black-throated Antbird *Blue-lored (Immaculate) Antbird White-plumed Antbird – quick views of a family group *White-cheeked Antbird *Bicolored Antbird Chestnut-crested Antbird (NE) – Spectacular views of an obliging family group Spot-backed Antbird - naevius subspecies seen Common Scale-backed Antbird

ANTTHRUSHES 3 Rufous-capped Antthrush – great views at Mitu *Black-faced Antthrush – glimpsed by a few participants, heard well Striated Antthrush – great views at Mitu

ANTPITTAS 15 * (Vu) Chestnut-crowned Antpitta * (E, Vu) Bicoloured Antpitta (NE, Vu) – one coming to worms at Rio Blanco!! *Chestnut-naped Antpitta Yellow-breasted Antpitta – nice views of this skulker! White-bellied Antpitta – seen very well! *Rufous Antpitta Santa Marta Rufous Antpitta (E, Vu) Tawny Antpitta Brown-banded Antpitta (E) – a few coming in to worm feeders at Rio Blanco! Awesome *Thrush-like Antpitta *Ochre-breasted Antpitta Rusty-breasted Antpitta (NE) - allowed wonderful views; ferrugineipectus subspecies seen

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Slate-crowned Antpitta – to a worm feeder at Rio Blanco!

GNATEATERS 1 *Chestnut-crowned

TAPACULOS 14 – unrivalled views of a singing pair, in the open, trailside! Ash-coloured Tapaculo Northern White-crowned Tapaculo Santa Marta Tapaculo (E) – seen well at middle elevation in the Santa Marta Mountains Narino Tapaculo – stunning views at Tangaras! *Long-tailed Tapaculo Upper Magdalena Tapaculo (E, En) – quick views at Reinita Azul Stiles's Tapaculo (E) *Brown-rumped Tapaculo (E) Spillmann's Tapaculo – views of a bird attending a nest! Pale-bellied Tapaculo (E) Paramo Tapaculo – in the open, very responsive Alto Pisones Tapaculo (E) – seen well, finally, at Tangaras!

TYRANT FLYCATCHERS 123 Wing-barred Piprites Sooty-headed Tyrannulet Plumbeous-crowned Tyrannulet – best views I’ve had yet! Black-capped Tyrannulet Ashy-headed Tyrannulet Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet Forest Elaenia Grey Elaenia Greenish Elaenia Yellow-bellied Elaenia Lesser Elaenia

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Mountain Elaenia *Brown-capped Tyrannulet White-lored Tyrannulet *Southern Beardless Tyrannulet White-tailed Tyrannulet White-banded Tyrannulet White-throated Tyrannulet Agile Tit-Tyrant – splendid encounter with a family group of these charismatic little beauties! Torrent Tyrannulet *Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Yellow Tyrannulet Subtropical Doradito *Bronze-olive Pygmy Tyrant Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant Ringed Antpipit – great views for all participants! Slender-footed Tyrannulet Golden-faced Tyrannulet Choco Tyrannulet – one heard and seen below Las Tangaras Coopman’s Tyrannulet – seen at middle elevation in Santa Marta Range Variegated Bristle Tyrant – seen very well at Reinita Azul Marble-faced Bristle Tyrant Antioquia Bristle Tyrant (E, En) – at least four seen very well Rufous-browed Tyrannulet Streak-necked Flycatcher Olive-striped Flycatcher Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Sepia-capped Flycatcher Slaty-capped Flycatcher Rufous-breasted Flycatcher Northern Scrub Flycatcher Slender-billed Inezia (NE) – had equally nice looks at this species, as the previous Amazonian Inezia

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Pale-tipped Inezia Flavescent Flycatcher Handsome Flycatcher Ornate Flycatcher White-eyed Tody-Tyrant Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant Black-throated Tody-Tyrant – nominate subspecies, and lehame subspecies in SM mountains *Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant Black-capped Pygmy Tyrant Southern Bentbill – quick, but decent views of this tricky bird Scale-crested Pygmy Tyrant Double-banded Pygmy-Tyrant Helmeted Pygmy-Tyrant Pale-eyed Pygmy Tyrant Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher Rusty-fronted Tody--Flycatcher Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher Spotted Tody-Flycatcher Common Tody-Flycatcher Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher Brownish Twistwing – a glimpse only, alas Olivaceous Flatbill Fuvous-breasted Flatbill Yellow-olive Flatbill Zimmer’s Flatbill – the neglectus subspecies in Mitu was our mystery heard bird! We did see one silent individual that I labelled as this species, as well as the one heard (and recorded). T.a. neglectus is vocally distinctive from any of its congeners, certain for a split once the science is done. Yellow-margined Flatbill Ochre-lored (Yellow-breasted) Flatbill – flaviventris subspecies seen Cinnamon Flycatcher Black-billed Flycatcher – nice views at Paujil! Fuscous Flycatcher – duidae subspecies seen at Mitu, another nearly sure split

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Black Phoebe Olive-sided Flycatcher (Vu) Smoke-coloured Pewee Tropical Pewee Acadian Flycatcher Willow Flycatcher Least Flycatcher Vermilion Flycatcher Santa Marta Bush Tyrant – better looks couldn’t be had. Smoky Bush Tyrant Pied Water Tyrant White-headed Marsh Tyrant Crowned Chat-Tyrant Yellow-bellied Chat-tyrant Slaty-backed Chat-tyrant Rufous-breasted Chat-tyrant Brown-backed Chat-tyrant Long-tailed Tyrant Cattle Tyrant Rusty-margined Flycatcher Social Flycatcher Dusky-chested Flycatcher Great Kiskadee Lesser Kiskadee Yellow-throated Flycatcher – a pair seen well at Mitu Lemon-browed Flycatcher – family group of six! Golden-crowned Flycatcher Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher Streaked Flycatcher Boat-billed Flycatcher

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Sulphury Flycatcher Tropical Kingbird Fork-tailed Flycatcher Grey Kingbird Greyish Mourner Rufous Mourner – seen at Paujil Dusky-capped Flycatcher Venezuelan Flycatcher Panama Flycatcher Short-crested Flycatcher Apical Flycatcher (E) – nice looks at a feisty individual Pale-edged Flycatcher Great Crested Flycatcher Brown-crested Flycatcher *Citron-bellied Attila Bright-rumped Attila 13 Red-crested Cotinga Green-and-black Fruiteater Barred Fruiteater Golden-breasted Fruiteater – two obliging males Orange-breasted Fruiteater – point blank views of this gorgeous bird! Guianan Cock-of-the-rock – 5 males on lek at Mitu Spangled Cotinga Chestnut-capped Piha (E, En) – two males chasing eachother right on top of us! *Screaming Piha Olivaceous Piha Purple-throated Fruitcrow Red-ruffed Fruitcrow – a good number seen at Otun-Quimbaya Amazonian Umbrellabird - close, eye-level views of a male at Mitu

MANAKINS 11 Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakin – one on lek at Mitu

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Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin – always fun to spend a few minutes finding the singing male… Golden-winged Manakin Club-winged Manakin – watched on lek Western Striped Manakin – great views at Paujil Blue-crowned Manakin White-bearded Manakin Black Manakin – seen very well at Mitu Yellow-crested (crowned) Manakin – great views very close! White-crowned Manakin – unica and pipra subspecies seen Golden-headed Manakin

TITYRAS, 17 Black-tailed Myiobius Black-crowned Tityra Black-tailed Tityra Masked Tityra Russet-winged Schiffornis – wonderful close views at Paujil Brown-winged Schiffornis Cinereous Mourner – great views at Mitu * Barred Chestnut-crowned Becard White-winged Becard Black-capped Becard Black-and-white Becard One-colored Becard Pink-throated Becard

VIREOS & GREENLETS 15 *Rufous-browed Peppershrike Black-billed Peppershrike

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Yellow-browed Shrike Vireo (E) – great views near San Vicente Yellow-throated Vireo Choco Vireo (NE, En) – one of the prize birds of the trip Brown-capped Vireo Red-eyed Vireo Yellow-green Vireo Lemon-chested Greenlet Brown-headed Greenlet – great looks at this range-restricted white sand specialist Rufous-naped Greenlet Golden-fronted Greenlet – fantastic views of this local bird Dusky-capped Greenlet Scrub Greenlet Lesser Greenlet

CROWS & JAYS 5 Black-collared Jay (NE) – great views at a few high-elevation sites Beautiful Jay (NE) – well-named Black-chested Jay Azure-naped Jay (NE) – A great bird!!! Several seen around Mitu Inca Jay

SWALLOWS & MARTINS 10 White-winged Swallow Grey-breasted Martin Brown-chested Martin Blue-and-white Swallow Brown-bellied Swallow Pale-footed Swallow – a few seen at La “M” White-banded Swallow White-thighed Swallow Southern Rough-winged Swallow Barn Swallow

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WRENS 25 White-headed Wren – good looks at small family group at Tangaras Band-backed Wren Stripe-backed Wren Bicoloured Wren Rufous Wren Sepia-brown (Sharpe’s) Wren Sedge Wren – sitting out, in full song, at PNNs Chingaza Apolinar's Wren (E, En) – great views of this skulky wren sitting out, singing, near Parque Florida Sooty-headed Wren (NE) – views at Arrierito Black-bellied Wren Whiskered Wren Coraya Wren Rufous-breasted Wren Rufous-and-white Wren Niceforo’s Wren (E, Cr) – great views!! Antioquia Wren (E, Cr) – known from only three sites, I whistled a pair into full, close view Buff-breasted Wren Bay Wren House Wren Mountain Wren White-breasted Wood Wren Grey-breasted Wood Wren Munchique Wood Wren (E, Cr) – full views at La “M”! One of the best songs ever Southern Nightingale-Wren – great views Chestnut-breasted Wren – watched while singing!!!

DONACOBIUS 1 Black-capped Donacobius

GNATCATCHERS 3 Collared Gnatwren - heard

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Long-billed Gnatwren – seen very well; griseodorsalis and sanctamartae subspecies seen Tropical Gnatcatcher

MOCKINGBIRDS, THRASHERS 1 Tropical Mockingbird THRUSHES 19 Andean Solitaire Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush – one seen near Minca Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush – few at the El Dorado Lodge Grey-cheeked Thrush Swainson's Thrush Black Solitaire (NE) – nice views at Tangaras Yellow-legged Thrush Pale-eyed Thrush Great Thrush Glossy-black Thrush Black-hooded Thrush Pale-breasted Thrush Black-billed Thrush *Lawrence’s Thrush Hauxwell’s Thrush – at a nest with Pale-vented Thrush Clay-coloured Thrush Spectacled Thrush White-necked Thrush

FINCHES 15 – a few seen in several locations Yellow-bellied Siskin – a few seen at Anori and Rio Blanco Andean Siskin (NE) Plumbeous Euphonia Trinidad Euphonia – a pair seen well near the Guajira Thick-billed Euphonia

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Golden-rumped Euphonia Fulvous-vented Euphonia White-lored (Golden-bellied) Euphonia White-vented Euphonia Orange-bellied Euphonia Rufous-bellied Euphonia Yellow-collared Chlorophonia – best views possible of several feeding on a melastome! Blue-naped Chlorophonia Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia

NEW WORLD WARBLERS 28 Northern Waterthrush Louisiana Waterthrush Golden-winged Warbler – males at Reinita Azul and Santa Marta! Black-and-white Warbler Prothonotary Warbler Tennessee Warbler Mourning Warbler American Redstart Cerulean Warbler (Vu) – several gorgeous males seen well Tropical Parula Bay-breasted Warbler Blackburnian Warbler American Yellow Warbler Blackpoll Warbler Citrine Warbler Black-crested Warbler Buff-rumped Warbler Choco Warbler – one in a mixed flocks below Tangaras White-lored Warbler (E) Russet-crowned Warbler Rufous-capped Warbler Golden-crowned Warbler

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Three-striped Warbler Santa Marta Warbler (E, Vu) – a few seen well at high elevation in the Santa Marta Mountains Canada Warbler Slate-throated Whitestart Golden-fronted Whitestart (NE) Yellow-crowned Whitestart (E) – several at high elevation in the Santa Marta Mountains

OROPENDOLAS, ORIOLES & BLACKBIRDS 27 Crested Chestnut-headed Oropendola – a few seen near Rio Claro Green Oropendola Russet-backed Oropendola Olive Oropendola Yellow-rumped Cacique *Subtropical Cacique Red-rumped Cacique *Mountain Cacique Orange-backed Troupial – a first for Mitu! *Venezuelan Troupial Yellow-tailed Oriole Epaulet Oriole Orange-crowned Oriole Yellow-backed Oriole Yellow Oriole Baltimore Oriole Colombian Mountain Grackle (E, En) – briefly in flight Red-bellied Grackle (E, En) – a great flock we picked up a couple times near Las Tangaras Yellow-hooded Blackbird - both subspecies seen Giant Cowbird Bronze-brown Cowbird (E) – a pair on the Guajira Carib Grackle

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Great-tailed Grackle Red-breasted Blackbird Eastern Meadowlark

BANANAQUIT 1 Bananaquit

BUNTINGS, NEW WORLD SPARROWS & ALLIES 20 Rufous-collared Sparrow Yellow-browed Sparrow Black-striped Sparrow Pectoral Sparrow Orange-billed Sparrow Golden-winged Sparrow (NE) – several of these stunning birds above Minca Chestnut-capped Brush Finch Black-headed Brush Finch (NE) Sierra Nevada Brush Finch (E) – a few seen at El Dorado Grey-browed Brush Finch Olive Finch – one came right out in the open at Tangaras! White-naped Brush Finch Santa Marta Brush Finch (E) – numerous in the Santa Marta range Pale-naped Brush Finch Choco Brush Finch – numerous at Tangaras Slaty Brush Finch Common Bush Tanager Dusky Bush Tanager Yellow-throated Bush Tanager Ashy-throated Bush Tanager

TANAGERS & ALLIES 109 Black-faced Tanager Magpie Tanager White-capped Tanager – a noisy, wonderfully close group of these stunners

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Rufous-crested Tanager – one in mixed flock at La “M” Dusky-faced Tanager – several at Rio Claro Black-capped Hemispingus Superciliaried Hemispingus Oleaginous Hemispingus Black-eared Hemispingus Black-headed Hemispingus Grey-hooded Bush Tanager Grey-headed Tanager Flame-crested Tanager Fulvous-crested Tanager White-shouldered Tanager Tawny-crested Tanager White-lined Tanager Red-shouldered Tanager Crimson-backed Tanager Silver-beaked Tanager Flame-rumped Tanager (E) Lemon-rumped Tanager Blue-grey Tanager Glaucous Tanager (NE) – a few seen very well on the Guajira Blue-capped Tanager Palm Tanager Black-and-gold Tanager (E, Vu) – many great views of this special bird at Tangaras Gold-ringed Tanager (E, En) – good, close, views of this special bird at Tangaras Hooded Mountain Tanager *Black-chested Mountain Tanager Santa Marta Mountain Tanager (E) – several seen close! Lacrimose Mountain Tanager Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager Blue-winged Mountain Tanager Black-chinned Mountain Tanager Grass-green Tanager

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Buff-breasted Mountain Tanager Purplish-mantled Tanager (NE) – several seen in various places! Glistening-green Tanager – a number of these showy birds at Tangaras Multicoloured Tanager (E, Vu) – a few seen Plain-coloured Tanager Turquoise Tanager Paradise Tanager Green-and-Gold Tanager Golden Tanager Silver-throated Tanager Yellow-bellied Tanager Speckled Tanager Rufous-throated Tanager – a few seen well at Tangaras Bay-headed Tanager Scrub Tanager Metallic-green Tanager Blue-necked Tanager Golden-hooded Tanager Masked Tanager Beryl-spangled Tanager Blue-and-black Tanager Black-capped Tanager Black-headed Tanager - two of these scarce birds seen in the Santa Marta range Swallow Tanager Black-faced Dacnis Yellow-tufted (Black-faced) Dacnis – stunning views! Yellow-bellied Dacnis Turquoise Dacnis (E, Vu) – numerous eye-level looks Blue Dacnis Short-legged Honeycreeper – two seen at Mitu Purple Honeycreeper Red-legged Honeycreeper Green Honeycreeper

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Yellow-backed Tanager Guira Tanager Scarlet-and-White Tanager (NE) – jaw-dropping male seen White-eared Conebill Bicoloured Conebill Rufous-browed Conebill (NE) Blue-backed Conebill Capped Conebill Rusty Flowerpiercer Chestnut-bellied Flowerpiercer (E, Vu) – one seen in a mixed flock at La “M”! White-sided Flowerpiercer (NE) – crushing looks of neon blue at Arrierito and Tangaras Tanager Finch (NE, Vu) – crippling views of one silent individual that hopped right out Grey Pileated Finch Plumbeous Sierra Finch Slaty Finch Saffron Finch Blue-black Grassquit Variable Seedeater Grey Seedeater Yellow-bellied Seedeater Ruddy-breasted Seedeater Chestnut-bellied Seedeater Thick-billed Seed Finch Chestnut-bellied Seed Finch Large-billed Seed Finch – seen at Mitu Plain-coloured Seedeater Paramo Seedeater Dull-coloured Grassquit – seen near Minca

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Yellow-faced Grassquit Black-faced Grassquit – one pair on the Guajira Sooty Grassquit – lengthy view of this enigmatic, rare, species near Reinita Azul *Rosy Thrush-tanager Plushcap

GROSBEAKS, SALTATORE & ALLIES 15 Tooth-billed Tanager – formerly Highland Hepatic Tanager Summer Tanager Red-hooded Tanager – several nice views at Rio Blanco Sooty Ant Tanager (E) – great looks of this skulker at Paujil Crested Ant Tanager (E) – great views at Tangaras Rose-breasted Grosbeak Vermilion Cardinal (NE) – a few on the Guajira *Yellow-green Grosbeak Slate-colored Grosbeak Buff-throated Saltator Black-winged Saltator Greyish Saltator Orinocan Saltator – seen very well on the Guajira *Masked Saltator Streaked Saltator

MAMMALS Hoffman’s Two-toed Sloth – with baby! Red-tailed Squirrel Andean Squirrel (E) Amazon Dwarf Squirrel Santander Dwarf Squirrel (E) Western Dwarf Squirrel (NE) Speckled Spiny Tree Rat (NE) Tapeti (Brazilian Rabbit)

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White-footed [Silvery Brown] Tamarin (E) – around Rio Claro Mottle-cheeked Tamarin (NE) – huge troop at Mitu Collared (White-handed) Titi Monkey – mistaken for a Saki-type at Mitu; rare monkey!!! Grey-handed Night Monkey (E) – in a day roost at Paujil! Adorable Venezuelan Red Howler Monkey Brown (Magdalena) Spider Monkey (E) White-faced Capuchin (E) Central American Agouti Greater White-lined Bat Leaf-nosed Bat sp.? Lesser Bulldog Bat Crab-eating Fox – a pair came in to raid the trash at Rio Blanco

Total Mammal Species Recorded: 20 6 Endemic, 3 Near-endemics

Rockjumper Birding Ltd c/o Summit Trust Mtius Ltd Suite 3 Grand Baie Business Park Grand Baie, Mauritius Tel (USA & Canada) toll free: 1-888-990-5552 Email: [email protected] Alternative email: [email protected] Website: www.rockjumperbirding.com