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Product Review: Wine The Future of Wine-by-the-?

Also: Mechanization for Quality Should Your Winery Optically Sort? Improving Wine Rates sales & marketing

Product Review: Wine Kegs A successful wine-by-the-glass program is a successful program.

Bill Pregler

WHY ARE SO MANY high-end restaurants serving high-end wines from kegs? Because the supply chain has finally eliminated all the early problems and figured out how to deliver quality. This is not to say kegs will someday replace the bottle because glass still is the core business for the majority of the food and beverage industry. But this article exists to dispel the myth of cheap keg wine. Kegs are now offering a viable, complementary delivery system which, according to Steve Thomson, executive vice president at King Estate in Oregon, “is removing barriers to a host of sales opportunities.” And the restaurants are finally getting it. In fact, as the end-user, they are now the driver. According to Sandy Block, VP of beverage operations for 33 Legal Sea Foods restaurants on the East Coast, “It is a pull, not a push, situation.” Restaurants are asking distributors for keg wine, and distributors are looking to wineries to provide the product. Hotel and restaurant people alike said a successful wine-by-the-glass program is becoming a successful keg program. Most important is that the keg people finally got it right. There are three topics that jumped out at me when researching this article: standardization of containment, consistency in winery procedures and accurate restaurant placement. I’ll discuss these in detail and then offer some stories of successful keg programs. To fully understand where we are heading we have to make sure everyone knows where we have been. This time kegs will not be compromised.

(%)$) '%,(!53%2 4WO 5RBAN ,ICKS RESTAURANT IN !TLANTA CURRENTLY A Very Short History of Wine in Kegs FEATURES  DIFFERENT WINES BY THE GLASS It is no secret that Europe has successfully served wine from kegs for a long time. In the United States, keg wine goes back to the 1970s, and immediately for many years. Walk through a wine cellar and see how much topping wine everything went wrong, from selling poor wine in the wrong kegs to poor is in kegs, or thousands of gallons of wine is fermented or contained in installations at restaurants. stainless prior to bottling. Not to mention all the stainless process equipment Jim Neal, proprietor of N2 Wines in Rutherford, California, our modern-day, and plumbing. Many suggest stainless steel is still the best vessel for small lots keg-wine guru, finally addressed the problems everyone was having with kegs. of wine, so why not stainless kegs heading straight to restaurants? “Today’s success is based on the standardization of the process. Keg wine At the same time, we have seen the entry of one-way PET kegs which is an entirely different animal, and everything starts in the cellar, how it is reduce cost of entry dramatically and lessen the burden of return logistics as handled, packaged and then dispensed,” he said. Unfortunately, many early with steel kegs. attempts of keg wine forgot even the most basic principles of proper sanita- I have already written about how a small winery can start small and support tion and eventual delivery systems. Success has only been seen in the last a program for local business development and as a tasting room three years. accessory (see “What’s Cool: Get Ready for Growlers” in the June 2012 issue The early poor reception and subsequent bad press were not the fault of of WBM). I have talked to people who have started keg programs that focus the stainless keg. Steel has been doing its job quite well in the wine industry specifically on catering or highly profitable alumni annual picnic events.

54 April 2013 WBM Opportunities are everywhere. The Gotham Project in New York special- izes in domestic wine production and distribution of wines in kegs. But (OLDING FOUR , KEGS THIS according to co-owner Bruce Schneider, it is “a big mistake to sell kegs as PORTABLE DISPENSER FROM -ICRO just another format. They need support.” It does not matter if you are starting -ATIC HAS DUAL TEMPERATURE out with one keg or 10,000. ZONES FOR BOTH REDS AND WHITES

While there is a limited selec- Attributes to Consider: tion of keg suppliers, there are two The Basics of Kegs important options for the winery to consider: (1) should we use steel Wineries and distributors are responsible for getting the product packaged, -!4)# kegs that are returned for cleaning )#2/ delivered and installed at the customer’s venue. The first step is to stan- - and refilling or (2) use plastic dardize the . one-way, recyclable kegs you will never see again. STANDARDIZING: THE KEG AND VALVE There are only two steel kegs available, and neither are made in the There are plenty of kegs available in the “containment world,” but restaurants U.S. They are Franke and Schaefer, both from Germany. The distribu- and hotels do not want wine delivered in beer balls, ponies or a Cornelius tion center for Schaefer is in Ontario, Canada while Franke’s headquar- keg. Today all wineries must look no further than the 19.5 liter, 1/6 keg. ters is in Tennessee. There are half-priced Chinese kegs slowly making Generally referred to as the 20L, it holds 5.17 (U.S.) gallons. This translates their way over the pond, but I was advised to still be very careful with into roughly 110 6-ounce pours. A 20L looks like a single scuba tank. The concerns about quality. reason they want the 20L is because it conveniently replaces the standard In the minds of many people, plastic or PET kegs are the future. Many half , typical for beers, which holds 15.5 gallons. The key, however, are might be uncomfortable with their wine in PET , but this is the dimensions. The diameter (footprint) of the half barrel (when removed) another concern that has been addressed as today’s kegs are totally inert. allows for four 20L to be installed—as in four kinds of wine.

WBM April 2013 55 Product Review: Wine Kegs

By mid-summer Scholle Packaging will be bringing in the KeyKeg from the Netherlands. This will basically be a ready-to-use bladder inside a . The PubKeg from Rehrig Pacific Company is currently avail- able. It is a solid PET container that also arrives ready for use and is purged

with CO2. These two may afford the smaller winery the opportunity to “test the waters” by first developing local accounts with local delivery and then expanding to out-of-state accounts.

3#(/,,% !.$ 2%(2)' 0!#)&)# 4HE +EY+EG FROM 3CHOLLE AND 0UB+EG FROM 2EHRIG 0ACIFIC ARE BOTH 0%4 ALTERNATIVES TO STEEL

If you visit websites for companies, like Micro Matic and Perlick, you find extensive catalogs that feature dual temperature-controlled dispensing equip- ment called Kegarators and other sizable standalone dispensing designs. Not only do they work well as portable poolside units but as permanent cocktail lounge installations. Again everything is based on the 20L dimension.

THE VALVE It is important to make sure the kegs are installed with the Sankey-D valve. There are plenty of options like, the “S,” “G” and “A.” Restaurants only understand the “D.” The Sankey Kegging System was first developed in the 1950s to deliver good quality beer to British and commonwealth troops in far away places like Asia. That’s cool. It is a “two port” valve, meaning it allows for both entry and exit to accommodate washing, sterilization and then filling under tightly controlled conditions. This valve maintains "52'34!(,%2 -!#().% 7/2+3 a microbial-free environment as it is cleaned, 4HIS -ICRO -ATIC filled and gassed in place, and the inside of the COUPLER ON A &RANKE vessel will never see O2 incursion. Compare this STEEL KEG IS DESIGNED to washing and sparging an open bottle prior WITH 4RI #LOVER FITTINGS to filling then sparging again prior to corking. FOR THE WINE INDUSTRY

56 April 2013 WBM Once the cleaning cycles are complete, the spring-loaded valve closes, and delivery truck drops off product. According to Sandy Block, “Distributors are the keg is totally sealed without any possible compromise. There will never in the business of moving product. Period.” Ultimately, the supplier should be an issue with oxidation from the first glass to the last drop, 110 pours later. assume responsibility for proper delivery of their product. From beginning to end the wine will always be pushed with nitrogen. You can We will visit these couplers again when I discuss installation and place- fill this with gravity flow or fully automated equipment. Quite a unique design. ment. First, however, we need to discuss the handling of the kegs. An extension from the valve into the keg is called the “spear.” This is a that goes from the base of the Sankey valve to the bottom of the keg. It will direct two-way flow: cleaning and filling into the cylinder and the reverse flow for delivery of wine. Consistency The stainless keg is really a miniature stainless tank that travels from your THE COUPLER cellar to the customer. Unfortunately, another area compromised in early To make all this work, however, you need a Micro Matic coupler. The keg programs was inconsistent cleaning, filling and filtering procedures, coupler is the “gatekeeper” that allows for all service and filling lines to which are key to maintaining the integrity of your wine. Once again, Jim interlock with the keg. They work for either steel or PET kegs and are now Neal was the one who realized, “The best quality control standards are just designed specifically for the wine industry. You will need two couplers. One as demanding as those on a commercial .” People understood is a standard coupler that has been modified to accommodate the Tri-Clover but not kegs. fittings in our industry. The kegs are cleaned upside-down, with all rinsing procedures done via the Then there is the coupler that will be in the restaurant. Somehow you need coupler mentioned earlier. The steps include a basic hot water rinse followed to connect the contents inside the keg via the valve to the outside world. To by a 140° F caustic wash. For that reason, flexible impeller pumps may not specify nowadays, just say “wine and Sankey-D.” be a good idea. The coupler is the transition between everyone’s efforts (cleaning, filling) This is followed by either a citric or phosphoric rinse, a sanitizer then a right up to the point of delivery. Wrong coupling, no wine. Distributors are nitrogen purge. For those unhappy with chemical cleaning, there are steam usually expected to carry extra fittings to the restaurant in there is a systems available that work very well. A recent development has been a steam problem. This works generally well for beer because everyone understands unit from ARS Enterprises. beer, but maybe not wine. After cooling, the keg is turned upright and filled until wine comes out of Do not assume a distributor knows everything after the truck leaves the the outlet. The spring-loaded ball valve locks tight, the coupler is removed, warehouse. The sales people are usually responsible for taking orders. The and the keg is sealed with a tamper-proof cap and ready for shipping.

TOTAL CONTROL FROM VINE TO GLASS dŚĞŝŶĚƵƐƚƌLJĞdžƉĞƌƚƐĂƚKƌŝŽŶtŝŶĞ^ŽŌǁĂƌĞƵŶĚĞƌƐƚĂŶĚƚŚĂƚŵĂŬŝŶŐǁŝŶĞŝƐŽŶůLJŽŶĞƉĂƌƚŽĨLJŽƵƌďƵƐŝŶĞƐƐ͘tŚĞƚŚĞƌLJŽƵ͛ƌĞůŽŽŬŝŶŐĨŽƌũƵƐƚŽŶĞƐŽůƵƟŽŶŽƌĂ ƐƵŝƚĞŽĨŝŶƚĞŐƌĂƚĞĚƉƌŽĚƵĐƚƐ͕KƌŝŽŶŚĂƐƚŚĞĂŶƐǁĞƌƐƚŽĂůůLJŽƵƌŝŶĨŽƌŵĂƚŝŽŶŶĞĞĚƐ͘ŶĚ͕ĂƐLJŽƵƌďƵƐŝŶĞƐƐŐƌŽǁƐ͕ƚŚĞKƌŝŽŶƚĞĂŵǁŝůůďĞƚŚĞƌĞƚŽƐƵƉƉŽƌƚLJŽƵ͘

WBM April 2013 57 Product Review: Wine Kegs

Natural Selection MEETS Intelligent Design

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s Optimized exposure of side and cross grain surface areas that extract in six weeks #()0 .%34/2 s Tidy, variable-dosage thru-bung-hole barrel sets for easy control of oak contribution !IMEE +ONIECZNY AT THE ,EGAL (ARBORSIDE RESTAURANT s Available tank sets for lowest oak cost per gallon IN "OSTON DRAWS A GLASS OF WHITE The oak alternative has come a long way since the chip. It’s advanced to the Infusion Spiral. Filling is easy as the keg can be filled with gravity flow, again through the coupler. For those wineries planning on extended keg programs, there are companies that have been supplying the beer industry for years. One, in (805) 712-4471 (800) 201-7125 ™ West Coast–New York–Texas: InfusionSpiral.com particular, is IDD Processing & Packaging in Moorpark, California. Just as Contact Len Napolitano Avon, Minnesota a thought, I do not know why you could not have your local mobile bottler [email protected] Proudly made in the USA install a “T” line just after the sterile filter prior to the monoblock. Patent#7357069 The Oak Alternative, Evolved Under no circumstances should the Sankey valve or spear be removed for cleaning. By design that is accomplished when the keg is being cleaned. Removal of the valve is easy, but reconnecting it is virtually impossible, requires special tools and is totally unnecessary. Finally I was advised that the wine must be “bottle ready” and filtered to .45 micron, similar to what would be done prior to a monoblock in a bottling line. All adjustments by the winemaker prior to filling are the same as if filling a bottle.

Return Logistics Cleaning only comes into play if you are using steel kegs, which are shipped to the distributor and eventually returned for refilling. Not needing them to be returned is a huge advantage for one-way PET kegs. For steel kegs, wineries must address all the issues pertaining to return logistics and keg float. “Float” is the term used to describe how many kegs you need to keep your distribution cycle flowing. There are empty kegs that need cleaning and filling, kegs in transit, some positioned in restaurants and others empty on their return trip. Depending on how far you ship around the country, a winery may need seven to 12 kegs to support every one in use. This is a substantial capital investment, with a steel keg costing around $120. Certainly prices are quantity-sensitive. In the meantime, a one-way PET keg costs around $25. While leasing is always a viable alternative and steel kegs can easily last 20 years, relying on distributors to collect and return in a timely manner can be difficult. Then there is the issue of theft as kegs can easily disappear from behind the restaurants and find their way to metal recycling. I will discuss this later when talking about Free Flow Wines of Sonoma and its comprehensive program of filling, shipping and retrieval. It is a terrific business model that relieves the winery of all the inherent problems of steel.

58 April 2013 WBM Product Review: Wine Kegs

In the meantime, expect to see a lot of activity around the one-way, no return/cleaning/refilling kegs. The final critical step in any keg program is when the keg gets to the customer. I mentioned couplers earlier, but there is much more to address. This was the final phase of early keg programs that needed to be corrected.

Placement and Delivery You cannot simply hook a wine keg up to a beer tap system. Who knew? According to Jim Neal, “Regardless of the attempt by the winemaker to ensure his wine is prepped right and packaged into clean and sanitized "52'34!(,%2 -!#().%3 7/2+3 cooperage, it is all for naught if the wine is served from a ! CUSTOM STAINLESS TOWER FROM "URGSTAHLER -ACHINE 7ORKS HAS  FONTS poorly designed system.” It turns out the biggest barrier to proper wine dispensing in restaurants is between the keg and the glass. Micro Matic and Perlick offer all these plumbing accessories. They also It took some time before people realized that the 303 stainless, typically offer a wide selection of towers. Towers are what the tap or faucet attaches to. used in beer taps and fittings, contains brass and corrodes easily with the pH Taps are also referred to as fonts to differentiate from beer dispensing. Inside of wine, resulting in sulfur taint, off-flavors and loss of freshness. the towers are all the plumbing, from the keg to the font. Hands down, the The restaurant must have 304 stainless components, from the aforemen- best custom fabricator of towers and fonts I’ve seen is Burgstahler Machine tioned delivery coupler to tubing nipples and the faucet (tap) for dispensing. Works in St. Helena, California. These folks are truly artists. At the same time it is important that all tubing that connects the keg to the Restaurants also need to be aware of temperature control. Typically, whites tap be oxygen-barrier tubing as typical bar tubing is or vinyl should be served 40° to 45° F, depending on varietal, and 55° to 65° F for and is porous, allowing O2 into the wine. The tubing of choice readily avail- reds. Long distances, from remote keg storage to tap, are discouraged due to able is called Barriermaster Flavourlock. the possibility of hot spots that could develop in transit. Finally, 4 to 7 PSI is recommended to dispense wine.

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60 April 2013 WBM The gas pushing the wine is also critical. Pure argon or nitrogen is not “I want to remove barriers to hospitality, and that includes for the wait staff. advised nor is pure CO2. There must be a blend of nitrogen and CO2 (about It also removes the pretentiousness of the wine experience for the customer.

75 percent to 25 percent) to maintain the dissolved CO2 in the wine. Fortu- Wine by the glass affords them the ability to conduct their own wine pairings nately, this very gas blend is also available. It is called Guinness Gas and fairly throughout the evening.” Early on he found push back from customers and common with all tavern/bar gas suppliers. waiters. With some smart promoting he found that by educating everyone about the inherent green-sustainability of kegs, people immediately wanted to participate. Jeff Barba, food and beverage director at the Scottsdale, Arizona Westin Usage Scenarios: From Hotels Kierland Resort and Spa, said he experimented with kegs early on, but it was to Catering to Restaurants not until he attended the 2012 Restaurant Leadership Conference that he For a restaurant owner who is considering kegs, start by thinking of the met with other people looking for, and companies offering, wine dispensing exploding market of wine-by-the-glass. Then think ease and speed of alternatives. delivery for wait staff, less labor, higher margins and zero loss due to oxidi- Keg and dispensing companies are now standard fare at the NRA (National zation and half-full wine bottles at closing time. Restaurant Association) gatherings and the NAFEM (North American Asso- Also think table tents that promote green-sustainability and taglines ciation of Food Equipment Manufacturers). For Barba it goes far beyond targeting reduced carbon footprints, bottles in landfills, potential cork taint offering quality wines from wineries like Trefethen in Napa; but as a food and and foil packaging costs. This last idea came to me from someone and beverage guy, he knows profit and loss. No more groups of staff pulling who most consider the “godfather” of keg wine marketing in the country. corks from bottles. Todd Rushing is a partner with Concentrics Restaurants group, with a The same holds true for Rich Lowitz, owner of E-Vino in the Baltimore total of 12 properties in Atlanta alone. Years ago while visiting wineries in metro area of Maryland, who has discovered a niche market. He was origi- California, he toured cellars and wondered why a finished wine could not nally motivated by the ecological benefits of keg wine. E-Vino now services simply be returned to stainless. As one of the original advocates, his keg wine restaurants and hotels throughout the area. “[The] largest portion of our program has since grown exponentially. The Two Urban Licks restaurant, business model is to focus on catering large events where wine-by-the-glass for example, features a glass-walled, temperature-controlled, 30-foot high is the delivery of choice,” he said. “Our business, with colleges and universi- display of kegs as a feature behind the cocktail area. When we spoke, he said ties, is huge. Who knew how much money those alumni associations have for THEY CURRENTLY FEATURE  DIFFERENT WINES BY THE GLASS annual gatherings and parties?”

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WBM April 2013 61 Product Review: Wine Kegs

“We do not look at wine on tap as simply another format. We see it as a better glass of wine. Kegs are the best way to ensure consistent high quality wine by the glass.” Bruce Schneider, CO OWNER 'OTHAM 0ROJECT

I spoke at length with Bruce Schneider and Charles Bieler, owners of the Gotham Project in New York. As a custom wine company that delivers in kegs, they offer their clients a wide portfolio of wines from New York, Cali- fornia, Washington and Oregon with imports from 10 countries. Schneider emphasized the need to “work closely with your distributors and customers to educate them about the equipment requirements and best practices for a great wine on tap experience.” He added, “We do not look at wine on tap as simply another format. We see it as a better glass of wine. Kegs are the best way to ensure consistent high-quality wine by the glass.” The same holds true for Michael Ouellette, owner of VinTap in Napa, which offers 25 varietals and blends of premium wines. VinTap is equipped to deliver to restaurants from coast to coast. “Quality is still the number one concern, from the start of winemaking to the delivery of product into the glass. Kegs are a fantastic product and actually can result in better wines.” VinTap unfortunately does not offer kegging services to outside wineries, but that is best left to Free Flow Wines of Sonoma. I met with Jordan Kivelstadt and Daniel Donahoe, who founded Free Flow in 2009. Theirs is a business model that offers terrific potential for all wineries. They offer a complete turnkey service whereby the winery simply delivers the wine, and Free Flow takes care of everything thereafter. They are teamed with Satellite Logistics Group, which provides integrated solutions to manage transportation, distribution and warehousing of kegs. In addition, they offer a reverse logistics program called the Kegspediter System, where they track, locate, consolidate and return empty kegs. The kegs are then cleaned, sanitized and ready for refilling. At the end of the month the winery gets an invoice. Jordan advised me of their latest program, an intermediate stage for smaller wineries. “We will send you 60 clean and ready-to-go sparged kegs. You will fill them, send them back. We scan them and enter them into our system.” I don’t think that gets any easier. At last count, Free Flow had over 90 custom clients, worked with 104 distributors and serviced 36 states.

62 April 2013 WBM 4HE THREE DOOR #ONCESSIONAIRE FROM 0ERLICK IS CONFIGURED WITH MULTIPLE TEMPERATURE ZONES AND WINE GRADE FITTINGS AND ATTACHMENTS

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Conclusion So many of the early keg wines were compromised and totally poisoned the concept for years to come. In our wine world it is time to move beyond perceptions and begin to realize terrific sales potential. I have not even started to discuss the growing export markets that would appreciate the convenience of one-way kegs. Or even cruise ships—what do they do with all those empty bottles out in the ocean? These issues will be discussed in upcoming articles in WBM. Today we have a unique situation where the customer—the restaurant—is driving the demand. They have identified an obvious need. This is why all wineries should start considering a keg program as a terrific complement to their bottling programs. I would let all my accounts know they have the option. WBM

WBM April 2013 63