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wheretraveler.com where JACKSONVILLE, ST. AUGUSTINE & ISLAND AUGUSTINE & AMELIA AUGUSTINE & AMELIA ST. ST. JACKSONVILLE, JACKSONVILLE, FIRST COAST

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Photo credit gotham book 5.5/9pt Welcome to THE FIRST COAST

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Florida’s first coast

8 Five Centuries of 16 a Sailor’s Story 24 home field Majesty What was it like to be a advantage St. Augustine celebrates 450 Spanish-born merchant in A look at the Jacksonville years as the oldest permanent in 1565? Florida’s first Jaguars’ home turf makeover. city in the . Take a governor, Pedro Menéndez de by Laura Anders Lee look at the natural beauty and Avilés, tells his own tale. historic richness. by Laura Anders Lee 26 aLL Along BY Daron Dean the coast 18 salt life From Amelia Island to 14 st. Augustine’s You’ve seen the phrase on the Jacksonville to St. Augustine, Storied Past back of trucks and on T-shirts, the First Coast charms visitors on the cover A timeline of key moments in but the locals know that Salt with its diversity and beauty. Stone sculpture of a lion’s St. Augustine’s 450-year history. Life is simply a way of being BY LAURA ANDERS LEE, face and mane in a col- by Laura Anders Lee one with the water. SHELLEY PRESTON AND umn at Flagler College BY Shelley Preston JENNIFER GREENHILL- in St. Augustine ©Ron S. Buskirk/Alamy TAYLOR

Inside front cover 47 advertiser index Waves on the Atlantic Ocean and the St. Augustine Beach Pier 48 Parting shot at sunrise ©Jon Bilous/ local treasure Shutterfly

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EDITORIAL EDITOR Laura Anders Lee Associate EDITOR Shelley Preston Associate Art Director Michael Dailey Regional Editorial Director Jay Bemis contributing Writer Jennifer Greenhill-Taylor contributing photographers Daron Dean, Jensen Hande

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contRIBUTORS s s Jenn ifer Greenhill-Taylor All Along the Coast: Jacksonville, pages 30-33 A former reporter and editor at the Florida Times-Union, and now an independent travel writer and novelist, Jennifer Greenhill-Taylor was a Neptune Beach resident for 15 years. She has traveled to and lived in many cities in Florida, the United States and Europe, and written about a wide variety of subjects, including finding the best olive oil and buffalo mozzarella cheese in southern Italy; swimming with dolphins in the Keys; visiting castles in Scotland; spending the weekend at a dude ranch in Central Florida; exploring the ancient complex at Crystal River Archaeological State Park; and profiling one of the last shrimp boat builders at Mayport.

Daron Dean Five Centuries of Majesty, pages 8-13 Photojournalist Daron Dean graduated from the University of Florida in 2004 and then worked for The Gainesville Sun, the Anchorage Daily News and The Dallas Morning News before joining the staff at The St. Augustine Record in 2006. His photo- graphs have appeared in major U.S. and inter- national newspapers and magazines as well as in shows at the Smithsonian. Dean is a fre- quent correspondent for The New York Times, Wall Street Journal and Thomson Reuters.

ss Jensen Hande Salt Life, pages 18-24 Based in Jacksonville, Jensen Hande is an award-winning com- mercial photographer with more than 15 years behind the lens. His photography has been featured in The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, People, Men’s Fitness, Parade and HBO Pictures. Passionate about the arts from a young age, he loves experimenting with new techniques and still follows his grandma’s advice to “do what you love and make a living out of it.”

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JAXGB_141200_Contributors.indd 6 12/4/14 1:02:45 PM JAXGB_141200_FullPages.indd 7 11/14/14 2:11:52 PM FIVE CENTURIES OF MAJESTY The oldest continuous municipality in the United States, St. Augustine celebrates its 450th anniversary this year. Explore the beauty and richness of this historic city.

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JAXGB_141200_f-PhotoEssay_jf.indd 8 12/4/14 9:37:37 AM FLAGLER COLLEGE WAS ONCE HOME TO THE MAGNIFICENT PONCE DE LEON HOTEL. ONCE CONSIDERED THE FINEST RESORT OF ITS DAY, IT REMAINS A GRAND EXAMPLE OF SPANISH RENAISSANCE ARCHITECTURE.

JAXGB_141200_f-PhotoEssay_jf.indd 9 12/4/14 9:38:24 AM (clockwise from left) guana tolomato matanzas national estuarine research reserve; our lady of la leche mission chapel; st. augustine lighthouse; oldest wooden school- house; flagler college

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Photo credits first page FROM LEFT: ©shutterstock/jon bilous, ©Daron Dean; this page clockwise from left: ©shutterstock/razvan balotescu; ©shutterstock/paul brennan; ©shutterstock/aneese; ©daron dean (2) WHERE GUESTBOOK WHERE 12/4/14 11:29:45 AM 11 aron dean aron dean; ©shutterstock/karen aron wunderman; dean; © D ©shutterstock/karen Photo credits clockwise from wheeler; dean; ©daron credits right: ©shutterstock/eve clockwise Photo © D

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Photo credit gotham book 5.5/9pt view of the castillothe of view aerial egrets; white greatlions, of bridge alligatorfarm; the st.the of augustine residentsmarcos; castillosan the de (clockwisefrom right) WHERE GUESTBOOK WHERE 12/4/14 9:41:01 AM 13 St. Augustine’s Storied Past 1400s 1500s 1530s

Pre-15th 1492 April 1513 1520s-1550s 1532 century Christopher Ponce de Spain creates Spanish explorer The Timucua Columbus lands near León comes the world’s first Hernando de Soto raids Indians live Venezuela, believing ashore near St. global economy Peru’s Incan empire and along the East he has landed near Augustine and with vessels returns to Spain with Coast of Florida India. christens the going to the New 18,000 ounces of gold. and Georgia. land la Florida in World and the In 1539, he sets out for honor of Spain’s Philippines, trad- North America and lands Easter Feast of ing silver and gold in Tampa Bay. the Flowers. from Panama and Mexico for porce- lain and silk from China. 1600s 1700s 1770s

late 1500s 1607 1620 1668-1672 1740-42 1763 July 4, 1776 A Spanish England England English pirates Fort Matanzas The Spanish The Declaration watchtower is establishes establishes loot and burn is built 14 miles lose Florida of Independence built at Matanzas Jamestown, Plymouth, St. Augustine, south of town. to England. is signed. Inlet, becoming Virginia. Massachusetts. and Castillo de the first naviga- San Marcos is tion aid in the built to protect United States. the city.

1870s 1900s 1960s

1861 1872 1878-1888 1905 1964 Florida secedes A public library Henry M. Flagler President Dr. Martin Luther from United is established on builds two luxury Theodore King, Jr. assists St. States in the Aviles Street. hotels, the Hotel Roosevelt stays Augustine leaders in Civil War. One Ponce de Leon at the Hotel marches, sit-ins and year later, the and the Alcazar. Ponce de Leon. swim-ins. city surrenders and remains under Union control.

1874 A new light- house is built on the site of the old watchtower.

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1559 1564 1572-73 1570s-1580s 1586 Spanish conquistador The French settle St. Augustine moves Conflicts ensue among Sir Francis Don Tristan de Luna near from Anastasia Island the French, Spanish Drake nearly settles Pensacola, Jacksonville. to the mainland, and and English for their burns down Fla., but a hurricane Mission Nombre de place in the New the city of St. destroys his 1565 Dios is established. World. Many of Spain’s Augustine. attempt. Pedro Menéndez settlements on the de Avilés founds Eastern Seaboard are St. Augustine.. destroyed.

1780s 1800s 1840s

1783 1787 1813 1821 1845 The United The U.S. The public square Florida becomes Florida becomes States Constitution is renamed Plaza a U.S. territory. the 27th state. and Great is signed. de la Constitución Britain sign to commemorate the Treaty Spain’s Constitution 1837-1875 of Paris, of 1812. The Castillo de ending the San Marcos is Revolutionary used as a pris- War. Spain on for Native regains American Indians. Florida.

1980s 1990s 2000s

1968 1980 1999 2012-2014 The Hotel The St. The Kessler St. Augustine is 2015 Ponce de Leon Augustine group re-opens named among St. Augustine becomes the Lighthouse the Casa Monica America’s favor- celebrates its home of Flagler begins a Hotel. ite beach towns in 450th anniversary. College. 15-year reno- Coastal Living and vation and Travel + Leisure, re-opens to among the top 10 visitors. historic cities by USA Today, and among the top towns to visit in National Geographic Traveler and Smithsonian.

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had White as White Chad Historicre-enactor Menéndez 12/4/14 9:17:47 AM

Photo credit gotham book 5.5/9pt Q&A

A Sailor’s Story Spanish admiral and first governor of Florida Pedro Menéndez de Avilés tells the history of St. Augustine’s founding—with some details that may just surprise you. By Laura Anders Lee

s the youngest of toward Havana. We’d travel up What happened next? government so that everything was 20 children in the east coast of La Florida then I was actually on house arrest in in place for me to become governor Spain’s 16th cen- cut east toward Spain. This global Spain for tax evasion—one of the and for St. Augustine to become tury feudal sys- economy, the first in the world, ways I could make money was sell- the first of many settlements that Atem, Pedro Menéndez was was built on the Spanish silver ing cochineal, a type of dye from I would make in Spanish Florida, destined for the Navy. At trade. Spain was the most powerful Mexico, that I could sell for an which at the time stretched from the age of 12, he had learned country in the world. exorbitant price in Europe—but Nova Scotia to Mexico. the trade, and by 16 he had I never declared it. I escaped and mastered it, and he went on Many say it was Christopher made my way to the king and told What were the challenges? to serve King Carlos V and Columbus, not Ponce de León, him I had to look for Juan. I couldn’t spend enough time to Prince Philip, who appoint- who discovered the United States. keep one settlement from failing ed him captain general of Columbus died on his fourth voy- And did the king agree? before running to another one. We the treasure fleet, the most age and never set foot on what All trips to Florida were forbid- began losing them one by one. And powerful admiral in the would become the continental U.S. den since de Luna lost his entire on a personal note, my daughter Spanish Armada. That role He was convinced until the day he settlement in Pensacola in 1559. Ana, the apple of my eye, was bru- eventually led him to Florida died he was traveling around the But I warned the king we could tally murdered by her father-in-law, where he founded the first islands on the coast of China. not let the French and English get and my son Juan was never found. European settlement in the to Florida first. I told him I would United States. When did you first set sights make friends with the Indians, How did you manage on Florida? Christianize them, and make such heartbreak? Tell us about your work on the I hadn’t given Florida any thought Florida a fortress. He agreed and I had boundless hope and opti- Spanish treasure fleet. until 1563. We had just gotten pardoned me. While I was prepar- mism that La Florida would be the Every year I brought gold and the largest treasure fleet that had ing for my trip, we discovered success that I wanted it to be. silver, porcelain and silk from the ever been assembled, but we were the French Protestant had already New World and China to the king. delayed in Havana. We would not established a settlement on the Why did St. Augustine last while The ships would leave Spain, go be able to beat the storm season, mouth of St. Johns River at Fort the other settlements failed? through the Caribbean, pick up and the king would have to file Caroline. So what was supposed The peninsula that St. Augustine silver in Colombia, then they’d bankruptcy. I could not risk the to be a small trip to look for my sits on and its isolated location stop in Panama, where they’d take whole fleet, so I took half to son became a mission to expel the makes it very defendable. There’s silver to the Philippines and trade Spain and left half with my son French from Florida. plenty of fresh water there, and that for items you couldn’t get in Juan to come later. I made it with there was plenty of cattle on Europe. We would bring all this my fleet, but my son’s ship was What was it like when Anastasia Island. And no small back to Panama City, hike over the wrecked. It was rumored he was you arrived? part was keeping friendly relations mountains to the Atlantic side and marooned somewhere on the I sent a company in advance to with the Indians. Eventually our

orida’s historic coast historic orida’s those ships would pick up more shores of the Peninsula. I knew I prepare for us. We quickly captured relationship became our salvation.

Photo credit p t book gotham 5.5/9 Photo ©f l silver and gold, making their way had to find him. Fort Caroline and established a That, and plain old luck.

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JAXGB_141200_f-Salt Life_jf.indd 18 12/4/14 9:28:27 AM Pre-dawn surfers, SaltPassionate anglers, recreational naturalists and Professional Beach bums make The First Coast’s Briny waters a way of Being. Meet the Locals. By Shelley Preston Photos by Jensen HandeLife

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JAXGB_141200_f-Salt Life_jf.indd 19 12/4/14 9:29:04 AM 20 JAXGB_141200_f-Salt Life_jf.indd 20 D WHERE GUESTBOOKWHERE I make my living.” The “money fish,” as he calls it, was nearly wiped out out wiped nearly was it, calls living.”he fish,”my as “money The make I St. the of crannies and lurk.to like fish nooks where places for Johns,hunting infinite almost the in spots sweet find to backwaters and marshes secluded to Jacksonville out locals and visitors at takes Landing, restaurateur a once was who angler, expert the suggests, name the As years. 18 for Adventures, Fishing charter,Backwater fishing Capt. David Borries of Jacksonville has turned it into his living; he’s run his Life. Salt the of hallmarks all are beachcombing and surfing fishing, Sport play. to out enthusiasts “The of east the ToSea,”the by City River outdoor bring banks.sandy shoreline of Atlantic miles 22 its from spring Bridge Street Main famous the and buildings tall and Jacksonville, in downtown heart the cleaves It Florida. in river longest the be to County,happens River Indian in south miles 200 begins River, which Johns St. north-flowing the of waters ish brack- St.Augustine.The or Island Jacksonville,Amelia in live you when Jus Locals Time, Good a For matter. Salt Life is synonymous with the Good Life on the First Coast. First the on Life Good the matter.with synonymous is Life Salt water doesn’tend, Jacksonville’sit the mix.In brand—it’s murky commercial a the and to culture allegiance their broadcast to phrase the use who life.of But, now,even folk Life Salt it’sof camaraderie the separate to hard way a of symbol the justremain to it wantedclearly who some of dismay there.”from off took just things.It for asking kept people and stickers some got we said.then and life.beach,”tattoos “It’s Hutto salt Wethe a had the on lie surf, fish, we do: we what just “It’spromotion. grassroots through brand full-fledged a into morphed had lifestyle a to ode buddy’s a as began what that 2004 in back Journal Business Jacksonville outside The told founders popularity media-shy two The circle. gained immediate Hutto-Moore the quickly saying the and community, sporting Life.Salt backs: their across tattoos with etched permanently it had and lifestyle their about phrase a by themselves their mutual obsession for surfing, distinguished fishing and all-things beach. instead They coined Moore and Hutto end, an to a means only were which jobs, day their by defined not contractor. Clearly ing fram- contractor,a Moore,irrigation Mike landscape and former a Hutto, River.St.Johns the of allure saline the and ocean the for passion a thing: “My favorite target is the red drum,” says Borries. “They’re the way way the “They’re Borries. says drum,” red the is target favorite “My but recreation, mere as Life Salt the experience to thankful are Many . Clothing, retail and even restaurants followed, to the the to followed, restaurants even and retail Clothing, off. took Really the in nerve a struck font graffiti-like the in expression rakish The Troy Jacksonville, from friends two with began It Life? Salt is What

h ietfe wt i, u i al ol dw t one to down boils all it but it, with identifies who everyone for meaning particular a have to seems It image of a sea turtle, maybe a hibiscus or a giant fish. an T-shirts,withto comeSUVs from everything on and Life.SaltSometimeswords,it: theyou’llsee sported Island Amelia to up and Jacksonville through Augustine, St. from A1A of stretch the along rive t d Wa Add ter ts ad o vi water avoid to hard It’s 12/4/14 9:30:32 AM

Photo credit gotham book 5.5/9pt WHERE GUESTBOOK 21

JAXGB_141200_f-Salt Life_jf.indd 21 12/4/14 9:33:15 AM years ago when it was commercially fished, but thanks to protection efforts, the red drum is now a sport fish. Borries limits his catch and releases fish that are of a certain size to ensure they are around to reproduce, giving future anglers a chance to experience the thrill. “That’s being a good steward of our waters,” he says, “It’s a ‘win’ for everyone.” Even though he has been running his business for nearly two decades, he says the St. Johns still surprises him. He sees a lot of positives that have come from the community recognizing the need to protect their valuable resource. “I see more bald eagles than I ever have before, more otters, mana- tees. Being out here everyday, I see what not everyone gets a chance to.”

The Ocean Scene On a recent Tuesday morning at Micklers Landing in Ponte Vedra Beach, before first light, a group of paddle surfers was getting ready to launch their long boards. These were the before-school surfers getting a session in before hitting the books. By the time the sun shimmied up the horizon, dozens of surfers dotted the waves. A willingness to wake before dawn for the chance to catch a good wave is in Tiffany Layton’s DNA. A professional surfer and instructor, the Jacksonville native has made a living off the ocean. She gave up a corporate job to open Jax Surf & Paddle last year and hasn’t looked back. Her goal is to make the water accessible to everyone. Surfing may be intimidating, but paddle boarding and paddle surfing are ways in. “It’s a lifestyle everyone wants to be a part of. We want people to be stoked about the possibilities.” Each community embraces the wonders of the coast in its own way. And who better to champion the glories of First Coast life than Andrea Samuels, mayor of St. Augustine Beach. “We, as a community, acknowledge the need for toes in the sand,” she says. “There are no high-rises here, so you have unobstructed views of the ocean. Nothing is more relaxing than the sound of waves crashing and wind blowing through your hair.” Besides fishing, surfing and lounging in the sand is a Salt Life ritual that happens May through October—the hatching of sea turtles. Amelia Island Sea Turtle Watch is a group of volunteers dedicated to keeping these endan- gered animals safe from human activity. Female sea turtles emerge from the ocean to lay their eggs in nests on the beach every year. After incubation, the hatchlings use the light of the moon to point them in the direction of the ocean. Because artificial light can cause confusion and lessen the chance that the animal will make it to the surf, the group successfully lobbied to restrict ocean-facing lights during hatching season. “The residents of Amelia Island are very supportive of our efforts,” says Mary Duffy, president of the group. “We have a substantial following.” One of her goals is to get visitors to learn more about the turtles’ needs. “Keep porch lights off to avoid disorienting nesting females and hatchlings; remove beach furniture from the beach each night (nesting females and hatchlings can become caught up in furniture, tents or toys), and fill in large holes dug on the beach during the day.”

Home turf Pride Locals on the First Coast, it’s clear, have tremendous pride in their home. The unusual access to so much natural land, coastal waters and the St. Johns River runs deep. Never mind the commercial aspira- tions of Salt Life, people here are absolutely dedicated to living their dreams

on or around the water. Kette r man © Ryan

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Photo credit gotham book 5.5/9pt WHERE GUESTBOOK WHERE 12/4/14 11:32:18 AM 23 Home Field Advantage Everbank field is one home sweet home for the jaguars. by laura anders lee

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Photo credit gothamopposite book page: 5.5/9 ©royalpt humbert; this page: top ©jacksonville times-union, bottom ©jaguars I xeineta’ wa fn dsre” e as “hr ae o score- no are “There boards like ours in the world. There is no in-stadium destination like our says. he deserve,” fans exceptional what an experience—that’s offer to is mandate happy.“Our man 12th the keep to takes it whatever do will and base fan strong a of importance the knows Giants,York New the and Cardinals Louis St. the both from rings ship day.”game on fans our from intensity and excitement the feel to easy play.very big It’sbeen a make to third- needs defense big the when and on downs escalates noise crowd “The seasons. four for roster the on Paulgame,”linebacker “Poz”beenPosluszny,themiddle hassaysof who love. the feeling are more players the and before, ever than are game the in involved fans ments, bumps.”goose get will you game, the during screens those on graphics and video the of some roll they when that guarantee when details the you’re of in the stands, lot but not a anymore. The miss video boards are you incredible. I because can home like at to games used the I seats.watching from and to get to escort private a with field the on “Not only are you right there, feet away from every play, you actually walk Kimbleton,News.4 Channel local with journalist broadcast and fan Jags a nearby.stations food and bars three with recliners power-leather,home-theater and consoles video-game open to any ticket holder. The space includes Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, tablets, 50. of party a for $12,500 around cost will it though cabana, fashionable a rent even or deck party new the access can fans NFL and college season, party.This larg- cocktail nation’s outdoor the est dubbed game, Georgia v. NCAA’s Florida the to host vacationfrozenpool?withoutdaiquirithea by FloridaHey,cabanas. what’sluxurya 16 and pools swimming two deck, party two-story a zone, end north the in and seating, team VIP on-field, the offers addition, In yards. 120 at itself field the than longer stretching world— the in stadium any of display video largest the River,boasts now Johns St. the and city’sskyline the of views impressive with already Field, EverBank stadium. the to back fans lure to game their upping are country h ognzto’ peiet Mr Lmig wo er champion- wears who Lamping, Mark president, organization’s The “Fans are louder and more in-tune with the progression and momentum enhance- the all With stadium,”the in feature new favorite my are seats Nikki field says “The cave fan 7,000-square-foot a is cave man a to answer Jacksonville’s played long has Field EverBank here. new not is atmosphere party A the over all teams HDTVs, and DVR theaters, in-home of world a In build a dream setting for die-hard fans and sports-loving visitors. sports-loving and fans die-hard for setting dream a build to Field EverBank to upgrades in million $63 over tossed recently has team championship-worthy.The certainly is stadium their but Jacksonville The rights.Jaguars may not have any Super Bowl wins under their belts braggingjust yet, the about all it’s football, n an exceptional experience experience exceptional an —that’swhat fans deserve. Thereare no scoreboards “Ourmandate is to offer likeours in the world.” water sports, and you can bet now it’ll be bragging about football,too. about bragging be it’ll now bet can you sports,and water cities.”31 those among weight its above punching is Jacksonville undeniable. is us of all gives it lift the and lives, their of facets all in NFL the of backdrop the enjoy can world the in cities 31 Lamping.is,”“Only says it that opinion my tainly NFL. the over all from picks football fantasy and teams favorite smart their with their up on keep and games phones other stream live also can has fans so field Wi-Fi its The up games. amped NFL other from highlights and replays Jags watch to fans allows screen massive The sunshine. Florida bright, the in clearly up shows technology,even smart screen to the thanks screens,and here.”they’re over-deliveronce then and games Jaguars attend to reason every fans give to want we because this of all do We fan. NFL today’s with directly connects that concept pioneering a is Cave Fan Farm State world.The the in Deck Clevelander Jacksonville is already known as a world-class destination for golf and golf fordestinationworld-class a as knownalready Jacksonvilleis world—it’scer-the in league sports greatest the arguably is NFL “The video smaller 15,000 of made is screen video new Field’s EverBank WHERE GUESTBOOK WHERE 12/4/14 9:26:03 AM 25 All Along the Coast Amelia island, jacksonville and St. Augustine

AMELIA’S WIDE ATLANTIC BEACHES

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LEFT: COURTESY OF THE ASTOR FAMILY; RIGHT: COURTESY AMELIA ISLAND CVB Beach where well-to-do African-Americans bought summer homes or or homes summer bought came to vacation. Today, African-Americans the beach is popular for all. American Beach is the well-to-do American where at spots tourism Beach black first the of one to home was it fact, In destination. tourism major a to industries military and fishing the around 1864.in looked have may fort the War.Spanish-American how the see Today,during can it visitors used briefly Army the when 1898, until garrisons by armed was it but battle, a saw never Clinch Fort railroad. cross-state Florida’sonly of link eastern the be to happened which Fernandina, of port the protect to Mary’sRiver St. the of mouth the at 1847 in began fort the of building the Parks, State the most well-preserved Civil War forts in the country. According to Florida Dec.23,1817. on Island captured Amelia finally States United The control. for warring constant island’s and the smugglers of advantage to took attractive who very pirates were port the from going and coming importing and exporting goods to and from the New World. for port The strategic rich goods a became Amelia on, time that From visitor. European ports.seagoing and architecture,cuisine,development its in ences influ- cultural of mix a retains Island history,Amelia contentious its of and VisitorsBureau.Because Convention Island the Amelia of CEO and flags,”Langley,different Gil eight presidentsays flown have to America in community only the Flags.” are “We Eight of “Isle name the earning powers,colonial the of all nearly by over barons.fought been has years,Amelia real-estate and 400 last soldiers the over but residents,island’s first the were pirates,Indians Timucuan includes past rich Amelia’s History Island possibilities.recreational of amount unbelievable an in pack coastline with trails.hiking preserve and shoreline undeveloped of miles island’sThe wildlife ofmiles 13 a be to happens also which country the in forts military oldest the of one Clinch, Fort is island the of tip northern the At winter homes and then, the quirky and lovely town of by Fernandina Beach. by,followed whiz resorts to Plush beach. there the and to leading here roads way narrow gives oaks, enormous from shadow and sun by highway,dappled The marshes. salt and forest pine by hardwood, framed maritime Atlantic the of views stunning with Park State Island Talbot of part a as unfurls Island A1A,Amelia on south the from Approached IslandAmelia PrestonBYShelley TOHOME H LAID-BACKLUXURYPLAYINGEXUDES WHILE AMELIA NORTHERNMOSTTHE FIRSTTHECOASTOF ic te, h rgo hs ope fo a omre etr based center commerce a from morphed has region the then, Since among Clinch, Fort is sites historical popular most island’s the of One recorded first the became Ribault Jean explorer French 1562, In istoric FERNANDINA BEACH. cities , ,

tours include ghost tours, Centre Street tours and private tours by request.by tours private and tours Street tours,Centre ghost include tours which offers a docent-led tour at 11 am and 2 pm daily. Custom docent-led History,of Museum Island state’smuseum,Amelia the spoken-history first beer.a for nickel a than and an elegant mahogany and oak bar­­oak and mahogany elegant an and cost $1.25. Today, it still has its pretty tile mosaic floor, embossed-tin ceiling whiskybottleofofficersyachtsmen. anda andcents 5 costbeer ofglass A captains, ship lure to hoping alternative, elegant an as created was Palace deployments. The between women and wine for looking sailors bawdy by says Fernandina, which was a major shipping port at the time, was overrun bar. lore a Local into converted was 1903 by and 1878 in store boot a as opened first building brick Florida.handsome,two-story in The bar oldest the arguably Saloon, Palace the at cocktail old-fashioned an with time in back step town, through clip-clopping After district. historic the through ride carriage horse-drawn a by is architecture Victorian area’s the about colorful past. One of the best ways for visitors to explore the city and learn Park.Burney through entered be can and TrailHeritage Black Florida the on stop first Another way to get familiar with Amelia’s fascinating past is at the the at is past fascinating Amelia’s with familiar get to way Another h tw o Fradn bis ih l-ol cam n bat a boasts and charm Old-World with brims Fernandina of town The —but you’ll have to pay a bit more more bit a pay to have you’ll ­—but ­­­ WHERE GUESTBOOK WHERE SEA HORSES SEA 12/4/14 11:39:07 AM 27 special advertising section

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©Amelia island cvb towel—are all attractions.all towel—are beach a down throwing simply camping—or and hiking paths, Bike fort. military 19th-century the at history to tie its as well as fauna beach dunes and natural the preserving on keen a is is park Clinch state Fort The option. vehicles, terrific motor no with island of piece a and prefer you Bars If course. by. putt-putt come to easy are bite simple a and beer a so area, and this line also restaurants playground a main are the Near lot sand. the parking on vehicles allows beach family-friendly The Fernandina’sdistrict.from historic access to beaches quickest the of one and Point Peter’s is Park Beach Main beach. Park, the to access drive-up allow all State Park Seaside Island Amelia American, permit. issued or it Love come. they locally a requires but as beaches, many at allowed is driving diverse it, beach loathe as are Amelia on scenes beach The Beach all.for golf of round fun a for make settings tee course is famous for ocean views and scenic dunes, but the ideal layout and coursestopthenamedGolfofwomenDigest.onefor by BobbyThe Weed was Omni the at Links Ocean golf. of round a with is beauty island’s the tamed, a great way to enjoy see.”to tunate for are few that fauna and flora its of perspective the get to waterways Amelia’s on glide peacefully to ful wonder is “It Excusions. Kayak Island Amelia owns Mark, husband, her with who, Bullington, kayak,” Kim says via natural the in taking while to still stand seems “Time paddle. to creeks peaceful endless has west the to marshland vast the think Island, Amelia of they when minds travelers’ many on thing shore.sandy the lapping waves course,sun-speckled of and,seabirds,dolphins of host a see to likely ride,you’re gentle your on their private beach access to the wilds of . While Service, provides expert guides who lead you and your trusty steeds from Park Florida the by endorsed Ranch, Seahorse Kelly beach. the on riding horseback is must-dos iconic most Amelia’s of water. One the on near place or take activities most town, island an in expect would you’d As RecreationIsland all If you enjoy your nature first the is ocean While long the coalongthe Bumming - - a st oce a t the omni the t a n linksn WHERE GUESTBOOK WHERE 12/4/14 9:20:06 AM 29 all along the coast

Downtown Jacksonville Skyline

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©visit jacksonville (2) Ritz Theatre and La Villa Museum offer insight into the city’s substantial and palace.The movie Science restored lovingly of a Theatre,Florida the Museum and History; the space; performance Café intimate with an Art, and Contemporary Nola of Museum the Orchestra; Symphony Jacksonville the to home is Arts Performing the for Center Times-Union hub.production silent-movie a was Today,the choice: of lack no Jacksonvilleis there since downtown heading been have seeking pursuits Those refined complex. more sports nearby the at games Suns’ and Jaguars’ after and before congregate fans Sports past. Prohibition city’s the ing include spots hot Late-night celebrat- Volstead,The and speakeasy music, a live bistros.Underbelly, to home casual and Indochine exotic to bb’s,and Cellar Wine House, Nearby Chart crowds. elegant the from diverse range restaurants attract Parade Light and Festival Jazz the and arts,the and technology innovation, celebrate to Festival Spark One the at gather people million a of quarter A bridges. several or Skyway free the taxis, water via Southbank to Northbank from easily hop can who visitors and locals attract access public of miles three Riverwalk’s The living. urban on focus a with rescued being are treasures architectural city’s high-rises.the of more and Hall, City Prairie-Style houses now masterpieces these of soaring One Chicago’s by influenced the much from rose ashes, downtown Jacksonville’s 1901, of Fire Great the After Downtown young,city.demographically historic,but this the of vibrancy to adding scene, food the reinvent brewers and chefs of wave a as new so, do to continue and millennia, for residents fed have area the of the 46,000-acre Timucuan EcologicalandHistoricalPreserve. The riches to spaces green riverfront tiny from system, park urban largest country’s the boasts Jacksonville water: the about all it’snot But sights. common tion also attracted the military, making aircraft carriers and high-tech jets mercial ports on the Atlantic Coast. The port and the city’s strategic loca- com- largest the of one to home is city the as neighborhoods, charming river.the of sides both on pastdistricts glide rant ships cruise and Cargo that links residential areas, commercial towers, entertainment and restau- waterways. navigable Downtown’s of once industrial waterfront is now the welcoming Riverwalk miles 1,000 than more boasts city the shore, Atlantic the of and sands broad Waterway,the Intracoastal 1822) to Johns the River, St.to in the From pot. (founded melting cultural historic miles) square this (840 sprawling of lifeblood the provides Water Jacksonville B highbrowculture and Bestof Y JENNIFER A ll worlll GREENHILL d s: b - ig city ancityig TAYLOR L ow-neighborhood Key d

b eachtown, s. s. district, independent coffee houses and Sun-Ray Cinema, a restored 1927 1927 a restored Cinema, Sun-Ray and houses coffee independent district, art warehouse growing a nightclubs,boutiques, hip cafés, outdoor with Points, Five is corner the around Saturday.Just every overpass I-95 the of shade the in produce,held organic is music,and Market,live art with Arts Riverside bustling away. Nearby,the block collection a just art are gardens world-class and museum’s Cummer The terrace. rooftop the from sunset the enjoy can diners Sheep,where Black as such restaurants Park.river,Central the of across Todayviews superb offers from it steps brothers Olmsted famed the by designed was Park, Memorial treasure, central Neighborhoods.” Its Great 10 country’s“Top the of one voted recently was scene, dining vibrant and parks cottages, brick streets, lined Listed in the National Registry of Historic Places, Riverside, with its tree- Riverside/ Brewery.Aardwolf does as beers, craft local, of choice a movie offers Exchange Grain and Art-Deco Grape an Theater,Marco’s San films. Marco and dinner,drinks offers which 1938 San in built house the should nor missed, not be should country, the in theater community Theatre oldest Taverna. the and Jacksonville, Matthews Grotto, The of and French- Aix the plenty Bistro to inspired offers diners neighborhood square from ranging the eateries, in theaters, choices and galleries art Chocolatier, Peterbrooke’s original the boutiques, clothing trendy with water.Lined with town the supplied once well whose and heart, its at Square Marco San the Venice-inspired with Marco, San is downtown from minutes Just MarcoSan century,rebirth. last a the experiencing of is turn the African-American history, and nearby Springfield, home to the wealthy at uptownjacksonville A vondale/FivePoints WHERE GUESTBOOK WHERE 12/4/14 9:21:01 AM

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serving up Mayport shrimp and seafood in an authentic setting.authentic an in seafood and shrimp Mayport up serving with Station Naval Mayport near views of ships, and local restaurants such as Singleton’s and Safe Harbor, crossing river charming a Ferry provides Mayport The hiking. and bird-watching for place perfect a Park, Gardens,1914,and in Zoo founded and Jacksonville TalbotState Island quarters offerinsightintoantebellumlife. The northsideisalsohometo War. ’s restored main house and coquina-walled slave Civil the through people Timucuathe from years, 6,000 explores which Park, Historic and Ecological French Timucuan vast the where of part is also fort that of It’s first. reconstruction see A ago. years 450 Caroline, Fort visitors at foot set first many explorers what is town of part this station, Amtrak the and terminal ship cruise the airport, the With Northside jazz.live Brick, with and The Fish Biscottis,Blue options,like dining upscale and stores antique boutiques,Avenue, high-end Avondaleoffers addition in Intuition Ale St.Works.Johnslike along Taco, breweries west to blocks few A Corner and Lola’s Fire, Wood Pele’s owned like locally with restaurants Street King adjacent on emerged has district craft beer and food A food. and films cult in specializes that theater movie coastalongthe all taking in the sights from the Jacksonville Beach Fishing Pier.Fishing Beach Jacksonville the from sights the in taking just here,or popular also is exercise.Surfing and tanning combining deftly shore, the along bike to is transport of forms favorite the of One tower,artsy,resort with border the upscale,marking Beach. Atlantic Ocean One the at sharply rises Beach,then Neptune of dunes and tages cot- low the to dips commercial.skyline most The towns,and three the of Beach,southernmost Jacksonville of towers hotel and condo the of windows the off flashes sun perspective.rising perfect The the offers surfers before-school the with ride kayak morning shoreline.early An of Atlantic miles 22 by together tied are communities beach Three T he Beaches Beaches he J acksonvilleBeach fishing pier fishing 12/4/14 9:21:16 AM

©visit jacksonville Jacksonville Beach Jacksonville Beach offers more restaurants, nightspots and plain old watering holes than both of the other beaches combined, plus the attrac- tion of the beach itself. If the ocean is not enough to satisfy the kids, Adventure Landing Water Park with its go-kart track, miniature golf and roller coaster should exhaust any energy they have left. At the end of Beach Boulevard stands the distinctive tower of the American Red Cross Volunteer Life Saving Corps building, and nearby is Sea Walk Pavilion, home to free music festivals and movie nights. , a showcase for national and local rock musicians, is just across First Street from the Pavilion. A stroll along the Sea Walk takes you past waterfront restau- rants, surf shops and tourist emporia filled with sea shells, sunglasses and kitschy memorabilia, and the Jacksonville Beach Fishing Pier offers a place to drop a line in the ocean or just enjoy the view. A block inland, the J. Johnson Gallery, a yellow, Mediterranean building owned by pho- tographer Jennifer Johnson, exhibits works by internationally known contemporary artists. The Casa Marina hotel, haunt of silent-film stars from Jacksonville’s “Winter Film Capital of the World” era, is a great place to enjoy dinner or a glass of wine while watching the moon rise from the sea. The Beaches Museum and History Park offers a glimpse into the area’s past with its restored 19th-century home, a chapel and a 28-ton steam locomotive.

Neptune Beach Neptune Beach has maintained its residential personality by restricting building height on the beachfront, meaning its broad sands are always bathed in sunlight. To experience life as it’s lived in this funky beach community, a rent-a-bike ride along Midway and The Strand passes eclectic cottages and garage apartments. The Seahorse, a flamingo-pink, old-Florida motel, forms the north-end landmark, along with Pete’s Bar, serving drinks since the ’30s. Rumor has it that Hemingway lifted a glass there. Beaches Town Center, a shopping and dining district shared with neighboring Atlantic Beach, is home to the Book Mark, a venerable inde- pendent book store, and a variety of eateries, from Sliders Seafood Grill, an oyster bar and restaurant, to Mezza, a brick-oven pizzeria. Custom goldsmith Jay Lubeck offers art jewelry at Jewels by Lubeck.

Atlantic Beach Though it begins at One Ocean, a towering resort hotel, the rest of Atlantic Beach is more residential, with century-old beach cottages nes- tled between soaring architectural residences. The Atlantic Beach side of Beaches Town Center presents more dining and shopping choices, from the New Orleans-inspired Ragtime, which pioneered the local craft beer movement three decades ago, to Poe’s Tavern. A few blocks away from the ocean on Atlantic Boulevard are two restaurants enjoyed by locals: Seafood Kitchen and the Fish Company, both offering fresh Mayport shrimp and seafood.

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The Bridge of Lionsy

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left to right: ©Istock; ©Getty images; ©Florida’s Historic Coast years later, Pedro Menéndez de Avilés left Spain under direction of the of direction under Spain left Avilésde Menéndez later,Pedro years colony. a for Fifty-two place ideal an was Florida that back word sent he settlement, a establish not did he While crown. Spanish the for claim a staking St. near Augustine, landed León de Ponce explorer 1513, In April Florida’s St.of committee. Augustine’scommemoration 450th director Claire,Ste. churches,”Dana and adds market fish a making, beer exhibits. special and re-enactments visits,historical festival,tall-ship pope,the from visit a with complete Spain,of queen and king the winea bash,birthday big a plans and anniversary 450th its commemorates city the ever,as than stronger is pride year,local This States. United the in their proud place in history as the oldest permanent European settlement and sites hometown their of tired grow never natives the and home, at right themselves make travelers The tourist. a who’s and local tell a who’s to difficult It’s revelers. with with overflow spill taverns streets bayfront and cobblestone sightseers, narrow sea, the by city and picturesque small this In below. Bay Matanzas on bob The sailboats while chest.sky blue treasure the centuries-old pierce Museum Lightner the a and College Flagler of towers of majestic keyhole the through like is peering time first the for Lions of Bridge the from Augustine St. Seeing 450 St.Augustine BY ( kingfora birthdayparty450th itsfor celebration a in fit nation’syear-longthrowsThe a city oldest to visit in september in tovisit set letizia princess and felipe Prince laura anderslee Y ears of ears F ounding A princess and a pope).princessa and History had 120 houses, a tavern, wine and we Plymouth, at landed Pilgrims South.”to North from not and North to South from settled sciously distorted. The country was con- been has history U.S. known. least the it’salso yetnation, the in history longest the and interesting “Florida has the most unique, most state. the around re-enactments cal histori- performs which History, Walker,LivingFlorida presidentof Davis says port,” first first the library, the system, school first the ment, the first free-black settlement, “Half a century before the the before century a “Half settle- first the to home “We’re as a symbol for the city.the for symbol a as today stands fort failed.Thesettlements Spanish other when persevere to Augustine St. allowed Indians, Timucuan the of help the with paired fort, the of strength The cannonballs. of blasts the absorbed actually it strong, builtmassivethefort area’sfrom the plentiful coquinashells, materiala so city.the protect to built Spanish Marcos The San de Castillo the had Spain of Mariana century,Queen 17th and the in settlement, attack the massive another demolished following nearly 1586, in who Drake, Francis Sir by was attack pirate first The attacks. many from suffered Augustine St. of settlement Spanish the World,and New the in place their for England 1565.”to back traced be can that cultures of blend a is and flavor very and character is in European Augustine St. here. right America of genesis very the experience groups.canVisitors Hispanic five and and Italian French,Africans,enslaved free both him with had he boat, the off got Menéndez city. “When the of resident 47-year a Boles, Joe Mayor Augustine St.pot,” says ing with St. Augustine in 1565. “We were ground zero for the starting American melt- seaboard, Eastern the on settlements of string a establish to king n h ery as tnin rn tog ewe San Fac and France Spain, between strong ran tensions days, early the In downtownparade WHERE GUESTBOOK WHERE a festive a 12/4/14 9:21:51 AM 41 42 JAXGB_141200_AlongTheCoast.indd 42 WHERE GUESTBOOKWHERE

1968, and the Alcazar now houses the Lightner Museum.Lightner the houses now the Alcazar 1968,and in College Flagler of home the became Leon de Ponce Hotel today. The hotel a as used properties three the of only the is which Hotel, Monica Casa nearby Franklin W.the architect built to who land Smith sold also were guests Theodore Roosevelt, Joseph famous Pulitzer, the Mark Twain Among and Babe Ruth. Maynard. Flagler George artist ceiling renowned and by walls the on murals hand-painted jeweler—and famous of the Tiffany—son Comfort Louis by windows stained-glass 79 with ing ceil- domed 80-foot an featured Leon de Ponce Hotel architects.The as Carrère and Thomas Hastings, designers of the New York Public Library, John hired Flagler destinations. other with properties his link to Railway the and Leon Alcazar, de and he Ponce purchased the the Jacksonville, St. hotels, Augustine luxury & Halifax River two built He Augustine. St. for potential tourism great Rockefeller,D.saw John with Oil Standard co-owned Flagler,who M. Henry businessman American 1880s, the In A coastalongthe all recipes a modern twist.modern tiny,a from recipes Everyone oceanfront to bakeries Spanish traditional giving by history the to homage pay Plant.chefs Ice Area the at vodka distilled locally with made cocktails hand-crafted sip professionals take students advantage of happy hour at Meehan’s college Irish pub on the bayfront; and Quarter; young Colonial in Caballo Taberna the at tapas rum.sailorsandsloshingbeerthecheap Today’svisitorssangriashareand Living,USACoastal Todayof likes Smithsonian. the and from lades million tourists, 13,000 locals and 7,000 students and has received acco- 6 with today destination travel fresh and a relevant St.remains Augustine S A t. vilÉs carriagetourvilÉs In the 1700s, St. Augustine was home to 40 taverns. But long gone are are gone long But taverns. 40 to home was St.Augustine 1700s, the In R A esort ugustine C ommunity T oday 12/4/14 9:21:59 AM

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©the tasting room have felt when coming ashore way back then.back way ashore coming when felt have the sand is an amazing, godly feeling, much like the Spanish explorers must Watchingday’sthe the on leaving sunrise and the Atlantic in footsteps first beach. the to out boardwalk the the take and into Mickler’sLanding at lot Pull today.public wildness its in beautiful yet explorers, early for ardu- ous Waterway—surely Intracoastal the from road the separates forest palmetto dense and scruffy the left, the window,to car and the from feet Driving up AIA towardPonte Vedra, ontheright Atlantic Oceanisjust city’score.the historic of heart the through corridor charming another George, St. is Nearby haunted. be to said that’s store antique an and galleries art and shops local cafés, sidewalk with lined is street quaint AvilésStreet,nation’s the 1573.street, to platted dating oldest narrow, The is Constitución de Plaza the of south carriage.Just horse-drawn or trolley a from sites the admire or castillo the to lighthouse the from sites historic favorite,Spanish the for shrimp and peppers datil local and juice orange Florida uses and tapas as fritters paella makes by thehistory, yetwealwayswanttore-createitinasense,” hesays. Luma PuertoRico, feels connectiona with theSpanish heritage. “Wegetinspired and seafood produce. local farm-fresh featuring cuisine Floribbean and Southern, of Caribbean pot Spanish, melting a find will oils here olive Foodies sausages. ham, chorizo Iberico and cheese, Manchego like goods imported offering St. brewery,own its sports Augustine market Spanish a and winery own its today.trend on yet past the that’s of cuisine thoughtful innovative both up seafood shacks and elegant dining rooms in Victorian mansions are serving with a modern twist modern a with Spanish cuisine With all the history, visitors should be sure to leave time for the beaches. dozen a than more visit can visitors city, the of taste a getting After from hails family whose Room, Tasting the of Luma Michael Chef gambas al ajallo. al gambas

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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT 49 World Golf Hall of Fame of WorldHall Golf 49 Jacksonville Theatre 38 WalksCity Augustine St. 44 & Science of Museum 38 Museum Lightner 44 904-251-2320 ParksState Florida i2 904-823-3378 ToursCollege Flagler BC Museum Island Amelia 28 904-557-5307 KayakIsland Amelia 28 Dining & Theatre Alhambra 5 ATTRACTIONS ADVERTISERINDEX worldgolfhalloffame.org 904-940-4123 Augustine St. WorldPlace 1 Golf theatrejax.com 904-396-4425 Jacksonville MarcoBlvd.San 2032 staugustinecitywalks.com 904-825-0087 Augustine St. St.Granada 4 themosh.org 904-396-6674 Jacksonville Circle Museum 1025 (MOSH)History lightnermuseum.org 904-824-2874 Augustine St. St. King 75 floridastateparks.org ParkState Cultural Island GeorgeFort TalbotParksState Island ParkState Island Amelia ponce125.com Augustine St. 74St. King ameliamuseum.org 904-261-7378 Beach Fernandina ThirdSt. S. 233 History of ameliaislandkayak.com Island Amelia Excursions alhambrajax.com 904-641-1212 Jacksonville Blvd. Beach 12000 38 O’ Brothers Irish Pub Irish Brothers O’ 38 MoxieKitchen+Cocktails 37 Grill Mossfire The 36 House Seafood & Pub Irish Meehan’s 45 Matthew’sRestaurant 39 Shack M 36 Marco& San Indochine 38 Downtown Indochine 28 Augustine St. Gatos Dos 45 Jax Gatos Dos 32 RestaurantSheep Black 33 DINING/NIGHTLIFE obrothersirishpub.com 904-854-9300 Jacksonville Margaret1521St. moxiefl.com 904-998-9744 Jacksonville DriveIsland 4972Big mossfire.com 904-355-4434 Jacksonville 1537MargaretSt. meehansirishpub.com 904-810-1923 Augustine St. Avenida20 Menendez matthewsrestaurant.com 904-396-9922 Jacksonville Ave.2107Hendricks mshackburgers.com 904-241-2599 AtlanticBeach AtlanticBlvd. 299 indochinejax.com 904-503-7013 Jacksonville 1974MarcoBlvd.San Lounge Buddha The indochinejax.com 904-598-5303 Jacksonville St.Adams E. 21 dglounge.com 904-825-0502 Augustine St. St. Hypolita 66 dosgatosjax.com 904-354-0666 Jacksonville ForsythSt. E. 123 blacksheep5points.com 904-380-3091 Jacksonville St. Oak 1534

7 WasabiJapanese 37 TavernaYamas 4 TavernaMarcoSan 39 Room Sham Shim The 32 O’Hara’s Scarlett 45 904-543-3797 Vedra Ponte Beach RestaurantMedure 46 Poppy’sItaliano 34 Bar Noodle A Pho- 38 44 San Sebastian Winery Sebastian San 44 EvelyneTalman 29 FlowersShirleyby 42 Spa Day Debbie’s 46 SHOPPING/SPAS wasabi-steakhouse.com 904-997-6528 Jacksonville DriveRiverCoast10206 Steakhouse tavernayamas.com 904-854-0426 Jacksonville CourtLake9753 Deer tavernasanmarco.com 904-398-3005 Jacksonville MarcoBlvd.San 1986 shimshamroom.com 904-372-0781 Beach Jacksonville St. First N. 333 scarlettoharas.net 904.824.6535 Augustine St. St. Hypolita 70 restaurantmedure.us AIA N. 818 poppysitaliano.net 904-273-7272 VedraPonte 832-1A1A phoanoodlebar.com 904-353-0320 Jacksonville W.117 St.Adams 157 King St. 157King evelynetalman.com 904-491-4878 Beach Fernandina HighwayCoastFirst 4800 staugustine-florist.com Augustine St. 866-273-6358 debbiesdayspasalon.com 904-825-0569 Augustine St. Blvd.Anastasia 403

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