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Wednesday, March 02

Landing in Hong Kong, we arrived too early (06:00) to be informed of the departure gate for our connecting flight, Cathay Pacific 785, scheduled to depart at 10:15. That would be announced later. But in the meantime we could go to the duty free shop. Liz had learned that the tax rate for liquor in Bali was quite steep but we could bring two bottles into the country. We were sure that would be more than enough.

Ngurah Rai International Airport, also known as Denpasar International Airport (DPS), is located in southern Bali, 13 km south of Denpasar. The International terminal has a Balinese architectural theme and has separate departure and arrival halls. Major renovation has taken place since 2011 and work continues to make improvements to both the international and domestic terminals.

Once we cleared security and immigration checkpoints we entered the terminal and began looking for a World Spree representative. Since San Francisco, we had met several couples who also were on our tour. We could see some of them and others, all trying to find a point of contact. Ultimately we did

235 locate our guide who was trying to hold up a World Spree placard while also trying to use the back of it to check off of our group members.

Situated in the tropics close to the equator, Bali is part of the Indonesian archipelago but has always retained a unique identity. Balinese , which has its roots in Indian Hinduism and Buddhism, is the predominant religion and shapes much of the island's life and culture. An estimated 20,000 temples and shrines scatter the island and colorful religious ceremonies can regularly be seen.

Our guide said, “my is i empat August.” He rounded up 22 people at the airport midst all the confusion and then we were off for an hour and a half drive to Alaya Hotel. As the bus drove August explained his name and went into a brief description of how people are named in this country as they do not use as we know them.

“In Bali we all use the same naming system. We are named by our of birth. A child is satu (one); dua (two); tiga (three); or empat (four). If there are more than four children the sequence begins again with the fifth also called satu. If the child is male the name is preceded by 'i' or female by 'ni'. If you call out to a friend, 'Hey I satu' in a crowd 25% could respond so we add a to reduce the confusion. So i empat August identifies me as August, the forth child, male, in our .” Using that system our names are “i empat John” and “ni tiga Liz.”

I did look up the naming system later and it is a bit more complicated as the names can also indicate caste identification.

“The Balinese name is a naming system used by the of Bali, and the western parts of neighboring island of , Indonesia, which is characterized by the use of four 'typical' names. Since most Balinese are Hindus, most names are , while others still use native Balinese one. Regardless of being male or female, each person receives one of four names based on birth order. Though there are significant variations in the four names of Balinese people, some due to caste membership, and others due to regional customs and variations in the Balinese language between the North and the South of the island, there are four names in Balinese culture that are repeated frequently. The firstborn is "Wayan" or "Gede" or "Putu", second is "Made" or "Kadek", third is "Nyoman" or "Komang" (Man or Mang for short), and fourth is "Ketut" (often elided to Tut). (The vowels are pronounced vowels similarly as in Spanish or Italian). Balinese names are rendered into Roman script by the Romanization of the Indonesian language. The spelling to pronunciation relationship is said to be "perfect" because the spelling of words was revised significantly in the 70's and/or 80's (and even more recently).”

Before we left the airport we had marked our bags with tags already prepared with our room number (205) at the Alaya Ubud Hotel . “With 60 luxurious suites, Alaya Resort Ubud is a sanctuary of serenity and sophistication in the culturally charged village of Ubud

236 in the island of Bali. It has been built with rare sensitivity towards the surrounding environment and shares its terrace views with a number of the communities' local independent cafes and eateries, including the neighboring Bebek Bengil restaurant and Monkey Forest. As part of Ubud's evolving hospitality scene, the exotic boutique property offers guests a stylish place to stay that reflects Ubud's and Bali's unique artistry. A number Bali's most respected and talented designers have collaborated to create this elegant hotel with a distinct sense of belonging.”

By the time we collected passports at the desk and were issued keys our bags were in the room. We partially unpacked and went to change money in the lobby. The front desk does not perform that function but there was a Currency Exchange office 500 meters from the hotel. We exchanged $200.00 = 2,655,619.66 IDR (Indonesian Rupiah) so we were millionaires with need for larger wallets. Our group would be going out for dinner and we wanted to have some pocket money before we left the hotel.

Then we walked up the street to the corner and the Coco Supermarket. We waited in line as there were few clerks manning the cash registers although there were plenty of clerks in the store. Then we left and made a quick stop at a shop where we could buy a couple cans of tonic to go with the bottle of gin we brought from the airport. By this time we needed to gather in the hotel lobby to go to dinner.

Many of our group noticed the decorations in front of many of the buildings and August said our visit coincided with Galungan, a Balinese holiday celebrating the victory of dharma over adharma. "It marks the time when the ancestral spirits visit the Earth. The last day of the celebration is Kuningan, when they return. The date is calculated according to the 210-day Balinese calendar.

Galungan marks the beginning of the most important recurring religious ceremonies. The spirits of deceased relatives who have died and been cremated return to visit their former homes, and the current inhabitants have a responsibility to be hospitable through prayers and offerings. The most obvious sign of the celebrations are the penjor - bamboo poles with offerings suspended at the end. These are installed by the side of roads. A number of days around the Kuningan day have special names, and are marked by the organization of particular activities."

“The penjor is a tall, curved bamboo pole decorated with leaves with an offering at the base. This is one of the media used by Hindus in Bali as part of almost every important ceremony, especially for the anniversary temple celebrations.

The Sri Jaya Kasunu manuscript states that the penjor symbolizes the mountain and the mountain itself is the symbol of the universe. Therefore, for the Balinese

237 the penjor is synonymous with Mount Agung, the highest and holiest mountain in Bali.

The aim of erecting penjors at Galungan is to show devotion to God in His manifestation as Hyang Giri Pati (the God of the mountain). Mountains with deep forests hold a lot of water, which flows into rivers. This then fulfils water needs for irrigation and drinking water.

During Galungan celebrations, each family erects a penjor outside their gate, which makes the whole neighborhood look splendid.”

Our driver let us off near the Ubud and we walked about a block to the Cafe Lotus Ubud. Tables had been reserved for us and our group had the opportunity to meet one another as we looked out over the gardens toward the stage about 25 meters in front of us. Here we would be able to enjoy a Balinese Folklore Program which featured the “Spirit of Women” Ballet.

“The story of the Ramayana greatly inspires the Balinese. Many of their dances are based on this great story, which is often depicted in a ballet. The Balinese version differs from the Indian Version. It is told that Rama, as the first son in a family, was the heir to the Ayodya kingdom but the king's second wife, through her treachery forced the king to crown her own son as the King of Ayodya and asked him to send Rama and his wife into exile.

Rama therefore went with his wife, Sita and his beloved younger brother, Laksmana into a forest called Dandaka. Usually the first act of the ballet depicts Rama and entourage in the of the Dandaka forest. Rahwana, the evil King of Alengka, enchanted by the beauty of Sita, wanted to have her as his concubine. He sent one of his knights, Marica, to tempt Sita by transforming himself into a golden deer. Sita, captivated by the deer, asked her husband to catch the golden deer.

The next act explains how Rama succeeds in hunting the golden deer but as his arrow struck the golden deer it transformed back into Marica. Meanwhile Sita heard a distant cry for help. Laksmana, who had been asked by his brother to look after his sister-in-law, tried to explain to her that the cry sounds were very suspicious. Nevertheless, Sita was convinced that someone was in need of help. So she sent Laksmana to look for this person and to help whomever it is. In his desperate attempt, Laksmana asked Sita, no matter what would happen, to stay inside the guarding circle that he created.

Rahwana, knowing that the circle protected Sita, transforms himself into an old priest. He approaches Sita and asks her for a drink. Sita, without hesitation, extends her hands beyond the circle to hand him the water. Rahwana takes advantage, snatches her hand and takes her to his Palace in Alengka. On the way, Rahwana encounters a mighty eagle Jatayu. By every means possible, Jatayu tries to rescue Sita from the evil king but fails and is killed by Rahwana. Rama

238 and Laksmana find the dying Jatayu who tells them the whole story of what had happened to Sita. In his attempt to release his wife, Rama seeks the help from Hanoman and his monkey soldiers. Hanoman finds Sita in the palace's garden. She had been asked by Rahwana to marry him but she would rather die.

Hanoman convinces Sita that he is Rama's messenger and talks of a plan. Rahwana catches Hanoman and burns his tail who then sets fire to the palace's' gardens. In the last act, Rama and his troops are depicted attacking Rahwana's palace. Finally Rama manages to kill Rahwana and therefore takes his wife back to his country.”

Our dinner tickets included access to the stage apron and we were encouraged to walk through the water park to the stage and take pictures.

The Cafe Lotus prepared mini Rijstafel for two for our group. Liz and I have had Rijstafel (rice table) before and we delighted to have this version the first day in Bali. We were offered a platter of Mini- Rijstafel – consisting of Bebek (smoked duck), chicken with , prawns, & chicken sates, sayur (mixed Bali ), potato , tempe, – with yellow nasi (rice cone). Water and soft drinks were included with the menu and Liz and I also enjoyed two liter bottles of Bitang Beer with our dinner. This would be our go-to beverage throughout Bali. It was always very cold and very welcome.

As we were returning to our hotel August briefed us concerning a need to stop in the cafe and make a reservation and menu selection for . This turned out to be a great idea and we enjoyed the choices of time and menu to fit in with the next day's schedule but the flow of information was often incomplete, untimely, or inaccurate. We quickly learned to question and re-question the information offered by our tour guide.

Thursday, March 03

After a delightful breakfast of Nazi Goring, rice wrapped in leaf cone, fresh fruit and a small pastry, thus combining east and west traditions, we reassembled in the courtyard and boarded our bus for our first outing.

"The Ubud Monkey Forest is a nature reserve and complex. Its official name is the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (Balinese Mandala Suci Wenara Wana), and its name as written on its welcome sign is the Padangtegal Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary. The Ubud Monkey Forest is a popular tourist attraction and is often visited by over 10,000 tourists a month.

239 The Ubud Monkey Forest describes its mission as conservation of the area within its boundaries according to the Hindu principle of Tri Hata Karana ("Three ways to reach spiritual and physical well-being"), which seeks to make people live harmoniously during their lives. The "three ways" to this goal under the Tri Hata Karana doctrine are harmonious relationships between humans and humans, between humans and the natural environment, and between humans and The Supreme God. Accordingly, the Monkey Forest has a philosophical goal of creating peace and harmony for visitors from all over the world. It also seeks to conserve rare plants and animals for use in Hindu rituals and to provide a natural laboratory for educational institutions, with a particular emphasis on research into the social interaction of the park's monkeys with one another and their interaction with the park's natural environment.

The Monkey Forest grounds are home to three Hindu temples, all apparently constructed around 1350.

1. The Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal ("Padangtegal Great Temple of Death"), also known as the Main Temple, lies in the southwestern part of the park. The temple is used for worshiping the god Hyang Widhi in personification of Shiva, the Recycler or Transformer.

2. The Pura Beji, or Beji Temple, in the northwestern part of the park, is used for the worship of Hyang Widhi in personification of the goddess Gangga. A "Holy Spring" bathing temple, it is a place of spiritual and physical cleansing and purification prior to religious ceremonies.

3. The Pura Prajapati, or Prajapati Temple, located in the northeastern part of the park, is used to worship Hyang Widhi in personification of Prajapati. A cemetery adjacent to this temple receives the bodies of the deceased for temporary burial while they await a mass cremation ceremony, held once every five years."

Later August made reference to this mass cremation ceremony but it was my impression that people who might not have the resources for a timely cremation ceremony could delay the requirement by this temporary burial for up to five years. I am unsure of the procedural difference and I am afraid August did not amplify the discussion.

For now we toured the forest and walked near hundreds of long-tailed macaque monkeys which seemed well behaved and used to being close to humans. Not only is the Monkey Forest sacred in itself for the villagers, but it is their belief that the animal is a fundamental part of their spiritual lives as it guards the temple site against evil spirits. There were attendants who helped feed, distract, and call individual monkeys if they seemed aggressive. One of our group was surprised when one came up behind him and apparently pinched his side. He reacted and swung at the monkey who then got angry and bared his teeth. The attendant distracted him but he did circle and watch our group member until we got out of that section of the forest.

240 We climbed through the paths and several thickly covered bridges while marveling at the age of the park and the temples therein. There was a pleasant, cooling atmosphere of the forest thanks to the 115 species of lush trees. When we finished we drove to the Ubud town center and walked through the city palace. The local royal family lives there so we only viewed the public area.

"Historically, the Balinese village of Ubud can trace its roots to as far back as the 8th century. It is documented on ancient palm leaf scripts that a revered holy man from by the name of Rsi Markaneya embarked on a spiritual journey across and eventually came to the island of Bali to spread the teachings of Hinduism.

The ( Saren Agung) is a historical building complex and is the official residence of the royal family of Ubud. It was on his travels that he received a divine revelation that in Bali he was to bury five precious metals on a mountain slope where the mother temple of Besakih now stands today. Along with a group of followers, Rsi Markaneya was magnetically attracted to a destination located in the central foothills of the island that radiated light and energy. This place was Campuhan in Ubud at a junction in the Wos River and it was here that he felt compelled to build a temple by the name of Pura Gunung Lebah."

We had time to walk through the central market area. Since the 1920s Ubud has grown into a charming small town overflowing with exquisite architectural beauty, arts and craft stalls. Many vendors seem to carry the same products and I wonder how the market can support all of these people. The shopkeepers seemed quite friendly and eager to sell. We did find some shell nut dishes to take home.

"A holiday in Bali always calls for some sort of shopping for souvenirs or memorabilia of the trip, and the best place to make the search would be in the artistic central region of the island, namely Ubud and its Ubud Art Market.

Bali art markets in general are always on itinerary lists especially as the various items sold are typically Balinese, unique and some unavailable elsewhere. In Ubud’s case, most visitors’ favourite leisure includes easy strolls to the heart of the town, made possible by footpaths that virtually pass every aspect of Balinese culture and life. Ubud Art Market is one among the laid- back strolls, reachable from the Wanara Wana Monkey Forest Sanctuary just down south, an approximate kilometer from the market.

‘Shopping’ here is not always about an actual purchase. Viewing the various items on display from one stall to another is a highlight on its own, showing the craftsmanship and the artistry of the Balinese. Admiring all the shops and stalls usually cannot be accomplished in one day. So if you spot an item of your interest, you might come back another day to bargain or settle the deal.

Compared to art markets in Bali’s other main tourism destinations such as , the Ubud Art Market can be considered to feature higher quality items and a larger mixture. Although beach cloths and shirts printer with “Bali” on them, and ikat woven skirts, Balinese paintings, woodcarvings and woven baskets can be found almost everywhere on the island, items ranging from quadruple-colored bohemian skirts of satin, Moroccan-style oil lamps, quilt-stitched batik camisoles and brass Buddha statuettes, are somewhat the staple, typical Ubud Art Market curios."

241 We walked through many shops which had rings but ran into our typical problem. We could easily find rings for Liz but it is always harder to find similar styles in my ring size. But through her persistence, Liz did find some elegantly simple, black coral rings for both of us. These will be our memory of Bali.

We rejoined the group for a short bus ride to Murni's for . “In 1974, Murni opened Ubud's first real restaurant and since then thousands of people have enjoyed her and hospitality.”

Today, Murni's Warung has four open-air levels that step down the steep hillside overlooking the river and it is still one of Ubud's most popular restaurants. We walked through the entrance and then wound down several staircases until we reached the fourth level overlooking the beautiful gardens. Our menu was already set out when we arrived.

After lunch we went to Kartika Chandra Batik Center. We were able to walk through several showrooms, not all dedicated to batik. There were carvings of traditional Balinese deities and folk figures. And, of , rooms filled with batik cloth and garments made of batik.

Our next stop was the village of Mas, internationally famed for its wood carving. Mas Village is strategically located in the center of tourist destination and easily reached from any direction with any vehicles. If it is related to Denpasar City position, then Mas Village location is located about 15 km east direction to the Ubud way. The starting point entrance to Mas Village is Sakah junction with big monumental statue of baby positioning in the middle of road. This baby statue is a symbol and representation of the early life of Balinese in the local Balinese wisdom believes that is close with value, philosophy, religious and dynamism. In according with the Balinese cognitive, the baby is representing the fertility and the early life stage of human before entering the next life cycle includes Brahmacari (Learning phase), Grehasta (married phase), Wana Prasta ( the phase of maturation and stabilization of life spiritual life aspect) and Sanyasin (the phase of meeting the dead and eternal life in other worlds).

We now had free time and Liz went across the street Pedicure Hair & Beauty Bali. She had a pedicure and we then returned to our room until dinner time.

Across the street and a half block away was the Pundi Pundi Restaurant. We just wanted a snack and ordered Bali-Hai beer (not as good as Bintang Beer). We shared appetizers; Vietnamese Cold Spring Roll (Prawn, encased in rice noodle & roll in tender rice paper, served with sweet chili ); Ubud (homemade mixed chicken and vegetable spring roll, served with sauce);

242 (Balinese mini rijstafel with chicken, egg, fish , chicken , ayam and crackers).

Friday, March 04

We tried other, new Balinese breakfast this morning. We have had nasi goring many times before but today we shared (fragrant, steamed yellow rice with tofu, tempe, peanut, potato , , egg and chili fish) and nasi bali (steamed coconut rice, served with grilled chicken, chili , redolent with kefier lime). Both were delicious and absolutely new to us.

When everyone was finished we boarded the bus for our first excursion. This took us through the countryside and up hilly terrain to a point about a mile from the entrance to the Pura . After the drive we took a restroom break where August failed to mention to the group that, as in many countries, one is expected to tip an attendant for use of the facilities. Several people had to come back to the bus to obtain cash for this purpose.

Then we could take advantage of motorcycle operators who would give you a ride up the remaining climb to the temple for a price. Most chose to walk but with a running commentary along the way because August had not mentioned this in his briefing.

"Pura Besakih is a temple complex in the village of Besakih on the slopes of Mount Agung in eastern Bali. It is the most important, the largest and holiest temple of Hindu religion in Bali,[1] and one of a series of Balinese temples. Perched nearly 1000 meters up the side of Gunung Agung, it is an extensive complex of 23 separate but related temples with the largest and most important being Pura Agung. The temple is built on six levels, terraced up the slope. The entrance is an formed by a Candi Bentar (split gateway), and beyond it the Kori Agung is the gateway to the second courtyard.

The precise origins of the temple are not clear but it almost certainly dates from prehistoric times. The stone bases of Pura Penataran Agung and several other temples resemble megalithic stepped pyramids, which date back at least 2000 years. It was certainly used as a Hindu place of worship from 1284 when the first Javanese conquerors settled in Bali. By the 15th century, Besakih had become a state temple of the Gelgel dynasty.

Pura Besakih is a complex made up of twenty-three temples that sit on parallel ridges. It has stepped terraces and flights of stairs which ascend to a number of courtyards and brick gateways that in turn lead up to the main spire or Meru structure, which is called Pura Penataran Agung. All

243 this is aligned along a single axis and designed to lead the spiritual person upward and closer to the mountain which is considered sacred.

The main sanctuary of the complex is the Pura Penataran Agung. The symbolic center of the main sanctuary is the lotus throne or padmasana, which is therefore the ritual focus of the entire complex. It dates to around the seventeenth century.

A series of eruptions of Mount Agung in 1963, which killed approximately 1,700 people also threatened Pura Besakih. The lava flows missed the temple complex by mere meters. The saving of the temple is regarded by the Balinese people as miraculous, and a signal from the gods that they wished to demonstrate their power but not destroy the monument the Balinese faithful had erected."

When we reached the entrance of the temple we were surrounded by vendors trying to hawk postcards, brochures, pashminas, and souvenirs. They vied for our attention as we walked to the steps because they were not allowed on the temple grounds. Once we were inside the campus we discovered people and selling food, which must hold a different category of the vendors outside.

We walked through the grounds and up some of the central steps but I chose not to walk to the top. One of the other men in our group offered to take some photos for me when he reached the top. When we finished everyone walked back to the bus pick-up point. No one wanted to ride back down on the offered motorcycle transport. Time to take a coffee break.

This was a special visit to a coffee plantation to learn about the cultivation process of , also known as 'Civet Coffee', and enjoy a tasting of this unique brew that is often called the world's most expensive coffee. Kopi Luwak is a blend of Arabica, Robusta, Liberica and Excelsa, and is produced in the Indonesian Archipelago. Being the rarest coffee in the world, only 500 to 700 kg are produced annually, selling from $100 to $600 per pound.

"Kopi luwak, or civet coffee, refers to the coffee that includes part-digested coffee cherries eaten and defecated by the Asian palm civet.

Producers of the coffee beans argue that the process may improve coffee through two mechanisms, selection and digestion. Selection occurs if the civets choose to eat cherries. Digestive mechanisms may improve the flavor profile of the coffee beans that have been eaten. The civet eats the cherries for the fleshy pulp, then in the digestive tract, fermentation occurs. The civet's protease enzymes seep into the beans, making shorter peptides and more free amino acids. Passing through a civet's intestines the cherries are then defecated with other fecal matter and collected.

Although kopi luwak is a form of processing rather than a variety of coffee, it has been called one

244 of the most expensive coffees in the world with retail prices reaching €550/US$700 per kilogram, close to the €850/US$1,100 price of Black Ivory coffee [same process but using elephants instead of civet]."

As we entered the grounds of Satria Agrowisata we walked a path that was lined with coffee plants and wound through a small display of civit habitat with one asleep in a hollow log and another in a cage. Further along we passed a shop with all the products on display and then further to a tasting room where we were given samples of several teas, ginseng, and cocoa beverages. Then we could purchase a cup of Kopi Luwak if we chose. We did not although a couple of our group did offer to taste a spoonful of their purchase. Sadly, my palate was unable to recognize the “superb flavor” to match the market value of this coffee. I suspect more than a little of the mystique is the one ups-man-ship of being able to afford the coffee.

From there, we travel upwards to Kintamani, a beautiful panorama area set on the rim of the active Mount Batur volcano which has erupted around 25 times since 1800. Our stop was at Bali Madu Sari - Mountain Restaurant. The buffet was welcome and the food was prepared well but the main feature was the view.

Soup Indonesian mixed rolls Dessert (gado-gado) Tomato Fried potatoes Seasonal fresh fruit Asparagus/Mushroom Vegetable spring roll Fried banana w/honey and vanilla sauce Vegetable/Pumpkin ring Black rice puding Fried chicken in sweet soy Fried w/honey sauce and vanilla sauce Main Course Fried breaded fish in Steamed sweet corn w/ sweet sour sauce coconut Steamed rice stroganoff Fried rice Chicken satay with coconut Hot drink Fried noodles w/vegetables Tuna satay Coffee Cap cay Shrimp crackers

Mount Batur is an active volcano located at the center of two concentric calderas north west of Mount Agung on the island of Bali. At first glance I thought of Mt Saint Helen's until you spot the two distinct caldera. We had clouds that initially blocked a full view but as they cleared we saw the volcano stand out from the rest of the terrain to be unique and the highest point in the area yet still uncapped by snow. It is quite magnificent.

Our last stop of the day was the Tampak Siring Temple; a temple fed by local springs and is seen as a place to come to cleanse the soul. There may be the chance to take part in a traditional purification ceremony in the bathing spot used by Balinese for over a thousand years for good health and prosperity. “The spring water is considered holy, having the power to cure, and is considered connected to the

245 sacred waters of India's River Ganges.” No one discussed how this was possible.

" temple (Pura Tirta Empul) is a Hindu Balinese water temple located near the town of Tampaksiring, Bali. The temple compound consists of a petirtaan or bathing structure, famous for its holy spring water, where Balinese Hindus go to for ritual purification. The temple pond has a spring which gives out fresh water regularly, which Balinese Hindus consider to be holy or amritha. Tirta Empul means Holy Spring in Balinese.

The temple was founded around a large water spring in 962 A.D. during the Warmadewa dynasty (10th-14th centuries). The name of the temple comes from the ground water source named "Tirta Empul". The spring is the source of the Pakerisan river. The temple is divided into three sections: Jaba Pura (front yard), Jaba Tengah (central yard) and Jeroan (inner yard). Jaba Tengah contains 2 pools with 30 showers which are named accordingly: Pengelukatan, Pebersihan and Sudamala dan Pancuran Cetik (poison).

The temple is dedicated to Vishnu, another Hindu god name for the supreme consciousness Narayana. On a hill overlooking the temple, a modern villa was built for President Sukarno's visit in 1954. The villa is currently a rest house for important guests."

August had offered us the opportunity to join in the ritual cleansing of the waters. Several of our group joined in and went to the flowing spigots of either of the two pools set for this purification. As we walked we learned the site is also location of one of the 6 presidential in Indonesia. The Palace was built between 1957-1960 at the initiation of President Soekarno. The buildings of the complex are scattered around on an area covering 19 hectare. The main palace building are built on a higher ground overlooking the temple.

Now back at our hotel, we needed to change money. Then we went to Coco's for some modeling clay to add to the pencils we are giving to the children at school tomorrow. Once accomplished we returned to our hotel and walked the grounds until we were ready for dinner.

We were not sure what we wanted or which restaurant we wanted to try so we walked up and down the street to read the menus. Siam Sally Restaurant seemed our best choice for dinner: Golden Dumplings Chicken (Golden fried dumplings stuffed with chicken and sweet ); Crisp Spring Rolls (filled with minced prawn, pork and mushroom, served with sweet chili dipping sauce); Crispy Caramelized Mushrooms (with chips, crisp Thai and kaffir leaves); Basil Beef (seared tenderloin beef slices with peppers, mild chilies & Asian basil).

246 The Crispy Caramelized Mushrooms were spectacular and Liz said she wanted to see if she could find a recipe. We will look when we get back home.

Saturday, March 05

Our route took us back toward Mount Batur but not as far or as high. We enjoyed the transition from urban to rural countryside and, at one point, our bus needed to stop as a procession was moving from the farm area to a village center in celebration of Galungan. Once cleared we also went to the village to visit a local school.

We were greeted by a local official/school teacher/tour guide who welcomed us to his school and introduced us to his students. My impression was that there would not have been class because of the holiday but the children were present because we were visitors. We walked through the classrooms as the children recited lessons and showed us their projects. I imagine they all ran home as soon as we left the compound.

From here we drove to a “family compound” where August suggested we would be able to see how a Balinese house was built. As we entered through the gate we came across a stand which reminded me of a canopy bed with the canopy being more substantial and able to be a storage cabinet for rice. At the lower level a woman was waiting for us to show how Canang Sari (flower offerings) were made.

Women spend large parts of their day in the construction of these offerings, then dispersing them around their compounds. A figure of making 180 per day was mentioned. Everywhere you go you will find these small offerings laying around on sidewalks, roads, in front of shops, restaurants and houses. It’s sometimes actually rather difficult just to walk without accidentally stepping on them! But these little baskets of flowers and incense sticks are also what make Bali so wonderfully unique and fragrant.

These little tributes are perched all over the city and could be as simple as a small and fragrant frangipani adorning each and every step leading into a housing compound. Or more elaborate to guard the house’s doorway and appease the gods represented by statues throughout the house.

After teaching some of us how to make the Canang Sari the woman turned us back to our host who then further described this compound. This held multiple and now houses 49 people. There was a very simple /cook house near the front but later we found and elaborate kitchen preparing lunch four our dining room experience.

247 There was a residence temple and we learned that individual houses, neighborhoods, villages, towns, and counties have multiple temples. What I thought was a household temple was actually a bed room with two open walls. Others were found throughout the complex. When we finished walking through the compound we climbed into small mini-vans and drove out to the local rice paddies to experience the agricultural lifestyle. Here we were met by a man and a woman standing near a demonstration rice paddies where we could sit on a simple plow pulled by two oxen through the thick mud. Many of our group took their turn at the reins.

Then we walked to a rice paddy 20 feet higher than the one that was being plowed. Here our group was able to take rice stalks and plant them in rows as tradition dictates. Liz commented that we should come back in three months to harvest the rice. A lovely idea but I don't think we will be able to make it back by then.

We returned to the compound and were directed to a pavilion set up for our lunch. An orchestra was set in front and had barely begun to play when the skies opened up and rain began to pour. The orchestra relocated to a pavilion across the grass and was able to protect their instruments from the weather. Two young ladies in Balinese costume then danced traditional folk dances for us. They were very nimble and I wonder how they are able to twist their hands and fingers as they do.

Our lunch was served family style as platters were passed around. We enjoyed Babi guling (roasted ); Betutu (steamed chicken); Bubur Sum-Sum (rice w/ sauce); Bubur Injun (black rice pudding); black sticky rice w/; Bantal (sticky rice, coconut, sugar and fruit); Iga Babi (Balinese ); (mixed vegetables); Nasi Bali (rice with various dishes);

248 Sate Babi (pork satay); (spiced meat on a stick); Soto Babi (pork soto); and Sayur Urab (mixed salad).

Leaving the compound we began our return to Ubud but after driving less than a mile our bus was halted to allow villagers to return to their local temple after marching from the next village. This would be a common occurrence for the next two days. While we waited for the road to clear August told us that tomorrow he would be participating in his village ceremony which further explained why tomorrow would be “a day at leisure to enjoy Ubud's boutique shops, spas and art galleries.” Our guide would be having the day off, so we would be on our own.

Sunday, March 06

Today is a “day at leisure” but we did not wish to spend a full day “to enjoy Ubud's boutique shops, spas and art galleries”. Instead we had looked at spending most of the day at the Taro Elephant Park.

“The Elephant Safari Park was officially opened by the Minister of Tourism in the year 2000 after three years of development. An official member of the World Zoo Association, the Park meets International Standards for animal care and is set in more than 3.5 hectares of exotic eco tourism landscaped botanical gardens, surrounded by national forest. Acclaimed as the World's Best Elephant Park, facilities include a full Reception and Information Center, a comprehensive Museum, with a large collection of elephant memorabilia and the only Mammoth Skeleton in South East Asia. A visit to the Elephant Safari Park is a must for any visitor to Bali. Get up close and personal with these incredible animals in a beautiful tropical park setting. Elephants can be seen immersing themselves in the park lake, in between riding, painting or other activities. Hand feed them, touch them, take photos with them, then learn more about the elephants ancestry and diversity at the Park's historical and graphic displays.

A 200-seat restaurant over looking the lake, ideal for large groups or wedding, features an international menu, and the park Gift Shop offers an extensive range of elephant-theme products, including elephant paintings, elephant ivory, mammoth ivory, carvings, clothing, souvenirs and jewelry.”

When we reported to the front desk of the hotel we were met by the driver of a 12 passenger bus who would provide our transportation for the morning. Ten of us from World Spree had signed up for this excursion and the driver would also go to another local hotel to add two Australian women for the adventure. Once collected we drove to the entrance where we received a short briefing before we walked out toward a lagoon.

When we arrived we learned the elephants were washed in the pond twice a day, more if it is a

249 particularly hot day. As we walked the trail we could see that the park also had lovely lodges for rent and each lodge had elephant stands where one could step out on your patio to then climb on to the howdah for your ride. Then we were directed toward a platform we would climb to meet “our” elephant for the morning. Mahoot Udin and Roxie the elephant then took us for a tour of the park.

Udin informed us that elephants are not native to Bali. He and Roxie are originally from , which has a reputation for poaching elephants for their tusks. He was afraid for Roxie's life and they came here almost 17 years ago. That coincides with the park opening in 2000. He speaks of Roxie as his “first wife” and then smiles and chuckles that he and his second wife are raising three children.

We walked the paths through the 8 acre park, stopping briefly at the food caches along the way for Roxie. Then we entered the pond as Roxie showed off walking on the bottom and using her trunk as a snorkel. We took pictures as did the park staff. Later we purchased two t-shirts with photos of Udin, Roxie, Liz and me coming out of the water.

Then we posed with several elephants who wrapped their trunks around us; crowned us both with a flower wreath, and gave us kisses. We got the giggles and truly enjoyed ourselves on this, the best elephant encounter we have ever had. We walked over to a platform to watch the elephant show while the staff processed our photo t- shirts. It was a memorable morning.

We had approximately forty five minutes between the end of the performance in the central arena and our lunch reservation. Liz was able to look through the shops and did enjoy seeing the fabrics, crafts, and jewelry.

The lunch was also a treat. The menu was typical Balinese fare but we also enjoyed a special treat of five delicious salads. We sampled all of them as well as a couple of beef dishes. Then, after lunch, we had a few minutes to go through the small museum with 1,000 exhibits and a 15,000 year old Mammoth Skeleton from the Wisconsin glacial era.

Our driver then reversed his route, dropping off the two Australian ladies at their hotel and then the rest of us returned to the Alaya Ubud Hotel. We went to our room and relaxed for a few minutes than returned to the lobby and asked for a shuttle to the downtown area.

We shopped at the market again and walked through the winding streets for a couple of hours and then took a taxi back to our hotel. It was time to recovery some of the laundry we had sent out. Then we packed up our luggage as we would be leaving Ubud early in the morning.

250 Monday, March 07

Luggage was set outside our rooms this morning as we would be leaving Ubud for today. Once the bus was loaded we set out for a visit to Goa Lawah, a cliff-side cave inhabited by hordes of bats and one of Bali's most important temples. This would be a repeat for Liz and me as we had been here in February, 2013 while on a cruise around Australia and New Zealand.

"Goa Lawah is considered holy. A temple with shrines protects the entrance. The cave is said to extend all the way back to Besakih, and may continue to an underground river that comes up, it is said, at Pura Goa (Cave temple) within the Besakih complex - a temple associated with the mythological naga or serpent Basuki which is also honored at , where a snake is supposed to live, feeding on bats.

Further explanation, Pura Goa Lawah (the Bat Cave Temple) is one of the island's nine special Sad Kahyangan Temples, and as such it is the designated holy place to honor the God Maheswara who resides in this section of the island. Religious processions visit the temple every day, and it is a particular focus for religious rites associated with death. Goa Lawah Temple located along the coast of southeastern Bali just west of Candidasa. The center of the temple is built around a cave filled with thousands of bat that make the roof of the cave their homes. Its entrances are guarded by a temple believed to be found by a sage nine centuries ago.

The Goa Lawah temple is situated on a slight embankment and the name is derived from the thousands bats that are living at the ceiling and walls of the cave. The cave is also said to lead all the way to Pura Goa in Besakih, some 30 km away, but nobody in recent times has volunteered to confirm this since the fruit bats provide sustenance for the legendary giant snake, Naga Basuki, which is also believed to live in the cave. This ancient reptile is believed to be the caretaker of the earth's equilibrium, a belief which stems from pre-Hindu animism."

As we drove up to the temple we were greeted by thirty or more vendors waiting for us to get off the bus and attempting to sell us postcards, drawings, batik cloth, wooden boxes, carvings, and masks. Here too this was like Vietnam but without the catch–phrase “free for you GI.” Here they would offer bamboo necklaces and say “free for you.” Then they would offer other goods for a dollar but if you stopped to take them up on the offer the low price would disappear. They do like to barter and just saying “no thank you” only brought out questions of “how much do you want to pay?” A few people did buy some of their wares and the merchants concentrated on them as we walked inside the temple.

251 The custom does not allow the wearing of slacks by the women or shorts by the men to enter the grounds so they offer sarongs to be tied around the waist of everyone who enters. As we all were being so adorned we could take pictures of the process. Then we walked up to the statues, tables with offerings shielded with umbrellas, and fountains. One was not allowed to climb the steps to the cave but the English on the sign was ignored by a few English speakers of our tour. These people only walked up to the top step and didn't try to enter and no complaint seemed to be made. In the corner of one section of the outer cave was a troop of about 100 bats in a cluster hanging from the wall. As we left the grounds we returned our borrowed sarongs to the temple volunteers to hand out to the next busload anxiously attempting to see. Then we passed back through the gauntlet of vendors to board our bus.

We then drove to the . As we arrived there were many people in an adjacent field celebrating the holiday. There was music, chanting and possibly speeches as we threaded our way into the palace grounds. There were a few vendors selling their wares and accompanying us as we walked.

"The Klungkung Palace, officially Puri Agung Semarapura, is a historical building complex situated in Semarapura, the capital of the (kabupaten) on Bali, Indonesia. The palace (puri) was erected at the end of the 17th century, but largely destroyed during the Dutch colonial conquest in 1908. Today the basic remains of the palace are the court of justice, the Kertha Gosa Pavilion, and the main gate that bears the date Saka 1622 (AD 1700). Within the old palace compound is also a floating pavilion, the Bale Kembang. The descendants of the that once ruled Klungkung today live in Puri Agung, a residence to the west of the old palace, which was built after 1929.

Together with the other Balinese rajas, Putra II signed a contract with the Dutch colonial authorities in 1843, but the varying interpretations of the contract soon caused friction. This was the background to the three Dutch military expeditions in 1846, 1848 and 1849. The last of these expeditions invaded Klungkung territory. The enterprising queen Dewa Agung Istri Kanya fought the Dutch to a standstill, and this was followed by a general reconciliation between the Balinese rajas and the Dutch authorities.[8] In the following decades the kingdom was led by a grandson of Dewa Agung Sakti, Dewa Agung Putra III (r. 1851-1903). He was an activist leader who intervened in the affairs of the other south Balinese kingdoms, which were still only nominally attached to the Dutch East Indies. In 1885 he imprisoned the of Gianyar, and in 1891 he was heavily responsible for the destruction of the Mengwi kingdom. After 1900 Dutch presence made itself increasingly felt in south Bali. In this situation Dewa Agung Putra III died and was succeeded by his son Dewa Agung Jambe II (r. 1903-1908). He took a defiant attitude against the

252 encroaching colonialism.

An incident, namely the alleged plundering of the stranded ship Sri Kumala in 1904, led to a renewed Dutch military foray in 1906. The colonial troops captured Badung after a suicidal attack on the invaders, a so-called ("finishing"). Two years later, in a similar manner, an incident in nearby Gelgel triggered a punitive colonial expedition to Klungkung (see Dutch intervention in Bali (1908)). The local Balinese elite chose to make a last stand against the Dutch. Dewa Agung Jambe II, the members of his dynasty and their retainers sallied forth from the palace and engaged in a puputan. The fight, which took place on 18 April 1908, proceeded until the death of the last of the combatants, which included women and children.

After the puputan, the surviving members of the royal family were exiled, and the palace was largely razed to the ground. In 1929 the family was allowed to return, and settled in the newly built Puri Agung. Today, the history of Klungkung, and the puputan, are commemorated in a museum close to the remains of the palace. To the north of the palace a monument has been erected to the memory of the puputan incident."

Crossing over to the palace we entered a portion which has been turned into a museum. We were able to view art and photo depictions of life in the palace. Most of these seemed straight forward and easy to understand how life had been in Bali. What caught my attention the most was a painting which showed a native army trying to ward off the onslaught of a “modern” Dutch force... in 1908! That was a shock in that it was a twentieth century event and the view was that of using bows and arrows to fight a force with machine gun and cannon.

Next was the Kerta Gosa Pavilion (Hall of Justice), erected in the north-eastern corner of the palace compound. It typified the Klungkung style of architecture and painting. Because the Kerta Gosa was the court of the high king of Bali, cases on the island which could not be resolved were transferred to this site. Three Brahmana priests presided over the court. The convicts were able to view the ceiling which depicted different punishments in the afterlife, the results of karma, while they were awaiting sentencing.

Time for lunch at the Mahagiri Panoramic Restaurant. Mahagiri is located in Village which was conveniently well situated on our route to Nusa Dua. Its location allows a spectacular panorama of Mount Agung, and the surrounding rice terraces. The layout has steps and platforms with seating to maximize the view but this also requires people to be cautious of the footing to get to a table. The buffet itself was typical Balinese but not spectacular. The real treat was the scenery.

253 After lunch we continued our drive to our new location, Nusa Dua. We passed through a series of checkpoints which gave the appearance of multiple hotel locations within a gated community. All seemed quite elegant as we drove by entrances and we cleared the last checkpoint when we entered our specific hotel. Meliá Bali - The Garden Villas, "Located on the shores of Nusa Dua, Bali's prestigious resort enclave, this beachfront resort is a unique sanctuary of exotic beauty and comfort for those who seek a dream vacation. The entire property occupies 10.7 hectare of lush tropical gardens with an enormous lagoon swimming pool winding throughout the grounds. The contemporary tropical architecture, bold décor and spacious gardens express the essence of Bali."

The hotel has 490 rooms and suites in several buildings and includes 50 private bungalows with their own lagoon access suites. Their are five restaurants and a large swimming pool as well as ocean front beaches for relaxation. We were give our room keys and followed by bellmen who would deliver our luggage within minutes of arriving at our rooms. Then we began seeing notices that the upcoming holiday would effect our stay in an unusual way.

The celebration preparations we had been witnessing for the past few days were leading up to the Balinese holiday, Nyepi.

“Nyepi is a Balinese "Day of Silence" that is commemorated every Isakawarsa (Saka New Year) according to the Balinese calendar (March 9 this year). It is a Hindu celebration mainly celebrated in Bali, Indonesia. Nyepi, a public holiday in Indonesia, is a day of silence, fasting and meditation for the Balinese. The day following Nyepi is also celebrated as New Year's Day. On this day, the youth of Bali practice the ceremony of Omed-omedan or 'The Kissing Ritual' to celebrate the new year. The same day celebrated in India as ugadi.

Observed from 6 am. until 6 am. the next morning, Nyepi is a day reserved for self-reflection, and as such, anything that might interfere with that purpose is restricted. The main restrictions are no lighting fires (and lights must be kept low); no working; no entertainment or pleasure; no traveling; and, for some, no talking or eating at all. The effect of these prohibitions is that Bali's usually bustling streets and roads are empty, there is little or no noise from TVs and radios, and few signs of activity are seen even inside homes. The only people to be seen outdoors are the Pecalang, traditional security men who patrol the streets to ensure the prohibitions are being followed.

Although Nyepi is primarily a Hindu holiday, non-Hindu residents and tourists are not exempt from the restrictions. Although they are free to do as they wish inside their hotels, no one is allowed onto the beaches or streets, and the only airport in Bali remains closed for the entire day. The only exceptions granted are for emergency vehicles responding to life-threatening conditions and women about to give birth."

254 There were signs throughout the hotel alerting us to the restrictions we would face. August was not helpful in that he suggested that we might wish to purchase snack items for our rooms as we would not be able to go outside during this time. This made it seem that the hotel dining rooms would be closed but this was not the case. Additionally, we would be able to go out onto the grounds of the hotel except for the beach. The international airport would also be closed for the day... this is a serious observance.

We scouted out the grounds of the hotel as we would have a couple hours before we would assemble and drive to our seafood dinner at Jimbaran Beach. This would be at Menega Cafe Bali, a favorite of the locals. When we arrived at the area we noted that there were at least a half dozen seafood restaurants in a line and all catered to people wishing to watch the sunset over the sea as they dined.

We reached our designated table and picked out our seats and then everyone waded into the surf while taking pictures of the setting sun or back toward the beach fronted restaurant. Once seated, dishes were served family style and we enjoyed a BBQ Seafood menu.

Live Lobster Squid Yellow Crazy Fish Jumbo Prawn Shell Grouper King Prawn Barracuda Red Snapper Crab Live Grouper White Snapper King Fish

This was a relaxing setting and the beachfront was covered with tables from several restaurants. You could hear soft music from inside the restaurant but the best music was the splash of the light surf a few meters from our table.

Tuesday, March 08

The breakfast buffet was huge! Easily the size of a soccer field, there were offerings of Balinese, oriental, and western dishes. Liz and I went through the table settings to determine which dishes we would like to try. At the oriental station we found a hot water tray with six round baskets available to be filled with greens, noodles, and savory items. Then you placed your basket in the water for a couple of minutes and then drained your choices into a bowl and added other items and to taste. The resulting noodle bowl was delicious and we were hooked. We tried this as one of our dishes at each breakfast after that.

255 Returning to the room to clean up, we were ready to take the hotel shuttle to the nearby Handy's Plaza as recommended by August. However, at the desk we learned that our hotel did not offer a shuttle service nor were any local tours offered today. We went to the taxi stand and took a cab to the shopping area.

"Hardy’s Nusa Dua Plaza is a great source for groceries if you happen to be staying in a villa resort with a complete kitchenette facility. Inside is a supermarket, as well as a clothing store and sale outlets offering from electronics to daily household items. Part of an island-wide network of supermarkets, Hardy’s Nusa Dua Plaza is located right outside the main entrance gates of the Nusa Dua BTDC complex. Marketed at local residents, you can be sure of very reasonable prices here. The first floor houses a food corner of Indonesian dishes, kids’ fun zone, and the supermarket. The second floor comprises stationery, toys, and a fashion department store."

We did shop for some souvenirs and even a couple cans of tonic and a bag of nuts. This trip was more of a distraction than a successful excursion to search for great crafts or even great bargains. We did not go back to our hotel empty handed but we had not found any great treasures.

Back at the hotel we took advantage of the fact that the beach would only be open today. We put on our surf mocs and walked out to the deeper water to swim for a half hour. Then we came back to rinse off and go into the large pool complex. We then tried to relax in the pool chairs for a while. Neither Liz nor I like to just sit in the sun for too long so we went back into the water to cool off. Then Liz noticed that the culinary staff was offering a vegetable and fruit carving class so Liz and five others sat down for the class.

We had lunch at the Sateria Beachside Restaurant. The service was good and the food was nicely prepared and served hot. The main benefit was the fact that the tables and shade umbrellas are right over the beach and only a few feet from the ocean.

Wednesday, March 09

Yesterday we noticed that the hotel staff had made personalized drawings in the sand in the courtyards of the hotel buildings. We asked when the staff would be making these drawings so we might observe. They then asked if we would like to have a personalized drawing of our own and we said yes. The desk clerk then took down our request. After breakfast we returned to our building as the staff was raking out the sand and preparing to add new drawings. We watched as they added our requested drawing.

We went to the pool where the staff was conducting water aerobics, with reduced amplification. Subconsciously we avoided giggling or any other loud exclamation but the exercise was welcome. Then we walked down the row of lagoon access suites to appreciate their swimming opportunity.

256 The official policy included a notice that there would be no cable television. In reality the cable remained connected. We presume the official requirement was stated but not really enforced. There were many odd programs.

Some Law & Order ; Minute To Win It , (in-studio contestants play a family-friendly competition in which they try to complete 10 deceptively simple games for $1 million). It is hosted by Guy Fieri (first episode in March 2010); and Exit (based on a Japanese show, four pairs of contestants try to escape from a series of four mind-bending rooms, each more challenging than the previous one. Among the obstacles the contestants face are booby traps, receding floors, collapsing walls and bottomless sand pits. The team that finds its way out of the four rooms then must beat the clock in solving rapid-fire brain teasers and puzzles in order to truly exit and win the $10,000 prize. Actor Curt Doussett serves as host.

Later the hotel delivered Arak Beras Ketan Cap PURA, Bali Traditional Spirit (Rice wine brandy) and some chocolates to our room. We stayed inside an watched television... after learning that Amazon Prime does not broadcast outside of the United States. There went my hope of getting around Nyepi.

Thursday, March 10

The day would be open to again “enjoy Nusa Dua's relaxed ambiance before a memorable final night in Bali.” We would not see August or have any time for any excursions until late afternoon when we would be met for our last evening in Bali. In the late afternoon, we were picked up by vintage collector's edition “open top Volkswagen's for a special evening and travel to the stunning , one of six key temples believed to be Bali's spiritual pillars.”

I don't know why we were picked up by a convoy of ten, colorful Volkswagen convertibles which then drove south to the coast to the temple. The timing of the visit was to coincide with sunset at the temple followed by a traditional monkey dance which tells stories from the Ramayana.

“Uluwatu Temple (Indonesian: Pura (Luhur) Uluwatu) is a Balinese sea temple (pura segara) in Uluwatu (Kuta South, Badung). The temple is regarded as one of the sad kahyangan and is dedicated to Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa in his manifestation as Rudra.

The temple is built at the edge of a 70 meter high cliff or rock projecting into the sea. Though a small temple was claimed to have existed earlier, the structure was significantly expanded by a Javanese sage, Empu Kuturan in the 11th Century.

The temple is inhabited by monkeys, who are notorious for snatching visitors' belongings. They can usually be persuaded into trading the items for fruit, although this only encourages them to steal more.”

We arrived in time to walk to the cliff edge and view the temple in the distance. We were warned to be observant and watch out for the monkeys. Supposedly the monkeys are trained by the keepers to pick pockets but I do not know that for sure. I did see monkeys steal shoes and while we were walking along the sea wall we watched the forest next to the path but failed to see a monkey on top of the wall behind us as he jumped from a pillar and swung down and grabbed the glasses of one of our group. The keepers distracted the monkey as he went into the forest and they recovered her glasses. We all paid

257 more attention to them after that.

After walking toward the temple we took seats at the pavilion where we would observe the Kecak dance.

"A Kecak performance is very simple. The men's chorus chants the words Cak ke-cak ke-cak ke-cak ke-cak ke-cak, in rhythm, over and over again, For this reason they are called the Kecak or Cak dance. The Kecak dances consist of about fifty men wearing only a loin-cloth, the upper part of their bodies left bare. They form rows of circles, in the middle of which is a coconut oil lamp. The Kecak dance is performed for dance- dramas and the story

258 presented is take from the Ramayana epic.

In essence it is the story of a woman who is stolen from her husband (a prince) by a demon. The narrative follows the challenges and tasks the young prince and his brother must overcome to rescue her.

As the sun sets during the performance, and the sky darkens, the story builds to a climax – a moment when a monkey king sets fire to a castle. With the orange flames and embers in the middle of the stage, it’s a dramatic moment."

We re-boarded our Volkswagen convertible convoy and now that it was dark I could see the inside was quite striped and illuminated with tubes with colored LED lights. It offered an odd glow as we drove back to the center of town for dinner. Once we arrived August moved down the line to let us know that the drivers expected remuneration from us, it was not part of our pre-paid dinner excursion. I had enough cash to give to the driver but August's failure to brief us ahead of time left a few of our group short of change.

We had been driven to our farewell dinner at Bali's only authentic, multi- winning Balinese restaurant, Bali, Restaurant & Cooking School. It is renowned for their quality, authenticity, presentation and ambiance in a traditional crafted village setting. The foundation in the style of their cooking was found after two decades of investigating and documenting Balinese . We were going to sample the famous . Liz and I were introduced to this appetizer option in Amsterdam in 1982 and delight in the varied options whenever we can. This was a perfect end of our trip to Bali.

Rijsttafel

Soup Sapi, Pangsit Goreng (Beef Sambal Goreng Udang (Prawn in Chili & Consomme, Fried ) Candlenut Gravy) Gado - Gado (Steamed Vegetables in Peanut Ayam Betutu (Balinese Roast Chicken) Sauce) Sate Ayam (Chicken Satay in ) Rendang (Beef Cooked with Coconut) Arem - Arem (Steamed Rice with Beef) (Fried Rice with Chicken, Prawn and Vegetables) Terong (Eggplant & Chili) Nasi Kuning (Yellow rice) Campur (Vegetable Pickle) Black Rice Pudding with Coconut Milk Pepes Ikan Pedas (Spicy Roasted Fish In Bikang (Traditional Rice Cake) Banana Leaf)

Friday, March 11

We checked out at noon, and the hotel had already picked up our luggage. When we went downstairs at 11:30 and August was in the lobby. Our group had tried to find the tip guidance that August mentioned for the first time the night before but no one could. We all reread the written guidance we had from World Spree two weeks ago. Too late for a surprise recommendation.

There were five couples going to the airport on this run. The busboy had gone home for his father's funeral and we gave his tip to the driver. Everything went smoothly at the airport and we checked in and made our way to The Wave Lounge. Then we were off to gate 3 which later changed to gate 1.

259 Arrived in Hong Kong at 2100. We worked our way to the taxi line and told the dispatcher we wanted to go to the Marco Polo... there are three so we dug out our paper for the address. It was a thirty minute ride for $HK 220.00 ($28.39).

Saturday, March 12

The hotel served a very nice breakfast buffet, both Chinese and Western. The service for coffee orders was too slow and coffee was not served hot. Later I would experiment and order tea but that too came cold.

After breakfast we walked the block to Victoria Harbor to scout out the site for the evening light show. We plan to take advantage of that tonight. I must have looked very scruffy or like a western tourist because in the block to the harbor and back I was approached by a half dozen pitchmen trying to sell me a new suit.

After walking through the harbor district we walked back north to Kowloon Park. We were delightfully distracted by a local flower and produce market so we diverted through it to look around. After checking out the area we passed by a restaurant named Ned Kelly's Last Stand and we thought we would check it out.

Ned Kelly was an Australian outlaw (folk hero to some) who was hanged in 1880 when he was 25 years old, making this Aussie saloon famous since 1972 for Dixieland jazz much older than its namesake. Its house band, playing nightly from 9:30 pm, brings in an appreciative mostly middle-aged international crowd. Because it also serves Australian bar food, from cottage pie (minced beef, , vegetables, and mashed potatoes) to fish and chips, you can also stop by for a . It's a rumble-tumble kind of place, not unlike what you'd find in the Outback, and with the band on a raised stage, the audience has a good view no matter which wooden table they've staked out.

It was a nice lunch but the place seemed more likely to cater to senior Australian expats and I wondered about its popularity in the area. Maybe the Dixieland Jazz pulls them in, it would appeal to me too.

When we finished we walked back up the street to see more of Kowloon Park and then walked back toward the harbor to check out the shopping opportunities. First we went to T Galleria and walked through but were not impressed. Then we went to Silvercord and that seemed to have a bit more character, the food courts were impressive and interesting. Finally we found the real wow factor when we walked into Harbour City mall. At the time we were north of the Marco Polo and did not realize that

260 the mall extended below our hotel too.

Spread over 2 million square feet of prime real estate, Harbour City is the largest and most diverse shopping mall in Hong Kong. Harbour City is located in the heart of Hong Kong alongside the beautiful and offers a wide range of services including shopping, dining, entertainment and sightseeing. Harbour City has established itself as Hong Kong's marquee mall and a major attraction.

A one-stop shopping paradise with over 450 shops, 50 food & beverage outlets, two cinemas, three hotels, 10 office buildings, two serviced apartments and a luxurious private club all under one roof. With the “Star” Ferry pier (named one of the “50 Places of a Lifetime” by the National Geographic Traveler in 1999), its home to cruise liner berths, maritime history and fabulous harbor view – all at its doorstep. It is easy to see where the mall drew the inspiration for its name.

Harbour City is made up of five sections and offers eight categories of retail outlets. The five sections that complete Harbour City include Gateway Arcade , Ocean Centre , Ocean Terminal , Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel Arcade and Star Annex . Each offers a huge range of products and services including: Jewelry and Watches, Beauty, AV/Electrical Appliances, International Labels for Fashion & Leather Goods, Lifestyle, Casual Wear/Sport, Kid’s Paradise and Food & Beverages Outlets. There is literally something for everyone, regardless of age group or cultural/economical background.

It was fun to walk through the various levels and scout out the types of shops and markets. We will save further exploration for the next time we are in Hong Kong. For now we needed to got back to our hotel and get ready for the show in Victoria Harbor.

“If you thought Victoria Harbor was a dazzling cityscape on its own, hang around for A Symphony of Lights — the nightly multimedia show involving more than 40 buildings on both sides of the harbor.

Named the 'World's Largest Permanent Light and Sound Show' by Guinness World Records, colored lights, laser beams and searchlights perform in an unforgettable all-round spectacle synchronized to music and narration that celebrates the energy. spirit and diversity of Hong Kong. There are five main themes: Awakening , Energy , Heritage , Partnership , and the finale, Celebration . The show is free for public enjoyment and no admission ticket is required.

You can listen to the show's music and narration live nightly at the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront outside the Hong Kong Cultural Center, and the promenade outside the Golden Bauhinia Square in Wan Chai. Live narration is available in three languages: English on Mondays. Wednesdays and Fridays: Mandarin on Tuesdays. Thursdays and Saturdays; and on Sundays.”

261 Sunday, March 13

We had signed up for an overview of Hong Kong with Grey Line Tours through the hotel concierge. Deluxe w/Lunch seemed perfect for an introduction. We met our tour guide at the front desk at 10:20 and then we drove to a central location where five other passengers joined our bus.

Our first stop was at the Man Mo Temple. This small temple is now surrounded by high rise apartments and office buildings and it's footprint seems small on the center of it's neighborhood.

“Man Mo Temple or Man Mo Miu is a Cantonese transliteration of Wen Wu temple, a temple for the worship of the civil or literature god Man Tai and the martial god Mo Tai. The two gods were popularly patronized by scholars and students seeking progress in their study or ranking in the civil examinations in the Ming and Qing dynasties. There are several Man Mo Temples in Hong Kong, the best known of which is the temple in Sheung Wan.

It was built in 1847. It is part of a complex that comprises three adjacent blocks namely Man Mo Temple, Lit Shing Temple and Kung So. The Man Mo Temple, the main building of the complex, is dedicated to the civil god Man Cheong and the martial god Kwan Tai. Lit Shing Kung is for the worship of all heavenly gods. Kung So, to its west, was an assembly hall where community affairs and disputes were settled. In 1908, the Temple was officially entrusted to Tung Wah Board of Directors. The temple has since been managed by the Tung Wah Group of Hospitals. It was graded as a Grade I historic building in 1993 and it is now a declared monument.”

Our guide told us of the history of the temple and described the interior. "The images of the two gods are enshrined inside the temple. You'll find Man dressed in a green robe, holding a writing brush in his hand. Kwan Yu, dressed in red, totes a long sword. Statues of other Chinese gods are found throughout the temple, particularly ones that are important to those who are part of the Buddhist and Taoist communities.

During the 1900s, it is said that locals came here to solve disputes that could not be solved by British law. The process of finding an equitable solution involved the legal system of the Qing Dynasty, which stated that both plaintiff and defendant should make a promise in the temple and write it - along with a curse or punishment - on a piece of yellow paper. They then killed a chicken, chopped off its head, let its blood drip onto the paper, and burned the paper. It was believed that because the promise was made before the gods, if the individual broke the promise they would suffer the indicated punishment. Many

262 Chinese preferred this justice system to the British system.

Devotees burn huge bell-shaped coils of incense that hang from the temple's ceiling in hopes of attracting the attention of the gods. Some also believe the incense is food for the 'spirits' that have gone before."

There are many fortune-teller stalls near the temple. Both locals and visitors stop by to check out their chances for good luck in the future. In this Hong Kong version of fortune telling, these clairvoyants shake a bamboo tube that contains "fortune sticks". There's a number on each stick that corresponds to a "fortune", and the one that falls out first will determine your destiny.

We then wound our way through narrow streets to locate the entrance to the Victoria . Crowded as the city is, there is no real parking area at the entrance and there was a minor traffic scuffle which took several policemen to correct. This involved our bus driver backing up and circling the block one more time.

"The Peak Tramway is a funicular railway in Hong Kong, which carries both tourists and residents to the upper levels of Hong Kong Island. Running from Garden Road Admiralty to via the Mid- Levels, it provides the most direct route and offers good views over the harbor and skyscrapers of Hong Kong.

The Peak Tram's route from Central district to Victoria Peak covers a distance of about 1.4 kilometers (0.87 mi) and an elevation of just under 400 meters (1,312 ft). The line has two pronounced curves, one to the left immediately after leaving the lower terminus, and the other to the right in the upper half of the ascent. The gradient also varies considerably throughout the ascent. It is a single track route and a passing loop, with two trams.

The lower terminus station, Garden Road, is located on Garden Road near St. John's Cathedral. The original station was incorporated into St. John's Building, an office tower, with the tram terminus at the ground level. The station comprises a single track, with platforms on both sides. One platform is used for boarding, the other for exiting the tram.

The upper terminus, The Peak is located below the shopping and leisure complex at Victoria Gap, some 150 meters below the summit of Victoria Peak. The station has the same arrangement of boarding and alighting platforms as the lower terminus."

We had the opportunity to step outside on the viewing platform but today we had no view. The fog was too heavy to see more than a few feet over the railings..Still, we could look down at the entrance of

263 another part of the shopping complex and parking garage some five stories below. Also, you may express your love on a wishing card hanging on a giant heart at the Sky Terrace.

Re-boarding our bus, we set out for the Aberdeen Typhoon Shelter. The Aberdeen Typhoon Shelters of Hong Kong are Aberdeen West Typhoon Shelter and Aberdeen South Typhoon Shelter. Both typhoon shelters are located in Southern District, between the southern part of Hong Kong Island and the island Ap Lei Chau. They are roughly separated by the Ap Lei Chau Bridge. The Aberdeen floating village is located within the shelters. The harbor contains approximately 600 junks, which house an estimated 6,000 people.

Part of the enjoyment of the tour was to board a sampan and motor about the harbor. We could imagine ancient sampans under sail as we glided by the huge yacht owned by native Jackie Chan. He did not come out and wave at us but still... Then we saw fishing boats, rust buckets, and deteriorating dry docks, a full gamut of a working harbor. Then after our tour we were dropped off for lunch at a famous Hong Kong landmark, a floating Dim Sum Restaurant.

“Jumbo Floating Kingdom (Treasure Kingdom) consists of the Jumbo Floating Restaurant and the adjacent Tai Pak Floating Restaurant, renowned tourist attractions in Aberdeen South Typhoon Shelter, within Hong Kong's Aberdeen Barbour. Over 30 million visitors have visited Jumbo

264 Kingdom, including Queen Elizabeth II, John Wayne, Chad Garvin, David Bowie, Tom Cruise, Gwyneth Paltrow, Chow Yun Fat, Stephen Chow and Gong Li.

Floating restaurants appeared in the typhoon shelter shortly after World War II. The Jumbo Kingdom was established in October 1976 by Dr. Stanley Ho after four years and over HK$30 million were spent to design and build it. It was originally decorated in the style of an ancient Chinese imperial palace.

The Jumbo Kingdom went through a major multi million-dollar renovation in 2003, which transformed it into a theme park on the sea including dining, shopping, sightseeing and cultural attractions.”

I suspect a large establishment like the Jumbo Kingdom requires a huge customer flow. And I think the restaurant caters to quick flowing tourists, such as Grey Line Tours, for a portion of that traffic. We were seated quickly and platters of dim sum were laid on the table as we sat. There was no choice and little ambiance. I understand the need for turnover but I prefer the dim sum restaurants we have visited in San Francisco, Seattle, and Vancouver, BC. There you are seated at a table, drinks are ordered and the staff bring by dishes to be viewed and ordered throughout the process. Then, as each appetizer is requested, your bill is annotated and later totaled. We enjoy that system and also being able to pick our choices and reorder an exceptional dish as we relax.

After our luncheon we drove to the Stanley Market. “Stanley Market is located on Hong Kong island and is one of the most visited Hong Kong Street Markets. Lots of travel agencies will bring their customers to Stanley Market, not only because it is close to Hong Kong’s other attraction, Repulse Bay, but also many people think it is a great place to purchase both Western and Chinese clothing as well as typical Chinese souvenirs like paintings, chopsticks, cards, seals, etc. It is a typical street market and you can and are expected to bargain with the shop owners.

Insider Tips: Stanley Market is a unique combination of shops, stalls and outdoor markets and gets particular busy on Weekends. If you don’t like the crowds we highly recommend visiting Stanley Market during the Week. You often have a better bargaining position and get some real good bargains it you start your sightseeing around the opening hours of Stanley Market.”

We walked through the market for a couple of hours and found table runners, dark glasses, and decorations to bring home. It was very enjoyable to walk through all the shops, hearing many different languages and speculating how diverse this market could be. It filled a large portion of our afternoon.

Our tour also included the expected “Cameo Tour”, so called because I first saw the marketing

265 technique the first time at a cameo factory when I went to Pompeii in 1972. A tour guide stops in at a local jewelry store or pottery barn for an “opportunity to view local artisans” at their work. Then you are a captive audience for an hour or two in hopes you will buy the product.

Today it was a trip to Tse Sui Luen Jewelry Company, LTD. “TSL is one of the few merchants that are the recipients of the Outstanding QTS Merchant Award for more than 10 years and counting. Known for offering a wide range of products from quality cut diamonds to outstanding original design handcrafted jewelry, a visit to the TSL factory will give you an exclusive first-hand experience on its state of art jewelry facility.”

Our guide said his boss was a friend of the proprietor and “he had to make this stop even if we didn't buy anything.” And that was actually what did happen. We listened to a briefing, sampled the complementary drinks (tea for us) and then left. I do not believe anyone purchased anything on this visit.

Our tour finished back at the Marco Polo Hotel and we relaxed in the lounge before going up to our room to pack for tomorrow's departure. I believe World Spree did an excellent job in selecting a central location for us to explore Hong Kong for our first time.

Monday, March 14

The Cathay Pacific flight home was comfortable and we caught up with old Columbo mysteries as well as House of Cards (Season 3) along the way. We've seen most of the other films.

Processing through immigration was a little slow but smooth. We did have to call the hotel to coordinate an on-call but not routinely scheduled pick-up for the Dylan at SFO. The hotel is a little long in the tooth but it met our requirement to be close to a BART station (one block) and near the airport.

We walked through the neighborhood to see what might be available locally. Then we had a late lunch at Bay Watch. Sharing a good burger and tuna fish sandwiches with a great pico de gallo salad with poppy-seed dressing, we were ready to get ready for tomorrow morning and crash for the night.

Tuesday, March 15

The Millbrae Station is only 600 feet from the door of the hotel. We had our BART passes in hand and rode the system to a couple blocks from the corner of Bush and Grant, the Chinatown Gate. We were early so we walked through the shops near the gate. When our guide arrived we knew it was the same guide we had several years ago.

Liz and I had taken the Local Tastes of the City Tour with Tom Medlin through the Italian District on August 15, 2011 ( our trip report from that date ). We were more than pleased to see Tom again today.

As before, Mr. Medlin is extremely knowledgeable of the history of San Francisco and he easily makes that information available while conducting you through his city. He knows all the the restaurateurs he introduces you to and insures you have the best food tastes and how their traditions came about when transported to this country and specifically San Francisco.

266 We were well impressed with our visit to the Eastern Bakery. We have been to China three times and this bakery gave us new experiences. We enjoyed Buns, Pork Buns, Shumai, shrimp dumplings, Moon Cake; and Chinese Tamales. Only the Shumai was familiar to us and all were excellent. The portion sizes were generous but we tasted and enjoyed each offering.

Walking through the markets was also and educational experience. We were introduced to foodstuffs we had never known of before and even more interesting, food preparation methods (dried meat processes) we had never known before.

The visit to Vital Leaf was absolutely charming. We prepare our tea, as pointed out to us, in a British tradition and that is completely different than the method China prefers. We now have excellent reason to try to emulate that system to take advantage of the enhanced flavors we have now enjoyed for the first time.

At Begoni Bistro our offerings were Crispy Onion Pancakes and Shanghai Dumplings. Both were superior offerings. I have eaten zweibelkuchen and onion tarts elsewhere and these were new, delightful presentations that my wife will try to duplicate. As for the Shanghai Dumplings. I had only heard of them before. I had never tasted them until this day. They were scrumptious and would have been a perfect reason to take the tour in themselves but everything was delicious... to the eyes and the palate. It was a delightful day and a delightful tour.

After we left the tour we walked to Trader Joe's on Bay Street and then we walked to the Powell-Mason turntable at Bay Street. Then we rode the streetcar back down Powell and our connection to the BART. But before that we stopped in for dinner at Johnny Foley's. We ordered two pints of Harp and Mussels in Irish Whiskey Cream Sauce with Bacon, Garlic & and Buttermilk Fried Onion Strings

267 with House Made Ranch Dip.

Wednesday, March 16

Duplicating yesterday's beginning, we went to the BART station but rode Bart to the Ferry Building. A few shops have turned over since the last time we were here but we did enjoy Peets Cuban Cappuccino. We had a Living Social coupon for Chiaroscuro so we walked parallel to the waterfront until we cut toward our later destination. Along the way we saw an office park and a few stores and noted we were not far from Chinatown so we went there to look for shops we had not seen yesterday.

Walked to check out the restaurant location. Then shopped in Chinatown again. We window shopped for over an hour and then returned to chiarocsuro .

“Chiaroscuro (kee-ahr-uh-skyoo-roh) Italian for clear dark is a term in art for a contrast between light and dark. Most often associated with the Italian renaissance painter Caravaggio, chiaroscuro is a technique used to describe bold contrasts affecting a whole composition and used to achieve a sense of volume in modeling three-dimensional objects, this concept of contrast and volume is expressed through the décor of the dining room, marked by high backed banquettes and an open kitchen.

For over a decade, chiaroscuro /Owner Alessandro Campitelli has been honing his innate ability to bring excellence to the dining experience, a native of Rome Italy, Chef Alessandro began working at the young age of 14 as a waiter in a small intimate restaurant in the heart of the city. From that point on he knew he had found his passion and began to pursue more challenging roles in the industry.”

The menu was concise but not limiting as we had plenty of choices. We shared antipasto (misto italiano - tasting of imported and house made Italian charcuterie, pickled vegetables, daily chef cheese selection); (trilogia romana - amatriciana - carbonara - cacio e pepe); and Secondi (pancetta di maiale brasata - balsamic glazed pork belly, potato puree, mix vegetables ragu’).

Everything was scrumptious and we truly enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere and we spent almost two hours enjoying our lunch. We were pleasantly full and needed to take a walk back to the Embarcadero. Later we would stop at Cafe Bellini for coffee and pastry (pecan bar, lemon bar).

Again, we walked to the cable car and rode it back to the Bart station and then to our hotel. We had walked a full day and needed to be ready to return home tomorrow morning.

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