C A S N E A U ’ S G U I D E

FO R

A RTISTIC D RE S S C U T N O A N D MA KIN G

LI E . A E A . MRS . A C A Q SN U

B M OS O ASS . T N ,

' o ' i z l’ lfld A D I I / C , 1 80 m g ‘ 4 5

P RE S S O F B R OOKS B A N K NOT E CO M PA N Y

BO S TO N M A S S . , IN D EX.

INTR O D U C T I O N

P UR C HA S ING G o o n s . ~

D I R E C T I O N S F O R TA K I N G M EASURES $ N D C H A P T E R I . C U TT IN G T HE A IS T A S LEE V E LIN ING D IAG RAM I D IAG RAM II S UMMAR Y

u o s C HA P TER I I . B A S T I N G D IAG RAM III

S UMMAR Y P I I F ‘V A T D C HA T ER I . ITTING THE I S A N S LEE V E D I A G R A M V

S UMMAR Y D IAG RAM V I I

C H A P T E R I V .

’ D I A G R A M I \

NOT ES ON

D I A G R A M X I .

C H A P T E R V TH E D IAG RAM

D I A G R A M XHI - n o - o - $ o u n D I AG RAM \’ I V S UMMAR Y

D I A G R A M XV S PRA C TI C A L S UGG EST I

PRA C T I C A L S UGG ES T IONS TO Y O UNG DR ESSMA K ER S . S HO P P IN G D ONE

CUSTOM O R D ER M EASU RE S . ’ A UT HOR S A D V ERT I S EMEN T T D I IN RO U CT O N .

My apology for this addition to the already long list of in s t r uc tions for dress cutting and making is a sincere desire t o present a guide for pupils and young dressmakers which shall contain a mod

e rat e o f . list of direction s , all which are practical working rules S uggestions are given as t o the most suitable style of gowns for

t o o n o various figures , cloth be preferred , and s on ; but attempt is

made to describe fashion . That would be extreme folly , considering the fact that styles change every month ; but it is al ways essen tial

t h o w o know to make a good fitting waist , how to make and han g a

n o ff skirt properly , and also how to fi ish well . The rules fo r these poin ts in dressma king are ' standard ones fo r it matters not how often fash ion changes and whether the effect to

w ais t is be desired is loose , concealing the figure , or the snugly

'

- c ut t in is fitted . The principle of dress g always the same ; namely , a

perfectly fitted an d boned lining .

w h o h Besides , there are ladies can wear none ot er but a plain h i I n m o f fitted waist , wit perhaps a little pointed trimm ngs the for

o r un r r w revers a a o vest . To the woman of moderate means an d to the - young dressmaker

this book is invaluable. It is sure to satisfy a long - felt wan t o f

e w h o i i at wome n in g neral , and especially those o d the r sew ng home o r women wh o anticipate learning the trade as means Of gaining a

Hv e h h o o d . r The di ections are carefully written , with a view to being readily ’ o s it iv e l o understood by the pupil “ It is p ya year s instructi n con de n s ed s o - w , yet fully explained that any person ith the inclination

of h o w - lo o k c an o to learn , and having ideas a dress Should / , by f llow $ i ' M e x e r n . ing the directions given , become an artist this line , y p i ence in teaching h as been that knowing a system o r chart $d oes not necessarily make o n e a dressmaker ; and even if a pupil has a nat ural aptitude , and has acquired a fitness for the work by sewing in a

fi r s t - s o r e s o n s ibil class establishment , nothing helps her much as p

o n t o ity , to know that her work and to her j udgment and taste as 4

o f r the selection t immings , blending of shades , and style of gown a which is best suited to the person who is to wear it , depends the p proval or the disapproval of the patron , and , I may add , her friends . For you know a gown must please a great number o f people besides

t o r o r the wearer, give the d essmaker any credit the owner satis faction .

r t o do I would advise eve y pupil learn a good system , but not let your instruction end here ; fo r in these days dressmaking is truly

r o f artistic , and the woman who would be mist ess the trade must u u st dy , plan , and be painstaking from the time the c stomer gives her order until the dress is finished and sent home .

Ill- fi t t in g , poorly finished dresses are a waste of money and loss I f of comfort . you are an noyed by such or compelled to stand hours

is r un until your patience utte ly exhausted , be convinced it is all

h o w necessary . The guide teaches to make all changes with two o r t o n O t h e . three imes trying , and while the basque is ff figure S ome of the distinctive features o f the book may be briefly stated as follows

I THE A R R A NGE M ENT I NTO C HA P TE R S an d . sections in a systematic way places the rules where they will come in regular order fo r cut ting and making a gown .

2 . A TA B LE G I V I NG A L I S T O F F I N D I NG S , and the amount necessary fo r making a dress , is a feature especially valuable to beginners .

THE A R GE N M B E R F I S T R ATI ON S v 3 . L U O LL U will be ery helpfu l to pupils .

THE S U G S S l in . G E T I ON 4 after each chapter . These are ful of

r a fo mation which gener lly comes by experience , and will be of great

t o value the reader .

I t h w f t o o r 5 . teaches o and on what grain o the cloth lay each p o f tion the pattern for cutting . 6 H $ T M f . O O E C ONO I Z E i n cutting , how to overcome di ficulties

m a r . which y occur in fitting , how to baste , p ess , and fin ish correctly FU LL D I R E C T I ON S GOOD FI TT I N G 7 . are given for making a and perfectly finished dress by any system , besides cuts and illustrations Showing h o w t o make nearly any gown which the average young dressmaker would attempt . , 8 I T DOE S N O T C ON F U S E r fo r . the pupil by giving inst uctions cut r r ting every ga ment worn by women and children , but deals di ectly r with d ess cutting and making , as I have found few young women w h o had either the time or money t o Spend in learning anything h t o whic was not absolut e ly necessary for beginners know . THE F ITTED M ODE L P ATTE R N S n o t t o 9 . , while they are warranted

m fit every figure without changes , will prove a special aid to the ho e f d . o r ressmaker The curves are correct , and the directions their

use plainly written ; and , therefore , the pupil may be safely trusted o f fi t to cut an d fi t any style waist by the rules given , and by first ting to the intending wearer a common Silesia or cambric pattern

traced from these models .

I O TH E G I DE I S S E F - TEA C HI NG . U L , and can be used with any system

o r . with p aper patterns The rules are simple , and have been thor

oughly tested . In brief , the aim has been to make the work emi n n l is e t y practical for the average woman . My only request that

the pupil will follow accurately every detail of instruction . From the necessity of finding an easy method fo r those who have

m r h O in been under y personal instruction , I a range this book , p g it

will prove a great benefi t to the possessor ; and , should you fi nd your work easier and more perfectly done by following the rules

it s given , I trust you will recommend purchase by your friends .

THE A UT HO R .

l 1 8 A r i . p , 95

TO THE READ E R .

N ever leave a part or section until it is accomplished as well as it

n can be done . Give particular attention to li es and curves which A beautify the figure . basq ue may fit the figure , yet lack that sym

metry which distinguishes high - class work from that done by in D ’ ’ experienced persons . on t hurry , don t work any faster than you ’ read and comprehend thoroughly , don t tax yourself with more than R one thing at a time . emember that this work has been done hun

dreds of times by the rules given an d in the manner described , and

is all arranged for you . Cut each piece of cloth and lin ing as care fully as if it were striped ; for you know that plain goods are in v is

ibl o f r un y striped , that is , the threads or grain the cloth straight

and , unless all th e portions of a basque are cut and fitted together so

that the lengthwise thread runs straight down the figure , to an ex p e r ie n c ed eye the effect is as bad as though stripes were un

a matched . When dress is properly cut , basted , fitted , pressed , and

finished , the figure is shown at its full length , consequently to its

best advan tage . The impression prevails that it is a di fficult matter to make a per

fe c tl - fi t t in y smooth g garmen t . The idea is erroneous . The secret l o f is simp y this , to make every part the dress except the outside

ull n material f ; that is , the i side , trimmings , linings , facings , bind

- - ings , bone casings , belt , sleeve protectors , b raid ; full , in Short , all o f o ut the inside trim mings waist and skirt should be loose , and , the

side material being drawn tightly over the linings , it can not wrinkle . I would advise the reader t o endeavor to get j ust the right amoun t

o f ful ness on the inside of the gown , not enough to make the lining

aim . unsightly , and to spoil the garment ; but at the right quantity o f o u But the two extremes , I would prefer that y have the inside

t o o finishing a little full rather than too tight .

Avoid having your work appear puckered in the least . Take the stitches firm , but do not draw them too tight . Al ways spring the f O whalebon e into the seams o the waist as tightly as possible . n e of the firs t and greatest considerations is to take the utmost pains 8

l o f with your work . The habit which many peop e have Slighting

o n e the finishing of the dress is a very bad , and the woman can never become a successful seamstress who does not take in finite

e o f o f I pains in very part the making a garment . know all about those last stitches which are s o aggravating when the garm e nt is al

: it o uc a n k most finished seems that y never ta e the final stitch .

Y o u r o n will become ve y tired , but no accoun t Slight the finishing . Make it a practice t o complete every piece o f work as well as yo u kno w h o w

N O T E .

I n o f cutting , lay the front edge of each portion pattern of waist o r o r o f I do skirt toward a selvage straight thread the goods . not mean that the front edge o f pattern Should always b e parallel with the straight thread o f the material ; but generally it should be

n turned toward it , the only exceptio being the back forms of the

$ w i r e ba r k o f o r basque , the which Should lie toward the selvage t straigh thread .

5 5 5 D ia ra m s g .

The Li n es of a Waist .

These should be gradual curves never allo w a decided waist - line b E b e to be visi le . very line Should be a continuous curve from the ginning to the end , following the lines of the figure . The back form f o f I - should usually taper to f an inch or inch waist line , the

t h e side back form should be narrow , and the distance from centre front to the first dart must be quite narrow at the waist - line and o f u f If below the same to bottom basq e giving a tapering e fect . it is t o necessary have broad seams , make them under the arm , and always add the extra under - arm portion to a basque fo r a stout

e r o u figure . Have in mind a perfect figure , and by xe cising care y

r can make a poor o flat figure appear round an d shapely .

Purcha s in g Go ods .

’ What to buy for customers o r indeed for one s self is sometimes To r a perplexing matter . commence , it is gene ally conceded that

r there is no economy in buying cheap goods o linings .

fo r e When purchasing goods ev ning wear , material with all trim

i- e n mings should be seen under gas light , as the colors are often i t re ly changed under evening light . 9

It is advisable for persons o f slender means to select material which can be worn both day and evening . Care should be taken to select such quality and style as are suited to the individual . Thus

o r goods of a heavy , costly design are better suited to the elderly

- middle ag ed lady and to a tall , stout figure than to a young or slender person . Persons o f short stature should never wear large plaids n o r broad

o r stripes . Large persons look well in plain goods , fin e stripes , tiny checks ; and of course there is shown in the shops a great variety of mate r ials for party dresses and handsome cloths fo r severe street

m gowns which can be purchased at oderate prices . The genteel woman w ill avoid wearing anything w h ich attracts

o f attention because its showiness , but is ambitious to possess a wardrobe which is admired because of its elegance and Simplicity . It is possible for any woman to follow the approved style and s t ill dress very becomin gly if she has the faculty of striking the right

w w h o medium . There are women who kno how to dress well and always wear the most appropriate things . There is an other class who have s o little time t o give to matters of dress that they conten t themselves if they are simply clothed neatly . Then there are women who have not the least idea of what they should wear . To the two latter classes the dressmaker should give

n u special attentio , and advise $if the c stomer does her own buying) l how to select the materia , color , an d style which , in her j udgment , will best suit the person and the occasion on which the dress is to be w in - orn . Every season there is shown the large dry goods houses s o many pretty novelties in modest design s that , with a little atten tion given in buying goods and selecting trimmin gs to match , on e

n o a n d c an need make mistake , acquire a habit of dressing i n a man ner which will indicate good taste ; and let me add that the wise woman will prefer to expend her money in the quality of cloth which s h e n buys rather than in the qua tity of trimmings . I know women who will stare at you in blank amazement if you show them samples of goods at per yard $which is wide and less is required for a dress than goods of a cheaper grade , aside from the fact that less trimming is needed) , but will buy two or three yards more of a less expensive but narrower goods , and then get a great quan tity of ribbon or other decorations , making the gown as expensive , when fi nished , as though a better material had been used , and as a consequence receive not half the satisfaction in wearing . I O

s of A s fo M a n a ss Li t rticle req uired r ki g Dre .

Fo r - o f a medium sized lady , material required will be 7 yards goods 6 o r 8 2 o f 4 4 inches wide , 5 yards cotton surah for waist and sleeve

o f lining , 5 yards percaline for skirt lining . Always buy good waist and skirt linings : o n e o f the chief essen

t ials e n is is to good dr ssmaki g to use the best inside linings . There r O no economy in buying inferio dress trimmings . ne yard of alpaca o f o f f for facing bottom Skirt , yard ta feta Silk the color of the ma

t e r ial an d for facing basque , collar , and sleeves , yard more if revers t o or other trimmings are be faced , yard of inside belting , number

o f o f n o f yards velvetee or braid depending on the width the skirt , 9 buy 5 yard more than the actual length required to allow for sewing

on and shrinkage .

o r Hair cloth , canvas , other stiffening for skirt , the kind and

amount which fashion demands .

N o f h fo r yards grass clot sleeves . N f spools o silk . Q f t spools o twist . H spool Of cotton .

I — - r roll of taffeta seam binding .

q — - r r o f oll bone casing .

I o r du dozen bones good steels , assorted lengths . I recommend

plex dress steels .

I - pair of sleeve protectors .

I o r f fo r card of hooks and eyes buttons , silk dust ru fle inside of

n n o f bottom of skirt , number of yards depe ding upo width skirt ,

r - feathe bone , elastic , and whatever other additions that the prevail ing style may dictate .

Directio n s fo r taki n g M ea sures a n d testin g a Pattern .

Fo r length o f back measure from the nape of neck to the extreme point of waist at centre back .

t o o f To measure for p darts , place the tape measure at cen tre back o f o n t o neck , and measure over the shoulder a straight line the top o f o u first dart , being careful that y measure well over the bust , that

n the darts may o t be too high .

To o f get size bust , place the tape measure around the largest o f part the figure in front , bring it under the arms and across the

us e o n e - thick part of the figure at the back , half . I I

For width of back , measure across the shoulder blades from

armpit to armpit . For length of waist at front measure from centre back of neck to

o f . extreme poin t waist at front , a straight line over the shoulders

Measure size of waist . o f t o o f To measure for sleeves , get length arm from the p the

shoulder to the elbow , and continue down to the wrist , and write

down both measures .

Measure arm size .

fo r To measure the Skirt , pin extra tape measure around waist , and

t . measure leng h of Skirt , fron t , side , and back

T N O E .

$oin and measure , less seams , every part of the waist pattern pre c is el y as you have the figure , and increase or diminish the size or

length , if n ecessary . Always buy the newest skirt pattern .

CHA PT E R I.

C U T T I N G THE $ A I S T A N D S LE E V E LI I N N G .

S E 1 C n h n n o f ro n of a s . CTION . utti g t e Li i g F t W i t

Leave the lining double , as it was bought . Place it on the cut

ting board with the folded edge toward you , having the greatest

quantity falling to the right hand , with the end of lining on the

board at the left . Place the fron t portion of the pattern on s o that the fron t edge 2 will come to the selvage of linin g , allowing inches from the line

o f for centre front on pattern , with the neck toward the right hand

t o o f and the bottom of the pattern end lining at the left . Pin the

t o u pattern securely the lining , trace out the fronts only $not nder

O r r un arm forms) from the neck right hand down , being careful to

exactly on the lines , because straight seams depend in a great meas

- u ure upon correct tracings . Trace the waist line , sho lder seams ,

and top of darts .

n I I Whe cutting out , allow inch on the shoulder seams , inch on

- 2 o n the front under arm seam , and inches the cen tre front . Cut

close to the pattern at the arm size . Always cut the lining a trifle higher than the pattern at the

centre front of neck , running to the line as you near the Shoulders .

lo w I t is well to do this , as the waist is ruined if cut too at the neck .

‘ S ee f r om of D iag ra m 1 .

2 S E C C n h n n o f a o s . TION . utti g t e Li i g B ck F rm

o u dia r a m s If y are cutting by one of the g , work by rules given

o n the same .

n If from a paper or draughted pattern , tur the piece of lining

over from which the front was cut , that is , have the folded edge

r om o u f y and the cut edge toward you , and you have an end I 4

m Shaped very uch like the back form . Place the pattern o f back form o n with the centre back sea m parallel with the folded edge of

h n the linin g $that is , from you) , wit the back eck toward the right hand and the bottom o f pattern o n the small end o f lining at the

w n r m . o u left Pin pattern at the neck only , then dra the patter f o y

- I z at the waist line I inches .

E X PL ANATI ON . The centre back seam should slan t izz across the

o f I z grain the cloth as it leaves the neck , un til a full i inches is

- taken o ut at the waist line .

t o t h e This shows plainly in stripes , causing them taper at waist lin e ; and you will remember that you are to cut all goods as if they we re striped .

Pin the pattern as it is arranged securely to the lining, and trace fro m the neck o r right han d down . Also t race s h oulders and waist line .

I n o ut I o n t h e cutting back form , allow for seams inch shoulder , o f o n t o an inch the centre back . Cut close patte r n at the neck an d w o n arm size , and allo 5 inch the round seam .

e e ba rk m f m o D ia ra m 1 S f f g .

S E 8 C n n n . CTION . utti g the Li i g of Side Back Form

v o f n o u Turn the sel age lini g toward y , with the small end from which the front neck was cut toward the right hand . Place the

o f o n pattern side back form , having the arm size the small curved

t h e . piece , toward the right , with fron t edge of pattern toward selvage

I fo r Allow inch seam at the upper end , and pin pattern to lining

a r m - at the Size . Then move the pattern at the waist line until

is o f it away from the selvage 3 inches , thus crossing the grain the lining s o that the side form will fit into the back form as if h o n e n t ey were piece of goods . The straight grai of the pattern will lay on a straight thread Of the material . ’ S ea s ia e dark o r m a D ia ra m 1 f f g .

S E 4 C n h n n O f o n o . CTION . utti g t e Li i g Fr t Side F rm

Ge t o f a selvage or lengthwise fold the lining , turn the same from

u . o f o n yo Place the pattern front side form the lining , with the a r m r r o f size towa d the ight hand , having the front the pattern u t rned toward the straight thread . Allowing a medium seam at the r upper end , pin in place at the a m size , and draw the pattern away I s

D I A GRAM I .

w h n Sho ing t e position of patte r o n lining .

t h s an d th h e N otice e e xact po ition e lin e s of e ach portion of t patte rn .

n h - ar m m Li ing to b e turn e d wh e n cutting t e Si de b ack an d un de r for .

e e th e Gr at st quantity toward right hand .

E e r e r l r e b u e u V in l l e t h e e m xc pt fo v y a g sts , tak p a ining, aving s a

m e th de m co e n xt to e outsi ate rial . 1 6

from the selvag e or leng t hwise thread at the waist - line o n ly 2 %

inches . Trace from the arm Size or right hand down exactly on the

- lines . Also trace the waist line .

u o ut w I o n In c tting , allo inch the front and back seams , and

cut close t o pattern at the arm Size .

5 r o m s ide o r m D ia r a m 5 5 1 . f f , g

I f the waist is to be cut with a double under- arm form for a stout

r o n figure , cut the ext a portion the same principle by which the front d side for m was one .

E n S CTION 5 . Cutti g the M aterial fo r Fro n t

n $of Pl ai Goo ds) .

Place the goods on the board with the folded edge from you , hav

ing the greatest quantity of cloth falling toward the right hand , and

o f o n the end the goods the board toward the left . Place the lining

o n the material , so that the centre front will be parallel with the

6 o r 8 selvage about inches from same , with the neck toward the r ight and the bottom O f pattern to th e end of the goods a t the

o n left hand . Be sure that the lining is perfectly straight the mate r ial by measu ring from the selvag e of the lining at neck t o the s el

vage o f the material . Measure the distance from edge to edge at

o f t o the bottom , having the amount cloth correspond at each end . u w Then pin in place , and c t the goods even ith the lining on the

o n D o shoulders , at the arm Size , and the side seam . not cut

o ut o n the neck , but cut straight across the goods a line with the

r l fo r shoulde . Also leave the extra inches al owed on the front

o r is fulness , fine pleats , revers , at any rate until after the waist

o u o f . fi tted , and y have decided what style front you prefer

S 6 C n . E CTION . utti g the M aterial o f Back Form s

Place the lining o f back form with the centre sea m to w ard the

folded edge of goods , and follow carefully the directions given i n f S 2 o . ection for cutting lining back form If making a plain back ,

I f o r a cut even with the lining . a plaited a fancy b ck , cut according

Z i t S e c dir ect iazzs o r z / l a r /I . to instructions for the same . f fi )

D I AGRAM I I .

h e e n n n n N h Show ing t e sl e ev patt r pin e d o li ing . ot e t e straight grain h o n a l e n gth w is e thr e ad of t e lining .

e e w e t h e d - Lining to b turn d h n cutting un e r Sl eeve portion . U ppe r a n d lowe r corn e rs of uppe r portion touching a s e lvage or straight

n m thre ad O f th e li n ing a d ate rial . I 9

o f Before cutting the several portions the material , measure from any

i o n plaid , by a mark on the tracing of the lin ng , for the block the portions to which this block is to be j oined . Cut the material of the side forms and under arm forms very much larger than the lin ing of

fo r . same , to allow matchin g

To joi n the R o un d Back Se am s .

n First baste the lini g to the material of the back forms , then baste together the centre back seam , matching the plaids . Mark

w a is z - lm a N on l o f the . ow take the material y $not linings) the Side

n m k back forms , and j oi the to the bac forms , basting on the outside

o r of waist , along the line of basting matching the plaid stripe as

o r n you baste , making a perfect block straight li e . The j oining should be s aga: oversewing ; but a firm stitch must be taken o n each

o r but stripe plaid , being careful not to take the stitches deep , to

o n hold the goods securely in place , barely catching the goods th e

s ide outside of the forms , and taking stitches through to the bast

n lizz zz ings o the i g of the roun d seams of the back forms .

N o w plac e the w a is t - lin e of the side back form lin ing to the waist o f line the back form , and baste in the usual way , having tracings to meet tracings , and lining to come out even at the arm size . Baste

- o f from the waist line to bottom basque , then smooth the material f i i over the lining of side orm , and baste the l n ng to material on the side seam , wrinkling the lines as usual . Take out bastings , and

- o f notice that the lines are not broken . Fit the under arm forms

o r in plaid stripe to the side back form s the manner described above ,

n - the j oin the under arm form to the front . In basting the bias dart , have the stripe or plaid the same distance from the seam on each t h side of e basque .

T N O E .

in Wrinkle the lining slightly , j ust as you would basting an ordi

nary waist .

fo r These directions are given j oining the seams of plaid waists ,

but the prevailing mode of cutting is to have the back in one piece .

r The beauty of a plain , pe fectly fi tted wuaist is something that can never be denied . While full fronts witho t darts , full backs , and so

on , are fashionable, yet the woman who is in the least inclined to

can - fi t t in plumpness always with perfect safety wear a close g waist ,

o n a l with back form seams and darts the outside m teria , with per 2 0 haps a little fulness or a few fine plaits at the centre fron t to cover an S the fastenings , d having n arrow revers as a trim ming . till , in these days , when the one piece back and fron t , the full gathered and

s o . plaited , waists are fashionable , it may be well to give directions for making those waists . A few suggestions may not be out O f place concerning the waists most commonly worn .

- fi t t in S Before cutting your waist , get a good g pattern . elect the

is o r diagram which nearest in figures to your size . Trace out all p

a Or tions exactly s directed . Cut from common Silesia cambric a

: o ut o f pattern , baste together, and fit it to the figure then rip half

o n e the pattern . Cut Sleeve by diagram , baste , fit it , and rip the

o f u seams same . Be assured that the pattern fits the fig re , and cut your lining by this Silesia pattern $never by the paper di agram) . This takes a little more time ; but such a pattern will prove o f ines u o f timable val e , saving a great amount refitting and changes in making the waist .

T 0 make a Waist with a N arrow V e st with Tw e

B o x Plait s o n E ith er Side .

I S I f b . Cut the waist y Chapter , ection , with the lining astening f down the centre ront , having the goods left full on the outside of front .

o f Cut the vest velvet , or whatever trimming you are using , line with

n t o crinoline and face with silk , and the baste ; an d fasten , sewing it

o f o f the right hand Sid e the lining . Then form the extra fulness

b o x outside material into a plait on either side , running from the

o f an d j unction the neck Shoulder , making plait to taper at the waist l o f ine . Finish the bottom waist , and hook the vest on the left side

t h e u nder the plait . Another way to use extra material is to gather it at the shoulder seams , and draw the goods into fi ne plaits at the cent re front .

Y n To set a oke i t o a Full Gathered Wai st . u C t waist lining in the usual man ner . Have outside material very

- full back and front , but fitted on under arm seams . Turn the outside material down , and baste the yoke to lining . Gather t he outside ma

in o f t e r ial t o the yoke . A waist made this way should have a yoke

e m a Silk with two or three fin e plaits through the c ntre , and y be

e a t ov rlaid with heavy lace , the points meeting the centre front .

V elvet ribbon or any other t rimmings may be added . 2 1

l To set a Y oke o n a P ain W aist .

Cut the lining and outside in the usual manner . Fit , stitch , an d

press all but the shoulder seams . Then cut the yoke of Silk or lace

or both $without seams in front and back) , the size of your waist O and the length desired . Line with crinoline an d face . pen the h shoulder seam . Baste the back yoke to basque , making it smoot

o n o n o f the same . Then baste the fron t of yoke the right side

waist at the arm size and on the shoulder an d aroun d th e neck . Face h the left arm size and shoulder of yoke , sew on hooks , and trim wit

o r ribbon any way desired .

T 0 a a a s a a n d o n o a m ke W i t , Full B ck Fr t , ver

n n Fitted Li i g .

o f Cut the lining in the usual manner . Baste the centre seam

n back forms : j oi to these the side back forms . Cut the outside ma t e r ial a a n d s ide or m in on e iece very full , b ck f p , Shape to lining at the side seam an d on the shoulders . Baste the centre of the full l outside material secure y to the cen tre of th e lining . Gather it around the neck , and have the fulness drawn down in fi ne plaits at

h - t e waist line .

Cut the material of the fron t by the lining , making it very m uch broader on the fron t . Baste lining to material on the shoulder ,

- th e around the arm Size , on the under arm seam , and to French dart ,

nl /in z/z e lin in o n f/z e a l e r a l e g g m i . Take up the front dart in the

a d o f in lining , n j oin the seams the waist as directed preceding chap ter . Gather the full outside around the front neck , and draw the

- waist line fulness into fine plaits at the centre fron t . Poin t waist

fo r back and front a large figure .

o n s fo C n oa o h V o Directi r utti g Br dcl t , elvet , Fl wered M a a s o Goo s in a n s n h h teri l . r d y De ig w ic i are n o t R evers ble .

Cut two pieces o f the goods for e ach portion the desired length

n for basque or skirt . Fold them together , having the flower , desig , o r o f grain the cloth of both pieces running the same way . Then

n o n E place the li ing , and cut out . conomize as much as possible

fo r - by using up the small pieces the under arm forms , etc . 2 2

Directio n s for Cuttin g a Waist without D arts show in g o n th e O utside a n d with B ack a n d Side

Back Form in O n e P iece .

fo r Cut the lining as a tight waist . Baste the material on the

- under arm form as directed in section o n bastin g . Cut the outside

fo r o n goods back and side back form in e piece . Allowing as much

fo r e o f fulness c ntre back as desired , baste the seam lining at cen tre f n o . back , also baste the side forms to back forms lini g When this

o f is done , baste the full outside material the lining at the side o u seams , being careful that y have the goods tight on the lining in

o f basting , also at the shoulder seam . Gather the extra fulness

t o cloth at the back neck , first finding the centre , and basting it the

o r t h e centre seam of lining , then plait gather goods into a small h space to t e lining at the bottom of the waist .

n To baste the fro t , cut outside material i n the usual way , baste

o n to the lining at the arm size , the side seams , and on the shoulders , using the same precaution in basting the seams as fo r the ordinary waist . When fitted , stretch the outside material over the figure ,

o f o r and make into fine plaits at the bottom centre front . Gather

t o o r fit the cloth smoothly the lining around the neck , j oin the p

o n tions , an d finish as directed in chapter waist finishing . I w o uld advise the pupil not t o attempt to make a fron t in this style except of a thin o r some soft clinging material which will lend itself readily to the curves of the figure .

o n e b e c o m A stylish waist , and which will be found particularly

'

t o - r o f a ing slender and medium sized figu es , is made silk fulled b ck

an d o r and front over a tight lin ing , covered with lace some thin r Fo r t imming gathered on the silk . evening wear any gauzelike

r u a fab ic may be sed for the bodice , m de very full and drawn tightly

- o r b elt down at the waist line . For day evening wear a and collar

e of rich passement rie mav be added . The sleeves can be made of same material as skirt .

To cut a Back with out C e n tre Seam o n the O ut

- s h n a s n a s . ide , wit Fi e W i t li e Pl it

‘ Place the z r a eing o f lining at the j unction o f the nec k and centre m D w back sea on a folded edge of the material . ra the lining at the waist - line abo u t I i n ch o r a little less away from the folded 2 3

o n edge , and shape material to the lin ing the shoulders and on the round seam .

n t o $oin the centre back seam of the lini g , and baste it the goods

o n at the shoulders and the roun d seam . Baste the centre or folded edge of the material to the cen tre seam of lining , wrinkling th e

t o n lining , and form the wais line fulness into two small plaits either S side , having them to meet at centre back . titch and press the

t o plaits , and j oin the Side back form the back form .

S U M M A RY .

When cutting outside material of side back forms , the line for

u o f l tracing Sho ld usually cross the grain cloth ; that is , S ant away

w a is z - iin e from the straight thread about 3 inches at the , an d have I o f the inch seam at the arm size the portion .

o u . If y wish to economize in cutting , follow strictly th e rules

o f - Make changes in the size waist on the under arm seams . The upper and lower corners o f the upper sleeve portion should

o f touch a selvage or straight thread the lin ing and outside material . H ave the latest sleeve pattern by which to cut the outside ma l t e ria .

N n o n D I otice the positio of the pattern iagram . , and place the

n portions of lining on the material in the same man er . Leave each portion o f lining and goods folded together as they

t o were cut out , and prepare baste the waist . CHAPTE R II.

B A S T I N G .

S E I n b n n o s t . CTION . Prep ari g to a te Li i g the M aterial

I f ar e Commence with fron ts . lining and material folded right

o ut Side , take up both together j ust as they were taken from the

N u m I 2 . board when cut out . mber the , . 3 , 4 Place them on cut

r n ting board o table with the lining on the upper side . Havi g the h s oulder and neck toward the righ t hand , then take the outside

l t o O f i I “ piece of materia , place it the outside piece lin ng , to 4 .

f r This portion o f the front is co rrect o basting . N ow take the two 2 inner pieces $lining an d goods marked and 3 , which will be wron g

is o ut side out) , and reverse them , that , turn the side which is in , ,

o u e and place together , and y have both fronts r ady to baste . Pre pare each portion O f the dress in the same man ner

is If material is folded right side in , as often the case with novel ties , broadcloth , and some other goods , take lining and goods to

e a r do n e/e I 2 . t h e d gether as cut f , Mark , , 3 , 4 Take outsi e

o f n o f I : piece li ing and inside piece goods , and 3 do not change

m . r the position , but place the together These portions are co rect

n 2 . for basting . The reverse the two remaining pieces , , 4 This may seem to the pupil a long way around a simple thing ; but it can o f be quickly don e , and there is never any danger getting two f s o o n e . piece the basque for side Besides , goods very nearly alike

in on both Sides often Show the difference wearing . This will be found a safe way , and saves twisting and turning the goods about ,

n and , after all , often getting a portio wrong . The fronts ar e n o w ready fo r basting : prepare each portion in

o f the same manner . Always prepare the corresponding portions a waist before you begin t o baste .

S E 2 as n h n n o h M a a . CTION . B ti g t e Li i g t t e teri l

o n e o n Take of the front portion s $lining and goods) , place board

is o n in the usual position ; that , lining upper side , with neck and

2 6

a n d shoulder toward the right hand . Have the side seam , arm Size , o f R shoulder lining and goods laid evenly together . un a basting

o f t o across the top darts from fron t to arm Size . Commence at p of

o n front darts , and baste down the traced line of dart , nearest the

. v I front Ha e bastings inch in length on upper or lining side .

o n Take up j ust enough cloth under side to hold lining to goods .

o u is As y baste , wrinkle the lining ; that , puff lining under each inch o f o r h thread basting j ust a little , aving the wrinkles a little fuller

- S all t o as you near the waist line . lightly full the way the bottom

o r o f over the hips . When finished , the material under pieces your

o ut o f work Should come 3 an inch below the lining . Wrinkle each R traced line in the same way . un a basting across the tracing at

- D o f waist line . rop the Shoulder lining I of inch below the shoul o f der material , baste the same also around the arm size , taking in

o f n D O the extra fulness li ing , which will be very little . not baste the lining t o the goods down the centre front seam I ior around the

R un o n c o r neck . the basting thread evenly the tracings . When r e c tl h y basted , the lining s ould be evenly but slightly puffed , not enough that plaits will form in the seams when stitched together, but so that all fulness o f lining will stretch o ut on seams in basting

the waist together .

S ee D ia r a m N o i$ $ . g .

N O T E .

S I Prepare each portion by ection , and baste each portion by 2 S ection .

R UL E I o r o f . Baste from the top upper part waist portions

o r o r is o f down ; and the neck arm size , whatever the upper end

portion s , Should invariably lay toward the right hand , with lining up .

This is the correct position fo r basting the lining to the material . D O n o t . twist your basting , but run straight down the tracings N otice the way in which the needle is placed into the work in tak

ing each stitch .

S E 3 b s . CTION . To aste the Wai t togeth er

Baste the front dart from the top down , very slightly stretching f o . the back ; that is , the further line tracing from the front H old

m the bastings exactly together, run fine stitches , aking a triple

n basting through the double tracing . A other way is to baste the

- u o r darts from the waist line p . In basting the back French dart

do w n r f slightly stretch w a r d the back o bias side o the seam . 2 7

S E 4 To b s n CTION . a te the Fro t Sid e Fo rm to th e

Fro n t .

- - o f Commence at the waist line , fasten the waist line the front

- o f securel y to the waist line the side seam , and baste up , keepin g tracings of the portion exactly together , and having both pieces to o ut come even at the arm size . This is a rule which should be it closely observed , because a waist is likely to twist not basted to

- m o ut I t gether so that waist lines eet an d the ends come even . can

n be easily done by usi g a little precaution when j oining the seams .

CA T I O N — Th e is w U side held next to you al ays inclined to pucker .

TO avoid this , keep it even with th e side from you . Make close , fi ne

in stitches , and have the end of the seam view from the time the

s h fir t stitch is taken until the seam is fi nished . T en baste the hips

- v er s /z /z l / A o f from the waist line down , y g b fulling $ ) the line front

o u A . s o portion . This is important By doing , y will avoid having wrinkles at the waist - line O f front side form by stretching that piece of the waist .

ee ia r Fi /i r e A S D g a m g .

N O T E .

It is hoped that the pupil will not exaggerate this slight fulling

o f . R e and stretching , and by so doing get the waist out shape

it s /z /i f/ member that means only g y stretched and fulled .

5 S E C To b a s h a o o h . TION . te t e B ck F rm t get er

Fasten securely the waist - line o f the two pieces together at

t o . R centre back un fi ne basting up neck , having the seams to

t o n come out even at the p . I n basti g , always keep seams even on the surface ; that is , pull the seams a little tight , and smooth out

S O each needleful of stitches as you go along , that basting will not

in O o f pucker the seams the least . n the right side waist the work Should simply show the line , but not a stitch which has been taken . 2 8

S E 6 b s CTION . To a te the Side Back Form t o the

Back Form .

- Y o u t h e Begin in the usual way at the waist line . will find this

f o f most di ficult seam a basque to baste correctly , but by closely following rule in section o n basting waist together it can b e

r e accomplished successfully . As a further precaution , I will peat

s e the directions . After having fastened the back and Side form

c u rely together at the w a is i - lin e $marked o n the back form o f

D m . t o ar m iagra I ) baste from this point up Size , holding tracings

o f and bastings together . Have both sides the seam even , and S watch the end of the seam all the time you are ewing . There

o n must be no full places either side of the seam , and i t should I f come out even at the arm size . it will help any , you may fasten t w o the waist lines together , pin the seam at the top evenly and in

- or three places below . Then baste from the waist line up , and from

- o f the waist line to bottom basque .

- r If basque is cut with a double under arm form for a large figu e , baste the extra Side piece t o the fron t Side form by S ection 4 o f thi s

a s e e r ch pter $ ule for basting the front side form) .

- S E To b U n r . CTION 7 . aste the de arm Seam

- o n Commence at the waist line . Baste the tracing to the arm

n size , having the ends come out even . Then comme ce at the waist O line , and baste over the hips , very slightly fulling the portion f A I t front marked $below the hips only) . being gored more than

t o e the side to which it is be j oi n d , it is likely to stretch , while

- t h e we wish to keep perfectly smooth , especially at the waist line ,

- f A ar m . O under forms f course , the di ference in holding , in closing

this part of the seam , Should be the merest trifle . Perhaps in bast

o f ing the hips a Short basque , that portion of the line which is

f t o lettered should be held about $3 o an inch fuller tha n the side be which it is to sewed .

To b a ste the Shoulder Seam .

S o f B is lightly stretch fron t Shoulder into the back . If there the

c o n w least extra loth this part of the seam , hich comes from drawing

o n it tightly , have the surplus come out at the arm size both shoul r de seams . 2 9

E V xcept for very large busts , take up a small in the lining at the

top of the darts , having the seams come next to the outside material . l S ee m ode .

8 b . S E CTION . To aste the Sleeve

l u If the outside is arge , and cut in one piece , first baste the o tside s o n eam of lining together, having the seams come the wrong side

f S o f o . the lining titch the same , and baste a bias piece canvas or

heavy crinoline , about 3 inches in width , across the wrong side of

o n the sleeve lining at the wrist . Then baste the outside material s moothly $to elbow) , havin g the finished side of lining so that it will c ome next to the arm , with the seam and canvas next to the

m o f o ut material . Also baste fro the elbow up , folding the fulness

in s ide on lining . Then baste the inside seam of the Sleeve from the elbow down to wrist and from the elbow up to arm size , turn s full leeve . In finishing , gather or plait the outside material to the

I f ar m lining . the lining is full for size , gather it on the upper por t ion , and baste to outside . The inside seam of a sleeve should be

s o n o t basted that it will twist on the arm .

s ee in If gathered at the elbow , that the gathers come j ust the right place a little below the elbow , so that the sleeve will feel com

r t l o n th e fo ab e when arm .

T N O E .

s e w When making other styles of sleeves , the material and lining together , and do not baste the bias grass cloth to lining until the sleeves are stitched .

Your attention is especially directed to the illustrations . Please

in bear mind that these are made from actual work . The gown hav f ing been photographed at di ferent stages of the making , the striped silk and wool material was adopted to show the grain of the cloth

m Th e and to ore clearly illustrate the lessons in cuttin g . style c n is hose a neat and dressy toilette for almost any occasion . There 6 I were used , in making this dress , % yards of goods , i yards of silk , and I dozen yards of narrow braid ; and I assure you that we had

o f was n o t an abundance material . Of course there a great quan tity left over ; but there was sufficient for a gown for a lady measuring

2 ~ in 44 inches bust , with skirt 4 é inches len g th and 5% yards around the bottom . D I AGRAM I V .

Showi n g t h e sl e e ve li n ing r e ady for t h e full outsi de . 3 1

S U M M A RY .

The traci n gs and bastings which secure the lining to the outside

a materi l , and bastings which j oin the waist , should all meet in one li n e when the waist is ready to try on .

s t r a i /z z o n In basting , run all threads g the tracings .

Watch both sides of the seam in working .

w w a r d S lightly stretch do n the bias side of the French dart .

Cut as directed , and , following the instructions given on the dia

n grams , have the fron t edge of every portio toward a straight grain o f the cloth .

Always have corresponding portions of the waist exactly alike . O D o not work in a careless man ner . ne must practise being precise in every detail of the work .

- h o f l Baste hips from the waist line , sligh tly fulling t at portion ine A marked . f o The desired e fect in basting is to have the work smo th , except

f o n o f the pu fed lining , which must not form fine plaits the seams lin ing when basted together . w D o not pucker the side held next to you in se ing .

The right side of a basque , when properly basted , should not be drawn in the least . Observe carefully the section fo r basting the di fficult round seam

’ f n u o . back Whe basting the lining to the outside , yo r work should o r w ill lie in such a way that the neck , whatever is the upper end , be turned toward the right hand .

O f h be Always have the bulk the work in your lap , wit seam only

n n twee thumb and forefinger of the left ha d .

- In j oining the seams , fasten the waist lines securely together , an d

u ar m o r . baste p to size neck All portions , when fi nished , should come out even .

in In basting the lining to goods , there should be a very slight

- h crease of the fulness at the waist line . Take up very little clot on

I h o n the under side , making the stitches inch in lengt the lining , which is the upper Side in basting a basque .

'

Allow seams the usual width . Baste by rules for basting . Try

all - the waist on , and stitch but shoulder and under arm seams .

is When you are sure that your basque right , finish stitching, and proceed in the ordinary manner to fin ish . N otice the mark on arm size of waist , at which the fron t seam of o sleeve should g . 3 2

Baste the sleeve from the elbow line t o top and from elbow to

o f wrist , gathering the outside seam upper portion below elbow .

I n basting , fasten securely the ends of thread , to keep the work in place .

N O T E .

Bear in mind that w a is Z - line to w a is t - line means j ust what it

- - b e s ecur e reads . The waist line of a portion must fastened ly and

t h e - exactly to waist line of the portion to which it is to be j oined , and the cross o n fron t o f lining must meet in marking fo r b o o k s and o f eyes . The least carelessness in doing this part the work will cause the waist to twist , which you will find almost impossible to i remedy after the bast ngs have been taken out .

34

o r T/z er e have your alteration make a patched broken line . m ay be l ‘ s o m e n n es s . r on z f under the arm at the arm size If so , take up the f

- ar m o u under seam as y did others , slanting to the original line . If

la r e T/z e o l$ . n e m a be the waist is g or small , change on this seam y a little large . If so , baste in on the shoulder , beginning at about the

o f t h e on middle shoulder the seam , and take in the desired quantity at the neck .

t h e t o o o ut n o t o u If neck is high , trim a little , but as much as y

n thi k is really needed , because the goods may ravel . If it still

o r n binds , clip in three four places on each side of the eck , leaving

o n fo r r the frayed edges until you are ready to finish off the colla .

o ff Trim a little around the front arm size if necessary ; and , if it still binds the arm , make small clippings .

ar e o ut u If the darts high , lower them a little by letting the sho l o r th e der seam by sewing about inch from top of darts , but do n o t I n all change the shape . making alteration , e ndeavor to pre serve the original curves . If there is too much fulness from the tops o f the darts to the

m shoulder , take up on the front shoulder sea . If also full at the back , take up on the seam both back an d fron t . Then trim

— t an d o ff the seams a little , that is , even hem , cut dart seams $not

o n S e e S I fo r o n close) . Try the waist again . $ ection , putting

is o f the waist . ) If it right , stitch from the upper end seam

o n S down a perfectly straight line the correct basting . titch all

- o n O n seams except the fron t under arm each side . Leave these pe

o u until y have tried the waist on again .

A S the basque is a little smaller after it has been stitched , if nec essary , let the side seam out a trifle parallel with the basting by

f o n I f running a second basting about O an inch from first e . all

o ff right , stitch this seam . In taking the waist , as you take each pin

o f out of the fron t , place it back in the same mark on the righ t side

fo r the lining as a guide the fastening .

I f o ff r un mmediately a ter the waist is taken , a basting along t he

o f o n - line pins and the opposite side along pin holes . Then turn the

t o l fronts in , having the distance from the first dart the ine of bast

fo r is o n ing centre fron t $which button space) the same both sides ,

o f with the thread on the edges the front . When fin ished , these

b o o k s bastings should meet down the fron t with or button s , equal

n distance o either side from fron t darts to centre fron t .

S ee D ia r a m g V . t o I would advise the pupil keep in min d a perfect figure , and not 3 5

D I AGRA M V .

S n th e b e e r Th e l e th e l e n e howi g waist ast d tog th e . in s gthwis

re t h e d th ad of goo s .

$ e n o n th e ur e e t h e r t h e l e e r e r h n pin ing fig , hav c oss on in of c nt f ont to m ee th e t cross on opposite side .

e d m on l n Str tch front part of Shou l e r se a y in joini g . 36 in v fo r u any case to gi e up your model the figure yo have in hand , t o O but make the same perfect and tapering lines for every one . f

o f course , you must have broader space between the seams a large

rin c i le than a small basque , but never change your p p of cutting and fitting ; namely , darts and back form seams tapering toward the

- cen t r e of waist line back and front .

I f - necessary , make larger under arm pieces ; and for large figures , add the extra Side form .

e fo r The prevailing fashions seem to be inv nted slender figures ,

n and dressmakers are , therefore , giving special attentio to the fash

io n in o f - g apparel for stout , short waisted persons . It will be well for the you n g dressmaker to bear in mind that her

- - success lies in making short waisted women appear longer waisted , m u in aking very full fig res look as slim as possible , and , in fact , to

is make shapeless people appear shapely . It certainly in the power o f t o fo r the fashioner do this ; , by selecting suitable materials ,

w of an d colors , and designs , ith a correct knowledge fitting trim ming a gown , the reigning style may be retained , and yet rendered

all becoming to figures .

T N O E .

o D o Fit the waist snugly across the back from armpit t armpit . n o t make the basque narrow across the shoulders , but have it fitted ffi su ciently tight to hold them well back and the figure erect . This ,

- with seams tapering toward the centre back and front at waist line , gives the much desired effect , really beautifying a shapeless figure .

Fitti n g the Sleeve .

m . Try the sleeve on , stitch the sea s , and pin into the arm size

Having it fitted comfortably on the arm , pin the front seam to I o f . n basque . Also pin the back seam the sleeve to the basque

s e e putting in the Sleeve , you can whether or not the waist is too full

o f a r m I f S O o ff at back size . , trim j ust a little , and again pin the back seam of sleeve to the waist .

e Befor taking out the sleeve , mark the place where the front and

n t o back seams come on the arm size ; and , whe finished and ready

s e w e . in , baste in the sleeve , with the seams coming to th se marks

ut t h e . Take all bastings o of seams of the waist Trim the darts , 3 7

D I AGRA M V I .

S w t h e l e e e w t h e ull u e b e d th e e d l . ho ing s v , ith f o tsid ast to fitt ining

$ e l e l e e e e b un ew e r u de b ut u t h e h n sty of s v s chang s y patt n of o tsi , c t i r b th e d r e e l u th e e l . po tions y i ctions giv n , a ways sing fitt d nings

N otic e t h e w ay in which t h e grain of t h e cloth is cut . 3 8

allowing a inch seam . Cut centre back and round seams the same

I - ll . S c a o size Allow inch on shoulders and each under arm seam . p

o n - o r seams the waist line , and in two three places above and one

o 1 1 place below , ab ut } inches apart .

S ee D ia r a m V I I g .

v When fi nishing the waist and slee e around the arm size , the

o ff frayed edge should be trimmed until perfectly even , and the w seam , hich will be quite thick , held closely together and carefully

o ff w n s e . overcasted , clipping all ends as you , making a eat finish

E o u t o ven should y wish to bind the seam , it will be well first over cast it .

S U M M A RY .

u a fi t T rn all seams $except the back bias) tow rd the front , when ting the waist . Fasten the waist o n the person as tight and smoothly as possible

t o before attempting make any changes .

o ut Always fit right side .

Be sure to smooth the waist well in at back , and take out all wrinkles , especially over the hips . s e w In making changes , from the original line , as though it had not been altered . N o r ever make a broken patched line .

, Let all alterations be either a straight or a curved line beginning, o n and running from the original seam , as though it had not been changed . s o D o n o t make the waist tight as to change the lines .

- The darts should come quite near the fron t at the waist line . Have the bastings marking for hooks and eyes meet at the centre front . Have the distance from the front dart to the centre front the same o n both sides .

S titch the waist from the top down on all seams .

at When stitching the darts , commence the top , and run on the

o f o r very edge the cloth for three four stitches , to avoid having points .

When fitting , pull the waist up at the neck and over the bust .

D w - raw it in closely to the figure at the aist line at back , and pin ev e n ly from the neck down the centre fron t .

- If the waist is too tight , change it on the front under arm seam . 39

D o n ot try to let it out on the centre fron t , and so give th e figure that flat appearance which is so undesirable .

Fit the basque snugly across the back from armpit to armpit . f Allow su ficient width across the bust , and fit it closely around the n eck an d over the shoulders . In finishing , leave the neck quite an d high $not enough to wrinkle) , set the collar a little below the neck of the waist . 4O

D I V AGRAM I I .

S w t h e w r e e d r e d r n d n ho ing aist p ss a y fo b i i g .

4 2

fi c ie n t h quantity to turn wit out drawing the waist in the least) , then run the binding down on the other side of the seam in the same way

o f to within an inch of the bottom the waist . s Bind the seam , stretching the edges and carefully binding around

s o n the scallops , that the seam will lay perfectly flat whe finished .

o f In binding the round seam , stretch the side seam belonging to the

— centre back , that is , the part turning toward the centre , and bind

n o t b ut w ill loosely , so that the seam will draw , lie smoothly from the e n d of arm size down to of basque . The other side the round seam is full , and so may be easily bound . Bind the back seam o f shoulder o n the s /i or t ends as well as on

s o edges , as not to leave unfinished ends on the neck and at the arm

Size . Bind the front part of the shoulder seam on the edge only .

T im t bot o o is - o t r /i e t m f t/z e w a t before sewing on the bone casing .

o n Pin the waist together the front at the bottom , pin also together

O the corresponding seams on pposite sides at the bottom , and cut the waist the desired shape and length .

S E 3 n n n - n . o h o e as CTION Putti g t e B c i g .

o f Lay the casing over the centre seam , allowing the end of same

t o o n to come an inch above the tops of darts . Begin sew at the top o f all darts , and wrinkle the way down , having the casing exactly on

f O m 2 the centre o the seam . n a mediu size basque begin inches from

t o - the arm size sew casing on the under arm seam , 4 inches from the

o n o n arm size the round back seam , and 7 inches from the neck the

n centre back seam . Wrinkle to the bottom , smooth out each eedle

o u h ful of finished work as y go along , so t at , when bones are sprung in , the stitches will not break .

e ia r a m I I $ S e D g V .

4 E S E H a n d . CTION . To m ark for ooks yes

Baste the edges of fron t line together from t h e neck to bottom of

h n I waist , having the ends even . Mark wit basti gs about inch apart ' o n O o n e on e side : mark the other side by that . $Have marks pposite ut o f . o another on the sides front ) Take the first basting thread ,

o n e that is , the holding the fronts together, and your waist is ready

s e n o n r . e o e fo fastenings In sewing on the same , that each comes these marks .

If buttons are to be used , the buttonholes should come opposite 43

D I AGRAM V I I I .

S t h e w b u w w r howing aist o nd , and ith casing on , ith thin canvas o

— h n f m grass cloth around t e i side O b otto . 44

r o n o n the ma ks one side , and the other side the buttons sewed on

2 o ut . the marks , with inches left for a fly

ee D ia r a m LY S g .

S M M RY U A .

The seams should lie perfectly flat w he n t r immed and Open for

~ ~ pressing . Trim the three back seams é inch in width , scallop at

- waist line , and two place above and one below , about an inch apart . Clip the dart seams s o that they will lie flat and smooth o n the

- . r waist Press f om the neck to the waist lin e , then turn the waist ,

- and press from the bottom to waist line . S hape the basque o n edge at the bottom before sewing on bone casing .

K o f D o eep the casing exactly over the centre the seam . not

- S O draw your work . The binding and bone casing should be put on

t o o f in as not affect the outside the waist the least . Looking at the

o f o u n o t outside the basque when finished , y ought to perceive that a stitch had been taken on the inside .

C o f A UT ION . Press carefully and smoothly every part the work

“ o u s o - as y are doing it . Nothing makes a dress look home made

o f o u h as lack pressing . When y press a seam , make it as smoot

y o u o n and flat as possibly can . Never have the goods to Shine the O r o n right side . f course the e are a few exceptions in working

D O n o r silk and some other materials . not press as much with as

o u hot an iron as y would in making a heavy cloth gown , but press f w ll all work su ficien tly e to make seams lay smooth .

- Press the darts from the bottom up , the under arm seams from

t o - the arm size waist line , and the centre back seam from the neck t to wais line .

n o t Press the round seam very carefully , and do change the shape of curve .

o f When pressing the darts , do not let the point the iron strike

s o t h e the upper end as to change bust curves , but make this part o f the waist t o look as nearly as possible like o n e piece o f cloth drawn smoothly , but not tightly , over bust .

o n o t o When sewing the binding . h ld the material next you , and bind the seams around the scallops loosely , smoothing out each nee dle ful o f w finished work as you s e .

- cen tr e I n sewing on the bone casing , place it over the of the f r o . seam , and w inkle it all the way to the bottom waist 4 5

S E 5 To a uE x a M a a o n h o n . CTION . pl it p tr teri l t e Fr t

fo r a After marking hooks and eyes , lay in fin e plaits the extr cloth left out on the front . The plaits should be not more than of

- an inch in size from the bottom , at the waist line , an d for some dis

- t tance above waist line . Having firs plait laid j ust a trifle over the edge of lining , make them to gradually broaden up to the bust .

m $Make four plaits on each Side , if goods are mediu weight , or , if

o n very heavy material , have less cloth allowed the front . Make o o r nly two three plaits . ) Take up all the extra cloth on both

n o t sides in this way , using care to make the outside fuller or tighter than the lininug . Baste firmly over , stitch plaits nearly to the bust line , leave , pper fulness to be g athered or made into broader plaits . At the neck the goods should be brought smoothly

ut S e e up from the stitching and even with the lining , b not drawn . that the cloth is all brought over smoothly from arm size and th e neck , as if front of basque were plain , having fulness in centre

n o f fron t only . This is a neat finish , covering the faste ing hooks w and eyes . This front may be trimmed in any man ner desired , ith

o r o r lace velvet revers bands of ribbon .

S E 6 n n CTION . To m ake a Diago al Fro t without Se am

in Ce n tre .

o f Turn the right side goods back , having the folded edge even

h n o f b e wit the ce tre front the lining . Pin in place and shape off , ginning at the bottom of waist at the fron t or first dart , cuttin g the front broader as you near the shoulder .

Trim out the n eck a little higher than lining . Cut the shoulder

s o w . a little high , it will j ust meet the seam hen finished After

n w basting inside a piece of thi canvas or other stiffening , hich Should reach almost to the first dart on right side and to the j unc tion of the shoulder an d neck on same side , face by basting silk on

o the right material side , and stitching close to edge , an d turn ver O s e w and finish . r , before putting on silk facing , baste edge over , d t o an d own canvas , and then baste the silk on , hem on the outer f edge . Baste and stitch the left side o the front even with the lining . 46

D I I X AGRAM .

S w t h e r n m r e d r an d e e an d b e d ho ing f o t a k fo hooks y s , thin canvas ast to

n n li i g at t h e b otto m of waist . 47

N O T E .

o u If y have decided upon a diagonal front , when you are cutting the waist , shape the right side , and baste in canvas lining before

n s e w seamin g the front darts , having the lini g to in with the dart . For very stout figures it is sometimes necessary to have a seam through the centre front , curving over the bust . Fasten the waist o n o n the person after sewing the hooks or buttons lining , and pin the side fastened to waist smoothly over to the left , and mark for hooks while the waist is o n the figure . The front may be trimmed with box plaits abou t 2 or 2 % in ches in

n width , begin ing at shoulder and gradually tapering as you near the

- o f n waist line , or with tiny folds silk , passeme terie , or other material .

E a r n t V S CTION 7 . To m ke a F o t with Plai ed e st

a n d R evers .

fo r A pretty mode , especially stout people , is to plait a contrasting

Shade of Silk through the centre . Plait the silk as described in S e c S tion 5 . hape the revers from the extra goods left on the fron t , making them n arrow at the waist and gradually broadening to the desired width at the top . Put in a l ining of stiff canvas , the grain running the same as the cloth , and reaching back nearly to the first N dart and to the j unction of the shoulder and neck at the top . ow face your revers with silk or velvet , and turn them toward the centre , and fasten on the outside from the j unction of the neck and shoul

o f der and tapering toward the centre front , barely showing the four o f little plaits the vest at the bottom . Turn the revers back , and O the basque is ready for facing . r the revers may be cut separately of Silk or velvet , shaped as described above , and the unfi nished edge

S t o stitched . titch them the basque , beginning at the j unction of the neck and shoulder and tapering almost to a point at the cen tre

R o r v front of bottom of waist . evers may be made of silk elvet , and the edges decorated in any way desired .

ee D ia r a m X S g . 48

D IAGRAM X .

S w t h e r e e r w n t f e n n b e o n de re r ho ing v s , ith ca vas s i f i g ast d insi ady fo t h e silk facing .

50

D I AGRAM X I .

S t h e u de w r e e a n d b u d w u e r howing o tsi of aist p ss d o n , ith o t facing b e d o n ast . 5 1

the waist , having half the loop of the eye to come out beyond the

o u edge , or y can hem tape along both sides of the front to cover the sewing .

S 3 n in o n E CTION . Putti g the B es

S lip bones in every seam or casing , then hem up the upper edge o f n the faci g , spring the bones in to the waist as tightly as possible ,

- and turn the end of bone casing over the bone , fasten , and then sew

m o f on both sides firmly to the sea s the waist .

in To p ut the Belt .

s e w Find the centre of the belt , to the centre back seam of basque ,

o n - n having the lower edge of belt to come the waist line . Faste with

a S e w buttonhole twist , m king some kind of a pretty stitch . again

o n on the side seams or the next seam to the round e . Have the

Space of belt between the fastening loose .

To prepare the neck of waist for the collar , trim the neck evenly ,

a o f bind with a n rrow piece bias Silk .

S E 4 fi n e . CTION . To ish th e Sl eve

S k o ut titch , ta e bastings , overcast and press the seams . Baste

o f 2 . into the wrist a bias piece thin canvas , inches in width If sleeves are closed at the hand , simply baste the bias Silk facing on the outside of sleeve . Beginn ing at the back seam , stitch at the edge , turn up and hem , making an even edge in turning .

O If the sleeves are pen at the wrist , baste the silk facing on the O outside around the pening , cut it off the size of the sleeve , baste facing down the Sides of the Open ing o n a straight line with stitched seam , stitch facing on the edge , t urning corners neatly , and stitch

o r . up to the seam end of the opening . Trim , making an even edge

n o n e To tur a square corner , cut off the point , and fold side of the corner over the other , turn facing to the inside , and hem to the lin in g .

E 5 To n n . S CTION . p lait th e Full O utside to the Li i g

First baste the material to the lining on the a n der portion of

o f sleeve from front seam to back . Then fi nd the centre the remain ing quantity of material , mark , and , if a box plait is desired , have 5 2

fo r o f fo r t o this the centre the same , measuring 3 inches , the p of

o n o f b o x t o the sleeve . Then plait up goods each side plait

o f o f l within an inch the front seam s eeve , having the same number

o f o n . plaits either side , and baste securely to lining Care should

s e e do n o t o n e be taken to that the plaits slip , but have every the i Same S ze when the sleeve is basted into the waist .

S C 6 To sh h Goo s . E TION . irr t e d

o n i fo r Baste the material to the lining under port on of sleeve , as f plaiting , and gather , begin ning a little distance from the ron t seam , and s e w around t o the back seam . Put in as many rows of sewing

o u n t i t o of h as t e as y desire , the draw p the size lining , to same , and the sleeve is ready to sew into the basque .

S . E CTION 7 . To make Puffed Sleeve

Cut the puff the length and Size desired . Tack the inside seam to

th e o f . inside seam the sleeve Gather about 2 inch from edge , and

t o baste the Sleeve $first making a fitted sleeve , with material to

o f o n form a deep cuff) , having the greatest quantity fulness the

o n upper side of the Sleeve , with very Slight gathers the under side .

an d t o . Turn , gather to the lining at the p If for a double puff , make t o the goods longer , and gather through the cen tre of puff the sleeve lining .

To fi n i s h the T o p o f Sleev e .

o r Gather , shirr , plait the full outside to the lining ; and , if the lin

O II ing is fuller than the arm size , gather that slightly the upper por tion before basting the outside material to it .

S 8 To s n o a s . E CTION . ew Sleeve i t W i t

o n r o ut . Try the waist , and t im the arm size , if necessary Put the

o n r o f sleeve the arm comfo tably , pin inside seam the sleeve to the

‘ f o f front o the arm size . The front seam Sleeve usually comes

2 - r it about inches front of the first under a m seam , but depends upon the cut of the waist . Pin outside seam of Sleeve to the arm n I f t h e o . Size at back . Baste into the waist , try sleeves are righ t , o r stitch them into waist . Trim the seams , overcast bind with

- taffeta . Put the sleeve protectors in . 53

S E 9 uin - t r . CTION . To p Sleeve p otecto rs

e w S e w S the protectors in under the arm toward the fron t .

o f t w o only on the points protector , and have it loose . Fasten in

o n places the seams of the basque , being careful not to have the

w o n shields to dra the waist in the least . Then sew shields the

edge to the inside of the sleeve .

S E 1 0 n C . To a a a o a CTION m ke Pl i ll r .

‘ n Cut fror collar canvas the desired Shape an d width , have the

collar a little larger than the natural size of the neck . Baste on the

o f outside a piece Silesia , then baste on the material $which should

o n h be cut the bias , with a seam throug the centre) . C ut the si l - esia and material larger than the canvas , cat stitch the upper and

o n lower edges to collar canvas the inside , have the outside a s ilk . , , smooth Baste flat on _ lining Shape to the collar hem lining o n u the pper and lower edges , leaving the ends open .

To s ew the Collar to Wai st .

n n o f If collar is to be faste ed at the fro t , find the centre collar,

o f S e w and place to centre back seam the waist . the collar well

over the binding , an d stretch very slightly the neck of basque as

n w . t o s e you sew on Turn in the unfi nished ends sla ting at the p ,

on small hook and eye , and hem down the Silk lining on the ends .

S 11 I f C b e n E . o a s o fas a h a CTION ll r i t te ed t t e B ck .

t o o f Find the centre fron t of the same , sew the centre front the

o f waist on the right side , stretching the n eck dress a little . Leave

b o o k b o o k s the left side to at the back , fi nish ends , first sewing in

and eyes .

S e e directions for making fancy collar in another section .

n To p rep are E dges for Stitchi g .

. o n As a finish for revers , bottom of waist and Sleeves Baste ,

n s o stitch , and tuur the facing as to form a perfectly even edge . Turn good sq are corners , finish and press the edges which are to

o n e o r . be stitched , and run two rows evenly on the same 54

S E CTION To face R evers a n d Collars of Cloth

s n Dre ses with Silk or Sati .

w Face with the material of hich the gown is made , fi nish an d press in the usual way , stitch the edge , press again , and shape the

- silk to the revers on the outside , then turn the Silk , and blind sew

t o carefully the revers , leaving a margin of the cloth .

d o f o r Bone the art at the centre a pointed belt girdle .

Bone each Side of the fastenings at centre fron t .

To Make a Crus h Collar .

Make the collar by rule for plain collar , cut a bias piece of Silk or velvet the width desired , fin d the centre of same and fasten to the

' bas t e t o centre front of the collar , the canvas on upper and lower

o r edge , fold into three four plaits the full material , and gather in the ends and finish in any way desired . CHA PTE R V

S E I C . Th TION e Skirt .

A S r w ill for the ski t , general rules that cover all styles of plain or

n ordi ary skirts are herewith given . It may seem as if a small num

' o f ber directions has been given ; but the aim has been to present ,

o f under the head cutting, basting , making , and hangin g , such gen eral instruction s that o n e cannot be at a loss as to how to cut and

make any kind of a skirt . The rules are perfectly reliable , and will

always bring about a satisfactory result . if followed carefully .

n n n To cut th e Fro t Skirt Li i g . Lay the lining on a table in the same position as for cutting the I I . S e e . S . front basque lin ing Chapter , ection Lay fron t of the

Skirt pattern on the lining, having the centre front of pattern on the

folded edge and bottom of patter n to edge of goods at the left . o ut Cut fron t lining . Notch all portions as they are cut .

2 S E To r s . CTION . cut Side Go e

n o f Have the selvage turned toward the perso , lay the front edge o f the pattern side form toward the selvage . Have the pattern

slant away from the selvage edge at the t o p if directed on pattern .

If not , run it even with lining . Piece the back edge of side gore , if

lining is not wide enough . If it can be avoided , do not piece any of

the portions when cutting the material . f If hair cloth is chosen as a sti fening for the skirt , there is wisdom

u o n e in having it shr nk before making up , as , if should be caught in

a rain , it will surely grow smaller unless it has had this treatment .

'

E 8 a n d . S CTION . To cut th e B ack Back Sid e Fo rm

o f t — w Lay the pattern forms on th e lining , with perfora ion s hich

0 11 o f Should be a straight line , through the centre the pattern , on 56

D I AGRAM X I I .

S w o n e - l t h e r n r n t h e r B r u ho ing ha f f o t po tio of ski t . aste th o gh th e c e n t re en ; , r e t h e m e r a l o n l n b e r m e re n n th st tching at i ini g, ast f o c nt to e d o t h e m botto .

. Th e e re r n e r n o n lde d e d e t h e m e r l c nt f o t of patt a fo g of at ia .

5 8

X D IAGRAM I I I .

A de r e k r w t h e m e r l l e d b w t h e e r Si go of S i t ith at ia fo d ack , sho ing int l n n i i g .

‘ i n a l ro t e dge to b e turn e d toward a s e lvage of th e lining or m ate ri l . 59 o n no account allowing the Side held nearest you t o become fuller in sewing . o f In basting the darts the skirt , care Should be taken to run them gradually to a sharp point , so that , when pressed , it will n ot Show o ff plainly where the seams leave . S Try the Skirt on . titch the seams straight , take out bastings , press and overcast them .

To o vercas t the Skirt .

o r Trim the seams neatly , open them , an d sew on the right side

o n h S lan t Side whic the material is . the stitches , taking up a very

o ff o u little of the seam in sewing, and trim frayed ends as y work .

m Press the seams open straight from the botto up . Press the darts

n o t w o r open , carefully pressing the seams so the points will Sho ,

f - the seams may be bound , if preferred , with ta feta seam binding .

all m Get the centre front of the skirt , then pin the sea s to corre

n in S s p o d g seam on the opposite side . pread the Skirt out on a table , and , if there are points at the seams , trim off j ust a little , although it is not n ecessary to trim off the bottom of a skirt , if cut by a good pattern . The skirt is n ow ready for the inside facing .

S E b CTION 7 . To face the ottom o f the Skirt

f o . Cut a bias facing alpaca , about 5 inches deep $oin the widths ,

- a n d . press them Lay the skirt on lap board . Begin at centre back , and baste the edge of facing smoothly , run ning it even with the bottom of Skirt . Then turn the facing in at the upper edge , an d baste to the skirt without laying plaits . This can be done neatly by making the facing a lit tle full under the stitch as you baste . I would advise you not to lay plaits on the seams , as it is likely to make them pointed at the bottom . Another way to face the Skirt is to cut

s e w in facing by gores of the skirt , together , press , an d baste to the side . H em the facing to skirt lining with strong Silk , making the

S ee o ut stitches very close and firm . Press the facing . that the side material has $ not Slipped away from the bottom edge of the skirt lining in working on it .

S E 8 n V n C . To s o a o TION ew Br id r elvetee .

n l Com mence at ce tre back , and ful the binding slightly , basting on

n o f fi n e very closely with cotto the color the cloth , the basting to be 60 left in after stitching $take the seam su fficiently deep so that the

n o t S h o n o ff goods will fray out) . titc the binding the basting . Trim

t h e any frayed edges which may appear . Then lay skirt on the lap , o u having the lining Side toward y . Turn the binding up , making an

w O f even edge , leaving it to Show j ust belo the bottom the Skirt .

Hem with strong silk , being careful to prevent stitches from show

o f ing on the outside the Skirt ; and in sewing hold the binding ,

i n s s o o t . which a little full , that it will appear puckered In taking

‘ the stitches , draw the braid each time in to place ; that is , draw the binding back to the stitch which was previously made , thus makin g the surface o f the binding perfectly flat and forming an even line of

S r . hemming . hrink b aid before using

S E 9 . To fa h a CTION ce t e Skirt Pl cket . e Make a fly o f the dress goods longer than the opening. Lin with h S e w o f canvas , and face wit the skirt lining . to the seam placket ,

e and face the other Side . Avoid having a poorly finished corn r at

f s o the end o seam . Finish that edges will j oin a contin u ous line

o f from the rest the seam .

1 S E 0 To h an h . CTION . g t e Skirt

o n Measure the centre front , centre back , and all the seams , the desired length , which is generally about even all around , if a walking

S fo r r . Skirt , and the pe son stands erect till , some figures the skirt is made a little longer front than back . However , measure j ust as

o r a n n you did the figure , allowing the skirt of i ch longer than

Plac e o u you wish to have it when finished . pins or marks as y

o ff u an v . measure . Cut the s rplus goods , should there be Make

- o f o f a very narrow waist band a straight piece the dress goods , and line it with the Silesia , having it inch larger than the actual

Size of the waist . Leave the edge unfinished . If the Skirt fastens

o f at the back , get the centre the band , place it to the centre front

o f - of the Skirt $sew only the lining the skirt band , having the seam

o n m to come the outside of skirt) , baste band fro the centre to where

o r fo r you wish the plaits gathers to begin centre back , which should

o f - come into a very small space the belt gathering in the fly . 6 1

S E 1 1 To s a o n a - fas n CTION . ew Belt Side te ed Skirt .

Fit the fron t an d side front gores of the skirt over the hips . S O ff o f titch and press the darts , then , measuring Size belt , gather

o f the back gores . If the Skirt is sewed in to a very small space the

o f o f belt , find the centre the remaining portion , place to th e centre

of k o n the band the s irt the lining side , and baste on either side .

n Turn , stitch , and tur the material over the seam , baste , stitch , and

finish in the ordinary man ner .

o f Try the Skirt on . If it hangs well and is right for size waist ,

o n ‘ t h e n o f stitch the belt , baste the material on outside the band

o f down to stitching , turning under enough the edge to prevent it

o ut from ravellinug . Turn in the ends neatly , and stitch band to Skirt on the pper side . If the top of the skirt is to be faced instead of having a band put o n , baste as directed from the outside , and turn down to the linin g .

r fi n Many dressmake s n ish the Skirts in this way , whe they are very

fi o r fo r close tting about the hips stout ladies . S lip the hook in between the lining and outside , fasten securely

s e w o n with buttonhole twist , the eye the outside of the belt , having the loop edge to come to the seam where the fly is sewed on .

S e w b o o k s e on inside of the band , qual distance from the centre o n either side , to fasten to eyes sewed on the inside belt of waist to prevent the Skirt from drooping at the back . Measure from the belt down the Side seam equal distance o n

t s e w o n either side , mark wi h pins , and elastic the inside of the k S e w skirt to eep the folds in place at the back . in the silk dust

Fo r f o f . ru fle , which adds greatly to the beauty a skirt the pres

n ent style use hair cloth as an inside lining , and sew betwee vel veteen , or braid binding , and skirt flat featherbon e to give the fashionable flare at the bottom .

o f When makin g the Skirts fi ne cotton dresses , measure the hem

s e w . carefully , and by hand

N O T E .

To find the straight or lengthwise thread , measure equal distance from the selvage o n upper and lower ends o f the cloth or lining from which the portion is to be cut .

Be very careful , in basting a bias to a straight edge , not to stretch the gored Side . D I AGRAM X I V .

h n e d w N e th e e b e e th e A Side vi e w O f t e fi ish go n . ot curv of asqu ov r h i f p an d t h e li n e s O b ias dart . 63

S U M M A RY .

v er Be careful to baste the outside material y smooth , almost tight ,

n on the linings of Skirt portions , as it will wri kle and look very bad if n o t properly basted .

n o f o n In basting the outside to lini g Skirt , the material should be the upper side while working .

I n e j oining the skirt portions , have the ends , even on both Sid s of th e seam , at the top or upper end of same . Always cut the front portion with the centre of pattern on a

o f lengthwise fold the lining and material .

Always buy the newest Skirt pattern .

n t o In basting seams , on no accou t allow the side held next you to become fuller than the other .

v Fit skirts easy , not very tight o er the front and Sides and , if the wearer is possessed of prominent abdomen , make a few slight gathers

o r across the front , , after fitting the darts , hold the skirt toward the w person while se ing the top to a narrow binding . A very n arrow

o n e belt or bias cording fits a large waist better than a broader , and gives a longer waist .

In taking up the darts of a skirt , care must be taken to run them

s /z a r s o to a p point , that , when stitched and pressed , it will not Show

w o ff plainly here the seam leaves .

To s e w - on the feather bone , place the finger between the outside

- material and linings , and , holding the feather bone loosely , sew it to

an d the facing , lining , in terlining before sewing on the velveteen or

m o n . braid , allowing for a medium Sea in stitching the latter For stiffening around the bottom edge of Skirts us e the n arrow r bone which comes for this pu pose . It is mounted in the cen tre of

o n a braid that extends beyond the band each side , makin g it easy

s e w to the band to position . This bone is pliable , and will hold the

- skirt as fash ion dictates . Another arrangemen t of bone , which is

n o o f covered , but which has extension cloth like that described , is

Shown ; but I do not recom mend it . The former I have used , and

o n o f find it all that e can desire for the bottom Skirts . For revers and trimming I would recommend the round bone or cord , which can be stitched through the cen tre to the trimming . U s e the greatest care in measuring all seams o f your skirt from

o ff u . the bottom up , trimming the surpl s material before hanging it

- Make the skirt quite long , and have the waist band tight . 64

D o n o t piece the portion s o f gored skirts when made o f double

do s o width material but , whenever it is possible to . , cut the gores o ut O whole , without adding small pieces to finish the bias sides . f

o f o r course , in making some styles Skirts from silk other Single width goods , this cannot always be done ; but , if obliged to piece the S . o f portion , make a straight seam , smoothing it very flat peaking neat seaming reminds me to caution the reader to stitch the seams

— in a s o u of skirt fact , all seams as carefully y would the basque , t o u not allowing the stitching r n in at the lower edge , and so pucker

n n o t the dress at the bottom . In pressi g , make a straigh t line , do

o f pull the seams ; and , in sewing on the braid , stretch the edge skirt v e r y Slightly .

I II r making ski ts of very thin or soft fabrics , the stiffening should

o n be sewed the outside of the percaline lin ing , having the cloth to

e o f o n o r com next to the latter instead the grass hair cloth . S e w S join all bias facings correctly . together the traight edges ,

- - and j oin the cross grain to cross grain .

S e - ome stout p rsons fall in j ust below the waist line . I would advise the pupil to a ffix fo r these a v ery small pad to the back of the

Skirt - band to fill o ut this part of the figure in an imperceptible man

n e r .

Many wo m en complain o f the weight o f the Silesia Skirt lining and heavy interlinings . In the summer , when this is felt , I would

o f h n f suggest using a lining the t in nest percali e ; and , if a stif ening o f o r is o f grass hair cloth used , have it the lightest weight .

N l o r an ever line a ace y thin gauze fabric with anything but silk , and have the Skirt Of such a dress loose from the Silk foundation

Skirt .

f o f u If making a dust ru fle instead b ying that which is prepared ,

n f o f cut silk 4 or 5 inches in width , maki g ru fle the width the skirt

o n e - t o w e O ff and half over allo for gath ring . Trim the selvage , j oin

h e m r o ff the pieces , edges , and ma k into four equal parts . Fasten these marks to the inside o f skirt after it also has been divided into

o f o f - quarters . Measure a needleful twist the length one fourth the w o f s e w ffl do n o t idth skirt , and the ru e to the lining and facing , but

' t o r i h t s ide have the stitches to come through the g .

PRACT I CAL S U GGE S T I O N S .

The devices of fashion are as changeable as the wind ; and , as to the character they will assume for the future , it is never definitely

b e known until the season is upon us . Yet what is prescribed to come conventional undergoes more or less modifications to suit the o f style and purse the wearer . While I realize that I Should run a o great risk in saying what will be fashionable a m nth hence , aside

s ue s from giving standard rules , it may be well to make a few gg tion s concerning the goods and style o f making which is likely to be worn for some time to come . The following notes will at least help the woman o f limited means

t o m who wishes dress well , but cannot afford to ake an entire change in her wardrobe every season .

o n e In choosing the materials for a gown , Should consider several points . These are color , texture , ornamentation , and the occasions on which the dress is to be worn .

For travelling or general wear mohair , or whatever other smooth

n faced material that is stylish and light in weight , will take the fa cy of every lover of comfort and neatness . For handsome winter costumes a very el e gant effect is produced in the combination of fur and velvet used as a trimming o n cloth suits .

- It is bad taste to buy showy , extravagant looking dress for church .

fo r b l n e e e a t , While a costume this purpose may _ g to be appropriate o f for the occasion , its elegance should be a quiet and refined char acter . t o In regard walking dresses , it seems to be almost a rule to make

o r the basque coat quite long .

Fo r dressy evening wear may be mentioned lansdowne , which

m comes in the ost bewitching colors , and is the next desirable mate rial to Silk , besides being considerably cheaper . A good quality can be purchased for per yard . I n fact , I believe there is only one w o 8 o r t . grades manufactured It is 44 inches wide , 7 or yards 67

u . being req ired to make a gown It may be used in combination , a t and makes up exquisitely , giving lustrous effec . Organdies and linen lawns are very pretty and attractive fo r sum

m r d s e resses . When daintiness and prettines are especially to be

o r . desired , muslin tulle is the material to be chosen For a ligh t weight dressy costume n othing excels the summer

Silk . S haggy goods have been and still are im mensely popular for fall d ’ and winter gowns , but they are the slen er woman s delight , and she

n alone may revel i them in the Shape of entire costumes . Aside from the fabrics mentioned in the introduction of this guide

there are Shown many plain , tiny striped , and corded goods which makes very rich dresses for stout ladies . These may be associated with trimmings of a contrasting but suitable material , and will look h very handsome w en completed .

A S to the sleeve , peo ple of moderate taste will still cling to the plain

uo n e . reasonably f ll This appears to be the favorite style , though that which sho w s a ‘ ful n e s s abov e the elbow ending in a deep cuff has f an equally graceful e fect , and is especially suited to the young woman .

The draped Sleeve is also occasionally Seen , but it requires the touch of a skilled fashioner to make it as it should be . S leeves of evening dresses many have ruffles of fine lace or p uffs of any thin fabric . The round waist $one pieced back) is certainly not adapted to Short e waisted persons , and many ladies think that they ought to be vot d out , although the basque may be cut so exceedingly Short over the h ips and terminate in such small points back and front that it will closely resemble the waist .

ir t w n S k ts should be fi ted to the earer whe basted , and again when ready for the bindin g . R evers , long and narrow or Short and broad , according to the

m height and size of the one who is to wear the , are generally fashion able . The dressmaker o f t o day does not hesitate to combine what a t

r u S h e first sight seems the most incong ous colors and fabrics but , if

s o o n has correct ideas as to the blending of shades an d , the com

n bination is sure to meet the favor of the fashionable woma . Pr a c t ic a l S ug g es t io n s t o Yo un g k D r es s m a e rs .

D O r ufll e s t o not make the mistake of gathering , the p of sleeves ,

o f or any part the work , too near the edge . I n gathering any part t o be sewed to a plain portion; leave a dee p heading and make fine stitches , using buttonhole twist .

By observing the above directions , you will find it easy to regulate

f t o the gathers , and will have su ficient cloth hold in basting .

I n fact , enough seam Should be allowed in sewing to avoid all

o f o ut chances the work fraying or Slipping when j oining it .

Fo r all finishing on which there is likely to come much strain , use

o r strong silk buttonhole twist , and thereby save your costumes and yourself a great deal of annoyance . Remember that ve ry fine silk is good only for thin work and fine hemming . o f In cutting , have the front edge of every portion the pattern turned toward $n o t n ecessarily parallel with) a selvage or lengthwise thread of the lining and material . Notice the distance of the Slant away from the straight grain at the waist - line o f the basque

e e ia ra m 1 o r w a is t S D g . f . The waist pointed back a n d fron t gives one a tapering appear ance ; and , if a short basque is desired , this is the correct style for

o r - very large Short waisted persons .

Heavy silk o r any goods which is of a firm tex t- ure should be made o n fi t a soft but strong waist lining , and will require more care in

m f ting than aterial O a clinging quality .

An important element in dressmaking is comfort for the wearer . A n arm hole that cuts or a too tight waist will spoil the hand s o m e s t gown . 69

c o ff n In cutting goods whi h are not reversible , cut each le gth

. S ee separately Lay two pieces together . that the flowers or

o n m design each runs the sa e way . Lay your pattern on , and cut ut o .

Cut all portion s of the waist and skirt double .

Cut off the selvage of silk before seaming . Always have the lines or seams of the waist to follow the curves of the figure . A corset is avery good example of how a waist Should look o n the wearer .

u o ut Always fit the basq e right side .

In cutting have the fron t edge of every portion , except back form

o r h of the waist , toward a selvage straig t thread of the lining or goods .

Always , i n basting the material to the lining of a skirt , work from

o n the bottom up the material side . Never have any portion of the lining cut on a different thread o f

n the goods tha the outside material . h N . otice the terms used , and do not confound t em

Facing should be cut on the bias , and basted in smoothly .

Turn perfectly square corners .

All edges should be either straight or an unbroken curve . E ach portion of the lining and material , when cut , should be laid four double . It saves confusion when basting . Remember t hat the sides o f any portion of the gown which ar e

S o most gored are inclined to stretch . , in j oining them to a straight

o f edge , hold the gored side a little full , to make the end the seam

n n eve when fi ished .

Pin seams of skirt together before basting them .

o n lo n In working velvet , baste the seams together with g stitches to have the ends of seam even . Then baste the work very care fully and closely , as it is likely to slip an d become uneven in Spite of your very best efforts .

In making over dresses , rip , sponge , and press the goods before commencing the garmen t .

Add new linings , if needed .

When making alterations , press out the original seams .

Always use good lining and in side findings . S ilk , velvet , or lace in the form of a vest , revers , cuffs , collar , or other trimming , may be relied upon as a safe and economical decora tion for nearly all cloth or novelty gowns . 7 0

c o s Broadcloth , covert , and serge make handsome tailor style

m e r t ue s . A v lvet collar of a da ker Shade adds greatly to the beauty f and style o such a gown . White o r light vests i nt roduced into dark costumes are effective

o r I f and pretty . The vest may be either plaited plain . plain , it can be overlaid with heavy lace o r passementerie o f an open design

o f u o f but , co rse , the manner and kind trimming must be governed by the prevailing style .

o r - When belts are fashionable , large short waisted person s can have a tw is t o f the t rimmings o f the dre ss or a narrow band o r fold o f

i o r passementer e , ribbon , other trimming , at the bottom of the waist ; bu t it should invariably be pointed in front . Any mode of decora tion for the bottom o f t h e basque which is pointed is more desi rable

o n e is for certain figures than which straight , encircling the waist tightly . n o t t t o o Try to strike a medium in dressing , to devia e far from

s o the dictates of fashion , and yet n ot to be extremely fash ionable as to be dressed unbecomingly and so appear ridicul ous .

s o f o n o f Mo t the sewing cotton dresses , except the stitching r as waist and ski t , should be carefully done by hand , though it were the finest silk gown . S o r m ilk , velvet , or lace , the three co bined , are always suitable trimming for novelties and soft wool fabrics . r di A high collar , flaring away from the neck at the f ont , gives a g n ifi ed e s e c iallv appearance , and is p suited to matron s and elderly ladies .

S titch small feather - bone along the edges o f reve rs between the l o uo f u m t . o tside and lining , to keep them fro fal ing place Have the fulness o n the tops o f sleeves to come over the shoul

n o t t o o n o t t o o . der , far back , near the front Gather fine stitches , w making t o rows of sewing .

Fo r o f e every style waist make a fitted lining , fasten d down the centre front .

To fo r measure skirt length , have an extra tape pinned tightly around the waist , and measure from the tape nearly to the floor .

Measure skirt an inch longer than the actual l e ngth . I will once more caution the reader not to exaggerate the stretch ing or s m oothing of all outsid e material o f the gown over linings .

e r t o You will find it frequently ref r ed in this guide ; and , while it is absolutely necessary to have all outside material an d edges drawn

fi n is h in s tightly over the inside g , the exact amount must be deter mined by the j udgment o f the reader . 7 I Fit waist lining as carefully as though it would Show on the outside . In preparing for comfort in the finishing of the neck of a gown

- for summer wear , I would suggest , especially for the Short throated h woman , t at the collar be cut quite low at the fron t . A full or flat vest , according to the figure of the intended wearer , is generally fashionable .

E t r im m in s uc h b very style of lengthwise g , . as retelles , tapering

r - evers , ribbon , lace , or passementerie bands , and medium Sized taper in g plaits , is becoming to full figures .

Tb e o llo w in s ues t ion s m a n o t be o a t o la ce n f g gg y f p . Make a ote of ’ O o your customer s rder . If she leaves the style f making and trim

o f le t ming her gown to your j udgment , her know j ust how you propose to fashion the garment , and so avoid any possibility of hav it ing to undo the work when is completed . ’ S $ tudy your patron s style , and suggest to her hat you think will

n o t be most becoming , but do expect to have your own way con cerning her work . If she has selected a color or tin t which is not o the correct one for her complexi n , or a plate not adapted to her

it w h at o u figure , and you cannot convince her that is so , do y can to

' make the garment look well on her by making a fevv ' s li‘ gh t changes

18 or addition s in trim ming . This seldom necessary , as most wome n who do not kno w what to w ear will submit themselves to a competent dressmaker . ’ u n o t It is well to cater to yo r customer s wishes , but to her

S w - a whims . Yet a dressmaker hould kno when garmen t is prop erly made , and ought not to suppose that a patron will accept work w less perfectly done than she herself ould wear . Every dressmaker knows the adva ntage to be derived from a good start . To insure this , see that you have all the necessary ma t e r ials u for yo r gown the day before work . Also

tio r i l n t o o u . give specia atte n y bast ng cotton , needles , and so on If you have everything with which to work , it will take but a short time to cut and make the dress . u Make up light or party work as q ickly as possible , and thus run no chance of getting it soiled by handling an d being around the sewing - room a longer time than is absolutely necessary for its com

le t io n p .

If making a number of dresses at the same time , much confusion may be prevented if you will have large pieces of cotton cloth in

o m which to wrap the dresses while y uare working on the . 7 2

A g reat amount of time can be saved if the young dressmaker will have ready simple parts of the work , such as binding of seams ,

S h e overcasting , or hemming , to take up when has a caller during

I t h in k work hours . the average woman is apt to have a greater number of visitors when s h e has planned to do some Special work than at any other time . Endeavor to select a day for cutting when you will have fewest in

uio n s t e rr t . p It matters not how experienced one is , she cannot work successfully if her attention is divided between dress - cut ting and other duties . Every d ressmaker Should provide herself with conveniences fo r doing her work . Have a long table for cutting out work , a small sewing table or board to baste on , a board thickly covered for press

h fo r ing , tracing wheel , and many ot er articles which lack of space are omitted .

’ S D u an o t h e r tudy your ressmaking G ide as you would y lesson ,

t o us e n not only at the time you wish it , but whe you are sitting ’ fo r u down an hour s leis re .

s e w in If possible , always a sun ny room . D O n o t attempt to make a fancy or e laborately trimmed gown until you have mastered the art of completing a good - fi t t in g plain

Y o u but stylish one . will find this a better way and gain a reputa tion as a good dressmaker quicker than if at the beginning of your career you Should try to make a garment which is impossible for R e you to do properly with experience gained in a short time . member that perfection comes through constant practice , and that every one who has attained any degree of success in any line b e gan f with the rudiment o the work . I do not m ean that you shall say to the customer that yo ucannot

s h e make the dress desires ; but , if you have a natural taste for the work , there is a way to secure the patronage of nearly every person

t o n who comes you . By exercising tact you can desig a gown and arrange fo r he r the trimming in such a manner that nine times out of ten s h e will leave her order and trust the m aking entirely to your j udgment ; and you will of course in tur n give her your very best work . ’ D o u o f on t get discouraged , and think y will not make a success the trade because yo usometimes have a patron whom you can not o u please . It may be that neither of y , individually , is at fault ; but there are persons that annoy and fret one another even in business .

D o your work well , never slighting any part , and sew for those whom ,

S h o in n p p g D o e .

Goods purchased best dry- goods and sent

address for the regular price which would be charged at the stores ,

materials and trimmings matched , the greatest care taken to buy

suitable colors for all complexion s and Shades of hair , the strictest

s ' th e economy exercised in buying , and sugge tions given as to mak

o f ing . By availing themselves this offer, ladies can dress elegantly

with little expense . E S E S . M E A S UR E S . M A UR N a m e

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M E A S UR E S . M E A S UR E S . g a m $

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D rau h ed S il esia atterns with full directions g t p ,

for using th em .

S E N D LE N GT H O F $ A I S T

From the c oll ar base to extrem e point of

waist at the back

S IZ E $ AIST AND LENGTH OF $ AIST OF FRONT

Measu ring from the centre back neck a

straight l ine over the shoulders to the ex

r t em e point of w aist at the centre front .

S I Z E O F B U S T .

Measu re aro u nd the l argest part of the figu re .

$ LENGTH OF SLEEV E , SIZ E OF ARM SIZ E AND ELBO .

S E N T 2 Price, and $

A . A . CA S N E A U ,

9 Gre e n w ic h S t reet , Bo s t o n , M a s s .