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The Account of a Journey to Catholic Mission Fields in Japan, Korea

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The Account of a Journey to Catholic Mission Fields in Japan, Korea Orient yiafYktiollGi' Kmwwmxir CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION CHINA AND THE CHINESE THE GIFT OF CHARLES WILLIAM WASON CLASS OF 1876 1918 Cornell University Library BV 3400.W22 Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924022920056 IX THE HEART OF KWANGTUKG On a day's outing^with the Father OBSERVATIONS IN THE ORIENT THE ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY TO CATHOLIC MISSION FIELDS IN JAPAN. KOREA, MANCHURIA. CHINA. INDO-CHINA, AND THE PHILIPPINES By the VERY REVEREND JAMES A. WALSH Superior of Maryknoll « PUBLISHED BY ^ CATHOLIC FOREIGN MISSION SOCIETY OF AMERICA OSSINING :: NEW YORK Vi,(\^10 Arthur J. Scanlan, S. T. D. Censor of Books imprimatur Patrick J. Hayes, D. D. Archbishop of New York Copyright 1919, by the Catholic Foreign Missiok SociBTy Ossining, N. Y. VCo ti}t memor2> of Jotjn Cardinal Jfarlep $nnceoftt)eCtinrc{) jielobeb o{ W floctt l^atron of all gool) taoxki for <@obanti Country jfrienti of tift Mmioni jFatljertojMarpfenoIl tiiie bolnme in affettionatelp tiebicateb. PREFACE Perhaps it is because of my own early experiences as a missioner in China that I fol- lowed with especially keen interest in The Field Afar the series of papers that appeared last year under the title of A Pioneer's Log. In reading these, letters from the Orient it often occurred to me that, if published in book form, they would make a valuable addition to the yet scanty stock of English literature on the vital subject of Foreign Missions; and I am happy to learn that this has now been done. I hope and believe that thousands of Amer- ican Catholics, through these pages, will be brought to a fuller realization of the share which the Catholic body in this great Republic is so evidently called by Divine Providence to take in the evangelization of the heathen world. Today our Holy Father can hardly look else- where than to America if he would replenish the decimated ranks of his Apostolic army and sustain it in its fight against the hosts of Satan. Besides, the Church in the United States must not fail to develop, in its widest expression, the missionary spirit, which is the surest guaranty that its present vigorous life shall be [vii] sustained and strengthened. This volume, the latest fruit of MaryknoU activities, should, therefore, receive a warm welcome and a wide patronage. MaryknoU, the National Seminary for Amer- ican foreign missions, is becoming a household word in the United States. May Observations in the Orient endear it still more to all who have been following its progress and- bring to it, for the great cause of Christ, a <host of loyal friends. [viii] CONTENTS PAGE Preface vii Chapter I From Maryknoll to the Golden Gate 1 Chapter II On the Pacific 16 Chapter III The Island Empire 32 Chapter IV Northward to Nikko and Sendai 47 Chapter V A Tour Through the Dioceses 61 Chapter VI In Korea 82 Chapter VII Through Manchuria to Tientsin 98 Chapter VIII With the Lazarists in Peking and Chengtingfu. 117 Chapter IX Franciscan Hospitality at Hankow 131 Chapter X Up the Yangtze to Shanghai 143 [ix] PAGE Chapter XI A Dip into the Interior ISS Chapter XII Shanghai and Hongkong 175 Chapter XIII A Memorable Christmas 191 Chapter XIV Maryknoll's First Mission 210 Chapter XV Under the American Flag 224 Chapter XVI A Trip to Indo-China 243 Chapter XVII At the Frontier of China 263 Chapter XVIII Where St. Francis Xavier Died 278 Chapter XIX Homeward 294 Chapter XX Some Impressions 308 M . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Opposite Page Frontispiece Maryknoll-on-the-Hudson 2 Maryknoll-at-Scranton '. 6 Mormon Temple. Great Salt Lake 10 Seminary at Menlo Park, San Francisco 14 A Catholic Missioner in the Land of His Adoption. 18 A Japanese Liner. The Palms of Honolulu 22 Navigation on Chinese Waters 28 Yokohama—Its Harbor and a Main Street 32 Archbishop Petrelli in Japan. The Sacred Heart Church at Yokohama 36 At the Jesuit College, Tokyo 40 Brothers of Mary of Tokyo 44 Pagan Priests at Nikko 48 Scenes at Nikko SO Children of Sendal Ancestor Worship 54 At Fukushima '. 62 Some of the Treasures of Japan 64 Veterans in the Service of Their Master 68 The Feast of Corpus Christi in Osaka 74 The Mission at Taikou. Korean Market 82 Cathedral of Seoul. Typical Korean Hut 86 Bishop Mutel with his Little Folks 92 The Benedictine School at Seoul 96 A Street in Mukden. The Cathedral 100 French Nuns at Mukden. In the Compound 104 Seminarians of Mukden. The Station 106 Flood Scenes in Tientsin 110 The Tientsin Compound 114 [xi] LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS—Continued Opposite Page Students OF THE Peitang. Cathedral of Peking 118 The New Government Hospital at Peking 122 Sisters of Charity at Chengtingfu 124 A Chinese Sister. Bishop De Vienne and Seminarians 128 From the Train Window En Route to Hankow 132 Recollections of Hankow 136 The Catholic College in Wuchang 140 Establishment of the Canossian Sisters, Hankow 142 Buddhist Monastery. Missioners of Kiukiang 144 Ruling 146 Views of Shanghai 148 Mr. Lo Pa Hong. In St. Joseph's Hospital 152 The Jesuit Churchat Sicawei 154 The Mission Buildings at Ningpo 156 On the Island of Chusan 160 Through the Chusan Archipelago 164 Haimen—^A Monument to Efficiency 166 Chinese Sisters. Mission Buildings at Taichowfu 168 The Bishop's House at Ningpo 172 A Jesuit Mission Compound 176 The Picnic at Hangchow 180 Views of Hongkong 184 Street in Hongkong. Bp. Pozzoni with His Priests. 188 Custom-House at Canton. The Bund 192 The Canton Cathedral. The Bishop's House 194 A Country Mission. Women Workers of China. 198 The Leper Islands of Sheklung 202 The Heroic Priests of Sheklung 206 Macao 210 At Shiuhing 212 En Route to the Maryknoll Mission 216 [xii] LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS—Continued Opposite Page A Street in Old China 220 A Christian Settlement. A Chinese Houseboat 222 Prelates of Manila 226 Around and About Manila 234 Reminders of the Ages of Faith 240 Traveling in Tongking 244 At the Mission in Haiphong 250 Annamite Priest. Pere Cothonay at Langson 258 Indo-Chinese of Cao-bang 266 French and Spanish Bishops in Tongking 270 Shameen, the Foreign Concession 276 In A Chinese Inn. Chinese River Craft 282 Memorial Chapel AT Sancian. Children of the Mission 284 At Sancian Island with Fr. Thomas 288 Traveling in China 292 At the School of the Canadian Sisters, Canton 296 The Tsu Family of Shanghai 298 Fujiyama. The Inland Sea 304 Maryknoll's First Apostles to China 310 Bishop de Guebriant and His Seminarians at Canton. 314 Map of the Maryknoll Mission in China 318 [xiii] — Observations in the Orient CHAPTER I FROM MARYKNOLL TO THE GOLDEN GATE September, 1917. DIEU, Maryknoll! 'A Dieul To Godf In His hands thou art secure, and under the protecting favors of her who mothered the Saviour of men all will be well with thee! It was a real tug at the heart-strings, the get- away on that beautiful bright morning in early September,—the third, to be exact. The great river seemed never so near, the little chapel never so attractive, the Departure Hymn never so significant. The actual parting at the Seminary porch dropped into solemnity as soon as it began, much as we would have had it otherwise; and down at St. Teresa's, where tears and smiles come more or less readily, the handshake and blessing could not be too brief for the father of the flock. Even Collie seemed to realize the seriousness of the moment, as, with ears at perpendicular and eyes jumping, he stood silently observing until the friendly car had whisked the traveler out of sight and hearing. Au revoir, Maryknollers! Until we meet. When? Where? Only God knows, but we dare to hope that it will be again at the Knoll, within six short months, and that when the roll is called that day all who witnessed our first departure for a field afar will be there to make so much the happier the welcome home. Elizabeth, now battered enough to be called Ltz Elizabeth the once graceful and tidy motor-truck—followed with the bags and a few attendants, and with characteristic restlessness arrived ahead of us at the Scarborough Station, a quiet spot by the river bank admirably suited to its purpose. We had time to check the 1 — OBSERVATIONS IN THE ORIENT — baggage; to pose before a passing steamer for Father D 's own and only Graflex; and to throw some lingering glances at that fine expanse of water, the Tappan Zee, not to mention the grim walls of Sing-Sing, behind which was one of Maryknoll's special friends—the Chaplain, we hasten to say. An hour later we arrived in New York. The great metropolis was in holiday mood. It was Labor Day, and everybody was doing his best—some with poor success—not to work. The dusky prince who carried my large bag dropped it with a thud as he reached the curb and said something inarticulate that was uncharitably interpreted by his hearer. Though requested, he would not repeat the expression, but his good-nature came to the surface again as he closed his fist and walked back to find another victim. We left some friends at the Grand Central a priest, a seminarian, a layman, and one representative of the sex that on such occasions is sure to think, say, and do kind things.
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