2 StitchWorld 3 StitchWorld 4 StitchWorld Editor-in-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA VOL. XIV • ISSUE 7 World www.apparelresources.com Technical Editors Stitch PAUL COLLYER (UK) Technology and Management in Sewn Product Industry CLAUDIA OLLENHAUER-RIES (GERMANY)

Copy Editor VEERESHWAR SOBTI Asst. Copy Editor TechByte SAHIL SEHGAL 8 HOW MUCH DO YOU KNOW ABOUT LEAN Technical Correspondent TOOLS AND THEIR IMPLEMENTATION? SAUMYA KHARYA Design & Production NewsTrack RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL 14 PEEUSH JAUHARI 10 USA: MIMAKI UNVEILS LATEST VERSION OF RASTERLINK6 Tirupur's Knit Show 2016 saw the presence of SATYAPAL BISHT both local and international players and noted RIP SOFTWARE high footfall Subscription Enquiry RANI MAHENDRU - 011-47390000 TechTalk Publisher & Managing Director 22 HIGH-END SAVILE ROW FITTINGS RENU MOHINDRA - 09810058986 TRICKLING DOWN TO YOUR STREETS…

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www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 5 6 StitchWorld EDITORIAL

The latest edition of GTE at Bangalore was quite a huddle affair. Most of the companies were represented by their senior managers like ITC, Texport Industries, Madura, and this is just tip of the long and impressive list of visitors. However, this does not mean that the owner-level visitation was missing. Right from Indian Designs, Golden Seams, Gokaldas Images (from Bangalore) to Sree Santosh Garments, Tirupur and Global Mode and Accessories, Delhi-NCR were represented by their owners, creating quite a buzz among the technology suppliers. What emerged from the various discussions I had with many of them was that companies in Bangalore have created niches in their respective specialized categories based on product development as the growth engine. Also, most of the companies were happy with their growth and very upbeat of the future… This was in contrast to the feedback I have been getting from exporters in Delhi-NCR, who have had a bad S/S ’16 season due to many reasons, among which the prime reason is the slowdown in Europe, resulting in even more demand for tighter prices… I have even heard that a company doing business of around Rs. 75 crore has lost a major account worth Rs. 50 crore because the buyer wanted a price reduction of around 20 per cent (US $ 3.25 to US $ 2.5) and has since shifted the orders to Vietnam. Another very strong fact that emerged from my discussions at GTE was that very few exporters are willing to move out of their comfort zone, despite increasing cost of production in Bangalore. The farthest they are ready to go is to the border of Karnataka or coastal Andhra that too because the Government is pursuing them very pro-actively. Technology providers believe that the migration into new states is a must for the garment industry to grow and many of them claim that they are supporting companies that are willing to make the move. Another strong point made by the stalwarts of the technology industry is that automation alone is not the answer to labour issues… They emphasize on the need to balance automation with motivation. Also too much automation is not the solution, it has to be selective automation on those operations where replacing the labour makes sense. After all it is about replacing labour wages that cost ‘rupees per month’ as against western countries where the equation is ‘dollars per day’. I was also happy to see the equally good response at the inaugural Gartex exhibition held at Pragati Maidan, Delhi. Though the fair was small and focused mainly on value-addition technology that too mostly digital printing with huge participation from all leading players, the attention it attracted was worth noticing. It only goes to show that digital printing is still an opportunity area for many. An interesting comment from one of the participants that fascinated me, was that exhibiting at the iconic Pragati Maidan was a matter of prestige. In fact, the location was also partly responsible for the huge response… Good infrastructure no doubt adds value to an exhibition and the first-time professional efforts of the Gartex team was appreciated.

Deepak Mohindra Editor-in-Chief

Read and comment on my blog at http://stitchworldmagazine.blogspot.com

www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 7 Tech Byte

TECH BYTES What are all the Lean tools (e.g. SMED is one such tool) that you have heard about and implemented, or/are thinking of implementing in your factory? Do you feel there is enough information available on Lean, and can the garment factories actually implement Lean tools without the help of any consultant? If no, why? Have you already implemented or have tried implementing some Lean tools in your factory, and if yes, what are those? What results (in terms of finance) have you achieved by using these Lean tools?

We provide our clients with solutions to apply Lean tools Store, Floor Store, One Day Store, and Line Store. In many cases like 5S, Muda, Mura, Muri (3M), Production Preparation materials are stored as per SKU... But storing PO-wise/shipment- Process (3P), Single Minute Exchange of Die (SMED)/Quick wise can improve the efficiency of store’s operations. Changeover, Kaizen, Single Piece Flow, 7 QC tools, Value Stream Kaizen – we strongly believe that this tool should be adopted Mapping (VSM), Hoshin Planning, Kanban and Supermarket, as the culture of the organization. Kaizen becomes the culture Total Productive Maintenance, and Lean Accounting, at only when equal or higher importance is given to this tool their organization. than shipment. There is no doubt about the fact that there is plenty of SHRI RAAJKHAANTH information available on Lean tools and techniques on the web. Director – South Region, Methods Consultancy, Gurgaon, India However, understanding the Lean tools, and applying it to the garment industry is a key factor for the success and failure of the process. There are various Lean tools that are easily implementable in any organisation. We have focused mainly on 5S, Visual In my view, companies need to take help of consultants Control, 5 Whys (root cause analysis), Andon, Visual Control and because of their experience, and thereby handhold them at the Standard Operating Procedure (SOP). beginning of their Lean journey. Lean is basically a ‘CONCEPT’. It is totally based on logic and For example, many of companies misunderstand that Lean common sense. Before implementing any tool we need to ask means single piece flow, whereas it is just one of the tools. ourselves questions like, why do we need to be Lean? Why Our experience is, if anyone attempts to use this as a first and do we need to use that specific tool? What is the problem we primary tool, he struggles a lot in getting the desired results. Lot are facing? of understanding is required in basic tools such as TIMWOOD and Heijunka before attempting to implement such tools for There are so many good books, write-ups, articles on Lean single piece flow. that are available. But, until and unless we figure out the answers to the questions above, we won’t be able to continue. The teams need to be trained to manage absenteeism, A consultant can guide you to identify the problematic areas skill inventory, balance line based on SMV and operating and right tools that are needed to eliminate the problems, efficiency, order size and line size, response time to but, the need of implementing Lean has to be realised by the breakdown/quality/supply chain to successfully implement company itself. single piece flow. However, the important tools are 3M, Currently we are working on Value Stream Mapping (VSM) and especially TIMWOOD, which is an excellent waste elimination Total Productive Maintenance (TPM). Implementation of Lean tool, and Heijunka, an awesome line balancing tool. An can drastically reduce the re-process/re-work cost. Unnecessary organization can at least achieve 10-15 per cent improvement transportation and waiting time can also be significantly in the bottom line by thoroughly using these two tools. As a reduced. As a result, on-time delivery performance improves. bi-product of applying these tools one can overcome style/ Another improvement is reduced Work in Progress (WIP); less colour changeover difficulties. Planning, Supermarket and WIP is directly proportional to less stuck money. Kanban are other effective tools to reduce the lead time of execution. TANUSHREE MITRA RAY Lean Project Manager, Creative Clothex, Noida, India 5S is a simple yet powerful tool that one can implement at the beginning of a Lean journey. While factories find it difficult to quantify the results of 5S, in our experience one can effectively Lean manufacturing is a systematic approach to the identify 10 per cent of the space as extra, which can be used identification and elimination of all forms of waste. It is a for capacity building. In certain cases effective utilization of comprehensive set of tools and techniques. We need to choose manpower can contribute to tangible benefits. the tool, which is applicable to our operational need. When we visit clients’ factories, we often see big stores or Lean system will not only make our company leaner, but several stores within the factory named as Main Store, Trim subsequently create precise customer value for goods and

8 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com Tech Byte

delivery with higher quality, with flexibility, with less human TechByte effort, and less throughput time. StitchWorld OCTOBER 2016 Question Lean always has to be a top-down approach. It is a long-term strategy to improve all the KPIs through systematic reduction What kind of ironing/finishing equipment do you of waste. A factory can be a ‘Lean factory’ in 5 to 7 years by use for knitted garments? Do you use a normal systematic result-driven implementations, and sustenance of all the relevant Lean tools. vacuum table or an ironing table where steam comes up from table surface? If you are using such We are driving Lean tools to formalise, agree and approve the formalisation across the teams, training from top to bottom, a table, for what type of garments are you using it? implement, sustain and most importantly measure the set Do you use an up-steam table with cloth covered objectives and results. irons (which do not have heat or steam source) or At our organization, we have been working from past three up-steam table with cloth screen coming from top years on the implementation of the basic Lean tools such (no iron used)? as Standardisation, 5S, Kanban (WIP control), Preproduction Are you using form finisher for finishing of knitted Process. We created the Lean Tools Champion, Training, garments? What advantage do you get by using Implement and Audit teams from the existing teams to get form finisher over up-steam table? Is there any the results. disadvantage of using form finisher? Our team participates in various external training programmes, and visits factory to enhance the Lean tool knowledge. We Write your comments to us by 20th SEPTEMBER 2016 at: [email protected] or post your views online through our are engaging the functional trainers to impart knowledge to website: www.apparelresources.com the team on need and assignment basis. We encourage the external and internal competitions to assess our Lean tool journey. Our unit was awarded by ABK-AOTS – 5S sustenance award. The external and internal awards and rewards are the motivational factors for our team. Now we are focused on building the Lean pillar tools – RFT (Right First Time) Culture, TPM, Kaizen and Mistake Proofing (poka-yoke). By doing this, we will equip all our grassroots and supervisory level staff to handle the daily management, so that top management can work on strategic management. ASHOK KUMAR Global Head – IE, Aquarelle Group, Bangalore, India

We follow the principles of Lean manufacturing in our company without any help from consultants. Lean manufacturing emphasizes on the elimination of ‘Muda’ in the manufacturing process. Our method is simple as it encapsulates the spirit of teamwork and empowerment at all levels of manufacturing while holding people accountable at the same time. Even the housekeeping staff is involved as an integral part of the process as they provide critical feedback on wastages at every level and are empowered to take corrective action on certain processes while executing their job responsibilities. We manufacture high-fashion ladies apparel (involving additional processes such as embroidery and handwork) where there is a much higher possibility of wastages and therefore more opportunities of implementation of processes for its control. Ours is a customized process and each facility must look into each process and based on the activities involved, engineer a process that works towards the elimination of wastages and hence contributing towards making the manufacturer ‘LEAN’.

SANJAY GULATI Managing Director, Growel Impex, Noida, India

www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 9 News Track

USA: Mimaki unveils latest version of RasterLink6 RIP software USA: EFI Optitex integrates with PTC FlexPLM

lectronics For Imaging (EFI) Inc. has announced that Eits Optitex software operation and PTC, a US-based software company specializing in 2D and 3D design software, product lifecycle management (PLM) and service management solutions, will introduce an integrated offering of their solutions in connecting the EFI’s Optitex 3D Visual Platform with PTC’ s FlexPLM solution. The integrated Optitex and PTC offering will allow brands New version of Mimaki RasterLink6 offers ease-of-use combined with powerful and retailers to apply 3D technology to review and tools delivering enhanced image quality, colour and optimized output validate their collections and collaborate at a much faster rate within their organizations, while providing an end- imaki USA, a leading Inclusive of the PANTONE®+ to-end solution to plan, create, develop, source, and cost Mmanufacturer of Solid Coated and PANTONE®+ throughout their whole product lifecycle. wide-format inkjet printers Solid Uncoated colour libraries, “We see PLM integration as a critical step in enabling and cutters, has launched the 5.0 version of the software our customers to leverage their 3D Visual Platform new RasterLink6 ‘version spots colours in design files throughout the product lifecycle that will lead them to 5.0’ of its RIP software with automatically and converts go to market with better apparel products,” averred Asaf new features, including it to its accurate CMYK Landau, General Manager at EFI Optitex. the PANTONE® colour build. It also eliminates the libraries, colour replacement requirement for special colour The integrated offering is scheduled to be out this year, via spectrophotometer software by enabling the with the first version expected to provide full document measurements and support use of a spectrophotometer control and management, library synchronization of for creating FOTOBA cut to directly measure colour fabrics, artworks and colorways, and bill of materials marks. patches, within RasterLink6 extraction directly from EFI Optitex software. The software offers ease-of- software. “Our vision of providing transformative solutions that use combined with powerful Another new addition to enable our customers to evolve to a season-less planning tools delivering enhanced the software is the ability to paradigm, generating richly customizable products, image quality, colour and create FOTOBA cut marks requires a high degree of transparency with supply chain optimized output. It drives the directly within the Rasterlink6 partners. This integration will shift the operating model entire range of Mimaki inkjet operation window, which will of apparel design and delivery in that direction and it is printers including roll-based streamline production by something that our customers are equally excited to see and flatbed eco-solvent, allowing operators to create coming to the market,” commented Eric Symon, General latex, UV-LED, solvent UV and cropmarks without the need Manager – Retail Business Unit, PTC. dedicated textile solutions. for additional design software.

TRADE STATISTICS

With an increase of Vietnam witnessed The first six months The quantity of 2.50% in quantity, a surge of 4.91% in of 2016 proved to apparel exports to Indian apparel quantity, which in be beneficial for the US from China exports to the US turn increased the Bangladesh as underwent a drop registered a rise in value by 3.24% of the quantity of its of (-) 0.34%. The value of 0.86% in its apparel exports apparel exports to value also plunged the first six months to the US in the first the US surged 4.26% by (-) 5.20% during of 2016. half of 2016. resulting in a 1.52% January to June rise in value. period of 2016.

10 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com 11 StitchWorld News Track

USA: WFX Cloud PLM unveils modern look User Interface India: Knithome Garments FX Cloud PLM, the aims for GOTS Wworld’s first cloud PLM certification; for fashion industry, has launched a new cutting edge invests in User Interface (UI) with a digital printing modern look. WFX Cloud PLM is the nithome Garments, company’s core product for Ka Tirupur-based apparel brands & retailers garment export house, that centralizes product recently completed information and links the Disney audit and is now entire product lifecycle; working to get Global from sourcing and product Organic Textile Standard development through (GOTS) certification. As The new intuitive User Interface (UI) of WFX Cloud PLM has on offer an easier approvals and production to way to interact with the application on every device, be it desktop, tablet or mobile of now, the company has triggering alerts and tracking been getting small orders progress along the way. of pyjamas for Disney User Interface represents a with a 16 years track record (for the Europe market). The new intuitive UI has breakthrough in usability and 150 employees. Its superior While talking to Team on offer an easier way to for WFX Cloud PLM users. It products are used by more StitchWorld, D Saravanan, interact with the application offers an intuitive and visually than 450 fashion customers Managing Partner of on every device, be it engaging User Interface, and with over 15,000 users across this SA 8000 certified desktop, tablet or mobile – raises the bar for modern 23 countries, including Rapha, company that has 150 empowering users to work the applications across the Marlboro Classics, Kit & Ace, machines in its kitty way they want. industry.” Forever New, Benetton, Henry informed, “Completing Commenting on the hi-tech WFX is the leader in cloud- Cottons, Alternative Apparel, Disney audit was quite User Interface, Jatin Paul, based ERP & PLM software for Dallas Cowboys, White Stuff complicated but we did CEO, WFX says, “The new fashion and related industries and more. it and got the certificate. Now, we are moving forward and our target is GOTS. Furthermore, we Bangladesh: 6th edition of Denimsandjeans.com are investing in digital printing as it has good Bangladesh returns in October! growth potential. We are collecting information he sixth edition of denim characteristics – the to highlight the strength about it and may invest in TDenimsandjeans.com colours, the slubs, the weaves, of Bangladeshi denim machines like M&R, MHM, Bangladesh with the theme and the looks which jeans had industry which is growing etc.” The core products – ‘Vintage Recall, Denim Goes in early 1900s. The present very strongly and already of the company are Back To Its Roots’, will be production of denim involves supplies 50 per cent more nightwear and tees, and it held on 5th and 6th October a high technology in spinning, denim to the European is mainly exporting them in Dhaka, the capital city weaving and finishing in Union (EU) as compared to to Poland and France. of Bangladesh. After five which the manufacturers China. “Bangladesh has a Working with wholesalers successful editions, this semi- will incorporate the ‘vintage’ huge potential in the textile, and chain stores, annual denim show will once character on the outside. especially in denim and in D Saravanan shared his past few years it has been again provide a platform to Besides, the show this time opinion on the market, growing by leaps and bounds. the global denim community will include a couple of and said, “As far as our Our objective has been to share, interact and seminars by international experience or our buyers always to show the world establish future transactions denim experts and veterans are concerned, I can say the immense opportunity with denim suppliers in where they will share their that market is booming in Bangladesh through our the country. now. We are expecting views on the different denim shows,” avers Sandeep good growth in current Keeping up with the current prospects of denim. Agarwal, Founder of fiscal year.” trend of going back into the Denimsandjeans.com Denimsandjeans.com past, the show will feature Bangladesh show aims Bangladesh.

12 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com 13 StitchWorld News Track

India: Tirupur’s Knit Show Italy: Thermore produces 100% impresses with potpourri of apparel recycled down jackets manufacturing solutions

hermore, the Italy- can save up to 10 bottles Tbased company that per garment and will help researches, produces protect energy reserves for and markets thermal future generation. insulation for apparel, Furthermore, the new has taken the next insulation material major step towards does not require special sustainability by quilting restrictions or converting the entire fabrics, and can be easily ‘Ecodown®’ product washed and/or dry- line of synthetic down cleaned. This high level alternative to fully of durability equates to The event saw the presence of both local and international players and noted high footfall recycled fibre content, exceptional, long-term derived exclusively from warmth over the life of he 16th edition of Knit fair, Burak Uystal, Sales and PET water bottles which a garment. Also, a wide Show, Tirupur (India), a Marketing Coordinator from will provide unparalleled variety of weights and T famous trade show, once again the company said that he was waterproofing and wind- thickness options (over proved to be a complete event quite hopeful about demand proofing properties, claims 20 variations). in itself. All kinds of printings in in Tirupur as well as in other the company. Thermore Group has the field of digital, screen and parts of India. Yin Japan Co. The new Ecodown is the global presence, with a direct-to-garment, dominated Ltd., another company from only synthetic product in current product range the show. Several celebrated Japan, offering cutting room the market to be made including Classic, Thermal names like Grafica Flextronica, solution also displayed for the from 100 per cent post- Booster, Ecodown®, Cheran Machines India, Digital first time in Tirupur. consumer plastic bottles EVOdown®, Pro, Stretch Graphics Incorporation, ROQ, The event saw the presence of offering the market a and Aria. In the mid ’80s, MHM, Negi Sign Systems & both local and international warm, soft, durable and Thermore was the first Suppliers Co., Dhaval Colour players and was marked by a sustainable alternative company to introduce a Chem, Lordz, Wenli, Apsom high footfall. Good visitation to down. Depending on thermal insulation made Infotex Limited and others was seen at most of the the utilization, outerwear from recycled fibres from displayed their printing booths. However, some visitors insulated with Ecodown PET bottles. machines at the fair. Grafica were of the opinion that Flextronica and Cheran there were very few fabric Machines India, which were companies present at the earlier mainly into screen fair, especially in the woven printing, displayed their digital segment. Overall, the fair printers for the first time. This is managed to impress people indeed a positive development with its avant-garde exhibits. as far as innovation in the Team StitchWorld met many printing domain is concerned exhibitors at the show and and almost every company all of them said that they dealing in printing equipment were pleased with the opined that all kinds of printing footfall and visitors’ response. will grow in Tirupur in the Teams from Next Sourcing, years ahead. Evesyl Enterprises, Rupa & The fair also featured Company, Anbu Apparels advanced technology in India and Shivam Exports cutting room solutions from shared that the fair was quite Serkon Textile Machinery; impressive as far as printing (Turkey) which displayed its technology was concerned, The new Ecodown offers a warm, soft, durable and sustainable alternative to down jackets made from 100 per cent post- solution in India for the first but in the future, it can add consumer plastic bottles time. Expressing his pleasure value by including more over the response at the fabric companies.

14 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com 15 StitchWorld News Track

Germany: bullmer to exhibit innovations at Intermic Germany-based bullmer will ullmer, industry’s leading showcase its Bspecialist and supplier of cutting machines, innovative cutting technology known for high for technical textiles will be participating at the upcoming efficiency and fair – Intermic, an international productivity, at machine innovations and Intermic ´16. components fair to be held from 13th to 16th September opportunity for entrepreneurs 2016 in Poland. The Germany- to establish international based company is known contacts and get acquainted worldwide for single- and with the latest technologies multi-ply cutting applications and trends in the industry. and the corresponding Organised by Poznań material handling and storage At Intermic bullmer will showcase its automatic cutting solutions for the International Fair (MTP), systems, all promoting textile industry the four-day event will economical process witness participants automation systems. material flow as well as foreign manufacturers and displaying equipment At the fair, bullmer will automatic cutting solutions distributors of machines right from spinning and showcase their cutting for the textile and flat material and components for the fabric production machines machines, known for high processing industry. textile, clothing and footwear to finishing machines efficiency and productivity Intermic trade fair is a business industries present their latest for textile, clothing and for material handling and platform where Polish and developments, providing an footwear industries.

Myanmar to India: Government hikes duty drawback to boost set up textile & apparel exports apparel zone ndian Government has to boost high-value apparel of fabric under the Special announced the increase exports and support its Advance Authorisation he Government of I declining exports. Scheme shall be allowed for Myanmar is planning of duty drawback rate to T export of articles of apparel to set up an exclusive 4.7 per cent as against The Finance Ministry and clothing accessories textile and garment zone, the previous 3.2 per cent informed that any concerns covered under Chapter 61 which will be equipped for exports of non-fabric arising from the new and 62, subject to the terms to produce raw material, inputs made from imported schedule of rates will be taken and conditions. machines and finished fabrics under the Advance into account by an Expert products in a single Authorisation Scheme in view Committee. Duty-free import It has been reported that the place. Khin Maung Cho, authorization will be issued Union Minister for Industry, based on Standard Input made this announcement Output Norms (SION) or prior at a meeting held recently fixation of norms committee. to form a central executive Also, the authorization shall committee of the Myanmar only be issued for the import Textile and Garment of relevant fabrics, including Entrepreneurs Association. inter lining only as input. It may be mentioned here It may be mentioned that the that the Myanmar apparel global economic slowdown industry employs around and slump in commodity 350,000 people at nearly prices reportedly resulted 400 apparel facilities across in declining of Indian apparel exports in the past the country. Indian Government increases duty drawback rate to 4.7% for exports of non-fabric inputs made from imported fabrics few months.

16 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com News Track

Germany: Groz-Beckert to exhibit wide range of products at ITMA Asia ’16 USA: Gerber’s YuniquePLM integrates with Texbase

erber Technology, the world leader in integrated Gsoftware and automation solutions for the apparel and industrial markets, has announced the integration between YuniquePLM® and Texbase™, which would aid companies in simplifying their delivery of innovative and socially responsible products in the apparel, footwear, home textiles and consumer products industries. “Texbase solution used in aggregation with YuniquePLM enables customers to fulfil their complex Groz-Beckert will showcase circular, flat and warp knitting machines made material, testing and compliance requirements. It from acrylic glass with individual removable elements for detailed viewing at the fair streamlines the way brands achieve transparency across their supply chain. The integrated solutions will help companies gain detailed insight into their roz-Beckert, world’s The tufting segment will be supply chain empowering them to be proactive Gleading provider of focusing on the increasing industrial machine needles, quality requirements with the is set to exhibit its products Loop Control® technology and solutions across the entire from Groz-Beckert, specifically textile value chain at the designed for processing soft upcoming 5th edition of ITMA fibre yarns with extremely Asia, scheduled to be held fine single filaments. An from 21st to 25th October online customer portal, a 2016 in Shanghai, China. knowledge database for In the knitting section, the sewing technology that company will focus on expands the service portfolio productivity and profitability with all information on Texbase’s solutions along with YuniquePLM’s rich features will with circular, flat and warp enable customers to achieve a transparent supply chain and fulfil the Groz-Beckert sewing complex buyer-centric requirements knitting machines made on products and useful acrylic glass with individual information on sewing and removable elements for the sewing industry, will when making strategic decisions,” states Joe Walkuski, Founder and CEO, Texbase. detailed viewing along with also be presented under the the litespeed® plus needle sewing segment, in addition Texbase, a pioneer in web-based business solutions, which has an optimized needle to the patented INH (Ideal offers a complementary solution in parallel to geometry, increases the service Needle Handling) quality YuniquePLM’s rich feature set by providing a life, reduces oil consumption, management service, to detailed way to automate and certify compliance reduces the machine enable a problem-free and requirements, manage colour approval and lab temperature and leads to time-saving procedure to deal dip tracking, manage materials and testing for energy savings of up to 20 per with broken and damaged development and quality assurance as well as secure cent in the knitting process. sewing machine needles. collaboration with supply chain partners. Also on display will be The newly added carding “With Texbase, brands, retailers and manufacturers jacquard heald, a new addition are able to achieve greater innovation, product to the Groz-Beckert’s products segment will stress on a synthetic doffer wire for integrity and corporate social responsibility through in the weaving segment, increased visibility and traceability throughout the carding fine to extremely whereas the felting section supply chain. Texbase and YuniquePLM alliance fine fibres along with special will have on exhibit solutions shares a common goal of helping our customers for the geotextiles, filter and products for the nonwovens simplify processes, increase efficiency and enable paper-machine felts and carding sector to supplement collaboration,” avers Clayton Parker, Manager, automotive applications in the extensive product range PLM Product Management. addition to the special needle for the short and long staple solutions for the filter industry. spinning industries.

www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 17 News Track

Ethiopia: Ethiopian Institute chooses Tukatech Sweden: Outdoor brand ukatech Inc., the leading Ethiopia and established with Bahir Dar University POC deploys Ttechnology provider Tukatech users like Arvind, and offering of TUKAcad on Centric PLM for apparel Industry, has EPIC, Hirdaramani, Indochine the cloud as a subscription announced the purchase with other factories setting will benefit both students OC, an outdoor of 50 licenses of TUKAcad up or already operating and industry immensely,” Pbrand specializing Learning Edition software, need qualified CAD users. adds Sonia Chhabra, in protective gear for with modules for pattern We would be able to help Director, Tukatech Inc. gravity sports and cyclists, making, grading, and marker fill those positions with Tukatech, founded in 1995, has selected Centric making, along with digitizers our training programme is the leading garment and Software to provide its by Bahir Dar University, the and 50 TUKAcad stations,” apparel industry’s provider PLM (Product Lifecycle premier institution which explains Ram Sareen, CEO and of fashion technology Management) solution. produces the best technicians Founder of Tukatech Inc. solutions for 2D pattern and is the most advanced The Sweden-based brand Established in 1963, Bahir Dar making, grading, marker university in Ethiopia’s University has been known making software, automated is rapidly growing and apparel sector. sought a PLM solution for supplying the Ethiopian marker making software, to help streamline “Ever growing demand of market with some of the best 3D sample making/virtual operations and add setting new factories in technicians. “Our partnership prototyping software. flexibility to operations based on best practices. “We decided to look for a solution that would India: Industry inks MoU to increase fabric exports to Afghanistan enable us to enhance visibility and transparency ynthetic and Rayon of Understanding (MoU) “Afghanistan is a promising and take control over Textile Export Promotion with a delegation from market for the export of our supply chain from S Council (SRTEPC), an apex Afghanistan to boost textile fabrics from Surat and assortment planning to body of Indian textile export of polyester fabrics other MMF centres across the product development. industry, and Southern and made-ups. The country. We are expecting to I am impressed with Gujarat Chamber of signing took place at the triple our direct export from Centric’s solution which Commerce and Industry recently concluded ‘Source India to Afghanistan in the next is specifically designed to (SGCCI) have jointly India 2016’ exhibition in couple of years. Afghanistan answer apparel market signed a Memorandum Surat (India). traders are more than willing needs based on industry to enter into direct business best practices. This really makes a huge difference,” with traders in Surat and other states Monica Lindström, places,” Narain Agarwal, Vice Senior Manager Chairman, SRTEPC told a Apparel, POC. leading Indian daily. “We are excited to be part Currently, Indian exporters of POC’s growth plans. are not extensively engaged Since best practices are in direct trade of textiles with incorporated into Centric Afghanistan which they sell PLM, we can help assure to it through Third World methodical and profitable countries. At the moment, growth as POC expands trade with Afghanistan stands its high quality product at around US $ 165 million, offering,” averred Chris which also includes fabric exports worth US $ 161 Groves, CEO of Centric India’s trade with Afghanistan stands at around US $ 161 million worth of Software, thrillingly. fabric exports, made-ups worth US $ 3 million and polyester yarn worth million, made-ups worth Centric Software develops US $ 1 million US $ 3 million and polyester technologies for fashion, Currently, Indian exporters are not yarn worth US $ 1 million. retail, footwear, luxury, extensively engaged in direct trade of Now with this MoU in place, outdoor and consumer it is expected that trade goods companies. textiles with Afghanistan which they sell to it between the two countries through Third World countries. will further increase.

18 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com News Track

India: Tex Orchid focusing more on sportswear

ex Orchid, a Tirupur-based “Earlier we were into Texport house, is planning 100 per cent cotton (wide range to focus more on sportswear of Tees) but now we are into by inreasing its share up to 20 all kinds of sportswear items per cent of total business as (in polyester, poly blends, etc.) against the current 5 per cent. also. As this product category Catering to European market, has lot of potential,” informs the four-year-old company P. Balamurugan, Partner, offers kids’, men’s and women’s Tex Orchid in an exclusive wear in the knitted segments interaction with StitchWorld. and deals in products starting The company has shipped from FOB US $ 2.5 to US $ 7.5. two orders of polyester items It projects a growth of 10 to and is confident that it can 15 per cent in the current successfully cater to the fiscal year. volumes in sportswear.

India: Dexter Apparels to double its capacity

Currently exporting to Europe and the US market, the Sedex-approved Dexter Apparels is now targeting Australia and New Zealand to have year-round business. Manav Singhal, Director, Dexter Apparels

oida-based Dexter and downs in business, we are NApparels, the garmenting expanding our capacity and arm of Frisco Fab Dyeing & looking to explore new buyers,” Printing, is planning to double shares Manav Singhal, Director, its production capacity in Dexter Apparels in an exclusive the next six months. The interview with StitchWorld. company would be investing Currently exporting to Europe Rs. 2.5 crore in the expansion. and the US market, the The one-and-a-half year old Sedex-approved company company currently produces is now targeting Australia 25,000 pieces of ladies and and New Zealand to have kids wear per month. year-round business. “The idea was to expand once Parent company of Dexter we settle down and now that Apparels, Frisco Fab Dyeing our apparel unit is approved & Printing is into processing by Mothercare and Amazon, business from past four UK, we are going ahead with decades and is nominated by the plan. Though there are ups many buyers.

www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 19 News Track

Bangladesh: Solstice achieves 30% efficiency through innovative India: Fashion Makers Group coming training programme up with new factory

olstice, a Dhaka-based efficiency has been achieved; ashion Makers Group (FMG), a BSCI-SA8000 certified Sapparel export house, and with operators training Fspread across Noida-based export house, is investing has proposed the framework for a week – 30 per cent US $ 8 million in a new factory 5,000 sq. m. The unit of training programme efficiency enhancement has is expected to commence operations by the end of derived from the “Design been achieved. The daily next season. Thinking” ideology aimed output of 45 machines has Also the company expects to triple the turnover in next at de-stressing workers on surged from 900 pieces few years with this expansion. Rakesh Jain, Chairman, FMG the shop floor to enhance to 1,200 pieces through told StitchWorld, “We are working to enhance the capacity to efficiency. these interventions. and make our units modern. Our plan is to put up a proper The company advocates the “Garment workers are always working system at the new unit with the use of LED lights, sequence of observation, concentrating on the needle maximum use of daylight, solar plants, etc.” imitation and repetition that puts huge stress on their Catering to European market, the company produces where they teach their eyes. It is their eyes that need 2,00,000 pieces for ladies and kids per month. Fashion operators to start slow, replenishment. I feel that Makers Group also run FMG institute which offers observe and imitate the the garment workers should professional courses. process and handling have an ‘eye massage’ after

Garment workers India: KPR Mills installs 5 oval screen are always printing machines concentrating on the needle. oimbatore- based KPR Mills, one of the largest In the one-day Cvertically integrated apparel manufacturing company in India, has recently installed 5 oval screen printing training schedule, machines. The machines are of ROQ, Portugal, which a 15-minute is represented in India only by Spoorthi Technologies, presentation is Tirupur. Each machine is 80 feet in length and has 50 showed to the palettes (18 colours) with it. These machines are one of operators on the the high-cost machines in the screen printing industry. Capable to do multiple jobs at one time, such kinds of ‘eye massage’ machines have capacity to produce approximately 3,000 exercise and the pieces per hour. food they need to Ramesh Ganduri, MD, Spoorthi Technologies informed eat for the energy StitchWorld, “Technically results of oval/round machine required. are not different; there are some advantages in oval Rahman Hasibur, MD, Solistice machines like more number of colours are possible in oval.” He further added that Tirupur is aggressively growing in printing segment, and is investing in printing machines. “There are no tees without printing; margins methodology, slowly and every 2-3 hours to de-stress are reasonable in the printing industry so ROI period for repeatedly. “With accurate themselves,” adds Rahman. printing machines is becoming shorter,” he said. imitation and repetition, Working on this principle In the leadership of K P Ramasamy, Chairman of the operators will be able to the company is creating company, K.P.R. Mills Ltd. is aggressively growing in achieve excellence, as the modules for the same at garmenting as it recorded a rise of 10.7% in its net thickening of neurons their research library. In the profit at Rs. 9.1 crore for the quarter ended June 30, facilitates faster conduction one-day training schedule, 2016 as compared to Rs. 5.7 crore for the quarter ended between neurons upon more a 15-minute presentation is June 30, 2015. repetition,” feels Rahman showed to the operators on Hasibur, MD, Solstice. the ‘eye massage’ exercise and Having a capacity of more than 95 million garments per By re-engineering the layouts the food they need to eat for annum, the company offers complete range of garments. and systems, 15 per cent the energy required.

20 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com Stitch World

21 www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 21 Tech Talk

The wheel has come full circle, from bespoke to mass production to mass customization, and now back to somewhere between mass customization and bespoke. Various industries have customized their respective systems to woo consumers in a very personalized way, offering products made especially for them. Though it is a growing business model, it is difficult to implement and the most critical part is achieving the ‘perfect fit’. Team StitchWorld elucidates the process of achieving ‘perfect fit’ of selected bespoke service providers…

High-end Savile Row fittings trickling down to your streets…

n the quest to corner the – key differentiator of MTM and bespoke is the latest buzz word exclusive-wear seeker in bespoke, is also fading away, as most for some big brands. In fact, many Iclothing, two similar systems of the bespoke tailoring service companies today are offering are prevailing in the market to providers use modular system of bespoke options and the numbers serve the customer. First is bespoke manufacturing instead of the ‘make are growing. tailoring, which denotes clothing through system’ keeping in mind made entirely from measuring the the average skill-level of operators To start visit store or individual, from pattern making, and also to cut the hike in cost. browse website cutting fabric to tailoring and is a system of working on the exact Off-the-rack vs. MTM Customers interested in bespoke specifications of the customer. The and Bespoke tailored shirts, suits or blazers just second one is made to measure need to visit the nearest Raymond’s – refers to clothing sewn from Catering well to ‘on-the-go’ made to measure store or to the a standard-sized base pattern generation, an off-the-rack suit nearest Van Heusen’s store or even involving less workmanship than may be the best option, but won’t log on to Van Heusen’s site. The bespoke tailoring because of the necessarily be the best fit option. brand provides custom tailoring for incorporation of standardization An off-the-rack suit is basically both men and women. in the pattern making and made keeping in mind the general A venture of Arvind, Creyate – a manufacturing processes. Also, measurements of the populace, ‘bridge’ to luxury made to measure it can be manufactured in using common dimensions. brand, offers its customers the modular system. Whereas, a made-to-measure or indulgence of custom tailoring bespoke suit will fit like a glove, Although the two concepts are of shirts, suits, denims and chinos as it will be made from exact technically different, in today’s through Creyate customization measurements. When shopping for fast-paced fashion requirement, the studio. Customers can also a suit, the customer may choose to lines between made to measure browse through their website be quick and take the easy route and bespoke tailoring are getting and book a home visit. It caters to by buying off-the-rack or to make a finer. Bespoke is now relying on both domestic and international customized one – a ‘just-for-them’ standardized patterns, trespassing markets, shipping custom-made piece of art, personalized right its exclusivity of individually-cut clothes across USA, Middle East, down to the type of collar, cuff or patterns and also using technology Singapore, etc. for manufacturing, disseminating lining that the wearer desires. In with the exclusive handcrafting of India, a country known to have It’s My Life Jeans also provides the product. The sewing process grown on personalized tailoring, bespoke tailoring in denim jeans.

Generic process followed for bespoke tailoring

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Customers can browse database which is connected monogrammed. Creyate, also image for reference. They can through the website and to the fabric mills in Bangalore. allows the wearer to make select fabric of their choice book an appointment to get a choice from different fits from fabric swatches sourced However, a different approach the measurements done or available, viz. Regular Fit, from best Indian mills; there is is followed by Van Heusen can visit their partner stores Tailored Fit and Slim Fit. At the also an option to provide their MY FIT concept, where it across the Delhi-NCR, Mumbai studio, the customer is shown own fabric. Also, customers starts the process with the and Hyderabad. Either way the swatch booklet which can choose from different customer’s measurements. the clothes are made based comprises fabric swatches types of fittings. on individual measurements. The customer then selects with a unique code. Offering tailoring services the fabric with a unique code Poptailor procures fabric ranging from shirts and from the fabric booklet past At IML, a customer can choose from Siyaram, Raymond, pants to kurta-pyjama and the measurement process. from a wide range of fabrics Arvind Mills, and other Nehru jackets for men, and However, colour options are sourced from the best mills in well established mills in from shirts and blouses to not available, though choices India, Italy, Spain, Japan, Turkey the international markets... lehenga and salwar kameez, for in sleeve, sleeve length, collars and US, and also trims right Offering a total of 10 women, Tech-Tailor enables and cuffs are available. from the colour of thread, to customization options in customers to schedule buttons and rivets and the collar, cuffs, placket, pocket, With a wide range of over type of stitches they want garment-technician’s visit at hem, sleeves, piping, fit, 1,500 internationally sourced on their tailored jeans. The their doorstep. embroidery and yoke, the fabrics and many options of customers can also decide for bespoke tailoring service Catering to the fashion trims displayed on its website, monogramming, embroideries provider’s unique 3D design sense of Indian middle-class Creyate allows its customers and types of washes they may studio lets customers design segment, Poptailor provides to create a garment for desire for their jeans. their own apparels to their bespoke tailoring of men’s themselves from a number taste. The customer, if he/ shirts and trousers. Customer of choices in collars, cuffs, At Tech-Tailor, customers she desires, can also choose can browse through their pockets, buttons, hems and can select their style from website and personalize their plackets. Customers can also the e-catalogue available or material/colour contrast for look..., a modern take on the get their customized clothing can simply upload their style different parts; moreover traditional neighbourhood master jee. Selection of fabric… A personalized choice At Raymond, a customer is shown the fabric booklet which contains assortments of fabric pattern swatches, each with a unique code. Fashion consultants also assist the customer in creating a personalized style for his suit, trouser, shirt or jacket. Colour “People never get “Tech-Tailor is one “Poptailor provides variants available for some their right fit and of the most trusted its customers with swatches are also displayed in eventually have to get tailoring doorstep unbridled passion the booklet and have a unique their clothes altered. delivery services for perfection. It code as well. A customer IML not only designs in the country. We poses as the ultimate selects the fabric based on his a product which ages offer our services destination for perfect interest. Choices for cufflinks with you but also not only in India but fit, personalized and collars are also available celebrates your life, internationally also in designs and curated at an extra cost. The customer your personality and Denmark, Sweden & fabrics.” care executive then checks your choices.” Australia.” – Ankit Rajput, the availability of the fabric – Aditya Singhal, – Premjeet Singh, Co- Founder, and the colour chosen by the customer in an online CEO and Founder, Founder, Poptailor IML Jeans Tech-Tailor

www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 23 Tech Talk

the fabric need not be a At Creyate, once the fabric single selection. and trims are finalized, Raymond measurements are assessed Raymond Made to Measure – a luxurious service Measure through measuring tape and of premium clothing from the house of Raymond customer’s fit… stored on the online portal – The Complete Man, delivers a wholesome and forwarded to Bangalore experience by allowing discerning customer to To record the size and manufacturing unit. Creyate personalize their ensemble to their own taste. It specifications of their studio also keeps dummy fits brings the fantastic experience of finest line of customer, Raymond’s stores for every size and for every fabrics, exquisite designs and flawless technology have dummy fits (trial-on product. Size specifications are into an impeccable craft in the form of shirts and patterns) for both odd and stored in online database for suits. even sizes. If the fabric chosen future prospects. by a customer is available in Unique Feature: Raymond Made to Measure the mill, a master tailor then IML follows a specific and lets the customer choose from fabric rolls in case takes precise measurements unique approach for evaluating customer needs a better understanding of fabric’s and gives them the closest body specifications of suitability on him/her. try-ons. Once the dimensions customers. Style advisors take are recorded, the pinning is 13 different measurements Van Heusen done according to the body to of the customers by using measuring tape and few “Style might well attract, but it’s the fit that makes create the perfect silhouette other props created by IML. To you pull it off”… A revolutionary innovation of the suit. Photographs ensure a perfect fit, a from Van Heusen, My Fit gives the opportunity to of the customer IML mid-trial with jeans personalize shirts, trousers and suits just the way are recorded follows is done with you want them. From the fabrics to the fits, from from different a specific and the customer. the collars to the cuffs, My Fit endeavours stylish angles in unique approach IML gives look with the perfect fit and lets the customer bid order to for evaluating body specifications of customers. customers adieu to ill fittings. capture the details Style advisors take 13 the options Unique Feature: Van Heusen provides five fits of his/her different measurements of five fits of the customers using for women, for men – Plus Fit, Healthy Fit, Tall Fit, Custom Fit, fit, posture measuring tape and few Athletic Fit, and three fits for women, namely and walk. other props created namely Skinny Dianna Fit, Orra Fit and Venus Fit. Measurements by IML. Fit, Slim Fit, Slim are stored in Flared Fit, Straight Creyate online database Fit and Comfort- Boyfriend Fit, and four fits for Arvind Limited forayed into e-commerce with the for future prospects so men – Slim Fit, Straight Fit, launch of Creyate – a custom clothing website, that they could be used next time if the customer Trouser Fit and Comfort-Work targeting to provide an unparalleled experience visits any Raymond store. Fit. Comfort-Boyfriend for with the help of an intuitive user-interface in 2014, Measurements taken are then women is an extremely relaxed letting the customers add individuality to their style forwarded to the Bangalore fit where the crotch and the by choosing garment-fabrics, styles, components, unit for production. front and back allies are much and monograms. M Deepak, Marketing Head, larger and placed half an inch Creyate avers, “Creyate is India’s only true blue omni Van Heusen MY FIT offers above on the waist. Comfort- channel brand. It is the ultimate amalgamation the facility of home visits to Work for men is basically of fashion, brand interaction, technology and record measurements. The designed more like chinos to manufacturing with personalized touch.” Creyate customer care executive wear at the workspace. Body has presence across 60 stores in Japan through its takes measurement of the specifications are stored in the strategic partner Goodhill Corporation, the largest customer and as the name online database for future custom suits manufacturer of Japan with over 50 of the vertical suggests prospects and could be years of experience. Van Heusen’s main focus is on accessed next time. Once fit. Dummy fits are available Unique Feature: Arvind Internet Limited’s (AIL) the measurement evaluation with the store for every first-of-its-kind digital retail experience store – process comes out to be type of fit. Measurements Creyate, with its one-of-its-kind 3D customization accurate, measurements are taken are recorded in a engine aids its customers to view 360 rotational forwarded for production. form and uploaded on their view of their own designed products along with online portal. However, Tech-Tailor offers the facility the facility of sharing and saving the look. measurements are not stored of technicians visiting for future prospects. customer’s doorstep to

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It’s My Life Jeans Co. Formerly a finishing agents’ manufacturer, Aditya Singhal, CEO and Founder, IML Jeans, ventured into bespoke tailoring of jeans in 2011 to express his love and understanding for jeans. IML completely re-engineered the whole process of jeans construction to provide ultimate fit to customers after surveying 1,000 men and women. “People never get their right fit and eventually get their clothes altered. IML not only designs a product which ages with you but also An operator doing PP spray finishing on jeans at IML Factory celebrates your life, your personality and your choices,” says Aditya. record body specifications. In manufactured at Silver Unique Feature: IML surprises the customer India, conventional method Spark Apparel Ltd. Both with the ‘Surprise You’ lining where they place of measurement tape is shirts and suits/blazers are some funky linings in the tailored jeans. It also applied for measuring while manufactured through PBU embroiders the customer’s name and initials on for customers abroad a body system. After the recording the jeans with the computerized embroidery scanner is installed. Tech-Tailor of size and specifications, machine. maintains anthropometric Van Heusen accelerates the database and algorithms measurements to Madura Tech-Tailor to generate suitable fit Bangalore online. The orders for customers in different of Tech-Tailor are produced Premjeet Singh, Founder, Tech-Tailor, believes geographies. In India, they through modular system that Tech-Tailor is one of the most trusted also have an option for the of production. Individual tailoring doorstep delivery services in the customer to send their best fit patterns for custom fitted country. Their highly trained tailors and on-time garment with free pick up. clothes are being made with delivery ensure that the garment altered or the help of CAD at times. The stitched is exactly the way customer wants it. After personalizing his/ unit encompasses a finishing “Tech-Tailor offers its services not only in India her wear, the customer can unit as well in the premises. but internationally also in Denmark, Sweden & book visit of an ‘outfitter’ Australia,” informs Premjeet. on Poptailor’s website, who For the manufacturing of makes home visits to take tailored clothing at Creyate, Unique Feature: Tech-Tailor provides the option measurements. Customers all the patterns are made of 72 hours express delivery for quick orders. can also provide their best fit on CAD system which are shirt measurements online. then fed into the system for Poptailor Once the outfitter takes the automated cutting at state- Aimed at providing uncompromised quality for measurements, it is saved in of- the art, tech-forward those who only benchmark perfection, Poptailor the customer’s online profile. factory in the outskirts of addresses the problems of ill-fittings and the Customers can use the same Bangalore. Patterns to nearest desire of perfect fit. Ankit Rajput, a young and profile for the next order. fit are altered according to the measurements of the customer. enthusiastic, Co-Founder, Poptailor believes, Patterns come from Japan for “Poptailor provides their customers with Production suits, blazers, bandhgalas and unbridled passion for perfection. It poses as the adding the final formals. Italian production ultimate destination for perfect fit, personalized touch… technology for shirts, denims designs and curated fabrics.” and chinos with Japanese- Bangalore seems to be the Unique Feature: This technology-driven certified MTM specialists give preferred manufacturing fashion company offers a unique proposition Creyate an edge. base with Raymond, Van by offering 3D design studio dynamic in nature Heusen, Tech-Tailor’s and Jeans orders for IML are allowing customers to interact while designing. Creyate having factories manufactured at its production It allows the customers to create their personal in the city. Shirt orders unit in Gurgaon in an assembly environment, e.g. skin tone; matching trousers for Raymond MTM are line system. Individual digitized are manufactured to get that one perfect fit manufactured at Celebration patterns are made for every suiting their individual preferences. Apparels Ltd., and suits individual and cut in single and blazers orders are ply through straight knife.

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the finishing process takes Van Heusen delivers the order place. With the focus on in 7-9 days at customer’s specially crafted apparels doorstep after the order is for each individual, digitized placed. Creyate dispatches patterns are used. The the order to the customer company uses ‘make through after the accomplishment system’ via highly skilled of manufacturing in 12-15 craftsmen to ensure perfect working days. Owing to highly fit and good quality. This mechanized back-end in bespoke service provider also collaboration with Goodhill has a small unit in Mumbai Corporation of Japan, Creyate’s for the customers with FTR deliveries stand at a IML embroiders customer’s name and initials on jeans to give a staggering 94 per cent – an customized look urgent requirements. industry benchmark. Delivery timeline: The biggest value addition of quality checks ranging IML ships the order to the in denims, i.e. washes are from quality of cotton and From 7 to 10 days customer in two weeks also done in-house with dyes to quality of wash on an average… following the day of all recipes made by Aditya. and amount of blueness to order placement after the Customers get themselves ensure the right long lasting Past the process of manufacturing is complete. the liberty to choose from fitted jeans. manufacturing, the orders Tech-Tailor delivers the order 20 different types of finishing for Raymond are dispatched within Bangalore in 7-10 days, such as PP spray, whiskering After the measurements are to the store and the delivery two weeks within India and and destructed jeans which done, Poptailor forwards timeline is 10-12 working three weeks at a location is then done by Fabcare these measurement details days once the order is placed. outside the country. The delivery machine. Every jean goes to the production unit at Customer is expected to come time of the bespoke apparel by through 70-80 parameters Ahmedabad (Gujarat) where to store to collect the order. Poptailor is 7 working days.

www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 27 Tech Talk

Operational and financial metrics are aplenty in the apparel industry…, most of which are a result of financial analysis and review after a typical month-end. As a result, the impact of process measurements on problem-solving is not in real-time and hence not as much effective. An organization can meet its operational goals by designing metrics that can be reviewed in a transparent manner either daily or hourly on the production floor. Anand Deshpande, Founder and CEO – Admaa Consulting, a specialist in Lean and Six Sigma consulting in the apparel, automotive, financial services and education sector, talks about the metrics and process of reviewing an apparel manufacturing unit’s production floor.

Operational Metrics – A ‘shopfloor dashboard review process’ in apparel industry

hey say in the management to measuring output from some hour on an hourly basis can help parlance ;“If you cannot critical machines having sunrise address constraints immediately Tmeasure, you cannot manage”. and sunset meetings within and ensure smoother production Performance measures or KPI’s (Key teams and rounding off the day flow in the ensuing hours. Lean Performance Indicators) are an with priorities for the next day. measurements are lesser compared outcome of management’s need to Some factories do have a visual to financial performance measures manage performance. Some KPI’s metric dashboard but metrics are in an organization. Therefore, only a like output per day are the lagging usually not reviewed on an hourly few measures help an organization indicators while some like cycle basis. Hourly measurement of to focus on Lean manufacturing time are the leading indicators. A performance and its review on the and meet overall operational goals. good factory scorecard consists of production floor facilitate problem Group leaders and supervisors both lagging and leading indicators solving and play an important role collect floor measurements on an with a bias towards Operational in improving the flow through hourly and daily basis. The focus is Metrics. An example of leading the constraint. on detecting abnormalities from indicators is cycle time, whereas an standards and take immediate example of lagging indicator could SQDCME Visual actions to rectify any issues that be volume of goods produced daily. prevent meeting of standards. Success of the factory depends a Dashboard The data is represented visually lot on the quality and the quantity Shopfloor success is supplemented at the end of the line or in the of metrics that are measured and by creating visual dashboards that visual information centre, enabling frequency of their review on the display the trend of important transparency and problem-solving. production floor. If the factory metrics over a period of time. These Lean measurements help sustain meets production targets on an metrics are either measured daily Lean Culture in the organization. hourly basis it can meet monthly or on an hourly basis and review of Sustenance of Lean Culture largely targets with ease. the same serves to institutionalize depends on Daily Accountability, a problem-solving culture in the Current scenario Visual Management and Leader organization. Table 1 summarizes Standard Work. of performance the dashboard metrics under measurement on various SQDCME elements of Accidents Per Day apparel manufacturing production management. The accidents per day on the floor shopfloor The review frequency of the metric are depicted on the Safety Cross. Performance measurement on depends on its impact on the floor The Safety Cross consists of 31 days the shopfloor is typically limited performance. Review of jobs per of the month divided into the cross

28 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com Tech Talk

and marked with green if no Sewing and Finishing, accident has occurred and and the FTT for each of with red, if there is an accident. these departments is The purpose of maintaining 90%, 90% and 90%. Safety Cross is to: The FTT% for the entire Table 1: Dashboard metrics under various SQDCME • Promote a mindset of production line would be: elements of production management safety in every employee. 0.9 x 0.9 x 0.9 x 100 = 0.729 x 100 = 72.9% Elements Metric Review When • Promote the vision of Frequency making the workplace a It means that only 72.9% of Accidents per day Daily Morning meeting safe one. the garments move through Safety • Boost employee morale. the production line without Near Miss Daily Morning meeting being reworked. • Take countermeasures to FTT% (First Time Daily Morning meeting Through) ensure that accidents of Rejection Quality that type do not recur. Rejections Every hour Top of the hour The manufacturing team Near Miss tracks rejection on an hourly Jobs per hour Every hour Top of the hour basis and typically sums it up Data analysis of accidents Volume per day Daily Morning meeting for the day. Delivery suggests that for every 300 OEE% Daily Morning meeting no-injury incidents, there is The purpose of tracking one serious injury. Near Miss is rejections is to: WIP to SWIP ratio Daily Morning meeting a situation where an accident • Understand the hourly Hours per unit Weekly Weekly meeting was avoided but probability of quality trend per hour. Cost Units per person First Meeting Morning meeting an accident was on. To avoid • Discuss the root cause of serious accident in the future, rejections on an hourly Absenteeism% First Meeting Morning meeting Morale a Near Miss must be reported. basis. Attrition% Weekly Morning meeting The purpose of reporting a • Trace the abnormality to Environment 5S audit score Weekly Morning meeting Near Miss is to: the point of origin. • Take countermeasures to • Take countermeasures to address the same and avoid an accident in future. Table 2: A typical hourly jobs per hour report • Encourage a safety mindset prevent recurrence. among employees. Time Plan Actual Plan Actual Variance Remarks Jobs Per Hour Cum. Cum. (+/-) • Boost employees’ morale. A manufacturing production 8.00- Bottlenecks in 60 55 60 55 -5 First Time Through floor typically tracks the 9.00 Machine A output at the end of the line 9.00- FTT expressed in terms of per 60 55 120 110 -10 or end of department on an 10.00 cent is measured to check hourly basis. It is often referred 10.00- whether the products are 60 40 180 150 -30 to as ‘jobs per hour’ or simply 11.00 manufactured right first time. as ‘hourly production’. 11.00- High rejection The purpose of tracking 60 55 240 205 -35 The purpose of tracking jobs 12.00 this hour FTT is to: per hour is to: 1.00- • Determine the ability of the 60 60 300 265 -35 • Determine the ability of the 2.00 unit to manufacture right department to meet the 2.00- first time. 60 65 360 330 -30 Takt Time. 3.00 • Expose the hidden factory • Provide timely/ 3.00- 60 70 420 400 -20 (scrap, rework, rejections). fast feedback on the 4.00 • Measure the effectiveness bottlenecks and problems 4.00- 60 55 480 455 -25 of standardized work (non- that should be fixed. 5.00 varying cycle times). • Collate data to understand • Focus on capability of the causes of failure and process. develop countermeasures Example: Assuming that to prevent recurrence. an apparel is produced • Resolve problems that simplistically in sequential prevent department from operations like Cutting, achieving the Takt Time.

www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 29 Tech Talk

Success of the factory depends a lot on the quality and the quantity of metrics that are measured and frequency of their review on the production floor.

Volume Per Day therefore overproduction. (Total Available Time) = • Use data to set If the ratio is less than one, (400-100)/400 = 300/400 = performance A manufacturing production then there could be starving 0.75 improvement targets. floor typically tracks the in the system and therefore • Consider overtime hours output at the end of the line or Performance = Actual Output/ underproduction. It is also to get correct estimate of end of department at the end Target Output = 500/700 = possible that the cycle time is labour used to produce of the day. It is often referred 0.71 more than the Takt Time. the given output. to as daily volume or volume Quality = Good Output/Actual produced on that day. OEE% Output = 450/500 = 0.9 If a jacket sewing line produces 500 jackets with The purpose of volume OEE% = 0.75 x 0.71 x 0.9 = OEE% tracks the ability 120 people (8 hours per per day is to: 47. 92% of machines in the cell to person) and overtime hours • Determine the ability of the produce the product in the The OEE% must be as high amount to 50 hours, then department to meet the right time and with the right as possible. While there is no the hours per unit = (12x8) + daily volume. quality. benchmark anything above 50/500 = 2.2 hours per unit. • Provide feedback on The purpose of tracking 80-85% is considered to be capability of line or OEE% is to: good. 5S Audit Score department to meet • Support total productive Workplace organization is daily requirements. Units Per Person maintenance. paramount to creating a • Collate data to understand Units per person measures the world-class factory. Often • Reduce machine down causes of failure and numbers of units produced by it is the most ignored time. develop countermeasures one person. element of Production • Improve settings on the to prevent recurrence. The purpose of tracking Management. Usually a machine. • Resolve problems that units per person is to: Scoring checklist is used to prevent department • Improve process note the score against each • Ensure that productivity of from meeting daily capability. line item on 5S. the value stream increases volume target. The machine data for steadily over the time. A very good score is above overlock machine is as 80 out of 100. We could keep • Use data to set WIP to SWIP Report follows: the frequency of 5S score performance improvement WIP to SWIP Report shows the calculation for one week. Net Operating Time: 400 targets. inventory of the product in the minutes The purpose of computing cells. SWIP is Standard Work If a jacket sewing line Running Time: 300 minutes 5S score is to: in Progress and WIP is Work produces 500 jackets with 120 (deduct breakdowns and • Promote cleanliness in in Progress. people, the units per person setup time) or productivity per person is the plant. The purpose of tracking WIP Actual Output: 500 parts 500/120, i.e. 4.16 jackets per • Create a safe and to SWIP report is to: person. productive workplace. Target Output: 700 parts Determine the inventory (losses due to minor • Reduce searching time. balance on the Hours Per Units stoppages and reduced • Boost employees’ morale. production line. speed of working) Hours per unit measures Daily accountability, Visual • Measure the effectiveness the number of labour hours Good Output: 450 parts Management and Leader of the pull system. required to produce one unit. Standard Work lead to • Support workplace Actual Output: 500 parts The purpose of tracking sustaining a lean culture that organization. OEE% = (Availability x hours per unit is to: focuses on problem-solving. • The WIP to 3SWIP ratio is Performance x Quality) x • Ensure that the One tool that reinforces daily (24/20) = 1.2 100% productivity of the value accountability is ‘meetings’ If the ratio is greater than one, Availability = (Total Available stream increases steadily – morning meetings and there is more inventory and Time - Breakdown Time)/ over time. hourly meetings.

30 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com Tech Talk

WIP to SWIP ratio Expected output from should ask the following the morning meeting: questions: • Clear plan for the day. How well did we do in the last Standard WIP is 20 pieces (one in each workstation, 3 at entry hour? point and 3 at exit point • Who will do what and when? Did we face any quality issues? The meeting must not be WIP on a Monday was calculated and was found to be 24 pieces longer than 10-15 minutes. What is the root cause of the issues? Advantages of team Who will ensure that problem morning meetings: Recommended • Are we staffed is fixed in the next hour? Agenda for adequately? • Reduce communication Did we face any output time. Morning Meetings • How do we address issues? quality issues? • Ensure team alignment on How do we overcome the The Supervisor, after KPI’s. • Any bottlenecks we bottleneck if any? the manning of the faced for volume • Encourages team work. production line, should Who will do what and when delivery yesterday? • Improve team problem conduct a morning in the next hour? • How was the solving. meeting. He should productivity? • Impact KPI’s positively. ask the following in this Expected output • Any absenteeism sequence: Recommended from the morning today or yesterday? meeting: How well did we do • Any planned changes agenda for Hourly yesterday? today like layout, etc.? Meetings: Clear Plan for the next hour Today’s targets and plan: • Do we have any The supervisor or the team Who will do what and when? • Any safety accidents or concerns? leader will hold this meeting The meeting must not be near misses yesterday? Who will do what and when? every production hour. He longer than 5-10 minutes.

www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 31 Tech Event

The only show for players in the lingerie and intimate wear supply chain – ‘Galleria Intima’, organised by Intimate Apparel Association of India (IAAI), Mumbai, completed five years of its establishment at the recently held New Delhi edition. The exhibition, which witnessed good participation from over 50 companies in the fabrics, accessories and technology segments of the industry, mainly from India and China, noted good visitation of many intimate wear manufacturers from across the country.

Galleria Intima 2016 showcases latest technologies for innerwear

ll segments of the industry, be it exporters, Abig or small brands, or even unorganised players, appeared happy as the industry is growing and the expectation is that it will grow further, irrespective of all odds. “Most of the companies in this sector are growing in double digit; so we are happy that we are into this trade, which is consistently growing. Even my company is expecting more than 25 per cent growth in the coming year. It further has Visitors at Galleria Intima 2016 immense potential and scope,” shares Rakesh Grover, MD, Groversons Apparel, Delhi and Amongst a variety of fabrics HCA mentioned, “The visitors President, IAAI. and digital printers, lingerie/ have the motive of saving labour The intimate wear industry in India intimate wear-centric production cost, which is an incentive for has come a long way from being technology was also highlighted, them to look for technology,” branded as manufacturers of a with companies exhibiting while stating that the focus of their utility product to being a fashion both their existing technologies exhibits is to counter these factors. industry. The products on display with new attachments, and The company presented strip at the fair also reflected the same. new developments especially inserting machine (MHA-FST200) Along with the exhibition, the made keeping this industry in from HAMS. It takes only 1.5 fair hosted seminars and panel mind. Hari Chand Anand & Co seconds for the operation (per discussions on ‘Intimate Wear (HCA), showcased strip inserting strip) and successfully increases 2020’ and the ‘Use of Technology machine and elastic attachment output while using less workers; in Manufacturing’, to keep up machine specific to the lingerie the same operation takes up to with the possible automations in segment. Ombir Chauhan, DGM- 15-20 seconds per strip when the industry. Technical Sales representing conducted manually.

32 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com Tech Event

Also on display was a machine semi-dry technology and a fabric trimmer (Model- MF- which was on display, allows for inner elastic attachment direct-drive motor, which 7500-E11) that allows the precise seam making by using cylinder bed machine was promoted for the knit operator to adjust the material tape. The machine uses a (GG0068-1) from Highland segment earlier. Keeping up being fed into the machine, mechanical high-speed knife with an additional attachment with the theme, Juki presented particularly according to to trim the fabric edge. It will of the brand – Racing, the latest addition in their the material in use. The be upgraded in the future designed to sew the 3-step bar-tack machine line, with tape feeder is a standard with ultrasonic trimming to zigzag stitch in underwear and model-LK-1900BB, the world’s attachment by Juki and is sold provide an anti-fraying cut bra. To aid strip cutting and first sewing machine that along with the machine. edge to the fabric. With a elastic cutting, the company eliminates ‘bird’s nest’ – the A unique inclusion to the maximum sealing speed of 30 also exhibited the cold cutting phenomenon where thread existing DDL-9000 series by feet per minute, the machine (DY-120L) and heat cutting tangles under the Juki is DDL-9000C, featuring comes with a convertible (DY-120H) machines from machine bed. Also a feature the short thread trimming platform which makes it Duke. Cold-cutting machine in the machine is a shorter attribute and the latest easy to deal with different simply cuts the fabric, while thread remaining function, technology where machine complex structures, and offers the heat-cutting machine also which gives a soft and smooth settings can be duplicated differential speed top and seals the edges by fusing them feeling to the bar-tacking using NFC technology. bottom rollers. Working on together, which upon cooling sections in intimate wear Elaborating on the new 2D as well as 3D construction down becomes hard. Usage of articles, such as brassieres and technology, Prasoon Kumar is easy with this machine and heat cutting machine depends tank tops, as those seams are Singh said, “The best part both straight and curved on the type of product that in direct contact of the body. about this machine is that it seams can be obtained from it.

Yamanaka Toshiyuki, Managing Director and Lalit Khosla, General Manager – Operations, Anand Kumar, Executive Director and Prakhar, Prasoon Kumar Singh, Assistant Manager Industrial Sewing Division, Magnum Resources Country Manager (India & Bangladesh), Technical, Juki India G. A. Morgan Dynamics Pvt. Ltd. is being manufactured; it is The function leaves only 2 mm will be maintenance-free. For Also present at the fair, usually used for bags. The thread at the end of the stitch, instance, the settings from one Magnum Resources however machine also features a tape nearly reducing more than machine can be transferred displayed machines not feeder, which is used to relax 50 per cent of the length left into numerous machines specific to lingerie or intimate the elastic or tape when being behind by normal machines, via a tablet.” This will save apparel. It presented the stitched in the seam. which is more than 4 mm. This production time by reducing FS700P Series by Pegasus, Participating for the first saves labour and rework, as the interference of the a machine specifically time, Juki India, represented sometimes, while trimming technician required in each designed for critical by Prasoon Kumar Singh, the loose thread, the operator and every machine whenever operations. Equipped with Assistant Manager – cuts through the fabric itself, there is a style change. a completely enclosed Technical of Juki India tested resulting in the requirement of H&H’s bonding machines, needle drive the lingerie manufacturing part changing. marketed by Juki in India, were mechanism, FS700P is a market with their latest Another introduction is also exhibited at the event. 4-needle, feed-off-the-arm, developments in over-lock the elastic lace attachment The Sewfree tape laydown interlock stitch machine and flat-lock machines with machine with right hand + trimmer machine (SF 013), used for flat seaming. It

www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 33 Tech Event

for further automation upon a satisfactory return on certain investment.” The company plans to launch their new innovation, a 3D software, a complete state-of-the-art software, for virtual imaging in the coming months. Focusing on the specialized and advanced machines rather than basic models, Mehala introduced an inner-elastic sewing machine by Siruba, which can eliminate the operation of serging and help in attaching side elastic in Nicky Yu (2nd from left), Regional Manager (Taiwan) – Overseas Sales Department, Siruba and MP Maharajan (4th from left), Regional Manager, Mehala with his team panties directly by the flat-lock machine itself. It eliminates one operation, protects the sewn products explains Lalit Khosla, GM varying thickness. Equipped reducing one machine and against oil leakage and oil – Operations, Industrial with Bump sensor that senses its consumables. The machine splashes through “Oil Barrier” Sewing Machine Division, the thickness of the fabric also gives tiny finishing, so attached to various areas. Magnum Resources. and automatically adjusts the the product looks nice. The machine easily sews Another attraction for stitch, it reduces puckering In addition to this, the cross seam sections of the technology seekers was the and roping effect on bottom machines displayed by the overlapped areas with the Brother S-7300A-DigiFlex hemming. A movable company include over- help of its unique presser Feed, a newly launched single trimming mechanism leaves lock machine with newly foot with the groove on needle direct-drive lock less than 3 mm thread at introduced chain-cutting its underside, resulting in stitch sewing machine with the end of seam, leaving no attachment. It is a small flat and gentle finishing. electronic feeding system chance for manual trimming attachment and can be “This multifunctional replacing the manually along with the minimum easily used by the operator, machine saves time and adjusted feed system in lubrication system that while giving a nice and clean labour as it combines the earlier machines. The feed eradicates any chance of thread trimming. It replaces operation of over-locking motion can be interchanged. stained garments. The user- the old attachment used for a seam and then flat The machine can join fabrics intuitive colour LCD with the same purpose, which locking it, and delivering of variable thickness with touch panel enables the user was big and disrupted the high quality finish and stitch length remaining to select feed motion type operator’s work, hence easing consistent stitches,” constant even at areas with from 4 kinds of motion and his job and de-cluttering store up to 9 sewing patterns. his workstation. Morgan Tecnica participated Nicky Yu, Regional Manager, at the show to reach out to Siruba mentioned, “We medium-level manufacturers hope to increase our who are only found in market share in India Delhi-NCR but even in with our latest offerings,” townships around the capital. to which MP Maharajan, Prakhar, Country Manager Regional Manager – Mehala India & Bangladesh, Morgan adds that to establish the Tecnica said, “We offer trust and level of quality our solutions to small of the machines, the companies too, providing customer is shown a sample them an ideal opportunity or a demo of the machine to go for expansion with to test it personally, higher returns. It is a step- establishing the standard by-step solution, giving Siruba’s three-needle five-thread flatbed elastic inserting and of the machines by first- binding machine them the liberty of going hand experience.

34 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com Stitch World

35 www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 35 Tech Review

Finding technology that is adaptive to existing machinery is a troublesome task, as each piece of appliance has its own software or platform that it works on, which may or may not interact with another format. This causes trouble in the cutting room, where there are multiple tasks that need to be accomplished which can all be automated, and would need minimum possible human involvement. With the aim of setting up complete cutting rooms, rather than just dealing in spreaders and cutters, in an interview with Team StitchWorld, Serkon Makina proposes to the industry the concept of automated and fully interactive cutting rooms.

Serkon Makina Automatic Fabric Spreaders and Cutters

urchasing an automatic facilitating a width of 3.4 metres, and new software for our spreader or a CNC cutter is a rarity from brands developing customers, both of which are Pan important decision for automatic spreaders. It already has customized for each client. any apparel manufacturer as it a wide-spread market in Europe Reasonable prices make us very takes into account a huge financial and is looking forward to setting much competitive with other investment. Once the decision is up offices in Asia and South suppliers, even though we make made, then comes the search for America in the coming years. our machines, the software and the perfect machine that would While talking to SW, Burak the hardware in Turkey.” be compatible with all other Uysal, Sales and Marketing Working through various technologies which have been Coordinator for Serkon Makina agents in different countries pre-installed in the manufacturing informs, “We are quite flexible, – Nhat Tin Technology J.S.C in setup. That’s where Turkey’s in terms of application. We Vietnam, Texcom Autocrafts leading company Serkon Makina make smaller machines Ltd. in Bangladesh, Centra Java comes to the rescue with their cutting room arrangements. With major market share from Bangladesh, Vietnam and Indonesia, Serkon Makina, is paving its footprint in India also through Tirupur and Kolkata with plans to enter the Delhi and Bombay markets also. An ISO 9001:2008 and OHSAS 18001:2007 certified company, Serkon Makina deals in wide variety of applications for garment setups, specifically: cutting rooms, pin tables, software, hanger systems, computerized tables and air tables. The company specializes in wide Burak Uysal, Sales and Marketing Coordinator, Serkon Makina and N. Senthil Kumar, width spreaders for home textiles, Managing Director, Rainbow Garment Machines

36 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com Tech Review

Capable of operating at the speed of 100 m/min with a cutting height of up to 90 cm, the MH 1 for home textiles has a cutting width ranging from 1.6 metres to 2.4 metres, viable for wide fabrics used in manufacturing home furnishings. Integrated with Windows platform, the machine is compatible with all CAD systems and can select the pieces not to be cut and bypass them during cutting.

in Indonesia, and Rainbow 100 metres/minute and has Garment Machines in India, a spreading height of 0.25 the company’s main focus is metres with cutting device. on servicing the industry for This automatic spreader has which it trains technicians a table width ranging from to provide effective and 2.8 metres to 3.6 metres responsive services to their with allowed fabric width customers, as the machines available from 2.6 metres would require constant to 3.4 metre. It can handle maintenance and have critical roll diameter of 0.65 metres. consumable parts which are Besides this, the machine not always readily available in can spread woven and knit the market. fabrics in roll or flat-fold form weighing up to 300 According to N. Senthil Automatic fabric spreader for home textiles – MH 1 Kumar, Managing Director kgs without tension and of Rainbow Garment edges are aligned perfectly. Machines, one of the The cradle feed system tilts machine agents for Serkon for easy fabric roll loading/ in India, “Everyone in the unloading and eliminates apparel industry is looking the use of a fabric roll bar. for automation due to Its multi-function throttle increasing labour wages enables the operator and to attain better quality to control threading or a machine can provide. rewinding of fabric. The company will focus on The operator can control the marketing cutting solutions spreading with one hand and machines in India, and while riding alongside the will soon cover the whole table. The electronic edge Southern area of India,” control is responsive to adding, “A big selling point for variable speed at forward/ Automatic fabric cutter MC 90 any machinery is the post- backward turns, thus saving sales services that a company time. In a case of emergency, provides, a fact that Serkon it stops automatically with Makina takes pride in, and the help of safety sensors. Automatic provides the best features along with a great marketing Apart from multi-length Fabric Cutters of CNC cutter. Operating at strategy, the company can spreading modes with the speed of 100 m/min with capture the market in India in ply counter, it allows the Automatic fabric cutters a cutting height up to 0.09 2-3 years.” automatic pre-centring of are provided in a range of metres, this automatic cutter material beginning during 3 models – MC 50-30, MC 80- has a cutting width available MH 1, a 3.4 m wide threading. The simplified 70 and MC 90, which are the from 1.6 metres to 2.4 metres. fully automatic LCD touchscreen display latest addition to the cutting Integrated with Windows machines’ collection. fabric spreader for with PLC unit is quick to platform, MC 90 is compatible learn, storing 50 different with all CAD systems and home textiles MC 90 cuts at the can select the pieces not fabric set up files for quick speed of 100 m/min Fully automatic fabric retrieval to accelerate future to be cut and bypass them spreading machine Master spreading jobs available in Other than just being ‘quiet’ during cutting. Home Textile MH 1 operates Turkish, English and other machines, with the noise Allowing different cutting at the spreading speed of foreign languages. level below 80 dBA, MC 90 options like butterfly,

www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 37 Tech Review

MC 80-70 CNC cutter fabric is incorporated with an Intelligent Knife System which senses deflection of the knife while cutting high-ply spreads and changes the knife’s angle to compensate for the deflection. Common for all automatic cutters of Serkon Makina, there is a user- friendly keypad which controls many machine’s functions at the cutter.

mixed-cut, clockwise and achieve outstanding material anticlockwise, it can be utilization. The Lateral Travel displaced crosswise. It has the Kit in this CNC cutter enables ability to manage, convert and the cutter to move between transform all kinds of notches, multiple spreading tables. i.e. normal, V-notch and fly MC 80-70 is designed to notch, allowing the operator cool down the knife with a to change the bite size, if vortex tube to reduce fusing needed. A re-sealer can be between plies while cutting. used to avoid vacuum losses. MC 50-30 cuts ply The blower system holds the material firmly in place during height as low as the cutting process delivering 0.03 metre cut parts that are accurate Conveyorized automatic fabric to ply. The blade monitoring cutting machine MC 50-30 MC 80-70 cuts upto 0.08m high ply system detects the abrasion of cuts at the speed of 80 m/ the blade and automatically min with a cutting height stops working needing of 0.03 m-0.05 m. The fabric replacement. It can change the cutting width available is radius of patterns at corners, from 1.6 metres to 2.8 metres. suggesting that the knife goes Its long lasting bristles up if there is a sharp corner allow the knife to penetrate which eventually increases without damaging the fabric. the cutting quality and is Ensuring quality in cut parts considered a very efficient from top to bottom ply, its feature for suit manufacturers. automatic knife re-sharpening It resumes cutting from eliminates hanging threads. hibernation if any kind of The machine includes a user- disturbance persists. friendly keypad which controls

MC 50-30 cuts at speed of 80m/min functioning of the cutting MC 80-70 with head. Additionally, software Intelligent Knife and operating manuals are System available in Turkish, English This special CNC operates and other foreign languages. at the speed of 80 m/min Manufacturing the machines with a cutting height up in Europe ensures the quality to 0.08 metres. The fabric of the parts and guarantees cutting width available is that the product parts will not from 1.6 metres to 2.6 metres. fail untimely. The company MC 80-70 comes with an has already installed two full intelligent knife system which cutting rooms and will exhibit senses deflection of the the same as the showroom knife while cutting high-ply for other perspective clients. spreads and changes the Their reasonable pricing and Automatic knife re-sharpening eliminates hanging threads ensuring quality knife angle to compensate the ability to customize their cut parts from top to bottom ply for the deflection. It results in products give this company more accurately cut parts and an edge over others in nest parts closer together to Indian market!

38 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com Management Byte

Every professional aspires for career enhancement. But career enhancement isn’t that easy a task! One needs to provide greater deliverables and be better at handling job responsibilities besides having a requisite experience. Without all these characteristics, no company will promote a person to a managerial or higher position. Enrolling for a small training course certainly helps in enhancing a person’s credibility in the area of expertise. Through its career enhancement series, StitchWorld is discussing various certifications in discipline that may help to improve working in the garment industry. In the previous edition, 5S training institutes were in focus, and in the current edition training and certification courses in lean manufacturing are discussed in detail.

Career-oriented training programme for apparel industry professionals – IV Lean Manufacturing Training Institutes

he most buzzing terminology change. Lean manufacturing is a set TUVNord is based out of Tin the industry – ‘Lean of ‘tools’ – Value Stream Mapping, Mumbai, India and provides lean Manufacturing’ is a systematic 5S, Kanban (pull system), and Poka- manufacturing training course method to provide benefits with yoke that assist in the identification that gives an opportunity to learn maximum waste elimination and easy elimination of the waste the fundamental principles of within a manufacturing system. A (muda). Another approach to lean Lean Manufacturing. huge number of industries have manufacturing is promoted by The course covers the concepts adopted lean manufacturing and Toyota, where the focus is shifted of lean management, lean many others are attempting to from elimination of waste towards management principles, concept of implement it through consultants. steady elimination of unevenness flow and continual improvement, Lean manufacturing is a philosophy (mura) from the work by improving and basic requirements of lean that outlines multi-dimensional the ‘flow’ or smoothness of work and its interpretation. It is a highly approach towards waste through the system. interactive course that includes a elimination by being applied to series of lectures with individuals/ everyday operations, strategies, Centres for Lean syndicate exercises for three days customer satisfaction, manpower Manufacturing Training and review of practice project on training, etc. The core idea is to the fourth day (after a month) for minimize any kind of waste that Programmes better learning. do not add value to the product and provide customer with a Top- and middle-level management defect-free product or service TUVNORD personnel from any kind of industry when required and in the quality can enrol for the training course… (http://www.tuv-nord.com/in/training/ From executives and managers from as required through a continuous lean-manufacturing-1413.htm#) improvement process. Lean needs the production, maintenance, quality to be fed from top management to • The course duration is three days. and materials departments to quality the bottom-most level. Everyone • It is an online course. managers or quality management within the organization needs to • The individuals can enrol for the consultants can also join the know how they can benefit from course at any time of the year. training course. ‘lean manufacturing’. • It’s a free course. The course provides detailed The key principles of lean information on: lean manufacturing are: focus on • Once the individual successfully management, history of lean and product value; elimination of passes the courses, he/she receives TPS, the 7 wastes and techniques waste; continuous improvement a TUV India Certificate. to eliminate wastes, JIDOKA and standardization; driven by • Since, it’s an online course, there is (AUTOMATION), poka-yoke, Kanban, customer need; and culture of no particular batch size. 5S, Kaizen, VSM, etc. At the end, there

www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 39 Management Byte

is a written examination, successfully The course has been licensed by within the company and industry passing of which enables the NPTEL OpenCourseWare. by demonstrating the commitment candidate for the TUVIndia Certificate, towards the lean process. allowing the person to apply the lean Lean Certification is an tools to a live practice project. SME evolutionary journey that makes knowledge and experience work (http://www.sme.org/lean-certification. aspx) together and hence form depth ALISON of expertise. The three Lean • The certification examination is Certifications – Lean Bronze, Silver https://alison.com/courses/lean- in MCQ format and time allotted and Gold Certifications are valid for 3 manufacturing-line-balancing-and- to complete the exam is 3 hours. facilities-location) years. To get Lean Bronze Certification • The exam is conducted both one must learn the fundamentals of • Duration of the course is 2-3 hours. online and offline (pen-paper). lean from a tactical perspective. For • It’s an online course. • The individual can take the exam Lean Silver Certification, one needs • The individuals can enrol for the at any time of the year. to integrate the lean knowledge courses at any time of the year. with leadership experience and • The fee varies between US for Lean Gold Certification, lean • The course is free of cost. $ 339 to US $ 699 for online knowledge needs to be applied into a • Once passing the course exams whereas, it ranges strategic transformation. with minimum of 80% marks, between US $ 339 and US $ 729 the individual receives an for pen-paper exams. ALISON certificate. • The exams can be conducted INSEAD • There is no fixed batch size. anywhere under the supervision of Exam Proctor. • Sponsored lean training ALISON, with its headquarters in programme. Ireland, is a seven million-strong, • The certificate is valid for 3 years. • Duration: 7 weeks. global online learning community SME, based out of Michigan, which has free and high-quality North America in collaboration INSEAD, graduate business online education resources that help with ASQ, AME, and SHINGO school with campuses in Europe in developing essential and certified Institute, provides Lean (Fontainebleau, France), Asia workplace skills. One such course Certification to individuals and (Singapore), and the Middle provided by Alison is the online Lean companies. The Lean Certification East (Abu Dhabi), offers various Manufacturing Course that introduces is a certification programme that academic and executive education the process of line balancing in provide individuals, companies, and programmes. INSEAD Business School lean manufacturing. The course educators with a comprehensive conducts a “Fast Track” Executive Education Programme, specializing begins by introducing the concept and effective roadmap for in lean manufacturing systems. The of line balancing and explains the professional and workforce training programme was especially terminologies associated with it and development that aligns with customized for MAS Holdings. The can be enrolled at any time of the year. industry-recognized standards. 7-week long training programme The course will be of great interest Lean Certification not only helps includes a week of lectures and six for professionals working in the you attain the knowledge, it weeks of assignments that have to area of operations management validates it. be implemented on the shop floor. and lean production. The officials The Lean Certification candidates The successful implementation of will be able to learn more about will be able to encounter a more the lean manufacturing practices lean manufacturing, line balancing streamlined process in achieving in the industry (assignments) leads and facilities location, and certification as the hierarchical to completion of the training and operations management. requirements have been eliminated, a certification. One can qualify for the ALISON allowing the candidate to obtain Diploma/Certificate by studying certification at a rank which is and completing all the modules and most appropriate to the career, Also Read... scoring 80% or more in each of the knowledge and experience. 1. Six Sigma The lean certification will validate course assessment. Once the enrolled StitchWorld March 2014 professional completes the course, the candidate’s knowledge and 2. 5S – First step towards LEAN application of industry-recognised he/she will be able to assess the line StitchWorld April 2014 balancing problems, qualitative factors lean principle and tools, enhance 3. Enegry Audits in determining the location of facilities, the career prospects along with StitchWorld October 2014 and apply lean tools in the industry. improving the marketability

40 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com Tech Reads

TECH READS – IV An apparel factory is a dynamic classroom. The managers must be alert as lessons flow in from all directions – from bottlenecks that need to be resolved to targets that must be met and everything in-between and beyond. Sometimes, the same managers also need a retreat to a repository of wisdom to take a fresh perspective on shaping businesses. To make matters easy when it comes to choosing the source of wisdom, StitchWorld curates a list of ‘must-reads’ for apparel manufacturing managers, hand- picked by industry experts to regularly keep you updated.

drugstore in Fort Lauderdale, Florida; involves disrupting an apparent THE TRAVELS OF and eventually makes its way to thinking sequence and arriving at A T-SHIRT IN THE a used clothing market in Africa. the solution from another angle. GLOBAL ECONOMY Through the story of her T-shirt, Rivoli Developing breakthrough ideas does BY PIETRA RIVOLI shows how the advocates and critics not have to be the result of luck or a of globalization often oversimplify the shotgun effort. Dr. de Bono’s proven Recommended by Deepak Mohindra, issues behind international trade. Lateral Thinking methods provide a Editor-In-Chief, Apparel Resources Review: Part travelogue, part history, deliberate, systematic process that will result in innovative thinking. Why to read ‘The Travels of a and part economics, ‘The Travels T-Shirt in the Global Economy’? of a T–Shirt in the Global Economy’ Creative thinking is not a talent, it’s a is all storytelling in a grand style. skill that can be learned. It empowers The book presents a story of Globalization critics who read this book people by adding strength to their globalization that not only provides will understand why it is impossible to natural abilities, which improves insight into a single product on lift countries out of poverty without creativity and innovation, leading to its global journey through many the power of free markets, while increased productivity and profit. economies, but also brings to light the policymakers will learn the equally Excerpt: “Vertical thinking is selection people who make a living from that bracing lesson that economic progress by exclusion. One works within a journey. By telling the human tales for the wealthiest of nations means frame of reference and throws out beneath the economics and politics nothing without the democratic what is not relevant. With lateral of globalization, the author offers political institutions that uplift the thinking one realizes that a pattern a timely, compelling and relevant poorest of nations. It’s a ‘must-read’! cannot be restructured from within story. Business Professor, Pietra Rivoli itself but only as the result of some explores the politics and the human outside influence. So one welcomes element behind the globalization LATERAL THINKING outside influences for their provocative debate by tracking the life story of BY EDWARD DE BONO action. The more irrelevant such her US $ 6 T-shirt. influences are, the more chance Starting in a West Texas cotton Recommended by S Badri Narayana, there is of altering the established Managing Director and Chief Consultant, field, her T-shirt is brought to life pattern. To look only for things that FLAME TAO Knoware in a Chinese factory; negotiated in are relevant means perpetuating the Washington, DC; sold in a Walgreen's Why to read ‘Lateral Thinking’? current pattern.” What do businesses need today...? A new way of thinking that opens a door they didn’t even know exist, a way of thinking that seeks a solution to an intractable problem through unorthodox methods or elements that would normally be ignored by logical thinking. They need ‘Lateral Thinking’. Dr. Edward de Bono divides thinking into two methods. He calls one ‘vertical thinking’, which uses the processes of logic – the traditional and historical method; and the other ‘lateral thinking’, which

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