SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA
FOOD FUN COOKING CLASSES EXPLORE ISLAND TOURS ART SUTTER STREET ITINERARY
Big Bang Ferrari. Titanium case inspired by the brands’ iconic lines. In-house UNICO chronograph. Interchangeable strap with a patented attachment. Limited edition of 1000 pieces.
MARCH 2018 Keep it classic at hublot.com wheretraveler.com Harris’ Steakhouse. THE DATEJUST
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150 POST STREET, SAN FRANCISCO (415) 421-2600 STANFORD SHOPPING CENTER, PALO ALTO (650) 327-2211
rolex oyster perpetual and datejust are ® trademarks. OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST 31 in theSanFrancisco Bay Sunset over Alcatraz Island March Where San Francisco dining. ©DanielMorris Ness Ave. isclassic steakhouse Harris’ Restaurant at2100Van 24 10 80 8 6 28 Neighborhoods: 12 Sync withtheurbanrhythm. Day Trip isles worth exploring. water isdotted withfascinating water onthree sides,andthat San Francisco issurrounded by 26 16 The top events onourradar Tea Garden Instagramming theJapanese 22 movie theaters and thecity'smost interesting to spotgray whales thisspring Great cooking classes, where COVER PROMOTION BY ISLANDS
58 42 34 46 38 ASK THE EXPERT EDITOR‘S NOTE THE FIX
ONE BLOCK. ONE DAY TOP 5 TOP AROUND THE BAY A CITY SURROUNDED SURROUNDED A CITY CALENDAR #SANFRANCISCO INSIDER Wine Country Food Scene Art Shop : TheSonomaCoast
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COURTESY SF TRAVEL
YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®
SAN FRANCISCO
PUBLISHER Nikki Wood ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Nanci Davies 415.901.6267 Mary Goll 415.901.6266 CIRCULATION, MARKETING & EVENTS MANAGER Catherine Pastuhov MARKETING COORDINATOR Lindsay Poole BUSINESS MANAGER Justin Birnstihl SALES SUPPORT ADMINISTRATOR Megan Rothenberg
MVP | EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Dennis Kelly Angela E. Allen ONE OF MY FAVORITE things to do is walk VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS REGIONAL VICE PRESIDENT, SALES Courtney Fuhrmann down to the Embarcadero and absorb DIGITAL OPERATIONS MANAGER Richard H. Brashear II the sights of the bay, especially at night, DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson
when a permanent art installation MVP | NATIONAL SALES lights up the Bay Bridge. One of my VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL INTEGRATED SALES Rebekah Valberg Liza Meneades favorite spots in the area is One Market. DIRECTOR OF NATIONAL SALES MANAGER, NATIONAL INTEGRATED SALES David Gately Just opposite the Ferry Building, this restaurant just celebrated its silver E-mails for all of the above except contributors: [email protected] anniversary. When you visit, more often than not, general manager and partner Larry Bouchard will greet you at the entrance with a warm smile. Serving award-winning farm-to-table cuisine (the grilled octopus and the bacon- wrapped pork tenderloin are two of my favorites!), it’s a sophisticated restaurant with a comfortable and friendly vibe. If it’s a libation that you’re seeking, pop into the bar for a glass of something from the impressive wine list and listen to some live jazz.
MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV
Nikki Wood Where® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Publisher, Where San Francisco Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. Where magazine and the logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.
4 WHERE I MARCH 2018 ® YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936 March 2018
SAN FRANCISCO ASHISH
This month’s issue includes a guide to the EDITORIAL & DESIGN Sonoma Coast, a destination that I was lucky EDITOR, SAN FRANCISCO Rachel Ward enough to visit for the third time earlier this year. ART DIRECTOR Dusty Martin
My fi rst visit was a day trip to Bodega Bay. I took MVP | CREATIVE in the view from Bodega Head—getting giddy CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson whenever I spotted a whale spouting or a sea lion SENIOR REGIONAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Margaret Martin sunbathing—and ate an order of excellent fi sh DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Isaac Arjonilla Beverly Mandelblatt tacos on the Fishetarian Fish Market’s patio. Top CREATIVE COORDINATOR memories from my second visit, for a bachelor- MVP | PUBLICATION SERVICES ette weekend, include an early morning walk on PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR Karen Fralick North Salmon Creek Beach and an epic sunset PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER Mickey Kibler Erik Lewis drive up Highway 1 for dinner at Coast Kitchen. DIGITAL IMAGING
On this latest trip, I had the chance to stay MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY overnight at Timber Cove Resort, where I took DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING Donald Horton in another Pacifi c sunset from the balcony of my E-mails for all of the above except contributors: room while sipping a glass of Fort Ross pinot noir. [email protected] I started off the next morning with a windy hike along cliff tops that plunged into the ocean. If it’s MVP | SAN FRANCISCO the California dream you’re in search of, I’d say 555 Montgomery St., Ste. 600, San Francisco, CA 94111 415.901.6260; 415.901.6261 (fax) this is a good place to start.
Rachel Ward Editor, San Francisco @wanderingrachel
#SeizeTheStay #wheretraveler connect with us #timbercoveresort wheretraveler.com/seizethestay
IN THE WORLD Where is an inter national network of magazines fi rst published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chi- MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS cago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Where® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/ Parry Sound, Ottawa, Where magazine and the logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.
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SAN FRANCISCO
1 NATURE Admire the spring tulip bloom at the Dutch windmill in Golden Gate Park.
2 CULTURE Visit the Chinese Culture Center on the third fl oor of the Hilton Hotel on Kearny Street.
3 MUSIC See a performance at SFJazz Center, a venue with the acoustic qualities of a great concert hall and the relaxed intimacy of a jazz club.
4 VIEW Admire the Diego Rivera murals and rooftop vista at the Spanish colonial San Francisco Art Institute campus.
5 Surrounded by a garden, the Dutch windmill stands next to WELLNESS Beach Chalet and across from Flight delayed? Ocean Beach. Practice your downward dog at
SFO’s Yoga Room. ZARIVNY ©SHUTTERSTOCK/ANDREW
March at a Glance
March 13-18 March 17 Bouquets to Art St. Patrick’s Day Festival This annual spring exhibit returns for its Don your best green 34th year, featuring a variety of elegant outfit for the largest and elaborate floral arrangements inspired St. Patrick’s Day event by the museum’s paintings, sculptures and west of the Mississippi. architecture. Bay Area and international The parade begins floral designers are featured in the exhibit, at 11:30 am, and the and a variety of events throughout the ensuing festival in Civic week include renowned guest speakers, Center Plaza features floral demonstrations, an opening gala live music, children’s and luncheons. 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden activities, food and
Dr., 415.750.3600 plenty of beer. HERALD ©IRISH ALTIZER/FAMSF; ©DREW TOP: FROM
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IN MARCH
Black Cuisine Festival (March 3) This soul food festival in the Bayview-Hunters Point neighborhood is back for its 37th year with down-home classics like fried chicken and fish, barbecue, greens, yams, beans and rice. It attracts more than 2,000 attendees.
Ocean Film Festival (March 8-11) Now in its 15th year, this annual festival presents more than 50 independent films from around the world that celebrate the beauty of the ocean.
International Chocolate Salon (March 11) The 11th annual event brings a day packed with chocolate tasting, demonstrations and chef and author talks with award-winning chocolatiers, confectioners and other culinary artisans.
Sonoma International Film Festival March 23-25 March 24 (March 21-25) Now in its 21st year, SIFF California Whiskies of the World features more than 90 hand- selected films, including Sample more than 200 varieties of Scotch, Bourbon, Irish, Artisan Cheese independent features, Canadian and other whiskies from around the world. documentaries, world cinema Festival The event also includes seminars and pairings of and short films. All films whiskey with food and cigars. San Francisco Belle are shown at venues within walking distance of Sonoma’s Hornblower yacht docked at Pier 3 The weekend-long historic plaza. celebration of handcrafted cheeses, wines and beers returns to Sonoma for “Daniel Tiger’s Neighborhood Live: three days of farm tours, King for a Day!” seminars, hands-on cheese- (March 24) making classes, competitions, This live show at SHN pairings and cooking Orpheum Theatre is based demonstrations. Sonoma on the hit PBS children’s television series and features County Event Center, 1350 new songs and lessons on Bennett Valley Rd., Santa kindness, helping others and
Rosa, 707.837.1928 being a friend. WORLD THE OF WHISKIES FESTIVAL; CHEESE ARTISAN CALIFORNIA COURTESY TOP: FROM
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A Tasty Education
18 Reasons Classes offer a foray into the food culture of San Francisco at this Mission cooking school owned by Bi-Rite, the celebrated gourmet grocer and ice cream shop.
Civic Kitchen The city’s newest cooking school hosts classes like Indian Street Food, Italy by Ingredient and the Wonders of Wonton FOOD at its shiny Mission campus. TIME FOR CLASS Four of San Francisco's best cooking schools
IT’S NO SECRET THAT THE BAY AREA is home to some of the world’s best restaurants, but the most memorable dish you try could be one that you make yourself. Culinary schools provide the guidance you need to learn Cozymeal about the ingredients and techniques that have made local chefs among the Local professional chefs lead classes at venues most celebrated in the world. The San Francisco Cooking School on busy throughout the Bay Area, from art galleries Van Ness Avenue off ers numerous one-day classes, including Cook the Book to the chefs’ homes. classes where you can master recipes from famous restaurant cookbooks, Farmers’ market cooking experiences are such as Chez Panisse, Kokkari and Zuni Café; or Best of the Bay classes, the most popular. which feature chefs from top restaurants like Delfi na, Mourad and State Bird Provisions. The cooking school also regularly hosts book signings, chef For more great food in the city visit
dinners, celebrity demonstrations and private cooking parties. wheretraveler.com COZYMEAL ©KASSIE BORRESON; DECOUDREAUX; ©MOLLY SCHOOL; COOKING SF COURTESY LEFT: TOP FROM CLOCKWISE
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EXPLORE Bodega Bay Head This peninsula juts out into the ocean, providing some of the best views in So- noma county. Volunteers staff the area GRAY WHALE on weekends with spotting scopes. Salt Point State Park SPOTTING Walking paths and drive-ins along this elevated stretch of coast provide Where to see the ocean giants on their annual migration frequent gray whale sightings.
THIS TIME OF YEAR, gray whales commute south from the icy Still Water Cove Regional Park Calm waters and wind protection make waters of the Arctic to reproduce in the warm lagoons of Baja this a popular spot for mothers to bring California and then return back north to feed with their calves their calves on their return trip north. in the Arctic. With countless accessible vantage points, from By the Numbers: shoreline to hills, the Sonoma Coast is one of the best spots to 15-18,000 number of gray whales migrating south catch the action. Point Reyes in Marin County is another prime 11,000 roughly the number of spot for whale spotting. Chimney Rock and the lighthouse offer miles grays migrate each year the finest views in the national park. On a good day, heret are up 45 Feet length of a male to 100 whale sightings. In both Sonoma and Marin, you might gray whale see a whale's majestic breach or its powerful tail slap, and it's 75,000 Pounds weight of a male gray whale not uncommon to find curious whales staring right back at you. 500 Pounds weight of a gray Grab your binoculars and read on for a look at some of the best whale's tongue
spots to get up-close and personal with the grays. 500 Feet how deep gray whales dive ©MISSING35MM/ISTOCK
18 WHERE I MARCH 2018 movie theaters, from screens historical single to st a shift to centrally located multiplexes. youris This hand street car lines spread and created more neighborhoo theaters (manydensity helped independent small, built fr the city. Here, of just about any restricted corner 20 IN SAN FRANCISCO well-heeled Fillmore Street, current foreign or art house house art or foreign current film at this charming single single charming this at film Catch an old classic or or classic old an Catch and then get dinner at at dinner get then and screen from 1910 on 1910 on from screen nearby restaurants. restaurants. nearby WHERE one of the many Clay Theatre Clay oro San Francisco’s most interesting movietheaters A tour of
I MARCH 2018 MARCH
CATCH A FLICK you’ll screenfinda to catcha big-budget or indie fl
your glass of wine or artisan artisan or wine of glass your Sundance Cinema Kabuki in addition to gourmet con gourmet to addition in in Japantown has a full bar bar afull has Japantown in and bistro on the balcony balcony the on bistro and showtimes you can bring bring can you showtimes This independentThis theater cessions, and for the +21 +21 the for and cessions, beer into the theater. INSIDER
land use and population - ate-of-the-art newcomer. ds) surviveds) the national book tobook the city’s a century-old movie palace palace movie a century-old in the Mission District, with with in the District, Mission a beloved local video rental rental video local a beloved food and drink is housed in in housed is drink and food This location of the theater theater the of location This chain known for serving serving for known chain shop operating out of a a of out operating shop om 1910-30 as the the as om 1910-30 Alamo Drafthouse kiosk in the lobby. lobby. the in kiosk ick in ick in spired by Mexican Mexican by spired sing-alongs, drag sing-alongs, drag Penn. It regularly Penn. It regularly San Francisco In Francisco San entertainment Castro neighbor Castro than 1,400 seats, seats, 1,400 than iconic retro neon neon retro iconic and hosts campy campy and hosts stage shows and and shows stage movie palace in palace movie to the symbolize visit tecture contains contains tecture ternational Film Film ternational cathedral archi cathedral ing shows) most 2008 world pre world 2008 more than more hood, and it was was it and hood, Festival events. miere of “Milk” chandelier. Its sign has come come has sign starring Sean Sean starring and an ornate ornate an and a spectacular a spectacular the site of the favorite films films favorite This Art Deco Deco Art This screens cult- organ (openorgan Castro Theatre Castro sinking pipe pipe sinking For more great Landmark Cinematic wheretraveler.com in the city in thecity -
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ©MARK HUESTIS/SF TRAVEL; ©SCOTT CHERNIS/SF TRAVEL; COURTESY ALAMO DRAFTHOUSE; ©CESAR RUBIO; ©ROSHAN VYAS/FLICKR
FIND THE BEST ON SUTTER STREET ONE BLOCK AT A TIME
SHOP pupu platter and creative cocktails like the Blushing The Alessi flagship is a won- Geisha. Pacific Cocktail derland for disciples of Ital- Haven offers a long list of ian industrial design, selling exceptional drinks, such as high-concept home goods the Swizzle my Nizzle and and kitchenware. A mother- the Tuk Tuk Tea. At Parisian- daughter team with a sharp influenced Gaspar Bras- eye for emerging global serie, vintage chandeliers, talent runs Ethos cloth- leather banquettes and a ing boutique. At Lang’s pressed tin ceiling create a Antique & Estate Jewelry, romantic setting for a date. browse baubles dating E&O Kitchen and Bar back to the late 1700s, from 314 Sutter St. rare engagement rings to Pacific Cocktail Haven Art Deco watches. In the 580 Sutter St. historic glass-front Hallidie Gaspar 185 Sutter St. Building, The Hound has CULTURE been a destination for refined menswear for more The only gallery of its kind than 40 years. The fairy tale in San Francisco, Montague Teuscher Chocolate shop Gallery features an expan- displays Swiss imports and sive roster of sought-after Champagne truffles. Devo- names in the contempo- tees to Korean skincare can rary fine art glass world, stock up on sheet masks at including Lino Tagliapietra, the tiny TonyMoly shop. Dante Marioni and Hiroshi Alessi 424 Sutter St. Yamano. Caldwell Snyder Ethos 333 Sutter St. Gallery has exposed new The Hound 140 Sutter St. collectors to established Lang’s Antique & Estate Latin American and Euro- Jewelry 309 Sutter St. pean painters and sculptors Tonymoly 500 Sutter St. who are lesser known Teuscher Chocolate 307 stateside. Open since 1984, Sutter St. Serge Sorokko Gallery EAT displays contemporary paintings, sculpture and photography by the likes E&O Kitchen and Bar runs of Donald Sultan and Hunt a popular happy hour with Slonem. shareable bites like the Montague Gallery 445A Sutter St. Clockwise from top: Entree Caldwell Snyder Gallery at Gaspar Brasserie inside 341 Sutter St the Galleria Park Hotel; Ethos Serge Sorokko Gallery boutique, owned by a jet-setting 361 Sutter St. buying duo; art at Caldwell Snyder Gallery; Alessi, where For more things to do everyday items are designed near Union Square go to
by artists, engineers and wheretraveler.com RITCHER ©NIKKI SNYDER; CALDWELL ETHOS; GASPAR; COURTESY TOP: FROM CLOCKWISE architects.
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FIND THE BEST OF THE SONOMA COAST
EAT out for whales, seals and seabirds). For some beach In Bodega Bay, Fishetar- time, head to the 17-mile- ian Fish Market serves the long Sonoma Coast State catch of the day in a super Park, where long, sandy casual setting that in- stretches of sand meet cludes patio seating. Wash rocky headlands and down the gluten-free clam coves. Swing by the cliff- chowder with a glass of top, 93-foot Peace obelisk wine from Sonoma Coast sculpture by artist Benny Vineyards. Located across Bufano at Timber Cove from Sonoma’s fishing Resort. Continue north hub, Spud Point Marina to Fort Ross Historic on Bodega Harbor, Spud State Park, bordered by Point Crab Company beaches and redwood welcomes local fishermen forests and home to a for breakfast and lunch. 1800s-era compound built For dinner, consider tak- by Russian fur trappers. ing an epic sunset drive Fort Ross State up Highway 1 to Coast Historic Park 19005 Coast Kitchen, where you’ll dine Hwy., Jenner on upscale California fare PLAY like braised short rib and little gem salad in a rustic Visit Fort Ross Vineyard midcentury modern din- Tasting Room to sip cool- ing room that highlights climate pinot noir and its seaside location via chardonnay, made from floor-to-ceiling windows. grapes that grow above Fishetarian Fish the coastal fog line, while Market 599 South Hwy. 1, admiring the ocean view. Bodega Bay Feeling adventurous? Rent Spud Point Crab a kayak at Bodega Bay Company 1910 Westshore Kayak. Or just stop in Can- Rd., Bodega Bay dy & Kites for creatively Coast Kitchen 21780 flavored saltwater taffy Hwy. 1, Jenner (birthday cake, anyone?) EXPLORE and a colorful kite to fly in the sea breeze. Stop at Bodega Head, a Fort Ross Vineyard rugged peninsula with Tasting Room 15725 incredible views (watch Meyers Grade Rd., Jenner Bodega Bay Kayak Clockwise from top: The coast- 1580 East Shore Dr., line along Highway 1; cocktails Bodega Bay at Coast Kitchen; dinner special Candy & Kites at Coast Kitchen; visible from 1415 Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay the highway, the Bufano Peace For more things to do on the Statue Monument is the second Sonoma Coast go to
smallest park in California. wheretraveler.com RESORT COVE TIMBER COURTESY
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#wheresanfrancisco A COLLAGE OF IMAGES OF THE JAPANESE TEA GARDEN, THROUGH YOUR LENS