Delphine Arnault weds Brides to Remember Alessandro Vallarino Gancia, 2005. Our weeklong coverage of notable nuptials begins today with a roundup of fashion brides in distinctive looks. Plus, Vera Wang’s top 10 dos for the day. STYLE, PAGES 13 to 17.

ANALYSIS Web Ground Zero In Ongoing War On Counterfeits By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

THE FASHION WORLD is going after big- ger fish when it comes to counterfeits — and it’s all because of the Internet. As the industry’s relationship with the Web morphs into one of both loving and loathing, companies are changing tactics MONDAY, APRIL 25, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 in their fi ght against counterfeiters, who in turn are becoming increasingly sophis- WWD ticated. Fashion fi rms recognize they need a vibrant presence on the Web — from e-commerce to social networking — yet also are fi nding the Internet is now the primary source for counterfeit goods and sites selling fakes that are proliferating as quickly as daffodils in spring. The numbers illustrate the scale of the fi ght: last year research fi rm ComScore said U.S. e-commerce sales totaled $227.6 billion. In 2010, U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement valued the global THE BRIDE counterfeit market at $600 billion. As a result, the Internet has become a clandestine conduit for piracy, cybersquat- ting and counterfeiting, all of which can take legitimate sales away from apparel, WORE beauty and retail companies, accord- ing to legal experts speaking at Fordham University’s first annual Fashion Law Institute Symposium earlier this month. And with violators working around the MAUVE world, rather than simply around the block, fashion companies are seeking rem- edies wherever they can fi nd them. SEE PAGE 4

What is the beauty of a IN WWD TODAY wedding gown without accessories that dazzle?

Playing The Pajama Game PAGE 8 L INNERWEAR: A visit with Roslyn Harte, designer of the original “Pajama Game.”

Lara Stone on Scent PAGE 18 EYE: The face of Calvin Klein dishes on the brand’s rejuvenated ck one campaign.

Karl’s Ice Cream Social PAGE 19 MEDIA: Karl Lagerfeld shows his sweet side, directing a series of commercials with Rachel Bilson for Magnum ice cream. Harry Winston’s diamond lattice bracelet, Valentino’s satin clutch with rhinestones and pearls, Carolina Amato’s nylon and Lycra gloves and Brian Atwood’s silk satin platform shoe with a Swarovski crystal heel. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE 2 WWD MONDAY, APRIL 25, 2011 WWD.COM FINANCIAL Jim Boscov Promoted to Boscov’s Vice Chairman Retail Stocks Gain for Week Jim Boscov’s position is a new one. He was assistant By DAVID MOIN to the chairman, where his responsibilities included RETAIL STOCKS ENJOYED their fifth consecutive week advertising, special projects, recycling initiatives and of advances, gaining ground during the last three sessions of BOSCOV’S DEPARTMENT STORE, the Reading, Pa.- director of leased departments. He will continue in a holiday-abbreviated week as two retail firms prepared to based chain, named Jim Boscov, a member of its found- those areas as well as handle e-commerce and addi- take the plunge into the public markets. ing family, as vice chairman. tional responsibilities. The S&P Retail Index ended the week on Thursday The promotion positions Boscov as the prime can- He has more than 30 years of experience in depart- with a 0.3 percent pickup to 534.88, 1.2 percent above didate to be the next chairman and chief executive of- ment and specialty stores and outlets, having started its resting place on April 15 and 5.3 percent above its fi cer, succeeding Albert Boscov, who is 81 and the son his career at Boscov’s in 1975 as an assistant store endpoint in 2010. The index hit a new 52-week high of of Solomon Boscov, a Russian immigrant who founded manager and shifted to various roles including store 536.97 on Wednesday, less than 2 points shy of the all- the company in 1911 by selling goods from a horse- planning and construction, director of the food service, time high since its 2002 recalibration. drawn wagon. Jim is Albert’s nephew. optical, hearing and hair centers, home fashions buyer, While still showing signs of bullishness despite acceler- “We’re gratifi ed that Boscov’s will remain a family merchandise manager of fragrances and cosmetics, ating headwinds brought on by higher costs for raw materi- business,” said Albert Boscov. “With Jim’s retail expe- store management and director of advertising. als and transportation, its performance last week and so far rience, intelligence and people skills, he was a natural Boscov’s is a traditional department store, with this year has lagged behind those of the major U.S. indices. choice. While I have no plans to retire, I want to assure 39 units in Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey, The Dow Jones Industrial Average opens the new our co-workers and business partners that Boscov’s Maryland and Delaware. Albert Boscov came out of week at 12,505.99, 1.3 percent ahead of the prior week’s will remain Boscov’s for many years to come.” retirement in 2008 to pull Boscov’s out of bankruptcy. open and up 8 percent for the year. Helped by encouraging signs emanating from the technol- ogy sector, the Nasdaq Composite rose 2 percent to 2,820.16 while the broader S&P 500 kept pace with the Dow, growing Macy’s to Go Green With Eco-Friendly Hangers 1.3 percent to 1,337.38. Both are up 6.3 percent for the year. Of the 170 North American and European stocks MACY’S INC., SEEKING to operate more ■ Launch phase two of its energy-saving LED tracked daily by WWD, 119 were up last week versus 47 sustainably and keep the planet cleaner, lightbulb program in stores. Macy’s plans with declines and four that were unchanged. this fall will start using matte black hang- to install 280,000 LED bulbs in about 200 ers made from recycled plastics for most stores, in addition to the 130,000 bulbs in- apparel sold in its stores, replacing the stalled in 95 Macy’s stores last year. standard clear plastic hangers that incor- ■ Eliminate foam packaging (cups, porate petroleum-based resins. bowls, plates and to-go contain- Macy’s uses nearly 300 million hang- ers) at in-store restaurants. Foam ers each year and will ask vendors has been replaced by paper or to ship on black hangers this fall plastic containers made from The upward30.2% movement in American Apparel Inc.’s with the transition expected renewable or recyclable ma- shares last week, to $1.24, as it hammered to be done by next spring. terials. Also, Macy’s will out a refi nancing deal with investors. be using napkins made In its go-green efforts, Macy’s will begin using the hangers made from from 40 percent recycled Macy’s will also: recycled plastics in the fall. and unbleached paper. The biggest gainer in the WWD sample was American ■ Install self-serve electric Macy’s uses more than Apparel Inc., which saw its shares rise 30.2 percent to $1.24 vehicle charging stations through The EV Project out- four million napkins a year. after beginning the week in the throes of a liquidity crisis that side six stores in the San Diego area this fall. ■ Increase the number of solar power systems at threatened its existence as a going concern. A possible breach ■ Become a “recyclebank rewards partner” offering stores and other facilities. of its fi nancial covenants was avoided when the Los Angeles- discounts to shoppers when they register for the pro- ■ Encourage credit customers to receive bills on- based vertical retailer of trendy basics received $15.2 million gram at recyclebank.com and recycle and reduce home line, rather than paper statements. from a group of investors led by Michael Serruya. energy use. — D.M. Although word of an imminent deal lifted its shares the entire week, confi rmation of the arrangement with Serruya and the other investors didn’t arrive until after the close of the markets on Thursday, before the start of Tony Duquette Sues J. Crew Over Cardigan Print Wall Street’s three-day weekend. A LEOPARD MIGHT NOT be able to change its spots, leopard print designs for fabric, wallpaper, carpet, Also showing strong upward momentum last but an interior design firm believes those spots can clothing and furniture. As a result, the print became week were Cache Inc., up 17.3 percent to $5.57, and be trademarked. a “signature theme” of his designs and “still remains Hanesbrands Inc., up 13 percent to $31.54 after the fi rm’s Design fi rm Tony Duquette Inc. last week slapped J. such a defi ning and recurring element” in his history, fi rst-quarter earnings rose 31.8 percent, surpassing ana- Crew Group Inc. with a lawsuit that alleges the retail- according to the court papers submitted by TDI. lysts’ estimates, and full-year guidance was raised. er’s leopard-print cardigan infringed its trademarks After Duquette’s death in 1999, business partner While retail experts, particularly those focused on spe- and constituted unfair competition. and designer Hutton Wilkinson, who is also named as cialty retailers, have been focused on potential mergers Beverly Hills, Calif.-based TDI, which holds the in- a plaintiff in the suit, took the helm at TDI and has con- and acquisitions in recent months, initial public offer- tellectual property rights of the late designer and artist tinued to design, license, promote and market the late ings moved to center stage last week. Both Francesca’s Tony Duquette, claims in its suit, fi led in the Southern designer’s work. Collections and Bluestem Brands, owner of the Fingerhut District of New York, that J. Crew promoted and sold “We fi led this claim to ensure our trademarks are properties, filed paperwork with the Securities and its women’s “Duquette Leopard Print Sweater” with- used appropriately and only with our permission,” Exchange Commission paving the way for IPOs. out permission. said Wilkinson, president and creative director of With the exception of the Shanghai Composite Index, The complaint alleges that the plaintiff ’s marks are the fi rm. major European and Asian markets logged increases for now connected to J. Crew’s product at retail, in adver- Calls to J. Crew seeking comment were not immedi- the week, led by a 1.6 percent expansion at Frankfurt’s tising and in more than 150,000 online searches from ately returned by press time. DAX and a 1.2 percent increase at the CAC 40 in Paris. various search engines. TDI is looking for injunctive relief, damages, attor- — ARNOLD J. KARR In the Fifties, Duquette began creating and using neys’ fees and other costs. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

TODAY ON WWD.COM TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, SECTORS IN THIS ISSUE THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. FINANCIAL 1,2,4,5 LEGWEAR 9 ■ EYESCOOP: See more pictures from WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT the “Bang Bang Club” premiere, National ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. RETAIL 2 CELEBRITY 13,18,19 VOLUME 201, NO. 85. MONDAY, APRIL 25, 2011. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily ACCESSORIES 6 FASHION 13,14,15,16,17 Arts Council party and the premiere of Karl (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, November and INNERWEAR 8 MEDIA 18,19 Lagerfeld’s Magnum ice cream campaign December, two additional issues in February, March, April and August and three additional issues in September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine featuring Rachel Bilson at WWD.com/eyescoop. Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services ■ MORE EYESCOOP: See Fall 2011 Trend: Do provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive the Ruffl e, more pictures of Harold Bloom and Offi cer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Offi cer & Chief DAILY QUOTE Financial Offi cer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Offi cer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, more Memorable Brides at WWD.com/eyescoop. NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. ■ BUSINESS: More fi nancial news and daily Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. Before counterfeiters needed money, stock movements at WWD.com/business-news. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, import and export skills, manufacturing OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA The scene at a 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and contacts and language skills. Now all you old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your New York screening magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address need is an Internet connection. of Karl Lagerfeld’s within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes ads for Magnum ice undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four STEVE EICHNER cream, which feature — SCOTT GELIN, SHAREHOLDER AT weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Rachel Bilson. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please GREENBERG TRAURIG. PAGE ONE. call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact

PHOTO BY Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Group magazines on the World ■ Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to COMING THIS WEEK Coach Inc. reports third- Jones Group report fi rst- FRIDAY: VF Corp. carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our quarter sales and earnings. quarter sales and earnings. reports fi rst-quarter readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . TUESDAY: The Conference sales and earnings. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY Board releases the Consumer WEDNESDAY: China THURSDAY: Elizabeth Arden TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, Price Index for April. Sourcing Fair, Hong Kong Inc., Procter & Gamble Co., SUNDAY: North DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. ■ Under Armour Inc. (through Saturday). Revlon Inc. and True Religion American Fur & Fashion THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO reports fi rst-quarter sales ■ Iconix Brand Group Inc., Apparel Inc. report third- Exhibition, Montreal BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS and earnings. Liz Claiborne Inc. and The quarter sales and earnings. (through May 3). SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. R 4 WWD MONDAY, APRIL 25, 2011 analysis

Fred Felman Erica Alterwitz

War on Fakes Plays Out Online {Continued from page one} Prosecuting third parties, such as Brands have a few traditional tools Internet service providers, is a grow- at their immediate disposal, includ- ing trend after delivering successful ing sending out cease-and-desist letters results to brand owners in the last year, and litigating in court. But the Internet according to Felman, who cited Roger brings a cloak of anonymity with it, and Cleveland Golf Company Inc. versus often a cloak of great distance, and pin- Christopher Prince, et al., a recent case ning down the culprits can be tough. in which the plaintiff sued and won Firms selling fakes have been known to against search engine optimization and $600 billion be based in one country, such as China, Web-hosting firm Bright Builders Inc. Estimated value of counterfeit goods worldwide in 2010. yet ship the goods from another Western for assisting with the construction and SOURCE: U.S. ImmIgRatIOn and CUStOmS EnfORCEmEnt nation to make the products look even hosting of Web site Copycatclubs.com, more legitimate. Tracking the location of an online business that sold counter- Web sites also can be a nightmare. feit Cleveland golf clubs. The judgment, “Before, counterfeiters needed which included an award of $770,750 money, import and export skills, man- in statutory damages against Bright of the more groundbreaking cases have Frontline Processing Corp., et al., and ufacturing contacts and language Builders and $28,250 in statutory damag- come from the luxury world. The North Face Apparel Corp., et al., ver- skills,” said Scott Gelin, shareholder at es against Web-site owner Prince, is the In 2007, Louis Vuitton Malletier SA sus Fujian Sharing Import & Export Ltd. Greenberg Traurig,’’ where he practices first time that an SEO/Web host or other sued Akanoc Solutions Inc. for contribu- Co. et al., as other significant cases. The trademark and copyright law. “Now, all Internet intermediary was found liable tory trademark infringement liability, court established in the Gucci case that you need is an Internet connection.” for contributory infringement without claiming that it allowed several Web sites credit card processors may be held liable About 80 percent of counterfeits having first received actual notifica- it hosted to sell goods that infringed its for contributory trademark infringement, are sold online, according to Valerie tion of the counterfeit sales from a third copyrights and trademarks. Two years while in the Fujian litigation, courts gave Salembier, Harper’s Bazaar senior vice party, according to Felman. later, a federal jury in California ruled plaintiffs North Face, a division of VF president and publisher. “Counterfeiting “This could be problematic for mar- in favor of LVMH, awarding it more than Corp., and Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. the supports child labor, most of all, terror- keting companies,” he said, explaining $32 million in damages, a sum that, ac- authority to shut down counterfeiting ism and drug cartels,” she said. that counterfeiters will copy any sought- cording to Felman, would put the defen- Web sites and transfer their domains. When the product, the Web site and the after items — whether beauty products, dants out of business. Both suits effectively shifted the pricing “look good, it’s deceptive,” said sporting goods, pharmaceuticals or de- Now on appeal, the Akanoc case has power to the brands, giving them the Fred Felman, chief marketing officer at signer apparel — and companies are made “inroads” in third-party liability, ability to hold someone accountable and online security firm MarkMonitor. “It’s a looking to hold someone accountable. said Brian Brokate, a partner at Gibney collect money from a legitimate entity. huge problem for brands in terms of the While the fight against counterfeit- Anthony & Flaherty, who cited 2010 de- While the terms of the Gucci judgment scale of the traffic that is siphoned.” ing stretches across all industries, many cisions in Gucci America Inc. versus were confidential, North Face and Polo were awarded a $78 million judgment, which is believed to be the highest sum of damages ever awarded in an Internet counterfeiting case. Plaintiffs will look deep within, be it at Web hosts, “No more will these cases be just against the infringer,” Brokate said. “Plaintiffs will look deep within, be it at landlords, transportation companies….It’s much easier Web hosts, landlords, transportation com- panies….It’s much easier to get payments to get payments from them than from a counterfeiter. from them than from a counterfeiter.” Brokate, who did not attend the — Brian Brokate, GiBney anthony & Flaherty Fordham conference, has helped set the foundation for third-party liability cases ’’ tried in courts today. His firm was the WWD MONDAY, APRIL 25, 2011 5 WWD.COM Enter the Blonde Lady secretary and general counsel Deborah Greaves. “She’s the Scott Gelin By ALExANDRA STEIGRAD type of person you don’t forget.” Greaves, along with in-house counsel from companies “I’M SORT Of LIkE THE GENERAL,” said Heather like Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. and Compagnie financière McDonald, from her large, uncluttered corner office on the Richemont, has worked with McDonald through her counter- 11th floor overlooking Manhattan’s Rockefeller Plaza. “I’ve feiting program. Often described as a “benchmark” project, had so much experience that there’s almost nothing that hap- it brings together different brands, which collectively hire pens that I can’t anticipate or haven’t been through before.” McDonald to seize any fakes she identifies while on raids. McDonald, an intellectual property and anticounterfeiting McDonald’s ability to organize and control, two of her attorney, isn’t talking about her work in the courtroom. She’s more prominent traits, as evinced by her program, her or- referring to the 600-plus raids she’s led and the countless dered office, clear-cut views on counterfeiting and deliberate, hours she’s spent waiting in unmarked vans in Chinatown measured manner of speaking about the law, spill over into and the Garment District, all in an effort to rid the streets of her life outside of work. McDonald rather curiously dedicates New York of counterfeit goods. much of her spare time to chairing and managing Courageous Her patience translates to a police-secured path, a kidz, a Charleston, S.C.-based organization that serves the straight shot, into rooms filled with counterfeit handbags, ap- needs of children with cancer. parel and other merchandise, where she makes her sweep, first introduced to the group’s summer camp as a young “bagging and tagging,” taking photos and methodically docu- volunteer, McDonald returns throughout the year to work menting everything. with campers, their families, and the organization’s founder Needless to say, with 25 years on the job, this 49-year- Debby Stephenson.

old partner at Baker Hostetler has “She was hooked from the begin- earned a certain notoriety around ning,” said Stephenson, a charming, Canal Street as a kind of Eliot Ness of yet eccentric redhead whose flamboy- the counterfeiting underworld. ant wardrobe of sequined garments, “I’m never the first out of the van light-up Christmas sweaters and fake because I can’t go to Chinatown with- hillbilly buckteeth have earned her

out being recognized,” she said. “I’d the moniker “flash.” “ Yo u might call be afraid to go down alone; it’s not a her Heather but we don’t call her risk worth taking.” that. We call her Sport.” On raids, McDonald has had her The nickname “Sport” comes tires slashed and has had objects from a rescue attempt that sent hurled at her by angry vendors. McDonald, then 21, jumping in a pool Early in her career, one shattered ’’ after a four-year-old amputee, who her knuckles with a metal pipe, put- decided to leap off the camp’s high ting her in a cast for weeks, and giv- dive. Heather was a “good sport,” ing her what she called an “‘Edward and the name stuck. Scissorhands’ look.” “I wanted to be like her,” said “She’s well-known down there. kimberly Pissot, the child who They see her hair from afar,” said jumped into the pool. “When I was Stuart Weitzman general coun- little she used to wear a headband, sel Barbara kolsun, referring to so I wore one too.” McDonald’s flaxen-colored coif. Although Pissot, now 32, hasn’t It’s that shock of fair hair — a spoken with her former counselor trademark of a defender of trade- in several years, she said that upon marks — that signals counterfeiters learning of her recent struggle to pay War on Fakes Plays Out Online of McDonald’s arrival, and which for fertility treatments, McDonald has also earned her the nickname mailed her a generous check and a first to hold landlords accountable for “Blonde Lady.” As McDonald’s ce- heartfelt note. knowingly allowing tenants to sell coun- lebrity grew, Most Wanted-style post- “I don’t think she ever expects terfeit goods. ers of the mysterious woman, who anything in return,” mused Pissot. One of the firm’s attorneys, Heather could double as a Midwestern tour- “Sport doesn’t want gifts for McDonald, who is now a partner at Baker ist, began popping up on walls and I’m never the her birthday, but donations,” Hostetler, spearheaded the effort by putting behind the counters of the shops that said Stephenson, explaining that the landlords “on notice” when she discov- line Canal Street. first out of the McDonald raises at least $30,000 a ered that a counterfeiter was a tenant. According to McDonald, one of year for the organization. The firm’s first cases testing this form the better-known posters shows her “I can’t forget the things they did of liability were brought against Michael photo in the middle of a red circle van because I for me when I was a kid,” said Chris Marvisi, an owner of a building at 365 and a line, and reads: “Watch out for Richardson, an employment attorney Canal Street in New York, which con- her. She take your stuff!” can’t go to at Alston & Bird in Atlanta, who was tained a marketplace of vendors, some of Beyond the bounds of Chinatown, diagnosed with bone cancer when he whom sold counterfeit goods. the Scarsdale, N.Y., native is known was 16. “I was given five years to live.” Louis Vuitton Malletier and Rolex for enacting some of the state’s first an- Chinatown McDonald mentored Richardson, USA sued Marvisi in 2004, after ticounterfeiting laws. Along with then- whom she dubbed “Wall Street” on McDonald amassed large quantities of attorney Sonia Sotomayor and Chanel without being account of his intelligence, and ad- fakes she found while on raids. lawyer Veronica Hrdy, who is now the vised him to become a lawyer. “This case was my baby. I went on 30 brand’s vice president and general “She’d win every water fight. I some-odd seizures through that stupid counsel, McDonald lobbied the state recognized. have this memory of her…she’d come building,” she said. “I had to climb over legislature to adopt a trademark coun- in with this big fire truck that she rat poop.” terfeiting law. The law, which defined — HeatHer McDonalD borrowed from the fire department, McDonald, who still trolls the streets for three degrees of trademark counter- and we’d all be like, ‘Oh crap,’” he knock-offs, said that although the majority feiting, was passed in 1991, and effec- said. “I’m 30 years old now, and I’m of counterfeiting has shifted to the Internet, tively put into place some new guide- always 15 when I talk about her.” “brands have to go at it from every angle” in lines. Justice Sotomayor was unable to comment on this story. But behind those carefree moments belied a darker, order to dissuade counterfeiters. McDonald’s legal bona fides grew in the Nineties when she weightier reality. “If there’s no demand, there will be cracked down on third party liability cases under the Lanham “When you get involved with an organization like this, you no supply,” she said, while acknowledg- Act. Between 2000 and 2005, McDonald represented Louis realize that the dynamics are different,” said Josh Brisbane, ing the immense task of eradicating Vuitton Malletier against landlords who allegedly knew their a former camper. “The reality is children pass away.” fakes entirely. “I think the solution real- tenants were selling counterfeit goods on the premises. “Sometimes it’s good to be reminded of reality,” said ly is public education. As long as people “She’s very firm, but very reasonable,” said Jura Christine Richardson. “It also makes Heather a great lawyer being able are going to buy counterfeits, someone is Zibas, a Lewis Brisbois Bisgaard & Smith partner, who represent- to put things in perspective.” going to sell them.” ed landlord Michael Marvisi, in a case that was settled in 2005. It’s not the differences between those existential realities and Years ago, fakes were a lot easier to Zibas touted McDonald’s professionalism. “She sees the her day job that seem to delight McDonald, but the similarities. spot, said Erica Alterwitz, assistant general forest through the trees, and she doesn’t take it person- “It’s like running a weeklong raid,” she said, comparing counsel at BCBG Max Azria Group, hold- ally. You’re not going to pull the wool over her eyes,” said her work at camp to “herding cats.” “I’m walking around with ing up two gray and purple dresses, one a Tashjian & Padian partner Gerald Padian, of his former ad- a clipboard’’ and a radio and the difference is what’s written shiny, garish, shabby version of the other. versary. In 2003, Padian faced off against McDonald in an in- on my clipboard is: ‘Got to make sure this kid gets moved to “Recently, it’s gotten a lot harder to fringement suit, which alleged that his client, BJ’s Wholesale a different bunk because she’s not getting enough sleep’ or… tell,” she said, now displaying two simi- Club Inc. duplicated Burberry’s trademark. ‘this kid’s suitcase got packed without any underwear,’ versus lar-looking strapless black dresses. Not “She didn’t take a scorched-earth policy,” said Padian, ‘265 Canal Street, door on the right.’” only has the quality of fabric and tagging who noted that the case was settled out of court. “It was one She paused, searching for further clarity. improved, but counterfeiters have also of the best working relationships as an adversary, and it “Some of the guys I’ve worked on with raids have come increased their prices, a strategy used to worked out that the case stands out as one of the more satis- and volunteered down at camp, and they were all like: ‘So, fool customers into thinking they were factory ones in my career.” you do the same job here that you do back there — you just getting a good deal on the genuine article. “Heather is like sunshine personified,” said True Religion wear different clothes.’” 6 WWD monday, april 25, 2011 WWD.COM accessories Texas Two-Step Founded by the husband-and-wife team Jessica and Jason McMahon, Lilah Gabriel’s collection of tangled, layered and mixed- medium accessories celebrates the idea of memories. Comprised of necklaces and bracelets in rich shades of orange, yel- low and navy, juxtaposed with a steady palette of neutrals, the line retails from $120 to $550 and is available at lilahgabriel.com and sev- eral independent retailers in houston and Austin, tex., such as Muse boutique, Coquette boutique and Kickplate. “the inspiration was the idea of familiarity, a girl going through her grandmother’s jewelry box and seeing the different styles,” Jessica said. “there is a lot of Art deco and Art nouveau inspirations within our pieces, and we always add a little bit of urban edge to it so it’s not too soft.” the design duo, who recently found out that they’re finalists for texas’s next top designer contest, incorporate techniques such as hand- knitting and Japanese and Peruvian braiding done in silk charmeuse, metal thread, brass and steel into many of their pieces, as well as the lay- ering of chains in varying colors and sizes. Lilah Gabriel

Prior to the line’s launch, Jessica’s career included stints designing yo- necklaces. Chinsee gawear, jobs at Alice Ritter and Champion, and with “Project Runway” season Ge

two winner Chloe dao. Jason is a fine jeweler with experience in jewelry sales. Geor

Launched in fall 2010, the two are gearing up to enter their third season, by which for fall includes the introduction of fingerless gloves with pearls and knit-

ted chain detailing. — Rachel StRugatz photos

Vela continues to spend time in Argentina, where she sources all of her leather and manufactures her Laura Vela’s Argentine Inspiration collection, learning from the craftsmen at local tan- neries and taking inspiration from the locale. LAuRA VeLA hAS been hitting all the “My inspiration mostly comes from nature,” Vela right notes. said. “I go to Argentina to relax and be surrounded At 24, the barcelona-born hand- by nature. I get inspired through that.” bag designer — with less than a year the bohemian, simplistic, yet highly crafted col- at Parsons the new School for design lection, ranging from clutches to totes and over-the- under her belt — was the youngest de- shoulder bucket bags, retails from $300 to $700. signer to show at new york Fashion In February, Vela was asked to show her line at Week in February. the accessories exhibit at Mercedes-benz Fashion After creating a bag for herself Week. In addition to special orders placed directly while vacationing in Argentina on the brand’s Web site, lauravela.com, e- early last year, Vela was so in- tailer Shopbop.com snatched up a selec- undated with compliments that tion of the spring collection after spotting friends encouraged her to start her collection at the young designers her own line, even though it was Market in Manhattan. something she’d never considered While she shies away from dropping as a possible career path, and in celebrity customer names, Vela noted August 2010, the designer’s eponymous Sarah Jessica Parker has purchased some of The Fern bag. The Fellina bag by Laura Vela. collection was born. her pieces. — RobeRta coRReia Claire’s Moves to Black in ’10 Gone Fishin’ peer group of specialty retailers.” neW yoRK — new eco-conscious brand By ARnoLd J. KARR In comments on the company’s Sprout Watches looks to the sea for its fall quarterly conference call, Kahn said, collection, using fish skin as an alterna- IMPRoVeMentS In net and same- “Accessories growth was driven by tive to leather to construct its environ- store sales allowed Claire’s Stores non-wearable accessories [such as mentally friendly timepieces. Inc. to increase fourth-quarter prof- handbags and wallets] and seasonal the company introduced its first line its and reverse a year-ago loss with a merchandise across both divisions. for spring 2011, and the watches com- profit for the full year. Jewelry demonstrated growth in the prised of organic cotton, corn resin, bam- In the three months ended Jan. ring and necklace classifications as boo, mineral crystal, conflict-free dia- 29, the Chicago-based retailer of well as ear piercing.” monds and mother of pearl are currently accessories and jewelry posted net In response to analysts’ questions, available at the brand’s Soho pop-up income of $21.3 million, up 9.5 per- company officials disclosed that ac- shop through May 27. but it’s not until fall cent from the $19.5 million taken in cessories accounted for 55 percent that the watches created from carp and during the 2009 quarter. Adjusted of 2010 sales, versus 45 percent for salmon fish leather — both nonendan- ebItdA — a non-GAAP measure jewelry, and that proprietary brands gered species raised for human consump- which eliminates interest, taxes, de- made up between 85 percent and 90 tion — will hit stores, retailing for $65. preciation and amortization as well percent of its offering. “We loved that they were made from as a number of nonrecurring items — For the full year, net income came the by-product of the food industry grew 3.8 percent to $97 million from to $4.3 million versus a loss of $10.4 and the idea of turning something that $93.4 million. million in 2009. Adjusted ebItdA would otherwise be discarded as trash net sales expanded 2.7 percent to grew 12.8 percent to $263.9 million into something beautiful fit right in with $421.9 million from $410.7 million. from $233.9 million. Sales were up the design spirit,” said Sprout Watches Comparable-store sales were up 3.2 6.3 percent, to $1.43 billion from creative director Marcella Maselli, in- percent, with north American comps $1.34 billion, and improved 6.5 per- troduced to the concept last year after up 4.7 percent and europe, calcu- cent on a same-store basis. attending a seminar on sustainable mate- lated in local currencies, up 0.6 per- Cash and cash equivalents, includ- rials in new york. cent. Gross margin receded to 52.7 ing restricted cash, finished the year at the brand’s eco-conscious timepiec- percent of sales from 53.2 percent in $279.8 million, up from $198.7 million es are available at nordstrom, Lord & the 2009 quarter. at the close of 2009. Long-term debt fell taylor and sproutwatches.com. there “We are encouraged by the fact to $2.24 billion from $2.31 billion. annaCCone are about 70 styles in the combined men’s that we have had five straight quar- the company ended the fiscal and women’s collections, and they range i homas ters of same-store sales growth,” said year with 3,376 stores of which 2,981, t in price from $30 to $80 — a watch with Gene Kahn, chief executive officer of in north America and europe, are an organic cotton strap retails for $30, the firm. “While we benefited to some owned by the company. and pieces with conflict-free diamonds as degree by the stabilization of the Apollo Management acquired photo by index markers and mother of pearl faces broader economy, we were still well Claire’s for $3.1 billion and took it Sprout watch bands made from salmon and carp skins. can go up to $80. positioned at the forefront of our private in 2007. — R.S.

2.5x7 (left)

8 WWD monday, april 25, 2011 innerwear PJs: A Showbiz Game Changer

By Karyn Monget

Veteran designer roslyn Harte’s first break in designing women’s pajamas for the Weldon brand led her to Broadway in 1954 and the tony award-winning musical, “the Pajama game.” Harte worked with the chorus and two stars in both the original Broadway hit starring Janis Paige, John raitt and eddie Foy Jr., as well as the motion picture version in 1957 by Warner Bros., which starred doris day. Women’s pajamas were a big trend at the time, and the idea of being part of “the Pajama game,” a story about love and labor troubles in a pajama factory, held great appeal for the manufacturer of Weldon pajamas, Louis Lubin. “Louis hired me to design pajamas for women. around that time he was approached to back the Broadway musical, and he said he would if all of the pajamas were by Weldon. He thought it would be great advertisement on stage. He also chose which pajamas were to be worn by which stars, because after all, he was the show’s backer. He later backed ‘damn yankees,”’ remembered Harte. “the pajamas for the chorus were changed every season, cotton batiste in the spring and flannel in the fall, except for the male and female leads, who wore the star pieces — men wore the pants and women wore only the tops.” Harte said she interacted with the costume designers of the Broadway show, saying, “i fitted the stars. Whenever they needed pajamas, i was the one who designed and sewed Clockwise from left: The Steam Heat printed pajama top it in my dressing room....i had more fun on the set of the designed by Roslyn Harte and worn by Janis Paige in “The Broadway production because Janis Paige was so sweet, Pajama Game”; a Broadway musical poster from 1954, and very nice, and when she tried on pajamas she would make a poster for “The Pajama Game” motion picture from 1957. comments about the styling and what she liked. John raitt was a doll, a very easygoing personality, and everybody got along because of that. “But doris day was something else,” continued Harte. “she was very condescending, and i had the great displeasure of being told to make matching pajamas for her little poodle, ike. the poodle was always dirty, so instead of draping a garment over the poodle to take its measurements, i draped it over a sewing machine and cut a pattern. i sent a bill to the studio for $1,000 and they actually paid me.”

the intimate apparel council presents cotton market analysis robert mitra robert

Wednesday, May 4, 2011 2011 Intimate Apparel Council Member Companies Union League Club pajama photo by pajama 38 East 37th Street • New York, NY 24 Seven Inc. Biflex Intimates Group, LLC 5:00—6:00 PM • Cocktails & Networking The Bromley Group, LLC 6:00—7:00 PM • Presentation Buffalo State College Carole Hochman Design Group Chantelle Lingerie, Inc. Featured Speaker: Chelsea Design Group Cuddl Duds Eileen West Mark Messura Fashion Forms Senior Vice President Gelmart Industries Hanky Panky Global Supply Chain Marketing Hanro USA, Inc. Cotton Incorporated Intertek Invista Jockey International, Inc. Mark Messura will provide the latest information Komar Company Lectra about the cotton market. His remarks will focus Maidenform, Inc. on the key factors likely to drive prices over the Nilit America next year and how supply chain companies are Rago Foundations LLC Spotless Enterprises responding to the situation. Wacoal Warnaco Inc. Women’s Wear Daily

Associate Members

Age Group Ltd. La Lame Annette International , Exclusive Suppliers of Stretch Fabrics Barry Ross Intimate Connections Blush Lingerie Cass & Co Clevis Bend STRETCH AND RIGID ALLOVER AND NARROW LACES, PVC LEATHER, SPACERS HYP Intimate The Intimate Apparel Council (IAC) is a division of the POWER MESH, MICROFIBER KNITS, METALLIC TULLE AND LACES, FOIL Nouvelle Seamless American Apparel & Footwear Association. GLITTER, FLOCK, EMBOSSING, BURNOUT PRINTS ON: MESH, TRICOT AND VELVETS Pampered Passions Fine Lingerie NOVELTY ELASTIC TRIM: METALLIC, SHEER RUFFLES, LACE, PRINTS AND RHINESTONES Simone Perele For IAC membership or program information, contact Heather McCue at 703.797.9061 or [email protected] La Lame www.apparelandfootwear.org | www.intimateapparelcouncil.org , Inc. Junior (right)

WWD monday, april 25, 2011 9 WWD.COM Hyosung’s New Product Focus Lissé Leggings Shape Up at Retail Beth Gold-Cohen, a former So I designed my first high-waisted [control] created for two reasons: consumer dress buyer at Macy’s, is find- leggings of cotton and spandex and named By lARA FARRAR demand for materials with cotton- ing her entrepreneurial niche the brand lissé leggings,” said Gold-Cohen. like qualities and industry demand with a category she’s market- A year later, the shapewear collection ShAnGhAI — hyosung Corp. has a lot for cheaper blends amidst ongoing ing as “shapewear leggings.” has expanded to 13 styles, including capris of innovation on its plate for spring- spikes in cotton prices. Recovering from breast can- and boot-cut leggings, camis and short pencil summer 2013. Regarding future innovation, Smith cer therapy and its sluggish side skirts in sizes XS to Xl. Plus sizes 1X to 3X Superchlorine-resistant spandex, said hyosung is working on developing effects, Gold-Cohen said she will be offered this fall. Suggested retail for extrabright luster nylon and polyes- more temperature-regulating applica- couldn’t find leggings that were the leggings is between $54 and $74. Colors ter with a soft cottonlike hand were tions for fibers. In particular, the com- comfortable, stylish and didn’t include black, white and fashion shades. among the new products unveiled pany is developing applications for its produce a “muffin top.” “I’m currently selling to more than earlier this month at workshops with Aerocool moisture-management poly- “I cut off my leggings 1,000 specialty stores, 50 nordstrom doors, partner mills in Mainland China by the ester, Aerowarm warmth- and mois- and hand-sewed a high- 40 dillard’s doors, over 20 lord & taylor Lissé’s Seoul-based fiber company. ture-management polyester, and Creora waisted shapewear brief doors, and four Bloomingdale’s stores, as shapewear Ria Stern, hyosung’s director of Performance h-350, a heat-resistant and noticed that I didn’t well as barenecessities.com,” said Gold- leggings. global brand marketing, and louisa spandex. the goal is to create fibers that have a roll across my midriff Cohen. “I’ve shipped $400,000 of goods Smith, the company’s international adjust to hot and cool temperatures. when I put it on,” said Gold- from February to december 2010, and trend consultant, wrapped up a series “this is in the early developments, Cohen. “I then shopped the stores as I used I’ll probably ship $3 million by the end of of intimate apparel and swimwear sem- but it is a concept we see growing,” to when I was a buyer to see if there was 2011. I better keep up with the demand.” inars in Shanghai, following presenta- said Smith. anything out there like it, and there wasn’t.  —K.M. tions in hong Kong, and Fujian and Guangdong provinces. For swimwear, the focus was on Creora highclo h-350S, a new blend of spandex and elastane designed to deliver a higher level of chlorine resis- tance as well as compression and shaping. the development of the product was spurred by the growing demand for perfor- mance swimwear and water fit- ness, and the burgeoning popu- larity of swimwear that has the control and support benefits of shapewear, said Smith. A new multipurpose prod- uct, Mipan AquaX, a cool-touch nylon with moisture manage- ment and UV protection, was introduced for three categories: intimate apparel for fall 2012, and activewear and swimwear for spring-summer 2013. For the intimates and swim segments, Stern said consumer demand for fashion and func- tion is expected to continue to

Hyosung is focusing on shaping benefits in both intimates and swimwear. bolster business, noting that a big trend will be brighter finish- es and surfaces that have a “cer- tain gleam” effect. this trend will be important in shapewear, especially retro-glam pieces. In order to produce more vi- brant, shinier surfaces, hyosung created Mipan Rexy, a quick-dry nylon and spandex blend with a supermetallic luster, said Stern. Smith said hyosung is work- ing on a new environmentally friendly synthetic derived from sugar, beets and corn to “fit in with the whole eco aspect of the outdoor trend.” Further addressing the eco trend, hyosung has developed eco h-550 for its Creora brand of span- dex, a low-heat set spandex that requires less energy to produce. In another development, the company unveiled Cotna, a polyester that feels like cot- ton. Stern said the product was ADVErTISEMENT SHApEWEAr 1

Ahead of the CurveJulie FraNce Nearly Nude Shapewear Brands Eye Growth with New Technology, New Consumers “Shapewearisbecoming justasintegralforevery- If the numbers are any indication, shapewear has Feels Like Air proven to be a good fit for consumers. “Innovative fabrics are our DNA,” said Dorothy Wahl, According to market research company The NPD senior vice president of Delta Galil which produces daywearasyourregular Group Inc., dollar volume sales in the U.S. of shapewear for Australian company, Nearly Nude. Already women’s shapewear totaled $908 million last year, a celebrity favorite, Nearly Nude is available in over 400 an 8.8 percent jump over the prior year. stores worldwide and is ripe for expansion. Delta Galil, braandpanty…” The number speaks volumes about how consumers which purchased a stake in the company last year, has big — Nivara Xaykao, intimates and of all shapes and sizes value shapewear pieces and plans for the brand, including international growth. where the category is headed, said Nivara Xaykao, Consumers already love the extremely lightweight swimwear editor, Stylesight intimates and swimwear editor at trend forecasting and flexible feel of the collection, which features a high firm, Stylesight. concentration of spandex that offers 360 degrees of control “It says that shapewear is becoming just as integral and shaping without bulk. for everyday wear as your regular bra and panty, “The collections pieces, including our camisoles and and that companies are appealing to new customers tanks, provide spot control where you need it most. Where with products that are functional, fashionable and some customers may not need it—along the bust line for versatile,” she commented. instance—there is less compression. It allows customers Here, two shapewear brands leading the charge to still have their curves and release parts of the body that weigh in on fashion influence, retail trends, and how need to be released.” This fall, Delta Galil will unveil its new shapewear has evolved into a consumer staple. Thinvisible technology, promising consumers the lightest, most comfortable fit yet. a perfect fit BreaKiNG traDitiON In the Zone Though Atlanta-based Julie France Body Shapers has Retail Rollout only been on the market for about four years, the brand Because of the versatility of its pieces, Julie France has incorporates over three decades of research and technology garnered the interest of retailers far beyond traditional into its pieces thanks to parent company Eurotard, which lingerie shops. It’s a trend the industry is sure to see more has been a fixture in the dance wear market for years. of said Stylesight’s Xaykao, who confirmed that more and After winning the consumer over with best-sellers more, apparel retailers are carrying shapewear pieces that including the high-waisted slip shaper, Julie France is fit in with their aesthetic. focusing on expansion and is betting on its unrivaled In addition to apparel boutiques, Julie France has technology to trump the competition. wooed retailers ranging from salons and spas to bridal With its body-zoning technology, the collection’s and maternity stores. Even shops within plastic surgery pieces—which include tops, bottoms, dresses, slips and practices have started stocking the brand. underwear—feature compression panels that secure, “One of our customers is the wife of a surgeon who support and control parts of the body in different ways. brought in the brand for patients post-surgery. That “Because of our company’s dance wear background, community is particularly interested in the circulation we understand the body, how it moves and how garments and support functions [of the garments] that can really need to fit comfortably,” said Mia Holtzman, sales help with stretch-marks and healing post-surgery.” and marketing manager for Eurotard and Julie France. “Each compression panel has a different weave and the Fashion First strength of the weave is specific to the muscle group “Shapewear companies have become more trend savvy and body part that the panel is sitting on. A panel going since the popularity and awareness of the category, in across the oblique muscles, for instance, would be general, has grown,” said Xaykao. Nearly Nude knows all different than one stretching across the lower abdomen.” about tapping into today's key fashion trends and taking Nearly Nude

aDVerTISeMeNT

Shapewear 2 CAhead of the urve Seamless Shape Wear

JulIe fraNce Nearly NuDe JulIe fraNce

cues from the runway. The brand has started to move away from the traditional nude Men’s Body Sculptor and black, incorporating into select styles “it” colors dominating the fashion color palette, including light gray and a customer favorite, rosemist. The runway, said wahl, also drives the product offering. “Because dresses continue to be very important, it has allowed the entire intimates industry to continue to develop new style silhouettes to wear under the must-have pieces, like our microfiber firming slip and torsette top,” she noted. “On the runways we’ve seen dresses that actually mirror the look of this slip.” pushing the fashion factor, Nearly Nude boasts a special section on its website called “The Dressing room” which highlights important seasonal trends, while founder Lucy hosken uses the Nearly Nude blog to document her chic travels and style tips. according to wahl, the brand will also be partnering with key boutiques and fashion bloggers for exclusive in-store events to drum up excitement for the collection.

CONSUMERS: THE NEW NORMAL Contemporary Rules Unisex Body Support Though shapewear has traditionally had a stigma attached to it before, it is becoming more widely accepted as a necessity for women of all shapes and sizes, say experts. “Svelte ladies like Gwyneth paltrow and Lady Gaga are among the biggest advocates for shapewear,” commented Xaykao. Nearly Nude’s wahl agreed. “In speaking to this new consumer, the approach changes. You do have to be viral and have a presence on Facebook and the important style blogs. That’s where the celebrities are also able to get involved on a one-to-one basis.” even the brand’s best-sellers prove how the shapewear customer has changed. “Our retailers tell us that the boy shorts and thongs are extremely important. Our high-waist thong and cotton Lyrca thong have become staples and that really speaks to the trend right now of the category attracting a more contemporary consumer versus the more traditional shapewear consumer.” The demographics and psychographics of this evolving group of shoppers will challenge companies to look at the consumer in a whole new light, suggested wahl. “She’s confident, she’s in pretty good shape and she’s looking for shapewear that will enhance and flatter her figure, whatever her size– that’s the value she’s seeks.” Before Everywear as shapewear continues to evolve, the category has broadened its appeal to women and girls of all ages, as well as men. “we’re seeing a major interest from both men and women in the ballroom dancing world,” said holtzman. “Men love it because the compression shirts provide great support to the back and tummy area.” New moms, teenage pageant competitors, fashion-savvy women in their 70’s and athletes have turned to the brand for per formance and aesthetic needs. Comfort and support, said holtzman, transcends age and gender. “From 14-year olds going to their first dance to older women who need better support in a pair of jeans, investing in a key shapewear product is something that lasts for years,” said holtzman. “Our goal as we expand is to create pieces that can work with every trend and every outfit. [Shapewear] really has become an everyday piece.”

2010 dollar volume sales in the U.S. of After women’s shapewear reached . Tel. 770-475-3045 Fax: 770-664-7208 $908 million www.JulieFrance.com — The NPD Group Inc. L SOCIETY KILLER: Molly Jong-Fast pens an “‘American Psycho’ for the Bergdorf’s set.” WWD STYLE Page 18 MEMO PAD

BRASSY BUSINESS: A dark horse to be sure, Bloomberg Businessweek has become a favorite of the design community. While the It’s royal wedding magazine’s covers have been setting a high bar for other fever — so this week, weeklies, the magazine’s creative with The Bridal Path, director, Richard Turley, an import from The Guardian in England, is we’re going all-out basically unknown. On Thursday nuptial, starting with night on the seventh floor of the today’s look at fash- Bloomberg tower, the Society of Publication Designers hosted ion brides through an event for Turley to introduce the years, many from himself and explain how he approaches his work. STATUS QUO: During a tumultuous WWD’s archives. Turley stood on stage in a dark Paris Fashion Week marked by John Here, model-cum- gray T-shirt and jeans in front of Galliano’s fl ameout and Christophe about 80 people, mostly designers Decarnin’s no-show at Balmain, there actress Margaux and design students. “You do work was also widespread speculation Hemingway in a too much as New Yorkers, and that Chloé and its designer, Hannah probably as Americans,” he said, MacGibbon, would be parting ways sweetly ruffled lace warming up with some comedy. after her runway bow. Not so. dress worn at her “One of the fi rst things when I got According to market sources, over here, a lot of people come MacGibbon, creative director at June 1975 marriage from Time, and they’re insane, Chloé since 2008, recently extended to Errol Wetson. Time. They never don’t work.” her contract with the French For more wed- fashion and accessories goods The house for another season. After ding looks from that is anyone’s guess. Reached BRIDALSpecial PATH the style set, see WWD A Report pages 14 to 17.

“And your TV sucks,” he added. “The programs are good but the way you watch TV is wrong.” He popped open a bottle of Amstel Light and continued mumbling through the meat of his presentation. “I don’t think about the future of magazines very much,” he said. “I have my job, and I do my job, and then I’ve never really kind of worried about the future of magazines. I think we can’t get ourselves pent up about this — Aisle Style just do your f--king job, just get a magazine out, and let’s try not to worry about it.” Everyone laughed. “And I don’t think about the iPad,” he added. Turley’s recipe for success at Businessweek is one part rigid slavery to the grid — he chose type size and letting that would allow for 66 lines on a page, divided nicely into 11 modules that inform every design decision in the book — and one part commitment to playing on top of all the structure. He said he tries to create a two-tiered reading experience each week so readers can just as easily fl ip through the magazine and also read it cover to cover. To that end, he’s peppered the front section, “the snake,” with a superfi cial layer of doodles, arrows, small images and what he

PHOTO FROM WWD ARCHIVE {Continued on page 19} 14 WWD MONDAY, APRIL 25, 2011

Tina and Michael Chow, 1973

The

BRIDALSpecial PATH WWD A Report GUY MARINEAU/WWD ARCHIVE GUY MARINEAU/WWD BY FALAISE Donna Karan, wearing her own designs, and Stephan Weiss, 1983. Hitches

InFrom candy-cane stripesTime to Bohemian chic, anything goes when it comes to nuptial wear for the fashion set. Here, a look back at memorable bridal babes — turbans, sun hats, veils and all.

Elizabeth Gabby Karan in Saltzman in Donna Karan, 2002. a Stephen Sprouse gown and the designer, who lopped off the long train after the ceremony, 1987. TONY BARETTE/WWD ARCHIVE; SALTZMAN AND SPROUSE FROM WWD ARCHIVE; GABBY AND DONNA KARAN AND WEISS COURTESY OF DONNA KARAN, AND KLOSSOWSKI AND DE LA AND KLOSSOWSKI OF DONNA KARAN, AND WEISS AND DONNA KARAN COURTESY GABBY AND SPROUSE FROM WWD ARCHIVE; TONY BARETTE/WWD SALTZMAN ARCHIVE; BY CHOW PHOTO WWD MONDAY, APRIL 25, 2011 15 WWD.COM

Paloma Picasso in Yves Saint Laurent and Rafael Lopez- Sanchez, Loulou de 1978. la Falaise in Yves Saint Laurent (left) and Thadée Klossowski, 1977, with mom Maxime de la Falaise.

Carolyn Bessette in Narciso Rodriguez and John F. Kennedy Jr., 1996. ALAIN DEJEAN/SYGMA/CORBIS DENIS REGGIE, AND LOPEZ-SANCHEZ AND PICASSO BY DENIS REGGIE, AND LOPEZ-SANCHEZ AND BESSETTE BY OF CAROLINA HERRERA; KENNEDY JR. COURTESY CINIGLIO/SYGMA/CORBIS; HERRERA LORENZO

Diane von Furstenberg in her own design and Barry Diller, 2001, Carolina Herrera in her own dress and Reinaldo Herrera, 1968. with family. VON FURSTENBERG AND DILLER PHOTO BY 16 WWD MONDAY, APRIL 25, 2011

WEDDING WEEK COUNTDOWN

TUESDAY: The best fi lm and TV Hitches in Time brides of all time. WEDNESDAY: Love in the Eighties — big hair, big shoulders, big day. Plus: I do, I do love the sand — celebrity beach weddings. THURSDAY: Elizabeth Taylor’s eightfold of nuptials fashion, but guess who’s got her beat? L Kelly Klein in her husband’s designs and Calvin Klein, 1986. Also: Men’sWeek ranks the most outrageous grooms ever. FRIDAY: It’s a nice day for a White (House) wedding ... and other historical political unions. And of course: Royal brides through the ages — a timeline of chic. WWD.com/ Cynthia Rowley, wearing her own eyescoop. design, and Bill Powers, 2005.

Eliza Reed Bolen, wearing Oscar de la Renta for Balmain, and Alex Bolen, Coco Rocha wearing Zac Posen, 2010. 1998. Patricia Georgina Chapman Lansing in in Marchesa, 2007. Carolina Herrera and Gerrit Lansing Jr., 2002. DANIEL GRIFFITHS; BOLEN AND REED FROM WWD ARCHIVE; ROWLEY COURTESY OF CYNTHIA ROWLEY, AND KLEIN FROM WWD ARCHIVE OF CYNTHIA ROWLEY, ROWLEY COURTESY DANIEL GRIFFITHS; BOLEN AND REED FROM WWD ARCHIVE; HERRERA PHOTO FROM WWD ARCHIVE; ROCHA PHOTO FROM WWD ARCHIVE; BY HERRERA WWD MONDAY, APRIL 25, 2011 17 WWD.COM

Marisa Berenson in Valentino, 1976. VERA’S RULES What to Do When Yo u ’ r e Saying ‘I Do’ Vera Wang

By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

Vera Wang’s design portfolio spans far and wide into 40-plus cat- egories, but her reputation as the go-to wedding gown designer is far from waning. There’s no question she knows what works fashionwise for that trek down the aisle, and here are Wang’s Top Ten Wedding Day Dos. 1. “Feeling comfortable in your appearance is incredibly impor- tant. If you feel comfortable with the way you look, you will radiate the most confi dence.” 2. “Determine what kind of wedding you are having. The vol- The ume, silhouette, proportions, amount of adornment, tailoring and other elements of the dress should have a lot to do with not only

BRIDAL PATH THOMAS IANNACCONE where you have your wedding, but what time of day it is being held Special and what the temperature is. [The dress is] not only about how it A WWD looks on your body.” Report 3. “It’s really important to see the whole look — the dress, the headpiece, the size of the bouquet and the shoes. I would even go so far as to include the makeup. A lot of girls put a tremendous amount of effort into the dress, but they don’t give a lot of thought to the headpiece, tiara, barrettes or other accessories. Very often they are an afterthought.” 4. “Go easy on the bouquet. Bouquets that are too large or too AND WANG BY DIERNHAMMER, FRANK loud will detract from the dress.” BY 5. “Hem lengths are very key. You have to make sure you don’t see the shoes. The dress should defi nitely be fl oating above in the front. If it is too long in front, it’s treacherous. In order to make a wedding a success, the bride should not have to lift the dress. Someone tripped in my most recent show. It can be a particularly long walk down the aisle.” 6. “Makeup is another thing to think about. I’m not crazy about strong red lipstick with a white dress. If you never wear Lara Stone blue eyeshadow or purple eyeshadow or glitter, why wear in Givenchy it on your wedding day? You want to avoid any makeup that and David makes you look disguised or that makes you no longer look Walliams, like yourself. That is huge. It should be the same with the hair. 2010. Sometimes stylists can get too elaborate with hair styles and

BERTRAND RINDOFF-PETROFF/LUC CASTEL; BERENSON RINDOFF-PETROFF/LUC BERTRAND colors. Wearing [hair] accessories and [bobby] pins are very

BY much about editing.” Katy England 7. “I have to say I prefer a shoe on the quieter side whether it in Alexander is a fashion shoe (though it doesn’t have to be) or something with McQueen a bit of a wedding feeling. I like a shoe with a tapered toe box. and Bobby I’m not someone who is into a full-on Swarovski-covered glittery Gillespie, shoe. I don’t think you want that much attention. A little kitten 2006. heel is nice if you are marrying someone shorter than you, or a platform if you are marrying someone taller.” 8. “It is just as important to have black-and-white photography done as it is to have color. Black and white is chic and timeless.” 9. “Step into your dress whether it is large or narrow. There

REX USA; ARNAULT AND VALLARINO GANCIA REX USA; ARNAULT are things no one can compensate for. I once had a bride get red lipstick on the front of her dress when she pulled it on over her head. Keep anyone with colorful drinks, beverages or makeup away from you.” 10. “Savor the moment. There’s a tendency when people get married to rush down the aisle as soon as the ceremony has ended. I’m not sure if it’s relief or what. But you have to remem- Delphine Arnault, wearing Christian ber the guests spend most of the time looking at your back during Dior, and Alessandro Vallarino Gancia, the service. So much work goes into planning. Take your time 2005.

ENGLAND AND GILLESPIE PHOTO BY when walking back down the aisle. Let them see the dress.” 18 WWD MONDAY, APRIL 25, 2011

Molly The Killer Jong-Fast FASHION SCOOPS Next Door WITHIN SECONDS of meeting Molly Jong-Fast it is evident that she is very devoted to being a very good mother. Before sitting down at Upper East eye Side restaurant Centolire on a recent afternoon to discuss her latest novel, “The Social Climber’s Handbook” (Villard, April 26) she places a call to her au pair. The three Jong-Fast tots, she reports, are happy, safe and waiting for snacks and hugs in her nearby apartment. “My mother was not exactly the pick-up-your-kids-from-school type,” she laughs. “So I am very like that. Not quite a ‘Tiger Mom,’ but a very, very present mom. Probably an obsessed mom.” Jong-Fast, 32, is the daughter of writer Jonathan Fast and femi- nist scribe Erica Jong. Her grandfather, Howard Fast, wrote the novel “Spartacus,” on which the 1960 fi lm was based, among many other works. She allows that her pedigree — particularly in regard Megan Fox at the Jaguar event. to her mother — has made her hyper-aware of her parenting. “The legacy of the feminists was that they could take care of HOT WHEELS: The 2011 New York their work over their children, and that it was OK,” she explains. International Auto Show roared “But do I consider myself to be as well-parented as people who into town last week and the had stay-at-home moms? No way. So it’s important for me to be fashion fl ock turned out to ogle with my kids. I love my mom and we’re very close, but my mom some of the most stylish new and my grandfather, their legacies were about…they were very models about to hit the road. much self-obsessed…they were different.” Barneys New York’s Simon Doonan She orders an iced tea before concluding, “I’m more interest- decoupaged a replica of a vintage ed in other people.” Jaguar E-Type to celebrate the And violence. car’s 50th anniversary. The

“I am very interested in violence,” she exclaims, drawing the in- JERRY BAUER colorful vehicle, bedecked in terest of a few nearby eavesdroppers. Set during the fi nancial tumult period magazine pages, was of 2008, “The Social Climber’s Handbook,” Jong-Fast’s third book, is checked out by Megan Fox, Gilles a satire of New York fi nanciers and their fi nicky Park Avenue wives. PHOTO BY Mendel, Julie Macklowe, Jennifer Creel, Her serial-killing protagonist, Daisy Greenbaum, has more than a Lisa Airan and Lydia Fenet at a party few skeletons rattling around in her walk-in closet. One early review was partly inspired by the sense of impending fi nancial doom her at the IAC Building. dubbed it an “‘American Psycho’ for the Bergdorf’s set.” husband, Matthew Greenfi eld, a managing partner at Stonework Audi, meanwhile, introduced “I’m always shocked, living on the Upper East Side, at how much Capital, felt circa 2006 and 2007. its new A7 fi ve-door coupe, violence there is.” Jong-Fast explains. “I’m very good friends with this “I wanted to write about a woman taking matters into her own available at dealerships next woman who’s mother, Linda Stein, was bludgeoned to death by her hands,” Jong-Fast shrugs, “a sort of victim of circumstance, gilded- month, also at the IAC Building. assistant. On Fifth Avenue! And the Kissel case? Feeding someone a cage type of thing.” The German automaker erected drugged strawberry milkshake and then rolling them up in a rug.…” When asked whether she considers herself to be of the social a 15,000-square-foot interactive Her grilled chicken Caesar salad arrives, and Jong-Fast drops sphere that she satirizes, Jong-Fast grins and lowers her silverware. billboard in Times Square the blood and gore to return to her upbringing. “I consider myself to not be of this set,” she says. “It’s funny. for the occasion, highlighting “I didn’t want to be a writer, ever,” she explains. “I dropped out of I grew up on the Upper East Side, on 91st between Park and other examples of bold design college, and my mother was like ‘What the f--k?!’ You know? ‘You are a Madison in a townhouse with a hot pink door, and it was all purple in various cities, including the middle-class person. You have to go back to college. People don’t drop and pink and had paintings of people having lesbian sex. Honest Jil Sander, Converse and Moss out of college. Yo u have to go back.’ And I to God. And my mother was, and is even to this day, mortifying!… shops in New York. Passersby didn’t want to.…I fi gured that if I wrote aa We’d go to Bloomingdale’s and she’d be fl ipping through the racks can tweet their own nominations book, she wouldn’t make me go back.” shouting about how awful all the clothes were.” for bold design and see their That fi rst book, “Normal Girl,” de- The pairing of an outsider’s eye with an insider’s zip code has ideas go up on the massive tailed the tailspin of a drugged-out afforded Jong-Fast a certain perspective in her satire. At the same billboard through May 1. Park Avenue princess with famous time she’s sending society up, she’s aiming to create characters parents, including a stint in rehab. readers care about. POP LIFE: A très American white Jong-Fast acknowledges it was heav- “What’s amazing to me, though, that I see a lot, is like, Lisa picket fence and tidy green ily autobiographical. (“My sobriety is Marie Falcone. People would be like,” she says adopting a tone lawn sprung up Thursday important to me,” she says. “I’m more of mock-incredulity, “‘No way. She travels up and down Madison night in front of the Centre than happy to talk about it.”) Her Avenue in a bulletproof van? It cannot be. It is not possible.’” Pompidou in Paris for the fi rst second novel, “Girl [Maladjusted]” She laughs into her iced tea. appearance of Tommy Hilfi ger’s was a non-fi ction exploration into “But it is,” Jong-Fast clarifi es. “Certainly there’s enough crazy pop-up shop presenting the her eccentric childhood. “The characters in this world that you couldn’t make up.…It’s really Hilfi ger Prep World line. “I’m Social Climber’s Handbook” is a a true. Pet Portuguese pot-bellied pigs, OK.” looking forward to Easter new page for Jong-Fast — a novel And with that, Molly Jong-Fast, daughter of the woman who and eating a lot of chocolate,” that isn’t centered on her own ex- coined the term “the zipless f-ck,” slips out of Centolire and into said French actress Zoé Félix, perience. Which isn’t to say her the sunny Upper East Side afternoon, eager to get home to play clad in chinos and a striped life didn’t factor in. The story with her kids. — ALESSANDRA CODINHA shirt. The brunette noted she has a number of theater FOR MORE and fi lm projects lined up. LARA STONE,SEE Inside the faux-timber cottage, Joséphine de la Baume mixed WWD: Were you aware of the original a plethora of tunes, while WWD.com/ M. BENETT DAVE Outside the Box eyescoop ck one commercials when you were preppy waiters proffered trays shooting the ad? of cosmopolitans. The pop-

THE CAST OF the new Steven Meisel- L.S.: Yeah, of course, because PHOTO BY up store is to travel to other directed ck one campaign took to WWD: Did you have involvement in when I was little, 12 or 10 or cities including Milan, where London to host the U.K. leg of the MTV choosing the acts? something like that, I remem- the shop will spring up by the Push program of live music events that L.S.: No, I didn’t actually but I’m very ber ck one was my first per- Duomo, and New York in the the brand sponsors. Alice Dellal and excited to hear everybody play....I fume, I was obsessed with it. Meatpacking District. The Pixie Geldof handled the turntables can’t lie. I like more kind of old music. I had to have it. I had to buy ephemeral Paris shop will during the night, and Lara Stone, the They’re the future of music. it at every shop we went to, I remain open through today. face of Calvin Klein, played host at east was like, “I want my perfume, London’s Village Underground club, WWD: What was it like shooting the ad? I want more, I want more!” So MAKING THE CUT: Galen Weston, where new artists including Alexis L.S.: Oh yeah, it was so much fun, I it always meant so much to whose family owns Selfridges, Jordan and Katy B performed. Ahead of think it was such a great concept to me, so that’s why it’s pretty Holt Renfrew and Brown the party, WWD caught up with Stone to put everybody together in this box, crazy to be a part of that. Thomas in Ireland, will be chat about the campaign, as she had her and you can’t see anyone filming you attending the royal wedding makeup done backstage. — NINA JONES or taking your picture, so all your inhi- WWD: Do you think hosting at Westminster Abbey with his bitions go away. will lead to other things out- wife, Hilary Weston, according to WWD: How are you feeling about host- side modeling? St. James’s Palace offi cials. The ing [the MTV Push event]? WWD: Were you together with the L.S.: I never gave it that much Lara couple is described in a list of Lara Stone: I’ve never done anything whole cast when you were shooting? thought to pursue acting or Stone confi rmed wedding guests as like this before so I’m quite nervous. L.S.: Yeah, we were there [in New York] anything, but I would defi- friends of the Prince of Wales But I think because it’s ck one, really for four days. The first day was a bit nitely be a Bond girl if they and his family. Weston used to it’s quite relaxed — at the end of the like, “Who are all these people?” you asked me. For sure — I would play polo with Prince Charles — day it will be fine. know, and now we all get along great. make a great evil Bond girl! although the two men laid down WWD monday, april 25, 2011 19 WWD.COM Fashion scoops MeMo pad their mallets a while ago in favor of less dangerous {Continued on page 13} magazine that you think would sports. Another bride-to-be who is also keeping called “sticky things.” He said be slightly more conservative, mum about her wedding dress designer — Charlene he stole some of his design it’s very brave.” Hayman, by the Wittstock — will also be attending with her fiancé, sensibility on this front from Chris way, was also up for the creative Prince Albert of Monaco. Other celebrity guests Dixon at New York magazine. “New director job at Businessweek. include David and Victoria Beckham — David and Prince York’s genius,” he said, is that a Asked if he thought Turley William worked together on England’s failed 2018 reader can pass over the magazine was getting noticed in the design World Cup bid — Guy ritchie, Joss Stone and elton John. very quickly, and “yet you don’t community, Hayman didn’t The palace stressed that the list was only a partial have to feel bad about yourself for hesitate: “Absolutely, no doubt one, and not all of the guests’ names were there. not actually reading it.” about it, he’s a star.” The British press has also reported that Daniella Business magazines as a For the first quarter of 2011, ad Helayel of Issa, a favorite designer of kate Middleton’s category also present their own pages in Businessweek were up 48.8 who may or may not be designing the wedding special set of obstacles to visual percent over the same period last year. dress — will also attend. Neither St. James’s story telling. “We have a terrible — Zeke Turner Palace nor Helayel would confirm the reports. problem with old white guys and it’s impassable. There’s kArL’S MAGnuM OPuS: It is a truth LOHAn’S LeGAL LOOk: Lindsay Lohan, who is by nothing you can do about it. universally acknowledged that now thoroughly versed in “perp walk” fashion, These are a few ways we deal karl Lagerfeld draws a crowd. Last ichner appeared in her most conservative court outfit to with our white guy problem: We week proved no exception, with date for her preliminary hearing Friday morning lighten them very dramatically, well-wishers from all walks of life in Los Angeles. The troubled starlet donned a overwhelm them with type, put (art, music, fashion, ice cream) e Steve karl Lagerfeld and black, long-sleeve, crewneck Wolford top and them on their side…” Turley said, turning out to the IAC Building in rachel Bilson

blue high-waisted vintage Lanvin trousers, flipping through different design Chelsea to celebrate Lagerfeld’s Photo by accessorized with black Lanvin platforms, a white treatments of Jeff Bewkes, Julian commercial collaboration with scarf and black Fendi bag. Assange, Steve Jobs and the cast of Magnum, a European ice cream class looking for inspiration and as The ensemble was an improvement over characters that fill his pages. Then brand making its U.S. debut. Behati a ballerina after her performance some of her previous questionable looks in court, there are the endless stories about Prinsloo, Olivier Theyskens, Leigh Lezark, navigating a mob of admirers including a beige the visually mundane, housing Ann Dexter-Jones, Zani Gugelmann, Patrick and well-wishers. Each time, she rubberized Raquel bubbles and commodities markets. Demarchelier and Lisa Airan were all finds her version of happiness in Allegra minidress, “Often we have no imagery,” he on hand to greet the designer and a nearby fridge in the form of a a low-cut Chanel said. “It happened this week, sample the chocolate-inspired Magnum ice cream bar, which she blouse paired it happens quite a lot. We just cocktails. Lagerfeld premiered then devours. with white Chanel imagine things.” his three commercial/“short films” “I was just so excited,” Bilson trousers and a Turley, a quick study of the for Magnum at the party as guests said with a grin. “I mean, I got to white Kimberly company line, explained how the lounged on modular furniture work with Karl Lagerfeld!? I would Ovitz minidress she open seating plan in the Bloomberg scattered throughout the space. have done anything. And eating ice donned in February. offices encourages the magazine’s Consistently surrounded by a small cream isn’t too bad!” Lohan chose last art directors and editors, who sit army of attractive male models, The admiration was mutual. month to stand trial M amongst each other in the office, to suited guards and PR henchmen, “Rachel is a very good actress,” rather than accept collaborate. “Bloomberg is a very the designer’s arrival caused ripples Lagerfeld explained. “She has great a plea bargain in ego-flat place to work,” he said. of commotion in the lobby before ability…with her face.” One partygoer this latest case, After the talk was over, Luke he traipsed into the fete’s VIP prodded the designer about how ice in which Venice Hayman, a partner at Pentagram section: a raised rounded platform cream fits into his famously strict Beach jewelry KMM/X17online.co who has worked on redesigns surrounded by a velvet rope. diet. “It’s not just about the ice store Kamofie & Co. for titles like Time, The Atlantic rachel Bilson was right on cream,” Lagerfeld murmured. Lindsay Lohan

alleges she tried Photo by and, most recently, Adweek, Lagerfeld’s heels. The actress “Karl, you’re a rock star!” to steal a $2,500 had serious plaudits for Turley. appears in all three of the Magnum another partygoer shouted, eliciting necklace. On Friday, Lohan was sentenced to 120 “I think it’s the magazine that spots (playing an art student, a smirk from the designer. days in jail for violating her probation but is out on everyone is looking at,” he said. ballerina and model, respectively) Lagerfeld’s next chapter in the bail and her lawyer is appealing the sentence. Lohan “It’s a breath of fresh air. They’re along with longtime Lagerfeld Magnum saga is set to take place was ordered to appear at a May 11 arraignment and so courageous — the covers favorite Baptiste Giabiconi. in Paris on Thursday when he will a trial date has been set for June 3 on the necklace they’re doing! I’ve never seen In the shorts, Lagerfeld has unveil a chocolate-covered hotel charge — which means at least two more outfit anything like it in this country. Bilson on a fashion shoot with a suite in the swanky hotel La Réserve. opportunities for the fashion-loving jailbird. And especially for a business difficult photographer, in drawing — ALeSSAnDrA CODinHA

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