The Bride Wore Mauve
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Delphine Arnault weds Brides to Remember Alessandro Vallarino Gancia, 2005. Our weeklong coverage of notable nuptials begins today with a roundup of fashion brides in distinctive looks. Plus, Vera Wang’s top 10 dos for the day. STYLE, PAGES 13 to 17. ANALYSIS Web Ground Zero In Ongoing War On Counterfeits By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD THE FASHION WORLD is going after big- ger fish when it comes to counterfeits — and it’s all because of the Internet. As the industry’s relationship with the Web morphs into one of both loving and loathing, companies are changing tactics MONDAY, APRIL 25, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 in their fi ght against counterfeiters, who in turn are becoming increasingly sophis- WWD ticated. Fashion fi rms recognize they need a vibrant presence on the Web — from e-commerce to social networking — yet also are fi nding the Internet is now the primary source for counterfeit goods and sites selling fakes that are proliferating as quickly as daffodils in spring. The numbers illustrate the scale of the fi ght: last year research fi rm ComScore said U.S. e-commerce sales totaled $227.6 billion. In 2010, U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement valued the global THE BRIDE counterfeit market at $600 billion. As a result, the Internet has become a clandestine conduit for piracy, cybersquat- ting and counterfeiting, all of which can take legitimate sales away from apparel, WORE beauty and retail companies, accord- ing to legal experts speaking at Fordham University’s first annual Fashion Law Institute Symposium earlier this month. And with violators working around the MAUVE world, rather than simply around the block, fashion companies are seeking rem- edies wherever they can fi nd them. SEE PAGE 4 What is the beauty of a IN WWD TODAY wedding gown without accessories that dazzle? Playing The Pajama Game PAGE 8 L INNERWEAR: A visit with Roslyn Harte, designer of the original “Pajama Game.” Lara Stone on Scent PAGE 18 EYE: The face of Calvin Klein dishes on the brand’s rejuvenated ck one campaign. Karl’s Ice Cream Social PAGE 19 MEDIA: Karl Lagerfeld shows his sweet side, directing a series of commercials with Rachel Bilson for Magnum ice cream. Harry Winston’s diamond lattice bracelet, Valentino’s satin clutch with rhinestones and pearls, Carolina Amato’s nylon and Lycra gloves and Brian Atwood’s silk satin platform shoe with a Swarovski crystal heel. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE 2 WWD MONDAY, APRIL 25, 2011 WWD.COM FINANCIAL Jim Boscov Promoted to Boscov’s Vice Chairman Retail Stocks Gain for Week Jim Boscov’s position is a new one. He was assistant By DAVID MOIN to the chairman, where his responsibilities included RETAIL STOCKS ENJOYED their fifth consecutive week advertising, special projects, recycling initiatives and of advances, gaining ground during the last three sessions of BOSCOV’S DEPARTMENT STORE, the Reading, Pa.- director of leased departments. He will continue in a holiday-abbreviated week as two retail firms prepared to based chain, named Jim Boscov, a member of its found- those areas as well as handle e-commerce and addi- take the plunge into the public markets. ing family, as vice chairman. tional responsibilities. The S&P Retail Index ended the week on Thursday The promotion positions Boscov as the prime can- He has more than 30 years of experience in depart- with a 0.3 percent pickup to 534.88, 1.2 percent above didate to be the next chairman and chief executive of- ment and specialty stores and outlets, having started its resting place on April 15 and 5.3 percent above its fi cer, succeeding Albert Boscov, who is 81 and the son his career at Boscov’s in 1975 as an assistant store endpoint in 2010. The index hit a new 52-week high of of Solomon Boscov, a Russian immigrant who founded manager and shifted to various roles including store 536.97 on Wednesday, less than 2 points shy of the all- the company in 1911 by selling goods from a horse- planning and construction, director of the food service, time high since its 2002 recalibration. drawn wagon. Jim is Albert’s nephew. optical, hearing and hair centers, home fashions buyer, While still showing signs of bullishness despite acceler- “We’re gratifi ed that Boscov’s will remain a family merchandise manager of fragrances and cosmetics, ating headwinds brought on by higher costs for raw materi- business,” said Albert Boscov. “With Jim’s retail expe- store management and director of advertising. als and transportation, its performance last week and so far rience, intelligence and people skills, he was a natural Boscov’s is a traditional department store, with this year has lagged behind those of the major U.S. indices. choice. While I have no plans to retire, I want to assure 39 units in Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey, The Dow Jones Industrial Average opens the new our co-workers and business partners that Boscov’s Maryland and Delaware. Albert Boscov came out of week at 12,505.99, 1.3 percent ahead of the prior week’s will remain Boscov’s for many years to come.” retirement in 2008 to pull Boscov’s out of bankruptcy. open and up 8 percent for the year. Helped by encouraging signs emanating from the technol- ogy sector, the Nasdaq Composite rose 2 percent to 2,820.16 while the broader S&P 500 kept pace with the Dow, growing Macy’s to Go Green With Eco-Friendly Hangers 1.3 percent to 1,337.38. Both are up 6.3 percent for the year. Of the 170 North American and European stocks MACY’S INC., SEEKING to operate more ■ Launch phase two of its energy-saving LED tracked daily by WWD, 119 were up last week versus 47 sustainably and keep the planet cleaner, lightbulb program in stores. Macy’s plans with declines and four that were unchanged. this fall will start using matte black hang- to install 280,000 LED bulbs in about 200 ers made from recycled plastics for most stores, in addition to the 130,000 bulbs in- apparel sold in its stores, replacing the stalled in 95 Macy’s stores last year. standard clear plastic hangers that incor- ■ Eliminate foam packaging (cups, porate petroleum-based resins. bowls, plates and to-go contain- Macy’s uses nearly 300 million hang- ers) at in-store restaurants. Foam ers each year and will ask vendors has been replaced by paper or to ship on black hangers this fall plastic containers made from The upward30.2% movement in American Apparel Inc.’s with the transition expected renewable or recyclable ma- shares last week, to $1.24, as it hammered to be done by next spring. terials. Also, Macy’s will out a refi nancing deal with investors. be using napkins made In its go-green efforts, Macy’s will begin using the hangers made from from 40 percent recycled Macy’s will also: recycled plastics in the fall. and unbleached paper. The biggest gainer in the WWD sample was American ■ Install self-serve electric Macy’s uses more than Apparel Inc., which saw its shares rise 30.2 percent to $1.24 vehicle charging stations through The EV Project out- four million napkins a year. after beginning the week in the throes of a liquidity crisis that side six stores in the San Diego area this fall. ■ Increase the number of solar power systems at threatened its existence as a going concern. A possible breach ■ Become a “recyclebank rewards partner” offering stores and other facilities. of its fi nancial covenants was avoided when the Los Angeles- discounts to shoppers when they register for the pro- ■ Encourage credit customers to receive bills on- based vertical retailer of trendy basics received $15.2 million gram at recyclebank.com and recycle and reduce home line, rather than paper statements. from a group of investors led by Michael Serruya. energy use. — D.M. Although word of an imminent deal lifted its shares the entire week, confi rmation of the arrangement with Serruya and the other investors didn’t arrive until after the close of the markets on Thursday, before the start of Tony Duquette Sues J. Crew Over Cardigan Print Wall Street’s three-day weekend. A LEOPARD MIGHT NOT be able to change its spots, leopard print designs for fabric, wallpaper, carpet, Also showing strong upward momentum last but an interior design firm believes those spots can clothing and furniture. As a result, the print became week were Cache Inc., up 17.3 percent to $5.57, and be trademarked. a “signature theme” of his designs and “still remains Hanesbrands Inc., up 13 percent to $31.54 after the fi rm’s Design fi rm Tony Duquette Inc. last week slapped J. such a defi ning and recurring element” in his history, fi rst-quarter earnings rose 31.8 percent, surpassing ana- Crew Group Inc. with a lawsuit that alleges the retail- according to the court papers submitted by TDI. lysts’ estimates, and full-year guidance was raised. er’s leopard-print cardigan infringed its trademarks After Duquette’s death in 1999, business partner While retail experts, particularly those focused on spe- and constituted unfair competition. and designer Hutton Wilkinson, who is also named as cialty retailers, have been focused on potential mergers Beverly Hills, Calif.-based TDI, which holds the in- a plaintiff in the suit, took the helm at TDI and has con- and acquisitions in recent months, initial public offer- tellectual property rights of the late designer and artist tinued to design, license, promote and market the late ings moved to center stage last week.