Trails to Tiburón: the 1894 and 1895 Field Diaries of W J Mcgee
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TRAILS TO TIBUR6N THE SOUTHWEST CENTER SERIES Ignaz Pfefferkorn, Sonora: A Description of the Province Carl Lumholtz, New Trails in Mexico Buford Pickens, The Missions of Northern Sonora: A 1935 Field Documentation Gary Paul Nabhan, editor, Counting Sheep: Twenty Ways of Seeing Desert Bighorn Eileen Oktavek, Answered Prayers: Miracles and Mililgros along the Border Curtis M. Hinsley and David R. Wilcox, editors, Frank Hamilton Cushing and the Hemenway Southwestern Archaeological Expedition, 1886-1889, volume 1: Tlze Southwest in the American Imagination: The Writings of Sylvester Baxter, 1881-1899 Lawrence J. Taylor and Maeve Hickey, The Road to Mexico Donna]. Guy and Thomas E. Sheridan, editors, Contested Ground: Comparative Frontiers on the Northern and South em Edges of the Spanish Empire Julian D. Hayden, The Sierra Pinacate Paul S. Martin, David Yetman, Mark Fishbein, Phil Jenkins, Thomas R. Van Devender, and Rebecca K. Wilson, editors, Gentry's Rio Mayo Plants: The Tropical Deciduous Forest and Environs of Northwest Mexico. W J McGee, Trails to Tibur6n: The 1894 and 1895 Field Diaries of W J McGee, transcribed by Hazel McFeely Fontana, annotated and with an introduction by Bernard 1. Fontana TRAILS TO TIBUR6N THE 1894 AND 1895 FIELD DIARIES OF WJ McGee TRANSCRIBED BY Jfazel Mc!Feely !Fontana ANNOTATED AND WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY C/Jernard ;: !Fontana First printing The University of Arizona Press © 2000 The Arizona Board of Regents All rights reserved @ This book is printed on acid-free, archival-quality paper. Manufactured in the United States of America 05 04 03 02 01 00 6 5 4 3 2 1 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data McGee, W. J., 1853-1912 Trails to Tibur6n : the 1894 and 1895 field diaries of W J McGee I transcribed by Hazel Mcfeely Fontana; annotated and with an introduction by Bernard 1. Fontana. p. cm. - (Southwest Center series) Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0-8165-2030-5 1. Tohono O'Odham Indians. 2. Seri Indians. 3. McGee, W. L 1853-1912-Diaries. 4. Tibur6n Island (Mexico)-Description and travel. I. Fontana, Bernard L. II. Title. III. Series E99.P25 M34 2000 972.1'7-dc21 99-006917 British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. 'To the spirit (d' adventurp and discovery CONTENTS liST OF FIGURES . VIII liST OF MAPS . ... IX ACKNOWLEDGM ENTS ... .. X INTRODUCTION ..... XI PAPAGO TRIP , 1894 .. 3 SECOND EXPEDITION , PAPAGO-SERI , 1895 .. .. 51 ApPENDIX A. PAPAGO VOCABULARY FROM JOSE LEWIS 103 ApPENDIX B . PAPAGO VOCABULARY AND INTERVIEW NOTES 105 ApPENDIX C. MARINE FLOODING OF THE SONORA-BACUACHE DELTA AREA, BY RONALD L . IVES 109 ApPENDIX D. WORKS BY W J MCGEE 111 NOTES 127 REFERENCES 149 INDEX 163 FIGURES J. M. Berger at San Xavier del Bac with village residents. XVII Jose Lewis next to an homo, San Xavier del Bae. XVIII Hugh Norris at San Xavier del Bae. XIX Tohono O'odham woman with an olla on her head, Pozo Verde. XX II McGee's field camp at Pozo Verde. .xXII Looking north toward the border town of Nogales, Sonora. XX III Mariano Ballestere drives a burro, near Imuris. XX III A portion of the Tohono O'odham village of Wa:k. XXV Mission church of San Ignacio de Caburica. .7 "Beggar woman" who was unable to join the group picture. 7 Townspeople assembled by the mission church. 7 Mission Santa Maria Magdalena. 8 Mexican blacksmith shop, Santa Ana. 9 Mexican house between San Lorenzo and Santa Ana. 9 "The more typical" of two Tohono O'odham houses near Querobabi. 12 The larger of the two Tohono O'odham houses near Querobabi. 12 "Flashlight picture" of Jose Lewis and other Tohono O'odham men. 13 A Mexican carpenter and beggar at Querobabi. 14 Tohono O'odham children next to a shed at Querobabi. ...... 16 Francisca Martinas and her godchild, Marcie Martinas. 16 House and some children of Juana Rosara at Querobabi. 16 W J McGee and Tohono O'odham at Querobabi. 16 W J McGee "turning out" at 6:30 a.m. at Carbo. 17 Looking over a portion of Hermosillo. 18 McGee with a group of Seri Indians at Rancho San Francisco de Costa Rica. 24 Manuel Miranda and McGee at Rancho San Francisco de Costa Rica. 24 Small group of Seris at Rancho San Francisco de Costa Rica. .24 Candelaria, a Seri woman, at Rancho San Francisco de Costa Rica. 25 Seri boys carrying away the carcass of a dead pig. 25 McGee collects a Seri vocabulary from Mashem. .26 Molino Encinas near Hermosillo, with Encinas family. 28 Pascual Encinas and family at Molino Encinas. 29 A typical Tohono O'odham house at Pozo Nuevo. 31 Detail of a Tohono O'odham house at Pozo Nuevo. 31 Jose Lewis examines a cistern at Pow Nuevo. 31 McGee examines an "ocatiya tree," near Pozo Noriega. 32 McGee next to a huge ocotillo, the "regular opeten." 32 FIGURES IX Jose Lewis examines a burro-powered mill, Pozo Noriega. 32 McGee asleep in camp at Santa Rosa. .34 Breakfast at Santa Rosa. ..... 34 Dry-washing operation at Cienega .. ..... 35 Tohono O'odham woman firing a pottery kiln at Cienega. 35 Dry washer at Cienega. .36 Mission Purlsima Concepcion de Nuestra Senora de Caborca. ..39 Moonlight photo, Altar. 42 Rancho de Felix, north of Altar. 43 McGee next to a Tohono O'odham house in the Baboquivari Valley. 46 Jose Lewis by a Tohono O'odham grass house, west of Fresnal. 46 McGee expedition with Baboquivari Peak in the background. 48 Tohono O'odham cowboys at Fresnal. .48 Jose Lewis and McGee with Tohono O'odham at headman's house, Fresnal. .48 Panoramic view of the village of Coyote Sits (Ban Dak). 48 Petroglyphs at Las Trincheras. 61 Diagrams of two enclosures at Las Trincheras. .62 McGee examines petroglyphs at Las Trincheras. 63 Caulking the bottom of the sloop for the trip to Tiburon. .76 Indians carrying a cask of water, Tiburon Island. .89 S. C. Millard stands guard at Sandspit rancheria. 90 Seri Indian informant "EI General" Fernando Kolusio. 100 MAPS Route of the 1894 Expedition .. ... 4 Route of the 1895 Expedition .. .52 Routes of the 1895 Expedition to Isla Tiburon. 84 FIGURES IX Jose Lewis examines a burro-powered mill, Pozo Noriega. 32 McGee asleep in camp at Santa Rosa. .34 Breakfast at Santa Rosa. ..... 34 Dry-washing operation at Cienega .. ..... 35 Tohono O'odham woman firing a pottery kiln at Cienega. 35 Dry washer at Cienega. .36 Mission Purlsima Concepcion de Nuestra Senora de Caborca. ..39 Moonlight photo, Altar. 42 Rancho de Felix, north of Altar. 43 McGee next to a Tohono O'odham house in the Baboquivari Valley. 46 Jose Lewis by a Tohono O'odham grass house, west of Fresnal. 46 McGee expedition with Baboquivari Peak in the background. 48 Tohono O'odham cowboys at Fresnal. .48 Jose Lewis and McGee with Tohono O'odham at headman's house, Fresnal. .48 Panoramic view of the village of Coyote Sits (Ban Dak). 48 Petroglyphs at Las Trincheras. 61 Diagrams of two enclosures at Las Trincheras. .62 McGee examines petroglyphs at Las Trincheras. 63 Caulking the bottom of the sloop for the trip to Tiburon. .76 Indians carrying a cask of water, Tiburon Island. .89 S. C. Millard stands guard at Sandspit rancheria. 90 Seri Indian informant "EI General" Fernando Kolusio. 100 MAPS Route of the 1894 Expedition .. ... 4 Route of the 1895 Expedition .. .52 Routes of the 1895 Expedition to Isla Tiburon. 84 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Bringing W J McGee's field notes of his 1894 and 1895 journeys from Arizona to Sonora into print is a project that began more than four decades ago, in 1956, and during the course of that time we inevitably became indebted to numerous indi viduals, many of them, sadly, no longer alive. Among these are Margaret Blaker, archivist for the now-defunct Bureau of American Ethnology at the Smithsonian Institution; Ronald L. Ives, geographer and cartographer extraordinaire, who sup plied encouragement, maps, and material for one of the appendices and who died February 26, 1982; Klotho McGee Lattin, W J McGee's daughter, who died Novem ber 17, 1985; Elsie McGee Ellis, W J McGee's grandniece; Don Roberto Thomson, grandnephew of Pascual Encinas and son of Louis Keith Thompson, one of McGee's companions in 1895; Matthew W. Stirling, director of the Bureau of American Ethnology; Frank H. H. Roberts, Jr., director of the Bureau of American Ethnology; David C. Mearns, chief of the Manuscripts Division of the Library of Congress; and Licenciado Luis Encinas, governor of the state of Sonora. We were also aided in identification of plants and animals and in other ways by Charles H. Lowe, Jr., and Paul S. Martin, both retired from the University of Arizona; Raymond M. Turner, retired from the U.S. Geological Survey; Steven J. Prchal of Sonoran Arthropod Studies, Inc.; Richard S. Felger of Drylands Insti tute; and Curtis M. Hinsley, Jr., of Northern Arizona University. All photographs are reprinted by permission of the National Anthropolog ical Archives, Smithsonian Institution, and are identified by catalog number in the caption. Photographs in the introduction and "Papago Trip, 1894" journal were taken by William Dinwiddie; photographs in the "Second Expedition, 1895" jour nal were taken by John W. Mitchell. INTRODUCTION By the end of the nineteenth century, a self-taught and now largely forgotten sci entist had climbed to the pinnacle of the fledgling field of American anthropol ogy as one of its most powerful and outspoken proponents. Unlikely though it may seem, chief among the trails leading to that summit were those headed to a remote, dry, and forbidding place in the Gulf of California known as Shark Island, or, more properly, Isla Tibur6n.