them apart from the rest of humanity, especially from their closest neighbours. The identification of criteria for convergence/ differentiation and the definition of their levels of relevance is necessarily an arbitrary choice as soon as we consider a territory where two or more Frédéric Duhart, France human primary groups are settled. A village has its Anthropologist. Teacher researcher associated own food identity because its inhabitants decided with Intercultural University of the State of to forget the «minor» differences that existed in the (UIEP, ) and the Sigmund Freud ways of eating between one family and another University Paris (France) and to emphasise the existence of food emblems recognised by all the community members. The same process can be observed at all territorial levels. Territorial Food Identities By consequence, the territorial food identity that can be found somewhere in the real world is Tips for Gastronomy Actors generally complex because it is simultaneously local, regional, national, etc. To understand its This work is about the territorial food dynamics, it is useful to imagine it as a large identity structure and the interest of its matrioska set. At the most local levels of identity, understanding for gastronomy actors. strong originality markers play a crucial role. At superior levels, federative elements are much A territorial food identity is characterised by more important. a set of cultural markers that the majority of the We will consider the case of Cuyoaco’s cen- inhabitants of a territory consider as indigenous to tral district food identity. Cuyoaco is a town of their culture and the foreigners identify as typical about 2000 inhabitants in the municipality of of this part of the world or frankly exotic. These Cuyoaco, in the state of Puebla, in Mexico, in markers are various: products, recipes, culinary North America. techniques, consumption patterns, table manners, food preferences or representations. Logically, a 1) District identity, characterised by an absolute territorial identity cannot be separate of a sense singularity marker: of belonging. The people who live in a certain In the hearth of Cuyoaco’s central district, Don area agree that their ways of eating present Lucio kneads and bakes a wide variety of sweet and more similarities than differences and that they salted breads for some 50 years. There are other consequently share a common food culture that set bakers in the town, but his products are unique and

WGI GLOBAL REPORT 2020 15 people from all over Cuyoaco come to buy them 4) Regional identities, characterised by interme- even on those days when Don Lucio’s batch is not diary unifying elements: cooked before 22 h! Cuyoaco and their neighbouring municipalities are parts of larger political or cultural regions that are 2) Town identity, characterised by a singularity identified by certain food markers. They are part of marker: the state of Puebla, as the local style mole perfectly Cuyoaco’s central district is a part of a town remembers. They are also part of the central area of known for its traditional sweet empanadas. Two Mexico where the tradition of producing and drinking families are currently producing these pastries pulque has continued, etc. stuffed with whey cheese (requesón) or jam. The recipe they follow is commercially used in 5) Macro-regional, national or supra national Cuyoaco for at least 60-70 years. Local empanadas identities, characterised by extremely federative became famous in a fairly large area of the north elements: of Puebla because they were early sold in the Cuyoaco’s inhabitants share with all other Mexi- long-distance buses that run on the federal road can citizens a food culture in which the nixtamalized and the highway that cross the town. Cuyoaco maize products occupy an eminent position. They live is not the only community that produces sweet in a region of North America where soft drinks are wi- empanadas in the region, but its members proudly dely consumed; they are settled in one of the areas distinguish theirs from all others and the name of Western world where people celebrate Epiphany «Empanada de Cuyoaco« is considered attractive eating a brioche kings’ cake, etc. in neighbouring towns. Bearing in mind this territorial food identity structure allows to act more effectively when it 3) Small area identity, characterised by a local comes to starting/supporting local development by unifying element: gastronomic initiatives or to protecting/enhancing a The municipality of Cuyoaco is a part of a restricted food heritage. It is possible to work at all identity levels. area where a flat disk-shaped soft goat cheese Absolute singularity markers add a strong touch plays an important role in local cuisine for several of originality to a place: they are unique monuments. decades. The main goat cheese makers are located Consequently, they can be promoted in a large range in neighbouring municipalities as of touristic actions, starting with the basic «friendly or , but various grocers and butchers daily sell purchase advice» or the organisation of old-style a part of their production in Cuyoaco. This soft goat factory visits. These markers are not necessarily cheese locally became an ingredient in numerous part of a long tradition. They can also be creative classical recipes. For instance, it is now the cheese personal expressions: highly innovative products mainly used for preparing the Chile en nogada. or retro-innovations. As these foods are unique, we

WGI GLOBAL REPORT 2020 16 must think about their future in the relatively long For this reason, underlining the existence of federative term, especially when they are traditional ones or elements can be useful to overcome old rivalries or when they are currently crafted by an elderly person. assumed antagonisms between cultural groups, Without effective anticipation, they can become autonomous communities, nations, etc. My friend extinct. Of course, we must not underestimate Professor Pablo Lacoste advocates for many years the risk of disappearance of food traditions that that the creation of binational denomination of origin two or more persons are continuing. But, there for Pisco between Peru and Chile would be a fabulous is logically an increased risk in such context. symbol, I agree with him. It is quite important we protect Local or regional identification on the basis of food local food traditions within the European Union, but markers can be touristically exploited. For instance, we also have to remind people that certain extremely festivals, gastronomic city tours or regional roads federative food markers unite us if we want a strong can be organised, museums or interpretation centres European Union sense of belonging to be shared, a can be opened, etc. The strength of the link between day, by all the inhabitants of our common territory. a product and a territory can also be commercially highlighted, using a collective trademark or obtaining an official designation of origin. In both cases, the success of the development initiative depends on the commitment of many local actors. By this way, promoting foods linked with territorial identities can lead to citizen awareness of essential political issues!

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