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Jaffna & the North

Includes  Why Go? Vavuniya...... 258 With towering, rainbow Hindu temples, sari-clad women on bicycles and a spectacular coastline fringed with palmyra Mannar Island and palms, the North is a different world. Here the & Around...... 260 climate is arid for most of the year and the fields sun-baked. ...... 262 The light is stronger: surreal and white-hot on salt flats in Jaffna Peninsula...... 271 the , bright and lucid on coral islands and northern Jaffna’s Islands...... 274 beaches, and soft and speckled in Jaffna’s leafy suburbs and its battle-scarred centre. And, of course, there are the cultural differences. From the language to the cuisine to religion, Tamil culture has its own rhythms, and people here are proud of their heritage. Best Places to Inevitably, given that this region was a war zone until very Eat recently, there’s still a noticeable military presence. But the ¨¨ (p269) ambience is far more relaxed than you’d expect, as locals focus on healing, rebuilding and reviving the rich traditions ¨¨Cosy Restaurant (p269) of northern life. ¨¨Malayan Café (p269) ¨¨Fort Hammenhiel (p276)

When to Go Best Places to Jaffna Stay °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 16/400 ¨¨Morgan’s Residence (p267) ¨¨Jaffna Heritage Hotel 30/86 12/300 (p268) 20/68 8/200 ¨¨Fort Hammenhiel (p276) 10/50 4/100 ¨¨Theresa Inn (p267) ¨¨Baobab Guest House 0/32 0 J FDNOSAJJMAM (p261) Feb The best Jun–Jul High Jul–Aug Jaffna’s month to view season sees sun- extraordinary 25- greater flamin- shine, moderate day Nallur festival gos, present in heat and delicious has parades, ice their hundreds in mangoes. cream and ritual Mannar Island. self-mutilation. Jaffna & the North Jaffna & the North Highlights 257 Lagoon Kokkilai

Pulmoddai Kadal 20 km (30km) Nanthi Lagoon 12 miles A29 Tank Trincomalee Tanniyuttu Padawiya Kumulamunai Wahalkada B A Y O F Horowupotana Mullaittivu Nedunkeni B E N G A L Oddusuddan Alut Hammillewa Kebitigollewa Puthukkudiyiruppu 0 0 e L arning aboutHindu A35 A34 Omantai A9 Jaffna Peninsula in the Jaffna oads Vavuniya Maviddapuram at Maviddapuram traditions (p271), Kovil Kanthaswamy Kovil Thirukketeeswaram Amman or Thurkkai (p261) (p271) Kovil 6 r (p271), fringed by fishing by fringed (p271), and quiet seas calm boats, beaches Anuradhapura (15km) Medawachchiya Iranamadu Kulam Theravilkulam Murukandy Kilinochchi

The Vanni Paranthan Chempiyanpattu Puliyamkulam Pallai Mankulam Pass Kulam Akkarayan Tantirimalai Elephant Tunukkai A30 Our Lady of Madhu Church Palampiddi Mukamalai Nallur bserving the war’s war’s the bserving iding along coastal iding along coastal See Jaffna Peninsula Map (p272) See Jaffna Peninsula Chavakachcheri Madhu Pallavarayankaddu R O Discovering ancient Discovering

struction of homes, homes, of struction Jaffna Peninsula baobab trees, a historic fort fort a historic trees, baobab at Mannar bays and remote Island (p260) 4 5 3 de temples and communities and communities and temples its of the strength appreciating survivors A32 Pooneryn Veravil Pallamadu Giant's Tank Palali Airport Chempankundu Kovil Thurkkai Amman Kovil Madhu Road Thirukketeeswaram Kovil South A14 Jaffna Uyilankulam Vellankulam Iranaitivu Mantai Kanthaswamy Maviddapuram North Iranaitivu Murunkan Spring Palaitivu Town Mannar Keerimalai Arippu Vankala (prayers) at Nallur (prayers) Pesalai Islands Jaffna's Silavatturai uja p Palk Bay lipping into a trance a trance lipping into S Palk Strait Karaitivu Marvelling at the Marvelling

Kiri Beach Island Neduntivu Mannar J 2 during affna &the North Highlights 1 (p263) Kovil Kandaswamy the charming and investigating and its (p269) market and cigars tropical textiles, spectacular seascapes and seascapes spectacular Jaffna’s light exploring surreal Islands (p274) Talaimannar Gulf of Mannar