Chilaquilesverdes
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Wednesday, September13, 2017 INSIDE D austin360food FINDYOUR STUDY Contact: [email protected]; 512-445-3690 +COMICS&PUZZLES Subscribe: statesman.com/subscribe SPOT, D2 PROFILE AUSTIN360COOKS D1 RobertoSantibañez established hiscareerinthe U.S. with astint at FondaSan Miguel in Austin before opening thesimilarlynamed FondainNew York City.Heand Fondaowner TomGilliland arestill closetothisday. CONTRIBUTED BY THEHISPANICALLIANCE WhychefSantibañez envies hisformerboss at FondaSan Miguel ByAddie Broyles servedinasweet,simple mole. [email protected] “Thismole is particular to Zacatecas,” he says.“They don’t Last weekend, one of the most have the availabilityofingredients notedchefs to have worked in as southern and centralMexicans, Austin kitchens returned to the so theyused twokinds of dried city thathelped shape him to chilies and afew spices, which helm the Authentic Mexico gala is all it takestomakeamole.” at the Long Center. We’vecomealong wayinhow Mexico CitynativeRoberto Americans and Austinites under- Santibañez wasthe head chef at stand Mexican cuisine, he says. Fonda San Miguelfrom1997to SantibañeztrainedatLeCordon 2001 beforeopening severalres- Bleu in Paris and operated several taurants in NewYorkand writ- high-end restaurants in Mexico ing anumber of cookbooks. He City, but he knewhewanted to returnedtotownasthe featured work in the U.S. In 1997,hetook chef at Sunday’sannualfundraiser overFondaSan Miguel, wherehe forthe Hispanic Alliance and its learned lessons he still usestoday. communityprojects, Emprend- “Fonda waswhereItruly edor U, Austin Soundwavesand jumped up and divedintoitall,” Oleh. he says.Hewatched founder Tom Each year,Authentic Mexico Gilliland work the front of house showcasesadifferent state of and run the back of house, find- Mexico at its event tied to Diez ing abalancebetween operat- To makechilaquiles,you startwithtortillasbut canend up withaninfinite numberofdishes, including ySeis, Mexican Independence ing abusiness thatspeaks to his this onewith salsadechili poblano andbeefmilanesafromChilakillersinMexicoCity. Day. Thisyear, it wasthe North soul and one thathis customers Centralstate of Zacatecas. Even demand. though Santibañez grew up a “One of the wonderful things fewstatesaway, he knows that about Tomisthat, almost seam- one of the mostpopulardishes lessly,he’scontinuously making Migasare great, but in Zacatecasisasado de bodas, awedding stew of braised meat Fonda continuedonD9 they aren’t chilaquiles By Claudia Alarcón Special to the American-Statesman Comfortfoodsspeak auniver- sal language. Theyremind us of homewhen we arefar away,bring us solacewhen we aresad and help us feel alittle better when we aresick. Depending on whereyou’re from, your comfort foods may be chicken noodle soup,aslice of pizza, aMidwestern hotdish, Fritopie or asteaming bowl of pho.Having grownupinMexico Crema Bakery &Cafehas been afrequent host of Austin Bakesbake City, Ihaveawhole set of dishes sales, which oftentakeplace afteramajor international, national or thatbring me comfortwhenI localdisaster. Theorganization’sHarveyfundraiser will be Sept.16 need it,but my all-purpose go-to at nine sitesaroundthe Austin area. CONTRIBUTEDBYAUSTINBAKES favorite is definitelychilaquiles. NewTexans mightget chilaqui- Chilaquiles,unlikemigas,aren’tscrambled witheggs. Instead, you lesand migas confused, but they frythe tortilla strips in freshlymadesalsa andthentop withdesired areasdifferent from each other cheese, meatsorafried egg. PHOTOSCONTRIBUTED BY CLAUDIAALARCÓN Citywide bake sale will as ahamburger is from ameat- loaf.Though the breakfast staple benefitHarveyrelief efforts dishes sharecommon ingredi- arepurelyMexican. (Don’t for- such as quesoChihuahua and ents, theyare distinctand reflect get: Texaswas once partofthe broil until bubbly. signed up to contributebaked manyyears of culinaryhistory in Republic of Mexico,sothisdish Chilaquilesare the ultimate Addie goods. You’ll find both sweet and both Texasand Mexico. hasbeenenjoyedherefor gen- in frugal, home-cooked meals, Broyles savory treats at allthe locations, Migas consist of scrambled erations, too.) asimple dish that takes15min- Relish Austin and allproceedswill go to Ameri- eggs cooked with chopped onion, The dish —crispy-fried pieces utes to whip up from ingredi- cares. Youcan find outmoreat tomato and freshchili jalapeño of corn tortilla simmered in abro- ents already in the fridgeorthe The citywide bakesaleorgani- austinbakes.com. or serrano,with ahandful of thy, tomato-ortomatillo-based pantry.But forme, chilaquiles zationAustin Bakes hashosted If youcan’t be hereonSept. fried tortilla pieces and shred- sauce seasoned with onion, gar- represent something more, and numerousfundraising events 16,you cansupport the organiza- ded cheese tossed in at the end. lic, epazoteand different chilies I’mremindedofthateach time since it launched after the tsu- tion’sfundraisingefforts through Although widelypopular in res- depending on the region —has Itravelhome to take care of my nami in Japan in 2011. Its upcom- buying merchandise, including taurant menus throughout the longbeen awarming,nourishing mother,who taught me how to ing sale from 10 a.m.to2p.m. shirts and tote bags. Each bake state,the rootsofthishumble staple, ubiquitousincafeteria and makethem in the first place. on Sept.16islookingtobeits sale sitealso will collect emer- dish are no doubt in the kitchens neighborhood fondas (neighbor- Igrewupinalower-middle- largestyet. gencysuppliesfor local relief of Mexican-American families. hood restaurants thatserve sim- class family,and both my par- Organizershavealready con- organizations. In Mexico we call thisdishhue- ple home-style dishes)for break- ents worked. My dadwas the firmed ninesalesites —Stiles JessicaForkner,one of the orga- vosala mexicana con tortilla fast or supper.Theyare usually salesmanagerathis cousin’s tile Switch, Crema Bakery&Cafe, nizers and the owner of Crema and don’t addcheese. WhereI garnished withcrumbled cheese, factory,while my mom,despite Springdale Farm,Whole Foods Bakery&Cafe, shared afew of the comefrom, migasisasoupmade freshonion slices and Mexican having adegreeinpharmaco- BeeCaves andatthe Domain, Jo’s recipesfor treats she’ll be donat- from stale bolillo slicessoaked in crema. Theycan be upgraded chemistry,ended up withavari- Coffee downtownand on South ing forthe sale thisweekend. chickenbroth seasonedwith gar- to afuller meal withthe addition etyofodd jobs. Congress, WholeFoods 365in lic, chorizo and epazote, similar of afried egg, shredded poached Whenmydad lost hisjob to Cedar Parkand Nate’s in Buda — to Spain’s garlic soup. chicken or athin skirtsteak.Some and morethan 100 bakers have RECIPESOND3 Chilaquiles, on theother hand, cooks liketouse melting cheese Chilaquiles continuedonD7 ANNUAL OFFICE FURNITURE SALE Cascadia 54" Desk BDI is recognized as one of the mostexciting Reg $1199 Office Furniturelines in NorthAmerica. During this •Available in four finishes •Reversibledrawers limited-time, Factory-Authorized Sale, get special $ savings of 15% OFF In-Stock and Special Orders SALE 1,019 in their stunning new collection. Hurry in! Cascadia MobileFile Reg $629 LOVE WHERE YOUWORK $ SALE 535 2785Bee Cave Rd •across from Trader Joe’s•512.347.1616 •CollecticHome.com Page 7 CMYK AUSTIN AMERICAN-STATESMAN | WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2017 D7 CHILAQUILESVERDES 1½pounds tomatillos, huskedand washed 3chiliesserranos (ormore ifyoulikethings spicy) 2garlic cloves, peeled 2large stems of fresh epazote ¼cup vegetable oil 10 stale corn tortillas, cut intoeighths ½small whiteonion, thinly sliced Crema Mexicana or creme fraiche Crumbledqueso fresco or cotija Placetomatillos and chiliesinasmall saucepan, add enough watertocover This simplechilaquiles verdes is cooked in atomatillosauce. PHOTOSCONTRIBUTED BY and bring to aboil. CLAUDIAALARCÓN D7 Simmer for8to 10 minutes or until the tomatillos aresoft.Strain crispy. Drain on paper completely coated with in the saucefor 5minutes intoablender, add garlic towels. Pour thesalsainto the sauce. If youwantthem before serving.Optional: At Chilakillers,abrunchspotinMexicoCity, you’ll finda and puree.Add theepazote the panand cook forabout crispy, serve immediately To pwithshreddedpoached whole menu of memorablechilaquiles,including this one and blend. 10 minutes.Add abouta toppedwith the crema, chickenbreast,afriedegg withsalsa borrachaand aspicy beef tinga. Heat the oil in amedium cup of water, seasonwith some of thecheeseand or athin steak. Serves 4. panand fry the tortilla salt and cook for5more sliced onions. If youprefer trianglesafew at atime minutes.Add the tortilla them soggier, turn the fire —Claudia Alarcón until goldenbrown and chips,stirring them until off,coverand letthem soak Chilaquiles ABOUTTHE continuedfromD1 AUTHOR Claudia Alarcón is an ageneral strike at the fac- Austin-basedwriter tory,wehad to tighten our and UniversityofTexas MARISELA’SCHILAQUILESENGUAJILLO belts to makeends meet. graduatewho loves These were hardtimes, to soccer, travel and rosé. 16 chiliesguajillos saythe least.However, my Shepresents lectures 5driedchiliesdeárbol mom did her best to shield and workshopson 3large tomatillos, husked me and my brother from the topicsrelated to the and washed realityofour situation, and foodwaysofMexico, 3garlic cloves, peeled thisespeciallycame through both locally and ¼medium whiteonion, at the table. She wasafabu- internationally,and cut intoslices lous, resourceful cook who leads culinary tours ¼teaspoon black pepper could makedinner outof of herhometown, 1¼teaspoonssalt