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AUSTIN AMERICAN-STATESMAN | WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2017 D7

CHILAQUILESVERDES

11/2pounds tomatillos, huskedand washed 3chiliesserranos (ormore ifyoulikethings spicy) 2garlic cloves, peeled 2large stems of fresh epazote 1/4cup vegetable oil 10 stale corn , cut intoeighths 1/2small whiteonion, thinly sliced Mexicana or creme fraiche Crumbledqueso fresco or cotija

Placetomatillos and chiliesinasmall saucepan, add enough watertocover This simplechilaquiles verdes is cooked in atomatillosauce. PHOTOSCONTRIBUTED BY and bring to aboil. CLAUDIAALARCÓN

D7 Simmer for8to 10 minutes or until the tomatillos aresoft.Strain crispy. Drain on paper completely coated with in the saucefor 5minutes intoablender, add garlic towels. Pour thesalsainto the sauce. If youwantthem before serving.Optional: At Chilakillers,abrunchspotinMexicoCity, you’ll finda and puree.Add theepazote the panand cook forabout crispy, serve immediately To pwithshreddedpoached whole menu of memorablechilaquiles,including this one and blend. 10 minutes.Add abouta toppedwith the crema, chickenbreast,afriedegg withsalsa borrachaand aspicy beef . Heat the oil in amedium cup of water, seasonwith some of thecheeseand or athin steak. Serves 4. panand fry the salt and cook for5more sliced onions. If youprefer trianglesafew at atime minutes.Add the tortilla them soggier, turn the fire —Claudia Alarcón until goldenbrown and chips,stirring them until off,coverand letthem soak Chilaquiles ABOUTTHE continuedfromD1 AUTHOR Claudia Alarcón is an ageneral strike at the fac- Austin-basedwriter tory,wehad to tighten our and UniversityofTexas MARISELA’SCHILAQUILESENGUAJILLO belts to makeends meet. graduatewho loves These were hardtimes, to soccer, travel and rosé. 16 chiliesguajillos saythe least.However, my Shepresents lectures 5driedchiliesdeárbol mom did her best to shield and workshopson 3large tomatillos, husked me and my brother from the topicsrelated to the and washed realityofour situation, and foodwaysofMexico, 3garlic cloves, peeled thisespeciallycame through both locally and 1/4medium whiteonion, at the table. She wasafabu- internationally,and cut intoslices lous, resourceful cook who leads culinary tours 1/4teaspoon black pepper could makedinner outof of herhometown, 11/4teaspoonssalt anythingand would waste MexicoCity. Sheis 1/8 cup oil absolutelynothing. the latestinaseries 10 stale corn tortillas, cut She would mix leftover of Austin360Cooks intoeighths rice withabeatenegg and writerswho aresharing 1/4medium whiteonion, shredded cheese and fry storiesfrominside thinly sliced pattiesthatwould floatin theirCentral Texas Crema Mexicana or creme asimpletomato broth. Milk kitchens. Interesting fraiche went sour?Noproblem, we’ll in contributing? Crumbledqueso fresco or makechipotle boursin! And Post an Instagram cotija stale tortillas were carefully photo of what you’re cut,sun-dried and stored. cooking up with the Rinse the chilies and dry No matter which kind of sauceorsalsa youuse, youhavetouse tortilla chipsor Perhaps thiscamefrom #Austin360Cooks them well. Split the guajillos staledtortillas, or elseyou aren’t makingchilaquiles. her French grandmother, hashtag.We oftenshare in half lengthwiseand take but shewould use pink- reader photosand out seeds.Toastall chilies ing shears to cutthem into cooking tips in the food lightlyonacomal or frying soften.Addthe vegetables brownand crispy. Drainon toppedwiththe crema, fancytrianglesfor chila- section. pan, thenplaceinabowl and chiliestothe blender paper towels. Pour the some of the cheeseand quilesand strips fortorti- —ADDIE BROYLES and coverwithwarm water. with the soakingwaterand intothe panand cook for remaining thinlysliced lla soup. Letthem soak forafew puree.Add seasoningsand about10minutes,stirring onions. If youpreferthem None of these frugal minutes.Meanwhile, in the blend well. frequently.Add the tortilla soggier, turn the fireoff, resourceswent pastme, same or pan, roastthe Heat the oil in amedium chips, stirring themuntil coverand letthemsoak especiallybecause when Ifound akindred spirit tomatillos, garlic and halfof panovermedium-high heat completely coated with in the saucefor 5minutes mamá wasawayfor work, in fellowMexico Cityexpat theonion, turning frequently and fry thetortilla triangles the sauce. If youwant them before serving.Serves 4. Ihad to cook formy Marisela Godinez.The chef/ until theystart to char and afew at atimeuntil golden crispy, serve immediately brotherand father,start- ownerofElMesón shares —Marisela Godinez ing at around 11 years old. asimilar experience, with Thisscenario wasobviously fond memoriesofher late not unique to my family, mom fixing the dish espe- and thousands haditmuch ciallyfor her.“Ipreferthem sions forbreakfast on Satur- Afew years ago, after a ing iconicMexican imagery Out-of-the-boxweekend worse, but these simple very crispy;the rest of my days,and shemakes aspe- nightofrevelry,mybrother with American pop culture, specials mayinclude spicy dishes speaktomeinthe familyliked them soggier, cial recipe forthe popular took me to brunch at aspot diners enjoycreative takes mangosauce with smoked languageofthe heart. The so my mom would take my Sundaybrunch buffet.“My near ourfamily’sapartment, thatelevate chilaquilesto porkchop,chili poblano memoriesofmaking chi- portion outofthe pan first mom made chilaquilesrojos aptlycalled Chilakillers.The the sublime. In addition sauce and beefmilanesa or laquilesfor my familyas andcook the rest alittle with achili guajillo sauce funky hole in the wall calls to the traditional redand three-cheese sauce with a ayoung woman tug at my longer foreveryone else,” insteadoftomato-based,” itself a“loungeria,” aplayon green, Chilakillers boasts andqueso fresco- heartasImakethem again shetells me. says the chef.Guajillo is a wordsthat combineslounge mole, blackbean, avocado stuffed chili relleno.Add an formymom, whostill needs At her South Lamar res- drychili with amild, fruity, andlonchería —Mexican for and extraspicyversions ice-cold michelada and you my help in thekitchen, per- taurant,she servesthe tra- earthy tastethatlends the neighborhood diner. with avarietyofmeatand canfeel your soul return to haps morethan ever. ditional green and redver- dish an extra rustic quality. Amid kitschydecor blend- veggie toppings. its body.

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