©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
New Zealand (Aotearoa)
Bay of Islands & Northland (p139) Auckland Region (p76) Waikato & Rotorua & Coromandel the Bay of Plenty (p291) Peninsula Taupo & the (p181) Ruapehu Region (p264) Taranaki & The East Coast Whanganui (p332) (p231) Marlborough #_ Wellington & Nelson (p402) Region (p366) The West Coast (p446) Christchurch & Canterbury (p479) Queenstown & Wanaka (p572) Dunedin & Otago Fiordland & (p537) Southland (p608)
Charles Rawlings-Way Brett Atkinson, Andrew Bain, Peter Dragicevich, Samantha Forge, Anita Isalska, Sofia Levin PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
Welcome to New Zealand. . .. 6 AUCKLAND Karekare ...... 129 New Zealand Map...... 8 REGION...... 76 Piha...... 130 New Zealand’s Top 20. . . . 10 Auckland...... 79 Te Henga (Bethells Beach) . . . . . 130 Need to Know...... 22 Hauraki Gulf Islands . . . . 115 Kumeu & Around. . . . . 131 First Time New Zealand. . .. 24 Rangitoto & What’s New...... 26 Motutapu Islands. . . . . 116 Muriwai Beach ...... 132 If You Like...... 27 Motuihe Island...... 116 Helensville...... 132 Month by Month...... 31 Waiheke Island...... 117 North Auckland. . . . . 132 Itineraries ...... 35 Rotoroa Island ...... 122 Long Bay Regional Park...... 132 Getting Around Tiritiri Matangi Island. . . 123 New Zealand...... 40 Shakespear Motuora Island...... 123 Hiking in New Zealand . . .42 Regional Park...... 133 Skiing & Snowboarding. . .. 52 Kawau Island...... 123 Orewa...... 133 Extreme New Zealand. . . . 57 Great Barrier Island. . . . 124 Waiwera...... 134 Eat & Drink Like a Local. . .. 64 West Auckland . . . . . 128 Puhoi ...... 134 Travel with Children. . . . 69 Titirangi...... 128 Regions at a Glance. . . .. 71
JONATHANNODEN-WILKINSON/SHUTTERSTOCK © MARCONI COUTO DE JESUS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
WHITE-WATER RAFTING P63 STANISLAVFOSENBAUER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
WAITANGI DAY P160 MILFORD SOUND P619 Contents
Mahurangi & Scandrett Kai Iwi Lakes...... 178 Hot Water Beach ...... 224 Regional Parks...... 135 Baylys Beach ...... 178 Tairua & Pauanui...... 225 Warkworth...... 135 Dargaville...... 179 Whangamata...... 226 Matakana...... 136 Matakohe...... 180 Waihi & Waihi Beach. . . . 228 Leigh...... 137 Paeroa ...... 230 Pakiri ...... 138 WAIKATO & THE COROMANDEL TARANAKI & BAY OF ISLANDS PENINSULA...... 181 WHANGANUI. . . . . 231 & NORTHLAND. . . . 139 Waikato ...... 183 New Plymouth ...... 234 Whangarei District. . . . 142 Hamilton ...... 183 Around New Mangawhai ...... 142 Raglan ...... 190 Plymouth...... 240 Waipu & Bream Bay. . . . 144 South of Raglan...... 194 Mt Taranaki & Around. . . . 240 Whangarei...... 145 Te Awamutu...... 195 Surf Highway 45...... 244 Whangarei Heads. . . . . 150 Cambridge...... 196 Whanganui ...... 248 Tutukaka Coast & the Matamata ...... 198 Whanganui Poor Knights Islands. . . . 151 National Park ...... 253 Te Aroha...... 199 Bay of Islands...... 152 Palmerston North . . . . . 259 King Country...... 200 Russell...... 155 Around Kawhia...... 200 Paihia, Waitangi Palmerston North . . . . . 263 & Haruru...... 158 Otorohanga...... 201 Urupukapuka Island . . . . . 162 Waitomo Caves...... 202 TAUPO & Kerikeri...... 162 South from Waitomo THE RUAPEHU to Taranaki...... 206 Kawakawa...... 165 REGION...... 264 Te Kuiti...... 207 The Far North...... 166 Lake Taupo Region. . . . 266 Pio Pio, Awakino Taupo...... 266 Matauri & & Mokau...... 207 Tauranga Bays ...... 167 Turangi...... 276 Taumarunui...... 209 Whangaroa Harbour . . . . 167 Owhango...... 210 Ruapehu Region. . . . . 279 Doubtless Bay...... 168 Tongariro Coromandel National Park ...... 279 Karikari Peninsula. . . . . 170 Peninsula...... 210 Whakapapa Village. . . . . 284 Cape Reinga & Miranda...... 212 Ninety Mile Beach. . . . . 170 National Park Village. . . . 285 Thames ...... 212 Kaitaia ...... 172 Ohakune ...... 287 Coastal Route Ahipara...... 173 from Thames to Waiouru...... 290 Hokianga...... 174 Coromandel Town . . . . . 215 Kohukohu ...... 174 Coromandel Town . . . . . 215 ROTORUA & THE Horeke & Around. . . . . 175 Far North BAY OF PLENTY. . . 291 Rawene ...... 175 Coromandel...... 217 Rotorua ...... 293 Opononi & Omapere. . . . 176 Coromandel Town Rotorua Lakes...... 307 to Whitianga...... 219 Waiotemarama Bay of Plenty...... 312 Whitianga...... 220 & Waimamaku...... 177 Tauranga ...... 312 Coroglen & Kauri Coast...... 177 Whenuakite...... 222 Mt Maunganui...... 317 Waipoua Forest...... 177 Hahei ...... 223 Papamoa...... 321 Trounson Kauri Park. . . . 178 ON THE ROAD
JIRIFOLTYN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©STOCK © JIRIFOLTYN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
ABEL TASMAN NATIONAL TRAM IN PARK P435 CHRISTCHURCH P482
Katikati...... 322 Martinborough...... 396 THE WEST COAST. . .. 446 Whakatane ...... 323 Greytown...... 398 Buller Region ...... 448 Ohope...... 329 Masterton & Around. . . . 400 Murchison & Opotiki...... 330 Buller Gorge...... 448 MARLBOROUGH Reefton ...... 449 THE EAST COAST. . .. 332 & NELSON...... 402 Westport & Around . . . . . 450 East Cape...... 333 Marlborough Karamea & Around . . . . . 453 Pacific Coast Hwy . . . . . 333 Region ...... 404 The Great Gisborne ...... 338 Picton...... 404 Coast Road ...... 455 South of Gisborne. . . . . 345 Marlborough Sounds. . . . 408 Charleston & Around. . . . 455 Te Urewera...... 346 Queen Charlotte Punakaiki & Paparoa Track...... 409 National Park ...... 456 Hawke’s Bay ...... 348 Kenepuru & Barrytown & Around. . . . 457 Wairoa & Around ...... 348 Pelorus Sounds ...... 412 Greymouth Region. . . . 458 Napier ...... 350 Blenheim...... 413 Greymouth ...... 458 Hastings & Around. . . . . 358 Kaikoura...... 418 Blackball ...... 461 Cape Kidnappers...... 364 Nelson Region...... 424 Lake Brunner ...... 461 Central Hawke’s Bay. . . . 364 Nelson ...... 424 Kumara ...... 462 Kaweka & Ruby Coast & Westland ...... 462 Ruahine Ranges...... 365 Moutere Hills...... 430 Hokitika...... 462 Motueka...... 431 Ross...... 466 WELLINGTON Kaiteriteri ...... 433 Hari Hari ...... 466 REGION...... 366 Marahau...... 434 Whataroa...... 467 Wellington...... 368 Abel Tasman Kapiti Coast ...... 392 National Park ...... 435 Okarito...... 467 Paekakariki...... 393 Golden Bay...... 439 Westland Tai Poutini National Park ...... 468 Paraparaumu ...... 394 Kahurangi Franz Josef Glacier ...... 468 Waikanae...... 395 National Park ...... 443 Fox Glacier...... 473 The Wairarapa...... 395 Nelson Lakes National Park ...... 444 Haast Region...... 476 Contents
UNDERSTAND
Haast...... 476 Lauder, Omakau New Zealand Jackson Bay & Around. . . . 478 & Ophir...... 566 Today ...... 640 Alexandra...... 567 History...... 642 CHRISTCHURCH Clyde ...... 569 Environment...... 652 & CANTERBURY. . . 479 Cromwell...... 570 Māori Culture...... 658 Christchurch...... 482 Around QUEENSTOWN Arts & Music...... 666 Christchurch...... 501 & WANAKA . . . . . 572 Lyttelton...... 501 Queenstown ...... 574 Banks Peninsula...... 502 Around Queenstown ...... 590 SURVIVAL North Canterbury. . . .. 508 GUIDE Lewis Pass...... 509 Glenorchy ...... 590 Hanmer Springs...... 509 Arrowtown...... 595 Directory A–Z...... 672 Waipara Valley...... 512 Wanaka...... 599 Central Canterbury . . . 513 Around Wanaka...... 605 Transport...... 683 Cardrona...... 605 Selwyn District...... 514 Index...... 692 Arthur’s Pass ...... 514 Lake Hawea...... 606 Map Legend...... 702 Methven...... 516 Makarora...... 607 Mt Somers...... 518 FIORDLAND & South Canterbury . . . . . 518 SOUTHLAND. . . . . 608 Timaru...... 519 Inland & Mackenzie Fiordland...... 610 Country...... 521 Te Anau ...... 610 Aoraki/Mt Cook Milford Hwy...... 617 National Park ...... 531 Milford Sound...... 619 Manapouri...... 620 DUNEDIN Doubtful Sound ...... 621 & OTAGO ...... 537 Central Southland. . . . 622 Waitaki District. . . . . 539 Tuatapere...... 622 Omarama...... 539 Te Waewae & Waitaki Valley...... 540 Colac Bays...... 623 Oamaru ...... 541 Riverton...... 624 Moeraki ...... 549 Invercargill...... 624 SPECIAL Dunedin...... 549 Bluff...... 627 FEATURES Around Dunedin. . . . . 561 The Catlins ...... 628 Hiking in New Zealand. . . . 42 Port Chalmers...... 561 Curio Bay & Around. . . .. 629 Skiing & Otago Peninsula...... 561 Papatowai & Around. . . . 630 Snowboarding...... 52 Central Otago...... 563 Owaka & Around...... 631 Extreme New Zealand. . . . 57 Middlemarch...... 564 Kaka Point & Around. . . . 632 Environment...... 652 Ranfurly...... 564 Stewart Island Naseby...... 565 (Rakiura)...... 633 Māori Culture...... 658 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 35
Itineraries
•#Bay of Islands É
É
AUCKLAND •#
É
Rotorua
•#É T A S M A N S E A •# Taupo Tongariro ÷#
National Park É
Marlborough
Sounds É •#
Marlborough É #_É Wellington
•# Wine Region É
S O U T H É P A C I F I C O C E A N
Christchurch •#
2 WEEKS North & South
From the top of the north to halfway down the south, here’s a quick-fire taste of New Zealand’s best. Kick things off in Auckland: it’s NZ’s biggest city, with awesome restaurants and bars, galleries and boutiques, beaches and bays. Not an urbanite? Hoof it a few hours north to the salt-licked Bay of Islands for a couple of days of R&R. Set your bearings southwards to Rotorua, a unique geothermal hotspot: geysers, mud pools, volcanic vents and Māori culture make for an experience that fires all the senses. Further south, invigorating Taupo has the ragged craters and Emerald Lakes of Ton- gariro National Park nearby. Get into some tramping, mountain biking or skydiving, then boot it down to Wellington, a hip little city with an irrepressible arts scene. Across Cook Strait, see what all the fuss is about in the world-famous Marlborough Wine Region. If you’re not a wine fan, the hypnotically hushed inlets, ranges and wa- terways of the Marlborough Sounds are nearby. Swinging further south, cruise into Christchurch to enjoy southern hospitality in a city of rapid reinvention. 36
Bay of Islands
•# É É Waiheke Island •# AUCKLAND•# É Coromandel •# Peninsula PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN
É •# Rotorua
É T A S M A N •# Napier S E A Hawke's Bay•#
#– Wine Country É
É #_ WELLINGTON •#
It Marlborough
É •# Wine Region i nerar É Kaikoura
•# Christchurch É i es Milford Sound•#
•#Queenstown É •# •# Otago Peninsula Dunedin S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N
4 WEEKS Kiwi Classics
Classy cities, geothermal eruptions, fantastic wine, Māori culture, glaciers, extreme ac- tivities, isolated beaches and forests: just a few of our favourite NZ things. Aka the ‘City of Sails’, Auckland is a South Pacific melting pot. Spend a few days shopping, eating and drinking: this is NZ at its most cosmopolitan. Make sure you get out onto the harbour on a ferry or a yacht, and find a day to explore the beaches and wineries on Waiheke Island. Truck north to the Bay of Islands for a dose of aquatic adventure (dolphins, sailing, sunning yourself on deck), then scoot back southeast to check out the forests and holiday beaches on the Coromandel Peninsula. Further south in Rotorua, get a nose full of eggy gas, confront a 10m geyser, giggle at volcanic mud bubbles and experience a Māori cultural performance. Meander down to Napier on the East Coast, NZ’s attractive art-deco city. While you’re here, don’t miss the bottled offerings of the Hawke’s Bay Wine Country (…ohh, the chardonnay). Down in Wellington, the coffee’s hot, the beer’s cold and wind from the politicians generates its own low-pressure system. This is NZ’s arts capital: catch a live band, buskers, a gallery opening or some theatre. Swan over to the South Island for a couple of weeks to experience the best the south has to offer. Start with a tour through the sauvignon blanc heartland of the Marlbor- ough Wine Region, then chill for a few days between the mountains and the whales offshore in laid-back Kaikoura. Next stop is the southern capital Christchurch, swiftly rebuilding after the earthquakes. Follow the coast road south to the wildlife-rich Otago Peninsula, jutting abstractly away from the Victorian facades of Scottish-flavoured and student-filled Dunedin. Catch some live music while you’re in town. Head inland via SH8 to bungy- and ski-obsessed Queenstown. Don’t miss a detour over to Fiordland for a jaw-dropping road trip and boat cruise around Milford Sound, before returning to Queenstown for your flight back to Auckland. 37
Cape Reinga •# S O U T H
P A C I F I C É O C E A N
Bay of S O U T H É Islands P A C I F I C •# O C E A N
É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN
Waipoua #÷ AUCKLAND•# Forest É
É É TA S M A N É Goat Island S E A É Marine Reserve •#
•# Raglan É É •# T A S M A N •# É
Rangitoto Waitomo Caves Rotorua S E A É Island Whitianga
•# •# It É •#
AUCKLAND •# •# Waiheke É i nerar •# É East Karekare & Piha Island #÷ É Mt Taranaki Coast Waitakere Ranges É R •# Napier
National Park •#
É É Hawke's Bay •# Whanganui Wine Country i es
Raglan •# Palmerston North•# É É
É
•# Waitomo •#Wairarapa Caves WELLINGTON #_
Auckland 10 2 Northern Exposure DAYS Encounter WEEKS
Is there another 1.4-million-strong city Three-quarters of New Zealanders live on with access to two oceans and vibrant Poly- the North Island – time to find out why! nesian culture? Immerse yourself in city Begin in , NZ’s biggest city. and seaside, then swing north and south of Auckland Eat streets abound: try Ponsonby Rd in Auckland to majestic forests and caves. Ponsonby, K Rd in Newton and New North Allow at least three days in Auckland for Rd in Kingsland. Hike up One Tree Hill its stellar bars, restaurants, museums and (Maungakiekie) to burn off resultant calo- beaches. Admire Māori and South Pacific ries, and don’t miss the Auckland Art Gal- Islander exhibits at Auckland Museum, then lery and Auckland Museum. wander across to K Rd for lunch. Visit Auck- Venture south through geothermal land Art Gallery and the iconic Sky Tower, – home to some truly amaz- then Ponsonby for dinner and drinks. Rotorua ing volcanic sights – then cruise over to Ferry over to Rangitoto Island’s the sunny East Coast. By the seaside tramping trails, then chug into Devonport and encircled by the chardonnay vines of for a meal. Admire tall timber in Wait- Hawke’s Bay Wine Country, art-deco akere Ranges Regional Park and wild Napier is a hit with architecture buffs. surf at Karekare and Piha, then hit the Heading south, follow SH2 into the sheepy/ Britomart restaurants. Breakfast in Mt winey region of Wairarapa, before driv- Eden, climb Maungawhau, then ferry-hop to ing over the Rimutaka Range into hip, Waiheke Island for wineries and beaches. art-obsessed Wellington. For your final few days, take your pick Looping back northwest to Auckland, of activities beyond the big smoke. Driv- pick and choose your pit stops: the New ing a northerly loop out of Auckland takes Zealand Rugby Museum in Palmerston you snorkelling at Goat Island Marine North, some crafty glass in Whanganui Reserve, sailing the Bay of Islands, ocean or the epic Mt Taranaki, rising like gazing at Cape Reinga and ogling kauri Olympus behind New Plymouth. Go un- trees at Waipoua Forest. Leave a couple of derground at Waitomo Caves or surf the days to delve south to Waitomo Caves, surf point breaks near Raglan. at Raglan or beach yourself at Whitianga. 38
Marlborough T A S M A N Sounds S E A Nelson Golden Bay•# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Abel Tasman÷# •# National Park •# T A S M A N Marlborough •# Franz Josef Glacier S E A Wine Region & Fox Glacier Mt Hutt Christchurch Punakaiki •# •# R •#
•# Aoraki/ É
R •# Kaikoura É Mt Cook É Banks
É Peninsula Franz Josef Glacier Christchurch & Fox Glacier •# •# •# É
It É É Banks
i nerar Peninsula Wanaka É •#Wanaka •# •# •# Oamaru •#
Queenstown •# •#
É Gibbston Valley •# É É i es Queenstown Doubtful É É Sound •# Glenorchy Catlins S O U T H S O U T H P A C I F I C P A C I F I C O C E A N O C E A N
3 10 WEEKS Southern Circuit DAYS Winter Wanderer
Loop around the best of the South Island. We know, a whole bunch of you are here for one thing only: South Island snow! Wing into Christchurch to find a vibrant city rebuilding post-earthquakes. Grab a cof- Fly into Christchurch and spend a day fee and check out the Canterbury Museum. acclimatising at lively bars and restaurants. Intermediate skier or better? Your next stop City saturated? Visit the geologically/ is for 365 skiable hectares. As you culturally eccentric , Mt Hutt Banks Peninsula push south, detour to admire views of snowy then head north for a wildlife encounter before continuing to in . Continue through to the Aoraki/Mt Cook Kaikoura , offering world-class skiing, famous , and Queenstown Marlborough Wine Region great restaurants and a kickin’ nocturnal lose a day on the whisper-still waterways scene. Coronet Peak is the area’s oldest ski of the . Marlborough Sounds field, with excellent skiing for all levels (great Detour west through artsy Nelson to for snowboarders, too). The visually remark- Abel Tasman National Park and ecof- able Remarkables are more family friendly. riendly (more paintbrushes than Golden Bay Need a break from snow? Drive around people). Dawdle south along the West Coast; Lake Wakatipu to gorgeous ; or allow time to gape at the Pancake Rocks at Glenorchy get lost in the wineries of . and embark on a guided tramp Gibbston Valley Punakaiki Alternatively, Queenstown’s extreme activi- or helihike at or Franz Josef Glacier Fox ties are still on offer in winter: bungy jump- . From here, track inland through Glacier ing, jetboating, mountain biking and more. to hip/hippie Wanaka and adventure sport and ski hub Queenstown. From here, ven- Get back on the slopes in Wanaka ture southwest to Manapouri for a mesmeris- (Queenstown’s low-key little brother). Near- ing day cruise to Doubtful Sound before by ski fields include Treble Cone, Cardrona wending east to the overgrown deep-south and Snow Farm New Zealand, NZ’s only Catlins for a couple of days of waterfalls, commercial Nordic (cross-country) ski area. wave-lashed coves and penguin-spotting. From Wanaka, take an overnight trip to Back up the east coast, wheel through the West Coast to helihike or ice climb Franz Dunedin to surprisingly hip Oamaru, Josef Glacier and Fox Glacier. Backtrack before rolling back into Christchurch. to Queenstown for your next flight. 39 KHOROSHUNOVAOLGA /SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es GLOBALTRAVELPRO /SHUTTERSTOCK © Top: Franz Josef Glacier (p468) Bottom: Glenorchy (p590) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 690
Behind the Scenes
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OUR READERS Andrew Bain Thanks primarily to Jason and Megan Hopper, who Many thanks to the travellers who used the last took me to the heights of the mountains and let me edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful take them to the depths of Queenstown’s basement advice and interesting anecdotes: bars. Gracias to Robyn Columbus Pester for a host of Amanda Wee, Beverley Homel, Bordiec Karine, Carol information, and the myriad business operators who Henshaw, Dana Emanuel, Daniel Brown, Dermot answered my many queries along the journey. To my Gatenby, Diana Draper, Dominique Hudson, Ewan greatest gifts – Kiri and Cooper – a big thanks for Starkey, Gabriella Wortmann, Jean-Pierre Melon, rolling with it as ever as I wandered in and out of NZ Jenny Reeve, Jo Austin, Joshua Hoe, Julie Woods, and our other life. Karen Cumming, Leanne Flynn, Lindsey Pointer, Lyndon Moore, Mateusz Kmiecinski, Melissa Bowles, Peter Dragicevich Michael Batt, Ruth Emerson, Sarah Duff-Dobson, Hitting the road in my home country is always a spe- Scott Menzies, Shenali Kalawana, Stacey Marr, Steve cial treat, especially as it provides the opportunity to Sherman, Susan Murray, Tadeo Hernandez Kelly, spend time with family and friends. Special thanks Wenneke van Weelden. are due to Christine Henderson for her hospitality in the Far North, Richard King in Wellington and the extended Erceg and Wilson clans in Whakatane, espe- WRITER THANKS cially Manda and Les Wilson. Thanks too to my sister Brett Atkinson Joanne Cole for her expert appraisal of the standard Thanks to all of the i-SITE, DOC and information of cappuccino in the Bay of Plenty. centre staff who helped on the road, especially Glenn Ormsby and Mariet van Vierzen in Kaikoura. Samantha Forge Cheers to the innovative chefs and inspired craft Thank you to the many wonderful Kiwis I met through- brewers of New Zealand for surprises and sus- out the South Island for giving so freely of your time, tenance, and to Carol for support on occasional knowledge and kindness. Thanks to Karyn, my trav- beach, island and city getaways. Thanks to my elling companion in Central Otago, for the cake and fellow authors and to Tasmin Waby at Lonely Planet companionship. And finally, huge thanks to the other for the opportunity to once again explore my Kiwi Team NZ authors for their friendship and generosity, backyard. and to everyone at LP responsible for piecing this puzzle together, especially the lovely Tasmin Waby. 691 Anita Isalska Sofia Levin Huge thanks to Tasmin Waby for bringing me Thank you to my supportive and loving husband, aboard Team NZ, and to my fellow writers for being who was left twiddling his thumbs just days after wonderful to work with – especially the above-and- our wedding when I took off for this project; my dear beyond input from Andrew Bain, Brett Atkinson friend Katherine Cameron for constantly checking in and Peter Dragicevich. Thanks for helpful sug- on me on the road, you are a fountain of encourage- gestions from Nathan Watson and the Mountain ment; and to my two biggest fans – Mum and Dad. SCENES THE BEHIND Safety Council, patient counsel from numerous i-SITEs, blunt input from Tamara Goodwin, and Jane Atkin’s great wisdom. Thank you Normal ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Matt, not for accidental acrobatics in Cardrona but Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson for energetic driving, cruising and pub-hopping in BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of Fiordland. the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Te Puia, Rotorua, North Island, Ruth Black/Shutterstock ©
This guidebook was produced Jodie Martire, Lou McGregor, THIS BOOK by the following: Kristin Odijk, Monique Perrin, This 19th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Simon Williamson Planet’s New Zealand Tasmin Waby Assisting Cartographers guidebook was curated by Product Editors Will Allen, Julie Dodkins, James Leversha Charles Rawlings-Way, and Kate Chapman, Tracy Whitmey Cover Researcher researched and written by Senior Cartographer Naomi Parker Brett Atkinson, Andrew Bain, Diana Von Holdt Thanks to Jennifer Carey, Peter Dragicevich, Samantha Heather Champion, Daniel Forge, Anita Isalska and Sofia Book Designer Michael Weldon Corbett, Mazzy Du Plessis, Levin. The previous three Jane Grisman, Liz Heynes, Assisting Editors Janet Austin, editions were written by Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Charles Rawlings-Way, Brett Michelle Bennett, Michelle Coxall, Andrea Dobbin, Victoria Kathryn Rowan, Jessica Ryan, Atkinson, Sarah Bennett, Peter Victoria Smith, Sam Wheeler Dragicevich and Lee Slater. Harrison, Jennifer Hattam, ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 692
Index
A Auckland 12, 71, 76-138, 77, events 154 Tauranga Bay 167 Abel Tasman National Park 78, 80-1, 84, 86, 88, festivals 154 Waiheke 117 18, 435, 435-9, 436, 92, 13, 94, 95 food 139 Waihi Beach 227-30 4, 19 accommodation 76, highlights 140-1 Westshore Beach 353 accommodation 24, 672-4, 97-100 tours 152-4 Wharariki Beach 442 activities 91 see also individual travel seasons 139 beer 29, 66-7, 67 locations beaches 87 travel to/from 154 Auckland 108 tramping 50, 258 children, travel with 101 Bay of Plenty 72, 291, 312- Beervana 33 adventure sports 27, 57-63, climate 76 31, 292 Nelson 429 57, 59, 60, 61, see drinking 107-10 accommodation 291 Tauranga 313 also individual sports entertainment 110-11 climate 291 Beervana 33, 378 Ahipara 173-4 essential Auckland 83 essential Bay of bicycle travel, see cycling air travel 41, 683-5 events 96-7 Plenty 293 bird parks airlines 683-4 festivals 96-7 food 291 Blue Penguin Colony 545 airports 683-4 food 76, 101-7 highlights 292 Katikati Bird Gardens 322 Akaroa 20, 505-8, 506, 20 highlights 77 travel seasons 291 Kiwi Birdlife Park 575 albatrosses 562 history 79 Baylys Beach 178-9 Kiwi Encounter 297 Alexandra 567-9 information 113-38 beaches 27 Moutohora 327 amusement parks itineraries 96 Auckland 87 National Kiwi Centre 463 Puzzling World 599 nightlife 107-10 Bethells Beach 130-1 Otorohanga Kiwi House & animals 653-7 see also shopping 111-12 Bream Bay 144 Native Bird Park 201 individual species sights 79, 82-91 Caroline Bay Park 519 Penguin Place 562 Aoraki/Mt Cook National tours 92-3 Cathedral Cove 223 Pukorokoro Miranda Park 531-6, 534-5, 20, travel seasons 76 children, best for 69 Shorebird Centre 212 44, 50, 51, 522 travel to/from 78, 113-14 Gemstone Beach 623 Royal Albatross Cen- aquariums travel within 114-15 Gillespies Beach 475 tre 562 Eco World Aquarium 405 walking tours 89, 89 Great Barrier Island 124 Wharekawa Wildlife Goat Island Marine Dis- Refuge 226 covery Centre 137-8 Auckland Pride Hahei Beach 223 Festival 96 Wingspan 296-7 Kelly Tarlton’s Sea Life Hawke’s Bay 364 Yellow-Eyed Penguin Aquarium 87 Awakino 207-9 Hot Water Beach 224-5 Colony 546 National Aquarium of New Kai Iwi Beach 248 bird-watching Zealand 353 Karikari Peninsula 170 B Catlins, the 628 Tongariro National Trout ballooning 186 Mangamaunu Beach 421 Centre 276 Kaikoura 419 Banks Peninsula 20, 502- Mangawhai Heads 142 Ardern, Jacinda 640, 651 Lake Brunner 461 9, 503 Matauri Bay 167 area codes 23, 679-80 Stewart Island bargaining 25 New Chum’s Beach 219 (Rakiura) 633 Arrowtown 595-605, Barrytown 457-8 Ninety Mile Beach 170-2 Waikanae 395 596, 30 bars 29, 65, 66-7 North Shore 100 Arthur’s Pass 514-16 birds 653-5, 44, 382 bathrooms 680 Ocean Beach 200 arts 666-70, see Blackball 461 665 bats 653-5 Omaha 136 also individual arts Blenheim 413-18 Bay of Islands 15, 71, 139-41, Orewa 133 astronomy, see stargazing Blue Lake 566, 11 152-80, 140-1, 153, 14 Pakiri Beach 138 ATMs 678 Bluff 627-8 accommodation 139 Palmerston North 263 boat tours see individual activities 152 Scotts Beach 453 locations climate 139 Tahuna Beach 425 boat travel 684, 685 see Map Pages 000 essential Bay of Tata Beach 441 also individual locations Photo Pages 000 Islands 142 Taupo Bay 167 books 640, 666 693 breweries Waipu 144 St Joseph’s Church 254 Crowded House 195, 669 Greymouth 458 Waitomo Caves 19, 202- St Mary of the culture 640-1 Kapiti Coast 394 6, 204, 19 Angels 369-72 Curio Bay 629-30 Martinborough 396 caving St Mary’s Church 87 curling 566 Motueka 432, 433 Charleston 456 St Patrick’s Basilica 545 currency 22, 678 Nelson , 425 Karamea 453 St Patrick’s Cathedral 83 customs regulations 674
Palmerston North 259 Raglan 190 St Patrick’s Catholic cycling 685, 60, see INDEX Waipara Valley 513 Waitomo 203-30 Church 505 also mountain biking Wanaka 599 cell phones 22, 680 St Paul’s Anglican Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Church 159 budget 23 Charleston 455-6 Trail 532 B-D St Paul’s Cathedral 551 Buller Gorge 448-9 children, travel with 69-70 Arrowtown 595-6 St Peter’s Anglican Christ Church Raukorore Banks Peninsula 504, 505 Buller Region 448-55 Church 505 333, 336, 362 Bay of Islands 152 bungy jumping 59, 57, 61 St Stephen’s Church 524 Christchurch 73, 479-536, Blenheim 414 Auckland 91 Transitional Cathe- 482-500, 480-1, 483, Cambridge 196 Hanmer Springs 510 dral 487, 523 484-5, 4, 522-3 Christchurch 490 Queenstown 577 Wellington Cathedral of accommodation 479, Rotorua 298 St Paul 373 Coromandel Peninsula 492-5 220, 223 Taupo 270 cinema 640, 667-8, see activities 489-90 Gisborne 341 bus travel 41, 685-6 also films children, travel with 492 cities 27 Golden Bay 440 climate 479 Clay Cliffs Paritea 539 Great Taste Trail 431 C drinking 497-8 Hokitika 463 climate 22, 675, 22 cable cars 298-9, 372-3, entertainment 498-9 Kaikoura 421 climbing 58-9, 59 487, 574-5, 382 essential Lake Taupo Cycle Aoraki/Mt Cook National cafes 66, 66 Christchurch 487 Challenge 34 Park 533 Cambridge 196-8 events 491-2 Mackenzie County 528 Auckland 91-7 Canterbury 73, 479-536, festivals 491-2 Marlborough Dunedin 561 480-1, 522 food 479, 495-7 Sounds 408-9 Hamilton 185 accommodation 479 highlights 480-1 Napier 354 Mt Maunganui 318 climate 479 history 482 Nelson 425-6, 60 Oamaru 546 essential Canterbury 487 information 499 Nga Haerenga (New Queenstown 575-7 food 479 itineraries 491 Zealand Cycle Trail) Raglan 190, 195 travel seasons 479 nightlife 497-8 60, 197 Rotorua 299 Canterbury Earthquake shopping 499 North Auckland 133, 137 Taupo 270 National Memorial 26 sights 482-9 Otago 564, 565 Tauranga 313 Cape Kidnappers 364 travel seasons 479 Rotorua 300 Wanaka 601 Cape Palliser 399 travel to/from 499-500 Taupo 270-1 Wellington 375 Cape Reinga 170-2 travel within 500 Tauranga 313 Clyde 569 Cardrona 605-6 Christchurch Botanic Tongariro River Trail 276 coffee 66, 557 car travel 40-1, 133, Gardens 486, 523 Wairarapa, the 396 687-9, 25 Church of the Good Shep- Colac Bay 623-4 Wanaka 602 driving licenses 687 herd 527, 522 Collingwood 442-3 Wellington 374, 375 hire 40, 687-8 churches & cathedrals Cook, James 645 Westport 451 insurance 40, 688 Christ Church Coroglen 222-3 Whangarei 143 resources 40 Cathedral 425 Coromandel Peninsula 71, road rules 689 Christ Church Raukorore 181, 210-30, 182, 211 333, 336, 362 accommodation 181 D Castlepoint 401, 382 Daily Telegraph Building 351 Christ Church, climate 181 cathedrals, see churches & dangers, see safety Russell 156 essential Coromandel cathedrals Dargaville 179-80 Catlins, the 628-33 Church of Sts Peter & Peninsula 183 Paul 134 debit cards 678 caves food 181 Church of the Good highlights 182 disabilities, travellers Abbey Caves 145 with 681 Shepherd 527, 522 history 210-12 Cathedral Caves 630 discount cards 674-5 Hiona St Stephen’s travel seasons 181 Cave Stream Scenic Church 330 distilleries Reserve 515 Coromandel Town 215-17 Holy Trinity Cathedral 87 Cardrona Distillery & Kawiti Caves 166 Coronet Peak 54, 580, 52 Old St Paul’s 372 Museum 606 Muriwai’s Cave 325 craft beer, see beer Putiki Church 248-9 Dancing Sands Ngarua Caves 439 crayfish 423 Distillery 441 Sacred Heart Basilica 519 Rawhiti Cave 440 credit cards 678 diving & snorkelling 61 St Faith’s Anglican Croatian settlement 174 Te Anau Glowworm Church 296 Bay of Islands 160 Caves 610 Cromwell 570-1 Bay of Plenty 325 694 diving & snorkelling electricity 675 G Haruru 158-62 continued emergencies 23 galleries, see museums Hastings 358-64, 359 Dunedin 554 environmental issues 654 & galleries Hauraki Gulf 12 East Cape 336 etiquette 25 gannets 131, 132, 328, 364 Hauraki Gulf Islands Milford Sound 619 events, see festivals & gay travellers 677-8, 678 115-28, 12 North Auckland 138 events Auckland 96, 109 Havelock 412
INDEX INDEX Picton 405 exchange rates 23 geography 652 Hawera 247-57 Rena wreck 320 extreme sports, see adven- geology 652-3 Hawke’s Bay 348-65, 350 ture sports Tauranga 313 geothermal areas health 675-7, see
D-H Whangarei Heads 151 Craters of the Moon 270 also safety dolphins 420, 655-7, 14 Hell’s Gate 307 giardiasis 677
F Doubtful Sound 621-2 Fairlie 526-7 Orakei Korako 271 infectious diseases 677 Doubtless Bay 168-70 Farewell Spit 442 Waimangu Volcanic insects 676 drinks 64-8 Far North 166-74 Valley 307 pharmaceuticals 676 driving, see car travel festivals & events 31-4, Wai-O-Tapu Thermal tap water 676 Driving Creek Railway 26 see also individual Wonderland 307, 16 Heaphy Track 17, 443, 17 Dunedin 74, 537, 549-51, locations Wairekei Natural Thermal Helensville 132 Valley 269 553-60, 538, 550-1, Auckland Pride Festi- heliskiing 55 val 96 Wairekei Terraces 268-9 552, 542, 543 hiking, see tramping, accommodation 537, Beervana 33, 378 Whakarewarewa 295-6 walking tours 555-6 Fringe 31, 377 Geraldine 525-6 historic buildings & sites activities 554-5 Marlborough Wine & geysers Armstrong Disappearing climate 537 Food Festival 31, 414 Lady Knox 307 Gun 562 drinking 558-9 NZ Tattoo & Art Festival Pōhutu 295 Arrowtown Gaol 595 34, 237 entertainment 559 Prince of Wales’ Arts Centre 487 Te Matatini National essential Dunedin 541 Feathers 295 Bendigo Historic Kapa Haka Festival 32 food 537, 556-8 giardiasis 677 Reserve 570 film 389, 640, 667-8 highlights 538 Gibbston Valley 582 Broken Hills Gold-Mine Finn, Tim & Neil 195, 669 history 549 Gisborne 338-45, 340 Workings 225 Fiordland 74, 608-38, 610- information 560 glaciers 469, 472, 473 Chinese Settlement 595 22, 609 literature 559 Fox 473-6, 474, 17 Cromwell Heritage accommodation 608 Precinct 570 nightlife 558-9 Franz Josef 468-73, climate 608 Denniston Plateau 451 shopping 559-60 470, 39 essential Fiordland 610 Ed Hillary Walkway 201 sights 550-4 Tasman Glacier 532 food 608 Elms, the 312 travel seasons 537 Glenorchy 590-5, 39 highlights 609 Firth Tower 198 travel to/from 560 glowworms 203, 463-78, travel seasons 608 Fort Taiaroa 562 travel within 560 610-38 fishing Fyffe House 419 Duntroon 540-1 Golden Bay 439-43 Arrowtown 602-7 Goldmine Experience DVDs 674 Gore 628 Banks Peninsula 505 212-3 Great Barrier Island 124- Kaikoura 422 Katherine Mansfield 8, 126 Lake Brunner 461 House 372 E Great Coast Road 455-8 earthquakes 489, 641, 653 Napier 353 Kerikeri Mission Sta- Great Walks 28-9, 46-8, 49, tion 163 East Cape 333-48 Rotorua 300 see also tramping Kinder House 87 East Coast 72, 332-65, Taupo 272, 278 greenstone, see pounamu 334-5 Turangi 276-7 Koriniti Marae 255 Greymouth 458-62, 460 accommodation 332 Kororipo Pā 163 food 28, 64-8, 675, 28, Greytown 398-400 climate 332 64, see also individual Larnach Castle 562 essential East Coast 333 locations Maerewhenua Māori food 332 modern NZ cuisine 65 H Rock Painting Site 541 highlights 334-5 vegetarian & vegan 65 Haast 476-7 Maiki 156 travel seasons 332 Footrot Flats 344 Haast Pass Hwy 478 Maketu Marae 200 travel to/from 333 forests, see national parks Haast Region 476-8 Mansion House 123 travel within 333 & reserves Hahei 223-4 Māori Rock Carvings 269 Egmont National Park Forgotten World Hairy Feet Waitomo 208 Mataatua 323-4 240-3, 45 Highway 244 haka 306 Mitchells Gully Gold Mine 456 Fox Glacier 473-6, 474, 17 Hamilton 183-90, 187 Monmouth Redoubt 313 Franz Josef Glacier 468- hāngi 296, 306 Napier Prison 353 73, 470, 39 Hanmer Springs 509- Map Pages 000 New Zealand Parliament Fringe 31, 377 12, 510 Photo Pages 000 368, 10-11 Hari Hari 466-7 695 Old Government North Auckland 138 Otago 570 Nelson 426 Buildings 372 Ohakune 288 Queenstown 578, 62 New Plymouth 236 Old Government Owaka 632 Rotorua 298 North Auckland 134 House 83 Palmerston North 263 Taupo 270 Okarito 468 Olveston 553-4 Punakaiki 457 Te Anau 615 Otago Peninsula 563 Pompallier Mission 155 Raglan 190 Tuatapere 623 Punakaiki 457
Rangikapiti Pā Historic INDEX Rotorua 311 Whanganui National Raglan 190 Reserve 169 Ruapehu Region 290 Park 256 Rotorua 309-10 Raurimu Spiral 209 Selwyn District 514 Stewart Island Riccarton House &
Rakiura) 636 H-L) Bush 488 Wanganui 250 K hot springs Taupo 272
Ruapekapeka Pā 165 Kahurangi National Park Tauranga 313 Takiroa Māori Rock Athenree Hot Springs 228 17, 443-4 Waiheke Island 119 Painting Site 540 Franz Josef Glacier 471 Kaikoura 12, 418-24, Te Hana Te Ao Hanmer Springs 509 420, 13 Wanaka 601 Marama 136 Lewis Pass 509 Kaitaia 172-3 Wellington 374-5, 375 Te Waimate Mission 163 Lost Spring 220 Kaiteriteri 433-4 Whanganui National Park 255-6 Waitangi Treaty Grounds Miranda Hot Springs 212 Kaiwaka 143 Whangarei 147, 151 158-9 Morere Hot Springs 345 Kaka Point 632-3 kea 655, , Waiuta 449-50 Mt Maunganui 317 Kapiti Coast 392-5 44 382 history 30, 642-51, Kenepuru Sound 412-13 Opal Hot Springs 198 Kapiti Island 393, 382 see also individual Parakai Springs 132 Kerikeri 162-5, 164 locations Karamea 453-5 Rotorua 299 King Country 200-10, 184 20th-century 649-50 Karangahake Gorge 229 Taranaki Thermal Kīngitanga 201 British connections Karekare 129-30 Spa 236 kiteboarding 646-51 Karikari Peninsula 170 Taupo 271 Raglan 190 European settlement Katikati 322-3 Te Aroha Mineral 644-6 Kauri Coast 177-80 kitesurfing 61 Spas 199 land wars 646-8 kauri trees 135, 145, 178, Karikari Peninsula 170 Te Puia Hot Springs 200 Māori settlement 642-3 180, 219 Nelson 426 Waikite Valley Thermal Te Matua Ngahere 177 North Auckland 136 Musket Wars 646 Pools 310-11 Kawakawa 165-7 kiwis 638 Northland War 157 Wairakei Terraces & Kohukohu 174-5 Parihaka Movement 246 Thermal Health Spa Kawau Island 123-4 websites 642, 648 268-9 Kaweka 365 kumara 179 hitching 689 Waiwera Thermal Kawhia 200-1 Kumara 462 Hobbiton 198 Resort 134 kayaking & canoeing 61, Kumeu 131, 131-2 Hobbit, the 93, 198, 208, Hot Water Beach 224-5 63, 200, 412, 62 Kurow 540 389, 412, 667 housing crisis 641 Abel Tasman National Hokianga 174-7 Park 437 Aoraki/Mt Cook National L Hokitika 462-6, 464 I Park 533-4 Lake Brunner 461 Hokitika Gorge 463 immigration 683 Auckland 91 Lake Hawea 606-7 holidays 679 Inglewood 243 Banks Peninsula 505 Lake Hayes 598 Hōne Heke 157 insurance 677 Bay of Islands 152, Lake Taupo Region 266-79 Horeke 175 health 675-6 159-60 Lake Tekapo 527-9, 522 horse racing 96 internet access 677 Bay of Plenty 329 Lake Waikaremoana Track horse riding internet resources 23 Cambridge 196-7 347, 348, 362-3 Cardrona 606 Invercargill 624-7, 625 Christchurch 489 lakes Coromandel itineraries 35-8, , , Coromandel Peninsula Blue Lake 566, 11 Peninsula 222 35 36 37, 38 223-4, 226 Brunner 461 Dunedin 561 Doubtful Sound 622 Dry Lake 288 Far North 173 Far North 167 Hawea 606-7 Franz Josef Glacier 471 J Franz Josef Glacier 471 Hayes 598 Glenorchy 594 Jackson Bay 478 Golden Bay 441 Inferno Crater Lake 307 Golden Bay 442 jetboating 59-60 Kaikoura 419, 422 Kai Iwi Lakes 178 Hastings 358 Buller Gorge 448 Karamea 453 Kaniere 463 Kapiti Coast 393 Coromandel Peninsula 223 Manapouri 621 Karapiro 196 Karamea 453 Glenorchy 594 Marlborough Sounds Mahinapua 463 Kauri Coast 179 408-9, 409 Hanmer Springs 510 Matheson 474 Mackenzie County Milford Sound 619 King Country 209 Pukaki 530 524, 528 Napier 353 Methven 516 Rotokura 288 Marahau 434 National Park Village 286 Napier 353 Murchison 448 Rotorua 294-5, 308, 28 696 lakes continued history 404 Moutohora (Whale Coromandel Mining & Roxburgh 568 travel seasons 402 Island) 327 Historic Museum 215 Ruataniwha 529 travel to/from 404 Mt Cook, see Aoraki/Mt Dargaville Museum 179 Cook National Park Tarawera 307 wineries 416-17, 415 Dowse Art Museum 373 Mt Eden 85, Tekapo 527-9, 522 Marlborough Sounds 408- 95 Dunedin Public Art Gallery 550 Tutira 349 9, 410 Mt Karioi 194
INDEX INDEX E Hayes & Sons 625 Wairarapa 395 Marlborough Wine & Food Mt Maunganui (Mauao) 317-22, East Coast Museum of Wakatipu 574 Festival 31, 414 318 Mt Ngauruhoe 281 Technology 340 Wilkie 631 Martinborough 396-8 Mt Pureora 208 Edwin Fox Maritime L-M massage 299 language 22, 25 Museum 405 Lauder 566-7 Masterton 400-1 Mt Ruapehu 281, 20 Fairlie Heritage Mt Somers 518 legal matters 677 Matakana 136-7 Museum 526 Leigh 137-8 Matakohe 180 Mt Taranaki 240-4, 45 Forrester Gallery 546 lesbian travellers 677-8 Matamata 198-9 Mt Titiraupenga 208 Founders Heritage Auckland 96, 109 measures 674 Mt Tongariro 281 Park 425 Lewis Pass 509 medical services 676 Murchison 448-9 Fun Ho! National Toy literature 559, 640, 666 medications 676 Muriwai Beach 132 Museum 243 Lorde 670 Methven 516-18 museums & galleries Gallery De Novo 559 Lord of the Rings, The 93, Middlemarch 564 Academy Galleries 373 Geraldine Historical 198, 377, 389, 529- Milford Hwy 617-18 Aigantighe Art Gal- Museum 525 30, 667 Milford Sound 15, 581-2, lery 519 Geraldine Vintage luge 565, 581 619-20, 2, 14, 62 Akaroa Museum 505 Car & Machinery Museum 525 Lyttelton 501-2 Miranda 212 Aoraki/Mt Cook National Gold Discovery mobile phones 22, 680 Park Visitor Centre 531-2 Centre 228 Moeraki 549 M Aratoi Wairarapa Govett-Brewster Art Mokau 207-9 Mackenzie County 521-31 Museum of Art & Gallery 234 Molesworth Station 512 Makarora 607 History 400 Gumdiggers Park 171 money 22-3, 674-5, 678-9 Manapouri 620-1 Art Deco Museum, Hastings City Art Moriori 643 Mangawhai 142-4 Ranfurly 564 Gallery 358 motorcycle travel 687-9 ArtsPost 185 Historical Maritime Māori arts 660-5, 665 Motueka 431-3, Park 230 Māori culture 16, 99, 326 432 Auckland Art Gallery Motuihe Island 116 82-3 Höglund Art Glass 430 arts 660-5, 665 Motuora Island 123 Auckland Museum 86-7 Hokianga Bone Carving cultural centres 295-6 Motutapu Island 116 Bill Richardson Transport Studio 176 festivals 29, 32 mountain biking 58, see World 624 International Antarctic rock carvings 269 also cycling Bluff Maritime Centre 488-9 traditional music 305 Alexandra 567 Museum 627 Kaikoura Museum 419 villages 136 Bay of Islands 159-60 Bohemian Museum 134 Kauri Museum 180 Māori history 201, 246, Bay of Plenty 325, 330 Butler Point Whaling Kawhia Regional Mu- 266, 642-3 Museum 169 seum & Gallery 200 Coromandel Penin- North Island 162, 192, sula 213 Cambridge Museum 196 KD’s Elvis Presley 243, 272, 337 Museum 247 Golden Bay 439 Canterbury Museum 487 South Island 394, 450, Kiwi North 146 Great Barrier Island 125 C Company Memorial 501, 540, 592 House 339 Kurow Heritage & Infor- Hanmer Springs 509-10 Māori people 658-65, 17 Central Art Gallery 488 mation Centre 540 Kaiteriteri 433 maps 678 Central Hawke’s Bay Lakes District Museum & Karamea 453 marae 662 Settlers Museum 365 Gallery 595 King Country 209 Marahau 434-5 Central Stories 567 Len Lye Centre 234 Mackenzie County 526 markets 30, 66 Christchurch Art Lighthouse 85 Mt Te Aroha 199 Marlborough 73, 402-45, Gallery 482 Lost Gypsy Gallery 630 403, 415, 68 National Park Village 286 City Gallery Mangawhai Museum 142 accommodation 402 Oamaru 546 Wellington 369 McCahon House 129 climate 402 Ohakune 287-8 Clapham’s National Mercury Bay Museum 220 Clock Museum 145 essential Queenstown 579-80 Moko Artspace 224 Marlborough 404 Rotorua 299 Classic Flyers NZ 317 MOTAT 91 food 402 Wanaka 601 Classics Museum 185 MTG Hawke’s Bay 351 highlights 403 Wellington 375 Clyde Historical Nairn Street Cottage 373 Museums 569 West Auckland 132 National Army Whanganui National Coaltown Museum 451 Museum 290 Map Pages 000 Park 257 Cobblestones National Library of New Photo Pages 000 Moutere Hills 430-1 Museum 399 Zealand 373 697 National Motorsport Taranaki Aviation, Trans- N Nelson Lakes National Museum 570 port & Technology Park 444-5 Napier 350-8, 352, Museum 240 National Transport & Toy 362, 363 Ngā Manu 395 Museum 599 Taranaki Pioneer Village accommodation 354-5 Omahuta Forest 167 Nelson Provincial 243-4 activities 353 Paparoa National Park Museum 425 Taupo Museum 269 456-7 drinking 356 New Zealand Cricket Tauranga Art Gallery 312
Piripiri Caves Scenic INDEX entertainment 357 Museum 373 Tawhiti Museum 247 Reserve 206 events 354 New Zealand Te Ahu Centre 172 Puketi Forest 167 festivals 354 Glassworks 248 Te Ana Māori Rock Art Pureora Forest Park 208 food 355-6 M-N New Zealand Maritime Centre 519 Rabbit Island/ Museum 85 Te Aroha Museum 199 history 350-1 Moturoa 430 New Zealand Portrait Te Awamutu Museum 195 information 357 Redwoods Whakare- Gallery 373 Te Hikoi Southern nightlife 356 warewa Forest 296 New Zealand Rugby Journey 624 sights 351-3 Ruataniwha Conserva- Museum 259 Te Kōngahu Museum of tours 353 tion Park 528, 54 New Zealand Sports Hall Waitangi 158 travel to/from 357 Sanctuary Mountain of Fame 553 Te Kōputu a te whanga a travel within 358 Maungatautari 196 Ngā Taonga Sound & Toi 324-5 Scandrett Regional Vision 373 Naseby 565-6 Te Manawa 259 Park 135 No 1 Parnell 175 national parks & reserves Te Papa 368-9 657, 656 Shakespear Regional North Otago Park 133 Museum 546 Te Uru Waitakere Con- Abel Tasman National Tangoio Falls Scenic temporary Gallery 129 Park 18, 435, 435-9, 19 Okains Bay Māori & Reserve 349 Colonial Museum 503 Toi Art gallery 26 AH Reed Memorial Kauri Tararua Forest Park 401 Old School Arts Toitū Otago Settlers Park 145 Tawharanui Regional Centre 190 Museum 550 Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park 136 Omaka Aviation Heritage Torpedo Bay Navy Park 531-6, 534-5, Te Paki Recreation Centre 413 Museum 88 20, 44, 50, 51, 522 Reserves 171 Opotiki Museum 330 Turnbull Gallery 373 Arai-te-uru Recreation Te Urewera 346-8 Otago Museum 554 Vanished World Reserve 176 Centre 541 Tongariro National Park Owaka Museum & Arthur’s Pass National 11, 279-84, 280, 11, 20 Catlins Information Victoria Battery Tramway Park 515 Centre 631 & Museum 229 Bellbird Bush Scenic Trounson Kauri Park 178 Paeroa Museum 230 Village Arts 174 Reserves 349 Waipatiki Scenic Reserve 349 Percy Thomson Volcanic Activity Boundary Stream Scenic Gallery 243 Centre 276 Reserve 349 Waipoua Forest 177-8 Petone Settlers Waiheke Island Coromandel Forest Wairere Boulders Nature Museum 372 Artworks 117 Park 218 Park 175 Puke Ariki 234 Waiheke Museum & Dome Forest 135 Waitakere Ranges Historic Village 117 Regional Park. 129 Quake City 482 Doneraille Park 345 Waikato Museum 184 Wenderholm Regional Rakiura Museum 634-5 Egmont National Park Waimarie Centre 248 Park 134 Rotorua Museum 293-4 240-2, 45 Waipu Museum 144 Westland Tai Poutini Russell Museum 156 Hemi Matenga Memorial Wairoa Museum 349 Park Scenic National Park 468-76 Sarjeant on the Reserve 395 Whanganui National Park Quay 248 Waitomo Caves Discov- ery Centre 203 Hinewai Reserve 502-3 253-9, 254 School of Mines & Min- Wallace Arts Centre 90 Hukutaia Domain 330 Wharerata State eralogical Museum 213 Forest 345 Warbirds & Wheels 599 Kahurangi National Park Sea Walls, Napier 351 Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne Warkworth District’s 17, 443-4 Shantytown 458 Conservation Park 311 Museum 135 Lake Rotokura Ecological Sir Edmund Hillary White Pine Bush Scenic Wellington Museum 368 Reserve: 288 Alpine Centre 532-3 Reserve 349 Western Bay Long Bay Regional Park South Canterbury National Park Village 285-7 Museum 322 132-3 Museum 519 Nelson 73, 402-4, 424-30, Whanganui Regional Mahurangi Regional Southland Museum & Art Park 135 403, 426, 60 Gallery 625 Museum 248 Whangarei Art Mangapohue Natural accommodation 402 Southward Car Museum Bridge Scenic climate 402 394-5 Museum 146 Reserve 206 essential Nelson 404 Steampunk HQ 546 Whitestone City 26, 546 Marble Hill 509 food 402 Stuart Street Potters Wool Shed 401 World of WearableArt & Morere Springs Scenic highlights 403 Co-operative 560 Reserve 345 Suter Art Gallery 26, 425 Classic Cars Museum travel seasons 402 424-5 Mt Aspiring National Tairawhiti Museum 339 Nelson Lakes National music 305, 666-70 Park 602 Park 444-5 698 New Zealand Parliament Otago Peninsula 21, 561-4, Eden Garden 85 top tips 24 368, 10-11 550-1, 21, 542 Giant’s House 505 transport 40-1 New Plymouth 234- Otorohanga 201-2 Glenfalloch Woodland travel seasons 22, 31-4 40, 235 Owaka 631-2 Garden 562 what to wear 24 newspapers 674 Owhango 210 Government Pohara 441-2 Nga Haerenga (New oysters 627 Gardens 295 politics 640-1
INDEX INDEX Zealand Cycle Trail) Hackfalls Arboretum 345 Poor Knights Islands 151-4 60, 197 Hagley Park 487 population 641 Ngāti Tarara 174 P Haiku Pathway 322 Port Chalmers 561 Ninety Mile Beach 170-2 Paaku 225 Hamilton Gardens 184-5 N-R postal services 679 North Auckland 132-8 Pacific Coast Highway Jubilee Gardens 196 333-8, , pounamu 462, 463, 363 362 Northland 71, 139-80, Kuirau Park 294 465, 467 Pacific Island people 112 140-1 Memorial Park 185 Pouto Point 180 accommodation 139 paddle-boarding Oamaru Public public holidays 679 climate 139 Banks Peninsula 505 Gardens 546 pubs 29, 65, 66-7 essential Northland 142 Bay of Islands 159-60 One Tree Hill 88, 90 Puhoi 134-5 food 139 Bay of Plenty 163 Otari-Wilton’s Bush 369 Puketi 167 highlights 140-1 Nelson 426 Pollard Park 414 Puketui Valley 225 travel seasons 139 North Auckland 136 Pukeahu National War Punakaiki 456-7 Northland War 157 Raglan 190 Memorial Park 369 NZ Tattoo & Art Festival Tauranga 313 Pukeiti 240 34, 237 Wellington 374-5 Pukekura Park 234 Q Paekakariki 393-4 Queen Elizabeth Park Queen Charlotte Track Paeroa 230 393, 400 409-12 O Queenstown Queenstown 15, 74, 572- Oakura 245 Paihia 158-62, 159 Pakiri 138 Gardens 574 607, 574-90, 573, 576, Oamaru 541-8, 544 , , , , Palmerston North 259- Rapaura Water 578 591 15 61 62 Oban 634-5, 636-8, 637 Gardens 215 accommodation 572, 63, 261 observatories, see star- 583-5 Pancake Rocks 456 Robbins Park 313 gazing activities 575, 577-81 Papamoa 321-2 Square, the 259 Ohakune 287-90 children, travel with 585 Paparoa National Park Te Mata Trust Park 358 Ohau 55, 54 456-7 Timaru Botanic climate 572 Ohinemutu 296-7 Papatowai 630-1 Gardens 519 drinking 587-8 Ohope 329-30 paragliding 59, 358 Wanaka Station Park 599 entertainment 588 Okarito 467-8 Paraparaumu 394-5 Wellington Botanic essential Queenstown 575 Gardens 368 Omakau 566-7 parasailing 61 events 582-3 Western Springs 88 Omapere 176-7 Bay of Islands 152 festivals 582-3 Whangarei Quarry Omarama 539-40 Queenstown 580 food 572, 585-7 Onga Onga 365 Gardens 145 highlights 573 Taupo 270 Wintergarden 87 Oparara Basin 454 Paritutu Rock 234 history 574 opening hours 23, 679 passports 683 information 589 parks & gardens Pauanui 225-6 Ophir 566-7 Albert Park 83 itineraries 580 Opononi 176-7 Peel Forest 524-5 nightlife 587-8 Auckland Botanic Pelorus Bridge 413 Opotiki 330-1 Gardens 90-1 shopping 589 Pelorus Sound 412-13 Opoutere 226 Auckland Domain 87 sights 574-5 penguins 562 Opunake 246-8 Bastion Point 87-8 tours 581-2 phonecards 680 Orakei Korako 271 Botanic Gardens 486-7 travel seasons 572 Picton 404-8, 406 Otago 18, 74, 537-71, Brick Bay Sculpture travel to/from 589-90 538, 18 Trail 136 Piha 130, 94 travel within 590 accommodation 537 Brooklands Park 235 Pio Pio 207-9 climate 537 Butterfly Forest 213 planning 24-5 R essential Otago 541 Caroline Bay Park 519 budgeting 23 radio 674 food 537 Christchurch Botanic calendar of events 31-4 rafting 58, 63, 2, 28 highlights 538 Gardens 486, 523 children, travel with Buller Gorge 448 travel seasons 537 Dead Dog Bay 117 69-70 East Cape 337 Otago Central Rail Trail 18 Dunedin Botanic internet resources 23 Garden 554 itineraries 35-8, 35, 36, Hanmer Springs 510 Dunedin Chinese Garden 37, 38 Kaikoura 422 551, 553 NZ basics 22-3 Mackenzie County 524 Map Pages 000 Eastwoodhill Arboretum NZ regions 71-4 Murchison 448 Photo Pages 000 339-40 repeat visitors 26 Napier 353 699 Queenstown 577-8 Ruby Coast 430-1 Driving Creek Railway 215 Whangarei 146 Rotorua 309-10 rugby 186, 559, 640-1, 18 Dunedin 555 Sky Tower 83, 57, 95 Ruapehu Region 290 Hamilton Sevens 31 Goldfields Railway 228 smoking 674 Taupo 270 New Zealand Rugby Hauraki Rail Trail 213 Snell, Sir Peter 247 Tongariro River 277 Museum 259 Oamaru Steam & snorkelling, see diving & Waitomo Caves 203-5 Russell 155-8, 155 Rail 546 snorkelling
Wanaka 601 TranzAlpine Railway 21, snowboarding, see skiing & INDEX 458-9, 491, snowboarding Raglan 190-3, 191 21 S seals 655-7, 13, 542 Southland 74, 608-38, 609 Rainbow Warrior 152, 168 safety 679
Selwyn District 514 accommodation 608 R-S Rakiura 633-8, 634-5 beaches 224, 676 senior travellers 675 climate 608
Ranfurly 564-5 hypothermia 676 skiing & snowboarding 20, essential Southland 610 Rangitoto Island 116 mountains 283 29, 52-6, 56, 20, 52, food 608 Rawene 175-6 Mt Taranaki 242 54, 55 highlights 609 Reefton 449-50 tramping 44 Awakino Skifield 541 travel seasons 608 Rena wreck 320 sailing Broken River 56 Split Enz 669 responsible travel 46 Auckland Anniversary Cardrona 54-5, 606 sports, see individual sports Riverstone 547 Day Regatta 96 Cheeseman 56 St Bathans 566 Riverton 624 Tall Ship Race 156 Coronet Peak 54, stargazing 527 rock climbing, see climbing Taupo 272 580, 52 Aoraki/Mt Cook National Ross 466 scenic drives 41 Craigieburn Valley 56 Park 534 Rotoroa Island 122-3 Alexandra to Milton on Fox Peak 55 Great Barrier Island 26, Rotorua 16, 72, 291-307, the SH8 568 Hanmer Springs 56, 510 124, 125 292, 294, 16 Coromandel coastal internet resources 53 Space Place 369-401 accommodation 291, route 215 Stardome 90 300-3 Coromandel Goldfield Mackenzie County 526, 527 Whakatane activities 297 Experience 215-6 Manganui 54, 241 Observatory 325 budget travel 304 Coromandel Peninsula Methven 516 Stewart Island 633-8, climate 291 219-20 Mt Dobson 55 634-5 drinking 305 Forgotten World Highway 244 Mt Hutt 55, 517 Stratford 243-4 entertainment 305 Great Barrier Island 125 Mt Lyford 56 Surf Highway 45 244-8 essential Rotorua 293 Karangahake Gorge 229 Mt Olympus 56 surfing 63 food 291, 303-5 Old Russell Road 149 Nelson Lakes National Auckland 92 highlights 292 Pacific Coast Highway Park 445 Bay of Plenty 329 history 293 333-8, 362, 363 Ohau 55, 54 Christchurch 490 information 306 Surf Highway 45 244-8 planning 53 Coromandel itineraries 298 Te Anga Rd 206-7 Porters 55 Peninsula 226 nightlife 305 scenic flights 421 Queenstown 580 Curio Bay 629 shopping 305-6 Aoraki/Mt Cook National Rainbow 56 Dunedin 554 sights 293-7 Park 534, 535 Remarkables, the 54 Far North 173 Tarawera Trail 310 Bay of Plenty 325 Roundhill 55 Gisborne 340-1 tours 300 Fox Glacier 475 Snow Farm New Great Barrier Island 124-5 travel seasons 291 Franz Josef Glacier 469 Zealand 55 Kaikoura 421 travel to/from 306 Glenorchy 594 Snowplanet 133 Mt Maunganui 317 travel within 306-7 Golden Bay 440 Temple Basin 55 New Plymouth 236 Rotorua Lakes 307-12, Haast 477 Tongariro National Oakura 245 308, 28 Karamea 453 Park 53-4 Opunake 246 Routeburn Track 592, 593, Mackenzie County Tukino 54, 284 Piha 130 7, 42 528, 530 Turoa 53-4, 284 Raglan 190, 194 Ruahine Ranges 365 Mt Maunganui 319 Whakapapa 53-4, 283-4 Whangarei 151 Ruapehu Region 264, 279- Mt Taranaki 242 skydiving 58-9 swimming 490 90, 265 Queenstown 581 Fox Glacier 475 Auckland 92 accommodation 264 Rotorua 300 Franz Josef Glacier Dunedin 554 climate 264 Taupo 273 469-71 Gisborne 340-1 essential Ruapehu Te Anau 616 Glenorchy 593-4 Mt Maunganui 318 Region 266 Tongariro National Methven 517 Napier 353 food 264 Park 284 Motueka 432 Palmerston North 259 highlights 265 Wanaka 602 Mt Maunganui 318 Rotorua 299 travel seasons 264 scenic train travel Queenstown 580 Taupo 271-2 Ruataniwha Conservation Bay of Islands Vintage Taupo 270 Wellington 375 Park 528, 54 Railway 166 Wanaka 601 700 T telephone services 679-80 Kahurangi National Park Te Anau 610-16 Tairua 225-6 tennis 96 443-4 Te Ara Tahuna Estuary Takaka 439-41 Thames 212-15, 214 Kaikoura 421 Cycle & Walkway 133 Karamea 454 Te Araroa 44, 50 Takaka Hill 439 Timaru 519-21, 520 tap water 676 time 22, 680 Kenepuru Sound 412 Te Paki Coastal Track 171 Te Urewera National Taranaki 72, 231-63, 232-3 tipping 25 Kepler Track 611-12, 613
INDEX INDEX park 347 accommodations 231 Tiritiri Matangi Island 123 Kerikeri River Track 163 Lake Waikaremoana Tongariro Alpine climate 231 Titirangi 128-9 Crossing 282 Track 347, 348, 362-3 essential Taranaki 236 toilets 680 Tongariro National Park
T-V Lewis Pass 509 food 231 Tongariro Alpine 281-3 Crossing 282 Mackenzie County 524, highlights 232-3 526, 527, 528 Tongariro River Trail 276 travel seasons 231 Tongariro National Park 11, Makarora 607 Tuatapere 623 Taumarunui 209-10 279-84, 280, 11, 20 Manapouri 621 Turangi 276 Taumatawhakatangihang- tourist information 680 Mangawhai Cliff Top Waiheke Island 119 akoauauotamateaturi- tours, see individual Walkway 142 Waitomo Caves 205 pukakapikimaungahoro- locations Wanaka 599-601 nukupokaiwhenuakitan- train travel 41, 689 maps 44 Marlborough Sounds West Coast Wilderness atahu 364-5 tramping 28-9, 42-51, 49, 408-9 Trail 459 Taupiri 185 , see also Great 94 Westport 451 Taupo 72, 264-90, 265, Walks Methven 516 Whakapapa Village 284 267, 268 Abel Tasman National Milford Hwy 617-18 Whanganui 250 accommodation 264, Park 435-7 Milford Track 612-13, 614 Whanganui National Park 273-4 Alexandra-Clyde 150th Mt Maunganui 317, 318 256-7 activities 270-2 Anniversary Walk Mt Somers 518 567, 569 Whangarei Heads 150 climate 264 Mt Taranaki 240-4, 45 Aoraki/Mt Cook National Whangaroa Harbour 167-8 drinking 275 Mt Te Aroha 199 Park 533 Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne essential Taupo 266 Auckland 91-2 Murchison 448 Conservation Park 311 events 273 Banks Peninsula 503 National Park Village 286 White Cliffs Walkway 240 festivals 273 Blackball 461 Nelson 425-6 trams 490-1 food 264, 274-5 books 44 Nelson Lakes National Transitional Cathedral highlights 265 Park 444-5 Buller Gorge 448 487, 523 history 266-8 New Plymouth 236 TranzAlpine Railway 21, Caples Track 592-3, 593 information 276 Ngā Tapuwae o Toi 458-9, 491, Christchurch 490 21 nightlife 275 (Footsteps of Toi) travel advice 679 Coastal Walkway 236 Walkway 325 shopping 275-6 travel to/from New Zealand Coast to Coast sights 268-70 Ohakune 287-8 683-4 Walkway 91-2 tours 272 Okarito 467 travel within New Zealand Cooks Cove Walkway 336 travel seasons 264 Opunake Walkway 246 40-1, 684-9 Coromandel Forest Otago Peninsula 562 Treaty of Waitangi 158- travel to/from 276 Park 218 Owaka 632 9, 646 travel within 276 Coromandel Peninsula Pelorus Sound 412 trout 278 Tauranga 312-17, 314 226 Picton 405 Tuatapere 622-3 taxes 678 Dunedin 555, 542-3 Pike29 Memorial Track tuatara 655 Te Anau 610-17, 611 Fox Glacier 473-5 26, 461 Tunnel Beach Walkway Te Araroa 50 Franz Josef Glacier 469 Punakaiki 456-7 555, 543 Te Aroha 199-200 Gisborne 341 Queen Charlotte Track Turangi 276-9, 277 Te Awamutu 195, 195-6 Glenorchy 590-3 409-10 Tutukaka Coast 151-4 Te Hana Te Ao Marama 136 Golden Bay 440 Queenstown 575-7 TV 667-8, 674 Te Henga 130-1 Great Barrier Island 125 Rangitoto Island 116 Twizel 529-31 Te Kooti 346 Greenstone Track 592- Redwoods Whakare- Te Kuiti 207 3, 593 warewa Forest 296 Te Mata Peak 358 Greymouth 459 Reefton 450 U Te Matatini National Kapa Gunn’s Camp 618 Rotorua 299, 310 University Clock Tower Haka Festival 32 Haast 477 Routeburn Track 592, 83, 95 Te Puia 295-6 Hanmer Springs 509-10 593, 7, 42 Urupukapuka Island 162 Te Urewera 346-8 Hokitika 463 Southern Scenic Te Waewae Bay 623-4 Route 621 Hollyford Track 615, 47 V Huatoki Walkway 236 Stewart Island (Rakiura) vacations 679 635-6 Humboldt Falls 618 vaccinations 676 Map Pages 000 Tangoio Walkway 349 internet resources 43-4 vegetarian & vegan Photo Pages 000 Jackson Bay 478 Taupo 270-1 travellers 65 701 vintage railway, see scenic walking tours highlights 447 wine tours train travel Auckland 89. 89 travel seasons 446 Auckland 93 visas 681-2 Wellington 379. 379 Westland 462-8 Blenheim 414 visual arts 668-9 Wanaka 74, 572-4, 599- Westland Tai Poutini Hastings 359 volcanoes 652-3 605, 573, 600, 47 National Park 468-76 Martinborough 396 Auckland Volcanic accommodation 572 Westport 450-3 Masterton 401
Field 98 INDEX climate 572 Whakaari (White Island) 328 Napier 354 Bay of Plenty 328 essential Wanaka 575 Whakapapa Village 284-5 Nelson 426-7 Mt Eden 85, 95 food 572 Whakarewarewa 295-6 Queenstown 581
Mt Ngauruhoe 281 highlights 573 Whakatane 323-9, 324 Waiheke Island 120 V-Z Mt Ruapehu 281 travel seasons 572 whales 655-7 Wellington 376 Mt Tongariro 281 Wanganui, see Whanganui whale watching women travellers 682 One Tree Hill 88, 90 Warkworth 135-6 Catlins, the 628 work 682 Whakaari (White waterfalls Kaikoura 419, 421 Island) 328 Aratiatia Rapids 269 Whangamata 226-8 volunteering 673, 682 Whanganui 72, 231, 248- Z Huka Falls 269 zip-lining 63, 232-3, 249 Marokopa Falls 206 Driving Creek Railway accommodations 231 W Purakaunui Falls 631 26, 215 climate 231 Waiheke Island 12, 117-22, Rere Falls 341 Queenstown 581 essential Whanganui 236 118, 12 Te Reinga Falls 345 Rotorua 298 food 231 Waihi 227-30 Waireinga 194 Taupo 270 highlights 232 Waihi Beach 227-30 Wairere Falls 198, 324 zoos & wildlife reserves, Waikanae 395 Whangarei Falls 145 history 253 see also bird parks travel seasons 231 Waikato 71, 181-230, weather 22, 675, 22 Aroha Island 163 182, 184 weights 674 Whanganui National Park Auckland Zoo 88 253-9, accommodation 181 Wellington 11, 73, 366-401, 254 Brooklands Zoo 235 climate 181 367, 370-1, 374-5, 10, Whangarei 142-52, 146-7 Goat Island Marine essential Waikato 183 382, 383 accommoda- Whangarei Heads 150 Reserve 138 food 181 tion 366 Whangaroa Harbour 167-8 Hamilton Zoo 185 highlights 182 activities 374-5 Whataroa 467 Motuara Island 408 history 183 children, travel with 384 Whenuakite 222-3 Nature’s Wonders Māori culture 183 climate 366 whitebait 466 Naturally 561-2 travel seasons 181 drinking 386-8 Whitianga 220-2, 221 Orana Wildlife Park 488 Waikato War 293 entertainment 388-9 wi-fi, 671 Orokonui Waimamaku 177 essential Wellington 369 wildlife reserves, see zoos Ecosanctuary 561 Waimangu Volcanic events 377-8 & wildlife reserves Paradise Valley Springs 297 Valley 307 festivals 377-8 wine 67-8, 397 Point Kean Seal Wai-O-Tapu Thermal food 366, 381-6 wine regions 27-8, 416, 415 Colony 419 Wonderland 307. 16 highlights 367 wineries 68 Poor Knights marine Waiotemarama 177 information 390 Bay of Plenty 322 reserve 151 Waiouru 290 itineraries 380 Coromandel Penin- Pukaha Mt Bruce National Waipara Valley 512-13 nightlife 386-8 sula 229 Wildlife Centre 400 Waipoua Forest 177-8 shopping 389-90 Gibbston Valley 582, 28 Rainbow Springs 297 Waipu 144-5 sights 368-73 Gisborne 343 Sugar Loaf Islands Wairakei 268-9, 270, 268 sleeping 378-81 Hawke’s Bay 357 Marine Park 234 Wairarapa, the 395-401 tours 375-7 Marlborough 416-17, Te Angiangi Marine Wairoa 348-9 travel seasons 366 415, 68 Reserve 364 Waitakere Ranges 129 travel to/from 390-1 North Auckland 135 Te Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve 220 Waitaki District 539-49 travel within 391-2 Otago 540, 570 Ulva Island 634 Waitaki Valley 540-1 walking tours 379, 379 Rotorua 297 Wellington Zoo 373 Waitangi 158-62. 2 West Auckland 128-32 Russell 156 West Coast Wildlife Waitomo Caves 19, 202-6. Tauranga 312, 313 West Coast 17, 73, 446-78, Centre 468-9 204. 19 , Waiheke Island 117 447 17 Willowbank Wildlife Waiwera 134 accommodation 446 Waipara Valley 513 Reserve 488 wakeboarding, see climate 446 Wairarapa, the 397 Zealandia 368 paddle-boarding food 446 West Auckland 131 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 702
Map Legend
Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Samantha Forge Christchurch & Canterbury, Dunedin & Otago Samantha became hooked on travel at the age of 17, when she arrived in London with an overstuffed backpack and a copy of LP’s Europe on a Shoestring. After a stint in Paris, she moved back to Aus- tralia to work as an editor in LP’s Melbourne office. Eventually, however, her wan- derlust got the better of her, and she now works as a freelance writer and editor.
Anita Isalska Fiordland & Southland, West Coast (South Island) Anita is a travel journalist, edi- tor and copywriter whose work for Lonely Planet has taken her from Greek beach towns to Malaysian jungles. After several merry years as an in-house editor and writer – with a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance between the UK, Australia and any Balkan guesthouse with a good wi-fi connection. Anita writes about travel, food and culture for a host of websites and magazines. Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.
Sofia Levin Taranaki & Whanganui, Taupo & the Ruapehu Region Sofia is a Melbourne-based journalist with an insatiable appetite for food and travel. A regular contributor to Lonely Planet, Fairfax newspapers and a range of magazines, she has been re- ferred to as “one of Melbourne’s most influential and creative social media per- sonalities” by Tourism Victoria. When she’s not travelling, Sofia runs Word Salad – a social media and copywriting business established in 2012 – and spreads smiles with her Insta-famous toy poodle, @lifeofjinkee. Follow her adventures at @sofiaklevin. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Charles Rawlings-Way Charles is a veteran travel, food and music writer who has penned 30-something titles for Lonely Planet – including guides to Singapore, Tonga, Toronto, Sydney, Tasmania, New Zealand, the South Pacific and Australia – and numerous arti- cles. After dabbling in the dark arts of architecture, cartography, project man- agement and busking for some years, Charles hit the road for LP in 2005 and hasn’t stopped travelling since.
Brett Atkinson Auckland, Waikato & the Coromandel Peninsula, East Coast (North Island), Marl- borough & Nelson Brett is based in Auckland but frequently on the road for Lonely Planet. He’s a full-time travel and food writer and is featured regularly on the Lone- ly Planet website, and in newspapers, magazines and websites across New Zealand and Australia. Craft beer and street food are Brett’s favourite reasons to explore places. Since becoming a Lonely Planet author in 2005, Brett has covered areas as diverse as Vietnam, Sri Lanka, the Czech Republic, Morocco, California and the South Pacific.
Andrew Bain Queenstown & Wanaka Andrew’s writing and photography feature in magazines and newspapers around the world, and his writing has won multiple awards, including best adventure story and best Australian story (three times) from the Australian Society of Travel Writers. He was formerly commissioning editor of Lonely Planet’s outdoor adventure series of titles, and is the author of Headwinds, the story of his 20,000-kilometre cycling journey around Australia, and Lonely Planet’s A Year of Adventures. His musings can be found at www.adventurebeforeavarice.com.
Peter Dragicevich Bay of Islands & Northland, Rotorua & the Bay of Plenty, Wellington Region After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wanderlust, giv- ing up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly dispa- rate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere.
OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 19th edition – Sep 2018 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 079 6 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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