A stone’s throw from the sea THE VALLEYS BETWEEN BORGIO AND The other Riviera Where, how and when enjoy a holiday in the greenery of ’s Riviera delle Palme

e natur gastronomy itineraries tastes hospitality the other riviera

The valleys between and Borghetto Santo Spirito

“From up there on the narrow terrace of a towering mountain, I will look down over the sea; my body will be salt, the white of a sail or the yellow of a broom flower”. Strolling along the cobbled streets of the villages in the valleys between Borgio Verezzi and Borghetto Santo Spirito, admiring the pale stone houses overlooking the sea, breathing in the perfumed broom flowers, walking through a carpet of beech leaves in the upper Valley, you’re reminded of the wonderful song by Joan Manuel Serrat and Gino Paoli, “Mediterraneo”. Down below white sails bob on the sea; up on the hills the air is tinged yellow with broom flowers and perfumed with ilex trees; the old walls are decorated with delicate blue Italian bellflowers (Campanula isophylla, the delight of many a botanist); the ridges are lined with centuries-old beech trees… then there are vineyards, sweeping panoramas, chestnut woods and wild mushrooms… All this is the other Riviera.

2 Bormida di Valley and Tànaro Valley

Maremola and Scarincio V Valley Rio Nimbalto Valley

alleys

Verezzi

Borghetto Pietra Borgio Santo Spirito Ligure

3 the other riviera

The Maremola and Scarincio Valleys The valleys of Mount Carmo Green in some areas, rocky in others, Mount Carmo casts its own unique spell that has made it one of the area’s most attractive hiking destinations – not least because of its 1389-metre drop straight to the sea. This majestic deity dominates the coast of Borgio, Pietra Ligure and Loano. The panorama from its summit extends from the French Riviera to Corsica, the Cinque Terre, the Apuan , Mount Rosa, the Lombardy plain and Mount Adamello. Countless torrents, including the Maremola and the Scarincio, flow through the woods and countryside down towards the sea.

4 Tovo Verezzi San Giacomo Ranzi

A stone’s throw from the sea

Verezzi 200 metres above sea level, 4 km from the A10 motorway exit (Pietra Ligure) 1 km from the sea (Borgio) 50 metres above sea level 6 km from the A10 motorway exit (Pietra Ligure) 4 km from the sea (Pietra Ligure) Magliolo 270 metres above sea level, 8 km from the A10 motorway exit (Pietra Ligure), 9 km from the sea (Pietra Ligure) Giustenice 160 metres above sea level, 8 km from the A10 motorway exit (Pietra VEREZZI Ligure) 4 km from the sea (Pietra Ligure) A village loved by poets Ranzi 180 metres above sea level, 1 km from the A10 “Verezzi is best walked not from the street but from motorway exit (Pietra the rooftops, which are not rooftops at all but small Ligure) 2 km from the terraces, baked and bent by the sun. An uneven expanse, with sea (Pietra Ligure) slight rises and falls, that takes you from one dwelling to the next... The main door, the first flight of a broken staircase, reveal that some of them are elegant old homes. On the ground floor, now... the donkey kicks its legs, on the first floor, pride of place is held by… an oil mill made of solid oak, witness to an era when olives were pressed by hand… Everything in Verezzi is made of Finale stone: a hard, rosy stone… the thresholds and the architraves, the niche with the statue of Our Lady, the millstones are made of Finale stone...... in Verezzi every house has its own pergola; rising from the paving at almost every threshold, a vine trained for generations, father to son, to climb the façade fans out at the top to shade the highest balcony…”. (From “Postilla a Verezzi” by Camillo Sbarbaro, published by kind permission of Lina Sbarbaro). 5 the other riviera Verezzi

…cuisine takes centre stage Here are the addresses for dining in Verezzi. The first place you encounter as you climb up from the crowded coast is the Ristorante Il Mulino (restaurant and brasserie). Piazza’s Antica Osteria Saracena del Bergallo (inn) serves Ligurian dishes – but prepared -style. Piazza also has other restaurants worth trying, like the Ristorante A Töpia, named after the area’s typical vine-covered pergolas, and the Ristorante Il Cappero (named after the delicious local capers). Close to the square where the performances are staged, the B&B Archivolto and the Agriturismo Cà du Gregorio (guest farm) offer excellent overnight accommodation. The Ristorante da Sem is located on the walk from The Borgio Crosa uphill to the charming Verezzi church of San Martino: it is an authentic country trattoria Theatre surrounded by holm oaks, Festival where you can enjoy the Verezzi’s best-known event sound of crickets and a is its theatre festival, held breathtaking view as you every summer in the dine. A short distance away, enchanting square of the further uphill in the hamlet of Piazza. woods, there is an International theatre old mill, referred companies perform to as “fenicio”, amidst the town’s after the ancient low stone technique buildings, with the used to make church of Sant’Agostino the internal as a backdrop, whilst the blades. The mill is summer sunset colours the now the emblem of sky. Nearby, before and after the national “Veretium” 6 the performance… Theatre Prize. The Maremola and Scarincio Valleys

Verezzi Where, how and when www.inforiviera.it/blu/borgio.cfm Agriturismo Cà du Gregorio via Ortari 12, tel. and fax 019 611 952 Antica Osteria Saracena del Bergallo via Roma 17, Piazza, tel. 019 610 487 B&B Archivolto via Roccaro 6, tel. 019 611 820 www.archivolto.net, [email protected] Ristorante A Töpia via Roma 16, Piazza, tel. 019 616 905 Ristorante da Sem near the church of San Martino, tel. 019 615 151 Ristorante Il Cappero via Roma 23, Piazza, tel. 019 610 958 www.ilcappero.com, [email protected] Ristorante Il Mulino via Cava Vecchia 2, tel. 019 613 434 7 the other riviera Tovo San Giacomo

TOVO SAN GIACOMO The clock town

The 2300 residents of Tovo San Giacomo live in various hamlets in the middle of the small but lush Maremola Valley. The valley is in the hilly inland area of Pietra Ligure, just a few kilometres from the coast and the wooded Melogno Hill that leads to the Bormida Valley. As indicated by its very name – “vecchio” means old – Bardino Vecchio is an ancient town that may date as far back as the time of Charlemagne. The church of San Giovanni boasts a Gothic bell tower with several bacini, ceramic plates produced by the Arabs, embedded in its walls. However, the highlight of Tovo San Giacomo is in Bardino Nuovo: the Tower Clock Museum was the first one of its kind opened in . The monumental clockwork parts exhibited at the museum document over a century of work by the Bergallo family, nationally renowned artists and craftsmen who made clocks from 1860 to 1980. Their clocks mark time on the towers of several major Italian cities such as , , Bologna and Taranto.

8 Maremola and Scarincio valleys

Buon appetito and… good night

The local vineyards yield excellent Pigato, Vermentino and Barbarossa, which are ideal with traditional dishes like snails and savoury pies, particularly the local pumpkin pie. And so it’s buon appetito and good night at the Albergo Ristorante Franzone (hotel and restaurant), centrally located next to the town hall and the enormous eighteenth-century parish church of San Giacomo Apostolo. Accommodation is also available at the Agriturismo Il Poggio (guest farm), a fifteenth-century building dubbed “the general’s house”, where guests can purchase vegetables, barnyard animals, oil, jam and wine, and the Affittacamere Casa Nobile (rooming house). On the right-hand side of the valley the B&B Claro de Luna offers its guests use of the library, Internet access, a gym with a sauna, and rooms that are elegantly decorated “Missoni” style. Other spots worth visiting are the Taverna Cà di Giurni (inn), which offers Ligurian cuisine as well as pizza, and the lavish and elegant Rélais Il Casale, an exquisite late nineteenth- century country house in Bardino Vecchio. The Hotel Ristorante Bergallo is also in Bardino Vecchio, whereas Casa Vacanze Bosio (which also has a restaurant), the Pizzeria Il Caminetto, the B&B La Luna e Sei Soldi, and the B&B La corte dei Miracoli are in Bardino Nuovo. Gourmets can find delicious honey as well as goat cheese and cow’s milk cheese at the Azienda Agricola Il Vecchio Castagno (farm), between Bardino Vecchio and the main road of Melogno. 9 the other riviera Tovo San Giacomo

Tovo San Giacomo Where, how and when Town Hall tel. 019 637 901 B&B La Luna e sei soldi www.inforiviera.it/blu/tovo.cfm via Bosi 3, Bardino Nuovo Affittacamere Casa Nobile tel. 019 639 225, 340 928 1094 via Roma 59, tel. 333 694 0547 www.lunaeseisoldi.it Agriturismo Il Poggio Casa vacanze Bosio (with restaurant) via Poggio 129, tel. 019 637 134 via San Sebastiano 98, Bardino Nuovo [email protected] tel. 019 637 227, www.casavacanzebosio.com Albergo Ristorante Franzone Hotel Ristorante Bergallo piazza Umberto I 11 piazza San Carlo 10, Bardino Vecchio tel. 019 637 133 tel. 019 637 226, www.bergallo.net Azienda Agricola “G. B. Bergallo” Tower Clock Museum Il Vecchio Castagno piazza San Sebastiano 10, Bardino Nuovo di Carmela Ricciardello call Town Hall via Portio 185, tel. 019 648 394 Pizzeria il Caminetto B&B Claro de Luna via San Sebastiano 162, Bardino Nuovo via Rocca 34 tel. 019 648 152 tel./fax 019 648 409, 347 694 6294 Relais Il Casale www.clarodeluna.liguria.it via Briffi 22, Bardino Vecchio B&B La corte dei Miracoli tel. 019 637 5014, www.ilcasale.it via Bosi Inferiore 26, Bardino Nuovo Taverna Cà di Giurni tel. 019 648 207, 328 585 9908 via G.B. Accame 20, tel. 019 637 158

10 Magliolo The Maremola and Scarincio Valleys

MAGLIOLO

The old Via The modern della Ferriera Via Ferrata Magliolo, which has a population Today the ironworks are gone, and of 800, is the other municipality instead there is an “iron way”, a in the Maremola Valley. It has a 1200-metre Via Ferrata that hikers history as an early industrial centre: and mountain climbers can take the road along the valley floor was from Cà dell’Erscia to Bric known as Via della Ferriera – the dell’Agnellino, along the Balzi Rossi road to the ironworks – because coast. Along the way adventurous ferrous minerals from Elba were hikers cross a Tibetan bridge processed in Isallo, one of the stretched over a deep canyon. This hamlets further uphill. The minerals is an Alpine environment just a stone’s throw from the were transported by mules from sea. Those who are afraid of heights can “settle” for a Pietra Ligure. The ironworks were walk along the Terre Alte Trail, which starts in in operation from 1730 until the and intersects with the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri. The mid-nineteenth century. 1028-metre trail leads to Melogno Hill, along a wooded The lovely eighteenth-century ridge with a marvellous view of the sea. As is the case sanctuary of Santi Cosma e with most mountain passes in the Savona Apennines, Damiano is located along the several nineteenth-century military posts stand guard road leading to Melogno Hill, and along the route. a popular country festival is held In the central fort, there is an enormous holly tree that here in September. is around 200 years old. 11 the other riviera Magliolo

Riding in the forest

The steady noise of hooves as they clip-clop along the trail up to Melogno Hill doesn’t frighten the two blackbirds intently pecking at earthworms in the dark soil under the beech tree. The air is still damp. The sun climbs the summer sky, but it has not yet erased the last of the night mist, under a vault of branches and leaves that cover the head of the Maremola Valley and the Alpine slopes of Mount Carmo. The two riders are silent. Their hands resting on the horns of their saddles, they hold the reins loosely, allowing the horses to set the pace and decide which way to go. No matter: the horses know the trail far better than their riders. The high ground, now lit by the sun, gives off the light scent of grass and warm rock, which blends perfectly with the animal smell of the horses – that smell of living nature that will remain in the riders’ clothes and beards until the following day, and the day after that. It is a smell that no shower or city soap can wash away. The noise of the coast is far away and forgotten: it is astonishing to think that it takes less than half an hour by car to leave the din of the crowded beaches and promenades behind and reach this hushed forest. This is a place Hospitable where you can easily imagine encountering Magliolo a seventeenth-century bandit armed with a harquebus, or an imperial messenger on his The vineyards of way to the castle of Marquis Aleramo. Magliolo produce excellent Barbarossa and Lumassina, and Magliolo delicious snails are Where, how and when cooked in this area. Magliolo boasts several Town Hall tel. 019 634 004, 019 634 274 hotels and restaurants: the Albergo Ristorante www.inforiviera.it/blu/magliolo.cfm Picina (hotel and restaurant), the Pizzeria Albergo Ristorante Picina la Genovese with barbecued specialities, and via Mazzini 17, tel. 019 634 146 the Trattoria Il Ghiottone along the main Pizzeria la Genovese road of Melogno. Near Melogno Hill and the via Mazzini 25, tel. 019 634 282 Alta Via dei Monti Liguri, there is also the Rifugio Alpino Heidi (mountain refuge), Rifugio Alpino Heidi where horses and cattle are raised. via Melogno 21, tel. 019 64 193 For information on small local oil and honey Trattoria Il Ghiottone via Canova 22, tel. 019 634 102 12 producers, contact the Town Hall. Giustenice The Maremola and Scarincio Valleys

GIUSTENICE In the name of the law… Jus Tenens was a village of the Ligurian Ingauni tribe. Destroyed and then rebuilt by the Romans as a mansio on the Via Julia Augusta, it developed under the Longobards. Today its 870 residents are divided between the hamlets of San Lorenzo and San Michele. The court was located in San Lorenzo: once a month, the podestà of Pietra would sit on a stone seat and hand down his sentences. The seat is still there, but based on its appearance, the judge can’t have been very comfortable! This is a land of olive groves and vineyards, and the town hall Monumental displays two ancient stone measures, dating from trees 1606, that were used for oil and wine. In San Michele the castle that belonged to the bishops Piazza Don , near the church of Albenga and the Marquises Del Carretto must of San Michele, is dominated have been very impressive, judging from the ruins by a cypress tree and a holm on top of the cliff. The Romanesque church of oak that are 300 and 200 years San Michele is also fascinating. Built in the Middle old respectively. It is an Ages (the Longobards were very devoted to St excellent starting point for Michael), it was enlarged during the sixteenth hiking up to the woods of century; there are fifteenth-century frescoes Mount Carmo. inside the church. Cà Comuna, or the old Town Hall, is in the same square and is well worth a visit.

13 the other riviera Giustenice

A recipe from Capalla a Giustenice: homemade chocolate cake

Ingredients: 100g butter, 200g sugar, 4 eggs, 200g dark chocolate, 2 tablespoons floor, vanilla essence. Melt the butter and chocolate in a saucepan. Beat the egg yolks with the sugar, vanilla and flour. When the mixture is smooth and well blended, add the butter and chocolate. Stir the batter until smooth. Pour into a buttered cake tin and bake very hot oven 20 minutes.

Stuffed lettuce: a traditional dish Back to the from the Ligurian countryside Middle Ages This dish is traditionally served at Easter, and At the end of July, the there are two versions: a vegetarian one and a Palio dei Carri is held meat-based one. The former is also known as in the church square fratti, perhaps because it was invented by monks of Giustenice to (frati in Italian) during the Middle Ages and thus commemorate the battle of 1448 between has no meat. The latter originated among the the Del Carretto family and the Republic upper middle classes and calls for plenty of lettuce of , which won after a long siege. leaves and high-quality ingredients for the filling. Today this event is remembered with a Considered a great delicacy, meat-filled lettuce banquet of mediaeval dishes, and with was served on noble tables as far back as the shows, duels and music as entertainment. eighteenth century. The lettuce leaves are used At other times of the year visitors can as a vegetable “wrapping” for an elaborate filling dine at the Ristorante Capalla, or that can also contain meat. The lettuce “rolls” purchase typical valley products at the are stewed, and are generally served with peas. shop Il Mercatino. Giustènice Where, how and when

Town Hall tel. 019 648 156 www.inforiviera.it/blu/giustenice.cfm Il Mercatino (local food specialities) Piazza Vittorio Veneto 2 tel. 019 637 153 Ristorante Capalla via Besso 4, tel. 019 637 152 14 Ranzi The Maremola and Scarincio Valleys

RANZI

A village overlooking the sea A peaceful hillside hamlet in the Pietra Ligure district, Ranzi is a village with a Mediterranean air – sunny and bedecked with flowers – and a stunning view of the sea and the coast. Visitors receive a warm welcome at the Albergo Cà Ligure (hotel) and can enjoy fine food at the Trattoria Pizzeria da Piero, in the church square, and at the elegant and scenic Ristorante il Capanno in the upper part of town. Just up the hill there is a stone casella, the ancient nuraga-shaped shelter used by shepherds. From here there are several trails that cut through the dense Mediterranean maquis covering the slopes of Mount Carmo. A recipe from Capanno di Ranzi: Ranzi lemon pudding Where, how and when

Ingredients: 2 large ripe Ligurian lemons (unwaxed), Albergo Cà Ligure 200g sugar, 50g butter, 8 eggs, breadcrumbs. via Concezione 10 Method: wash the lemons thoroughly and boil them tel. and fax 019 625 181 in a little water. Set them aside. When they are cool, slice and then crush in a mortar with the sugar. Ristorante il Capanno Separate the eggs. Add the yolks to the lemons and via Cappelletta 63 blend thoroughly. Grease a pudding mould and tel. 019 625 198 sprinkle it with breadcrumbs. Beat the egg whites until stiff and fold them into the lemon mixture. Trattoria Pizzeria da Piero Pour the mixture into the pudding mould and bake piazza della Chiesa 1 in a slow oven for about 30 minutes. tel. 019 625 184 15 the other riviera

The Varatella and Rio Nimbalto Valleys

Caves, hermitages and…

This Alpine landscape, which resembles the Dolomites in many respects, is as popular with the people of the twenty-first century as it was with our prehistoric ancestors of the Palaeolithic. It is easy to understand why: just look at the view of the mountains, the sea and the slopes dotted with olive groves… These valleys rising from Borghetto Santo Spirito and Loano may be small, but they are indubitably among the most stunning in Liguria.

VERZI

Rural Liguria The fact that the people of Liguria are “country folk” at heart is clear the moment you head towards Verzi, one of the hamlets of Loano near the verdant The Alta Via dei Monti Liguri lower slopes of Mount Carmo. The sea and Mount Carmo is just around the bend and yet, out of sight, it is also out of mind. This is a The star of Ligurian hiking is the Alta Via dei land of farmhouses, small cultivated Monti Liguri, a superbly marked hiking trial with fields and quiet country villages. For 44 stages, spanning the watershed from Ventimiglia country fare, there is the Pizzeria near the French border to Ceparana, close to La l’Agricola, in the centre; hikers can head Spezia. The trail runs through a spectacular to the Rifugio Pian delle Bosse, a sequence of forests, rocky summits and meadows mountain refuge with restaurant (altitude – with almost no traces of civilisation. You’ll 840 m) at the crossroads of various trails come across nineteenth-century military outposts, leading up to Mount stone caselle that look like small nuraghi and Carmo. were used by shepherds as shelters during bad weather, a handful of refuges where you can take shelter or even spend the night, crucifixes on the tallest peaks, chapels and little churches, and small hotels near the mountain passes, which are 16 crisscrossed by roads rising from the Loano Verzi Toirano

A stone’s throw from the sea

Verzi 180 metres above sea level 8 km from the A10 motorway exit (Pietra Ligure) 4 km from the sea (Loano) Boissano 120 metres above sea level 3 km from the A10 motorway exit (Borghetto Santo Spirito) 3 km from the sea (Loano) Toirano 40 metres above sea level 1 km from the A10 motorway exit (Borghetto Santo Spirito) 3 km from the sea (Borghetto Santo Spirito) Balestrino 370 metres above sea level 5 km from the A10 motorway exit (Borghetto Santo Spirito) 7 km from the sea (Borghetto Santo Spirito)

coast and descending to the plains. On sunny days when the north wind is blowing (more frequent in winter and spring), the panorama seems endless, sweeping from the Maritime Alps to Mount Monviso, Mount Rosa, Mount Adamello, Genoa, the Apuan Alps, Elba, Corsica and the French Riviera. But when the wind gusts in from the sea, the ridge disappears in a fog worthy of the valley. A tangle of secondary trails connects the Alta Via to the coast and the Verzi valley floor. One of the most intriguing is the Terre Where, how and when Alte Trail, which crosses the Pietra and Loano valleys. At an altitude of 1389 metres, Mount Carmo is one Pizzeria l’Agricola of the main summits along the Alta Via – and via Verzi 30, tel. 019 670 633 indubitably the most scenic. As you gaze down from the top of this mountain, you can easily perceive Rifugio Pian delle Bosse the true essence of Liguria. It is first and foremost (with restaurant) a land of mountains rather than a maritime region, tel. 019 671 790 a land of forests and boulders whose skies are crossed custodian: tel. 019 511 154 by wind-borne eagles. 347 780 6308 17 the other riviera Boissano

BOISSANO

Buizan, prufümmu An ancient monastery de zærmi dedicated to St Peter Translated from the local It is well worth hiking up the trail towards dialect, this means Mount Ravinet to see San Pietro dei “Boissano, the scent of Monti (altitude 900 m), whose present olive trees in bloom”. In state does not convey the importance fact olive trees of this monastery for a period of 600 characterise the years during the Middle Ages. What is landscape of the striking is its silent ambience: scenic low hill by the sea on sunny days, melancholy when the where Boissano was Scirocco wind blows and the coastline below built. Nearly 2000 people live in is swallowed up by fog. Today there is a solitary, the ancient and modern hamlets picturesque church in the woods, and it is the on the slopes of Mount Ravinet offshoot of the monastery of San Pietro in Varatella, (1061 m), with stone houses that founded in the ninth century under Charlemagne. have terraced roofs to collect As legend would have it, St Peter stopped here rainwater, and several lovely during his rather roundabout journey to Rome and buildings (including the town built Liguria’s first church. The monastery held hall) with decorated façades enormous economic and political power in about painted in lively colours. The the year 1000. The monks from San Pietro civilised square, where the town hall and the region and owned property between Albenga parish church are located, also and the Langhe area. They also helped improve the has a beautiful well. region’s living conditions by promoting agricultural The town is surrounded by and industrial development, introducing olive trees Mediterranean maquis, which and vines and building flour and oil mills. The thrives alongside vegetable monastery was abandoned in 1495 and fell into patches, orchards and vineyards. ruin. All that remains today is a little church that, And on the horizon, the sapphire every year on 1st May, is visited by a procession of sea of Loano. the faithful from Toirano.

18 The Varatella and Rio Nimbalto Valleys

Hospitable Boissano Boissano Where, how and when

Boissano offers accommodation Town Hall tel. 0182 98 010 at Villa Graziella (guest house www.inforiviera.it/blu/boissano.cfm and apartments), an inviting B&B di Daniela Cremonini little building from the 1960s via Gandolfi 26 located on the road up from tel. 0182 98 517, 340 259 9960 Loano, and at Daniela Casa e appartamenti Cremonini’s B&B in an old per vacanze Villa Graziella stone house in the upper part (holiday home and apartments) of town. via Rive 41, tel. 0182 989 511 Hungry visitors can head to the modern Ristorante Pizzeria Le Ristorante Pizzeria le Querce Querce, on the road to Loano, via Rive 3, tel. 0182 989 229 or to the Trattoria Pizzeria Lo Trattoria Pizzeria lo Schicchero Schicchero, at the edge of the via Cappella Nuova 11 town centre. tel. 0182 98 511 19 the other riviera

20 Toirano The Varatella and Rio Nimbalto Valleys

TOIRANO

A town with 12,000 years of history Toirano is one of the oldest towns in Italy. Its population of 2000 boasts a history dating back at least 12,000 years. How many caves are there in the Varatella Valley? As many as fifty, and some of them are where the prehistoric Ligurians lived, prayed and socialised – as early as the last Ice Age.

Caves of witches and saints

The Toirano caves are among the most important in Italy, and they are famous around the world. They were used as dwellings by Palaeolithic peoples, and for shelter by cave bears. Today visitors can take a 1300-metre tour through the caves. The Grotta della Bàsura (also known as the Witches’ Grotto) is home to the bear cemetery, with Ursus spaeleus (cave bear) bones. Nearby there is a corridor with footprints left by bears and the men who hunted them, and the hall of mysteries, where our ancestors hurled clay balls against the cave walls, for some social or religious reason that has yet to be understood. The itinerary then goes to the lower grotto of Santa Lucia, with its remarkable stalactites and stalagmites, and the upper one, with a fifteenth-century sanctuary that was carved into the rock face by a miraculous spring. St Lucy is the patron saint of those with eye trouble. 21 the other riviera Toirano

Narrow streets and museums The Toirano Pass And then we came out to see the stars There is more to Toirano than narrow again… After visiting the caves, why mediaeval streets and prehistoric not wander through the mediaeval town caves. The municipality of Toirano of Toirano. The Byzantines fortified the rises – or rather, climbs – up the town during the sixth century, and what Varatella Valley to remains of the walls are two gates, the (the Toirano Pass, altitude 807 m), tower houses, the moat and the which links the area to the Bormida battlemented tower that is now the bell Valley, on the Po side of the Riviera tower of the church of San Martino. The delle Palme. Steep, winding and mediaeval three-arched bridge over the full of hairpin bends, this 15- Varatella is virtually intact. The town kilometre road is breathtaking with also has brightly coloured twentieth- vistas of the barren, rocky valley century murals, as well as the Val and of the , from Loano Varatella Ethnographic Museum, housed to Corsica. It is well worth the trip to enjoy in the ancient stables of the Palazzo Del the scenery, visit the mountain town of Carretto. At the museum, you’ll find Carpe halfway up the road, and then hike everything you want to know about to the summit of Mount Carmo or go Toirano – and, naturally, any questions mushroom picking in the woods on the ridge 22 are welcome. overlooking the Bormida Valley. The Varatella and Rio Nimbalto Valleys

The Wine and Oil Road

The road less travelled… through a landscape of green olive trees and yellow clusters of ripe grapes. This is the Strada del Vino e dell’Olio (Wine and Oil Road) that sets out from the olive groves of the , crossing the Riviera delle Palme and the valleys of Loano and Pietra, to wind its way through the area’s most picturesque hill towns, with stone oil mills and row after row of grapevines. Taggiasca and, above all, Pignola are the olive varieties used to make “Riviera Ligure del Ponente Savonese” PDO extra-virgin olive oil, which has a slightly bitter flavour with an aftertaste reminiscent of pine nuts. Pigato and Vermentino are the kings of the local vineyards: Pigato owes its name to the word pigau, which means “stained” in the local dialect. Pigato is a white wine that is perfect throughout the meal, with a distinctive musky bouquet, straw-yellow colour, and a dry, slightly bitter palate. Vermentino is a dry white with a delicate bouquet. It is ideal as an aperitif, but it can also be served with Ligurian seafood appetisers, as well as frittata and vegetable dishes with cheese. Both wines should be served chilled but not icy cold.

23 the other riviera Toirano

The “Gumbi” Festival

In the nineteenth century Toirano had 25 oil mills, known locally as gumbi. There were industrial water-powered gumbi, and smaller domestic gumbetti driven by donkeys. The “Gumbi” Festival, held at the beginning of August, is the most popular event in Toirano. Visitors can stroll through the village and taste oil, wine and farinata, and purchase locally made items at the crafts show. Typical Toirano products include focaccia di San Pietro, a variety of the Genoese pandolce cake, soft torrone nougat, and orange wine, which is wine fermented with orange peel.

Toirano specialities

To buy Toirano food specialities, look for A Butega di Carruggi in the old town centre, or Le Delizie del Frantoio di Sandra Rosciano, along the main road heading down to Borghetto Santo Spirito. The Azienda Agricola Monte Acuto (farm), on the hillside near the Frantoio Rosciano oil mill, sells rabbits and has trout-fishing facilities. The Frantoio Polla oil mill is located in the old town centre.

24 The Varatella and Rio Nimbalto Valleys

Trekking through the mountains: the Terre Alte Trail The Terre Alte Trial leads trekking aficionados from Toirano up to Melogno Hill (altitude 1028 m), through the mountain refuge of Pian delle Bosse (altitude 841 m) in the Upper Nimbalto Valley, and passing by the Maremola Valley. At Melogno Hill, the trail merges with the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri – the “motorway” of the Ligurian mountains – and the main road connecting Finale with the Upper Bormida Valley, crossing the marvellous beech forest of . It is divided into three stages: Toirano-Balestrino- Toirano, which takes about 3 1/2 hours; Toirano-Pian delle Bosse, about 4 1/2 hours; and Pian delle Bosse-Melogno, about 6 hours. After your trek, if you still have plenty of energy left and have fallen in love with the mountain scenery, you can continue along the Alta Via to Melogno Hill, a three- hour hike through the quiet woods along the ridge of the Upper Bormida Valley.

Hospitable Toirano If you plan to spend the night in Toirano, accommodation is available at the Albergo Ristorante La Strega (hotel and restaurant), which also serves home-style food, and at the Albergo Ristorante Varatella (hotel and restaurant), uphill from the old town centre. The Ristorante A Xatta, which also has rooms to let, is located downhill from the town centre and serves trofie pasta, snails and bagna caoda. Excellent food is also served at the Ristorante Il Ravanello Incoronato, the Spaghetteria Pizzeria Il Portico (in the caruggi, or narrow streets), and the Pizzeria Toulà, which is located in a lovely stone building with a garden, downhill from the old town centre. But you can also try the Bruschetteria Birreria Tecoteca (also a “tea-tasting” spot!) and La Piazza, or dig into the dishes prepared by the Bar Enoteca dei Capitani. Last but not least, the Ristorante Al Giovo is way up near the clouds, in the woods of the Toirano Pass by the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri. 25 the other riviera Toirano

Climbing near Bàsure and Fene In the Varatella Valley, not far from the town of Toirano, there are numerous Dolomia rock towers, characterised by impressive karst formations. The erosion of limestone has created natural caverns, modelling the stone and creating evident and intriguing cliffs. This is a rough, wild and tormented area, but it is ideal for rock climbing. Since the rocks are located at an altitude of just 150 to 460 metres above sea level, climbing is also possible in winter. The Municipality of Toirano has set up a project that includes ten cliffs and 225 different climbing routes, for a range of different levels of difficulty, from the rock gym to very demanding climbing facilities. This is a fascinating way to enjoy Alpine sports just a few kilometres from the sea: the perfect way to combine a seaside holiday with the opportunity to experience the “Ligurian Dolomites”. Toirano Where, how and when

Town Hall tel. 0182 92 101 Le delizie del frantoio www.inforiviera.it/blu/toirano.cfm di Sandra Rosciano (local food specialities) A Butega di Carruggi (local food specialities) via Provinciale 1, tel. 0182 98 204 via Mainero 35, tel. 0182 98 120 Val Varatella Albergo Ristorante La Strega Ethnographic Museum via Parodi 1, tel. 0182 98 074 via Polla, tel. 0182 989 968, Albergo Ristorante Varatella www.toirano.it/lacitta/musei.php via Provinciale 32, tel. 0182 98 078 Pizzeria Toulà Azienda Agricola Monte Acuto via Maniero 47, tel. 0182 989 283 regione Leade, tel. 0182 989 097 Ristorante al Giovo Bar dei Capitani (wine bar) via per , tel. 0182 941 789 piazza San Martino 13 Ristorante A Xatta Bruschetteria Birreria Tecoteca La Piazza via Mainero 33, tel. 019 98 192 piazza della Libertà 16 Ristorante il Ravanello Incoronato Frantoio Polla Nicolò via G.B.Parodi 27, tel. 0182 921 991 Via alle Mura 1, tel. 019 668 027 Spaghetteria Pizzeria il Portico Caves of Bàsura and Santa Lucia Inferiore piazza della Libertà 10 guided tours year-round; info 0182 98 062 tel. 0182 989 769 Balestrino The Varatella and Rio Nimbalto Valleys

BALESTRINO

The Marquis’ castle

The tangle of administrative structures that governed the cities and towns of Liguria, both within and outside the boundaries of the , also included the independent marquisate of Balestrino. It was a “concentric state”, that is, a completely autonomous entity surrounded by the Genoese republic. The Bava family, followed by the Del Carrettos, ruled this small feudal state until 1796, when Napoleon’s soldiers wiped it off the map after pillaging the town and oppressing the population. Nevertheless the small but long-lived marquisate of Balestrino left a legacy to the modern-day town of 500: the majestic castle-fortress that dominates the village and valley. According to local legend, wrongdoers who managed to cling to the bars on its windows were acquitted of their crimes. Who knows? Maybe this is the origin of the term “everybody out”!

Romantic ruins, crafty cats

It looks like a Romantic painting of ancient Roman ruins set in a clearing, with young shepherds playing the flute. We’re talking about the ancient Burgus Plebis of Balestrino, built at the foot of the castle. It was abandoned because of its unstable terrain, and is not open to visitors due to the risk of collapse. Silent and bucolic, it has a disquieting air to it, even when viewed from above without setting foot into it. Like true Roman ruins, it is full of cats that appear and then disappear, ghosts or patron saints of the town and its history. Balestrino the other riviera

Trails and sanctuaries The cuisine of Balestrino

Balestrino is part of the Environmental Area of Inquisitive gourmets will find plenty to Poggio Grande, which encompasses the satisfy their curiosity in Balestrino. Why municipalities, territories and trails of the Varatella not start with ravioli con il faraballa, soft- and Valleys. These hills are covered with wheat flour pasta with and a vegetable scenic trails that are perfect for trekking and filling, served with rabbit sauce. For a rustic mountain biking. The Terre Alte Trail goes through and hearty one-course meal, try zemin, a the historical and archaeological sites in the soup of dried chickpeas and beans which valley, and there are also numerous spots for is simmered for hours, and served with the paragliding. The modern sanctuary of Monte Croce fat from pork rind and brine-packed pig’s is located in an extraordinarily scenic setting, feet. Turtelin is made of cabbage, rice, on top of a 760-metre hill. On 5 October 1949, dried sheep’s milk cheese and oil. Lastly Our Lady appeared here to nine-year-old Caterina there’s panizza, a savoury cake made of Richero. The sanctuary can be reached on foot chickpea flour that is cut into squares or by car, via a dirt road that branches off from and dressed with oil, vinegar and pepper. the main road to Castelvecchio di . And last but certainly not least, olive oil! The nineteenth-century fort of Poggio Grande, Balestrino oil is a unique and exquisite located nearby, also affords a lovely view. blend made from different olive varieties. The Varatella and Rio Nimbalto Valleys

A stop in Balestrino There are several places to stop in Balestrino: the famous Ristorante La Greppia, the Albergo Ristorante Pastorino (hotel and restaurant) in the centre of the “Borgo”, and the Albergo Ristorante Cecchin (hotel and restaurant), which also has a lovely view of the ruins of the old town. The Ristorante Residence Ca’ de Berna (hotel and restaurant), which has a swimming pool surrounded by trees, is located in the woods towards Vecersio. The Frantoio Lotus oil mill, on the way into town from Loano, sells oil and organic products.

A recipe from Balestrino: mutton stew

This hearty traditional dish is a favourite at the festivals held in the squares of Balestrino. To make it, cut the mutton into chunks and place it in a large pot full of boiling water. Boil the meat until all the water is absorbed and the meat has released all its fat. Mince some onion, garlic and parsley and brown them in local olive oil. Add the browned onion mixture to the meat, fill the pot with water and white wine in equal proportions. Boil uncovered for 90 minutes, adding rosemary, sage and a few bay leaves. When the meat is almost done, add chopped potatoes and a handful of olives. Buon appetito!

Balestrino Where, how and when

Town Hall tel. 0182 988 004 Frantoio Lotus www.inforiviera.it/blu/balestrino.cfm (oil and organic products) Albergo Ristorante Pastorino via Panizzi 10, tel. 0182 988 078 via Mazzini 4 and via Lucifredi 6 Ristorante e Residence Ca' de Berna tel. 0182 988 109, 0182 988 166 via Provinciale 59, tel. 0182 991 985, Albergo Ristorante Cecchin 0182 988 070, www.cadeberna.com via Provinciale 1 Ristorante La Greppia tel. 0182 988 001 via Lucifredi 9, tel. 0182 988 020 the other riviera

The Bormida di Millesimo and Tànaro Valleys

A taste of Piedmont in Liguria North of the Po watershed in the Bormida Valley, Liguria takes on a Piedmontese air. This is due not only to its geographical features, with rivers that flow towards the faraway Po, but to the very history of this area, which recounts the adventures of the Marquises of Monferrato and the Dukes of Savoy. The Piedmontese culture has left its mark on the dialects and architecture of these hill towns. The forests in this area yield exquisite porcini mushrooms that are the main attraction at local festivals. The Upper Bormida di Millesimo Valley, between Bardineto and , is the most Alpine part of the Riviera delle Palme.

BARDINETO The plateau of porcini mushrooms Bardineto, with a population of over 600 people, is the highest municipality in the Bormida di Millesimo Valley. It is in the middle of a plateau of 25 square kilometres, at an altitude of 700 metres. Caves and springs The area was inhabited during prehistoric times, and the town itself was founded The Bardineto plateau boasts countless by Enrico Del Carretto in the early caves and mineral springs. Buranco di thirteenth century. The monks of San Bardineto has two kilometres of underground Pietro in Varatella established numerous passages and tunnels, and it is the largest ironworks here. But Bardineto is most of the eighty caves explored in the area. famous for its mushrooms, as visitors It extends over several levels and is are reminded by a sign at the entrance fascinating for a number of reasons, including its to the village. The National Festival of underground stream and the fact that it is the habitat the Golden Mushroom is held here every of the Italian cave salamander. San Nicolò, set on a year, and the local restaurants vie with rise near the road to the hill of Scravaion, has each other to come up with new recipes Byzantine-style frescoes and is one of the oldest for preparing porcini and ovoli (or churches in the valley. The Fons Salutis spring, known 30 Caesar’s mushrooms). for the purity of its water, is next to the church. Borghetto Bardineto Calizzano Murialdo

A stone’s throw from the sea

Bardineto 710 metres above sea level 21 km from the A10 motorway exit (Borghetto Santo Spirito) and 31 km from the A6 motorway exit (Millesimo), 23 km from the sea (Borghetto Santo Spirito) Calizzano 650 metres above sea level 25 km from the A6 motorway exit (Millesimo) and 23 km from the A10 motorway (), 26 km from the sea (Finale Ligure) Massimino 530 metres above sea level 12 km from the A6 motorway exit (Ceva), 41 km from the sea at (Finale Ligure) a Murialdo 520 metres above sea level 11 km from the A6 motorway wn exit (Millesimo), 40 km from the sea (Finale Ligure) 31 the other riviera Bardineto

Staying in Bardineto

Visitors who want to spend the night or enjoy a meal in Bardineto can head to the Albergo Ristorante Maria Nella, which is part of the chain of “bike hotels”. This hotel/restaurant is located near the church, in what looks like an elegant mountain condominium surrounded by fir trees. Food and accommodation are also available at the Albergo Ristorante San Nicolò (hotel and restaurant) and the Albergo Ristorante (hotel and restaurant), both of which are in the centre of town. The Albergo Ristorante Piccolo Ranch (hotel and restaurant) is located at the beginning of ring road coming from Calizzano. Also in the old town centre: the Locanda Ristorante Da Teresa (hotel and restaurant) and the Ristorante Pizzeria Bar de Nei. The Agriturismo Oddone is also nearby. This guest farm is located next to the spectacular ruins of a mediaeval castle, the Bormida Valley’s sole example of a sixteen-sided polygonal structure. It offers accommodation and meals, and also sells meat, cheese and vegetables. The Epsylon Residence (hotel) at Woods Villa Frascheri is open on a seasonal basis; it has a and chestnut trees public swimming pool and is located out in the country. Mushrooms need forests, and this The Rifugio Alpino Le Collette is located along a area has trees aplenty! Oaks, dirt road through the woods of a small valley west hazels, chestnuts and beeches, of the road for Scravaion Hill. This mountain refuge conifers and birches cover 85% is ideal as a stopover for hikers travelling along the of the territory of Bardineto, and Alta Via dei Monti Liguri. they were exploited as far back as the early Middle Ages for lumber and charcoal. Here as well, the Slow Food Presidium for “chestnuts dried in the tecci (rural stone buildings) of Calizzano and Murialdo” protects the cultivation of chestnuts. Numerous forests and mountains also mean plenty of hiking trails, and Bric Pagliarina offers the best view of the plateau. 32 The Bormida di Millesimo and Tànaro Valleys

Chestnut flour: a traditional product Mountain from the Ligurian mountains biking The chestnut tree is known as erbu in many Ligurian dialects, and the fruit of this noble tree fed entire generations. The Bardineto is the perfect flour made by grinding chestnuts is creamy beige in colour starting point for biking and has a unique fragrance. through the green The first step in making chestnut flour involves drying the countryside… and down chestnuts. This is done in special drying houses, where a to the blue sea. slow fire is kept going for days to dry the fruit. When the The Alta Via dei Monti chestnuts have reached the perfect degree of moisture, Liguri is just outside they are “crushed”: this gets rid of the shell and the skin. town, and all around Before the grinding process, any bad chestnuts are removed there are kilometres and and, along with the waste from shelling the chestnuts, they kilometres of paved roads are used as pestumme, or livestock feed. The cleaned with very little traffic, as chestnuts are placed in a wooden hopper, and from here well as dirt trails – they slide between two grindstones. Under the millstone, varying in difficulty – the dried chestnuts are thus transformed into flour with a through the woods. sweet, delicate aroma.

Bardineto Where, how and when

Town Hall tel. 019 790 7013, www.inforiviera.it/blu/bardineto.cfm Agriturismo Oddone via Martino 13, loc. Castello, tel. 019 790 7115, 349 159 9301 www.mangiareinliguria.it/oddone Albergo Ristorante Maria Nella via Cave 1, tel. 019 790 7017 www.marianella.net Albergo Ristorante Monte Carmo via V. Veneto 1, tel. and fax 019 790 7069 Albergo Ristorante Piccolo Ranch loc. Cascinasso 10, tel. 019 790 7038 www.piccoloranch.biz Albergo Ristorante San Nicolò via Roascio 13, tel. 019 790 7022 Epsylon Residence villa Frascheri, via Albareta 1/3, tel. 019 790 7504, [email protected] Locanda Ristorante Da Teresa piazza Milite Ignoto 4, tel. 019 790 7223 Rifugio alpino Le Collette loc. Collette, tel. 019 79 604 Ristorante Pizzeria Bar de Nei piazza Frascheri 1, tel. 019 790 7237 33 the other riviera Calizzano

CALIZZANO “Communitas Calitiani”

The ancient Communitas Calitiani also boasts Roman origins. Today it is a farm town and holiday resort with a population of 1600, located in a broad wooded dell on the left bank of the River Bormida di Millesimo. Some of the houses here still have scàndole, small wooden shingles that were used to cover the roofs. The ruins of the mediaeval castle of the Del Carretto family overlooks the village, with its long carruggio – the narrow street that cuts Calizzano in half – and its pretty coloured houses. Noteworthy sights include the church of San Lorenzo, built on Romanesque ruins, and the fourteenth-century stone bell tower, which was once the tower of an ancient building. The sanctuary of Madonna delle Grazie near the cemetery has fascinating frescoes in dazzling colours, by fifteenth-century Piedmontese painters. The Municipality of Calizzano is quite large and has numerous hamlets: Caragna on the road to Murialdo; Frassino on the road to Melogno Hill; Mereta, a mountain village with stone, brick and plaster buildings located on the road to Bardineto; and Vetria, a peaceful rural village on the road to the Piedmont region and . The “Ciumbere” mineral springs are just outside of town. Thirteen clear The loveliest beech forest in Liguria water springs The state-owned forest of Melogno is the pride of Naturally! The municipal Calizzano. This enormous forest is one of the reasons district of Calizzano has why the Bormida Valley is considered one of the most numerous springs, and the extensively wooded areas in Italy. And the beech forest water is low in mineral of Barbottina is the treasure and triumph of the Melogno content. Some of the water Forest: there are 40-metre-tall beeches with powerful, is bottled and distributed in elegant trunks. One of them, which is nearly 190 years Italy, but there is plenty left old, is listed among the monumental trees of Liguria. to allow tourists and locals The beech forest is a fascinating sight. Tellingly, to fill up bottles to take Barbottina is considered the finest beech forest in home. Liguria – and one of the loveliest in Italy. Plans are in place to open a The best way to see the Melogno Forest is to hike along hiking trail linking all the the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri. Nevertheless, a car ride local springs, enabling along the main road to Melogno Hill is also ideal for visitors to discovery the a spectacular view of the beauty and majesty of these waters, which have different magnificent trees. The forest is breathtaking in summer, sensory qualities and when the dense foliage of the beeches conceals the therapeutic properties. babbling brooks, but it is also magnificent when it dons the tawny hues of autumn. 34 The Bormida di Millesimo and Tànaro Valleys

Nordic sports Calizzano gets snow in winter, and the Scandinavian-like landscapes that are created when the snow cloaks the forest are perfect for enjoying the hushed cross-country ski trail (this is the second trail in Liguria to obtain FISI recognition).

Calizzano: chestnuts and porcini mushrooms

The “chestnuts dried in the tecci of Calizzano and Murialdo” are protected by the Slow Food Presidium, which safeguards the chestnuts of the Bormida Valley. Also known as “Gabbiana” or “Garessina” chestnuts, they were once a staple for the local people. Aside from its chestnuts and clear spring water, Calizzano has a number of surprises in store for gourmets: an area covered with healthy woodlands naturally has a wealth of mushrooms – particularly porcini mushrooms. Fresh, packed in oil or dried, they are the pride of the local cuisine and have now become famous around the world. Many of the mushrooms gathered in the woods of Calizzano and the Upper Bormida Valley are dried or packed in oil and sent to the United States, Argentina, and Germany. But porcini mushrooms are not the only local speciality. The cuisine of Calizzano also boasts polenta with leek sauce or vernari, rare freshwater fish, as well as strozzagatti, a soft, round lemony cake, and the famous home-style bread of the Bormida Valley, baked in a wood-burning oven. To discover the delicious produce of Calizzano, try Santamaria & C., which produces conserves and jams and is located in the old town centre. Maria Perrone prepares mushrooms, jams, honey and sauces, and the Bottega dei Funghi di Barberis prepares mushrooms, dried tomatoes, oil-packed vegetables, and jams. The Azienda Agricola Maura Canova (farm) near Valle raises livestock and sells meat. Calizzano delights: chestnut ice cream

Did you think chestnuts were just autumn fare? Calizzano proffers chestnuts to aficionados all year long. The two ice cream shops in this delightful mountain town offer patrons chestnut ice cream – an original, new and healthy way to enjoy the prized age-old product of the Bormida Valley woodlands. 35 the other riviera Calizzano

Staying in Calizzano Dining in Calizzano

The crystalline air of Calizzano means you can enjoy The culinary delights of Calizzano the marvellous night-time display of millions of twinkling are served in the local hotel stars… But when you get sleepy, it’s time to head to restaurants, but they can be the Albergo Ristorante Miramonti (hotel and restaurant) enjoyed at the Ristorante il in the very centre of town along the River Bormida, or Portico delle Bazure, near the to the nearby and centrally located Albergo Ristorante church of San Lorenzo, at the Lux (hotel and restaurant) and Albergo Ristorante Osteria I Gatti alla Luna (inn), Eden (hotel and restaurant). In Valle on the road to near the playing field, or – in Garessio you’ll find “quality hotel” Albergo Ristorante the modern part of the town Villa Elia (hotel and restaurant) and the Albergo centre – at the Ristorante Ristorante Capinera (hotel and restaurant). Pizzeria Odissea, the Tavola The Agriturismo Le Giaire guest farm is located in a Fredda Bar Nuovo Sandro e farmhouse in the woods, offering accommodation and Paola and the Pizzeria La Verna. Ligurian food – certified by “Slow Food” – as well as a The homely Trattoria dei sauna and archery facilities. Local food specialities are Cacciatori is located in Mereta, also sold here. Other ideas: the Campeggio con Ristorante and the Ristorante La Baita can Laghetti, a campsite-cum-restaurant along the Frassino stoke the appetites of those torrent but near the centre of town; the B&B Semplicità, who, by car or hiking near the Carabinieri station; and the B&B along the Alta Via dei Agrituristico La Brinetta, a guest farm by Monti Liguri, have the woods and meadows of Frassino. ventured to the Maurizio Franco has rooms to let in the forts guarding rural village of Mereta. Melogno Hill. The Bormida di Millesimo and Tànaro Valleys

A recipe from Portico delle Bazure di Calizzano: castagnaccio cake

Ingredients: 500g chestnut flour, 50g pine nuts, 100g raisins, oil, fennel seeds, salt. Soak the raisins in warm water for 15 minutes. Sift the flour into a bowl and add a pinch of salt. Using a whisk, slowly stir in enough water to make a thin batter. Grease a cake tin with 2 tablespoons of oil and pour the batter into it. Drizzle a little more oil over the top and stir. Drain the raisins and sprinkle them over the cake with the pine nuts and fennel seeds. Bake at 180°C in the top part of the oven. When the top forms a thin crust with a few cracks in it, remove the cake from the oven.

Calizzano Where, how and when Town Hall tel. 019 790 691 Campeggio con Ristorante Laghetti www.inforiviera.it/blu/calizzano.cfm via Carisciano 12, tel. 019 79 175 Affittacamere Maurizio Franco La Bottega dei funghi di Barberis fraz. Mereta 29, tel. 019 53 683 (local food specialities) Agriturismo Le Giaire via G.B. Pera 40 reg.Giaire 24r, tel. 019 79 349 tel. and fax 019 79 642 338 639 8678, www.legiaire.it Maria Perrone (local food specialities) Albergo Ristorante Capinera via G.B. Pera 51, tel. 019 79 637 loc. Valle, reg. Tomaloni, tel. 019 79 510 Osteria I Gatti alla Luna Albergo Ristorante Eden piazza San Rocco, tel. 019 79 310 via Leale 7, tel. 019 79 676, [email protected] Pizzeria La Verna Albergo Ristorante Lux via 25 Aprile 2, tel. 019 79 550 via Leale 3, tel. 019 79 594 Ristorante il Portico delle Bazure Albergo Ristorante Miramonti via Santa Rosalia 10, via 5 Martiri 6, tel. 019 79 604 tel. 019 790 4020 Albergo Ristorante Villa Elia Ristorante la Baita loc. Valle 26, tel. 019 79 633 via Melogno 3, tel. 019 64 180 www.villaelia.it Ristorante Pizzeria Odissea Azienda agricola Maura Canova via Leale 1, tel. 019 79 359 (local meat) Santamaria & C. (local food specialities) borgo verso Valle, tel. 019 79 198 via Trento e Trieste 12, tel. 019 790 6065 B&B agrituristico La Brinetta Tavola fredda Bar Nuovo via Frassino 84, tel. 019 79 181 Sandro e Paola [email protected] via Leale, tel. 019 79 706 B&B Semplicità Trattoria dei Cacciatori via G.Ivaldo 9, tel. 019 790 6126 via Provinciale 12, Mereta, www.band.ligure.it tel. 019 790 7243 the other riviera Massimino

MASSIMINO

One of Liguria’s smallest municipalities With just 125 people, Massimino, located in the Upper Tànaro Valley, is one of the smallest municipal districts in Liguria. It is accessible from the Bormida di Millesimo Valley through the Giovetti Hill (altitude 912 m). Although it is located on a slope overlooking a valley of the Piedmont region, Massimino is Ligurian. At the turn of the fifteenth century, the marquises of Monferrato ceded it to the Del Carretto of Finale, and in 1713 it was purchased by Genoa, which was interested in its advanced strategic position. Today Massimino is a peaceful hill town coloured by the blossoms of the rose gardens that flourish near its houses, and it is dotted with the ancient churches that can also be seen in its woodlands. San Vincenzo and the oratory of San Vincenzo Ferreri are in the old town centre; Sant’Antonio Abate, which is extremely old, and the lovely church of San Giuseppe, with three altars, are at the foot of castle ruins; the parish church of San Giovanni Battista, in Costa, is also very ancient.

38 The Bormida di Millesimo and Tànaro Valleys

Protected chestnuts

The chestnut also reigns supreme in the forests of Massimino. The local chestnut groves, which have virtually been abandoned today, are protected by the Slow Food Presidium for “chestnuts dried in Hotels and the tecci of Calizzano and Murialdo”. Hikers will restaurants enjoy crossing the woods and meadows, taking the old “salt road”, and mountain bikers can In Massimino, visitors pedal along the MTB Cross-Country Trail. can stay at the Albergo Ristorante Belvedere, close to the wooded A recipe from Albergo Belvedere Giovetti Hill, and dine in Massimino: castellane pasta at the elegant Ristorante La Taverna Castellane are large vegetable-filled ravioli. Mince some Antica, located in the onion, rosemary and parsley, and brown in oil. Boil centre of town near the some chard or spinach (depending on the season). church and the town When cooked, add the chard or spinach to the browned hall. mixture. Stir in a fair amount of ricotta. When the mixture is cool, add whole eggs, plenty of parmesan cheese, salt and pepper. Use the filling to stuff the ravioli – which must be made strictly by hand! Cook the ravioli for a few minutes in boiling salted water. Drain and toss with butter, sage and cheese, or a blend of cheeses melted in cream to make a smooth sauce.

Massimino Where, how and when

Town Hall tel. 019 79 944 www.inforiviera.it/blu/massimino.cfm Albergo Ristorante Belvedere via Statale 2, loc. Tamborlino 12, Giovetti tel. and fax 019 79 570 Ristorante la Taverna Antica via Nazionale 5, tel. 019 79 950 39 the other riviera Murialdo

MURIALDO

Murus Altus Five hamlets with a total population of 900, and other now-abandoned villages in the woods of the Upper Bormida di Millesimo Valley. This is Murialdo, the ancient Murus Altus that Napoleon – exaggerating – said was bigger than Paris. The remains of the old city walls and the thousand-year-old castle on the hill of Costa document Murialdo’s feudal past, and of its 21 sacred buildings, churches and chapels that bear witness to its religious devotion. A visit to the parish church of San Lorenzo at Ponte is a must: built in 1445, it also encompasses a fourteenth- century door with sandstone relief work, several fifteenth-century frescoes, a terracotta rose window, a bell tower with double lancet windows, and a mediaeval baptismal font. Once upon a time… Life as it once was in Murialdo, in the homes of its farming community, is documented at the “C’era una volta” Museum in the hamlet of Riofreddo. The museum – its name means “once upon a time” – was set up in an seventeenth-century ironworks. Here people “versify on the slopes of Mount Camulera”, with poetic compositions sculpted in the walls of the square and written to celebrate the natural beauty of this small but enchanting region. At the municipal headquarters in Piano, “Each town should have there is an interesting exhibition a piece of land like this, that provides a detailed illustration of the town’s entire environmental left uncultivated” and artistic heritage, as well as its (Cesare Pavese) economic and crafts activities. The Wilderness Area of Mount Camulera or Bric Zionia covers an extensive wild, uninhabited forest. It fits in with the concept of Wilderness Areas, whose goal is to preserve places with few traces of human settlements that still have all the features of a wild, pristine landscape. And this is undoubtedly one of the most intriguing unspoilt areas in Italy. 40 The Bormida di Millesimo and Tànaro Valleys

Chestnuts dried in tecci and other delicacies Murialdo is a land of fields and forests: potatoes, mushrooms, peaches and chestnuts grow here, and the woods provide raw materials for lumber and handmade paper. Though chestnuts are no longer a staple for the mountain people, steps have been taken to maintain the remaining chestnut groves. The Slow Food Presidium for “chestnuts dried in the tecci of Calizzano and Murialdo” protects local chestnuts, mainly the Gabbina (or Gabbiana) variety, which are eaten dried or are used in biscuits, conserves, sweet spreads and ice cream. The tecci in which the fruit is dried were – and are – buildings used seasonally by woodsmen to store their tools or seek shelter for the night. The term is Latin in origin and comes from the word tego, meaning to cover or protect. The Where can drying houses, or tecci, are small stone buildings we taste… with just one room and a shingled roof. Inside, about 2 or 3 metres from the floor, there is a ... these delicacies? At the ceiling made of a wooden grate, called a graia, Albergo Osteria del Borgo di which holds the chestnuts. On the floor of the Riofreddo (inn and restaurant), teccio, a low fire is kept burning constantly, up at the summit and stoked with chestnut branches or hulls. Chestnuts surrounded by chestnut trees, are placed on the grate, where they are dried or at the Miky Bar Ristorante by the heat and smoke rising from the fire. The Ponte, in the village of Ponte, smoking process takes about two months. The which organises tastings of chestnuts are turned every so often in order to typical local specialities. These invert the top and bottom layers and ensure products can be purchased at uniform smoking. After this operation, called the nearby Minimarket di Rita the girata, the chestnuts are exposed to the Alba Giacosa, which sells smoke again for 5 to 10 days, and then they are formaggette cheese, junket, crushed to remove the shell. blueberries, chestnuts and At Christmas the best, biggest chestnuts are honey. Silvana Rubino, in used to make viette. Dried chestnuts are boiled Alberghetti, makes honey, and for 5 hours in a pot with a weight set on it to Eugenio Icardo, in the village keep them submerged. Prepared this way, they of Baduoli, grows splendid rows taste like candied fruit. Naturally, much of the of organic blueberries in the dried fruit is ground and the chestnut flour is woods (worth seeing!). used to prepare delicious specialities. If you’re looking for an unusual place to stay, try the Castello Bonetti, atop a wooded hill overlooking the river: it looks like the castle of the Unnamed from Manzoni’s masterpiece The Betrothed. 41 the other riviera Murialdo

Other delicacies Murialdo from Murialdo Where, how and when Town Hall tel. 019 53 543 The Upper Bormida Valley, and above www.inforiviera.it/blu/murialdo.cfm all the Riofreddo hamlet of Murialdo, is famous for fazzino or lisone, a soft Affittacamere Castello Bonetti potato focaccia garnished with (rooming house) Case Bonetti, tel. 019 53 893, 339 711 3070 onions, garlic, oil, eggs, leeks… and whatever takes your fancy. Albergo Osteria del Borgo The aromatic herbs from the woods fraz. Riofreddo, tel. 019 53 505 around Murialdo are used to prepare Eugenio Icardo (blueberries) a liqueur called Spingitutto, a digestif borgata Tabadoli, tel. 019 53 993 that closely resembles Genepy but Miky Bar Ristorante Ponte is not as strong (it has an alcohol Borgata Ponte, tel. 019 53 610 content of 30%). 333 216 4504 Minimaket di Rita Alba Giacosa local food specialities via Ponte 9, tel. 019 53 540 “C’era una volta” Museum in Riofreddo tel. 019 53 873, 019 958 319 [email protected] Silvana Rubino (honey) borgata Torricella, tel. 019 53 658

42 the other riviera The valleys between Borgio Verezzi i and Borghetto Santo Spirito

Ormea Monte Sotta 1708 1204 Noceto Garessio Ceva

Monte Spinarda A6 1357

Massimino Riofreddo Murialdo Bric Tencione Colle Giovetti 1191 Monte Camulera 912 1224 Monte Alpe 47 Calizzano Ponte 1056 o 1386 sim ille di M Bormida L. Osiglia 582 Rocca Barbena Colle Melogno 1142 490 Bec Agnellino 1028 Bardineto 52 1335 Bormida 814 44 Bric Aguzzo llare Monte Carmo 1079 di Pà Monte Guardiola 1389 Bormida 735 T. Neva 490 Castelvecchio Pian delle Bosse di Roccabarbena 880 Isallo Poggio Grande Giogo di Toirano 813 Monte Ravinet Canova Vercesio 1061 Calvi ERLI Carpe San Lorenzo

Balestrino Magliolo San Michele Giustenice Madonna della Guardia Monte Acuto 728 T. Varatello Bardino Bardino Grotte Pianazzo di Toirano Nuovo Vecchio

Toirano Boissano Verzi T. Scarincio Peagna Ranzi Tovo Olle San Giacomo

T. Pora Gorra A10

IMPERIA A10 T. Nimbalto T. Maremola VENTIMIGLIA

S.S.1

Ceriale Borghetto Verezzi Perti Santo Spirito Loano Pietra Ligure

Borgio S.S.1 San Bernardo Finale Ligure NOLI Capo Caprazoppa GENOVA the other riviera

How to consult this guide

This guide describes each valley Locality of the territory along routes that go “municipality by municipality”. Each area includes Wine, Oil, Distillates different topics highlighted by symbols and a colour code: Nature and Sport

Art and History Gastronomy

Information and Useful Numbers Accommodation

The territory map uses these symbols:

HarbourMonumentWine Olives and oil Restaurant Hotel Bed&Breakfast Typical products and guest farm

Organic Honey Riding Sport BeachWalks Plants farming and flowers

Editorial production: M&R Comunicazione - Genova Texts: Gian Antonio Dall’Aglio Editing: Fabrizio Calzia English translation: Polylingua Enterprises Graphic design and make-up: Alessia Massari Map and illustrations: Marco Ferraris Photography: Archivio APT Riviera delle Palme, Archivio M&R, Fabrizio Calzia, Gian Antonio Dall’Aglio, Alessia Massari, Federico Panzano. Thanks to the Municipality of Magliolo for permission to publish the photograph. Printing: Algraphy – Genova © 2004, Azienda di Promozione Turistica Riviera delle Palme Head office (17021) - Viale Gibb, 26 tel. 0182 647 11 - fax 0182 644 690 www.inforiviera.it e-mail: [email protected]

Information and Tourist Reception Offices - I.A.T.

Alassio & Le Baie del Sole Il Finalese

Alassio (17021) Bardineto (17057) seasonal Via Mazzini, 68 Piazza della Chiesa, 6 tel. 0182 647 027 - fax 0182 647 874 tel. 019 790 72 28 - fax 019 790 72 93 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] Albenga (17031) (17042) seasonal Piazza Corridoni, 11 Via Aurelia - tel. e fax 019 859 777 tel. 0182 558 444 - fax 0182 558 740 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] Calizzano (17057) seasonal (17051) Piazza San Rocco - tel. e fax 019 791 93 Via Aurelia, 122/a - Villa Laura e-mail: [email protected] tel. 0182 681 004 - fax 0182 681 807 Finale Ligure (17024) e-mail: [email protected] • Finalmarina - Via San Pietro, 14 (17023) tel. 019 681 019 - fax 019 681 804 Via Aurelia, 224/a e-mail: [email protected] tel. 0182 993 007 - fax 0182 993 804 • Finalborgo seasonal e-mail: [email protected] Piazza Porta Testa (17033) seasonal tel. 019 680 954 - fax 019 681 57 89 Via Roma, 1 e-mail: [email protected] tel. e fax 0182 582 114 Millesimo (17017) e-mail: [email protected] Piazza Italia, 27 (17053) tel. 019 560 00 78 - fax 019 560 09 70 Via Roma, 2 e-mail: [email protected] tel. 0182 690 059 - fax 0182 691 798 Noli (17026) e-mail: [email protected] Corso Italia, 8 - tel. 019 749 90 03 - fax 019 749 93 00 (17037) e-mail: [email protected] Piazza IV Novembre, 11 (17028) tel. e fax 0182 547 423 Piazza Matteotti, 6 e-mail: [email protected] tel. 019 741 50 08 - fax 019 741 58 11 Villanova d’Albenga (17038) e-mail: [email protected] seasonal (17029) seasonal Via Garibaldi, 5 Via Aurelia, 79 - tel. 019 698 013 - fax 019 698 88 42 tel. e fax 0182 582 498 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected]

Il Savonese & Il Varazzino Il Loanese & Il Pietrese (17012) Borghetto Santo Spirito (17052) (17013) Piazza Libertà, 1 Passeggiata E. Montale, 21 tel. e fax 0182 950 784 tel. 019 400 20 08 - fax 019 400 30 84 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] Borgio Verezzi (17022) (17015) seasonal Via Boagno - Palazzo Comunale Via Matteotti, 158 tel. 019 990 021 - fax 019 999 97 98 tel. e fax 019 610 412 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] (17040) seasonal Loano (17025) Piazza Indipendenza, 1 Corso Europa, 19 tel. 019 705 001 - fax 019 705 269 tel. 019 676 007 e-mail: [email protected] fax 019 676 818 (17046) seasonal e-mail: [email protected] Via G.B. Badano, 45 Pietra Ligure (17027) tel. 019 724 020 - fax 019 723 832 Piazza San Nicolò, 36 e-mail: [email protected] tel. 019 629 003 Savona (17100) fax 019 629 790 Corso Italia, 157 r e-mail: [email protected] tel. 019 840 23 21 - fax 019 840 36 72 Toirano (17055) e-mail: [email protected] Piazzale Grotte (17019) tel. 0182 989 938 Via Matteotti, 56 - Palazzo Beato Jacopo fax 0182 984 63 tel. 019 935 043 - fax 019 935 916 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] free copy free