SOUTHEAST WHERE MOUNTAINS AND SEA FORM DRAMATIC LANDSCAPES PART 3 Admiralty, Baranof and Chichigof Islands and Frederick Sound

Admiralty Island, Pybus Bay

Leconte Bay and the mountains north of the Stikine river South of Glacier Bay and the St Elias Mountain Range of northern SE Alaska lies Admiralty, Baranof, and Chichagof Islands in the northern part of the Alexander Archipelago. The islands are known for their wilderness and wildlife, including a dense brown bear population. To the east lies the Alaska Coastal Range which extends from the Juneau Icefield north into Lynn canal, and south along Stephens passage with inlets that include Taku, and the Fjords Terror Wilderness area, Port Houghton at the foot of Devils Thumb at 9,077 ft (2,767 m). Its name in the Tlingit language means "the mountain that never flooded" and is said to have been a refuge for people during Aangalakhu ("the Great Flood"). It is one of the peaks that marks the border between Canada and the United States. Much of the area is still wilderness along Admiralty and parts of Chichigof Islands, and the head of Taku and Tracy Fjords Wild Area. Most of the islands' area is federally protected wilderness in Tongass National Forest, and Admiralty Island especially in known for its dense brown bear population. The city of Sitka has its urban center on the west coast of Baranof Island. Outside of Sitka, there is only minimal industry and human presence on the islands, despite the fact that Admiralty (7th), Baranof (10th) and Chichagof (5th) are among the largest islands in the United States. I have had the privilege to work with Lindblad National Geographic Explorer natural history trips in 1982-1984, where I met the author of Dr. Theodore J. Walker of the book Red , brown bear by. He spent a year at Lake Eva, and wrote about his experience with the seasons and interactions with brown bear. I also had explored many years subsequently exploring by boat, and encountered its landscapes, seas and wildlife intimately in spring, summer and late fall. This area is true wilderness, and I have only captured a fraction of its scenic grandeur. Fond memories include witnessing the herring spawn in May along Port Houghton, Hobart Bay and Seymour Canal on Admiralty Island in Stephan’s passage. Millions of herring come to spawn along the beaches, drawing large concentrations of bald eagle, Stellers sea lion, and humpback whales to feed on their large schools. There are numerous waterfalls, rivers and lakes with coastal forests of Sitka Spruce and Hemlock filled with birdsong in the spring, and flowers in the enchanting muskegs and beach meadows. The intlets and channels at certain tide changes are full of bait fish that draw thousands of feeding kittiwakes, gulls, murres and puffins, with their screaming calls that can be heard from long distances away. Here the sea is abundant with life with salmon and halibut, and setting shrimp and crab pots. Of all the places I have explored in the world, SE Alaska is my home, my favorite place that still remains wild.

Seymour canal Admiralty Island, Stikine icefields in LeConte Bay, Coastal Range of SE Alaska ADMIRALTY, BARANOF AND CHICHIGOF ISLAND, THE ABC GROUP OF SE ALASKA

Mt Edgecomb from straits outside Sitka, Baranof Island

Admiralty Island and Gambier Bay

Top: Admiralty island sunrise in Pybus Bay, Seymour Canal, Brown Bear, Sockey salmon, Brown bear NE Admiralty. Admiralty Island has roughly 10% of Alaska’s population of brown beard, almost one bear per square mile, the highest density of brown bears in North America. The island is home to a population of roughly 650 residents, of which brown bear outnumber humans by a near three to one ratio.

Brown bear concentrated on run, Admiralty Island USFS photo

Sitka Spruce Forest with hemolock, Sitka Blacktailed deer, Bald eagles concentrating above a beach where herring were congregated in the millions and about to spawn along the beaches.

Admiralty Island looking east across Seymour Canal and Stephans Passage.

Humpback whales Stephens passage, bottom: lobtailing Above,Orca group that specialize in marine mammals, primarily sea lions, sea lion Lynn Canal

Sea Lion rookery Stephans passage near brothers island

Sea Otters, Sitakaday narrows, north of Chichigof Island Part of the family together in Elfin Cove, northern Chichigof Island: Philip, clara and ethan

Rebekah my oldest daughter at the helm of our rented Nordic Tug

Tide rips with thousands of kittiwakes, gulls, and alcids, marbled murrelet, Horned puffin LYNN CANAL, ENDICOTT AND TRACY ARM, FJORD TERROR WILDERNESS

Above: Tracy Arm

Waterfalls midway up the arm, Sawyer Glacier at the end of Tracy Arm Tufted puffins, Pigeon guillomants

Fjords Terror Wilderness off Tracy Arm

Endicott Arm Above and Below Dawes Glacier at the end of Endicott Arm

Wolves on the tide flats, Windham Bay above and below south of Tracy Arm WINDHAM COVE, HOBART BAY, THOMAS BAY

Above and below:Windham Bay early May, one of many locations where herring spawning occurs

Intertidal life is rich in diversity and stratified according to exposure length above mean tide level

Hobart Bay, Intertidal life rich in green and brown algae and invertebrates

Farragut Bay Stephans Passage near another Herring spawning location in May

Herring spawning group escaping sea lions feeding on them from below, Hobart Bay.

Bald Eagles feeding on herring spawn at edge of intertidal beach, Hobart Bay. Pacific Herring spawn on the lunar moon cycle in May, gathering by the millions on specific beaches throughout SE Alaska including areas east of Sitka, Lynn Canal, Hobart Bay, Seymour Canal.

Eagle feeding frenzy with Steller Sea Lions below driving herring to the surface, Hobart Bay

Stephans Passage sunset from Hobart Bay Stephens Passage sunset

Thomas Bay SE Alaska