/ beyond /backstory

Tharu tribe native to this region, local women at the same time. Her escorts me to my villa. He spots my NGO returns tribal women—and birding binoculars and obligingly some men—to their native crafts. points out a cluster of scaly- “All these women used to be in breasted munia along the way. construction,” she says, pointing to My villa, one of 16, is huge, twice the dozen or so workers weaving the size of my bedroom back home. the braided grass mats that will end The thatched roof and mud walls up on the floor of villas like doff their architectural hat at the mine. “Their handwork is Tharu tribal homes. The insides, exceptional. Thankfully, we can The Great Game now employ them full-time.” however, are thoroughly A stylish new safari lodge on the edge of Chitwan National Park is raising the hospitality bar contemporary, with silk upholstery, and bringing eco-tourism back to Nepal. By Shoba Narayan dark wood furniture, remote- The days have a rhythm. Oatmeal operated lights and Wi-Fi, accented porridge at dawn, spiked with by forgettable curios. Baileys Irish Cream or Grand In the midst of all this plush Marnier for an indulgent touch, modernity, a whimsical brush followed by a four-hour game drive painting of a pastoral scene across with a picnic breakfast in the an entire wall by local artist Durga forest. We escape the afternoon sun Mahato stands out. More than a and rinse off in our private mere decoration, it represents part bathrooms, each of which features a of the lodge’s effort to engage the claw-footed bathtub, an enclosed surrounding community. indoor rain shower and an outdoor Complementing it are pastel dhunge dhara, a traditional Nepali furnishings supplied by a local stone-shower that spouts water NGO, Lahar Srijana. The next day, I with the force of a waterfall. The visit it and meet its founder, outdoor shower has an adjoining Pratima Thapa, a former foreign- veranda with a coir bed to sun, “Whatever I am today, I owe totally the local wildlife populations in the inside the jungle run for 40 years by service wife who wanted to promote sleep or simply tan. If all else fails, to my homeland,” says Binod first half of the 20th century. When British naturalist Jim Edwards. In the region’s indigenous crafts while there is the plunge pool facing the Chaudhary, with a humility I hadn’t the park was established in 1973, just 2012, the Nepali forest department offering fairly paid employment to Rapti River and the forest. >> expected from Nepal’s first and only 100 one-horned rhinos roamed this refused to extend the lease for all billionaire. Dressed casually in a riverine forest. It took an army—a lodges inside the national T-shirt and slacks, he stands out full 1,100-man battalion of Nepal’s park. “Tiger Tops created a new from the pack of glitzy Delhi finest soldiers, to be specific—to benchmark for hospitality in this socialites and Nepali royalty solve the problem. Thanks to region,” says Chaudhary. “When it gathered to celebrate his 61st exceptional teamwork with rangers closed down, obviously there was a birthday. With a gracious smile, he and shoot-on-sight orders for vacuum in Chitwan.” By then the begins describing our surroundings poachers, some 600 rhinos, as well Chaudhary Group had partnered on the edge of the country’s oldest as clouded leopards, Bengal tigers, with Taj Safaris in all their Indian national park and how he’s using the striped hyenas, sambar deer and lodges. Nepal was a “natural entry,” new Meghauli Serai lodge to repay sloth bears, now roam this thriving and “probably the best in the his debt. ecosystem. In the wake of last year’s portfolio,” says Chaudhary. “It has Not only is his two-year-long devastating earthquake, Nepalese put Nepal’s wildlife back in the passion project the only safari lodge locals such as Chaudhary hope to global map.” of this caliber that the area has ever restore the country’s struggling Wildlife may be the primary seen, but it also is uniquely devoted tourism industry by promoting a draw here, but the warm, welcoming to sustainability and community more eco-friendly version of the vibe and stylishly rustic grounds are development. Managed by Taj game drives that once drew throngs equally appealing. After a flight Safaris, the lodge borders Chitwan to Chitwan. from Kathmandu to Bharatpur, National Park, a unesco World Rajasthan, and a rather bumpy Heritage Site and one of the Over drinks at the wood-paneled drive, I’m greeted by khaki-clad country’s rare conservation success bar, Chaudhary and his two sons staff, who wave with both hands and stories. Prior to obtaining protected explain the group’s involvement with press cold towels and mint juice on status, the region was a favorite of Chitwan. It began with Tiger Tops, a me. Straight away, Pradip Mahato, a One-horned rhinos are a rare conservation succcess story. opposite: A great way to

big game hunters, who decimated lodge founded in 1964 with camps naturalist and a member of the hotels taj of courtesy escape the heat: Meghauli Serai’s infinity pool.

48 october 2016 / travelandleisureasia.com / beyond /backstory

clockwise from top left: An elephant-back safari is the best way to spot wildlife in this region of Nepal; spacious rooms with modern comforts; exploring Chitwan National Park on foot; a Tharu-style thali dinner at Meghauli Serai.

Lodge manager Ritesh Bhatt hires colleague, Arpita Dutta, who clamber atop her back. She showers most of his service staff from describes the jungle as her “office,” us with her snaky trunk and I burst neighboring villages. “They may be shows me plovers, pittas and other out laughing. Finally, I rest my face inexperienced, but they aren’t birds on a river walk. In two days, I on Anjali’s body, staring into her jaded. Their smiles reach their eyes, have seen 100 species of birds and eyes. We both sigh in unison. which is invaluable in hospitality,” about as many rhinos, as well as The night before I leave, we dine he says. He introduces me to one wild dogs, boars and a sloth bear. on Tharu dishes such as nettle soup young waitress, who attends college The next day, Dutta accompanies and a dal made with 78 types of from 5 a.m. to 10 a.m., works in the me to what turns out to be the legumes. Young local girls and boys lodge all day, and goes home to highlight of the trip: an elephant dressed in minimalist white homework. If her grueling schedule bathing session with Anjali Kali, the costumes sing and dance around a takes a toll on her, you’d never know. lodge’s resident pachyderm- fire. The drumbeat is hypnotic and Naturalists are also from the area matriarch. “Wear a swimsuit—you the dancers graceful. They wave and offer a wealth of knowledge will be soaked,” she warns. I find out fans and beckon guests to fall in line about birds, bees, spiders and what she means when the mahout and join. At the last minute, I mammals. In search of the local guides the elephant into the river rise. Why not? I think. So what if I fauna, I embark on an elephant with me on top. The elephant kneels make a fool of myself. It’s only one safari and jungle walks with and I plunge into the water. To my night. tajhotels.com; doubles from

Mahato. His enthusiastic female delight, she lies in the shallows and I US$400, all-inclusive. hotels taj of courtesy

50 october 2016 / travelandleisureasia.com